Spanafrican Adventures - The Blog

2016 Cycle Tour in Mongolia

2016-12-20T16:10:00.001+02:00

Writing and pictures by Charles Hughes, 2016 participant.

Going to bed with the sound of rain hammering down on my (not very watertight) tent, was rather depressing, but not nearly as bad as waking up, in my now damp sleeping bag, to the sound of even heavier rain still pounding down on the flimsy structure. I tried comforting myself with the thought that a tent always makes the rain sound worse than it actually is, but still, I was disappointed that our last riding day in Mongolia looked to a wet, cold and muddy affair.

Perhaps the pleasantly warm and dry weather we had had up until then was making me soft. A little rain and mud was nothing to what the locals experience in winter, when a blanket of frigid air sweeps down from the arctic, crosses Siberia and malignantly settles over Mongolia, causing temperatures to plummet down to -40 C.

A campsite with a view.

Braced with that thought, I leapt out of bed, which is an impressive feat when sleeping on the floor, and joined the other 11 riders as we prepared to splash off into the rain. The group’s resolution to ride every flipping inch (EFI in touring jargon) of the trip only lasted until the tea break, at about the 30km mark, when a quick pow-wow resulted in most of the group deciding to end their tour in the dry of our quaint, but spectacularly unreliable, Russian made support vehicles.

The thought of relaxing in the dry of the vehicles was tempting, but was a bit too much like giving up, so I joined Tristan and Carlos in riding on, but with some trepidation. My legs were not in great shape following the mini race Thys and I had had the previous day, up some surprisingly tough climbs. Mongolia is famous for its endlessly flat steppes, but in the North West, where we were riding, it was definitely more than a little hilly, at times reminding me of the Rockies with its pine covered mountains.

As always, it’s hard to avoid a bit of surreptitious racing on the hills.

Our pocket-sized Mongolian mechanic and guide, Turu, was probably less than thrilled that some of us felt impelled to ride on, and that he would have to join us in this foolishness. But with Turu it was hard tell, and he simply mounted his (extra small) bike and, like the wrestling champ he is, led us out for another 50km of wet and mud. The only time I saw Turu’s demeanour slip a bit was when Cheryl and Rose were going some minor surgery on his ankle, unfortunately without the benefit of any anaesthetic. It clearly hurt like hell, but it was clearly necessary as his ankle was a bit of a mess, and it healed quickly after their painful attentions.

Some Mongolian teamwork on display - Turu being playfully assisted by his boss.

Part of the reason I persevered in riding those last, muddy, 50kms (other than plain bloody mindedness) was because there was the prospect of hot showers and a dry bed that night. We were heading for a ‘Ger Camp’, a collection of the round, wooden framed and felt covered tents that are elsewhere known as Yurds, but in Mongolia are known as Gers. Being surprisingly spacious, warm and pretty water proof, sleeping in a Ger was going to be a bit of an improvement on a two-man tent.

The design of the Ger is fairly standard, and is thousands of years old, and yet they are still the only form of accommodation used by the local nomadic herders, and are the only structures that are seen outside of Mongolia’s few towns - and in rural Mongolia they even serve as motels.

As we peddled into our Ger camp on the outskirts of Karakorum (originally the fabulous capital of Genghis Khan, but now a sleepy backwater) it struck me that the Ger is a symbol of the significant contradictions that are evident in the modern Mongolian state. Gers are quite practical, and very picturesque, but also a bit archaic, and look strange, if not a bit ridiculous, when there is a late model Land Cruiser parked outside and satellite disks and solar panels decorate the roof. It is evident that the Mongolian herders, for all their ancient nomadic lifestyle, have done very well out of the burgeoning demand for protein from their increasingly wealthy Chinese neighbours. Although large herds of horses still grace the landscape, ever fewer Mongolians are riding them, and today motorcycles and jeeps are the preferred mode of transport.

