Up to few days ago, the only way to root the Wildfire S was using the XTC-Clip to get S-OFF (if it wasn’t already). Now, on the 8 of December 2012, it’s not necessary anymore! Please be aware that in the next few days the following procedure may not be up to date.

1. First you need to UNLOCK the BOOTLOADER, you just follow the procedure on HTC dev website: http://www.htcdev.com/bootloader at the end of this step you should see the ULOCKED in the boot menu of your phone
2. The phone now is still S-ON, and it will remain like that but we will be able to root it anyways!
3. Then we could just use the HTC Super Tool (v3): http://barbey.me/ but in my case a little trick was necessary, so just download and unzip it for now
4. Download and install (if you haven’t already done during step 1) the android SDK: http://developer.android.com/sdk/index.html
5. Now the trick is overwriting the file adb.exe from the SDK with the one of the Super Tool
6. Start the Super Tool and follow steps 1 and 3 or 1 and 2, the reboot!
7. To check if it’s finally rooted use for instance this app

Have fun!

Getting a static address

If your ISP provides a static IP then you’re done, you can just use it or link it to a domain (so called DNS Domain Name System). Otherwise if you have a dynamic IP you may use, for instance, the free DynDns Host Service to link the every-time-changing IP to a custom url (ie mycustomurl.dyndns.org) that you could eventually re-link to a domain of yours. After setting up an account on DynDns see Dynamic DNS page (or similar) on your router interface; plus I also suggest to set up a DynDns client (on the HTS) cause sometimes my router itself failed to tell DynDns the change of IP…

Turning on the device

Unlikely I have a NETGEAR DG834G router, it would have been easier to remotely turn the HTS on with a newer one.. Anyway here are two main things you need to check before starting:

1. Your HTS matherboard supports Wake On Lan (WOL) and it is connected via ethernet cable to the network
2. Your router supports the sending of magic packets over the internet (WOL over the internet) OR it supports remote management and local WOL (my case)

If these conditions are not met, I’m sorry but you will not be able to turn it on remotely. Otherwise, first activate WOL on your device (the HTS) both from the driver setting and from the bios settings. Now if your router supports WOL over the internet you may just  set a port forwarder and download a tool like these: windows android iphone or use an online interface. Done!

Such in the case of my old Netgear this was not possible, by the way a nice workaround made it possible! Steps are: enable remote management on the router and have it to turn on the the HTS. If your router doesn’t have these features try installing an unofficial firmware (I’m using FreeDGv1.37 by SoftWord). In my case remote management is only working on port 80, I don’t know why (even setting port forwarders and stuff on other ports, mah), so if I visit mycustomurl.com I can access my router admin interface. From its WOL page we could turn any device just by inserting their IP and MAC address, to have this done easyer you may just a custom url as: http://mycustomurl.com/wol.cgi?ip=INSERT_HERE_IP_ADDRESS&mac=INSERT_HERE_MAC_ADDRESS (in this case valid form my netgear model). Also, I don’t know why but this is working only if I use as IP address 192.168.0.255 while it should instead be 192.168.0.2. Make sure to have a strong router password since now your private network may be more exposed to other people (never give the custom url to other people!).

In fact in both cases, to have your port forwarding work you need to set a static LAN IP to your device (local IP for my HTS should always be the same!), in netgear’s interface it is called LAN IP Setup.

Accessing

Now the fun part! There are lots of different ways to access you device now, via GUI (Graphical User Interface) or shell for instance, here the ones I use the most:

1. built in web interface. Most softwares as Transmission, Utorrent and XBMC have the option to control your torrents/files via the browser, just make sure to port-forward the correct ports on your router (without messing up)
2. shell. If using linux or macs this is great once you get started, you will be able to do everything!
3. GUI. Using the great TeamViewer or the built in remote control for Ubuntu (having RealVNC or androidVNC clients on the other non-linux device)
4. ftp/sftp. Just enable a ftp/sftp server on the HTS (ie filezilla if it’s win) and a client on the other device
5. using the HTS as asever. Thus accessing files via the web browser with some online file manager

If using a Unix device have also a look here.

Happy distance-nerding!

Gisèl

Telaio Champion pista 53,5×56, probabilmente un Gitane rebrandizzato
Cerchi NISI HR 22 per copertoncino, Mozzi Miche Primato Pista flangia bassa, ruote assemblate da Cornale Cicli
Guarnitura Ofmega strada, corona Gipiemme pista 50T, pignone Miche 17T
Pedali Campagnolo Chorus, gabbiette Campagnolo, cinghietti Christophe (si lo so mancano i bulloncini per le gabbiette)
Attacco manubrio 3ttt, piega 3ttt Gimondi
Sella San Marco Regal, reggisella Campagnolo Chorus
Movimento centrale Stronglight, serie sterzo sconosciuta, già presenti sul telaio

Ed ecco i due buoni tra cui potete scegliere CODICE: W0SBPMASQ1YIXKIHB

I “problemi” che ho avuto finora sono stati principalmente:

• il telaio – tenete conto che andrete a spendere 200-400€ in componenti (se fate come me) per fissarvi la bici, ha quindi senso prendere un telaio schifoso? Probabilmente no! O meglio, almeno controllate che questo sia DRITTO e che le geometrie non siano troppo rilassate. Consigliere quindi di iniziare magari con un telaio di bici da corsa (senza spendere troppo). Ci sarà poi tempo più avanti di investire in un ferro da pista, ma nel mio caso ho fatto l’errore di prendere un telaio con i forcellini posteriori abbastanza storti (e comunque possibile raddrizzarli).
• la trasmissione – la guarnitura da me scelta era una Lasco, dopo ben poco tempo ho notato fenomeni di ovalizzazione della corona e di “sbeccamento” dei denti.. Leggendo sui forum pare essere un problema comune con guarniture di bassa qualità. Tutto ciò aggravato da una linea catena storta (a causa dei forcellini piegati^^) e dallo spessore ridotto 3/32″ della corona (bici da corsa e multimarcia) invece che 1/8″ (standard da pista). Consiglierei quindi di investire un po’ di più e comunque prendere componenti da 1/8″. Una soluzione valida e  abbastanza economica può essere di comprare separatamente le pedivelle di una guarnitura (da strada o da pista) e di montarci sopra una corona da pista. In questo caso l’unico avvertimento è che la misura dei due sia compatibile ovvero che abbiano lo stesso girobulloni (abbr. bcd).

Tra le altre cose vorrei segnalare la possibilità di trasformare un mozzo normale (ruota libera) in uno fisso utilizzando fixkin risparmiando così diversi euri nell’acquisto.

Per finire qualche foto del mio mezzo dopo un “upgrade”, noterete il nuovo (anche se vecchio) telaio (marca trarovi, anche se a breve verrà ri-sostituito da un pista) e il manubrio da pista.