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<title>Travel | Africa &amp; the Middle East | Smithsonian.com</title>
	<link>http://www.smithsonianmag.com/travel/africa-middleeast/Smithsonian-Travel-Africa-Feed.html</link>
	<description />
	<language>en-us</language>
	<copyright>2012 Smithsonian</copyright>
	<pubDate>Sat, 02 Jun 2012 01:44:17 GMT</pubDate>
    	
				
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
                                                        
                                                                    
                                                                    
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                                
                                                                    
                                                                    
                                                                    
                                                                    
                                                                    
                                                                    
                                                                    
                                                                    
                                                                    
                                                                    
                                                                    
                                                                    
                    	
          
     								             					
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			<title>A Journey to Obama’s Kenya</title>
							<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~3/yCfpyPqdsLg/A-Journey-to-Obamas-Kenya.html</link>
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						<description>The dusty village where Barack Obama’s father was raised had high hopes after his son was elected president. What has happened since then?&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~4/yCfpyPqdsLg" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</description>				
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Apr 2012 06:22:45 GMT</pubDate>	
			<content><![CDATA[

The new asphalt highway to Barack Obama&rsquo;s ancestral village winds past maize fields and thatched-roof mud huts for several miles before terminating at a startling sight: a row of lime-green cottages with pink pagoda-style roofs, flanked by two whitewashed, four-story villas. Kogelo Village Resort, a 40-bed hotel and conference center that opened last November, is the latest manifestation of the worldwide fascination with the U.S. president&rsquo;s Kenyan roots. Owner Nicholas Rajula, a big man with a booming voice, was sitting beneath a canopy on the parched front lawn answering a pair of cellphones when I drove through the gate. Rajula stirred controversy here in 2007, shortly after]]>
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			<title>Make Way for the African Penguins</title>
							<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~3/YFjPvGL4Mys/Make-Way-for-the-African-Penguins.html</link>
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						<description>Few places let you get as close to the raffish birds—many of which are endangered—as South Africa’s Robben Island&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~4/YFjPvGL4Mys" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</description>				
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Apr 2012 06:00:00 GMT</pubDate>	
			<content><![CDATA[

The lives of penguins on South Africa&rsquo;s Robben Island are defined by the rhythms of their daily commute. Every morning, they parade down penguin highways to the sea, and every evening they return to their nests along the same paths, full of half-digested fish that they regurgitate to their whining chicks.

I was crouched behind a camouflage net to avoid scaring skittish birds on their way home after a long day of fishing. My job was to read the numbers on flipper bands. Scientists have banded about 4,000 chicks and 40,000 adult penguins in this area over the past 33 years to find out how long they live and where they feed, swim and nest.

Eight penguins, not yet tagged, teetered on t]]>
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			<title>Robben Island: A Monument to Courage</title>
							<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~3/NrSJuiyaqXg/Robben-Island-A-Monument-to-Courage.html</link>
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						<description>To visit the brutal prison that held Mandela is haunting, yet inspiring&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~4/NrSJuiyaqXg" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</description>				
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Apr 2012 06:00:00 GMT</pubDate>	
			<content><![CDATA[

The busload of tourists on Robben Island grew quiet as Yasien Mohamed, our 63-year-old guide, gestured to a bleak limestone quarry on the side of the road. It was here, he said, that Nelson Mandela toiled virtually every day for 13 years, digging up rock, some of which paved the road we were driving on. The sun was so relentless, the quarry so bright and dusty, that Mandela was stricken with &ldquo;snow blindness&rdquo; that damaged his eyes.