Sunset over a Ger Camp motel

If Land Cruisers and Gers make strange bedfellows, then so too do other aspects of the Mongolian lifestyle, as is vividly displayed in the land ownership issue. In order to support their nomadic lifestyle, the herders have to be able to travel where they please, unhindered by farms and fences. This means that outside of the few Mongolian cities, there is no private ownership of land, and hence no farms and no fences.

With no private ownership of the land, there is little but local custom inhibiting herders from expanding their herds beyond the capacity of the available grazing. This has not yet developed into a social and environmental problem as Mongolia is one of the least populated countries around (next only to Namibia), with the harsh climate having previously limited herds (and herders). In more modern times a communist system limited herd sizes, but the introduction of a democratic government in 1984, and the un-leasing of free market forces, has resulted in Mongolia becoming vastly more prosperous, and the national herd growing very much larger. Competition for grazing rights is therefore likely to strain the current harmonious relationships between families and clans, and without private ownership of the land, resolving future land disputes is likely to become a major headache.

Not normal horse riding gear – and check out that horrendously uncomfortable saddle (Mongolians understandably ride standing-up)

BUT……… that’s a problem for the future - for now it’s heaven for mountain biking and outdoor types. It’s like the whole country is just one massive public park. Roads are scarce and most travel is by a bewildering web of jeep tracks crisscrossing hill and dale. Just turn off the road and ride where you like, camp where you like, and you do this over THOUSANDS of kilometres. You can also get horribly lost, so a guide is not a bad idea, as are support vehicles, as food and water are not readily available. The locals are friendly, but mostly just ignore the odd mad mountain biker, so you can just get out there and do your own thing - and above all, it’s big, beautiful and unspoilt.

Some hard-to-beat MTB territory

So, as we came to the end of our brief MTB tour of Mongolia (we only had time for 650 kms of riding), it was with some regret that I abandoned my hired bike (a not too bad giant 27.5) for the flight home and the looming chaos that is Beijing airport. Almost predictably, two of our group missed our connecting flight to JHB, and for some time we feared that they might be lost forever in the airport chaos.

Now for that Moroccan trip……

Hiking in the Drakensberg with Spanafrican Adventures

2015-12-31T19:33:00.001+02:00

A 3-day hike in the Little Berg - Amira, Sook Leen and Hermina - March 2012

2012-03-14T22:16:00.000+02:00

A typical scene in the Little Berg with the ever-present layer of Clarens Sandstone

One of the perks of working as a mountain guide is that you meet lots of interesting people. Amira from Algeria, Sook Leen from Malaysia and Hermina from Romania, are all now living and working in London. They met eight years ago when they started working in banking and have lived there ever since. They came to South Africa for a wedding but also took the opportunity to see more than just Franschhoek. Amira, being the most adventurous of the three, convinced Sook Leen and Hermina to join her for a hike in the Drakensberg. It was out of their comfort zone but a very enjoyable experience, it seemed.

If you would like to do this hike contact us at info@spanafrican-adventures.co.za or have a look at our website www.spanafrican-adventures.co.za for other exciting options.

Along the path that leads to Stable Cave and Vaalribbokkop Cave

Vaalribbokkop Cave is one of the few hospitable caves in the Monk's Cowl area

The Hospitalspruit Valley

Swimming in a large pool in the Mhlawazini Valley

Walking up the Mhlawazini Valley towards Zulu Cave

Zulu Cave, a well known cave in the area

A quick fix against sharp grass

Breakfast in Zulu Cave before our last day's walk to Monk's Cowl Camp

Walking out from Zulu Cave. in the background.

Climbing up steeply from the Mhlawazini Cave towards the contour path

A curious lizard during one of our breaks

Final shot at Monk's Cowl Camp. From left to rigth: Hermina, Sook Leen, Amira and my self. At the bottom row our super helpful porters Kumbulane and Geoffrey.

