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	<title>Food &amp; Think</title>
	
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		<title>When Heineken Bottles Were Square</title>
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		<comments>http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/05/when-heineken-bottles-were-square/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 May 2013 13:42:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>K. Annabelle Smith</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Around the World]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Beer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food Ethics]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sustainability]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Alfred Heineken]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[beer history]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Heineken International]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[k. annabelle smith]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[WOBO]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/?p=14828</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[In 1963, Alfred Heineken created a beer bottle that could also function as a brick to build houses in impoverished countries. ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/05/wobobottle-tmb1.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-14920" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/05/wobobottle-tmb1.jpg" alt="" width="0" height="0" /></a></p>
<div id="attachment_14943" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 331px"><a href="http://archinect.com/news/article/65009/the-heineken-wobo-world-bottle"><img class="size-full wp-image-14943" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/05/aiu_wobo2-600.jpg" alt="" width="331" height="600" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Image via Archinect.</p></div>
<p>There are <a href="http://www.beachpackagingdesign.com/wp/2009/02/glass-bottle-houses.html">plenty of examples</a> of structures built from recycled materials—even<a href="http://www.treehugger.com/sustainable-product-design/buddhist-temple-built-from-beer-bottles.html" target="_blank"> Buddhist temples</a> have been made from them. In Sima Valley, California, an entire village known as <a href="http://www.vanace.com/BV/index.htm" target="_blank">Grandma Prisbey’s Bottle Village</a> was constructed from reused glass. But this is no new concept—back in 1960, executives at the Heineken brewery drew up a plan for a &#8220;brick that holds beer,&#8221; a rectangular beer bottle that could also be used to build homes.</p>
<p>Gerard Adriaan Heineken acquired <a href="http://www.heinekeninternational.com/content/live//files/downloads/History_of_Heineken.pdf" target="_blank">the &#8220;Haystack&#8221; brewery in 1864 in Amsterdam, marking the formal beginning of the eponymous brand that is now </a>one of the most successful international breweries. Since the <a href="http://www.heinekeninternational.com/content/live//files/downloads/History_of_Heineken.pdf" target="_blank">first beer consignment was delivered to the United States upon the repeal of Prohibition</a> in 1933, it has been a top seller in the United States. The distinctive, bright green of a Heineken beer bottle can be found in more than 70 countries today. The founder&#8217;s grandson, <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2002/01/05/business/alfred-heineken-78-dies-made-dutch-brewer-a-giant.html" target="_blank">Alfred Heineken, began his career with the company in 1942 and was later elected Chairman of the Executive Board at Heineken International</a>. Alfred, better known as &#8220;Freddy,&#8221;oversaw the design of the classic <a href="http://www.heinekencollection.com/?page_id=1059" target="_blank">red-starred</a> label <a href="http://www.heinekeninternational.com/content/live//files/downloads/History_of_Heineken.pdf" target="_blank">released in 1964.</a> He had a good eye for marketing and design.&#8221;Had I not been a beer brewer I would have become an advertising man,&#8221; <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2002/01/05/business/alfred-heineken-78-dies-made-dutch-brewer-a-giant.html" target="_blank">he once said</a>. When Freddy&#8217;s beer took off in the international market, he made it a point to visit the plants the company had opened as a part of its globalization strategy.</p>
<div id="attachment_14922" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 608px"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/seaotter22/5193203331/sizes/l/in/photostream/"><img class=" wp-image-14922" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/05/wobobottle-600.jpg" alt="" width="608" height="304" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">A display of WOBO &#8220;bricks&#8221; from the Heineken Experience, in Amsterdam. Image courtesy of Flickr user seaotter22.</p></div>
<p>In 1960, Freddy took a trip to the island of <a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Curacao&amp;aq=f&amp;um=1&amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=N&amp;tab=wl" target="_blank">Curacao</a> in the Caribbean Sea and discovered that he could barely walk 15 feet on the beach without stepping on a littered Heineken bottle. He was alarmed by two things: First, the incredible amount of waste that his product was creating due to the region&#8217;s lack of infrastructure to collect the bottles for reuse. (Back then, <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=SomdMIMhMeYC&amp;pg=PA29&amp;dq=heineken+square+bottles&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=FlyBUafQO6WUiQL7r4DICg&amp;ved=0CDgQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&amp;q=heineken%20square%20bottles&amp;f=false" target="_blank">bottles were commonly r</a><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=SomdMIMhMeYC&amp;pg=PA29&amp;dq=heineken+square+bottles&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=FlyBUafQO6WUiQL7r4DICg&amp;ved=0CDgQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&amp;q=heineken%20square%20bottles&amp;f=false" target="_blank">eturned for refilling</a>, lasting about 30 trips back and forth to the breweries). Second, the dearth of proper building materials available to those living in the impoverished communities he visited. So he thought up an idea that might solve both of these problems: A <a href="http://nowiknow.com/beer-bricks/" target="_blank">brick that holds beer</a>.</p>
<p>The rectangular, Heineken World Bottle or WOBO, designed with the help of architect <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N._John_Habraken" target="_blank">John Habraken</a>, would serve as a drinking vessel as well as a brick once the contents were consumed. The long side of the bottle would have interlocking grooved surfaces so that the glass bricks, once laid on their side, could be stacked easily with mortar or cement. A 10-foot-by-10-foot shack would take approximately 1,000 bottles (and a lot of beer consumption) to build. Yu Ren Guang explains in <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=SomdMIMhMeYC&amp;pg=PA29&amp;dq=heineken+square+bottles&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=FlyBUafQO6WUiQL7r4DICg&amp;ved=0CDgQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&amp;q=heineken%20square%20bottles&amp;f=false" target="_blank"><em>Packaging Prototypes 3: Thinking Green</em></a>:</p>
<blockquote><p>&#8220;On returning to Holland [from Curacao], Alfred set about conceiving the first ever bottle designed specifically for secondary use as a building component, thereby turning the function of packaging on its head. By this philosophy, Alfred Heineken saw his beer as a useful product to fill a brick with while being shipped overseas. It became more a case of redesigning the brick than the bottle.&#8221;</p></blockquote>
<p>A handful of designers have accepted Alfred&#8217;s WOBO as one of the first eco-conscious consumer designs out there. Martin Pawley, for example, writes in <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=8ys-AQAAIAAJ&amp;q=Garbage+Housing&amp;dq=Garbage+Housing&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=V9uHUYKWDaKNigKz44CIAQ&amp;ved=0CDcQ6AEwAA" target="_blank"><em>Garbage Housing</em>,</a> that the bottle was “the first mass production container ever designed from the outset for secondary use as a building component.”</p>
<div id="attachment_14951" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 611px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14951" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/05/glass-beer-bottle-brick-wall.jpg" alt="" width="611" height="458" /><p class="wp-caption-text">A WOBO wall. Image courtesy of Flickr user <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/greeezer/3300645265/sizes/l/in/photostream/">greezer.ch</a>.</p></div>
<p>There were many variations of the original prototype—all of which were ultimately rejected as many components were considered unworkable. For example, a usable beer bottle needs a neck from which to pour the beer and a protruding neck makes it harder to stack the product once the beer&#8217;s run out—problematic for brick laying. The finalized design came in two sizes—<a href="http://inhabitat.com/heineken-wobo-the-brick-that-holds-beer/" target="_blank">350 and 500 milimeters </a>(35 and 50 centimeters)—the smaller of which acted as half-bricks to even out rows during construction. In 1963, the company made 50,000 WOBOs for commercial use.</p>
<p>Both designs (one of the wooden prototypes is pictured in <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=us_ABwdiHHEC&amp;pg=PA97&amp;dq=The+WOBO+project&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=H_aFUd7sJIH9igK5kIHQCw&amp;ved=0CDEQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&amp;q=The%20WOBO%20project&amp;f=false" target="_blank">Nigel Whiteley&#8217;s <em>Design for Socie</em></a><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=us_ABwdiHHEC&amp;pg=PA97&amp;dq=The+WOBO+project&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=H_aFUd7sJIH9igK5kIHQCw&amp;ved=0CDEQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&amp;q=The%20WOBO%20project&amp;f=false" target="_blank"><em>ty</em></a>), were ultimately rejected by the Heineken company. The first prototype for example, was described by the Heineken marketing team as too &#8220;effeminate&#8221; as the bottle <a href="http://books.google.com/books?ei=6nSBUf-ILeHNiwLBl4A4&amp;id=IvpPAAAAMAAJ&amp;dq=Martin+Pawley+Garbage+Housing+AND+heineken&amp;q=Heineken#search_anchor" target="_blank">lacked &#8216;approprate&#8217; connotations of masculinity</a>. A puzzling description, <a href="http://www.cabinetmagazine.org/issues/13/collins.php" target="_blank"><em>Cabinet</em></a> writes, &#8220;considering that the bottle consisted of two bulbous compartments surmounted by a long shaft.”</p>
<p>For the second model, Habraken and Heineken had to thicken the glass because it was meant to be laid horizontally—a costly decision for an already progressive concept. The established cylindrical designs were more cost effective and could be produced faster than the proposed brick design. But what most likely worked against Habraken&#8217;s design was that customers simply liked the easy-to-hold, cylindrical bottle.</p>
<p>Though the brick bottles never saw the market, in 1965 a <a href="http://www.cabinetmagazine.org/issues/13/Collins_wobohouse.jpg" target="_blank">prototype glass house</a> was built near Alfred Heineken’s villa in Noordwijk, outside Amsterdam. Even the plastic shipping pallets intended for the product were reused as sheet roofing. The two buildings still stand at the company&#8217;s former brewery-turned-museum, <a href="http://www.heineken.com/us/heineken-experience.aspx" target="_blank">The Heineken Experience. </a></p>
<div id="attachment_14937" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 450px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14937" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/05/etiket04-600.jpg" alt="" width="450" height="600" /><p class="wp-caption-text">A Heineken label circa 1931. Image courtesy of Heineken International.</p></div>
<p>Where Heineken failed in creating a reusable brick bottle, the company <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=SomdMIMhMeYC&amp;pg=PA29&amp;dq=heineken+square+bottles&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=FlyBUafQO6WUiQL7r4DICg&amp;ved=0CDgQ6AEwAA#v=snippet&amp;q=Emium&amp;f=false" target="_blank">EM1UM succeeded</a>. The bottles, which were easier to manufacture for most automatic bottling machines than Heineken&#8217;s design, were made to attach lengthways <em>or</em> sideways by pushing the knobs of one into the depressions of another. EM1UM was mostly successful in Argentina and collected awards for bottle designs including prisms, cubes and cylinders.</p>
<p>In 2008, French design company, <a href="http://www.behance.net/search?search=Petit+Romain" target="_blank">Petit Romain</a>, made plans to make its own take on Alfred Heineken&#8217;s WOBO design, the <a href="http://inhabitat.com/petit-romains-square-heineken-bottles-save-space-in-your-six-pack/heineken-cube-square-bottle-1/" target="_blank">Heineken Cube</a>. It&#8217;s similar to the original concept in that it&#8217;s stackable, packable and altogether better for travel than the usual, clinky, cylindrical bottles. The major difference is that the <a href="http://laughingsquid.com/heineken-wobo-a-beer-bottle-brick-for-building-eco-homes/" target="_blank">cube is meant to save space, not to build homes</a>.<strong> </strong>Like Freddy&#8217;s WOBO, the Cube is still in the prototype stage.</p>
<div id="attachment_14958" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 611px"><a href="http://laughingsquid.com/heineken-wobo-a-beer-bottle-brick-for-building-eco-homes/"><img class="size-full wp-image-14958" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/05/heineken-cube-square.jpg" alt="" width="611" height="432" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The prototype Heineken cube from Petit Romain via Laughing Squid</p></div>
<p>Though Freddy&#8217;s brick design never took off, it didn&#8217;t stop Heineken International from maintaining the lead in the global brew market. By &#8217;68, Heineken merged with its biggest competitor, Amstel. By &#8217;75 Freddy was one of the richest men in Europe.</p>
<p><strong>A fun, slightly-related fact:</strong> Alfred Heineken and his chauffeur were <a href="http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2001/may/25/andrewosborn" target="_blank">kidnapped in 198</a>3 and held at a 10 million dollar ransom in a warehouse for three weeks. Lucky for Freddy, one of the kidnappers gave away their location mistakenly while calling for some Chinese takeout. According to the <a href="http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2001/may/25/andrewosborn" target="_blank"><em>Guardian</em></a>, after the incident, Heineken required at least two bodyguards to travel with him at all times.</p>
<p>Alfred played a large role in the company&#8217;s expansion, championing a series of <a href="http://www.heinekeninternational.com/acquisitions.aspx" target="_blank">successful acquisitions</a>, right up until his death in 2002. While his plans for translucent, green bottle homes never came to fruition commercially, the <a href="http://www.treehugger.com/sustainable-product-design/buddhist-temple-built-from-beer-bottles.html" target="_blank">Wat Pa Maha Chedi Kaew temple</a>, constructed from a mix of one million bottles from Heineken and the local Chang beer remains proof of the design&#8217;s artfulness. For some designers, it seems, there is no such thing as garbage.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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		<title>Five Ways to Enjoy a Walnut</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/food/~3/nyfMAyhE0_c/</link>
		<comments>http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/05/five-ways-to-enjoy-a-walnut/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 13 May 2013 14:32:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Alastair Bland</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Agriculture & Farming]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Drinks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dordogne]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[france]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[French walnuts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Perigord]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[route de la noix]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[walnut bread]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[walnut liqueur]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[walnut wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[walnuts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[world walnut production]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/?p=14864</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[In France's Périgord region, never mind the truffles, foie gras and wine--at least for a day--because this country is ground zero of the noble walnut ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/05/five-ways-to-enjoy-a-walnut/walnuttable2/" rel="attachment wp-att-14884"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-14884" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/05/WalnutTable2.jpg" alt="" width="0" height="0" /></a></p>
<div id="attachment_14883" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/05/five-ways-to-enjoy-a-walnut/walnuttable1/" rel="attachment wp-att-14883"><img class="size-full wp-image-14883" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/05/WalnutTable1.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="420" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">A tabletop laden with goodies showcases the nut culture of the French Périgord, where locals make cheese, bread, oil and liqueur using the area&#8217;s walnuts. Photo by Alastair Bland.</p></div>
<p>Walnuts, like almonds, avocados, flax seeds and other things rich in good oils and antioxidants, are among the <a title="Walnut popularity overwhelms California nurseries" href="http://cvbizjournal.com/local-news/walnut-popularity-empties-central-valley-tree-nurseries.html#.UYx8KaL7BJE" target="_blank">rising stars</a> of the American whole foods health craze. But it never took a good word from <a title="Doctor Oz praises walnuts" href="http://www.doctoroz.com/blog/kristin-kirkpatrick-ms-rd-ld/wonderful-walnut" target="_blank">Dr. Oz</a> or <a title="Oprah praises walnuts" href="http://www.oprah.com/health/4-Oils-Good-for-the-Diet/3" target="_blank">Oprah</a> to make this nut a favorite in the Périgord region of southern France, where walnuts have flourished for <a title="Evidence of walnut cultivation in France goes back at least 80 centuries" href="http://www.fruitandnut.ie/walnuts.html" target="_blank">centuries</a>. Mature orchards line the highways and carpet the Dordogne River floodplain, plots of sapling twigs sprout their first year&#8217;s leaves in adjacent plots, trees blossom with the promise of a bumper autumn crop, and heaps and heaps of nuts are sold in bulk in virtually every single market. Deeper inside the local shops and households, one finds other things walnut&#8211;including fresh-pressed oil and whiskey-strong walnut booze. And following the road signs of the &#8220;<a title="Route de la Noix" href="http://www.noixduperigord.com/gabarre.html" target="_blank">Route de la Noix</a>,&#8221; a meandering circuit of small highways through the woods, travelers discover the Périgord&#8217;s most prolific walnut country&#8211;and along this route are walnut oil presses, walnut museums, <a title="The Distillerie de Salamandre, north of Sarlat" href="http://www.distillerie-salamandre.com/" target="_blank">distilleries</a>, and places to taste the Périgord&#8217;s variety of other walnut products. I, as it happens, am on vacation here, and for at least a few days I&#8217;m disregarding the region&#8217;s <em>foie gras</em>, truffles and wine and, instead, am making this visit to the Dordogne Valley a walnut tasting tour.</p>
<p>Here are five ways I&#8217;ve recently learned to enjoy this rising superstar of nuts:</p>
