Sophie’s World

Pictou, birthplace of Nova Scotia

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Wed, 22 May 2013 07:17:07 +0000

Travelling between the Canadian mainland and Prince Edward Island, you have two options: you can either travel cross the 13-km long construction marvel that is Confederation Bridge, or take the ferry from Caribou in Nova Scotia. We tried both.

Luckily for us, we had time to kill whilst waiting for the ferry, and decided to have a look at the nearest town, Pictou. This is the first sight that met us:

I love old sail ships and was pleased to discover this beauty in Pictou harbour. This is a replica of the ship Hector. On 15 September 1773, 200 highlanders reached the shores of New Scotland (Nova Scotia) as the first Scottish immigrants in Canada. It had been a long and arduous journey – 11 weeks in inclement weather. Among the passengers, 18 children died on the way, of dysentrey and smallpox.

However, much like today, highlanders weren’t easily deterred. Over the coming years, thousands of Scots followed in their wake.

The Scottish influence is still obvious, especially on Pictou’s lamp posts:

At Hector Heritage Quay, you can wander around the outbuildings…

… and of course, go aboard and have a look around the ship.

Pictou practicals

Pictou is about 150 km from Halifax, an easy drive along Trans-Canada Highway 104. Hector Heritage Quay is open between late May and late October.

Do you like old sail ships? Have you perhaps visited Pictou?

Want to see more travel photos? Have a look at this week’s Travel Photo Thursday.

Pictou, birthplace of Nova Scotia is a post from Sophie's World

World at a Glance: Green bikes – and scooters – in Amsterdam

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Fri, 17 May 2013 08:27:06 +0000

World at a Glance is a series here on Sophie’s World, portraying curious, evocative, happy, sad, wondrous, unexpected little encounters.

As I write this I’m on my way to the Netherlands, never mind it being 17 May, Norway’s national day, which, you may recall, is bigger than Christmas.

Last time I was here was on a blistering cold and wet day in December. But rain, sleet or snow – the weather is no hindrance for getting around by bike. Same in Norway, can’t let the weather rule your daily life too much, so come winter, we exchange summer tyres for snow tyres, often studded – on cars and on bikes.

In the city centre of Amsterdam, next to one of the city’s many canals, I drifted past a shop hiring out green bikes. A more unusual alternative were these green scooters (green in colour, at least, not so sure about emissions), a fun alternative to bikes if you’re feeling a bit lazy.

This time, amongst other fun stuff, I’m looking forward to biking on Scheveningen Beach, using a special fat rider (yeah, I’m not entirely sure what that is either; will let you know). And to testing a new odd place to sleep: a sea container.

What is the quirkiest place you’ve slept in?

Disclosure: My quirky sleeping quarters, beach biking and… well, other fun stuff, come courtesy of Visit Holland.

World at a Glance: Green bikes – and scooters – in Amsterdam is a post from Sophie's World

Viva Bahia, a fabulous Majorca family hotel

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Wed, 15 May 2013 17:47:10 +0000

The Viva Bahia is located on the northern coast of Majorca, just steps away from a lovely beach, Playa Muro, in the Bay of Alcudia. This is a large hotel, more a resort really, and we were there for only three days, not nearly enough time to sample all the goodies on offer. That said, we did have a good look about and really enjoyed our stay. Cat didn’t want to leave. Kids have a lot to do with that. Goat kids, that is.

The apartments

Viva Bahia has 266 spacious apartments, decorated in a Scandinavian style: light, airy, functional and slightly minimalistic. The large sitting room comes with a flat-screen TV and a well-equipped kitchenette – in case you feel like cooking on holiday. (I always sorta kinda mean to, but never do. I fill up the fridge, and then quickly forget about it). The bedroom has a large comfortable bed and no TV, I’m happy to report (a pet peeve of mine, they just don’t belong). We were there in April, early in the season, and evenings were a bit chilly. But no worries, plenty of blankets in the cupboard.

The sitting room and the bedroom have a lovely balcony each, with ocean and pool views. Very convenient if you have children old enough to be in the pool by themselves, but you want to keep an eye on things without actually being in the middle of the bedlam.

Free wifi is available thrughout most of the hotel: in the rooms, the common areas and around the pool.

The food

Viva Bahia has several restaurants. We were out and about so much, we only had time to try two of them: the pool bar La Palapa (sandwiches, pizzas, salads, meat, fish – and wonderful views!) and the buffet restaurant Caprice, offering just about anything you can imagine, including a pasta chef whipping up just the pasta sauce you want. And the desserts… ooh lala!

Of course since it’s a family restaurant – and a buffet – there will be kids back and forth. Could have been just luck, but when we were there, all the children were well behaved: no yelling, no running.

For kids

The Viva Bahia is for children. Playgrounds are creative and colourful, on dry land and in the shallow splash pool. There’s even a pirate ship (but no Captain Jack Sparrow, I’m sad to say)

Play clubs and a wide selection of entertainment and excursions are available for kids 4 – 17. Cat’s favourite was an animal enclosure, home to ducks, swans and adorable kids. In fact, she insisted I make the baby goats a major feature of the review, hence three photos.

Sports and gardens

Viva Bahia has an extensive, lovely garden, a gymnasium and outdoor courts for a variety of sports, including tennis. A small minigolf course, ping-pong and billiards, petanque and beach volleyball are also on offer. Bicycles can be hired at reception (as well as motorbikes and cars). Really, I can’t think of anything missing.

Ready for the pièce de résistance?

Viva Bahia has treats for grown-ups too. There’s an indoor jacuzzi, sauna, spa and massage service. But here’s my favourite:

I absolutely loved this beautiful chill-out pool/jacuzzi with Balinese beds, reserved for adults; the perfect place for parents’ private time, say when the kids are on an excursion with the play club.

Convinced?

Hop over to Travel Photo Thursday for more travel inspiration.

Disclosure: In Majorca, we were guests of Viva hotels and No Frills Excursions. As always, we’re free to write about anything we want and retain full editorial control

Viva Bahia, a fabulous Majorca family hotel is a post from Sophie's World

Greece: A guide for history buffs

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Sun, 12 May 2013 19:26:51 +0000

I haven’t been in Greece for a while, but a trip is in the works. Meanwhile, I’ve asked Kristy Moore, a travel writer with a particular interest in Europe’s historical attractions, to share her Greek history faves. Here’s Kristy:

There’s probably no holiday destination more famous for its fantastically rich history than Greece. Peppered with archaeological wonders, the country is a veritable haven for history enthusiasts. In fact, there are so many amazing sites to visit that it’d be nigh on impossible to fit them all into one blog post! So, for the purposes of today, I’m just going to focus on my personal favourites.

Delphi

First on my list is Delphi, which the ancient Greeks believed was the centre of the world. While that might not be true, what is undeniable is that this is easily one of the most impressive archaeological sites you’re ever likely to see.

In classical Greek times, Delphi had the most important oracle, with everyone from kings to common people coming here to seek advice. Today, you can see the magnificent Temple of Apollo – which was once impossibly grand – as well as the stadium that used to host the Pythian Games.

While you’re here, make sure you take the time to visit the local archaeological museum, where you can view all kinds of fascinating artworks; it’s a particularly good place to see some classical sculptures.

The Acropolis of Athens

Possibly the most famous archaeological site in Greece, if not the world, the Acropolis of Athens is an absolute must-visit. Sacred Rock stands in the heart of the city, so no matter where you are here, you’re never far from a reminder of the metropolis’s ancient heritage. This UNESCO World Heritage site is home to classical Greece’s most celebrated structures, notably the Parthenon, which was dedicated to the goddess Athena.

While this might be the best known of the structures to see here, it’s by no means the only treasure on offer. For example, opposite the Parthenon is the Erechtheion, while you can also get a close look at the world’s most ancient theatre, the Theatre of Dionysus. A relatively new addition to Sacred Rock is the Acropolis Museum, where you can see a selection of the treasures dug up here.

Knossos

Located in the suburbs of Heraklion on the island of Crete, Knossos is another must-visit – especially if you’re interested in Minoan civilisation, since this is its most famous site. Indeed, the Palace of Knossos acted not only as a royal residence, but also as the Minoan culture’s political heart, so it has an incredibly rich history.

Come here and you can explore old royal apartments in the east wing, as well as storage rooms – sometimes referred to as magazines – in the sprawling, maze-like structure of the old palace. In its heyday, this building spanned an impressive 22 000 sq metres.

