Malt & Barley Chronicles

Cream Stout -- St. Peter's Brewery (St. Peter's Hall, Suffolk, England)

2009-10-14T02:01:48Z

Another sampling from the elusive St. Peter's Brewery. The Cream Stout comes in a round (not elliptical) greenish glass bottle that doesn't stand out like the English Ale but still commands attention in the grocery or liquor store. Fans of oatmeal stouts should pay close attention, even though this is a thick cream stout.

Characteristics: Deep black-brown, nearly opaque color; medium carbonation; minimal head; heavy body; smooth opening has smoky notes that go malty sweet in middle and finishes with that dry Fuggles hop tang and some coffee overtones.

Minor Gripes: This is the rare specialty beer that is better on the colder end of the spectrum between "fridge" and "room temp." Since this really is a beet to savor, and I don't have a wine bucket, the fragility is tricky.

Bottom Line: I'm torn about St. Peter's Cream Stout. The initial "molten ice cream" experience quickly dissipates into an unbalanced mix. If you keep it cool, it's a richly rewarding stout.

Rating: 6 / 10 at the right temp, 4.5 / 10 when it gets too warm.

Pumpkinhead Ale -- Shipyard Brewing Co. (Portland, ME)

2009-10-05T03:42:11Z

I was fortunate enough to visit Shipyard a couple summers back -- good people with the goal of making good beers and an obsession with Fuggles hops. Their flagship brew is a good one, but the flavored offerings don't always make the grade.

Characteristics: Warm-gold color; light body with light-to-medium carbonation; a consistent straw-grass flavor dominates throughout, with some yeast and a slight squashy taste at the finish.

Not-so-minor Gripes: Pumpkinhead is extremely thin and carries zero flavor when cold -- it starts out somewhere around a light American lager. It opens up a little over time, but there's ultimately not much to find. The progression or evolution in the flavor is very slight over the course of a swallow or a full glass.

Bottom Line: I prefer my pumpkin beers to be a little heftier, with cinnamon and nutmeg hints (though not as thick as a winter ale). Pumpkinhead is too thin, like a Pale Ale that trades out some hops and adds some raw pumpkin to the mash tun. It's better than the Shipyard Blueberry (which was too sweet for me) but not the pumpkin brew I'd recommend.

Rating: 4 / 10

Black Bavarian Lager -- Sprecher Brewery (Glendale, WI)

2009-09-17T23:04:37Z

Lakefront seems to get the majority of the press (and love) when it comes to Milwaukee-area craft beers. Sprecher is rightfully known for its sodas, especially its root beer and the most biting (and tasty) ginger ale I've ever had. But Sprecher also makes some fine, complex beers, with its Black Bavarian at the head of the class.

Characteristics: Dark black-brown color that is completely opaque; heavy body with low to medium carbonation; opens smooth with a slight bubbly bite before moving into dense roasted chocolate malts with an espresso finish. There's also a hit-and-miss sugar element through the middle.

Minor Gripes: Black Bavarian doesn't have enough balance once it warms up a little -- I'm guessing it was engineered to be rich and flavorful when consumed ice-cold. And the 6% ABV sneaks up a little.

Bottom Line: Although Black Bavarian is a lager, it's closest in spirit and flavor to a deep porter as opposed to a schwarzbier. It's not a session beer, but it's a good change of pace and one that's not often available where I live these days.

Rating: 6 / 10

Cleaning The Draught Lines #4 -- Eco-Friendly Edition

2009-09-16T02:45:13Z

Links (and some context) saved up over many months... this time, mostly from the treehugg(er)ing side of the tracks.

Sierra Nevada takes the green initiative to create ethanol from brewing waste materials and install electric car chargers at employee parking lots.

Discovery Network's "Planet Green" offers tips on how to drink green, though in an annoying multi-page format.

Even the Dear Leader has entered the beer exporting game -- though I won't be seeking out Taedonggang any time soon.

Killing two birds with one stone -- go green and protect yourself (and others) by walking to the pub.

And when you get to the pub, your "pint" glass should be a proper pint, not some thick-bottomed rip-off.

Appalachia moves on from backwoods distilling to microbrewing -- a handy guide for my end-of-year road trip!

No green conversation is complete without some preaching to the choir about localism.

And finally, for this back-to-school season, a two-part round-up of "college town breweries" with high-quality green(ish) brews, including many past favorites here at the Chronicles.

New Grist Beer -- Lakefront Brewery (Milwaukee, WI)

2009-09-14T11:45:32Z

New Grist is another in the unfortunately small collection of gluten-free brews with something resembling decent distribution. And, befitting the substantial brewing heritage of its hometown (and its brewer, who is responsible for more traditional winners like Riverwest Stein and Wheat Monkey), New Grist tastes like a beer first and a GF beer second.

Characteristics: Pale yellow color, medium carbonation and head, starts with a little bite of carbonation and hops before settling in to a mild yeasty middle and then the tell-tale sorghum tanginess in the finish.

Minor Gripes: Best when served cold, just like the Leinie's or Stella it's replacing -- that's when the sorghum is least noticeable. Its distribution also seems to be spotty outside the standard Lakefront channels. Two weeks after we found it at a Whole Foods in NYC, it went out of stock with its slot in the case given away.