<p><strong>1. Drink it: <em>Eau-de-vie de noix</em></strong>. This liqueur&#8211;translated into something like &#8220;firewater of walnut&#8221;&#8211; begins as brandy, distilled from wine, but gains its distinguishing marks through several weeks of sitting on mashed-up walnuts. The final product, which may never touch an oak barrel, is usually just faintly yellow with a subtle candy-like nuttiness. The drink is dry&#8211;unsweetened&#8211;and usually weighs in at about 42 percent alcohol by volume. (Don&#8217;t get it mixed up with drinks like <em>vin de noix</em>, <em>eau de noix</em> or <em>liqueur de noix</em>, discussed below.) Drink eau-de-vie de noix straight or on the rocks to best savor its subtle essence&#8211;and in the name of France&#8217;s cherished food-and-drink traditions, keep the expensive bottle away from that hair-gelled mixologist friend of yours.</p>
<div id="attachment_14873" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/05/five-ways-to-enjoy-a-walnut/walnutliqueur/" rel="attachment wp-att-14873"><img class="size-full wp-image-14873" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/05/WalnutLiqueur.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="430" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Walnut-infused liquors of varying strength command varying prices at the Distillerie de la Salamandre, in Temniac, France. Photo by Alastair Bland.</p></div>
<p><strong>2. Drink It, Part II: Walnut wine.</strong> You&#8217;ll see this billed as &#8220;<a title="Perigord walnut wine" href="http://www.afar.com/highlights/walnut-wine-vin-de-noix?context=recent&amp;context_id=drink" target="_blank">vin de noix</a>&#8221; in the Perigord, yet the product is grape-based, made from straight red wine that sits on macerated green walnuts (harvested in the summertime, when bitter and scarcely edible) for several weeks before being sweetened with sugar and sometimes <a title="Making vin de noix, spiked with brandy" href="http://www.williamrubel.com/2011/09/28/delicous-vin-de-noix/" target="_blank">spiked with brandy or vodka</a>. Many households make this drink, as do inns where it may be served to guests. Relatively little is labeled and sold commercially, but visitors to the Dordogne Valley (it occurs in Italy and the Balkans, too) will have little trouble finding a glassful. Walnut wine usually runs about 16 percent alcohol by volume. But those who read bottle labels will observe that a similar product called &#8220;eau de noix&#8221; runs 18 percent, and that another labeled as &#8220;liqueur de noix&#8221; measures about 30. They are different renditions of the same recipe. Speaking of which, walnut wine is almost stupid-easy to <a title="Making walnut wine" href="http://www.oregonlive.com/hg/index.ssf/2010/05/vern_nelson.html" target="_blank">make yourself</a>; you need just green walnuts, wine, sugar, brandy and a few weeks.</p>
<p><strong>3. Drizzle It: Walnut oil.</strong> This is one of those oils that can be so delicious that one hates to do anything with it much more complicated than sipping it from a spoon. It is a product of the autumn, when the walnuts fall by the tons and tons throughout the Périgord. Many farmers rake up at least part of their crop and bring it to the local oil maker. Here, a grinding mill&#8211;<a title="Traditional walnut oil making in France " href="http://www.findingtheuniverse.com/2012/02/old-french-mill.html" target="_blank">sometimes decades old</a>&#8211;smashes the nuts, rendering a honey-golden juice that comes gurgling out into jugs. Often the walnuts are toasted before being ground, though some farmers of less traditional tendencies are now &#8220;<a title="Traditional and cold-pressed walnut oil" href="http://www.frenchentree.com/france-food-cuisine/displayarticle.asp?id=38199" target="_blank">cold-pressing</a>&#8221; the nuts for a subtler, softer oil&#8211;and supposedly with more health benefits. You may find roasted walnut oil to be superior. It is fragrant, rich, warm and toasty. Don&#8217;t even think of blending it with balsamic (even though the locals often do, perhaps since they have all they can use), and if you must make a dressing with it, go easy on the vinegar. Also, don&#8217;t use walnut oil for cooking, as high temperatures can supposedly annihilate its purported <a title="Ways to use walnut oil" href="http://allspiceonline.com/shop/oils/roasted-french-walnut-oil" target="_blank">health benefits</a> and burn away its aromas. The best ways to taste walnut oil may be to drizzle it over couscous, charcuterie, a runny egg yolk or a steaming plate of whole-grain bulgur.</p>
<p><strong>4.</strong> <strong>Eat It: Walnut Bread.</strong> The humble baguette may be the oven-made star of the French <em>boulangerie</em>&#8211;but walnut bread is better. Produced year-round and available in most good bakeries, walnut bread&#8211;sometimes made with whole wheat for a richer, fuller flavor&#8211;is often baked into a round loaf with a hard crust, and the nuts are inevitably toasted. Layer a slice with cheese&#8211;or drizzle it with walnut oil.</p>
<div id="attachment_14886" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 430px"><a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/05/five-ways-to-enjoy-a-walnut/walnutbread/" rel="attachment wp-att-14886"><img class="size-full wp-image-14886" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/05/WalnutBread.jpg" alt="" width="430" height="575" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Many sorts of breads in France trump the plain baguette, such as these morning loaves of fresh walnut bread spotted in the village bakery of Saint Julien de Lampon. Photo by Alastair Bland.</p></div>
<p><strong>5.  Spread it: Walnut cheese.</strong> Another specialty of the Périgord, walnut cheese may be encountered as a sticky Tomme-like substance called <a title="Echourgnac walnut cheese" href="http://www.culturecheesemag.com/Trappe_Echourgnac" target="_blank">Echourgnac</a>, made at the Trappist Abbey of Our Lady of Good Hope and soaked in walnut liquor. This treatment produces a strong-tasting and smoky scent&#8211;almost like cured anchovies&#8211;yet subtle in the walnut spectrum of flavors. One must consciously wish to taste walnut to believe he actually can&#8211;but the label of the Trappe Echourgnac, a 14-ounce walnut cheese wheel, verifies that, indeed, the stuff is bathed in &#8220;liqueur de noix.&#8221; Want a crunchier experience? Try <a title="Gourmandise cheese" href="http://www.courierpress.com/news/2012/jan/10/cheese-gourmandise-with-walnuts-a-taste-bud/" target="_blank">Gourmandise</a>, a blended cheese studded with crumbled walnuts.</p>
<div id="attachment_14870" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 400px"><a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/05/five-ways-to-enjoy-a-walnut/walnutroutedenoix/" rel="attachment wp-att-14870"><img class="size-full wp-image-14870" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/05/WalnutRouteDeNoix.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="575" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The Route of the Walnuts leads travelers in the Dordogne Valley past oil presses, museums, bakeries and distilleries, all in the midst of the region&#8217;s prolific walnut orchards. Photo by Alastair Bland.</p></div>
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		<title>The History of Baseball Stadium Nachos</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/food/~3/WtfDGU1VaUI/</link>
		<comments>http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/05/the-history-of-baseball-stadium-nachos/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 07 May 2013 14:12:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>K. Annabelle Smith</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[American food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Around the World]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Memorable meals]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[baseball]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[concessions]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ignacio Anaya]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[k. annabelle smith]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Liberto]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[nachos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ricos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Texas Rangers]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/?p=14498</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[From a Mexican maitre 'd's mishap in 1943 to the gooey, orange stuff you put on your chips at the baseball game today. ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/nachos-ricos-bowl-tmb.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-14536" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/nachos-ricos-bowl-tmb.jpg" alt="" width="0" height="0" /></a></p>
<div id="attachment_14535" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 600px"><a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/nachos-ricos-bowl-600.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-14535" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/nachos-ricos-bowl-600.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="357" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">A Ricos advertisement for the nacho bowl from the early &#8217;80s. Image courtesy of Ricos Products Co., Inc.</p></div>
<p>The smell of freshly cut grass, the crack of the bat, the 30 minutes standing in line at the concession stand. Baseball season is up and running and the experience of going to a game wouldn&#8217;t be the same without an expensive beer in one hand and a plastic receptacle<strong> </strong>of nachos covered in ooey-gooey cheese product in the other. But how did nachos become a stadium standard?</p>
<p>In September 1988, Adriana P. Orr, a researcher at the <em>Oxford English Dictionary, </em>was asked to trace the etymology of the word &#8220;nachos&#8221; and conducted an <a href="http://public.oed.com/aspects-of-english/word-stories/nachos-anyone/" target="_blank">initial investigation of the nacho story</a>. She followed a paper trail of documents and newspaper articles until she found what she was looking for in the Hispanic Division of the Library of Congress:</p>
<blockquote><p>&#8220;As I walked down the long corridor leading back to the library’s central core, I heard a voice softly calling my name. There was a young woman I recognized as a staff member of the Hispanic Division&#8230;she told me she had been born and raised in Mexico and there, nacho has only one common usage: it is the word used as a diminutive for a little boy who had been baptized Ignacio. His family and friends call him Nacho&#8230; Now I was convinced there was a real Nacho somewhere who had dreamed up a combination of tortilla pieces with melted cheese and jalapeño peppers.&#8221;</p></blockquote>
<p>Using this information, Orr tracked down a quote from the elusive 1954 <em>St Anne&#8217;s Cookbook </em>printed by The Church of the Redeemer, Eagle Pass, Texas, which includes a recipe for a dish called &#8220;Nachos Especiales<em>.&#8221; </em></p>
<p>What Orr would find is that, <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=SZOAI2aCwScC&amp;pg=PT21&amp;dq=How+the+Hot+Dog+Found+Its+Bun+AND+nachos&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=BaBPUcqUDuaeiQLI34HoCQ&amp;ved=0CC0Q6AEwAA" target="_blank">in 1943 in Piedras Negras, Mexico</a> — just across the border from Eagle Pass, a group of hungry army wives were the first to eat the meal. When the ladies went to a restaurant called the Victory Club, the maitre d&#8217;, Ignacio &#8220;Nacho&#8221; Anaya greeted them. Without a chef around, Anaya threw together whatever food he could find in the kitchen that &#8220;consisted of near canapes of tortilla chips, cheese, and jalapeno peppers.&#8221; The cheese of choice was reportedly <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=r31Jf2d3fvgC&amp;pg=PA62&amp;dq=Ignacio+Anaya&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=LpVhUburBeioigLfvIDYDQ&amp;ved=0CD4Q6AEwAg#v=onepage&amp;q=Ignacio%20Anaya&amp;f=false" target="_blank">Wisconsin cheddar</a>. Anaya named the dish <em>Nachos Especiales </em>and it caught on—on both sides of the border—and the orignal title was shortened to &#8220;nachos.&#8221;</p>
<p>Anaya died in 1975, but a bronze plaque was put up in Piedras, Negras, to honour his memory and October 21 was declared the<a href="http://www.piquenewsmagazine.com/whistler/snack-lovers-owe-one-to-howard-cosell/Content?oid=2287931" target="_blank"> International Day of the Nacho.</a></p>
<p>If Anaya is the progenitor of <em>nachos especiales, </em>then how did it happen that Frank Liberto came to be known <a href="http://www.naconline.org/news/articles/index.cfm?pg=n11.cfm" target="_blank">as &#8220;The Father of Nachos&#8221;</a>?  Nachos were already popular at restaurants in Texas by the time Liberto&#8217;s recipe hit the scene, but he&#8217;s famous in the industry for bringing his version of the dish to the concession stand in 1976 at a Texas Rangers baseball game in Arlington, Texas. What he did that no one else had done before, was create the pump-able consistency of the orangey-gooey goodness we see today—what the company calls &#8220;cheese sauce.&#8221; <strong> </strong>Though some versions are Wisconsin <a href="http://www.ricos.com/c-2-cans.aspx" target="_blank">cheddar-based</a> like Anaya&#8217;s original, according to the company most of the products are blends. (According to the <a href="http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/cfrsearch.cfm?cfrpart=133" target="_blank">Food and Drug Administration&#8217;s </a><span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px"><a href="http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/cfrsearch.cfm?cfrpart=133" target="_blank">standards</a>, the sauce is technically not &#8220;cheese,&#8221; but that hasn&#8217;t stopped fans from pumping it by the gallons since). </span><span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px">Liberto&#8217;s innovation didn&#8217;t need to be refrigerated and had a longer shelf life. His recipe was top secret—so secret that </span><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=SZOAI2aCwScC&amp;pg=PT22&amp;lpg=PT22&amp;dq=Liberto's+formula+1983&amp;source=bl&amp;ots=JEqR1pFCw1&amp;sig=Atahcr6r8tIMGCMSNevKbRfFAEA&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=BUFsUaavOce-igKNy4HYCA&amp;ved=0CDgQ6AEwAQ" target="_blank">in 1983 a 29-year-old man was arrested</a><span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px"> for trying to buy trade secrets into Liberto&#8217;s formula.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px">As a concessionaire, transaction time was key—Frank didn&#8217;t want customers to wait more than a minute in line for their snack. </span><span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px">To meet this demand, he came up with the idea of warming up a can of cheese sauce, ladling it over the chips and then sprinkling jalapeños on top.</span> Frank&#8217;s son and current president of Ricos Products Co., Inc., Anthony &#8216;Tony&#8217; Liberto, was 13 when Ricos introduced the product in Arlington Stadium. He recalls that the concession operators wouldn&#8217;t put the cheesy chips in the stands. They were afraid that the new product launch would cannibalize other popular items like popcorn, hotdogs and sodas.</p>
<p>&#8220;We had to build our own nacho carts,&#8221;  Liberto, now 50<strong>,</strong> says. &#8220;My dad has an old VHS tape where people were lined up 20 people deep behind these concession carts. You’d hear the crack of the bat and you&#8217;d think that they’d want to see what play was going on, but they stayed in line to get their nachos.&#8221;</p>
<div id="attachment_14597" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 600px"><a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/Ricos-characters-6001.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-14597" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/Ricos-characters-6001.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="416" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">This 35mm film trailer from the &#8217;70s starring Nacho, Rico and Pepe was created by Walt Disney animators and was used during intermission at movie theaters. Image courtesy of Ricos Products Co., Inc.</p></div>
<p><span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px">It was an immediate success: </span><span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px">That season Arlington Stadium sold Ricos&#8217; nachos at the rate of one sale per every two-and-a-half patrons—over $800,000 in sales. Popcorn, which previously had the highest sales, only sold to one in 14 patrons for a total of $85,000. T</span><span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px">here is one ingredient to thank for that shift, Liberto says: The jalapeño pepper.</span></p>
<p>&#8220;When you put a jalapeño pepper on chips and cheese, of course it’s going to be spicy,&#8221; he says. &#8220;You’re going to start looking for your beverage—a Coke or Pepsi, whatever—you’re gonna need something to drink.&#8221;</p>
<p><span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px">Beverage sales spiked and hotdog and popcorn sales thereafter, he says. By 1978, the spicy snack became available at the Dallas Cowboys&#8217; stadium, where iconic &#8220;Monday Night Football&#8221; announcer </span><a href="http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/sports_blog/2008/10/is-there-anythi.html" target="_blank">Howard Cosell</a><span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px"> would put nachos on the map. Cosell, a household name for football fans, sat alongside Frank Gifford and Don Meredith giving viewers the play-by-play, when a plate of nachos was brought to the broadcast room.</span></p>
<p>&#8220;Cosell was trying to take up some dead air and he says &#8216;They brought us this new snack—what do they call them? <em>knock-o’s</em> or nachos?&#8217;&#8221; recalls Liberto. &#8220;He started using the word &#8216;nachos&#8217; in the description of plays: &#8216;Did you see that run? That was a <em>nacho</em> run!&#8217;&#8221;</p>
<p>Cosell and others used the word for weeks after, allowing nachos to branch out from their Texas birthplace.</p>
<p>&#8220;My father first sold a condensed formulation of the product,&#8221; Tony says. &#8220;You open up the can, add water or milk and pepper juice to the mix.&#8221;</p>
<p>Each number ten can contains 107 ounces of the condensed cheese conconction to which 32 ounces of water and 20 ounces of pepper juice are added. Once combined, the cheese blend is put into a dispenser like the pump or button-operated machines you see at concession stands today.</p>
<p>&#8220;That&#8217;s an added 52 ounces of servable product,&#8221; Tony says. &#8220;Nearly 50 percent more sauce [than what comes in the can] Plus, the water is free and the pepper juice you get from the jalapenos anyway. You get an additonal 52 0z to serve and it doesn&#8217;t cost the company a dime.&#8221;</p>
<p>Just to make this profit thing clear—some math: If you have an extra 52 ounces of product and each two-ounce serving of cheese sauce goes for four bucks a pop, that&#8217;s 100 dollars directly into the concessionaire&#8217;s cash register.</p>
<div><span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px">T</span><span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px">oday Ricos sells product to 57 countries and works with </span><span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px">more than 200 distributors worldwide. </span><span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px"><span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px">Since the early &#8217;80s the company has dominated the movie theater concession industry and now families can “make every game a home game” when they take a portion-controlled pack<span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px"> home to enjoy.</span></span></span><span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px"> </span></div>
<div></div>
<div id="attachment_14595" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 600px"><a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/HawaiianSnolabel-600.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-14595" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/HawaiianSnolabel-600.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="463" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">An advertisement from 1956. The company responsible for stadium nachos surprisingly sells a lot of sno-cone products. Image courtesy of Ricos Products Co., Inc.</p></div>