A quick note on the night of the full moon

While these sites are well worth visiting at any time of the year, there are some months that are better than others. Personally, I think the night of the full moon in August is the best time to visit places like the Acropolis, since traditionally on this night these ancient sites come alive with various forms of entertainment.

For instance, you can head up to Sacred Rock and hear classical music or opera and see a Greek dance performance in the spectacularly lit surroundings of the ancient buildings. And, as an added bonus, it’s absolutely free.

What are your favourite historical sites in Greece? Leave a comment and let us know, and visit http://www.sovereign.com/destinations/Greece for some handy accommodation ideas.

This article is brought to you in cooperation with Sovereign Luxury Travel

Photo credits: Wikimedia Commons – Delphi and Acropolis, Knossos – Rick Payette, and Acropolis full moon – spapax.

Greece: A guide for history buffs is a post from Sophie's World

Norfolk Coast Path: horizons

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Fri, 10 May 2013 18:59:48 +0000

This week’s #frifotos* theme is horizons. My thoughts immediately go to water – and ships in the distance. But then they wander – my thoughts, that is – to a slightly modified version: the boats along the coast of Norfolk.

Norfolk Coast Path is part of a national trail running from Hunstanton to Sheringham, 150 km total. The path offers incredibly varied landscape: rivers and valleys, windmills and villages with quirky and quintessentially English names like Wells-next-the-Sea or Burnham Overy Staithe. There’s farmland and little harbours, cliffs and ocean, beaches, dunes and marshes. Notice the fishing boats on the horizon? A few years ago, I walked parts of Norfolk Coast Path and I was oddly mesmerised by these boats looking forlorn and out of their element, just waiting for the water to return. I took this photo near Brancaster.

The area is designated as AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty). Not everything along Norfolk Coast Path is pretty, though: loose, corrugated iron flaps on ramshackle buildings, rusty tin roofs look like they’ll cave in any moment – and some of the boats have definitely seen better years. But that’s hardly nature’s fault. And even these less-than-stunning bits lend an interesting air to the walk.

Norfolk Coast Path is an easy and very accessible hike, whether you walk the entire length or just parts of it. The Coasthopper bus follows the path fairly closely (half-hourly in summer), so you can walk one way and take the bus back – or simply hop on the bus if you get tired of walking. Couldn’t be easier.

If you’re in England and tempted to give it a go, there’s heaps more information to be found at the official website.

Norfolk Coast Path is just one of many wonderful walks in Britain. Have you tried any of them?

*#FriFotos is a weekly Twitter chat where travellers share their favourite photos. Each week has a theme.

Norfolk Coast Path: horizons is a post from Sophie's World

The lonely convent

Alexandra Redisch — Mon, 06 May 2013 22:45:48 +0000

Once upon a time there was a convent. This convent was very old and tired, its walls were falling down and the roof had many holes. The convent was sad because no one lived there anymore. And it was used to having many occupants; the nuns of the Confraternity of Saint Mary of the Disciplined had lived there for many years, and St. Francis himself had even stayed there once. But the nuns were long gone, and the convent thought it would never be lived in again. It was all terribly upsetting.

But one day, the Marquis Giacinto Guglielmi of Civitavecchia came along and bought the old convent. He mended the holes in the roof and replaced the walls that were no more, and soon the convent was born again as Villa Guglielmi; a beautiful palace on Isola Maggiore, surrounded by Lake Trasimeno.

Marquis Guglielmi and his wife now lived in the convent, along with their daughter Elena. The convent was happy, but still it wanted more. Three people were surely not enough for such a large house. Elena felt the same way too. She was often bored, and she wanted to socialise with other girls in the fishing villages along the coast. She also wanted to do some good for the community, so she started teaching local girls how to make lace.

Italian lace

Lace making became very popular, and soon all the girls came to Villa Guglielmi to participate. One year they had thirty students who came daily to the villa to make crochet-hook lace. The convent was very happy now. There was energy bouncing off the walls, and the convent could feel this deep within her stone walls. The students were happy too. They made table cloths and dresses and all kinds of beautiful lace creations that they sold to rich girls from Florence, Rome, and Perugia.

The school became so popular that a specialist in Irish lace came all the way from Turin to train girls at Villa Gugliemli. The convent was very proud to have such a special guest under her roof. Signorina Elvira Tosetti was the first to learn this new art of lace making. She started showing it to other girls in the nearby fishing villages, and when they grew up they taught their daughters how to make lace as well.

Sadly, the Guglielmi family didn’t stay very long in the convent. Elenas children didn’t want to live on such a small island, and once again the convent was left to itself. It was scared that the walls would start crumbling again, but happily it didn’t stay this way for long.

Even though no one lives there anymore, the convent is still happy, because it is now used as a lace museum where you can see examples of the lace that Elena and her pupils made. But the convent would love even more visitors to bring energy to her old stones, so perhaps you could make the journey next time you’re in Italy? If you go there, follow the Via Guglielmi to the old convent, and you will see women making lace in front of their houses along the way. This old tradition is very important on Isola Maggiore, and the convent feels very proud to be a part of it, and is certainly not sad or lonely anymore.

Landscape surrounding the former convent.

Disclosure: On Isola Maggiore, I was a guest of Trasimeno Tourist Office and Umbria Regional Tourism Board. As ever, all opinions are mine, all mine.

The lonely convent is a post from Sophie's World

A taste of New Orleans

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Wed, 01 May 2013 22:26:38 +0000

We don’t often do restaurants reviews here on Sophie’s World. I’ve had heaps of sumptuous meals, but I find that one is often quite like another. I’ll also admit, it isn’t one of my major interests – unless it’s something curious or exceptional, like the little restaurant in Geneva that has only one item on the menu – or cooking outdoors, whether it’s pizza in the Italian countryside or lunch in rustic Mallorca.

In New Orleans, food often means music, too.

During our recent visit in the Crescent City, we were given ample opportunity to taste New Orleans. I was pleased to discover food that’s truly unique, and completely unlike anywhere else. But don’t just take my word for it. In a recent interview, celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain chooses New Orleans as the top food destination in the USA.

The New Orleans CVB hosted our stay in town and they sent us off to sample a variety of cafes and restaurants. Others we either stumbled upon, or were recommended by random, friendly locals. In one case, we were simply intrigued by the long queue outside on a cold and rainy day. Some we liked, others less so. Here are our five favourites:

5. Cafe du Monde

Having coffee and beignets at Cafe du Monde is a must-try New Orleans experience. This iconic cafe is from 1862, open 24/7 and located in the French Market. You don’t come here for the extensive menu, in fact, the menu fits at the side of the serviette holder, and contains essentially one thing: beignet, a fried piece of dough, overflowing with powdered sugar. Beignets are served in orders of three – and luckily we were three, because one of these sweet dough squares is just enough. The coffee is plain black or cafe-au-lait, creamy New Orleans-style. No skimmed milk option here.

4. Mother’s

In an old brick building on Poydras Street, Mother’s is one of New Orleans’ most famous restaurants – and has been since they opened their doors in 1938. We were invited for breakfast here on our first morning in town.

The speciality, as you might have gleaned, is baked ham – world’s best, no less – so naturally we had to give it a go. Cat, the most non-veg of us was given the task of sampling this delicacy. She ate and ate, the little one, but still had heaps left on her plate. Alex had pancakes, and struggled with her portion as well. I had biscuits (the American version, similar to a scone) with scrambled eggs and the noted ham. Everything tasted very good, but we were a bit overwhelmed by the portions. Could be the jetlag, of course.

3. Cafe Maspero

Cafe Maspero is located on Decatur Street in the French Quarter, and this is where we were drawn to the queue outside. Maspero is very budget-friendly, which goes some way to account for its popularity, I expect. We sampled more typical New Orleans fare: a po-boy and a muffaletta filled with ham, salami and pastrami, a vegetarian’s nightmare if ever there was one. Fortunately, there was also a vegetarian Muffaletta on offer. All tasty. All huge.

With high, arched ceiling and tile floors, it felt like being in a cellar, very atmospheric. And as with many buildings in New Orleans, this one comes with a dramatic history: this was once an auction house for slaves, The Maspero Exchange.

2. The Court of Two Sisters

At The Court of Two Sisters, we were invited for a weekend jazz brunch. I loved the atmosphere here: a magical garden, very old world, very Creole – indoors and out, with soft jazz playing in the background. Sadly, it was too cold and rainy to be outside. The garden must be a perfect place to linger for hours over coffee.