Pondo-Pedal – A Wild Coast Ride from Port Edward to Mtentu

2012-03-05T21:06:00.000+02:00

A piece of paradise

A few weeks ago we joined our friends from Active Escapes for a ride along the Wild Coast. The Wild Coast is an incredible 300km stretch of virtually pristine coastline from Port Edward to East London. I usually guide their Wild Ride mountain bike tour in the Wild Coast which runs from Kei Mouth to Port St John’s, a 200km ride of sheer fun and fatigue. However I had never visited this northern part of the coast.

Mtentu River Lodge was finally reopened again 7 months ago. Only 25km by foot from Port Edward it makes for a perfect and much-needed overnight stop on any hike or cycle along this part of the Wild Coast.

Active Escapes has now launched their new 3-day mountain bike escape, a return cycle trip from Port Edward to Mtentu with 2 overnights at Mtentu River Lodge and a full day at Mtentu which gives you time to, for example, to explore the magnificent Mkambati reserve and the spectacular Strandloper and Horse Shoe Falls, a 10km return hike.

If you are interested in this cycle tour please contact Sarah Drew at sarah@active-escapes.co.za, cell: 084 240 7277, phone:033 330 6131.

The start of our ride from Wild Coast Sun Resort in Port Edward

Mzamba River mouth - The only river crossing along the way is right at the beginning.

Pushing our way out of the river valley

Sometimes it's better to carry your bike over your shoulders

The Mzamba River mouth

Still pushing up the from valley

And finally on the bikes!

You have to be an skilled mountain biker to ride in this part of the world

Vaughan leading the group, with Sarah and Bridget at the rear.

Up again on a rocky and grassy slope

Everybody with their heads down focused on the trail

Finally on a welcomed open road

Beautiful rolling rural landscape

Arriving in Mnyameni Falls

Karen refreshing in the Mnyameni River.

The Mnyameni Falls

Paul Colvin has been riding his bike for many years.

Into signle track again

Bridget competently keeping his bike in the narrow lane

Mtentu Estuary

Mtentu River Lodge where we stayed for 2 nights

The second day we went for a walk to the Strandloper Falls in the Mkambati River

The big pool is completely hidden from the main path

Mkambati River Mouth

Going back to Mtentu River Lodge

Crossing the Mtentu River

Renee and Bridget enjoying the ride, while Dave is hard at work

Vaughan, volunteering as a ferryman

The Mtentu River mouth - The Mtentu River Lodge is right on the oposite shore

The setting of the Mtentu River Lodge is just spectacular

Threatening clouds hovering over the Mtentu River Lodge

Amphitheatre Heritage Hike - Bernhard and Christine - February 2012

2012-03-05T20:52:00.000+02:00

Bernhard and Christine with the iconic Amphitheatre

Bernhard and Christine from Cologne in Germany had hiked to Zulu Cave with me in February last year. They enjoyed their trip so much that they came for a second trip this February. I was once again happy to assist them with another hike. On their last visit they have only experienced the berg from the foothills so it seemed appropriate to share the experience of having a bird’s eye view of this incredible mountain range from the top of the escarpment. The easiest way to do this is by hiking to the top of the Amphitheatre from the Sentinel Car Park via the famous Chain Ladder.

If you would like to do this hike contact us at info@spanafrican-adventures.co.za or have a look at our website www.spanafrican-adventures.co.za for other exciting options.

Clilmbing to the top of the escarpment from the Cavern

The gap that gives access to the escarpment is a very narrow and rocky gully. At some point you need to be in all fours.

Once on top it levels off. The rest of the way is a pleasant walk by the escarpment with beautiful views of the Royal Natal National Park on the east and the QuaQwa area on the west.

We couldn't ask for better weather for February. In the background the Sugarloaf is visible.

Views from Witsieshoek Mountain Resort: From the Amphitheatre to Cathkin Peak in the Monk's Cowl Area

The mighty Amphitheatre before in the twilight

The next day on our way to the Chain Ladder. From right to left: The Sentinel, The Witches, the Easter Buttress and the Vemvaan Valley in the Royal Natal area

Christine with breathtaking views of the Amphitheatre

A little break before the Gully

There are 2 ways to get to the top of Amphitheatre: The Chain Ladder and the Gully. Here climbing up the step loose-rocky Gully.