<p><span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px">Tony has two children, a daughter (13) and a son (11), who he hopes will take an interest in working for the family business one day as he did. </span><span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px">His niece,</span><span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px"> Megan Petri (fifth generation), currently works for Ricos Products Co., Inc.</span><span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px"> </span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px">&#8220;We can&#8217;t go to any baseball game without getting an order of nachos,&#8221; says Liberto. &#8220;[My daughter] says &#8216;I need my nachos I need my nachos.&#8217; It&#8217;s like she needs her fix.&#8221;</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 13px;line-height: 19px">His daughter is not alone in her affinity for her family&#8217;s invention. As millions of people crunch into their plates of chips and cheesiness at baseball games and movie theaters around the world, one question remains: How much cheese is actually in the nacho sauce?</span></p>
<p>&#8220;I will not tell you that,&#8221; he laughs. &#8221;We&#8217;ve got lots of formulas and that is a a trade secret—you never want to give away how much cheese is in your product.&#8221;</p>
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		<title>What to Really Eat on Cinco de Mayo</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/food/~3/ipFL6QwEftE/</link>
		<comments>http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/05/what-to-really-eat-on-cinco-de-mayo/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 03 May 2013 17:12:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Shaylyn Esposito</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Food History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Holiday Food]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/?p=14739</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Put down the margarita and tacos and pick up a chalupa]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/05/what-to-really-eat-on-cinco-de-mayo/chalupas-471-cinco-de-mayo-2/" rel="attachment wp-att-14844"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-14844" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/05/Chalupas-471-Cinco-de-Mayo1.jpg" alt="" width="0" height="0" /></a></p>
<div id="attachment_14846" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/05/what-to-really-eat-on-cinco-de-mayo/cincodemayo-2/" rel="attachment wp-att-14846"><img class="size-full wp-image-14846" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/05/Cincodemayo.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="436" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Cinco de Mayo festival in Washington, D.C. (Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons).</p></div>
<p>Cinco de Mayo, as celebrated in the United States, shares some similarities to St. Patrick’s Day: a mainstream marketing fiasco that&#8217;s evolved out of an authentic celebration of cultural heritage. The typical Cinco de Mayo is a day of eating tacos and drinking margaritas. But, just like you won’t find <a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/03/is-corned-beef-really-irish/">corned beef</a> and green beer in Ireland on St. Patrick’s Day, you won’t find ground beef tacos, nachos and frozen margaritas in Mexico on Cinco de Mayo.</p>
<p>Contrary to popular belief, Cinco de Mayo is not Mexico’s Independence Day; it celebrates t<a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/aroundthemall/2010/05/did-you-know-cinco-de-mayo-celebrates-the-battle-of-puebla/">he Mexican victory at the Battle of Puebla</a> during the Franco-Mexican War, which came after Mexico’s independence from Spain, the Mexican-American War and the Mexican Civil War. In our neighbor to the south, the holiday is mainly celebrated in the region of <a href="http://www.smithsonianmag.com/travel/Savoring-Puebla.html">Puebla</a>, and mostly in the state&#8217;s capital city of the same name.</p>
<p>But what America’s Cinco de Mayo misses is the traditional food of Mexico, named to the <a href="http://www.npr.org/blogs/thetwo-way/2010/11/17/131391343/unesco-designates-traditional-french-and-mexican-cuisines-cultural-treasures">UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage</a>, a recognition given to only one other cuisine (French). And, nachos with refried beans, cheese wiz and jalapenos is nowhere on the list or in the country. <a href="http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424127887324439804578108792334260994.html">Taco Bell has even tried opening up in Mexico</a> but each time has failed, simply because no one will eat there.</p>
<p>What makes traditional Mexican fare worthy of such a distinction? You won’t find cumin soaked ground beef hard shell tacos topped with iceberg and cheddar. But, you will find lamb barbacoa that has been smoked underground in banana leaves or carnitas topped with queso fresco, pickled onions and homemade salsa verde wrapped in a warm homemade corn tortilla that has been ever so lightly heated on a <a href="http://mexicanfood.about.com/od/resources/a/comal.htm">comal</a>. And Puebla, just so happens to be considered by many, including <a href="https://www.rickbayless.com/" target="_blank">Rick Bayless</a> and <a href="http://markbittman.com/" target="_blank">Mark Bittman</a>, as the <a href="http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424127887324439804578108792334260994.html">gastronomic capital</a> of Mexico<strong>.</strong></p>
<div id="attachment_14835" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/05/what-to-really-eat-on-cinco-de-mayo/puebla-streets/" rel="attachment wp-att-14835"><img class="size-full wp-image-14835" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/05/Puebla-streets.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="383" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Puebla is not only known for its food, but also for its quaint colorful streets. (Photo courtesy of Flickr user <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/robphoto/2606385574/">RussBowling</a>).</p></div>
<p>Before Spanish explorers and immigrants swarmed Mexico, Puebla was already a culinary capital. The sacred town of Cholula known for its great pre-Colombian pyramid was also <a href="http://www.mexconnect.com/articles/2246-the-cuisine-of-puebla-cradle-of-corn">home to pre-Columbian street food</a>. In this ancient city, vendors would set up outside the pyramid to feed those who came to worship.</p>
<p>After arriving in Puebla, the Spanish settled close to Cholula and created what is known today as the city of Puebla. Religion was a major aspect of Spanish conquest and convents and monasteries were set up across the city. <a href="http://travel.nytimes.com/2005/11/20/travel/20T-PUEBLA.html?pagewanted=all">Spanish nuns invented</a> many of Puebla and Mexico’s most cherished dishes in these convents by integrating old world traditions with new world ingredients.</p>
<p>With that history in mind, here are three famous dishes from Puebla to try this Cinco de Mayo.</p>
<div id="attachment_14822" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/05/what-to-really-eat-on-cinco-de-mayo/mole-poblano-575/" rel="attachment wp-att-14822"><img class="size-full wp-image-14822" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/Mole-Poblano-575.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="382" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text"><em>Mole Poblano</em> is the iconic dish of Puebla. (Photo courtesy of <a href="http://www.chantalmartineau.com">Chantal Martineau</a>).</p></div>
<p><strong>1) Mole Poblano</strong></p>
<p><em>Mole Poblano</em> may be the most consumed dish in Puebla for Cinco de Mayo. But, what is mole (accent on the second syllable, as in guacamole)? There are two origin stories to the word mole. The first is that mole is the Spanish translation of the Aztec or Nahuatl word for sauce, <em><a href="http://www.mexconnect.com/articles/2122-demystifying-mole-mexico-s-national-dish">mulli</a></em>. The second is that mole comes from the Spanish word <em>moler</em>, which means to grind. Whichever story you want to believe, mole is a sauce made from ground up ingredients and comes in all colors and consistencies, but the thick dark mole poblano has made its mark on the international gastronomic world.</p>
<p>Legend has it that <em>mole poblano</em> was first created in the kitchen of the Santa Rosa convent in Puebla by Sor Andrea de la Asunción in the late seventeenth century. According to <em>The Theology of Food: Eating and the Eucharist</em>, Sor Andrea de la Asunción is said to have prepared it for <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tom%C3%A1s_de_la_Cerda,_3rd_Marquis_of_la_Laguna">don Tomás Antonio de la Cerda y Aragón</a>, the new viceroy of Spain. This dish is the ultimate combination of old and new world ingredients and cooking practices. This sauce can be somewhat daunting by the long laundry list of ingredients that requires various preparations. But, after one taste of this mole, all the roasting and toasting will be worth it.</p>
<p><em>Recommended Recipes:</em><br />
<a href="http://www.patismexicantable.com/2010/03/mole_poblano_de_los_angeles/" target="_blank">Mole Poblano, </a><em><a href="http://www.patismexicantable.com/2010/03/mole_poblano_de_los_angeles/" target="_blank">Pati&#8217;s Mexican Table</a><br />
</em><a href="http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Chicken-in-Mole-Puebla-Style-238185" target="_blank">Chicken in Mole, Puebla Style, <em>Epicurious</em></a></p>
<div id="attachment_14823" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/05/what-to-really-eat-on-cinco-de-mayo/chalupas-575/" rel="attachment wp-att-14823"><img class="size-full wp-image-14823 " src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/05/Chalupas-575.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="384" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text"><em>Chalupas Poblanas</em> are an infamous street food in Puebla. But, they are so popular that you will find them served at the top restaurants. (Photo courtesy of <a href="http://puebla-mexico.com">Rebecca Smith Hurd / All About Puebla</a>).</p></div>
<p><strong>2) Chalupas</strong></p>
<p><em>Chalupas, </em>an iconic Poblano street food, have a resemblance to tostadas and are the perfect <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antojitos">antojito</a> for any Cinco de Mayo celebration. To put it simply, chalupas are fried thick tortillas topped with salsa, shredded meat, chopped onion and sometimes <em>queso fresco</em>.</p>
<p>There are two versions to the history of chalupas. The first is that it gets its name from baskets. According to <a href="http://www.puebla-mexico.com/eat/">All About Puebla</a>,</p>
<blockquote><p>Chalupas date back to Colonial times, when Spanish settlers spent a good part of their days washing clothes by the Almoloya (San Francisco) River. It’s said that the women carried everything to the river in big baskets made of wood called chalupas, after which they’d rush home and quickly fry up corn tortillas in lard, top them with salsa, shredded beef or pork, and chopped onion – and call it dinner.</p></blockquote>
<p>The second is that they are named after the Aztec boats (chalupas) used in the ancient city of Tenochtitlan.</p>
<p><em>Recommended Recipes:</em><br />
<a href="http://www.saveur.com/article/Recipes/Mexico-Tortillas-Fried-Salsa" target="_blank">Chalupas Poblanas, <em>Saveur Magazine</em></a><em><a href="http://www.mexconnect.com/articles/2341-puebla-style-chalupas-chalupas-poblanas" target="_blank"><br />
</a></em><a href="http://www.mexconnect.com/articles/2341-puebla-style-chalupas-chalupas-poblanas" target="_blank">Chalupas Poblanas,</a><em><a href="http://www.mexconnect.com/articles/2341-puebla-style-chalupas-chalupas-poblanas" target="_blank"> Mexconnect</a></em></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<div id="attachment_14802" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/05/what-to-really-eat-on-cinco-de-mayo/chiles-en-nogada/" rel="attachment wp-att-14802"><img class="size-full wp-image-14802  " src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/Chiles-en-nogada.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="383" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text"><em>Chiles en Nogada</em> is one of the most celebrated dishes in Puebla. (Photo courtesy of <a href="http://www.themijachronicles.com/">Lesley Téllez / The Mija Chronicles</a>).</p></div>
<p><strong>3) </strong><strong>Chiles en Nogada</strong></p>
<p><em>Chiles en nogada</em> is an iconic dish of Mexico. It is said to have been invented in the convent of Santa Monica for <a href="http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/298070/Agustin-de-Iturbide">Agustin de Iturbide</a>&#8216;s visit to Puebla in 1821. Agustín de Iturbide was Mexico’s first emperor after Mexico won independence from Spain. He was served chiles en nogada in Puebla while traveling back to Mexico City from Veracruz after signing the <a href="http://www.history.com/this-day-in-history/spain-accepts-mexican-independence">Treaty of Cordoba</a>, which gave Mexico its independence.</p>
<p>The dish signifies Mexico’s independence and is made up of the colors of the Mexican flag; red, white and green. The flavors are just as colorful as the ingredients. The sweet, savory, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Picadillo">picadillo</a> stuffed poblano pepper dipped in egg batter, fried, and topped with a rich walnut sauce, pomegranate seeds and parsley is something you will not regret. Though it is more traditionally made for Mexico’s Independence Day, it is one of Puebla’s most cherished dishes.</p>
<p><em>Recommended Recipes:</em><br />
<a href="http://www.thekitchn.com/-guest-post-from-gabriela-of-g-127250" target="_blank">Chiles en Nogada, <em>The Kitchn</em></a><a href="http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2009/10/recipe-rick-baylesss-chiles-en-nogada/28008/" target="_blank"><br />
Rick Bayless&#8217; Chiles en Nogada, <em>The Atlantic</em><br />
</a></p>
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		<title>What’s Better at the New Orleans Jazz Fest: The Food or the Music?</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/food/~3/erSafjuukZQ/</link>
		<comments>http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/05/whats-better-at-the-new-orleans-jazz-fest-the-food-or-the-music/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 02 May 2013 17:44:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Leah Binkovitz</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[American food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[andouille sausage]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[what to get at jazz fest]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/?p=14766</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[From oyster patties to po'boys, crawfish to étouffée, the caterers and restaurants offer strong competition to the legends on the big stage]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-14792" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/JazzFest_Thumb.jpg" alt="" width="0" height="0" /></p>
<div id="attachment_14769" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14769" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/JazzFest.7.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="382" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Booths of food stretch as far as the eye can see and the stomach can handle. All photos by Leah Binkovitz</p></div>
<p>The annual <a title="Jazz Fest" href="http://www.nojazzfest.com/" target="_blank">Jazz and Heritage Festival</a> in New Orleans, Louisiana, is as famous for its music as it is for its food. In fact, some people insist it&#8217;s the po&#8217;boys and alligator pies that take center stage.</p>
<p>Born in 1970 and christened by the great gospel singer Mahalia Jackson, Jazz Fest is unlike any other music festival in the country and not just because it actually has good food. Residents and tourists arrive by foot, bike and cab–some official and others just enterprising locals with a car. The acts are a mix of big names–Billy Joel, Black Keys, Frank Ocean–and local favorites–Rebirth Brass Band, Lost Bayou Ramblers, Trombone Shorty. When everything wraps up in the early evening, the crowd filters out into the streets, past colorful shotgun houses, to continue the party around town.</p>
<p>In other words, it&#8217;s not just a festival in New Orleans, it&#8217;s a festival of New Orleans. So what&#8217;s more New Orleans: the food or the music?</p>
<div id="attachment_14774" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14774" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/JazzFest.18.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="382" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Tied with onion and fried, the crawfish sack (right) is a favorite at the festival.</p></div>
<p>For many who have been coming for many years, the festival can&#8217;t get started until they have their favorite dish to kick things off. Catherine King makes a beeline for Patton&#8217;s Catering for an oyster patty, crawfish sack and crawfish beignet. &#8220;It&#8217;s my tradition every year. This is the first thing I have to have.&#8221;</p>
<p>And even though seafood tends to dominate the conversation and the cooking, Bill Storer says he comes for the fried chicken. &#8220;I travel around the world in search of good fried chicken,&#8221; he says and since 1998, he&#8217;s traveled to New Orleans from San Jose, California for a plate of the good stuff at Jazz Fest.</p>
<p>Over the years, he says things haven&#8217;t changed much but he did have to switch his morning dive bar routine after the one he frequented closed recently. &#8220;You like to start off in the morning at a good, seedy bar,&#8221; he explains, &#8220;Have a few drinks right off and then come here for lunch.&#8221; This year he settled on Ms. Mae&#8217;s, located  across town. &#8220;It&#8217;s the ultimate dive bar. I was there and the lady said, please get out of the way, you&#8217;re standing in vomit.&#8221;</p>
<div id="attachment_14775" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14775" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/JazzFest.13.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="398" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Communal tables are a good place to get food reviews from other patrons before selecting your own menu.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_14773" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14773" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/JazzFest.11.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="386" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Note the handy beer cooler necklace for convenient two-hand eating.</p></div>
<p>The festival puts food front and center. After walking in past the gospel and jazz tents, a wide lawn of tables and food stands opens to your right. Each vendor offers one plate or dish. You can get Storer&#8217;s fried chicken and Cajun jambalaya from New Orleans&#8217; own Catering Unlimited or cheesy crawfish bread from Panorama Foods based in Marksville, Louisiana. With 22 stands representing all parts of Louisiana, this is just one of nine places to find a bite to eat so pace yourself.</p>
<p>Enchanted by the food, you might miss the truck off to your right, loaded up with produce courtesy a one Mr. Okra. Raised in the 3rd ward, he&#8217;s lived in the 8th for nearly 30 years but he&#8217;s known all over town. Mr. Okra can usually be found driving his truck loaded with lemons, greens and more through the streets of New Orleans, singing the day&#8217;s offering into a speaker system. Joined by his daughter and friend, Mr. Okra now offers his goods to Jazz Fest visitors as well. &#8220;I&#8217;ve been coming out here about three years. I like it,&#8221; he says seated in the truck with a view of the Jazz and Heritage stage, &#8220;You meet a lot of people.&#8221;</p>
<div id="attachment_14784" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14784" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/JazzFest.20.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="382" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Mr. Okra may be as famous in New Orleans as some of the performers.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_14807" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14807" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/05/Okra.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="455" /><p class="wp-caption-text">If you&#8217;re looking for fruit, this is one of the few places to get a piece.</p></div>