Now, I’m not normally very keen on buffets. Heaping salads and fish and meat and cheeses together on one plate isn’t my idea of a nice meal – which means I have to go back and forth lots. Frankly, it’s a hassle.

However, this buffet was so interesting and full of colours and flavours that I didn’t mind one bit. Sweet, salt, healthy – the Court of Two Sisters serves everything. In addition to all the traditional breakfast dishes, there were Creole omelets, grillades and meats, chicken & andouille gumbo, grits, glazed sweet potatoes, turtle soup au cherry, fresh fruits, Bananas Foster, King cake and heaps more. And a boat loaded with sea food.

1. Remoulade

Remoulade is located on Bourbon Street. Must admit to feeling skeptical when I discovered that. After all, Bourbon Street is… well, Bourbon Street. Not the most child-friendly place to be on a Saturday night. But once inside, the seedy street was forgotten. Remoulade has a cosy, warm and glowing atmosphere, inviting people to chat (but not too loudly).

Remoulade is the informal little sister of the famous Arnaude’s right around the corner. A big thumbs up for service here. We had reservations for 7pm. Alex had visited plantations (post coming up) and didn’t make it back to town until nearly 8. Meanwhile, Cat and I took up a table, talking, playing Yahtzee and sharing a plate of yummy N’awlins Nachos. The place was crowded, so I would have expected the waiters to be a bit impatient with us, but instead we received top-notch service with just the right amount of attentiveness (too much is just as annoying as too little).

When she finally arrived, we ordered our mains. Alex had blackened catfish, served with potatoes and spices. Today, more than two months later, she still remembers the meal fondly. Cat went for a traditional cheeseburger and I had my first Jambalaya, with lovely prawns, chicken, andouille sausage, honey baked ham, vegetables and rice, spices and a delicious creole sauce. Portions were just the right size.

For dessert, I had bread pudding from Arnaud’s next door – filled with rum-soaked raisins, custard and warm whiskey sauce (Bourbon, of course). Alex chose fresh strawberries marinated in spices, lemon, red wine and port, with French vanilla ice cream. Cat only had the vanilla ice cream (that’s how she rolls). The verdict on all our desserts: Heavenly!

Do you like Cajun food? Do you have a favourite New Orleans restaurant?

Disclosure: In New Orleans, we were guests of New Orleans Conventions & Visitors Bureau. However, we’re free to write about anything we like, as always.

It’s Thursday, so do hop over to Travel Photo Thursday for more temptations.

A taste of New Orleans is a post from Sophie's World

World at a Glance: Digging for crystals in Jet

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Sun, 28 Apr 2013 11:45:25 +0000

World at a Glance is an infrequent series here on Sophie’s World, portraying curious, evocative, happy, sad, wondrous, unexpected little encounters. Today’s episode belongs in the curious category.

Where do you think this salt flat is? The famous Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia? The Chott-el-Djerid in Tunisia? Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah?

Nope, this is the less famous, but no less impressive, Salt Plains National Wildlife Refuge in Jet, Oklahoma – within Great Salt Plains State Park.

Last time I was in Oklahoma, my American mum (my host mother from when I was an exchange student), was showing me around the western part of the state, when she announced we would stop and dig for crystals in a great salt lake.

Salt lake? That’s unexpected, as Oklahoma is far away from the sea. But that wasn’t always so. Millions of years ago, during the Permian Period, this area had mountain ranges and was covered by an ocean. (Standing on the flat, dry plains of Oklahoma today, both are a bit difficult to visualise). Over time, the mountains wore down and the sea water evaporated, leaving thick layers of salt. The salt helps form a rare and unusual type of selenite crystals, found nowhere else in the world.

Now, this is Oklahoma, so of course we drive onto the salt flats. We also wander along on the salt, sit on it, become nearly blind staring at it, and – dig for crystals.

Apart from salt and crystals, the Salt Plains National Wildlife Refuge is home to more than 300 species of birds, including the endangered whooping crane. This is classified as the largest saline flat in the central lowlands of North America and yet, it’s hardly famous. Why not? You tell me.

Next time you’re passing through Oklahoma, don’t just pass through. Bring your shovel – you can dig for crystals between 1 April and 15 October.

World at a Glance: Digging for crystals in Jet is a post from Sophie's World

Rural Majorca

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Wed, 24 Apr 2013 22:08:34 +0000

My youngest daughter Catarina and I have just spent a few days in Majorca. We were in the north of the island, at Playa de Muro, far away from the party beaches down south – very, very far away – in distance as well as state of mind. We spent one long, lovely day in rural Majorca, outback Majorca – shopping ingredients at the market, sampling local produce, then cooking lunch outdoors. Just a fab day all round.

Our guide is Michael, a Brit, island resident for 12 years, and passionate about everything Mallorquín.

First stop of the day is the Thursday market in Inca, third largest town in Majorca, and home of Camper shoes. No shoe shopping for me today alas, but there’s time for a browse. The market is huge and just about anything is for sale: basket ware, sunglasses, and an impressive assortment of bras.

And then, of course, there’s bunyols, (buñuelos in Spanish), fried dough balls topped with sugar; doughnuts, really.

An abundance of colours, textures, flavours…

We buy mild, white onions, equally mild green peppers, large beef tomatoes, and for the pa amb oli, the smaller tomàtiga de Ramellet, firm on the outside, soft on the inside, with a more intense and slightly bitter taste; perfect for rubbing on fresh bread.

We stop in Binissalem, a sweet little village in the rolling hills of Majorca’s wine region. Binissalem… sounds Arabic, no? Means sons of Salem, if I remember my Arabic correctly. The Moors once ruled this island, as they did much of Spain. More than 1 000 years before the Moors, however, the Romans lounged about here, occupying the island and drinking wine. As far back as the 1st century AD, Majorcan wine is mentioned in Roman manuscripts.

Well, certainly can’t break such a long and prominent tradition, now, can we? The only thing to do is sample the local products. We wander in through the doors of a small bodega, home of Ca’n Novell wines, sold from the barrel for next to nothing.

Our little group try six different wines, beginning with young whites and reds, then moving on to an older red, and then sweet dessert wines, one yummier than the next. (Of course Cat, like most 11-year-olds, fails to see the charm of a country wine tasting and uses the opportunity to check out yet another show jumping vid on YouTube).

Cooking in rural Majorca

Finally, we’re off to the finca, our cooking venue for the day. In the garden of this curious house, we hand over meat – pollo y cerdo – to Juan, barbeque chef extraordinaire, then get on with chopping ingredients for a trampo, a traditional Majorcan salad…

…and making the pa amb oli, also typical of this region – and one of life’s simple pleasures: delicious, healthy and, as a bonus, very easy to make: you take a hefty piece of fresh peasant bread, rub it with half a tomato, drizzle on some very good local olive oil, then sprinkle on salt. That’s it. Even I can do it. And that’s saying something…

Stay tuned for more on Majorca in the weeks to come. Horses will feature prominently. In the meantime, if you want to see more travel photos from around the world, head to Travel Photo Thursday or Friday Daydreamin’.

Disclosure: In Majorca, we were guests of Viva hotels and No Frills Excursions. Of course we’re free to write about anything we want, as ever.

Rural Majorca is a post from Sophie's World

World at a Glance: Republic of Hout Bay

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Sun, 21 Apr 2013 20:15:47 +0000

World at a Glance is an infrequent series here on Sophie’s World, portraying curious, evocative, happy, sad, wondrous, unexpected little encounters.

After a thought-provoking visit in the Imizamo Yethu township (post to come) in Cape Town, my friend Ingrid and I hopped off the bus at Hout Bay, for us a random stop along the ocean. It seemed the right place to be for a little while, just wandering along the beach, clearing the mind. I loved all the blue: the ocean, the sky, the fishing boats.

What’s more, Hout Bay is, or was, a micronation. Some say this was merely a publicity stunt created to draw tourists in the 80s, others claim it was a left-wing artists’ protest against apartheid. Whatever the reason, the Republic of Hout Bay had its own flag, national anthem, dress, and passport. These days, only the passport remains.

A few rumours persist: during apartheid, white South Africans used Republic of Hout Bay passports to visit African countries that at the time didn’t recognise South African passports. Furthermore, a local is said to have travelled half the world on his Hout Bay passport.