The Gully is a 200m stiff scramble!

A panoramic shot of the Sentinel with the Royal Natal National Park in the background.

The Amphitheatre is a 5 km wall that stretches from the Sentinel Peak to the Easter Buttres

The Amphitheatre and the Tugela Falls

On the way back we decided to go down the Chain Ladder. Christine has just finished the first set of ladder.

And now the second and longest section of the Chain Ladders.

Bernhard doesn't like heights so It took lots of will power to go down the Chain Ladder

Views of the QwaQua Area from the Chain Ladder.

For me, the picture of the trip. Absolutely stunning!

Bernhard and Christine exhilirated after coming back from the Amphitheatre

The bestl light conditions for photography are usually in the evening.

A last shot of the big wall.

Giant’s Castle with Markus and Christiana – February 2012

2012-02-15T20:51:00.000+02:00

Markus and Christiana from Munich with Giant's Castle

Giant’s Castle, the easternmost point on the Natal escarpment, is a prominent peak in the Drakensberg. 3314m above sea level it is the 10th highest point in South Africa and can be ‘easily’ climbed on foot via the Giant’s Castle Pass, its head being only 2km from the summit.

While researching for their 3-week holiday in South Africa, Markus and Christiana from Munich had read about the Giants Castle in the Drakensberg Mountains, and decided to start their journey with a hike in the area.

If you would like to do this hike contact us at info@spanafrican-adventures.co.za or have a look at our website www.spanafrican-adventures.co.za for other exciting options.

Christiana hiking up Giant's Ridge

First close view of Giant's Castle Pass

We arrived at our campsite just before the afternoon thunderstorms

The next day we hid our backpacks and went for the top unladen

Even without a backpack on Giant's Castle pass is a long 800m ascent

As you approach the top of the pass this gets steeper and rockier

Not far from the top now

Once on the escarpment all the hard work is rewarded with stunning panoramic vistas

Markus with the Long Wall in the background

Our campsite for our 2 nights in the Berg - No bad, hey?

The last day we woke up to a rainy morning - It was time to leave the mountains

We packed everything and waited in our tents for the first break in the rain to get moving.

Mafadi with Bradley, Ruan, Peter and Donovan - January 2012

2012-02-06T11:20:00.000+02:00

The escarpment illuminated by the first beams of sunlight

The first hike in 2012 was Mafadi, our most popular hike in the Berg. Bradley, Ruan, Peter and Donovan, 4 fun-loving law students from Pretoria, made up a super vibrant party. It was their first trip to the escarpment so this was a great adventure for them, a great way to charge batteries before the start of their final year at university.

If you would like to do this hike contact us at info@spanafrican-adventures.co.za or have a look at our website www.spanafrican-adventures.co.za for other exciting options.

Our campsite by the Centenary Hut. We had walked in the mist most of the day

In the evening started to clear up, which allowed for the first vistas of the escarpment

It got better and better

Finally we could appreciate what a fantastic campsite we were at

The clouds hovering around us made it even more photogenic

Our lightweight shelter for the following 3 nights

What followed was a festival of colour

It was as though the sky was on fire

Last tea before bed

Sunrise at 5:30am

Not a cloud in the sky

panoramic shot of the escarpment

From Giants Castle Ridge to the Trojan Wall

From the Triplets to Cathkin Peak

Break at the bottom of Judge's Pass

Judge's Pass: 700m in 2.3km

A local Basotho with his Basotho pony

Views from 1000m high basalt cliffs

Our campsite by the Injisuthi Triplets

5:15am before sunrise - The Corner sticking out of the escarpment

I stuck my arm out to take this pciture on the edge of the escarpment

As close as you can get

Sunrise of the 3rd day

sunrise by the Corner

It takes a little longer for the sunlight to reach the valleys in the Little Berg

Eastern Injisuthi Triplet

Upper Injisuthi Cave

The group on top of Mafadi

Panorama from the roof of South Africa

Contemplation at 3450m above sea level

Our first Basotho shepherd

A sheep leader

Wild flowers growing out of the basalt rock

Another young shepherd. Basotho in their late adolescence are sent to the mountains as an initiation into adulthood.