<p>Unlike Storer&#8217;s shuttered dive bar, the festival has continued to grow over the years, surviving hurricanes and oil spills. According to retired shrimper Jim Hebert, the explanation for that is simple: &#8220;We still have the best seafood around and that&#8217;s coming from a Cajun in the seafood industry.&#8221; Po&#8217;Boy in hand, Hebert explains, &#8220;I&#8217;m kind of partial to shrimp, my family is in the shrimping business.&#8221;</p>
<p>Hebert hadn&#8217;t been back to Jazz Fest for nearly 20 years, but says it&#8217;s even better than he remembers. &#8220;Although it was fantastic back then, this has grown.&#8221; Spread over two weekends, the festival attracts hundreds of thousands of food and music fans. Twelve music tents offer a wide variety of experiences. If you want the big shows and big crowds, the Acura Stage offers that for more mainstream acts (and rather un-jazzy) including Maroon 5 and Fleetwood Mac. Breaking the trend at Acura, though, is one act you won&#8217;t want to miss: the legendary Trombone Shorty (so named because he was tearing it up even as a kid) and Orleans Avenue, performing Sunday. Meanwhile the Fais Do-Do Stage, named for the Cajun dance parties that borrowed the name from mothers whispering &#8220;fais do-do&#8221; or &#8220;go to sleep&#8221; to fussy children, has a smaller stage and bleachers you might even get a chance to sit on. For local acts, like the Stooges Brass Band or the festival favorite Mardi Gras Indians, the Jazz and Heritage Stage also offers a smaller space.</p>
<p>You can also catch some of the Mardi Gras Indians and second line bands as they parade through the festival itself. Born out of funerary traditions, the second-line parades are full of color and big brass and not to be missed. Everyone gets in on the action, including children, and crowds join in behind the slow march, clapping and dancing. There is a schedule but the felicitous appearance of the music makes it all the more infectious.</p>
<div id="attachment_14778" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14778" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/JazzFest.16.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="382" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Hot sauce goes fast at one stand.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_14777" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14777" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/JazzFest.22.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="382" /><p class="wp-caption-text">After a career in shrimping, Hebert says he&#8217;s actually about to invest in oysters, another favorite of the area.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_14768" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14768" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/JazzFest.6.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="535" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Mardi Gras Indians entertain crowds at Jazz Fest.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_14787" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14787" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/JazzFest.24.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="466" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Sometimes the most engaging performers aren&#8217;t even on the stages.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_14793" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14793" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/JazzFest.17.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="409" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Not your typical music festival attire.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_14786" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14786" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/JazzFest.25.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="419" /><p class="wp-caption-text">The second line parades keep things lively as you walk from stage to stage.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_14785" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14785" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/JazzFest.1.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="382" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Born out of funerary traditions, second line parades get the good times rolling with bright colors and great music.</p></div>
<p>You can even park at one of the tables after getting your food and likely catch one of these high-energy parades.</p>
<p>A couple of Coors in front of him, Kenneth Gunndersson is digging into a mound of juicy red crawfish as a group of feathered Mardi Gras Indians go by. He traveled all the way from Sweden for the dish and he says it actually reminds him of home. &#8220;In Sweden, we eat crawfish but the spices are not that strong,&#8221; he explains, &#8220;We use dill and salt.&#8221;</p>
<p>&#8220;And vodka!&#8221; His friend interrupts.</p>
<p>&#8220;Yeah, we drink vodka too.&#8221; Gunndersson says crawfish are popular for a few weeks in August in Sweden. &#8220;I remember when I was a boy, fishing for crawfish with my brother, my father and my uncle. Every time I eat crawfish it reminds me of my home and my childhood.&#8221;</p>
<p>Halfway through a tour of cities that would take him to Nashville and Memphis, Tennessee; Mississippi; and Austin, Texas as well as New Orleans, Gunndersson says, &#8220;The best food? New Orleans, of course.&#8221;</p>
<div id="attachment_14770" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14770" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/JazzFest.8.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="382" /><p class="wp-caption-text">You can&#8217;t go wrong with crawfish and beer.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_14771" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14771" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/JazzFest.9.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="382" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Only his second time at Jazz Fest, Gunndersson (left) says the reasons for traveling across the world are pretty self-explanatory: &#8220;Look around: you listen to music, you eat, you drink, people are friendly, you&#8217;re having a good time.&#8221;</p></div>
<div id="attachment_14790" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14790" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/JazzFest.21.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="394" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Cool down with a mango freeze, available at multiple locations around the fair grounds.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_14810" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14810" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/05/Dance.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="424" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Dancing not required, but also irresistible.</p></div>
<p>If you can&#8217;t make it to Jazz Fest this weekend, listen in over at <a title="WWOZ" href="http://www.wwoz.org/" target="_blank">WWOZ</a>.</p>
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		<title>Strawberries Still Green? You’re on Trend!</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 30 Apr 2013 13:56:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Twilight Greenaway</dc:creator>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/?p=14730</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Chefs around the country are experimenting with the springy, tart version of this favorite berry. Try pickling them yourself]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-14734" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/Green_strawberries_470.jpg" alt="" width="0" height="0" /></p>
<div id="attachment_14732" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14732" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/Green_strawberries_575_cuesa.jpg" alt="Green strawberries for sale at the farmers market" width="575" height="431" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Green strawberries for sale from Yerena Farms at San Francisco&#8217;s Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo courtesy of <a href="www.cuesa.org/">CUESA</a>.</p></div>
<p>In April, most seasonal restaurants tend toward green foods. As the weather shifts, and new crops come to life, plates are decorated with tender young peas, asparagus, green garlic, and spring onions. And now, the green strawberry is joining the ranks.</p>
<p>Picked earlier than their red cousins (and abundant this time of year), green strawberries have been popping up on high-end menus <a href="http://www.tastingtable.com/live_feed_detail/national/9269/Trend_Watch_Green_Strawberries.htm">for the last several years</a>. And they show no sign of going out of style any time soon. Evan Rich, chef at the new San Francisco hot spot <a href="http://richtablesf.com/">Rich Table</a>, decided to take the plunge this year after noting the presence of green strawberries on a number of menus he admired. Then the underripe berries made an appearance at the <a href="http://www.cuesa.org/">Ferry Plaza Farmers Market</a>. <a href="http://www.cuesa.org/farm/yerena-farms">Yerena Farms</a>, a small organic berry grower based in California’s Monterey County was promoting the unusual item, and selling them to a number of prominent local chefs.</p>
<p>Rich bought several flats of the berries and pickled them using a simple brine of champagne vinegar, sugar and salt. Now he’s serving them with yogurt atop a scallop chip (the result of a process wherein the inventive chef purees, flattens, dehydrates and fries a local scallop).</p>
<p>So far, Rich been pleased with the results — a tart, perfumy flavor that catches diners  just a little off-guard.  “They have all the qualities of a strawberry without the sweetness,” he says.  “They also provide a little hint of the sweet summer fruit to come.”</p>
<p>In cities like Portland, Oregon, where spring goes on a little longer, chefs <a href="http://www.portlandmonthlymag.com/eat-and-drink/eat-beat/articles/strawberries-get-savory-may-2012">have been seen</a> pairing green strawberries with things like duck confit and rhubarb well into May. But green strawberries aren’t just for savory dishes. Brooklyn’s hipster pizzeria Roberta’s makes a <a href="http://www.foodspotting.com/places/503-roberta-s-brooklyn/items/737905-green-strawberry-shortcake">green strawberries shortcake</a> and at San Francisco’s <a href="http://www.perbaccosf.com/">Perbacco</a>, pastry chef Laura Cronin regularly incorporates this unusual ingredient into her desserts this time of year.</p>
<p>“They have a more acidic flavor than red strawberries. I candy them or toss them in a sugar syrup seasoned with bay leaf and other spices and herbs,&#8221; she said recently. &#8220;I love the crispness they bring to the dish as well as the kiwi-like flavor they take on when macerated in sugar.”</p>
<p>Cronin&#8217;s latest creation? Candy cap mushroom donuts filled with green strawberry compote.</p>
<p>Unless you grow them yourself, finding a regular supply of green strawberries might be tricky for the average consumer. But it&#8217;s worth asking the vendors at your local farmers market if they&#8217;d considering picking a few flats of the fruit a week or so earlier than planned. Of course, green strawberries probably won&#8217;t ever ripen up to peak sweetness, so if you do pick or buy them at this stage, be sure to have a plan on hand for how to use them, like this simple pickling recipe that <a href="http://www.cuesa.org/farm/yerena-farms">Yerena Farms</a> has been handing out at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market.</p>
<p><strong>For the pickling:</strong></p>
<p>1 part rice wine vinegar<br />
1 part sugar<br />
½ part water<br />
¼ part lime juice</p>
<p><strong>For the flavoring:</strong></p>
<p>Orange rind<br />
Peppercorn<br />
Ginger<br />
Coriander</p>
<p><strong>Create:</strong></p>
<p>Dissolve the sugar into the vinegar with water. Cool completely. Combine strawberries, flavorings, and brine in a mason jar. Refrigerate for 2+ days. Get creative with flavorings. Have a pickle party and pair with cheese!</p>
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		<title>What Modern Art Looks Like As Yummy Dessert</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/food/~3/gXHv3aA78M8/</link>
		<comments>http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/04/what-modern-art-looks-like-as-yummy-dessert/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 19 Apr 2013 15:00:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Marina Koren</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Books]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food in Art]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/?p=14646</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Pastry chef Caitlin Freeman uses inspiration from modern art to whip up cakes, cookies and other desserts]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-14681" title="Thiebaud-cake-thumb" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/Thiebaud-cake-thumb.jpg" alt="Thiebaud cake" width="0" height="0" /></p>
<div id="attachment_14647" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 600px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14647" title="mondrian-cake-600" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/mondrian-cake-600.jpg" alt="Cake" width="600" height="657" /><p class="wp-caption-text"><em>From start to finish, pastry chef Caitlin Freeman&#8217;s Mondrian cake, inspired by modernist painting, takes two days to complete. Photo by Clay MacLachlan/Modern Art Desserts: Recipes for Cakes, Cookies, Confections, and Frozen Treats Based on Iconic Works of Art © 2013 Mondrian/Holttzman Trust <br /></em></p></div>
<p>Artist <a href="http://www.sfmoma.org/explore/collection/artists/862" target="_blank">Piet Mondrian</a> used oil on canvas to create his famous geometric composition of neat red, yellow and blue squares and straight black lines.</p>
<p>Caitlin Freeman’s interpretation of this work of art is slightly different, and sweeter. Her medium? Flour, sugar, eggs and vanilla extract in a baking pan.</p>
<p>The pastry chef pulls inspiration from art and whips it into cakes, cookies, gelées and parfaits at her café on the fifth floor of the <a href="http://www.sfmoma.org/" target="_blank">San Francisco Museum of Modern Art</a>. The Mondrian cake, a compilation of moist yellow cake cubes coated in chocolate ganache, is the best seller at the museum location of the <a href="http://www.bluebottlecoffee.com/" target="_blank">Blue Bottle Coffee Bar</a>, which she runs with her husband, James.<em> </em></p>
<p>In the café’s four years of operation, Freeman and her team have created nearly 100 desserts inspired by artwork that has appeared, at one time or another, on the museum’s walls. Twenty-seven of them, gleaned from works by Andy Warhol, Frida Kahlo and Henri Matisse, are featured in <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Modern-Art-Desserts-Recipes-Confections/dp/1607743906/ref=sr_1_143?s=books&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1358953885&amp;sr=1-143&amp;keywords=cookbook" target="_blank">her new cookbook</a>, <em>Modern Art Desserts: Recipes for Cakes, Cookies, Confections, and Frozen Treats Based on Iconic Works of Art</em>, published this week. Each recipe is accompanied by a photo of the original artwork, with detailed history written by <a href="http://www.sfmoma.org/about/press/press_history_staff/pr_staff_curator_painting" target="_blank">Janet Bishop</a>, the museum’s painting and sculpture curator.</p>
<div id="attachment_14654" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 590px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14654" title="mondrian-painting-600" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/mondrian-painting-600.jpg" alt="Mondrian painting" width="590" height="597" /><p class="wp-caption-text"><em>Piet Mondrian&#8217;s </em>Composition (No. III)<em>, the inspiration for Freeman&#8217;s best-selling cake.</em> <em>Photo courtesy of Flickr user <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/groume/7850171896/" target="_blank">Groume</a>. © 2013 Mondrian/Holttzman Trust <br /></em></p></div>
<p>Freeman includes a photo of her very first attempt at a Mondrian cake, which she says is quite embarrassing to look back on. “It wasn’t perfect, but we just had to make a few thousand of them to feel like we had a hang of what we were doing with that cake,” Freeman says. “You don’t know until you do that final cut whether or not it’s all come together, so that one’s a tricky one.”</p>
<p>Crafting art-inspired cakes wasn’t always the plan for Freeman. She studied photography at the University of California, Santa Cruz, but figured she’d eventually become a dentist—a career goal she explains was likely thwarted by her big sweet tooth. During a trip to the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, Freeman fell in love with frequent pastry-painter <a href="http://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/Wayne-Thiebaud-is-Not-a-Pop-Artist.html" target="_blank">Wayne Thiebaud’s</a> <a href="http://www.sfmoma.org/explore/collection/artwork/65" target="_blank"><em>Display Cakes</em></a>, a 1963 oil painting of a trio of ready-to-eat cakes. Determined to become a pastry chef, she joined a new, small bakery called <a href="https://www.miette.com/" target="_blank">Miette</a>, learning on the job and graduating from dishwasher to cake decorator (and business partner). She left Miette after seven years. Shortly after, the modern art museum called her and her husband about Blue Bottle Coffee setting up shop in its new rooftop garden.</p>
<div id="attachment_14658" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 496px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14658" title="Thiebaud-cake-600" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/Thiebaud-cake-600.jpg" alt="Thiebaud cake" width="496" height="600" /><p class="wp-caption-text"><em>Freeman&#8217;s identical, real-life representation of Wayne Thiebaud&#8217;s </em><a href="http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/prints-multiples/wayne-thiebaud-chocolate-cake-from-seven-still-lifes-5364061-details.aspx" target="_blank">Chocolate Cake</a><em>, a 1971 single-color lithograph printed in brown ink. Photo by Clay MacLachlan/Modern Art Desserts: Recipes for Cakes, Cookies, Confections, and Frozen Treats Based on Iconic Works of Art</em></p></div>
<p>“My reaction, since I was young, going into art galleries was seeing a piece of art that I really like, and liking it so much that I want to steal it or eat it,” Freeman jokes. “This is my way of doing something about it—just liking something so much that it inspires you to do something.”</p>
<p>How does Freeman move art from the canvas to the cake pan? Countless walk-throughs in the museum&#8217;s collections and multiple brainstorming sessions with her team. Some pieces lend themselves immediately to their dessert doppelgangers. For example, artist Ellsworth Kelly’s <em>Stele I,</em> a one-inch-thick, 18-foot-tall rust-colored oblong steel plate <a href="http://www.sfmoma.org/explore/collection/artwork/30874" target="_blank">looks like an over-sized fudge popsicle</a>.</p>
<p>But sometimes, Freeman says, the inspiration just doesn’t come. Landscape art, in the style of Ansel Adams and Georgia O’Keeffe, was tough to delineate in dessert form, so Freeman told her baristas to do the best they could with leaf-like latte art.</p>
<div id="attachment_14663" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 600px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14663" title="lichtenstein-cake-600" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/lichtenstein-cake-6001.jpg" alt="Two cakes" width="600" height="300" /><p class="wp-caption-text"><em>Roy Lichtenstein&#8217;s </em>Rouen Cathedral Set V<em> (left), and Freeman&#8217;s layered red velvet-and-cream-cheese cake. Photos courtesy of Flickr user <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/gnaihc/7034465841/" target="_blank">Jeffrey Chiang</a> and Clay MacLachlan/Modern Art Desserts: Recipes for Cakes, Cookies, Confections, and Frozen Treats Based on Iconic Works of Art</em></p></div>