World at a Glance: Republic of Hout Bay is a post from Sophie's World

Mississippi paddlewheeling – and the War of 1812

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Wed, 17 Apr 2013 22:02:41 +0000

Rambling along New Orleans’ riverside one day, we come upon the Creole Queen. She is about to sail down the river. Do we want to come along? Now or never…

Of course we hop on – and are glad we did. It wouldn’t feel right to be in New Orleans without boating the mighty Mississippi in one of the iconic paddlewheelers.

As we leave New Orleans, we look back towards the Crescent City skyline. Along the way, the captain elaborates on the city’s history, landmarks along the way, passing ships (I now know a ship painted orange means she’s carrying dangerous goods), the good old days when steam ships were how one got around, and of course, Hurricane Katrina. Seven years later, much is left to mend. The devastation left in her wake is still very noticeable.

The Battle of New Orleans – and a plantation

Turns out, we have signed up for war. The War of 1812, no less.

As we disembark, we spot a small plantation, the Malus-Beauregard House. We’re at Chalmette battleground, Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, the site of the 1815 Battle of New Orleans. This was the final Battle of the War of 1812.

Now, I don’t know about you, but when I hear War of 1812, I think Napoleon, the Grande Armée entering Moscow, scorched-earth tactics, Tchaikovsky’s 1812 Overture, in short: Europe.

This is a different War of 1812 (though Britain was involved in both) – one between Britain and the USA, seen by some as a second war of independence, and meant perhaps to settle unresolved issues from the one nearly 40 years earlier. The Americans declared war for a number of reasons. One was British trade restrictions. Thing is, the trade restrictions were in fact abolished two days before the war; only the Americans didn’t hear about it in time. News didn’t travel as fast back then. Another reason was British support of Indians who opposed American expansionism. In fact, Britain demanded an Indian state in the Midwest, from Ohio to Wisconsin. Interesting to ponder whether things would have been much different if that had come to pass…

As we all know, it didn’t. The war came to an end with the Treaty of Ghent signed in December 1814, one month before this final battle. Odd, eh? Well, a treaty isn’t worth much until it’s ratified by all parties, and the Americans did this in February 1815. There’s of course much more to say about this war than this fragmented and incomplete résumé. But this is a travel blog, after all.

Wandering around the battlefield, it’s difficult – as it always is – to imagine this green, peaceful place to have been the site of murder and carnage. Same as in Flanders; hard to visualise the pretty poppy fields soaked with blood.

Further along…

It’s a chilly, wet day, so we’re glad to return to the Creole Queen. Back at the port we see this girl:

I’d like to take a longer steam boat journey along the Mississippi and this seems to be the lady to do it with. The American Queen sails all the way to Chattanooga, Vicksburg, Paducah, Memphis, St Louis, St Paul, Pittsburgh… all kinds of exotic locales, some I’ve never even heard about. I’m picturing ladies with long, white dresses, poker games in the salon, having to duck when someone brandishes a gun, a youngish Mel Gibson…

Mississippi paddlewheeling practicals

In New Orleans, two paddlewheelers ply the mighty Mississippi: the Natchez and the Creole Queen. If you’re in the French Quarter, just head towards the river and you’ll see one or the other.
Natchez offers harbour cruises and Creole Queen goes up to the battlefield. Both do jazz/dinner cruises.
A battlefield trip on the Creole Queen cost USD 25/13 for adults/under 12s and lasts about 3 hours. A very inexpensive buffet meal is available on board

Disclosure: In New Orleans, we were guests of New Orleans CVB. As ever, we can write about anything we want to. Or not.

Mississippi paddlewheeling – and the War of 1812 is a post from Sophie's World

Lighthouse living

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Mon, 15 Apr 2013 10:00:04 +0000

Tree houses, ice hotels, 747s, caves and grottos, houses made of cow dung, caravans, sheep sheds, the beach,… I do like quirky sleeps, though it has been a while, meaning I’ve shoddy or no photos, so I haven’t covered many here on Sophie’s World. That’s about to change.

If you’ve poked around on this blog a bit, you will also have seen that I adore lighthouses. And thanks to adventurous colleagues in a former job, I’ve been lucky enough to spend the night in one. Instead of choosing an ordinary business hotel in say London, the organising committee for an annual internal seminar chose Landegode lighthouse in Nordland, in the Arctic.

Landegode lighthouse is situated on an islet near Landegode Island, a few kilometres off the coast of Bodø, the first proper city above the Arctic Circle. If you’ve seen photos of the midnight sun – or the elusive Northern Lights – chances are good they were taken at Landegode. Not only did my colleagues choose this fabulous location for our meeting, we also arrived there in style; no, not by helicopter, but in rough Norwegian style, by ocean rafting in the freezing waters of the Arctic. Super fast and super fun.

The islet houses nothing but the lighthouse buildings. That, and birds, views and beautiful sunsets.

Sunset at around 11pm. This was May, so a bit early for the midnight sun.

Beers at dusk:

I don’t have any pictures from inside the lighthouse. Before I began blogging, I wasn’t in the habit of photographing absolutely everything. However, the accommodations were nice enough, nothing luxurious, but clean and comfortable, indoor plumbing’n'all. We stayed in the lighthouse keeper’s cottage.

Want to try a little lighthouse living yourself?

If you’re on your own, you can’t stay at Landegode, that’s only for groups. No worries, though: Norway’s long, ruggedly gorgeous coastline is dotted with lighthouses and 60 of them offer accommodation, from the soft, rolling landscape of the south, to the windswept shores of 70 degrees north, and many others in between.

At some lighthouses, you’ll be all on your lonesome on a solitary rock in the middle of the North Sea. At others, you might share space (not sleeping space… unless you want to) with the local community, as in hanging at the pub with local fishermen with a sense of humour as rough as the landscape (think Australian). Not for the overly sensitive.

I’m frequently at Lista in southern Norway, and we usually make a point of visiting the lighthouse there. Lista lighthouse is now open for sleepovers, so we might give that a try this summer. Will keep you posted.

Have you ever slept in a lighthouse? Do you want to?

Lighthouse living is a post from Sophie's World

Hello again, Majorca

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Fri, 12 Apr 2013 15:04:27 +0000

Next week, I’m off to visit Majorca. That’s a sentence I haven’t said in many years.

The name Majorca (or Mallorca) conjures up to Northern Europeans what I imagine the name Acapulco does to Americans: package holidays, pig roasts, loud pop music blasting from shops and cafes on busy seaside streets, embarrassingly drunk fellow countrymen…

Like the Costa Brava, the Costa Blanca and the Canary Islands, Majorca was one of the ‘original’ package holiday destinations. In Norway, this type of holiday is referred to as a trip to Syden, meaning the south. Syden is a generic term encompassing Spain, Italy, Greece, Turkey – and sometimes even Florida and Thailand. Doesn’t matter where you go, as long as there’s sun, sand and cheap alcohol.

I must admit the reputation put me off these destinations, including Majorca, for years. My loss, it’s a lovely island with lots to offer. And it’s very easy to stray off the beaten path, i.e. keep away from the Syden-trippers.

I first visited Majorca with Alex when she was 11. That was in 1999 – and we enjoyed our little holiday there so much we returned the next year. That doesn’t happen often. I specifically remember four things from Majorca:

Cabo Formentor – a gorgeous rocky headland in the northwest of the island (photo),
Hearing a piano and violin-concerto performed from a rowing boat on an underground small lake in Cuevas del Drach (the Dragon’s caves),
Valldemossa – a hill town very near the island capital Palma – and especially the Carthusian monastery where Frédéric Chopin and Aurore Dudevant (better knwon as George Sand) spent a few winter months to combat the famous composer’s tuberculosis.
Palma itself – a smaller version of Barcelona, with much less traffic

A while ago, I was thinking it was time to take Cat, my present 11-year-old, along to visit Majorca. As fate would have it, just a few days later, an email from Viva hotels popped in, inviting us to come and have a look. Must be fate.

I look forward to seeing if the island has changed much in the last 13 years. Posts will be forthcoming, with much better photos than the scanned old thing above.

Have you been in Majorca recently? Any tips?

Hello again, Majorca is a post from Sophie's World

Seductive Sintra

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Mon, 08 Apr 2013 11:00:12 +0000

A few years ago – 4, to be exact, I had some time to kill in Lisbon after long days of meetings. As luck would have it, I more or less stumbled upon Sintra. I’ve been meaning to share a few photos of this gorgeous town ever since. Better late than never, eh?

Sintra is under special protection by UNESCO for being the first centre of European Romantic architecture, and for its parks and gardens which have influenced landscape architecture throughout Europe. The town is a deliciously quirky blend of Gothic, Renaissance, Moorish and Egyptian architecture.

