Skin was built to be lustrous. Follow these two crucial steps to brighten up and regain radiance:
Apply a broad-spectrum sunblock with antioxidants daily to prevent both UV rays and free radicals from foiling skin’s ability to repair itself. Nia 24’s Oil-free SPF30 Sunscreen goes one stage further, containing 5% pro-niacin, it helps repair existing sun damage deep within the skin.
It’s equally vital to slough skin with a chemical exfoliant (not a gritty physical scrub) such as glycolic acid to speed cell turnover without irritation. Here Cane + Austin’s Retexturizing Treatment Pads for daily use, come into their own. Natura Bisse’s Glyco Peeling offers a once a week, ten minute solution for the time pressed. Both rid the skin of dulling, dead cells to reveal the smoother fresher skin beneath the surface.

While your new, healthy cells start to produce collagen, try these instant luminizers: Layer By Terry’s genius, Hyaluronic Face Glow primer on clean skin. Acting as a humectant this infuses the skin with moisture, while evening out the complexion, softening dark spots or redness that mute radiance. It also minimizes the appearance of pores and plumps up the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. For that much sought after “J Lo glow” then follow with By Terry’s Eclat de Rose tinted moisturizer that reflects light like no other, a touch of her #1 Apple Glow Blush Veloutee health-imparting cream-to-powder blush on your cheeks and you are good to go. Remember radiant skin is always in fashion – fake it for now, while you build it from the inside out.

Our 20s see the peak of hormone levels that began to rise during our teenage years. This causes increased oil production, breakouts and enlarged pores. Conquer this with daily exfoliation to loosen dead skin cells and break down the oil that can clog pores resulting in blackheads and even acne.
Reduce excess shine without drying skin and shrink pores with Dr Brandt’s Pores No More products, these are oil free and infused with clarifying salicylic acid.

30s is a key decade to focus your skincare regime on wrinkle prevention. You probably are starting to notice fine lines around your eyes thanks to a childhood of beach holidays and outdoor sports. To help prevent further signs of ageing commit to applying sunscreen all year round – SPF 30 is ideal as being outside every day adds up. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning to protect against both UVA and UVB rays and try a retinol based product every night. I am a big fan of Kate Somerville’s Quench serum under my nighttime moisturizer and find Nia 24’s SPF30 Oil-free Sunscreen ideal for everyday use, as even when exercising as it never migrates into my eyes. Now is also the time to start firming the eye area and treat it with lightening and brightening ingredients. I have been testing Dr Marko Lens of Zelens’ amazing new intensive Triple Action Eye Cream and can vouch for the results.

In your 40s, skin simply doesn’t have the same radiance and uneven skin tone starts to become apparent. This is caused by the multiplication of melanocytes, the pigment producing cells found in the epidermis. Staying out of the sun will significantly reduce this issue. Brighten up a dull appearance with Cane & Austin’s Retexturizing Treatment Pads with 10% Glycolic to deep cleanse and exfoliate the skin, to help even out pigmentation, increase cell turnover and stimulate collagen production while smoothing fine lines.

In your 50s estrogen levels decline so skin becomes thinner and drier and moisture is lost. Combat crinkly, brittle skin with a combination of gentle exfoliation, Eve Lom’s Cleanser with skin polishing muslin cloth comes into its own here, to bring younger functioning cells to the surface, and wear a long-lasting hydrating and strengthening serum under your moisturizer in the morning and at night. Bakel’s P-Lipic Serum offers deep down hydration thanks to its high concentration of humectant hyaluronic acid that locks in water for a healthier, plumper epidermis in combination with cell strengthening trehalose and antioxidant vitamins A and E.

When you hit your 60s it is time to update your skincare arsenal with products that will restore volume and lift sagginess around the neck and jawline. Some mature skin is easily irritated so look for products containing anti-inflammatory botanicals such as bisabolol (German chamomile), super-antioxidants to prolong the life of skin cells, gentle brighteners and skin plumping hydrators such sodium hyaluronate and sodium lactate all of which are contained in new high performance anti-ageing cream 37 Extreme Actives that can conveniently be used for both day and night.