Bottom Line: New Grist is the GF beer for those who (A) miss drinking lagers, and (B) might enjoy multiple beverages in an evening. (I can't bring myself to use the classic Schaefer phrasing today.) New Grist is also the first of the GF brews I've sampled that I would drink even if I weren't looking to reduce my gluten exposure. The Green's belgian-style offerings are good, but New Grist does a better job balancing out the endemic sorghum tanginess.

Rating: 5.75 / 10

Strawberry Harvest Lager -- Abita Brewing (Abita Springs, LA)

2009-08-31T00:53:29Z

I was equally scared and intrigued when I saw this sixpack in the cooler. I'm no fan of Abita's "Purple Haze" but their fine Turbodog and Restoration Ale gave me hope that the strawberries would be kept in check.

Characteristics: Clear yellow gold color; high carbonation; light-to-medium body; opens and finishes with some strawberry and yeast flavors, with a mellow slightly malty middle and few discernible hops. The strawberry is "real," not sugar-coated, and adds a definite tang.

Minor Gripes: There's less going on here than the flavors would suggest. The tangy finish turns dry over time, leaving one to wonder whether a beverage was actually consumed.

Bottom Line: The strawberry is a novel (and novelty) addition to what would otherwise be a decent lager falling between pilsner and amber. That novelty softens the pilsner's crisp bite without adding the malty depth of the amber -- truly betwixt and between. I wouldn't turn one down if offered, but I wouldn't exactly seek it out, either.

Rating: 5 / 10

Righteous Rye -- Sixpoint Craft Ales (Brooklyn, NY)

2009-08-27T23:37:46Z

A few weeks back, I was doing a little people-watching at the Oyster Bar on a Friday early evening. I can't think of many places in NYC that got a bigger boost from the series "Mad Men." And along with a gorgeous plate of fried oysters, I had the chance to sample a couple pints of this lovely brew that adds some rye to the barley malt.

Characteristics: Cloudy amber color; medium body; low carbonation; starts with a sharp hoppy note, mellows into a biscuity, yeasty middle and finishes slightly sweet.

Minor Gripes: Balance is a problem. The hops keeps the sweetness in check only sometimes, but the biscuity elements can be overpowered by either of the two.

Bottom Line: With bivalves, Righteous Rye is magical. The hoppy opening cuts through the brine, while the malty rye draws out the depth of the bellies. In a stand-alone setting, the lack of balance and consistency is a bit of a liability. A complex beer worth checking out for amber ale fans.

Rating: 5.5 / 10

Green's Discovery Amber Ale -- DeProef Brouwerij (Lochristi, Gent, Belgium)

2009-08-24T01:45:09Z

Second of the Green's family of gluten-free Belgian ales, as I review from light to dark. The Discovery Amber Ale successfully evokes Irish and English ambers and pale ales through its mix of unconventional grains.

Characteristics: Reddish brown and cloudy color (from secondary fermentation in bottle); high carbonation; medium body; tangy and tart flavors (almost granny smith apple) throughout dominate over some classic amber malt notes, leading to a hoppy finish.

Minor Gripes: The tangy nature of the sorghum and millet can be distracting at times, particularly for those who don't routinely drink GF beer. The 6% ABV does show up in the tartness and is not always welcome.

Bottom Line: Discovery Amber is at the strong end of the amber family in all respects. The flavors run fairly close to its stablemate, the Dubbel Dark Endeavor. But for those who can no longer enjoy ambers, lighter browns, or Belgian-style ales, this member of the Green's family is a welcome find.

Rating: 5.25 / 10

Wacko Summer Seasonal -- Magic Hat Brewing Company (South Burlington, VT)

2009-08-21T02:51:56Z

This beer first caught my attention as a new offering from Magic Hat. It's kept my attention thanks to some quirky elements -- sugar beet extract! -- and to the quality refreshment it provides. And compared with other Magic Hat summer-ish efforts, Wacko is a clear winner.

Characteristics: Deep pink color (like golden cranberries); high carbonation; minimal head; light body; opens slightly sharp and hoppy, with a sugary (but not syrupy) malt middle and slightly dry fruity finish.

Minor Gripes: This is perhaps too thin a beer, with the carbonation hanging on all the way to the very bottom of the glass like a seltzer.

Bottom Line: Wacko is a well-balanced summer beer, just right for humid, nasty evenings on a stoop or back porch hoping for a breeze. The sugar beet element is amusing, while the flavor flows smoothly from crisp to clean. Color me impressed (yes, pun somewhat intended).

Rating: 6.25 / 10

Knot Stock -- Furthermore Brewing (Spring Green / Black River Falls, WI)

2009-08-20T01:21:41Z

Finally, an American Pale Ale that doesn't slaughter my taste buds by being overhopped. Though maybe the black pepper is also providing the necessary balance... however it works, color me impressed.

Characteristics: warm, cloudy amber color; medium carbonation, medium body; opens with a hoppy edge (assisted by carbonation), mellows in the middle with a little malt (wandering between biscuit and caramel), and winds up in a long and strong black pepper finish.

Minor Gripes: As with many complex beers, there's a delicate spot where all the flavors open up... and it passes quickly.

Bottom Line: My preference for malt over hops is well-documented on these pages. But Knot Stock is the rare American Pale Ale that I would enjoy as a regular part of the rotation.

Rating: 6.25 / 10