As if that isn’t enough, this lucky town also has beautiful natural surroundings, all green hills. With its extravagant architecture, lush landscape and perhaps most of all, its colours, Sintra is simply seductive.

I’m not the only one fascinated by this Portuguese town. About 200 years before me, British poet Lord Byron visited Sintra. His thoughts:

I must just observe that the village of Cintra in Estremadura is the most beautiful in the world.

Sintra has been home of numerous Portuguese monarchs through the ages, and is naturally brimming with weird and wonderful palaces. The pièce de résistance is probably the dreamy multi-coloured Pena Palace rising on a peak above town. Then, there’s the Quinta de Regaleira and Montserrate palaces, both with splendid gardens, the enigmatic Castelo dos Mouros (Moorish Castle), and more. Many of them are wondrously wacky and mysterious, and often shrouded in mist.

Easiest to see is Palácio Nacional de Sintra, the Royal Palace with the peculiar conical chimneys, in the town centre:

However, what I liked best weren’t the palaces and grand official buildings, but the brightly coloured houses, the public art, the fantastic fountains, the streets and stairways. What first caught my eye (and imagination) was this wonderful house in the hills:

But what was it? I had no guide in Sintra, and simply didn’t think to ask anyone then. Later, it took quite a bit of searching. The photo-sharing site flickr has a few pictures, but most are just named ‘pink house in Sintra’. Major travel sites like Lonely Planet, official tourism sites like GoLisbon, blogs; none that I found mentioned this house. And no wonder, perhaps – this is not a small palace or even a public building. Thanks to Virtual Tourist I finally found a little information. Casa dos Penedos is a privately owned house, and not a tourist attraction. Isn’t it fabulous, though? Look at how it seems to grow out of the hill itself. I love the towers, the colour – and just imagine the views.

When I visited, large eye-catching sculptures were set up along the walkways around town:

My favourite part of Sintra was the everyday houses and shops, the narrow alleys and stairs. And the colours.

Sintra colours

Sintra practicals

Sintra is a super day trip from Lisbon and getting there couldn’t be easier. Trains leave from Lisbon’s Rossio railway station every 15 minutes (30 minutes on weekends) and the journey takes about 40 minutes. Round trip tickets are only 4 euros.
The town centre of Sintra is a 15-minute walk from the railway station. Getting to many of the palaces requires a bit of a steep uphill walk (or a bus from the railway station). The views alone are magnificent, so very worth it even if you don’t enter the palaces.
I visited in October and had the town mostly to myself. I imagine it’s quite busy in summer though, so I’d plan accordingly – maybe even spend a night there to better feel the atmosphere.

Have you been in Sintra?

Seductive Sintra is a post from Sophie's World

World at a Glance: Beslan memorial in San Marino

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Wed, 03 Apr 2013 22:25:39 +0000

World at a Glance is an infrequent series here on Sophie’s World, portraying curious, thought-provoking, happy, sad, wondrous, unexpected little encounters.

Beslan memorial San Marino

Wandering about in the world’s oldest republic, I stumbled upon this statue of a screaming boy, wearing only his underpants. It’s a monument to the victims of the school massacre in Beslan: On 1 September 2004, first day of the school year, School no. 1 in Beslan in North Ossetia (a small, autonomous republic within the Russian federation) was besieged by 30 Chechen militants. 1128 people were taken hostage. Russian special forces moved in three days later, and when the siege ended, 334 of the hostages were killed. Most were young children.

I stare at the boy for a long time, terror etched into the young face. This little sculpture touches me more than the TV broadcasts from Beslan did. Somehow it seems more real, more tangible – than images projected through a screen.

As one would expect, there are memorials to this tragedy in Caucasus – and in other parts of Russia. But why San Marino? Well, Russian is spoken in many shops and restaurants, indicating a rather large number of Russian tourists in this little country. But is there another reason as well? I don’t know…

World at a Glance: Beslan memorial in San Marino is a post from Sophie's World

Mardi Gras World: where the magic happens

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Sun, 31 Mar 2013 16:04:26 +0000

Have you ever wanted to experience Mardi Gras? Me, too. As it happened, however, life (i.e. other travel plans) meant we would be in New Orleans 10 days too late.

As with most things in Louisiana, Mardi Gras came with the French settlers. Records from as far back as the early 1700s describe masked balls and parades in New Orleans. In 1806, the party had become so raucous that the powers that be decided to lay down the law. This was of course ignored – you’re not going to stop having fun just because it’s illegal, are you… A few years later, the authorities saw the error of their ways and lifted the ban. However, to ensure the parties didn’t go on all year long, a law was passed limiting the season to the period between 1 January and Fat Tuesday (Mardi Gras).

And so it remains today: the carnival season begins on the Twelfth Night of Christmas (6 January, Epiphany), and through the weeks that follow, there are processions, masquerades and king cake parties. Then, as a final blast of frivolity before Lent, everything culminates with a no holds barred celebration on Fat Tuesday.

The celebrations are organised by krewes, a whopping 54 of them. In some krewes, the members decorate their own floats, but the vast majority leave it in the capable hands of Blaine Kern Studios, Mardi Gras float designers and -builders since 1947. Their Mardi Gras World is one of 18 warehouses containing well, everything Mardi Gras.

Welcome to Mardi Gras World

While we couldn’t join in the fabulous festivities, we could still get a taste of this classic New Orleans tradition. Let’s take a behind-the-scenes look at where the magic happens: welcome to the float den at Mardi Gras World.

Sensory overload

As we slowly make our way through, preparations for next year’s Mardi Gras season is in full swing. The giant warehouse is brimming with floats, sculptures, props, masks, costumes – from the bizarre to the beautiful. There’s the clang of workmen’s tools, the smell of the artists’ paint, and most of all the colours: every imaginable shade, every nuance on the colour spectrum is represented.

Mardi Gras World offers a short film on the history of the carnival, the opportunity to dress up, and a tour of the large warehouse where the magic happens. And, there’s king cake.

King cake

Sometimes, when I’ve been in Paris in the beginning of January, I’ve bought a galette des rois to take home and serve to friends and family. This is an old, religious tradition, associated with Epiphany. The Parisian version contains a figurine hidden inside the cake; whomever gets the trinket is king for a day and must, according to custom, buy the next galette.

In New Orleans, the king cake tradition harks back to the 1870s. Iced with the colours of Mardi Gras: green, purple and gold, the hidden figurine inside is a tiny plastic baby, representing baby Jesus. If you get the baby, be prepared to throw the next king cake party. The taste? Well, with all that icing it’s a sweet affair. Surprisingly, though, Cat, my 11-year-old who prefers dried fish snacks to sweets, took a liking to king cake, and kept looking for it on restaurant menus.

Conclusion:

If you can’t make it to New Orleans for Mardi Gras, set aside a couple of hours to browse Mardi Gras World; it’s a fun and family-friendly experience in the Big Easy.

Want to visit New Orleans during Mardi Gras?

The dates changes annually, depending on the dates of Easter – which, as I’m sure you all know – is the first Sunday after the first full moon after the spring equinox. Next year, Fat Tuesday (also known as Shrove Tuesday) falls on 4 March and in 2015 it’s on 17 February.

Don’t let anyone fool you into buying a ticket for Mardi Gras. It’s simply a street festival, completely free of charge. Neither is there any official Mardi Gras-souvenirs for sale. No one organisation is an official sponsor of the festivities.

Mardi Gras World practicals

Mardi Gras World is located near the port of New Orleans, on the Mississippi river, walking distance from the city centre and the French Quarter. There’s also a free shuttle bus for a rainy (or lazy) day.

The entrance fee is USD 19.95 (discounts for children, students and seniors), and includes a throw (bead necklace) for an entrance ticket, a short, interesting film on the history of Mardi Gras, a chance to don a costume or two, a guided tour through the warehouse, a piece of king cake, and the opportunity to go crazy with your camera for as long as you want.

Disclosure: In New Orleans, we were guests of New Orleans CVB. As ever, we’re free to write about anything we want.

Mardi Gras World: where the magic happens is a post from Sophie's World

Easter traditions in Norway

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Wed, 27 Mar 2013 22:30:06 +0000

Spring is finally in the air up here in the northern world, although it looks like snow will be on the ground for a few more days at least, to the delight of most.

Easter, you see, means a 10-day-vacation – we’re in the middle of it right now – and skiing is an essential part. As I was rummaging through old family photos, I stumbled across this one from Easter in 1911. Fashions might have changed, but this country’s love affair with cross country skiing is stronger than ever.