A break above the Lesser and Greater Injisuthi Buttresses

Following the edge of the escarpment down to the top of Leslie's Pass

The Basotho shepherds are always accompanied by the loyal dogs.

Intercultural picture at the top of Leslie’s Pass, before going back to the South African side of the Drakensberg.

With a total descent of 1000m in 2.6km, Leslies Pass makes you wish you were going up instead.

Fortunately, at the bottom there are a few rewards

Our campsite at the bottom of Leslies Pass

A break in the bushy section from the bottom of Leslies Pass to Marble Baths

Marble Baths - How cool is that?

This one deserves a close-up

An another one!

Peter enjoying the jacuzzi-like Marble Baths

Relaxing before the final 8km back to camp

The end - From left to right: Bradley, Ruan, Peter and Donovan, 4 intrepids soon-to-be lawyers from Pretoria.

New Year's Eve at Tarn Cave - December 2011

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Tarn Cave is big and deep overhang in the Clarens sandstone with fantastic 180-degree views.

Finally, this year I had the opportunity to spend a New Year’s Eve in the Drakensberg. Our friend James Voortman had scheduled a combined meet for the Mountain Club of South Africa and the Mountain Backpackers hiking club of Durban, and invited us to join them. Tarn cave, one of the finest natural shelters in the whole range, was the chosen venue. Located in the Bushman’s Nek Area in the southern Drakensberg, a 10km moderate walk from the main camp, this deep overhang in the Clarens sandstone has great vast panoramic views all the way from the Devil’s Knuckles to the Garden Castle.

If you would like to do this hike contact us at info@spanafrican-adventures.co.za or have a look at our website www.spanafrican-adventures.co.za for other exciting options.

During our wet summer the rivers in the foothills of the Berg fill up with water.

Moraea inclinata

Watsonia socium

Following a side valley towards the top of the Little Berg.

On our way up we were caught in a big storm.

We got a little wet but it didn’t last long. Here, our friends Julia, Shannon and myself keeping the spirits high.

Although the sun was shining again the weather was still looking threatening.

On our way up along the last steep ridge leading to the high plateau.

More Watsonia socium.

Views from Tarn Cave.

Julia and Shannon making themselves home.

The Devil’s Knuckles with Watsonia socium out of focus.

Changing the focus to the Watsonia.

Watsonia lepida.

One of the tarns on the plateau which give name to the cave.

Shannon enjoying one of the jacuzzi-like ponds in the area.

Satyrium cristatum.

Dierama pauciflorum.

Another natural pool. Pity of the cold weather.

Enjoying a big hail storm from the comfort of our shelter.

The last beam of the day’s sunlight right after the storm.

Opening the first bottle of champagne. We were suspecting we wouldn’t make it to midnight.

This picture gives you an idea of how deep the cave is.

A picture of Bridget and myself taken by photo-enthusiast Anthony van Tonder.

January 1st, 2012.

Another Moraea inclinata.

It was a fantastic day so we went for a short walk in the area before heading back home.

The group enjoying the unladen walk.

The ever-present Devil’s Knuckles.

The man and the mountains.

One of the first proteas in flower in the season.

Enjoying a swim in Cedric’s pool, along the Ngwangwane River.

Cedric’s pool is a well-know pool in the Bushman’s Nek Area, only 5km from the camp.

A 3 day hike in the Cathedral Peak Area - December 2011

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The long steep climb to Cleft Peak

Sue and Roger are ones of the many South Africans living in the UK. Christmas is always a good time to come back home for a family holiday, recharge and take a break from the long, cold, rainy English winter. For them, a few days hiking in the Drakensberg at the start of their holiday was the quickest way to switch off from the busy city life.

If you would like to do this hike contact us at info@spanafrican-adventures.co.za or have a look at our website www.spanafrican-adventures.co.za for other exciting options.