Skin ageing isn’t quite optional yet, but there is much we can do to fight our corner…

As ever, perfect skin is the starting point. Try smoothing on an illuminating protective moisturiser such as Caudalie’s Premier Cru or By Terry’s Seve de Rose Ultra-Glow Double Serum underneath your regular cream before lightly dabbing on foundation to fake a lit-from-within glow.

Strong, full brows are back in a big way. With squared off at the ends, boyish brows were the focal point of many catwalk beauty statements. Fill sparse areas with powder or pencil to frame and define the face. Laura Mercier’s Triangular Brow Pencils and Brow Powder Duos are some of the best around and a clear brow gel gives a perfectly groomed finish.

Graphite is now the new neutral courtesy of Chanel where metallic lids were sexied-up with plenty of black liner. Nails painted with graphite polish looked cool, not matchy-matchy. Here Rococo Nail Apparel offers you two choices the ‘40s-inspired Black Pearl Luxe or new Geisha.

The Jil Sander show once again showed us how to pump up the pigment. Forget veils or washes of colour this season. Work strong shades in bold blocks – apply eyeshadow wet for greater intensity and layer up your lipstick for a full colour pay-off. By Terry’s Rouge Terrybly in 201 Terrific Rouge hits the mark here.

Terry’s Ombre Blackstar eyeshadows make easy work of this season’s new smokey metallic eye where Pat Mc Grath gave it an elegant makeover with a pop of gold, copper or silver. At Roberto Cavalli she cooked up smouldering black-and-copper lids, a shade combo that flatters light eyes. For brown eyes, try pairing gold with navy for a Jason Wu effect.

Winged liquid liner and big-time ‘60s lashes delivered a sexy-meets-sophisticated eye. Both Chantecaille (Le Stylo) and By Terry (Ligne Blackstar) make easy to use, stay-put, liquid liners. Start at the inner corner and closely trace the upper lash line. At the outside corner of the lid, straighten the line, extending it slightly. Finish by curling the lashes with Shu Uemura’s klutz-proof cult curler and adding 2-3 coats of mascara. Chantecaille’s new Faux Cils Longest Lash with growth booster included, is an indulgent must-have.

Bright red hues ranging from cherry to scarlet showed up on not only the clothing but the lips too. Look no further than Lipstick Queen’s flattering options designed to suit all skin tones. Ralph Lauren referenced Asian influences, applying red to the centre of the lips and patting it out with the fingers, at Jil Sander a matte warm red was the order of the season.

Off duty lips in any shade of nude through pinky beige were featured at Missoni and Roberto Cavalli, playing light relief to the heavily smoked eyes. These new neutrals have a beautifully balmy finish and Rouge Terrybly in 103 Plumping Nude is perfect for warmer toned complexions and 101 Flirty Rosy for cooler.

Give the complexion a healthy, outdoorsy pink glow by brushing it underneath the cheekbones. Nars’ blush in Douceur is a very pretty option.

Hair options abounded with centre partings making a style appear effortless and polished at the same time, particularly when Living Proof’s Full Root Lifting Spray is applied at the roots for a boost of body.

Voluminous blow-drys such as those at Anna Sui are always in fashion. Spritz on Oribe’s new Maximista thermal-protective body builder and blow-dry hair using a round brush, setting it with medium Velcro rollers for extra lift.

Polished updos assisted with Oribe’s Dry Texturizing Spray appeared in masculine and feminine forms. At Donna Karan, the buns were strict yet soft, at Yves Saint Laurent, slick sideburns accompanied low knots.

Finally ponytails. “This season wasn’t about a simple ponytail. It was low or high or straight or messy,” says Sam McKnight. “But all were similar from the front, with a different textural detail in back,” Dress up your pony by wrapping a section of hair around the elastic or add a chic accessory. Enjoy your experiments!

Last week also saw the Marbella Tennis Masters at the Puente Romano Club with my brother’s childhood hero Bjorn Borg, Pat Cash and doubles trickster Mansour Bahrami among the stars playing. With ages ranging from 35-55 they had one thing in common, they were all in the most amazing shape of their lives. So I thought I’d delve a little closer. This involved sleuthing round the breakfast room checking out what they were eating (scrambled eggs, cheese, berries, no bread to a man) and drinking surprise, surprise, green tea and lots of water.