Sunshine, snow and snacks

Norwegian Easter traditions can be summed up in a few words: family and friends, cross-country skiing, Kvikklunsj, oranges, board games, and crime.

In addition to skiing wax, the skiers’ rucksacks usually contain sandwiches (open-faced), a thermos of tea, coffee or cocoa, oranges, Kvikklunsj (a chocolate wafer that has been around since 1937, similar to the British KitKat) and Solo, a local orange soda, also from the 1930s: all to be enjoyed at hytteveggen, meaning ‘the cabin wall’.

Hytteveggen refers to being outside, a cabin wall at your back, enjoying lunch or a snack, with the warm sun on your face, and bright, white snow as far as the eye can see.

Hytteveggen, 1940s and our cabin, 2013 (Photo credit: Aleksander Bratlie)

Easter.. crime?

In Norway, Easter also means crime. So much so, that påskekrim (Easter crime) has become a word in its own right.

Curious about the somewhat morbid tradition? It’s all about a very successful 90-year-old marketing campaign. Two students came up with a plan to rob the Oslo – Bergen train on Easter Sunday. A clever plan, especially since Easter Sunday was also 1 April that year. Alerting the police to the robbery would likely be written off as an April Fool’s joke, giving the robbers a good head start.

Fortunately, the students didn’t actually rob the train but instead wrote a novel about it. The book was launched shortly before Easter in 1923, through a front page ad in the country’s largest newspaper, designed to look like a breaking news story. Reading only the headline, people with friends and relatives on the train called the paper in despair. A hoax, you might say. (15 years later, Orson Welles succeeded in eliciting similar reactions using the same tactics when broadcasting H. G. Wells’ novel War of the Worlds.)

Ever since, crime for Easter has been in great demand, through books, games, radio programs and TV. Even milk cartons have mysteries to solve, this year in the form of a cartoon.

On Easter Eve (Saturday), children are given a large cardboard egg filled with goodies, often påskemarsipan, chocolate-covered marzipan eggs.

What are some Easter traditions in your country?

Pop over to Budget Travelers Sandbox for more photo fun.

Easter traditions in Norway is a post from Sophie's World

A spring morning in Munich with kids

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Mon, 25 Mar 2013 19:08:57 +0000

I’ve been meaning to write a practical post on travelling with children, focusing on long inter-continental flights especially. It’s on my to-do list, has been for a while. And I will write it. But not today. However, I’ll share one of my tips now: wear them out. Worn-out kids, you see, fall asleep. Simple really.

One of my favourite ways of wearing the kids out has been to schedule long stop-overs at intermediate airports, then being very active, outdoors if possible. A vigorous tumbling about before that 13-hour flight to Singapore is much more effective than sleeping pills. I’ve heaps of tips on how – and where – to wear the little ones out in London, Paris, Frankfurt, Copenhagen, Reykjavik…

Munich with kids

Now my youngest is 11 these little tricks are no longer necessary. As it happened, however, we had seven hours between flights a few weeks ago, in Munich. This was after a three-legged journey – including a long, boring inter-continental flight – and before the last quick two-hour flight home. The long wait was far from ideal and we were all a bit cranky. So although Munich airport is nice enough, we simply couldn’t face seven more hours indoors. Also, I had only been in Munich on business before, and not seen much of the city. Couldn’t miss an opportunity like that.

Anticipating this, I had asked my friend Laurel of Monkeys and Mountains, a Munich local, for a few ideas on how to kill a few hours in Munich with kids. She kindly provided a number of options; one of them was Obletter Spielwaren on Karlsplatz, the city’s largest toy shop. Karlsplatz it was then – and very conveniently located it was, on the direct train line from the airport.

As we got off, it was still too early for shops to be open, so we went down an interesting-looking street instead, through an old city gate, the Karlstor:

Further down the street, we met Juliet -

That whiles Verona by that name is known. There shall no figure at such rate be set. As that of true and faithful Juliet.

and saw the beautiful Town Hall at Marienplatz:

Just around the corner from Marienplatz is Viktualienmarkt, Munich’s fabulous daily farmers’ market, brimming with flowers, fruits, vegetables, meats and sausages, spices, honey and cakes, wines and cheeses…

and these cheerful boiled breakfast eggs (the ones in the left photo, that is):

As it happened, early March was a wonderful time to visit. The weather was unexpectedly warm and lovely, and Easter was just around the corner.

After an early lunch outdoors in the sunshine at Löwe am Markt, we ambled back towards the train,

…just in time to see and hear the noon-time Glockenspiel at the town hall tower:

Other things to do in Munich with kids

The toy shop? Didn’t happen. Not enough time. A few hours can, after all, provide just the briefest of tastes. We’ll do a long weekend in Munich later to have a look at Laurel’s other suggestions. Here they are:

Deutsches Museum: not only is it full of history, it’s also the world’s oldest museum of technology, perfect for my science nerd.
Take a self-guided tour of Munich Residenz: 130 rooms of the mad monarchs of Bavaria. (Although the maddest of them built his mad castles elsewhere.)
See sea Life at Olympiapark München: sharks, turtles, octopi…
Have a stroll through the botanical gardens at Nymphenburg: botanical gardens always provide an excellent place for kids to stretch and run about a bit, and I love the scents and colours.

Have you been in Munich? Any other tips?

A spring morning in Munich with kids is a post from Sophie's World

The old bridge in Mostar

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Fri, 22 Mar 2013 15:00:54 +0000

This week’s #frifotos* theme is symbols. What first popped into my mind was Stari Most.

I think the old bridge in Mostar is one of the most powerful symbols there is: of multiculturalism, of how people of different religions can co-exist, how reconciliation can actually work.

There’s a Middle Eastern flavour to Mostar. No surprise, of course: this was, after all, an Ottoman city for centuries. Mostar is also a hauntingly beautiful city: the crystal-clear waters of the river Neretva, the green, verdant hills, the houses in soft colours – reds, faded greens, warm beige, the copper and brass wares of the street vendors shining in the afternoon sun…

Continuing along the streets, I spotted bullet holes here, a bombed house there. Remnants of the war were everywhere. Perhaps still?

The old bridge in Mostar

The original stone bridge across the Neretva was constructed by the Ottoman rulers of Bosnia-Herzegovina nearly 500 years ago – and brutally demolished by Bosnian-Croat forces in 1993. During the Balkan wars of the 1990s, Mostar suffered great losses, not least the iconic bridge. More than an architectural masterpiece was lost. Destroying the bridge meant people were separated from their friends and families for years.

The bridge is rebuilt now, using the same means and materials as the Ottoman architects did in the 1560s. Britain’s Prince Charles performed the solemn, official opening of the new bridge in July 2004. I took these photos two months later. The following year, UNESCO added the old bridge in Mostar to its list of cultural heritage with outstanding universal value.

On a more curious note, boys leap from the bridge into the surging icy-cold river below, haphazardly playing with their lives. My youngest daughter is fascinated. Jumping off the bridge is an ancient tradition, says Jusuf, a young man standing next to me. And sure enough, the first dive recorded is from 1664. To impress the girls? I wonder out loud. ‘No.’ Jusuf laughs. ‘To impress each other.’

*#FriFotos is a weekly Twitter chat founded by @EpsteinTravels where travellers share their favourite photos. Each week has a theme.

The old bridge in Mostar is a post from Sophie's World

World at a Glance: Frank Zappa in Vilnius

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Wed, 20 Mar 2013 14:30:45 +0000

Welcome to World at a Glance, yet another infrequent series here on Sophie’s World. These are intended to be short posts, with a photo that is either curious or evocative, that gave me pause; pause to think, laugh, cry, wonder… Let’s begin with curious.

Frank Zappa in Vilnius

What is Frank Zappa doing in Vilnius? What is the connection? The unconventional singer died in 1993, just a few years after the break-up of the Soviet Union and Lithuanian independence. Had he managed to visit this tiny country towards the end of his life? Was his family from Lithuania?

Turns out Frank Zappa had no association at all with this little Baltic country – apart from an enthusiastic fan. And a desire to replace Soviet icons with, well, something else.

After the dissolution of the Soviet Union, Lithuania, like other countries in the region, couldn’t be rid of Soviet symbols quick enough. Down they went, statues of Lenin, Stalin, Karl Marx and others, leaving heaps of empty pedestals. But what to replace Lenin with? Something to mark the end of communism, obviously.