Nevertheless, Mandela and other heroes of South Africa&rsquo;s anti-apartheid movement, such as Govan Mbeki and Walter Sisulu, used their time in this quarry to teach each other literature, philosophy and political theory, among other things. &ldquo;]]>
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			<title>Evolution World Tour: Wadi Hitan, Egypt</title>
							<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~3/TT1mJW4bIOs/Evotourism-World-Tour-Wadi-Hitan-Egypt.html</link>
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						<description>In Egypt's Western Desert, evidence abounds that before they were the kings of the ocean, whales roamed the earth on four legs&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~4/TT1mJW4bIOs" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</description>				
			<pubDate>Mon, 19 Dec 2011 08:55:59 GMT</pubDate>	
			<content><![CDATA[

In 1902, a team of geologists guided their camels into a valley in Egypt&rsquo;s Western Desert&mdash;a desolate, dream-like place. Centuries of strong wind had sculpted sandstone rocks into alien shapes, and at night the moonlight was so bright that the sand glowed like gold. There was no water for miles. A nearby hill was known as &ldquo;Mountain of Hell&rdquo; because of the infernal summer heat.

Yet in this parched valley lay the bones of whales.

Some of the skeletons were 50 feet long, with vertebrae as thick as campfire logs. They dated back 37 million years, to an era when a shallow, tropical sea covered this area and all of northern Egypt.

And although the geologists didn&rsquo;]]>
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			<title>Evolution World Tour: The Cradle of Humankind, South Africa</title>
							<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~3/YzXBpSvlb8g/Evotourism-World-Tour-The-Cradle-of-Humankind-South-Africa.html</link>
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						<description>The world's greatest source of hominid fossils is among dozens of caves just hours from Johannesburg&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~4/YzXBpSvlb8g" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</description>				
			<pubDate>Mon, 19 Dec 2011 07:00:00 GMT</pubDate>	
			<content><![CDATA[

Three million years ago, an eagle soared above an enormous forest in South Africa and zeroed in on its target. Among a group of hominids searching for fruits, nuts and seeds, a 3-year-old child had strayed too far away from its mother. The eagle swooped down, grabbed the 25-pound toddler with its talons and flew off to its nest, perched above the opening to an underground cave. As the eagle dined on its meal, scraps fell into the cave below.

Similarly hair-raising tales&mdash;hominids being dragged into caves by leopards or accidentally falling into hidden holes&mdash;explain why South Africa&rsquo;s limestone caves are the world&rsquo;s greatest source of hominid fossils. About 900 have ]]>
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			<title>Take in South Africa From Table Mountain National Park</title>
							<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~3/CnN5x6CD1k4/Take-in-South-Africa-From-Table-Mountain-National-Park.html</link>
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						<description>High above Cape Town, this craggy wildlife preserve provides sprawling views and thrilling hikes&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~4/CnN5x6CD1k4" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</description>				
			<pubDate>Fri, 29 Jul 2011 04:39:32 GMT</pubDate>	
			<content><![CDATA[

Comprising nearly three-quarters of South Africa&rsquo;s Cape Peninsula, including a mountain chain, beaches, coves and cliffs, Table Mountain National Park is among the most scenic and biologically diverse preserves in the world.

At the northern end of the 60,540-acre park is Table Mountain, the flat-topped granite and sandstone massif that rises 3,562 feet above Cape Town. The summit can be reached on foot, about a 2 &frac12;-hour hike, or by cable car, which takes four to five minutes. Once there visitors have a spectacular view of the sprawling city, Table Bay and, about 7 &frac12; miles in the distance, Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned. They can also take a walk alo]]>
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			<title>Ghana’s Monument to Sorrow and Survival</title>
							<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~3/OF4UQHhUCDI/Ghanas-Monument-to-Sorrow-and-Survival.html</link>
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						<description>At Cape Coast Castle, visitors walk in the footsteps of African slaves&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~4/OF4UQHhUCDI" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</description>				
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 May 2011 09:38:03 GMT</pubDate>	
			<content><![CDATA[

When traffic cooperates, it&rsquo;s a three-hour bus ride from Accra to Cape Coast, Ghana. But an attentive passenger can pass the time watching for roadside signs that display improbable mixes of piety and commercialism (on the outskirts of Accra, the &ldquo;But Seek First the Kingdom of God Construction Works&rdquo;) or uproarious irreverence (in Cape Coast, the &ldquo;Don&rsquo;t Mind Your Wife Chop Shop&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;chop shop&rdquo; being Ghanaian slang for a food stand).