A little scrambling right at the start of the hike: "where the heck are we going?"

Sue replenishing her salts with chips, a must-have snack when hiking.

As the day progressed the usual summer afternoon thunderstorms developed

We were surrounded by localised storms but somehow we were never caught.

Following the long ridge towards Organ Pipes Pass, far in the distance.

Once you get to the base of the basalt cliffs the path levels off...

...until we reach the grassy slope leading to the top of the pass, clearly visible in the background.

At our idyllic campsite with all the cooking paraphernalia. (I look like I’m dancing or something)

The following morning the day started with a long steep climb to Cleft Peak. We quickly took most of our layers off. The weather conditions were perfect: cool and windless.

On Cleft Peak summit. We got as close as we could to the edge of the escarpment to admire the great views below and around us, from Cathkin Peak to Eastern Buttress.

At 3280m, 1800m higher than our starting point, we really felt like we have come a long way.

Right above the cleft. I couldn’t go a step further. What a great shot!

Looking north: the Column and the Pyramid in the foreground, the Cathedral Peak Range in the middle ground and Eastern Buttress right at the back.

A few hundred meters away from Twins cave, somewhere on the left hand side, overlooking Mlabonja Pass.

Early the following morning, before the start of our descent.

Looking back to where we were coming from. Twins Cave is on the other side of the saddle.

Looking down the Mlabonja Pass.

Any downhill is easier if you use hiking poles.

All the passes in the Drakensberg are very steep and, when going down, care must be taken to avoid injuries.

The strong thick grass is great for support and balance.

It was a very hot day but fortunately we were walking right by the Mlabonja River, its clear crystal waters more appealing than ever.

During the last kilometres of our hike, now on easier terrain, we would often look back with wonder at the mountains we had been privileged to enjoy.

An Afro-Italian hike to Mafadi - November 2011

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The party on the escarpment. From left to right: Simona, Tank, Valerio and Elna.

A few months had elapsed since my last visit to the High Berg so I was really excited to this hike. This time the party was made up of Valerio and Simona from Italy and Elna and Tank from Pretoria, a nice Afro-Italian mix. This was my 6th hike to Mafadi in 2011 but, no matter how many times you hike in the Drakensberg, it is always a different and inspirational experience.

If you would like to do this hike contact us at info@spanafrican-adventures.co.za or have a look at our website www.spanafrican-adventures.co.za for other exciting options.

On the first day the Dragon’s mountains were looking a little moody.

Tenting by the Centenary Hut. Unfortunately, the hut is completely derelict and not very hospitable these days.

The short but steep 300m section towards the contour path right at the start of the second day.

Notice the Centenary Hut in the background

Simona and Valerio working hard up Judges pass: a vertical ascent of 700m in only 2.3km.

Once on the escarpment we could enjoy clear blue skies. The westerly winds coming from Lesotho usually prevent the clouds from advancing over the escarpment.

Views from our campsite by the Injisuthi Triplets. Cathkin peak always looming in the background.

A typical social evening in the mountains. We were all happy to keep out of the cold wind.

On top of Mafadi. Believe it or not this is what it looks like on the highest point in South Africa.

Fearless Tank getting a little too close to the cliffs.

Tank with the Lesser and the Greater Injisuthi Butresses.

Elna and the Greater Injisuthi Butress

Head of Leslies Pass, our way down from the escarpment. Here Tank was helping me to show the scale.

Zooming in.

And a bit closer.

The first metres down Leslies Pass. The pass is 2.6km long over rough terrain with a total vertical elevation of 1000m.

It takes about 3 hours to complete. You’d never say 2.6km could take so long, would you?

Here we’re almost done. The head of the pass is right in the middle of the picture, the left one of the 2 small saddles.

At Marble Baths on the last day. This pool is a paradise for tired hikers. From here is "only" 8km to the head trail. Notice the Greater Injisuthi Buttress high above us in the background, which we were overlooking 2 days before.

Accomplished hikers at the end of the hike.