Enter Saulius Paukstys, a civil servant, photographer and founder of the Frank Zappa Fan Club. Amazingly, he managed to convince city authorities to erect a statue of the dead singer in the centre of Vilnius. In 1995, the statue was unveiled to the tune of a Zappa hit parade by brass band.

I love stumbling over curious little quirks like this. You?

Have a look at Travel Photo Thursday for more quirky shots.

World at a Glance: Frank Zappa in Vilnius is a post from Sophie's World

A Perfect Day in Oslo

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Sun, 17 Mar 2013 21:21:28 +0000

Today, I’m joining the 100 cities to homeswap before you die-initiative and I’ll let you in on how to spend a perfect day in Oslo. (For more information on the project, click on the link at the end of the article.)

It’s not easy. That’s not because there’s a shortage of things to enjoy, quite the contrary. Oslo is packed with things to do – outdoors and in; quite a few are even free. But what to choose: that’s the question.

Winter is still here and there are plenty of temptations to lure the kids away from the screens and out in the snow. In fact, it’s snowing right now, which means just about everyone and their dog will be out in the forest enjoying what might be one of the last skiing Sundays of the season.

But for our perfect day, we’ll focus on spring; it’s just around the corner. We won’t go to the forest today, there simply isn’t time. Instead we’ll take to the fjord. The hop-on hop-off old wooden sail ship that plies Oslo harbour is perfect – it stops at City Hall, the Opera House and Bygdøy Museum Peninsula.

City Hall

Getting on at City Hall, we’ll soon sail past the 700-year-old Akershus Fortress. I love seeing Oslo from the water – and imagine how it must have felt to be a Viking returning home after months – or even years – at sea. Oslo celebrated its 1000-year anniversary in 2000 – and while the skyline has certainly changed since 1000 AD, nature remains much the same: hills and forests surround the city on three sides; the fjord is on the fourth.

Akershus Fortress

We’ll get off the ship at Oslo Opera House and take a stroll up the sloping marble roof for fabulous fjord views. If you have young children along, be aware: running down the slope is very tempting and there are no guard rails before you hit the chilling waters of the fjord.

By now we’re in the mood for morning coffee, and since the weather is lovely, we’ll have it outdoors, right at the water’s edge. In winter – or in the rain – Brasserie Sanguine offers coffees (or lunches or dinners) indoors, with smashing views through the enormous glass wall.

Oslo Opera House

Getting back on the boat, we’ll continue to Bygdøy. This peninsula is home to great hikes, fabulous beaches and Oslo’s best museums. Again, considering we only have one day, we have to choose between several wonderful maritime museums, including intrepid explorer Thor Heyerdahl’s ocean-crossing raft Kon-Tiki, the Viking Ship house, and more.

My 11-year-old is along, and she loves ambling about the deck of the polar ship Fram, used by the first man to ever reach the South Pole, Roald Amundsen. The best thing about this little museum is that we can board the Fram and have a look in the cabins, the lounges, the engine room and the cargo hold. I can imagine how it must have been out at the Ross Ice Shelf in Antarctica back in 1911.

Restaurant at Aker Brygge

About time for lunch? We’ll get back on our sailing ship one final time and head back to City Hall and Aker Brygge, a renovated ship yard full of quirky shops and great cafes, bars and restaurants. We’ll have lunch wherever takes our fancy, whether we’re in the mood for fabulous seafood, pasta, Japanese food, or just about anything else. There’s even an American diner.

A perfect day in Oslo will probably include Frogner Park

Everyone loves Frogner Park, so after lunch, we’ll hop on the tram and go west to join (or watch) locals rollerblading, walking their dogs, enjoying the sunshine and the scent of roses. Kids love to climb on the many sculptures in the park, all created by Gustav Vigeland. Or they’ll imitate them: Sinnataggen, the Angry Little Boy, is perfect for this.

A short tram ride – or a brisk 20-minute walk – takes us back to the city centre where we’ll walk down main street Karl Johan to one of Oslo’s most iconic restaurants, Grand Cafe. This used to be the hangout of the Christiania Bohemians, a gang of artists in the late 1880s. Noted playwright Henrik Ibsen was one of them. Twice a day he used to walk to Grand Cafe to enjoy a tankard of beer and read the newspapers.

Grand Hotel with Grand Cafe

Before we sit down, we’ll have a look at the large mural in the back of the restaurant depicting the Bohemians. You’ll see the great author in the left corner. He’s the man with the white beard and the top hat.

Section of Grand Cafe back wall mural

Since it’s a lovely day, we’ll enjoy our own beer outside in the afternoon sunshine (tea or hot chocolate for the little ones), where we’ll people-watch. The pavement outside Grand Cafe isn’t known as the catwalk for nothing.

We’ve had a full day, so perhaps we’ll just sit here, being lazy until it’s dinnertime. If we feel energetic, we might take a little stroll through Spikersuppa, the area between Parliament and the National Theatre. Or we could pop by one or two of the many snazzy shops at Paleet. There are all sorts of fancy clothing shops (perhaps you need a pair of Ilse Jacobsen wellies (rubber boots) for rainy days) or we’ll browse Tanum, one of Oslo’s largest book shops.

Fountain in Spikersuppa

Music pavilion in Spikersuppa

Here are a few more posts on Oslo:

Winter Family Fun in Oslo

17 May – Hip hip hooray! (about Norway’s cherished national day traditions)

Oslo, the open-minded city

Oslo on the House: 10 Great Free Attractions

… and here are a few from National Geographic’s Intelligent Traveler Blog:

Oslo Celebrates (about Christmas traditions)

I Heart My City

This post is part of the 100 cities to home swap before you die-initiative from Knok.com – hop on over for a look at perfect days in cities around the world.

A Perfect Day in Oslo is a post from Sophie's World

New Orleans streetcar

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Fri, 15 Mar 2013 15:06:57 +0000

This week’s #frifotos* theme is cars, and I’ve had fun playing with Alexandra’s photo of a classic New Orleans streetcar on Canal Street.

New Orleans streetcars have rambled through the city for almost two centuries. This one, the Canal Street Line, began operations in 1861 and provided horse-drawn service to the people of New Orleans. Couldn’t have been easy being a horse in those days.

Photo by Alexandra Redisch

The most famous New Orleans streetcar

The most famous streetcar line is probably the one that for a few decades at the beginning of the 20th century plied through the French Quarter down to Desire Street. Somewhat sadly, this New Orleans streetcar was replaced by busses in 1948. But it lives on in people’s minds, thanks to Tennessee Williams. In the words of Blanche duBois:

What you are talking about is desire – just brutal Desire. The name of that rattle-trap streetcar that bangs through the Quarter, up one old narrow street and down another.

Tennessee Williams is also reputed to have said the following:

I expect that didn’t make him especially popular.

I’ve never been in Cleveland, but I’ve been in quite a few American cities. From my days living in the USA, I remember these three as the only cities where I saw people outdoors: out and about, doing their shopping on foot, walking to work, to school, to play….

I imagine things might have changed since Tennessee’s days – and even since my days. What do you think?

Are people out walking in your city? Or is the famous author’s statement still valid?

*#FriFotos is a weekly Twitter chat founded by @EpsteinTravels where travellers share their favourite photos. Each week has a theme. Read more here.

Disclosure: In New Orleans, we were guests of New Orleans Convention & Visitors Bureau. As ever, we’re free to write about anything we, well… desire.

New Orleans streetcar is a post from Sophie's World

New Orleans by Instagram

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Wed, 13 Mar 2013 10:23:00 +0000

Earlier, I’ve told you of my first trip abroad – to New Orleans. As an eleven-year-old, I thought it was an exciting and exotic city; the colours, the smells, the people, the jazz, the streets, the shops, the horse-drawn carriages…

I’ve always had a strange yearning to see the city again – through grown-up eyes, yet despite living in the USA for five years in my teens and early twenties, I never returned to New Orleans.

Well, it was about time. Besides, my youngest daughter Cat is now 11. Of course, an eleven-year-old in 2013 is much worldlier than I was more than 30 years ago. But still: what would her impression be?

So… we’ve just returned from New Orleans for a look at its more family-friendly sides. This vibrant city offers much more than parties and beads, y’know. (Although you can’t really escape beads). There are heaps of things to see and do here – very quirky things.

Articles will be coming up on paddle steaming on the Mississippi, on the crazy and colourful world of Mardi Gras, on New Orleans eats, and more. Alex even headed out of town for a look at a few southern plantations, including a unique Creole one, and will tell you all about it. We’ll also delve into the darker side of this most unusual of North American cities, with ghosts, haunted houses and horrible histories from its sinister and sinful past.