So why is water so important?
As Rachael Moeller Gorman recently reported in EatingWell Magazine:
Staying hydrated keeps your memory sharp, your mood stable and your motivation intact. When you’re well-hydrated you can also think through a problem more easily. Researchers hypothesise that not having enough water could reduce oxygen flow to the brain or temporarily shrink neurons – or being thirsty could simply distract you.

Water keeps your throat and lips moist and prevents your mouth from feeling dry. Dry mouth can cause bad breath and an unpleasant taste, and can even promote cavities.

Dehydration lowers your blood volume, so your heart must work harder to pump the reduced amount of blood and get enough oxygen to your cells, which makes everyday activities and exercise more difficult.

Your body releases heat by expanding blood vessels close to the skin’s surface (this is why your face gets red during exercise), resulting in more blood flow and more heat dissipated into the air. When you’re dehydrated, however, it takes a higher environmental temperature to trigger blood vessels to widen, so you stay hotter.

When you’re well hydrated, the water inside and outside the cells of contracting muscles provides adequate nutrients and removes waste efficiently so you perform better. Water is also important for lubricating joints.

When a person is severely dehydrated, skin is less elastic. This is different than dry skin, which is usually the result of harsh cleansers, hot water and exposure to dry air. And, no, unfortunately, drinking lots of water won’t prevent wrinkles.

Your kidneys need water to filter waste from the blood and excrete it in urine. Keeping hydrated may also help prevent urinary tract infections and kidney stones. If you are severely dehydrated, your kidneys may stop working, causing toxins to build up in your body. This also promotes the formation of cellulite.

So now that you’ve read the total body benefits of drinking water, how much water do you actually need?
The US Institute of Medicine says adult men need about 13 cups (3 litres) per day of fluid; adult women need about 9 cups (2.2 litres) of fluid. Apparently we get about an additional 2 1/2 cups of fluid from the food we eat.
“But one size doesn’t fit all,” says Leslie Bonci, Director of Sports Nutrition at the Center for Sports Medicine at the University of Pittsburgh Medical Center. Your size and activity level affect your fluid requirements. Simply put, the larger and more active you are, the more you’ll need.
So, how much water do you drink every day?

Simple rules to keep in mind when you are shopping for sunscreen:
Look for the term “broad spectrum” or UVA/UVB protection on the label.The familiar SPF number isn’t sufficient as it only refers to protection against the skin burning UVB rays. You also need a sunscreen that fends off UVA rays as while these don’t burn the skin, they can break down collagen and are largely responsible for skin ageing.

Ideally look for a mix of avobenzone and octocrylene on the label for chemical sunscreens that offer adequate protection against UVA rays or alternatively 5-10 percent zinc oxide for physical sunscreens.

Always consider if your proposed sunscreen level is fit for purpose – SPF15 is fine if you are simply heading for the office and doing errands at lunchtime. However, if you are going to be in the sun for an extended period then trade that for SPF30 or higher for daily use. Do not forget to reapply often, especially after breaking a sweat exercising or taking a swim.

The arguments I often encounter when discussing daily use of sunscreen are that it leaves a grey/white film on the skin, it clogs pores and makes make up go oily. These arguments have been totally defeated by the latest formulations; the newer sunscreens become transparent on the skin and their oil-free formulations never result in make up going shiny nor pores getting clogged. Remember to always avoid any sunscreen with mineral oil, paraffin wax, liquid paraffin or petrolatum on the label.

Dry or sensitive skins should opt for creamy formulations with hydrators such as oat protein or sodium hyaluronate, this attracts water from the air and binds it to skin, along with omega-3s and essential fatty acids.

Rash prone skin is better treated with physical protectors that deflect UV light and are less irritating. Use formulas containing zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, and always make sure you rub them in completely.

There are now even sunscreens that help to erase fine lines and wrinkles. These are laced with antioxidants such as vitamins E and C, caffeine, coffeeberry or niacin. For the highest level of protection against free radical damage it is suggested by many of the top dermatologists that you apply a separate antioxidant serum first so it is allowed to penetrate deeply into the skin and then apply your protective sunscreen.