<p>The colors in a given work of art usually drive the flavors in the resulting dessert. “If it’s all filled with blues and greens, it’s really hard to come up with something that’s tasty that’s blue,” Freeman says. A Ronald Fischer <a href="http://www.clevelandart.org/art/2005.143" target="_blank">photograph of a shirtless beekeeper</a> covered in bees led to a white chocolate box with a honey-pistachio parfait filling. The deep reds in Roy Lichtenstein’s triptych <a href="http://www.sfmoma.org/explore/collection/artwork/196" target="_blank">painting of a French cathedral</a> became a spongy red velvet cake. Andy Warhol’s <a href="http://www.sfmoma.org/explore/collection/artwork/27664" target="_blank">famous brightly colored print</a> of Elizabeth Taylor gave rise to a neatly stacked gelatin treat of red, pink and mint squares.</p>
<p>Many of the cookbook’s desserts take several hours or even a day to complete, which can seem daunting to the average at-home baker. Freeman lays out a step-by-step assembly guide, instructing readers on how to temper chocolate, master butter cream and use <a href="http://candy.about.com/od/phototutorials/ss/sbs_transfers.htm">chocolate transfer sheets</a>, which add elaborate, stencil-like designs to finished sweets. “I didn’t want there to be big barriers of entry,&#8221; she says.</p>
<p>Frankly, when it comes to dessert, I think most people would agree.</p>
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		<title>How One Family Helped Change the Way We Eat Ham</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/food/~3/JsIMg_sNWsk/</link>
		<comments>http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/04/how-one-family-helped-change-the-way-we-eat-ham/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 15 Apr 2013 13:18:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Rachel Nuwer</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Agriculture & Farming]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/?p=14531</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The Harris family struck gold when they introduced the ice house to England in 1856, but what were the costs of their innovation?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-14534" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/rsz_ginger_pig_and_piglets.jpg" alt="" width="0" height="0" /></p>
<div id="attachment_14532" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><img class=" wp-image-14532 " src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/Ginger-pig-and-piglets-1025x683.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="383" /><p class="wp-caption-text">A ginger sow and her piglets at the Ginger Pig&#8217;s Yorkshire farm. Photo: <a href="http://www.thegingerpig.co.uk/" target="_blank">The Ginger Pig</a></p></div>
<p>When we think about pigs today, most of us likely imagine the <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=pig+farming&amp;source=lnms&amp;tbm=isch&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=_YlpUeHiL6Ky7Ab2m4HoAw&amp;ved=0CAoQ_AUoAQ&amp;biw=1390&amp;bih=693#tbm=isch&amp;sa=1&amp;q=wilbur+pig&amp;oq=wilbur+pig&amp;gs_l=img.3..0l2j0i24l3.41424.44053.2.44196.12.10.1.1.1.0.69.486.10.10.0...0.0...1c.1.9.img.Ep_ZyH51fPQ&amp;bav=on.2,or.r_cp.r_qf.&amp;bvm=bv.45175338,d.d2k&amp;fp=a1f5e1af1f20506&amp;biw=1390&amp;bih=729&amp;imgrc=ZFYEjKsVfQS3yM%3A%3B6gle6vwe7U2ksM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Ffe867b.medialib.glogster.com%252Fmedia%252F60%252F6059e5471d70de1a42aadb8173669da268fa1967ac400d54c8dbfb1eda21829e%252Fdani-charlotte-s-web.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.glogster.com%252Fold%252Fview%253Fnickname%253Ddraines07%2526title%253Dcharlottes-web%252F%3B600%3B400" target="_blank">Wilbur</a> or <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=pig+farming&amp;source=lnms&amp;tbm=isch&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=_YlpUeHiL6Ky7Ab2m4HoAw&amp;ved=0CAoQ_AUoAQ&amp;biw=1390&amp;bih=693#tbm=isch&amp;sa=1&amp;q=babe+pig&amp;oq=babe+pig&amp;gs_l=img.3..0l10.12557.14135.5.14310.10.8.1.1.1.0.128.498.7j1.8.0...0.0...1c.1.9.img.RJHDJ8FPn5Y&amp;bav=on.2,or.r_cp.r_qf.&amp;bvm=bv.45175338,d.d2k&amp;fp=a1f5e1af1f20506&amp;biw=1390&amp;bih=729&amp;imgrc=c83H-0dXHmDsAM%3A%3B4yB9AK9quFCIGM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fi2.listal.com%252Fimage%252F1459695%252F600full-babe%25253A-pig-in-the-city-screenshot.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.listal.com%252Fviewimage%252F1459695%3B600%3B354" target="_blank">Babe</a>-type variety: pink and more or less hairless. Mention <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=pig+farming&amp;source=lnms&amp;tbm=isch&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=_YlpUeHiL6Ky7Ab2m4HoAw&amp;ved=0CAoQ_AUoAQ&amp;biw=1390&amp;bih=693#tbm=isch&amp;sa=1&amp;q=pig+farming+industrial&amp;oq=pig+farming+industrial&amp;gs_l=img.3...60956.62500.0.62682.11.8.0.3.3.0.76.437.8.8.0...0.0...1c.1.9.img.-dfkttAjV60&amp;bav=on.2,or.r_cp.r_qf.&amp;bvm=bv.45175338,d.d2k&amp;fp=a1f5e1af1f20506&amp;biw=1390&amp;bih=729" target="_blank">pig farming</a> and images of hundreds upon hundreds of animals crammed into indoor cages may come to mind, too. But it wasn&#8217;t always like this. Prior to the industrial revolution, pigs came in an astounding variety of shapes, sizes, colors and personalities. And the ham made from their cured meat was just as diverse.</p>
<p>&#8220;The tale of ham&#8217;s innovation began around 200 years ago, and it paved the way for how ham is produced today,&#8221; said Nicola Swift, the creative food director of the <a href="http://www.thegingerpig.co.uk/" target="_blank">Ginger Pig</a>, a company of butchers and farmers that specializes in rare breeds of livestock reared in England&#8217;s North York Moors. Swift presented a talk on the history of ham at the <a href="http://devslovebacon.com/" target="_blank">BACON conference</a> in London last weekend, which sadly was not devoted to bacon but to &#8220;things developers love.&#8221;<strong></strong></p>
<p>One family in particular, the Harrises, almost single-handily changed the way England turned pigs into ham, she explained, and in doing so, they inadvertently laid the foundations for large-scale, homogenized pig farming.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=102814" target="_blank">Mary and John Harris</a> were pig folk. Their family hailed from Calne, a quiet town in Southwest England. In the early and mid-1800s, they played a small but important role in providing London with pork. At the time, much of London&#8217;s pork arrived by way of Ireland. But without refrigeration, transporting large amounts of meat was impossible. Instead, pig handlers would literally walk the animals to the Irish coast, corral them onto boats destined for Bristol, and then continue to trek to London by foot.</p>
<p>But a deliciously fat pig forced to trot more than 100 miles would soon turn into a lean, tough mass of muscle. To make sure the ham, chops and bacon that those animals were destined to become remained fatty, tender and flavorful, pig herders would make pit stops along the way to give the animals a rest and fatten them up. The Harris farm was one such destination. The family also supplied Calne with meat from their small shop on Butcher&#8217;s Row, founded in 1770.</p>
<p>The Harrises were by no means well off. If they butchered 6 or 8 pigs in a week they wrote it off as a success. Still, they got by all right. That is, until tragedy struck. In 1837, John Harris, the relatively young head of the household, died suddenly, leaving his wife, Mary, to manage the business and look after the couple&#8217;s 12 children. A few years later, just as the family was getting back on its feet, hard times fell upon them once again. It was 1847, and the Irish potato famine arrived.</p>
<p>In Ireland, potatoes fed not only people but their pigs, too. As season after season of potato crops failed, the Irish could not feed themselves, much less their animals. The supply of pork to the Harris&#8217; farm and butcher shop stopped arriving. In desperation, Mary and her son, George, hatched a scheme to send George to America by ship. The idea, they decided, was for George to strike up a pig business deal with American farmers and figure out a way to transport their slaughtered animals across the Atlantic in boxes packed with salt to ward off spoilage during the long journey. On its way to England, that meat would cure into ham and George&#8217;s entrepreneurial venture would save the family.</p>
<p>Not surprisingly, George failed in his mission. But while in the States, he did learn of a remarkable new practice the Americans were pursuing called ice houses. In the U.S., this method allowed farmers to slaughter pigs not only in months ending in an &#8216;r&#8217; (or those cold enough for the meat not to rot before it could be cured and preserved), but during any time of year &#8211; even in steamy July or August. Curing, or the process of preventing decomposition-causing bacteria from setting in by packing the meat in salt, was then the only way to preserve pork for periods of time longer than 36 hours. Such horrendously salty meat was eaten out of necessity rather than enjoyment, however, and it often required sitting in a bucket of water for days at time before it could be rinsed of its saltiness to the point that it would even be palatable. &#8221;This all harks back to the day when people had to preserve something when they had lots of it because there were other times when they didn&#8217;t have much,&#8221; Swift said. &#8220;This type of preserving goes back hundreds and hundreds of years.&#8221;</p>
<p>Ice houses, specially constructed sheds with packed ice blocks either collected locally or imported from Norway, offered partial relief from that practice, however. Charcoal acted as an insulator, preventing the ice from melting quickly and trapping the cool air within the small room.</p>
<p>When George returned home, curly tail between legs, he immediately got busy earning back his family&#8217;s trust by experimenting with ice house design. By 1856, he had succeeded in constructing what was likely the first ice house in England. The ham that resulted from slaughtering pigs in that cool confine was more tender and tasty since it didn&#8217;t have to be aggressively cured with large amounts of salt. Eventually, the Harrises shifted to brining techniques, or curing in liquid, which led to the creation of the massively popular <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiltshire_cure" target="_blank">Wiltshire ham</a>.</p>
<p>The family patented George&#8217;s creation, and it soon began spreading to other farmers and ham producers who licensed the technology around the country. The Harris&#8217; wealth increased so quickly and so dramatically that they partly financed the construction of a branch of the Great Western Railway to their village in 1863. Several decades after that, they helped bring electricity to Calne.</p>
<div id="attachment_14545" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 341px"><img class=" wp-image-14545  " src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/piglet.jpg" alt="" width="341" height="479" /><p class="wp-caption-text">When breeders cross a ginger pig with a black pig, the results are a delightful black-spotted ginger piglet. Photo: <a href="http://www.thegingerpig.co.uk/" target="_blank">The Ginger Pig</a></p></div>
<p>While the Harris&#8217; tale is one of personal triumph, their mark on England&#8217;s ham production did not come without cultural costs. Prior to the ice house, each region in the UK and Ireland enjoyed their own specific breed of pig. <span style="font-size: 13px;">In Lincolnshire, for example, Lincolnshire ham originated from the Lincolnshire curly coat, an enormous beast of a pig that was around twice the size of the animals typically bred today. It&#8217;s long, thick curly white coat kept the hardy animal warm throughout the damp winters, and its high fat content provided plenty of energy for the farm laborers that relied upon its exceptionally salty ham for sustenance. After a long decline, that breed finally went extinct in the 1970s thanks to industrialized farming.</span></p>
<p>Other regions once boasted their own breeds and unique ham brews. In Shropshire, people made &#8220;black ham,&#8221; which they cured along with molasses, beer and spices. This created an exceptional mix of salty sweetness, with a tinge of sourness from the beer. In Yorkshire, a breed called the large white &#8211; which is still around today &#8211; inspired a method of steaming cured ham in order to more efficiently remove the salt, while in Gloucestershire people preferred to add apples to their ham cures. But after the Harris&#8217; ham empire took off, a massive advertising campaign that followed painted a picture of what ham and bacon should look and taste like, largely removing these traditions from kitchens around the country. &#8220;Most of the regional variances are sadly not known any more except to ham geeks,&#8221; Swift said.</p>
<p>In addition to stamping out ham variety, the Harris&#8217; factory &#8211; which soon employed hundreds of staff and processed thousands of pigs each week &#8211; and others like it began favoring homogenized mass-production methods of indoor pig rearing. Older residents in Calne recall the factory&#8217;s unmistakable reek in the 1930s. Eventually, <a href="http://mfo.me.uk/histories/harris.php" target="_blank">public protests caused its closure</a> and demolition in the 1960s, but for local pigs and ham, the damage was already done. Between 1900 to 1973, 26 of the unique regional breeds of pigs and other livestock went extinct, with others surviving only in very small numbers.</p>
<p>To try and preserve pig and other livestock heritage, concerned citizens formed the non-profit <a href="https://www.rbst.org.uk/" target="_blank">Rare Breeds Survival Trust</a> in 1973, which maintains a sort of endangered species list and conservation group for farm animals on the fringe. In addition, farms such as Swift&#8217;s Ginger Pig specialize in breeding and reintroducing some of these lines into restaurants and local butcher shops in London and beyond, and in introducing traditional curing techniques through their upcoming book, the <a href="http://www.octopusbooks.co.uk/books/food-and-drink/9781845337247/ginger-pig-farmhouse-cook-book/" target="_blank"><em>Farmhouse Cook Book</em></a>. &#8220;Innovation is awesome and brilliant, but there&#8217;s also a dark side,&#8221; Swift said. &#8220;That&#8217;s the history of ham.&#8221;</p>
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		<title>The Best Way to Handle the Coming Cicada Invasion? Heat Up the Deep Fryer</title>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Apr 2013 14:10:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Twilight Greenaway</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Cooking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[In the News]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Memorable meals]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/?p=14522</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[For 17 years, these insects have been lurking, waiting to return, so here are some suggestions to eat your way through the infestation]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-14525" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/cicadas_lara_warman_470.jpg" alt="" width="0" height="0" /></p>
<div id="attachment_14524" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14524 " src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/cicadas_lara_warman_575.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="298" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Cicada pupa are fried and served on a stick in China. Creative Commons photo by Lara Warman.</p></div>
<p>No one knows exactly when they’ll come out of hiding, but if you live on the East Coast – anywhere form North Carolina to Connecticut, to be precise – you might start thinking about the brood of cicadas scheduled to make an appearance this spring.</p>
<p>Yes they’ll be loud and inconvenient, but they’ll also be a free, plentiful source of protein (and one that’s not generated in a factory farm).</p>
<p>Here’s what you should know about foraging and eating this extremely rare food.</p>
<p>1) First off, don’t pick up or eat dead cicadas. Gathering live ones shouldn’t be very hard, especially if you pick them up “early in the morning when the dew is still on the ground and the cicadas are still drowsy,” says <a href="http://reneeriley.wordpress.com/2011/09/12/fried-cicadas-lets-get-cooking-china/">one expert</a>. The easiest way to kill them is by placing them in the freezer.</p>
<p>2) Gather twice as many as you and your family think you can eat. Van Smith, who <a href="http://www2.citypaper.com/story.asp?id=7478">wrote about his experiments eating cicadas</a> for Baltimore City Paper, explains why:  “Females are preferable for their protein-filled abdomens, while males offer little substance. When hunting them, though, I found it nearly impossible to tell the difference&#8211;until cooking, when the males&#8217; bodies shrivel up. Marinating live bugs in Worcestershire sauce also helps weed out guys (the vinegar in the sauce slow-cooks them, so they start to collapse) while tenderizing the ladies.”</p>
<p>3) Think of them like “land shellfish.” Like shrimp, lobster and crabs, cicadas are <del>anthropods</del> arthropods. Gaye L. Williams, an entomologist from the Maryland Department of Agriculture <a href="http://www.baltimoresun.com/features/bal-artslife-cicada-cuisine,0,6719544.story">told the Baltimore Sun</a>: “They&#8217;re in the same animal group as shrimp and crabs, and people don&#8217;t think twice about that.&#8221; (If you&#8217;re allergic to shellfish, exercise caution when experimenting with cicadas).</p>
<p>4) Like many things, cicadas taste best fried. Here’s a <a href="http://www.cdkitchen.com/recipes/recs/146/Fried_SoftShelled_Cicadas54730.shtml">simple recipe</a> that only requires living cicadas, flour, eggs, salt, pepper, and oil. If they’re newly hatched, you can fry them as-is, but after they’ve been alive for several hours (or few days), their wings and legs might need to be removed, as <a href="http://deep-fried.food.com/recipe/a-tasty-treat-of-cicadas-90758">this recipe for deep dried cicadas calls for</a>. In Asia it’s not unusual to find the pupa, or young cicadas fried and served on a stick <a href="http://img.timeinc.net/time/daily/2011/1106/360_cicada_0620.jpg">like this</a>.</p>
<p>Kirk Moore, who calls himself the “Cicada Chef” also recommends marinating them overnight in Worcestershire sauce in this <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&amp;v=j6oQaCZfag4">YouTube video</a> from 2004.</p>
<p>5) Dry roasting them – on a cookie sheet at a low heat &#8212; is another popular approach. If they get too crispy to eat as-is, they can be crumbled to add crunch to a dish or even ground into a high-protein (gluten free!) flour.</p>
<p>6) Young cicadas <a href="http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Spicy-Boiled-Crabs-Shrimp-Potatoes-Corn-and-Garlic-12397">can also be used in a “low country boil”  or a “spice boil”</a> in place of shrimp.</p>
<p>7) Have leftovers, go fishing! Cicadas are rumored to make excellent fish bait.</p>
<p><strong>Bonus video:</strong></p>
<p><object width="600" height="338" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="src" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Tqt7vXBQuCQ?hl=en_US&amp;version=3" /><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><embed width="600" height="338" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Tqt7vXBQuCQ?hl=en_US&amp;version=3" allowFullScreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" /></object></p>
<p><em>Editor&#8217;s Note, April 15, 2013: </em>Entomologist John Cooley of the University of Connecticut chimes in with a note of caution: &#8220;We actually try to discourage eating cicadas. There&#8217;s a body of literature showing that periodical cicadas are mercury bioaccumulators and some can have relatively high mercury levels.&#8221;</p>
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		<title>Five Ways to Cook With Chia Seeds</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 08 Apr 2013 14:21:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Marina Koren</dc:creator>