For now, as an apéritif: here’s New Orleans by Instagram. And we’ll begin, of course, in the French Quarter.

Can’t be in New Orleans without trying beignets and cafe-au-lait at Cafe du Monde:

… and browse art for sale at Jackson Square:

New Orleans is a different city at night, intriguing, thrilling, spooky…

…as is the Andrew Jackson Hotel, where ghosts of children roam. Rumour has it; they mess with your camera, too. Who knows what the naughty boys might do with your Instagram account…

Cat thought this gorgeous falabella named Autumn was more interesting than the ghosts. Autumn hangs out at a bar called Lafitte’s Blacksmith shop, another haunted house.

Cafe Maspero was once a slave exchange:

… today locals queue for the enormous muffaletta-sandwiches and other Cajun fare:

Up the Mississippi a bit, is the Malus-Beauregard House, a small plantation on what was once the site of the last battle of the War of 1812:

View from the plantation: Chalmette battlefield

Can’t do New Orleans by Instagram and not mention Mardi Gras

We arrived in town a little late for Mardi Gras, but left-overs were all around, like beads in trees. In fact, heaps of beads, everywhere.

Preparations for next year’s event is in full swing at Mardi Gras World, one of 18 warehouses chock full of weird and wonderful accoutrements:

… and there’s always King cake:

Have you been in New Orleans?

Disclosure: In New Orleans, we were guests of New Orleans Convention & Visitors Bureau. As ever, we’re free to write about anything that takes our fancy.

Like to browse photos from around the world? Then pop over to Travel Photo Thursday to see lovely cherry blossoms in Korea and much more.

New Orleans by Instagram is a post from Sophie's World

Monaco: All that glitters

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Sun, 10 Mar 2013 17:38:19 +0000

Welcome to shiny, glittering Monaco glamour

That’s what the Monaco – Monte Carlo railway station says, don’t you think?

A quick peek at the boats in the harbour confirms that Monaco does indeed exude glamour.

Microstates vs micronations – and a few Monegasque oddities

I’ve written about micronations before. Monaco is not one of those. It is, however, a microstate. And what is the difference, you ask?

A microstate is a recognized sovereign nation, while a micronation is well, not.

Microstates tend to have an area of less than 1,000 km2 and fewer than half a million inhabitants. By land area, Monaco is the world’s second smallest country (only the Vatican is smaller). Counted by number of people, however, Monaco is only the 6th smallest. This tiny principality, you see, has the world’s highest population density.

It would be nice to think it’s the balmy Mediterranean climate that attracts the hordes of immigrants. I fear, however, that Monaco’s status as a tax haven is an even bigger draw.

Looks right crowded, doesn’t it? But don’t let this rather drab-looking colony of high-rises fool you. These are not exactly budget flats. Monaco has more billionaires pr capita than anywhere else on earth. And with real-estate prices as high as GBP 40 000 (about USD 60 000) pr square metre, it’s also the most expensive place to live in the world.

Monaco views, from the cannon’s mouth

Monaco isn’t only glamorous. It’s also a quite peculiar state. Surrounded by La France on three sides (and the Mediterranean on the fourth), treaties have been signed with the big sister through the years, severely limiting Monaco’s independence. About 100 years ago, the then prince signed a treaty where

… le Gouvernement de Son Altesse Sérénissime le Prince de Monaco s’engage a exercer ses droits de souveraineté en parfaite conformité avec les intérêts politiques, militaires, navals et économiques de la France.

That’s right. The prince agreed to exercise his sovereignty in perfect conformity with the political, military, naval and economic interests of France. Furthermore, there’s a stipulation about Monaco reverting to the status of a French protectorate, should there be no heir apparent. All this makes Monaco the least independent of the microstates.

When I was growing up, the Monegasque royal family made the headlines practically every week. The children of Prince Rainier and cinema princess Grace Kelly were involved in one scandal after another. In contrast, I don’t hear much about the present royal children. (But then, competition for scandal headlines seems to be fiercer these days.)

What do you think of when you hear Monaco? I’ll wager many of you would say Monte Carlo, James Bond, the casino…

But what else can you see and do in Monaco?

Here are a few suggestions:

See the Prince’s Palace

…and his guards

Have a look at Monaco Cathedral

where the Royal family, including Grace, is buried and Prince Albert, the current ruler, was married a few years ago…

Wander around in Monaco ville – the old city

Follow Parcourse Princesse Grace

Along the Princess Grace Walk, you can catch 25 scenes from her life through mobile technology and a more old-fashioned series of signs and photographs. I was oddly touched by this photo of Grace walking little Stephanie to school in 1970.

Visit the Musée Océanographique

My favourite. The building housing the Oceanographic Museum of Monaco is a work of art in itself, and the contents even better. Keen scientist and explorer Prince Albert I founded this magnificent museum in 1901. I’ve enjoyed strolling through it many times. Often, you’ll find interesting artwork outside as well.

Practicals:

Getting to Monaco: The bus that plies the Mediterranean coastline from Nice to Menton cost only 1 euro. Or you can take the more expensive (but still quite reasonable) train. If you want to splurge a bit and feel you’re part of the Monaco glamour for 15 minutes, the helicopter ride from Nice airport to Monaco costs 125 EUR (discounts for children and seniors).
Staying in Monaco: Luxurious hotels and resorts abound in Monte Carlo. How about the 150-year-old Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo, location of a few James Bond films? There are also a few hostels – or you can stay in lively Nice or any of numerous picturesque villages along the riviera.

Have you been in Monaco? Did you enjoy it?

Monaco: All that glitters is a post from Sophie's World

Legoland, the original one

Anne-Sophie Redisch — Wed, 06 Mar 2013 22:37:02 +0000

A few years ago, I finally visited Billund.

Billund, you say? And where might that be? Billund, dear reader, is a tiny Danish town, so tiny you can walk everywhere, to the airport even. Billund also seems to live and breathe Lego. Well, almost. There’s a little more to this place than Lego: a small town centre with a few shops, a bakery or two, some creative outdoor art, and fountains popping up from the ground at random. Cat loved dodging them.

Billund, home of Lego – and Legoland

But, as just about everyone else, we were in this tiny Jutland town for one reason: Lego. Billund is home of that most brilliant of toys. This is where it all began. The Lego company headquarters are here, as well as the original Legoland – everyone’s childhood fantasy, at least for us in the pre-Nintendo generation.

Lego HQ

Entrance fee to this large park is 254 DKK (about 32 EUR – 2013 prices), and there are plenty further opportunities to empty your wallet inside, as shops seem to outnumber attractions and exhibits. But the exhibits are impressive; and impressively huge.

There are larger than life Lego people and Lego wildlife (I’m reminded of nearby Givskud Lion Park).

There’s Lego Abu Simbel, Lego Mount Rushmore, a fierce fire-breathing Lego dragon, a Lego airport, a port and locks (that works), a space centre, a mine with lifesize Lego miners, and various world cities. The UNESCO-listed Hansa houses of Bryggen wharf in Bergen are here, as are the gabled houses and canals of Amsterdam. An entire Lego world!

Lego Bryggen in Bergen

Cat’s Lego faves

Children from 7 – 13 can get their driving licence at the traffic school, and beware, they’re quite strict about the age limit here. After a short driving lesson where the kids learn basic rules of traffic and the most common road signs, they have 30 minutes to drive along city streets, stopping for red lights, go the right way on one-way-streets, filling up the car at the Statoil petrol station, go through the car wash and most importantly, not crash into one another.

Cat was 7 at the time (well… near enough to 7 that I thought 7 sounded right). She did splendidly and became the proud owner of a driving licence. It looked very real, too – with the Norwegian flag inside the EU stars! Trouble is, Norway isn’t a member of the EU. Only in Legoland can you get a Norwegian EU driving licence.

Taking the driving test at Legoland

From the Legotop, a rotation panoramalift, you can see all of Legoland and all of Billund, including both Legoland airport and the real Billund airport right behind. A bit surreal, that.

The aquarium is good, too; passing through glass tunnels surrounded by tropical fish and sharks (not Lego ones). It’s also possible to reach into water basins to touch the sea creatures without damaging them. For lunch, I can recommend fish and chips at the Legoland Hotel. The chips, of course, are shaped like Lego.

Is there a branch of this creative Danish park in your part of the world?

Legoland, the original one is a post from Sophie's World