A few final words of caution for those on oral or topical medications: Even if you are wearing sunscreen, certain antibiotics for treating acne, some blood pressure medications and sulphur based creams can cause sunburn. Similarly the Pill and some hormone regimens can cause melasma and certain autoimmune diseases can increase vulnerability to sun rashes. If ever in doubt, stick with a SPF30 oil-free physical sunscreen, and retire gracefully into the shade.

Under-eye circles

Lack of sleep can be a contributing factor but is rarely the root cause.  When circles are purplish-blue and disappear when pressed with a finger they are usually caused by blood vessels that are visible through thin skin.  A formula containing caffeine can be helpful here as it temporarily constricts the blood vessels making them less visible. Try Strivectin-SD’s Eye Concentrate that also contains 7.5% NIA-11 and peptides, clinically proven to make a visible difference in 2-8 weeks.

If the darkness is brown and caused by hyperpigmentation then a night time treatment with retinol is the best option as it can lighten the area by sloughing off dead surface cells and it also helps thicken thin skin making the underlying vessels less visible. Sarah Chapman’s peptide-packed Skinesis Eye Recovery with hyaluronic spheres and optical diffusers not only blurs dark circles but also helps fill fine lines.

Breakouts

Stress-induced acne is on the increase. This is often exacerbated by too little sleep.  When we rest, anti-inflammatory hormones help lower surging levels of cortisol, the stress hormone that not only can make us break out but also promotes weight gain.  Two compelling reasons to ensure you get sufficient shut eye and stick to an easy skin-clearing regimen. 

Wash twice daily using a mild cleanser such as Elemental Herbology’s aromatic Cool & Clear Facial Cleanser and follow this with an non-comedogenic, oil free moisturizer such as Nuxe’s Crème Fraiche for combination skin. 

To treat spots use Eve Lom’s highly effective Dynaspot that contains salicylic acid and antiseptic tea tree oil. 

Daily use of Cane + Austins Acne Treatment Pads with their 2% salicylic acid and 5% glycolic has proven very efficient at clearing hormone-related breakouts.

Hyperpigmentation

Discoloration and dark splotches are one of the most ageing imperfections. Recent research has pronounced that if skin tone is uneven there is a perception that you may be 7-10 years older than you are.  A startling revelation.  These splotches are caused by UV damage and can be minimized through the daily application of a brightening serum containing Vitamin C or E such as Sarah Chapman’s Skin Tone Perfecting Serum #3 which in addition contains alpha arbutin.  Drier hyper-pigmented skins will benefit hugely from twice daily application of Chantecaille’s Vital Essence with Arbutin, which also offers up powerful anti-oxidant protection.

Fine Lines

Retinol is still considered to be the go to ingredient for fine lines as it has been proven to stimulate collagen production and helps to smooth the skin texture.  It is important to apply a retinol cream or serum before bed as sunlight can render it ineffective.  One of my favourites is the moisture intensive Quench Hydrating Serum by Kate Sommerville.

Some sensitive skins however find it hard to tolerate retinol so enlist peptides as alternative line minimizers, in this case Clark’s Botanicals Nourishing Youth Serum is a good option, working immediately upon application to revitalise and smooth out the signs of ageing.

Remember to always wear a broad spectrum sunscreen 24/7 particularly if using retinol treatments as they can make skin especially vulnerable to UV damage. Nia 24’s oil-free SPF30 sunscreen is one of the best on the market and provides a perfect base for make up.

Frank is the founder of Eleven Eleven Wellness Center in New York, where he combines Western medicine alongside healing modalities including acupuncture, herbal medicine, nutrition, biofeedback, meditation and yoga.

Functional medicine focuses on regeneration and restoration treating the body as originally designed not simply the disease. It is the emerging model for progressive medical care in the US.

So what did I learn? Your DNA doesn’t have to be your destiny. How your genes are expressed depends on how you live your life. Genes simply react, as they should, in accordance with the environment to which they are exposed. However, here’s the good news, change the environment and you can change the outcome.

In short, our book of good health is our responsibility and to a greater extent than you would initially think, within our control.

So what questions should we ask: What is harming me and needs to be removed from my life? And, what need is not being met?

The patient is better informed than ever before thanks to the Internet. The medical experts all felt that it is the doctor’s responsibility to educate their patients. It is really down to us as individuals to try to open up a dialogue with our doctors to be our partners in healing. It should be their duty to empower patients to take better care of their health.