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		<category><![CDATA[chia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chia Pet]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chia seeds]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/?p=14499</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The nutty-flavored seeds responsible for Chia Pets provide a nutrient boost to smoothies, burgers and soups]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-14504" title="chia-seeds-thumb" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/chia-seeds-thumb.jpg" alt="Chia seeds" width="0" height="0" /></p>
<div id="attachment_14502" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 600px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14502" title="chia-seeds-600" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/chia-seeds-600.jpg" alt="Chia seeds" width="600" height="450" /><p class="wp-caption-text"><em>Combining chia seeds, a nutrient-rich food naive to Mexico and Central America, with water creates a gel-like mixture. Photo courtesy of Flickr user <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/graibeard/4177919957/in/photostream/" target="_blank">graibeard</a>.</em></p></div>
<p>Chia seeds are <a href="http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2119770/Chia-seeds-Latest-superfood-craze-taken-US-storm-heading-Britain.html" target="_blank">gaining a reputation</a> as a superfood, joining the ranks of açaí, pomegranate, goji berry and the most recent <a href="http://www.prevention.com/food/healthy-eating-tips/quinoa-superfood-2013" target="_blank">favorite</a>, quinoa (the United Nations dubbed this year <a href="http://www.un.org/apps/news/story.asp?NewsID=44184#.UWLSKxl1E5E">the International Year of Quinoa</a>.) But unlike its health food brethren, which few knew of before they became ubiquitous, the ingredient once enjoyed some unusual success outside the kitchen: it gave life to <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzY7qQFij_M" target="_blank">Chia Pets</a>, ceramic turtles, cows, pigs and other creatures that sprouted plant-hair and sat atop living room tables across America in the 1990s.</p>
<p><object width="600" height="450" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="src" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/tzY7qQFij_M?version=3&amp;hl=en_US" /><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><embed width="600" height="450" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/tzY7qQFij_M?version=3&amp;hl=en_US" allowFullScreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" /></object></p>
<p>Chia, a flowering plant in the mint family known as <em>Salvia hispanica</em>, is native to central and southern Mexico and Guatemala. Domesticated in 2,600 B.C., the seed is said to have been a <a href="http://voices.yahoo.com/chia-seeds-ancient-super-food-todays-health-329631.html?cat=5">staple of the Aztec and Mayan diet</a>. The <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Born-Run-Hidden-Superathletes-Greatest/dp/0307279189" target="_blank">Tarahumara</a> of Mexico, famous for their <a href="http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2008/11/tarahumara-people/gorney-text">incredible endurance running</a>, consume a blend of maize and chia seeds while pounding the desert sand.</p>
<p>At just 65 calories <a href="http://www.livestrong.com/article/316834-calories-in-one-tablespoon-of-chia-seeds/">per tablespoon</a>, chia seeds are rich in protein, fiber, antioxidants and omega-3 fatty acids. The seeds transform water into a gooey, gelatin-like mixture one can drink (slowly) straight out of the glass. Their unassuming mild, nutty flavor can <a href="http://www.chiaseedrecipes.com/40-ways-to-use-chia-seeds.php">disappear into countless different dishes</a>, from <a href="http://paintboxkitchen.com/2012/03/21/blueberry-chia-seed-pancakes/">pancakes</a> and <a href="http://gardencuizine.com/2011/09/reduced-salt-and-fat-instant-chia.html">mashed potatoes</a> to barbecue sauce and <a href="http://www.chiaseedrecipes.com/chia-fruit-jello.php">Jell-O</a>. Here are five ways to cook with chia seeds that go beyond breading and salad garnishes.</p>
<p><strong>Smoothies</strong>. Chia seeds can be ground down into a fine powder in a blender. Now a nearly invisible ingredient, chia powder can be swirled around with countless combinations of fruits, veggies and syrups. <a href="http://allrecipes.com/Recipe/Blueberry-Mango-Smoothie/Detail.aspx">This recipe</a> pulverizes the seeds with yogurt, blueberries, mangoes and vanilla extract for a tropical shake, while <a href="http://presleyspantry.com/2013/02/19/strawberry-apple-chia-seed-smoothie/">this one</a> blends them with strawberries and apple juice for a quick breakfast beverage. For a brightly colored shake that tastes better than it looks, <a href="http://joythebaker.com/2013/01/spinach-kiwi-chia-seed-smoothie/">combine baby spinach leaves</a>, chunks of kiwi, almond milk and a frozen banana and blend till smooth. Toss a few tablespoons of seeds with peanut butter, frozen bananas, chocolate-flavored coffee creamer, cocoa powder and milk to create a <a href="http://nutritionfor.us/2013/02/chocolate-peanut-butter-chia-seed-smoothie/">rich dessert smoothie</a>. If the mix is too thick, add milk until it thins out.<strong><br />
</strong></p>
<p><strong>Pudding.</strong> Some drink chia seeds straight with water, but if the gooeyness minus the flavor is too much for you, try pudding. <a href="http://allrecipes.com/Recipe/Chocolate-Chia-Seed-Pudding/Detail.aspx">Fold chia seeds into a mixture</a> of cocoa powder, brown sugar, instant coffee and milk and stick them in the fridge for two hours to create decadent chocolate pudding. Combine the seeds with milk, sugar and vanilla extract and refrigerate overnight for a <a href="http://allrecipes.com/Recipe/Chia-Pudding/Detail.aspx">tapioca-like treat</a>, sprinkling it with shredded coconut. For a <a href="http://allrecipes.com/Recipe/Chia-Breakfast-Pudding/Detail.aspx">breakfast pudding</a>, toss water-soaked cashews with maple syrup, vanilla extract and chia seeds until smooth. Refrigerate eight hours or all night, and or top with dried or fresh fruit.</p>
<p><strong>Breads.</strong> When chia seeds absorb water<strong>,</strong> they create a gelatinous mixture that can replace eggs, oil and butter in baking. In <a href="http://amandakbythebay.blogspot.com/2012/10/pumpkin-bread-with-chia-seeds-no-butter.html">this recipe for pumpkin bread</a>, chia gel takes on the role of butter and oil. Blend it with sugar, eggs and pumpkin puree. In another bowl, sift together flour, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, baking soda, baking powder and salt. Stir the pumpkin mixture in gradually, then fold in chopped walnuts for crunchiness. Spread the batter out into a pan and bake for an hour at 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Once it’s transformed into a spongy loaf and cooled, smear with a sweet glaze of cream cheese, powdered sugar, milk and vanilla extract. Swap pumpkin puree for bananas for <a href="http://www.shape.com/healthy-eating/meal-ideas/quick-and-easy-chia-seed-recipes?page=3">classic banana bread</a>.</p>
<p><strong>Burgers. </strong>For an extra protein kick at the picnic table, use chia seeds in <a href="http://www.food.com/recipe/circus-burgers-with-lean-ground-beef-and-chia-seeds-432986">homemade burger patties</a> as a binding agent. Stir them in water to create a thick gel-like mixture. Saute chopped onion with olive oil in a pan until it begins to caramelize, then add minced garlic. In a bowl, combine them with ground meat, grated carrots, seasonings and the chia seed mixture. Using a large spoon or glove hands, mold the mix into 4-inch patties that are about half an inch thick and freeze them for an hour. Then, toss them on the grill, letting them sizzle for three minutes on each side.</p>
<p><strong>Soups. </strong>Water-laden chia seeds can help thicken soup for a hearty comfort meal. For <a href="http://www.chiaseedrecipes.com/quick-and-easy-cauliflower-chia-soup.php">creamy cauliflower soup</a>, boil chopped onion, cauliflower and vegetable stock. Ladle out half of the broth and stir in ground chia seeds. Return the mix to the pot and continue cooking. Garnish the soup with chopped parsley and black pepper, and serve with a crunchy slice of bread.</p>
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		<title>Kolaches: The Next Big Thing in Pastries and The Tex-Czech Community Behind Them</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/food/~3/1FS-3vYAFek/</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 05 Apr 2013 16:27:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Leah Binkovitz</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[American food]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/?p=14475</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Rural Czech communities in Texas have been enjoying the buttery pastry for more than a century, now homesick Texans bring kolaches to the rest of us]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-14479" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/Kolache-Krop_Thumb.jpg" alt="" width="0" height="0" /></p>
<div id="attachment_14477" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 575px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14477" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/04/Kolache-Krop.jpg" alt="" width="575" height="431" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Doughy goodness is impossible to resist. Photo by Dawn Orsak</p></div>
<p>Despite <a title="New York Times" href="http://www.nytimes.com/2013/01/16/us/politics/texas-secession-movement-unbowed-by-white-house-rejection.html?_r=0" target="_blank">recent flirtations</a> with secession and even being accidentally<a title="ThinkProgress" href="http://thinkprogress.org/politics/2009/04/17/37630/state-department-texas/?mobile=nc" target="_blank"> listed</a> as a foreign destination by the State Department, Texas is not its own country. The Republic of Texas <a href="http://www.tshaonline.org/handbook/online/articles/mga02">may have dissolved in 1845</a>, but the Czech Republic of Texas is doing better than ever, thanks to a surge in interest in Tex-Czech&#8217;s <a title="Houston Chronicle" href="http://http://www.chron.com/life/food/article/Meet-the-21st-century-kolache-4233482.php" target="_blank">most beloved</a> dish: kolaches.</p>
<p>The doughy pastry came over with a wave of <a title="Texas State Historical Society" href="http://www.tshaonline.org/handbook/online/articles/plc02" target="_blank">Czech migration</a> in the late 19th century and found a happy home in the rural communities  like <a title="Wikipedia" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/West,_Texas" target="_blank">West, Texas</a> (a town of fewer than 3,000 people but which serves as a touchstone for Czech culture in the region) and others at the heart of the state, sometimes called the <a title="Lone Star Travel Guide to Central Texas" href="http://books.google.com/books?id=GlSRGX_6JcsC&amp;pg=PA400&amp;lpg=PA400&amp;dq=czech+belt+texas&amp;source=bl&amp;ots=YV7V4YEZjB&amp;sig=O_eJDS2JE1nkm2xeaspI0oWqFHk&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=IMVeUaLIHMjo0gGZlYDQBw&amp;ved=0CDsQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&amp;q=czech%20belt%20texas&amp;f=false" target="_blank">Czech Belt</a>. For the most part, the culture settled in quietly. Unlike other urban centers in Midwestern cities <a title="American Midwest" href="http://books.google.com/books?id=n3Xn7jMx1RYC&amp;pg=PA234&amp;lpg=PA234&amp;dq=czechs+in+midwest&amp;source=bl&amp;ots=gGooyEuR7m&amp;sig=JOcAqdKsCZ_snbMTWZn8Sgf3MoQ&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=f8VeUd3NIoj00gHq2oDADA&amp;ved=0CDoQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&amp;q=czechs%20in%20midwest&amp;f=false" target="_blank">including</a> Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Louis, rural Czech families maintained relatively traditional dialects and recipes.</p>
<p>&#8220;The dialect of Czech spoken here is very old-fashioned. It&#8217;s from 100 years ago and people are always amazed to hear it and I think the food is the same way,&#8221; explains Austin-based food blogger Dawn Orsak. From her blog, <a title="Blogspot" href="http://svacinaproject.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Svačina Project</a>, Orsak honors her Czech grandmother and chronicles her many adventures with kolaches, from judging to baking.</p>
<p>In the Czech Republic, kolaches come in two varieties: dense wedding kolaches that are formed in circles or <em>frgale</em>, which Orsak describes almost like a pizza, and covered in toppings. In Texas, you&#8217;ll find both the wedding kolaches and rectangular options with lighter, more bread-like dough. Since coming to the States, kolaches have added a few flavors (you would never find a kolache with meat in the Czech Republic, for example), including one of Orsak&#8217;s favorites: sauerkraut. Based off recipes that once used sweetened cabbage filling, sauerkraut kolaches arose only after coming to Texas. Though sauerkraut is now part of the Tex-Czech canon, other flavors still haven&#8217;t found complete acceptance within the community.</p>
<p>As big companies inside Texas capitalize on the kolache-trend, Orsak says it inspires her even more to find out about the roots of the food and to get it right. &#8220;My friend Laurie and I take pictures of the most bizarre fillings we can find and email them to each other with a subject line that says &#8216;Eww.&#8217;&#8221; She remembers one in particular, &#8220;There&#8217;s a place that makes a cream cheese kolache that has one of those mini Hershey&#8217;s bars stuck in the center, it sort of melts in there. I laugh because I am biased.&#8221; While she&#8217;s open to trying these new takes on the Czech dish, she says she can&#8217;t stand when big companies use gelatinous fruit fillings or get the dough wrong.</p>
<p>And she doesn&#8217;t seem to be alone in wanting to celebrate the century of Czech tradition in Texas. As a judge at the 2011 <a title="Kolache Festival" href="http://www.caldwelltx.gov/index.php?page_name=Quality%20of%20Life&amp;page_id=76&amp;id=67" target="_blank">Kolache Festival</a> in Caldwell, Texas, she says she was heartened by the number of young people entering the contest.</p>
<p>Her first taste of the pastry, traditionally filled with dried fruits or cheese, was in her grandmother&#8217;s kitchen on special occasions. Nowadays, Texans can grab the treat from bakeries and even gas stations on a whim. For the most part, says Orsak, these varieties aren&#8217;t true to the Tex-Czech roots of the pastry. The big three <strong></strong>traditional kolache flavors are prune, apricot and cheese. But at these combination bakery-gas stations, you&#8217;ll often find savory buns with meats and even vegetables.</p>
<p>&#8220;It&#8217;s funny, there&#8217;s a company in Austin called Lone Star Kolaches that now has like four locations and they don&#8217;t even sell prune,&#8221; she says. &#8220;I asked about it a couple weeks ago and they said, we don&#8217;t sell that, which I was really surprised about.&#8221;</p>
<p>But when Texans find themselves outside the warm, buttery embrace of the Czech Belt, they <a title="Pittsburgh Business Times" href="http://www.bizjournals.com/pittsburgh/blog/energy/2013/03/kolachesmarcellushappy-texans.html" target="_blank">crave</a> everything from the sweet stuff to the less conventional and their demands are helping spread the dish, from <a title="Pittsburgh Business Times" href="http://www.bizjournals.com/pittsburgh/blog/energy/2013/03/kolachesmarcellushappy-texans.html" target="_blank">Pittsburgh</a> to D.C.</p>
<p>In February, Shana Teehan, spokeswoman for Rep. <a href="http://www.rollcall.com/members/465.html">Kevin Brady</a> from Texas, <a title="Roll Call" href="http://www.rollcall.com/news/noshtalgia_hunting_the_elusive_kolache-222254-1.html?pg=1" target="_blank">begged</a> Roll Call writer Warren Rojas to find her some kolaches in the nation&#8217;s capital. &#8220;I’ve never had a flavor I didn’t like,&#8221; she told him, &#8220;whether it was a sweet, fruit-filled bun, or a savory option filled with sausage, cheese or peppers.&#8221;</p>
<p>Czech cuisine also enjoys some fame for its influence on Texas barbecue, which <a title="Eatocracy" href="http://eatocracy.cnn.com/2012/07/05/barbecue-digest-a-fraternal-bond-in-barbecue/" target="_blank">owes</a> a lot to Czech and German smoked meats. In fact, the most common place to find Czech food–other than at a bakery–is at a meat market or barbecue.</p>
<p>All of this is helping bring the food of the Tex-Czech community, most visible at festivals and bake-offs but largely tucked away in rural kitchens, onto a wider stage. From a new bakery in Brooklyn, New York to hungry politicians in D.C., kolaches may be ready for their close-up.</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Orsak offers up her favorite recipes <a title="Blogspot" href="http://svacinaproject.blogspot.com/2012/11/peach-pear-poppy-prune-pecan.html" target="_blank">here</a>.</p>
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		<title>Five Ways to Cook with Peeps</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/food/~3/Crutxg-5L2I/</link>
		<comments>http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/03/five-ways-to-cook-with-peeps/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2013 13:22:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Marina Koren</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[American food]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[marshmallow]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/?p=14429</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[From brownies and milkshakes to casseroles and salads, Easter's favorite marshmallow can go a long way in the kitchen]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-14432" title="cooking-with-peeps-thumb" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/03/cooking-with-peeps-thumb.jpg" alt="Peeps" width="0" height="0" /></p>
<div id="attachment_14430" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 600px"><img class="size-full wp-image-14430" title="cooking-with-peeps-600" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/03/cooking-with-peeps-600.jpg" alt="Peeps" width="600" height="450" /><p class="wp-caption-text"><em>An estimated 2 million Peeps are produced each year. Many find homes in Easter baskets, but some are incorporated into drinks and desserts. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tanya_dawn/2349312222/" target="_blank">Photo courtesy of Flickr user Tanya Dawn.</a></em></p></div>
<p>Nothing screams Easter like the arrival of brightly colored marshmallow Peeps snuggled inside crinkly packaging at the grocery store. For many people, the sweet is meant to be hidden: some stuff them into plastic eggs hidden in the backyard for their kids to find, while <a href="http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2011/04/dont-be-ashamed-of-loving-marshmallow-peeps/237747/" target="_blank">others tuck them away</a> in desk drawers at the office to satisfy late afternoon hunger pangs. But for one distinct group, marshmallow chicks and bunnies are stuffed (and baked and blended and broiled) into otherwise Peep-less recipes in the kitchen. Thanks to the massive proliferation of food blogs in recent years, we can witness the surprising culinary places a few of the <a href="http://www.nydailynews.com/life-style/eats/sneak-peek-peeps-factory-sweet-easter-treat-turns-60-article-1.1299590" target="_blank">2 billion Peeps produced each year</a> end up. Here are five ways to cook with these <a href="http://www.shape.com/healthy-eating/diet-tips/ask-diet-doctor-anatomy-peep" target="_blank">sugar-laden</a> holiday staples, which Bethlehem, Pennsylvania-based company <a href="http://www.justborn.com/" target="_blank">Just Born</a> has <a href="http://www.chicagotribune.com/features/peeps/sns-peep-factory-pg,0,792513.photogallery" target="_blank">manufactured</a> for 60 years.</p>
<p><strong>Bake them. </strong>Because Peeps are essentially colorful marshmallows, they won’t seem out of place in dessert recipes. <a href="http://www.peepresearch.org/heat.html">Exposed to high heat</a>, Peeps melt back into their native state, a pool of sugary liquid fluff. They’re worthy substitutes for plain marshmallows in brownies, cookies, pies—even bread. For <a href="http://www.babble.com/best-recipes/peep-stuffed-brownies/" target="_blank">hearty Peep-stuffed brownies</a>, start with a regular boxed mix of the bake-sale classic, following the package directions to create the gooey batter. Spread a portion of it out onto a pan, pressing Peeps of the color of your choosing into the mixture. Layering the remaining brownie mix on top to hide the chicks, and dust some Peep powder on top for decoration once you’re done baking.</p>