Ghana&rsquo;s attractions include clubs that play the irresistibly danceable local music known as highlife, contact with nature and wildlife in the country&rsquo;s national parks, and shopping for handicrafts ]]>
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			<title>Morocco's Extraordinary Donkeys</title>
							<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~3/01prcBmQ2tY/Where-Donkeys-Deliver-Morocco.html</link>
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						<description>The author returns to Fez to explore the stubborn animal's central role in the life of this desert kingdom&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~4/01prcBmQ2tY" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</description>				
			<pubDate>Thu, 20 Aug 2009 06:00:00 GMT</pubDate>	
			<content><![CDATA[

The donkey I couldn't forget was coming around a corner in the walled city of Fez, Morocco, with six color televisions strapped to his back. If I could tell you the exact intersection where I saw him, I would do so, but pinpointing a location in Fez is a formidable challenge, a little like noting GPS coordinates in a spider web. I might be able to be more precise about where I saw the donkey if I knew how to extrapolate location using the position of the sun, but I don't. Moreover, there wasn't any sun to be seen and barely a sliver of sky, because leaning in all around me were the sheer walls of the medina&mdash;the old walled portion of Fez&mdash;where the buildings are so packed and sta]]>
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			<title>Day 1: Seeing Kenya from the Sky</title>
							<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~3/PzqABkw0CGQ/Day-1-Seeing-Kenya-from-the-Sky.html</link>
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						<description>Despite many travel delays, Smithsonian Secretary Clough arrives in Kenya ready to study the African wildlife at the Mpala Ranch&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~4/PzqABkw0CGQ" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</description>				
			<pubDate>Tue, 16 Jun 2009 03:14:42 GMT</pubDate>	
			<content><![CDATA[

June 13, Nairobi, Kenya. Weather: Sunny, warm and humid. Mpala Ranch (elev. 6000 feet): Sunny, warm, cool breezes.

The redoubtable Francine Berkowitz, director of international relations for the Smithsonian informs me that the Institution and its people are involved in activities in 88 countries, ranging from large permanent operations like the Panama to remote sites visited only occasionally by researchers and scientists collecting data. These international operations are critical to the diverse and varied work of the Smithsonian and that that is what brings me to Kenya.

I am here to visit the Africa that are at risk as the human population encroaches into what was once natural habitat.]]>
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			<title>Endangered Site: Famagusta Walled City, Cyprus</title>
							<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~3/Pwmu4ijIT1Q/Endangered-Cultural-Treasures-Famagusta-Walled-City-Cyprus.html</link>
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						<description>Once located in the midst of high-volume shipping lanes, a forgotten city with multiple European influences could be lost forever without an intervention&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~4/Pwmu4ijIT1Q" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</description>				
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Feb 2009 07:00:00 GMT</pubDate>	
			<content><![CDATA[

&quot;All ships and all wares,&quot; a 14th-century German traveler wrote, &quot;must needs come first to Famagusta.&quot; The port city on the northeastern coast of Cyprus was once on a bustling shipping lane, carrying merchants from Europe and the Near East and armies of Christian knights and Ottoman Turks. Famagusta rose to prominence between the 12th and 15th centuries, most notably as the city where the Crusader kings of Jerusalem were crowned.

Now ancient Famagusta, tucked into a modern city of 35,000 people, also called Famagusta, is largely forgotten, except, perhaps, as the setting for Shakespeare's Othello. Some 200 buildings&mdash;reflecting Byzantine, French Gothic and Italian]]>
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			<title>Endangered Site: Chinguetti, Mauritania</title>
							<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~3/-rTd4xrW5ZE/Endangered-Cultural-Treasures-Chinguetti-Mauritania.html</link>
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						<description>The rapidly expanding Sahara Desert threatens a medieval trading center that also carries importance for Sunni Muslims&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~4/-rTd4xrW5ZE" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</description>				
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Feb 2009 07:00:00 GMT</pubDate>	
			<content><![CDATA[