So where do we go from here? As the digestive system is a major source of inflammatory triggers in the body, often it’s the best starting point when you do not know what’s going on.

All four doctors agreed that detoxification is the first step of any cure with the next step being appropriate supplementation beyond basic nutritional good sense.

I left excited. In my case they were preaching to the converted. I am a firm believer that beauty and wellness begins on the inside. When I get back to London I’m embarking on a David Kirsch 5 Day Detox programme to establish my baseline, then I’m seeing Dr. Frank Lipman to talk supplements.

The starting premise for her work is that most of us are overfed but actually undernourished.  However, the good news is that the human body is self-healing, so if we focus our eating on foods that promote this process we can bring about dramatic results.

The first goal of functional eating is to strengthen the detox process. Cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage, kale, horseradish and Brussels sprouts are some of the most powerful vegetables to enhance detoxification in the liver, and are strongly linked to low risk for many cancers.  Try steaming broccoli, cauliflower and sprouts and top with lemon zest for a healthy side dish.

Garlic, onion, leek and scallions possess antiviral and antibacterial properties and enhance clearance of undesirable compounds in the liver.  Apparently when you chop garlic and let it sit for 10 minutes you activate the bioactive compounds, it’s then perfectly primed for use in salsa and tomato sauces.

The next goal is to ward off disease.  Lacey recommended I introduce more colourful variety into what I eat. Upping my antioxidants with lycopene-rich tomatoes, watermelon and pink grapefruit, or baking thin slices of beta-carotene charged carrots, sweet potato or butternut squash will help neutralize free radical damage.

Bitter dark leafy green vegetables such as kale, spinach, bok choy or collard greens contain lutein and zeaxanthin, imperative for eye health and vision, so I am now adding a handful to soup, stews and stir fries for good measure.  These are especially impactful when combined with garlic and red pepper.

Lacey then suggested my becoming a “flexitarian”!  I can agree to Meatless Mondays but adopting tofu or tempeh protein sources twice a week is a step too far for my taste buds.

Her next suggestion was to obey my gut instincts.  There is no question smaller and more frequent meals are easier for the body to digest. Adding insoluble fibre to act as a bulking agent and to help control the acidity in the intestine makes perfect sense.  It’s easy to sprinkle wheat germ in my morning protein smoothie and snack on an apple to keep me going.

Soluble fibre acts as a gel in the intestinal tract that binds toxins and helps lower cholesterol.  This is great for heart health and may reduce the risk for certain cancers.  The possibilities are endless here (at Como Shambala its all about beans, beans, beans); add garbanzo beans to salads, white cannellini beans to soups, eat oatmeal for breakfast and sprinkle ground flax seed in yoghurt.  In Bali I was also served the most delicious nutty red rice this is native to the region and contains way more fibre than brown.

The final goal of Lacey’s functional food lesson was to highlight foods that help tame my internal heat or inflammation.  Here we are talking about

mono-unsaturated fatty acids (or MUFAs contained in almonds, avocado, olive and canola oils) that as well as helping to keep arteries clear and to reduce the risk of heart disease, also promote healthy skin, nails and hair.  I now add 10 almonds to my afternoon snack for a metabolism boost and occasionally sliced avocado with coriander to a lunchtime salad. 

Polyunsaturated fatty acids (or PUFAs contained in walnuts, flax and pumpkin seeds) contain an omega-3 fatty acid that benefits the heart, brain and eyes.  Lacey suggested making dressings with flax seed oil or walnut seed oil, I however find it easier to simply add pumpkin and crushed flax seeds to my yogurt or salad for extra crunch.

We also touched on DHA/EPA omega-3 fatty acids found in the anti-inflammatory oils from fish such as salmon, mackerel, sardines and anchovies.  As well as consuming salmon in whatever form at least 3 times a week I now supplement my daily diet with David Kirsch’s new Omega–3 capsules.

We then discussed breakfast and why a bowl of berries with some Greek yoghurt was such a great way to start the day.  The berries, along with cherries and red grapes are rich in anthocyanins, which help defend cells against oxidative damage from pollution, smoke and chemicals.  They also contribute to brain function, which is never a bad thing.