<p>Try squishing a Peep between two globs of cookie dough, sculpting the batter into round, slightly raised shapes, and bake according to your usual cookie recipe (<a href="http://www.foxnews.com/recipe/ooey-gooey-peep-stuffed-cookies#ixzz2OtlU9niV" target="_blank">this one recommends folding a pretzel</a> into the dough along with the Peep for added crunch). Or use chick or bunny Peeps as <a href="http://www.food.com/recipe/marshmallow-peeps-pie-497862" target="_blank">pie filling</a>. Melt the candies in hot milk and let them cool before folding in heavy whipping cream and chopped or bite-size chocolate candies (semisweet chocolate chips, Reese’s Pieces or tiny chunks of toffee). Pour the thoroughly mixed batter into a store-bought or homemade pie crust and leave in the refrigerator overnight.</p>
<p>The Peep flavor can also <a href="http://www.theknead4speed.com/2011/04/easter-egg-hunting-and-marshmallow-peeps-monkey-bread/" target="_blank">be infused into breakfast desserts</a>, like the sticky and gooey <a href="http://allrecipes.com/recipe/monkey-bread-i/" target="_blank">monkey bread</a>. Dip buttermilk biscuits into a smoothly whisked mixture of microwave-melted Peeps, butter and vanilla extract. Roll the biscuits in sugar dyed with food coloring to match the color of the Peeps, and stack and mold them into a bundt cake shape after they&#8217;re baked and golden brown.</p>
<p><strong>And bake them some more.</strong> Not all casserole recipes are a match for Peeps (think tuna or cheesy macaroni), but less savory kinds, like those made with sweet potatoes, <a href="http://afridgefulloffood.typepad.com/my_weblog/2011/04/easter-more-than-one-way-to-eat-a-peep.html" target="_blank">welcome a hint of marshmallow</a>. Bake chick-shaped Peeps atop a batter of boiled and mashed sweet potatoes, milk, brown sugar, cardamom and cinnamon, letting some of the toasted marshmallow flavor seep into the casserole. Or swap standard marshmallow topping for slightly browned Peeps in <a href="http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/sandra-lee/candied-yam-souffle-recipe/index.html">this recipe for candied yam soufflé</a>.</p>
<p><strong>Toss them. </strong>We don’t recommend pairing Peeps with arugula, baby spinach and crumbled feta—tossing them with sweet and citrusy fruits produces better results. <a href="http://www.peephut.org/peeprecipes.html">This recipe</a> takes a spin on the Waldorf salad, a blend of apples, celery, walnuts and mayonnaise popularized in the early 1900s at a New York City hotel of the same name. Use pink or yellow Peeps for this one—flashes of electric blue in the middle of a salad might be alarming. Pair them with diced bananas, chopped oranges, halved maraschino cherries and work in shredded coconut and your choice of nuts. Drizzle fresh lemon juice and orange-flavor liqueur on top, mixing the entire batch well before serving.</p>
<p>Peeps can <a href="http://www.peephut.org/peeprecipes.html" target="_blank">replace regular miniature marshmallows</a> in ambrosia salad, another <a href="http://www.cooks.com/rec/view/0,1843,145178-239195,00.html" target="_blank">well-known fruit concoction</a>. Chop pastel-colored chicks or bunnies into the size of the average miniature marshmallow. Add them to a bowl of pineapple chunks, diced mandarin oranges and shredded coconut, and then stir in a generous helping of Cool Whip.</p>
<p><strong>Blend them.</strong> Peeps’ soft texture makes them prime candidates for electric mixers. Combine chocolate mousse-flavored Peeps with milk, sour cream and vanilla ice cream in a blender for a <a href="http://www.abc15.com/dpp/lifestyle/food/peeps-recipe-ideas-cake-shakes-and-smores">chocolatey shake</a>. For a hint of toasted flavor, broil the chicks for one or two minutes until lightly charred before tossing them into the blender. <a href="http://foodbeast.com/content/2012/04/03/peeps-filled-cupcakes-with-marshmallow-peeps-frosting/">Make Peep-flavored frosting</a> by heating your choice of Peeps with egg whites, sugar and water in a saucepan. Beat the batter with a hand mixer until it <a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Frosting">gains some thickness</a>, then spread it over cupcakes. Feeling fancy? Transform Peeps into <a href="http://therunawayspoon.com/blog/2011/04/peep-mousse/">unusually colorful mousse</a>. Melt Peeps with heavy whipping cream in a saucepan, then zest off some sugar from still-intact chicks onto the sugary mix once it’s cooled.</p>
<p><strong> Freeze them.</strong> Peeps don’t always have to be melted down beyond recognition in the kitchen. The marshmallow candies can also make for tasty frozen desserts, <a href="http://www.food.com/recipe/peepsickles-295246" target="_blank">which this recipe dubs “peepsicles.”</a> Press wooden craft sticks into bunny-shaped Peeps and submerge them into a bowl of melted chocolate. Coat the peepsicles with shredded coconut, slivered nuts or sprinkles and store them in the freezer. Move beyond the obvious with <a href="http://www.endlesssimmer.com/2011/04/18/peeps-ceviche/">this recipe for ceviche</a>, a marinated seafood dish usually served raw and cold. Soak frozen bits of Peep in lime juice, dried chili peppers, fresh strawberries and dark chocolate, and dig in before they thaw and all the juices break them down. Peeps get very crunchy in less than zero temperatures, and really frozen ones (well, those <a href="http://www.peepresearch.org/nitrogen.html">submerged in a bucket of liquid nitrogen</a>) easily shatter.</p>
<p>When cooking with Peeps, remember that, just like fruits and vegetables, they&#8217;re seasonal,<a href="http://www.justborn.com/get-to-know-us/faqs#Can%20I%20get%20PEEPS%C2%AE%20year-round?"> available only</a> around Valentine&#8217;s Day, Easter, Halloween and Christmas. However, the marshmallows have an <a href="http://shine.yahoo.com/shine-food/peep-this-6-fun-facts-about-everyones-favorite-marshmallow-chick-1226889.html" target="_blank">astonishing shelf life of two years</a>, so finding a forgotten pack of five in the pantry can be a sweet (albeit slightly stale) surprise.</p>
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		<title>On the Menu This Easter in Newfoundland: Seal Flipper Pie</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/food/~3/-JK0C47CxME/</link>
		<comments>http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/03/on-the-menu-this-easter-in-newfoundland-seal-flipper-pie/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 27 Mar 2013 13:39:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>K. Annabelle Smith</dc:creator>
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		<category><![CDATA[Seal Flipper Pie]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/?p=14301</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This breaded pie made from seals has been consumed during the Lenten season since 1555]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/03/flipper-pie-supermarket-tmb1.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-14409" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/03/flipper-pie-supermarket-tmb1.jpg" alt="" width="0" height="0" /></a></p>
<div id="attachment_14405" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 600px"><a href="http://meetmeinthedrawingroom.wordpress.com/tag/kilkenny-krew/"><img class="size-full wp-image-14405 " src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/03/flipper-pie-supermarket-600.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Photo by Kathleen Reckling. “Provisions were needed for tomorrow’s long drive to Springdale and were found at Bidgoods, just south of St. John’s in Goulds. Some local specialties, like seal flipper pie and caribou stew, were passed over while others, such as frozen partridge berries, made our mouths water…”</p></div>
<p><span style="font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;">In Newfoundland, having a &#8220;scoff&#8221; (the local word for &#8220;big meal&#8221;) includes some pretty interesting food items unique to the region: </span><span style="font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/17/FishAndBrewisWithScrunchions.jpg" target="_blank">scrunchions (fried pork fat)</a>, <a href="http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/02/7e/ed/58/cod-tongues-garlic-aioli.jpg" target="_blank">cod tongues</a> and fishcakes, for example. But perhaps the least appetizing dish, which is traditionally made during the Lenten season—specifically on Good Friday and Easter—is <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/__3SI3cdHhZo/S2PfU-2vZLI/AAAAAAAAD70/6VuvMCvKfuw/s1600-h/Seal-Flipper-Pie-1%5B2%5D.jpg" target="_blank">seal flipper pie</a>. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;">The meal, which originated in the Canadian provinces of Newfoundland and Labrador, tastes as strange as it sounds. The meat is dark, tough, gamey and apparently has <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=H6pIinfPtnQC&amp;pg=PA170&amp;dq=seal+flipper+meat&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=G9NQUe2bPOKWywGmjYC4Aw&amp;ved=0CDgQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&amp;q=seal%20flipper%20meat&amp;f=false" target="_blank">a flavor similar to that of hare</a> (appropriate for America&#8217;s favorite Easter mascot, no?). </span><span style="font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;"><a href="http://www.codenewfie.com/food/seal-flipper-pie" target="_blank">Most recipes</a> suggest that the seal meat is coated in flour, pan-fried and then roasted with onions, pork fat and root vegetables like carrots, turnips, potatoes and parsnips. Once the dish has a nice, flaky crust, it is often served with a side of Worcestershire sauce.</span><span style="font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;"> </span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;">While it might be difficult to imagine eating a meal made from something as <a href="http://www.smithsonianmag.com/science-nature/Photojournalist-Brian-Skerrys-Amazing-View-of-the-Beasts-of-the-Oceans-168761746.html" target="_blank">cute and cuddly as a seal,</a> the dish has <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=H6pIinfPtnQC&amp;pg=PA170&amp;dq=seal+flipper+pie&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=Qt5NUZSBCsKRiQLmooHgAQ&amp;ved=0CEIQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&amp;q=seal%20flipper%20pie&amp;f=false" target="_blank">a history based in survival</a>. Seals were especially important to Inuit living on the northern shores of Labrador and Newfoundland dating back to the early 18th century when seal meat, which is high in fat protein and vitamin A, was a staple in the early Arctic-dweller&#8217;s diet and often prevented explorers from starving or getting scurvy during their hunting travels. (Some Antarctic expeditions like <a href="http://www.smithsonianmag.com/history-archaeology/Reliving-Shackletons-Epic-Endurance-Expedition.html" target="_blank">Ernest Shackleton&#8217;s Ross Sea party</a> suffered from scurvy for lack of vitamins found in seal meat). S</span><span style="font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;">eal hunters used all parts of the seal from their pelts to their fat to light lamps (at one time, <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=1VE7AQAAIAAJ&amp;pg=PA72&amp;lpg=PA72&amp;dq=london+street+lamps+AND+seal+oil&amp;source=bl&amp;ots=CdxURaJa07&amp;sig=WDTFgeR9_CqEILx9CDGmX6R-i14&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=PppRUdy-OMP7yAGds4C4AQ&amp;ved=0CEMQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&amp;q=london%20street%20lamps%20AND%20seal%20oil&amp;f=false" target="_blank">London&#8217;s street lights were fueled with seal oil</a>), but they couldn&#8217;t profit off of the flippers. To save money and to use as much of the animal as possible, they made flipper pie. As the hunting industry grew, seal meat became a major resource for oil, leather and food for locals after the long, harsh winter in these regions. <strong></strong></span></p>
<p>Because the seal hunt takes place in the spring when the mammals are found near the edge of the ice floes—lasting from mid-March through April—the meat of the animal is most often eaten during the Easter season. But why does seal meat count as &#8220;fish&#8221; during Lent? According to <span style="font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;"><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=snsXlPgW7JYC&amp;pg=PA525&amp;dq=Olaus+Magnus+AND+seal+meat&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=owJKUcu8NpCWjAKZioGQAw&amp;ved=0CDgQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&amp;q=Olaus%20Magnus%20AND%20seal%20meat&amp;f=false" target="_blank"><em>The Northern Isles: Orkney And Shetland</em> by Alexander Fenton,</a> the meat was deemed Lent-friendly by the Catholic Church as early as the mid 16th century by Olaus Magnus (1490-1557), a Swedish patriot and influential Catholic ecclesiastic:</span></p>
<blockquote><p>The people of Burrafirth in Unst sold the skins of seals they caught, and salted the meat for eating at Lent. Olaus Magnus noted in Sweden in 1555 that seal-flesh was regarded by the church in Sweden, though eventually the eating of seal-meat on fast days was forbidden in Norway. Later in time, the eating of seal-flesh went down in the world, and was confined to poorer people, the flesh being salted and hung in the chimneys to be smoked.</p></blockquote>
<p><span style="font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;">By the 1840s—at the apex of the sealing industry in Newfoundland—<a href="http://www.heritage.nf.ca/society/sail_seal.html" target="_blank">546,000 seals were killed annually</a> and seal oil represented </span><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=H6pIinfPtnQC&amp;pg=PA170&amp;dq=seal+flipper+pie&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=OQVKUe26OonoiQL3xoCQDw&amp;ved=0CDwQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&amp;q=seal%20flipper%20pie&amp;f=false">84 percent</a><span style="font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;"> of the value of seal products sold. Since then,<a href="http://www.thecanadianencyclopedia.com/articles/sealing" target="_blank"> a commercial seal hunt has taken place annually</a> off Canada&#8217;s East Coast and in the Gulf of Saint Lawrence. Today, the seal hunting season provides more than <a href="http://www.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/fm-gp/seal-phoque/myth-eng.htm" target="_blank">6,000 jobs</a> to fishermen and vastly supplements the region&#8217;s economy. </span></p>
<p><span>And that&#8217;s not to say that the annual seal hunt hasn&#8217;t generated some controversy. The practice has been criticized by plenty of animal rights activist groups over the years including People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA). Though, the organization has received its fair share of flack from Newfoundland locals (</span><a href="http://www.ctvnews.ca/peta-protester-hit-with-pie-outside-n-l-hotel-1.478904" target="_blank">in 2010, a protester dressed as a seal was &#8220;pied&#8221; in the face</a><span> by a man wearing a dog suit).</span></p>
<p><span>In 2006, <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qrtdcz6ugU" target="_blank">in a live interview with Larry King on CNN,</a> Sir Paul McCartney had a few things to say to Danny Williams, the ninth </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Premier_of_Newfoundland_and_Labrador" target="_blank">premier</a><span> of Newfoundland and Labrador about the seal hunt: &#8220;It isn&#8217;t hunky dory, <a href="http://transcripts.cnn.com/TRANSCRIPTS/0603/03/lkl.01.html" target="_blank">it&#8217;s disgraceful</a>.&#8221; Williams maintained that seal hunting is a sustainable resource for Newfoundland. </span></p>
<p>The seals hunted in Newfoundland and Labrador are <a href="http://www.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/fm-gp/seal-phoque/myth-eng.htm" target="_blank">not officially endangered</a> according to the <a title="International Union for Conservation of Nature" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Union_for_Conservation_of_Nature" target="_blank">International Union for Conservation of Nature</a>. (Though the IUCN considers other species of seal including the Hawaiian Monk Seal and the Mediterranean Monk Seal to be &#8220;critically endangered.&#8221;) According to the region&#8217;s Department of Fisheries and Aquaculture, the harp seal population has tripled since 1970 and the total currently stands at <a href="http://www.fishaq.gov.nl.ca/sealing/index.html" target="_blank">5.6 million animals.</a></p>
<p><span>The hunt is closely regulated by </span><a title="Fisheries and Oceans Canada" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fisheries_and_Oceans_Canada">the Canadian Department of Fisheries and Oceans</a><span> (DFO) with quotas and </span><a href="http://www.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/decisions/fm-2012-gp/atl-006-eng.htm" target="_blank">specific rules regarding the method of killing the mammals</a><span>. </span><span>Last season, </span><a href="http://www.thetelegram.com/News/Local/2012-04-19/article-2958523/Fine-dining-on-flipper-%26mdash%3B-for-a-cause/1" target="_blank"><em>The Telegram</em>, a Canadian newspaper, published an article</a><span> about a fundraiser for a local sealer organization that commemorates those Newfoundlanders and Labradorians who lost their lives in the <a href="http://www.homefromthesea.ca/1914-sealing-disasters" target="_blank">1914 sealing disasters</a>. Seal meat was the featured item on the menu—something many locals argue is the most sustainable protein in the region. (You can watch one of the staff reporters try flipper pie for the first time </span><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUGK_e4EGFg" target="_blank">here</a><span>).</span></p>
<p><span>Despite arguments against the commercial selling of seal products, a certain nostalgia remains baked into the flaky crust of seal flipper pie. According to Annie Proulx&#8217;s best-selling 1993 novel </span><em><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=jHp8VHqgCmQC&amp;printsec=frontcover&amp;dq=the+shipping+news&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=ngFKUez1JKmLjAKX_oCAAg&amp;ved=0CDAQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&amp;q=flipper%20pie&amp;f=false" target="_blank">The Shipping News</a></em>, which takes place in the fishing town of Killick-Claw, Newfoundland, the dish is quite tasty, but mostly evokes fond memories for the Newfoundlander characters:</p>
<blockquote><p><span style="font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px;">&#8220;It&#8217;s good. From the shoulder joint, you know. Not really the flippers&#8230;The pie was heavy with rich, dark meat in savory gravy.&#8221; </span></p></blockquote>
<p>The book<span> was later made into a <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hx43t18qQzU" target="_blank">movie of the same title in 2001 starring Kevin Spacey</a>, which references the dish in the soundtrack with a <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldTe_uAKCno" target="_blank">song aptly called &#8220;seal flipper pie</a>.&#8221; No news on whether the flipper pie Spacey bit into on set was the real deal, b</span><span>ut if you&#8217;ve got a hankering for the breaded pie, it&#8217;s still served in </span><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=TfJMly_KEfwC&amp;pg=PT834&amp;dq=seal+flipper+pie&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=JYVHUfDAKYqaiALonICoAQ&amp;ved=0CDIQ6AEwATgK" target="_blank">St. John&#8217;s, the largest city in Newfoundland and Labrador, at eateries</a><span> like </span><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=uvoa3m3kIgYC&amp;pg=PA312&amp;dq=seal+flipper+pie&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=moBHUfWoLOTbigLuwIG4Dg&amp;ved=0CEEQ6AEwAw#v=onepage&amp;q=seal%20&amp;f=false" target="_blank">Chucky&#8217;s</a>,<span> which offers a different take on the classic dish. If you want to make it at home without the hassle, the</span><a href="http://whatlizate.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/dsc01692.jpg?w=490&amp;h=367" target="_blank"> meal is also available frozen</a><span> and canned at local food stores like <a href="http://real-ityontherock.blogspot.com/2007/12/mmm-flipper-pie.html" target="_blank">Bidgood&#8217;s</a>.</span></p>