The Sahara is expanding southward at a rate of 30 miles per year&mdash;and part of the desert's recently acquired territory is a 260-acre patch of land in north-central Mauritania, home to the village of Chinguetti, once a vibrant trading and religious center. Sand piles up in the narrow paths between decrepit buildings, in the courtyards of abandoned homes and near the mosque that has attracted Sunni pilgrims since the 13th century. After a visit in 1996, writer and photographer Kit Constable Maxwell predicted that Chinguetti would be buried without a trace within generations. &quot;Like so many desert towns through history, it is a casualty of time and the changing face of mankind's cult]]>
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			<title>Endangered Site: Church of the Nativity, Bethlehem</title>
							<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~3/bVHPLNkhMnU/Endangered-Cultural-Treasures-Church-of-the-Nativity-Bethlehem.html</link>
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						<description>The basilica believed to mark the birthplace of Jesus Christ has survived invasions, rebellions and earthquakes&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~4/bVHPLNkhMnU" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</description>				
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Feb 2009 07:00:00 GMT</pubDate>	
			<content><![CDATA[

Feuding monks at the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem don't just cast the first stone&mdash;they stockpile rocks in anticipation of future altercations. Several holy men landed in the hospital two Christmases ago after a fight broke out over the dusting of church chandeliers. The occasional brawls at the 1,700-year-old basilica, believed to mark the birthplace of Jesus Christ, reflect the difficulty of housing three Christian denominations under a single roof.

And now that roof is rotting, threatening the structural integrity of the building. Parts of the wooden truss structure date to the 15th century, and holes in the timbers allow dirty water to drip upon the precious paintings and ]]>
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			<title>Endangered Site: The City of Hasankeyf, Turkey</title>
							<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~3/DpNBpDVKd9A/Endangered-Cultural-Treasures-The-City-of-Hasankeyf-Turkey.html</link>
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						<description>A new hydroelectric dam threatens the ancient city, home to thousands of human-made caves&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~4/DpNBpDVKd9A" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</description>				
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Feb 2009 07:00:00 GMT</pubDate>	
			<content><![CDATA[

The waters of the Tigris River gave rise to the first settlements of the Fertile Crescent in Anatolia and Mesopotamia&mdash;the cradle of civilization. The ancient city of Hasankeyf, built on and around the banks of the river in southeastern Turkey, may be one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in the world, spanning some 10,000 years. Hasankeyf and its surrounding limestone cliffs are home to thousands of human-made caves, 300 medieval monuments and a unique canyon ecosystem&mdash;all combining to create a beguiling open-air museum.

But the city, along with the archaeological artifacts still buried beneath it, is slated to become a sunken treasure. Despite widespread protes]]>
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			<title>The Enduring Splendors of, Yes, Afghanistan</title>
							<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~3/oN3t4PoPx8c/splendors.html</link>
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						<description>A writer and photographer crisscross a nation ravaged by a quarter century of warfare to inventory its most sacred treasures&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~4/oN3t4PoPx8c" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</description>				
			<pubDate>Sat, 01 Feb 2003 05:00:00 GMT</pubDate>	
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Our quest begins beside an austere sarcophagus of white, black and pink marble with a simple little ivory-colored mosque below and vast terraced flower gardens beyond, high above the dusty, war-battered city of Kabul. The man buried beneath these stones, Zahiruddin Mohammed Babur, was one of Asia&rsquo;s greatest empire builders. Starting about the time of Columbus as an Uzbek princeling in the Fergana Valley north of Afghanistan, Babur and his followers captured eastern Afghanistan and Kabul; from there they rode east across the Khyber Pass, to conquer northern India all the way to the Himalayas.