To end on an final note of heart healthy indulgence, Lacey prescribed an antioxidant laced flavanol-filled snack; a cup of green tea and 1oz of at least 70% dark chocolate – I do have a problem with this, a nibble of chocolate only makes me want more, so until I can control my cravings I’m sticking with just the green tea.

The Spring/Summer 2011 catwalks saw eye-popping brights and pastels take centre stage. Gorgeous glowing skin is the starting point (Versace) and from there add the perfect red lip and 70s inspired hair.

Swap out tawny earth-toned blush, eyes and lip colours for a sun-kissed 70s glow as seen at Michael Kors.  Exchange winter’s deep berry lip shades for the perfectly painted red lips at Gucci or bright orange-reds and pinks at Jil Sander.

Heavily kohl-rimmed eyes now look old hat compared with the chalky- finish bright pastel eyeshadows a la Derek Lam – a trick from Pat McGrath here, tightly line upper and lower lashes with a black eyeliner to make pastels appear more grounded.  Last season’s defiantly bold and bushy eyebrows are still strong but beautifully groomed as witnessed at Vera Wang.

Short dark matte squoval (square-oval) nails look Noughties, for the Teens, nails are longer, still oval, perfectly manicured and in eye popping orange reds as seen at Dior.

When it comes to hair, Marc for Marc Jacobs’ 70s frizz is unlikely to appeal to many, however Rodarte’s chunky decorative hair barrettes definitely look more fashion forward than the gym-ready Alice band of late.

So what’s going into my make up bag? 

Foundation is tricky, I’ve just returned from Anguilla, suntanned and more than a little freckly, I also have shadows from my sunglasses – a mix of By Terry’s Or de Rose Teint Supreme skin-flattering light reflective foundation and my Zelens Extra Rich SPF15 Moisturiser appear to work best with a touch of Terry’s Bronze Opulent to tone in white marks on the bridge of my nose and neck.  This is also the perfect product to add a believable sun-kissed glow to any complexion simply apply a little across the forehead, tops of the cheeks, jaw line and down the nose.

By Terry’s cream to powder Blush Veloute in #1 Apple Glow is irreplaceable to lend a healthy pop of colour to my cheeks, it also seems to tone with pretty much every colour of lipstick that I wear.

Using By Terry’s Ombre Veloutee #102 Peach Loukoum, make up artist Teo Sararu showed me how to softly highlight the tops of my cheekbones and by dusting a little at the cupid’s bow make my lips appear fuller – who knew an innocuous colour could wield so much drama!

Eyebrows this season should be strong, defined and groomed.  I keep Rubis tweezers handy to tidy up strays along with Laura Mercier’s lightly pigmented Triangular Brow Pencil in Brunette to fill in any spartan patches. By Terry’s Baume de Rose lip balm also doubles as my eyebrow wax and stops them from caterpillaring.

My version of tropical bright is a more subdued By Terry Ombre Soyeuse #7 Venetian Brown. I’m grounding this using her #8 Silky Plum eyeshadow as liner close to my upper and lower lashes to make the subsequent eyeshadow colour appear fashionable but a tad less orange.

My big play is on the lips, and my all time favourites, orange-red (Terrybly Rouge #200 Frenetic Vermilion) or true red (#201 Terrific Rouge) are bang on trend.

For evening I’m going with an iridescent smoky eye using Terry‘s Bronze Tamise eyeshadow a green shot with bronze mica, coupled with her liquid liner Ligne Blackstar in Bamboo Brown.

I always use my Space NK Eyelash Curler to maximize eyelash length and top it off with two coats of Terry‘s highly pigmented Terrybly Lash Growth Boosting Black Mascara.

Other make up bag essentials when I want to do that “No make up, 70s sun-kissed glow” are By Terry’s Hyaluronic Eye Primer #2 (fabulous on its own to cut the red out and brighten the entire eye area or to keep eyeshadow colour-true and in place all day long), Nars’ India Song and All about Eve eyeshadow duos, Sylvie Chantecaille’s Precision Eye Pencil in Bark for definition and her rosewater scented Faux Cils Mascara in Black my Apple Glow blush as before and Terry’s Terrybly Rouge #103 Plumping Nude – et voila, good to face the season ahead!