<p><span>One tip if you&#8217;re brave enough to try the breaded pie this Easter: When you&#8217;re done, </span><span>remember to say in true Newfoundland fashion: &#8220;</span><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=kv4nlSWLT8UC&amp;pg=PA502&amp;dq=seal+flipper+pie&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=moBHUfWoLOTbigLuwIG4Dg&amp;ved=0CEcQ6AEwBA#v=onepage&amp;q=chucky's&amp;f=false" target="_blank">I&#8217;m as full as an egg</a><span>.&#8221; Or maybe that was &#8220;Easter egg?&#8221;</span></p>
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		<title>Tip of the Iceberg: Our Love-Hate Relationship With the Nation’s Blandest Vegetable</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 26 Mar 2013 14:36:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Twilight Greenaway</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Agriculture & Farming]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Fruits and Vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Nutrition]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lettuce]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/?p=14323</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[It's never been the most nutritious green at the grocers, but the versatile lettuce has a knack for sticking around on the dinner table]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-14402" title="iceberg-lettuce-wedge-salad-web" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/03/iceberg-lettuce-wedge-salad-web.jpg" alt="" width="0" height="0" /></p>
<div id="attachment_14325" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 600px"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tavallai/4816755948/in/set-72157623598655433"><img class=" wp-image-14325 " src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2013/03/iceberg_wedge_Tavallai_575.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="337" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Photo by Flickr user Tavallai.</p></div>
<p>These days, the classic wedge salad—wherein the chef smothers a chunk of crisp Iceberg lettuce with creamy blue cheese dressing, and crumbles bacon all over the top—is seen as a cornerstone of American “comfort food.”</p>
<p>The dish is also often credited with single-handedly causing an &#8220;<a href="http://www.vivrepourmanger.com/iceberg-lettuce-making-a-comeback/">Iceberg</a> <a href="http://articles.washingtonpost.com/2008-10-23/news/36913715_1_iceberg-lettuce-crisphead-true-iceberg">comeback</a>.&#8221;<strong> </strong>All of this raises the question: Did this crisp salad green, the “<a href="http://www.barrypopik.com/index.php/new_york_city/entry/polyester_of_lettuce_iceberg_lettuce_nickname/">polyester of  lettuce</a>,” really go so far away that it needed to come back? And if so, can one menu item really make a difference?</p>
<p>But first a note—for those who aren&#8217;t old enough to remember—about just how ubiquitous Iceberg lettuce once was. Introduced for commercial production in the late 1940s, Iceberg (or crisphead) lettuce was the only variety bred to survive cross-country travel (the name Iceberg comes from the piles of ice they would pack the light green lettuce heads in before the advent of the refrigerated train car). Therefore, throughout the middle of the century, unless you grew your own or dined in a high-end establishment, iceberg essentially<em> was</em> lettuce.</p>
<p>Most of the nation&#8217;s lettuce is grown in California, and in 1974, leafy green “non-crisphead” varieties of lettuce still made up only around five percent of the total acres grown in California. Then things changed. For one, consumers became more aware of the nutritional value of greens that are, well, greener. (Made of a high percentage of water, iceberg has only around 1/20th the amount of vitamins as the darker leafy greens, <a href="http://readingeagle.com/article.aspx?id=111414">says David Still, a plant science professor at California State Polytechnic University at Pomona.)</a></p>
<p>America’s everyday lettuce for half a century was losing market share. By 1995, other lettuce varieties made up to around 30 percent of the lettuce American&#8217;s ate, and it has been rising steadily since, according to the <a href="http://www.calgreens.org">California Leafy Greens Research Programs</a> (a salad industry group). That&#8217;s precisely why, by 2007, the Salinas, California-based Tanimura and Antle—the nation&#8217;s largest lettuce supplier—decided it needed to start promoting Iceberg. And rather than compete with varieties that have more flavor or nutrition, Tanimura and Antle went straight for nostalgia, and opted to draw a connection to steaks, fathers, and sports. A <a href="http://www.taproduce.com/trade/press-detail.php?id=8&amp;keywords=Tanimura_&amp;_Antle_Take_Iceberg_Lettuce_to_the_Big_Leagues_for_Father%27s_Day">press release</a> from the time reads:</p>
<blockquote><p>Mother’s Day has strawberries, Thanksgiving has celery, but historically no holiday has been associated with Iceberg lettuce,” says Antle. “What better product to claim ownership of Father’s Day than the cornerstone salad of steakhouse menus?</p></blockquote>
<p><strong> </strong>Wal-Mart, Albertsons, and several other big retailers hung signs and banners promoting the campaign, and sales got a boost. The company also planted wedge salad recipes around the food media world, in hopes that they would inspire chefs to return to this American Classic.</p>
<p>It&#8217;s hard to say whether the Father&#8217;s Day angle made a difference, but the larger effort to reconnect to Iceberg to simpler times with fewer complicated health choices appears to have worked. Sort of.</p>
<p>On the one hand, chefs like the fact that Iceberg is a completely neutral way to add crunch and filler to an otherwise flavorful medley of ingredients. So it appears that this classic salad will be sticking around on menus for a while. (Last fall the <em>San Francisco Chronicle</em> <a href="http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2012/01/10/the-iceberg-wedge-makes-a-comeback-yet-again/">ran a list of nearly a dozen upscale restaurants</a> serving some variation on the wedge salad, including everything from croutons, to apple, walnuts, and avocado. <a href="http://www.morimotonapa.com/">One Napa restaurant</a> even serves it with the Iceberg frozen for extra crispness.) <strong><br />
</strong></p>
<p>On the production level, however, Iceberg may never return to it’s reigning position. It’s a little cheaper to grow and has long been easy to ship and store (the name Iceberg is said to come from the way the round lettuces were shipped by train in big piles of ice), but it has a hard time standing up to romaine, butter, and all the other specialty greens that have become popular in recent years.</p>
<p>This also appears to be true outside the U.S. In 2011, for example, UK-based <em>Telegraph </em>declared: “<a href="http://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/personalfinance/8347648/Era-of-iceberg-lettuce-is-over.html">The era of Iceberg lettuce is over</a>,” as “bagged leaf varieties such as [arugula] and watercress are up by 37 per cent compared to last year.” Of course, it may never be hard to find Iceberg lettuce in fast food tacos and Sizzler salad bars.  But the decline of Iceberg might also signal some good news for Americans’ diets.</p>
<p>“Iceburg sales have gone down, but romaine has gone up,” says <em>Mary</em><em> </em>Zischke from the California Leafy Greens Research Programs. “Tastes have changed. And the darker, leafy greens have a better story to tell from a nutrition standpoint.”</p>
<p>Compared to 20 years ago, Zischke added, “there are a lot more choices. Especially in some parts of the country, like the Midwest.” Overall, she’s glad to report that: “The product mix has changed, but our [greens] industry has also gotten bigger.”</p>
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		<item>
		<title>A Gentile’s Guide to Keeping Kosher for Passover</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/food/~3/usyE7RXzmgU/</link>
		<comments>http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/03/a-gentiles-guide-to-keeping-kosher-for-passover/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 25 Mar 2013 14:57:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Brian Wolly</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Food History]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Holiday Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[brian wolly]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[holiday food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jewish food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[judaism]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[kosher]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[passover]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/?p=8721</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Updated on March 25, 2013 for the latest in Kosher for Passover news The Torah couldn&#8217;t make things any clearer. From Exodus 12:14 and 15: &#8220;This day shall be for you a memorial day, and you shall keep it as a feast to the LORD; throughout your generations, as statute forever, you shall keep it as [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_8799" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 500px"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/spindexr/4489007660/"><img class="size-full wp-image-8799" title="matzah-keeping-kosher-for-passover" src="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/files/2011/04/4489007660_f7efe730ab.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Matzo, the unleavened bread. Image courtesy of Flickr user Avital Pinnick</p></div>
<p><strong>Updated on March 25, 2013 for the latest in Kosher for Passover news</strong></p>
<p>The Torah couldn&#8217;t make things any clearer. From <a href="http://www.biblegateway.com/passage/?search=Exodus+12&amp;version=ESV">Exodus 12:14 and 15</a>: &#8220;This day shall be for you a memorial day, and you shall keep it as a feast to the LORD; throughout your generations, as statute forever, you shall keep it as a feast. Seven days you shall eat unleavened bread. On the first day you shall remove leaven out of your houses, for if anyone eats what is leavened, from the first day until the seventh day, that person shall be cut off from Israel.&#8221;</p>
<p>But in the centuries since, food has gotten a lot more complicated, and the Jews who fled Egypt were fruitful and multiplied, melding their own traditions with regional customs. Today the rules governing keeping kosher for Passover aren&#8217;t as clear as they were in ancient Judea. Erik&#8217;s explainer on the <a title="Lenten Fast Food and Think" href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2011/03/lent-in-the-fast-lane/">Lenten fast</a> taught me much about the Catholic tradition, so I&#8217;ll repay the favor with this guide for my Gentile friends on how American Jews keep kosher for Passover. I should preface this section by saying that even among the most observant Jews, there are disagreements over what is and what is not kosher for Passover. There are many foods, like jellies or butter, that  should be considered allowable given their ingredients, but the equipment used to produce them is not cleaned and inspected by rabbinic observers. This is why you may see specially wrapped or branded products of everyday goods for those Jews who look for that extra degree of precaution. Consider this a brief slice of a very complicated discussion.</p>
<p><strong>The Obvious No-Nos:</strong></p>
<p><em>Wheat, spelt, barley, oats and rye</em>. Known collectively as <em>chometz, </em>these grains are universally left out of diets during Passover week. This means no Apple Jacks, <a href="http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;cd=1&amp;ved=0CBQQFjAA&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fblogs.smithsonianmag.com%2Ffood%2F2008%2F12%2Fa-brief-history-of-the-bagel%2F&amp;rct=j&amp;q=food%20and%20think%20bagels&amp;ei=7pitTe7KH4Ox0QGR3u2wCw&amp;usg=AFQjCNGvDqQzEMxVAgh7vdCKotDWlwhBDw&amp;sig2=8h7V1OsbPdllrSIwMrWFKg&amp;cad=rja">bagels</a>, biscuits, <a href="http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;cd=6&amp;ved=0CDQQFjAF&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fblogs.smithsonianmag.com%2Ffood%2F2010%2F03%2Fcolonial-recipes-sally-lunn-cake%2F&amp;rct=j&amp;q=food%20and%20think%20cake&amp;ei=CpmtTfTGCqLX0QHR0MDoAg&amp;usg=AFQjCNGZjSGdagnj_pPVIA6sJ-HmLOYy7Q&amp;sig2=PBHLcyrSjJTjqqbWUX6SPg&amp;cad=rja">cakes</a>, cookies, danishes, empanadas, ficelles, gyros, hoagies, Italian bread, <a href="http://www.seriouseats.com/talk/2009/12/sufganiyot-recipe.html">jelly donuts</a>, knishes, <a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2010/11/inviting-writing-lefse-lessons-with-grandma/">lefse</a>, muffins, naan, oatmeal, pasta, pizza, <a href="http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;cd=3&amp;ved=0CCIQFjAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fablogaboutfood2.blogspot.com%2F2011%2F04%2Fmini-quiches.html&amp;rct=j&amp;q=food%20and%20think%20quiche&amp;ei=gZmtTbO_PIrq0gHJw6C3Cw&amp;usg=AFQjCNG2lhwk25WKGIuPNbHUIKtDFItaHA&amp;sig2=QbNGy_MgHsqgd5H8kve72Q&amp;cad=rja">quiches</a>, rugelach, strombolis, tacos, upside-down cake, Viennese wafers, waffles, yeast or zwieback.</p>
<p>Unfortunately, these rules also mean that all beer and most liquor is forbidden. The only alcohol allowed is wine, of which there are <a href="http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;cd=2&amp;ved=0CDQQFjAB&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.forbes.com%2F2009%2F04%2F02%2Fkosher-wines-passover-lifestyle-wine-kosher-wine.html&amp;rct=j&amp;q=kosher%20for%20passover%20wine&amp;ei=pZmtTfqRMOHz0gGl2Iy2Cw&amp;usg=AFQjCNHGlIoU1HJ9n_AbpsYVAo4IRO0iEQ&amp;sig2=iSrfT-wGPW1gS3DBpnoIgA&amp;cad=rja">kosher-for-Passover varieties</a>.</p>
<p>It is <a href="http://www.aish.com/h/pes/l/48966396.html">customary to clean all the <em>chometz</em></a> out of one&#8217;s house. Some totally cleanse the house, others board up closets, others sell the grains to their non-Jewish neighbors (you can help next year!) and buy it back at the end of the holiday, others <a href="https://www.mychabad.org/holidays/passover/sell_chometz.asp?aid=111191&amp;jewish=Sell-Your-Chametz-Online.htm&amp;site=chabad.org">sell their <em>chometz</em> on the Internet </a>to a stranger and buy it back even though the food never moves.</p>
<p><strong>The Generally Assumed No-Nos:</strong></p>
<p><strong> </strong><em>Rice and beans. </em>The realm of <em>kitniyot </em>(legumes) is among the grayest of areas. Joan Nathan is the Barefoot Contessa of Jewish cooking and she says it best in her book <em><a title="Joan Nathan" href="http://www.amazon.com/Quiches-Kugels-Couscous-Search-Cooking/dp/0307267598">Quiches, Kugels, and Couscous: My Search for Jewish Cooking in France</a>: </em></p>
<blockquote><p>In the Middle Ages, rice, lentils, chickpeas, and fava beans were all ground into flour, which in that state could be confused with the true grains. The list continued to grow after corn and beans came to the Old World from the New. In France, where mustard seeds grow, mustard was added to the list, because the seeds could be intertwined and confused with other plants.</p></blockquote>
<p>The confusion principle is largely the reason why many American Jews abstain from eating any corn or rice products on Passover. According to Nathan, a biblical ruling was made in the 12th and 13th centuries that &#8220;any grain that can be cooked and baked like matzo [could be] confused with the biblical grains.&#8221; Therefore, not kosher for Passover. But this is a tradition that is mainly continued by Ashkenazic Jews, or those whose ancestors come from eastern Europe. Pre-Inquisition Jews from Spain never followed these rules, and thus Sephardim, who by definition are Jews descended from those who escaped Spain but also include those who are from South America, Asia, the Middle East and Africa, do not either. The vast majority of American Jews, <a title="Sephardic Jews history" href="http://books.google.com/books?id=JZQwMhgF8VkC&amp;pg=PA174&amp;lpg=PA174&amp;dq=percentage+of+sephardic+jews+in+us&amp;source=bl&amp;ots=r-GhB3ysEX&amp;sig=dKuG9fiGL_fRU5ILnJQ2V6ycArw&amp;hl=en&amp;ei=MZetTeOmCaiR0QHAm4W7Cw&amp;sa=X&amp;oi=book_result&amp;ct=result&amp;resnum=6&amp;ved=0CDoQ6AEwBQ#v=twopage&amp;q&amp;f=false">95 percent or more</a>, are Ashkenazic.</p>
<p>Even now in an era of detailed FDA-mandated labeling, where such a confusion is nigh impossible, the tradition remains. This is why you see the fabled &#8220;Mexican Coke&#8221; make an appearance each spring. Made with cane sugar and not high-fructose corn syrup, the imported soda is good to go. <strong>UPDATE: </strong>Do you live in California? Tough luck, you can&#8217;t have kosher-for-Passover coke as a new California law forced Coca-Cola to change its manufacturing process lest the beverage be labeled as having<a href="http://newsfeed.time.com/2013/03/25/no-kosher-coca-cola-available-in-california-for-passover/"> a carcinogenic agent. The company has yet to find a way to manufacture kosher-for-Passover versions on the same machinery</a>. Relatedly, what tastes better? Regular Coke or Kosher for Passover Coke? <a href="http://www.newrepublic.com/article/112747">The New Republic did a taste test.</a></p>
<p><em>Matzo.</em> For reasons that are unknown to most Jews, some people willingly eat matzo at other times of the year. These matzo boxes are labeled &#8220;not kosher for Passover&#8221; and should not be eaten as a part of observing the holiday. The difference? Rabbinic supervision to ensure that any matzo made for Passover is untainted by any leavening agents. There is also <a href="http://www.chabad.org/holidays/passover/pesach_cdo/aid/1163475/jewish/Is-Egg-Matzah-Kosher-For-Passover.htm">a debate</a> over whether egg matzo is allowed. While clearly being verboten for the Passover seder (another Torah passage states that only the flour and water version may be used during the ritual), eating egg matzo during the rest of the week is left up to the observant.</p>
<p><em>Quinoa</em>. The New York Times had a <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/18/nyregion/for-passover-eating-quinoa-is-popular-but-is-it-kosher.html?scp=1&amp;sq=quinoa&amp;st=cse">good wrap-up</a> of the quinoa loophole, which is rather ingenious. Since the grain is a relative newcomer to Western diets, the grain wholly bypassed not only the Talmudic scholars but the &#8220;confusion principle&#8221; as explained above. Ashkenazic rabbis never had the chance to exclude it from the holiday, and so by default it became kosher for Passover. Now concerns are being raised over whether the manufacturing process is clean of any of the banned grains.</p>
<p><strong>Fair Game</strong>:</p>
<p>Most everything else. All in all, keeping kosher for Passover isn&#8217;t all that difficult, especially if you have experience with the Atkins Diet. I find myself eating more healthy meals this week than usual, as I am forced to cook at home and use copious fruits and vegetables to fill out my diet. If I&#8217;m cooking meat, I make my own marinades or sauces, and if I&#8217;m eating a salad, my own dressings. Don&#8217;t put shrimp salad or a bacon cheeseburger on your matzo—the normal kosher laws still pertain: no shellfish, pork products or mixing of meat and cheese is allowed.</p>
<p><em>Cigarettes:</em> According to the Associated Press, a rabbinic group in Israel has, for the first time, <a href="http://www.miamiherald.com/2013/03/25/3305584/israelis-get-kosher-cigarettes.html">declared certain cigarettes</a> as Kosher for Passover.</p>
<p><strong>One last note:</strong></p>
<p>If you re-read the passage from Exodus, you&#8217;ll notice that it declares that the holiday should be observed for seven days, as is done in modern day Israel, and not the eight customarily observed by American Jews. In the era before standardized calendars, Jews in the Diaspora (any area outside of Israel) added an extra day to ensure that their holiday overlapped with the official celebration. This is also why American Jews have two nights of seders, where in Israel they only have one.</p>
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