Three of us, photographer Beth Wald, my Afghan friend Azat Mir, and I, are setting out to ]]>
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			<title>Egypt's Crowning Glory</title>
							<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~3/ZRNRGhnzFuk/Egypts_Crowning_Glory.html</link>
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						<description>New Kingdom customs rise triumphantly from the dead in "The Quest for Immortality," a dazzling display of treasures from the tombs of the pharaohs&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~4/ZRNRGhnzFuk" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</description>				
			<pubDate>Tue, 01 Jul 2003 04:00:00 GMT</pubDate>	
			<content><![CDATA[

Like some 24-carat Band-Aid, the finely worked gold plaque, inscribed with animal-headed gods and a giant eye, once covered an incision in the abdomen of Psusennes I of Egypt&rsquo;s 21st Dynasty. Through the cut 3,000 years ago, embalmers removed the pharaoh&rsquo;s internal organs for safekeeping; the king would need them again in the afterlife. The plaque&rsquo;s mysterious eye certified that no evil spirits had entered the pharaoh&rsquo;s body.



When found in 1939, the mummy of the dead king, who reigned from 1039-991 B.C., was fairly heaped with such amulets&mdash;bangles, armbands, rings, and a fabulous pectoral of gleaming gold, turquoise and lapis lazuli. Even his toes were prote]]>
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			<title>Dazzling Dubai</title>
							<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~3/Vj_pkgdp7Ak/dubai.html</link>
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						<description>The Persian Gulf kingdom has embraced openness and capitalism. Might other Mideast nations follow?&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~4/Vj_pkgdp7Ak" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</description>				
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 Oct 2003 04:00:00 GMT</pubDate>	
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At the sheikh rashid terminal of Dubai International Airport&mdash;a glittering temple of Ali Baba eclecticism and gateway to this 1,500-square-mile principality on the Persian Gulf&mdash;a visitor steps onto a carpet patterned after wind-ruffled desert sand, passes goldtone replicas of palm trees and continues past a shop-till-you-drop duty-free store where one can buy a bar of gold or a raffle ticket for a Maserati. Afew steps away stands the special departure gate for Hajj pilgrims en route to Mecca. They have their own Starbucks counter.



Beyond the terminal lies a startling skyline: high-rise hotels and office buildings of stainless steel and blue glass springing straight out of the]]>
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			<title>Letter from Lahore: Reinventing Pakistan</title>
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						<description>Welcome to Lahore, where an explosion of art and media is offering a vibrant alternative to the strictures of religious conservatives and is transforming one of America's most important and most ambivalent allies&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~4/4ByAdlzNYmo" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</description>				
			<pubDate>Mon, 12 Nov 2007 07:29:36 GMT</pubDate>	
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One night, as troops from Pakistan&rsquo;s army massed 300 miles away to hunt for remnants of Al Qaeda in the tribal areas bordering Afghanistan, I went to a concert in my hometown of Lahore. It was a pleasant evening, warm, with a light breeze carrying the smell of April flowers: flame trees, magnolias, jasmine. We sat outside on carpets spread across the lawn of a white bungalow, the audience ranging from teenagers with soul patches and ponytails to elegant matrons in saris. My back ached slightly, and I mentioned this to a friend as I reached for the only available cushion I could see.

&ldquo;Don&rsquo;t even think about it,&rdquo; she said, patting her very pregnant belly. &ldquo;It&r]]>
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			<title>A New Day in Iran?</title>
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						<description>The regime may inflame Washington, but young Iranians say they admire, of all places, America&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/smithsonianmag/travel/africa-middleeast/~4/rZx7cW5Fohw" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</description>				
			<pubDate>Tue, 01 Mar 2005 05:00:00 GMT</pubDate>	
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The police officer stepped into the traffic, blocking our car. Tapping the hood twice, he waved us to the side of the road. My driver, Amir, who had been grinning broadly to the Persian pop his new speaker system thumped out, turned grim. &ldquo;I don&rsquo;t have a downtown permit,&rdquo; he said, referring to the official sticker allowing cars in central Tehran at rush hour. &ldquo;It could be a heavy fine.&rdquo;

We stepped out of the car and approached the officer. He was young, not more than 25, with a peach fuzz mustache. &ldquo;I&rsquo;m a journalist from America,&rdquo; I said in Persian. &ldquo;Please write the ticket in my name. It&rsquo;s my fault.&rdquo;

&ldquo;You have come ]]>
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