Now that we’ve settled in, each day brings a slightly more clear picture of what the future holds. And as some of these restrictions are eased, “normal” life starts to creep back in. At least, until the next big surge and we all have to hide in our homes again. Who knows?

But if we can continue to slowly mitigate this thing, and the economy doesn’t collapse into some kind of Mad Max-like dystopia, here are some predictions on how this pandemic might transform climbing this year and beyond.

TR soloing with a buddy becomes the new normal

The other day a friend invited me to go top rope soloing with him. Maybe this is the new normal? I’m still choosing not to climb, but it made me laugh to think of the two of us driving separately to the cliff, setting up our own TR solos, and cragging near, but not with, each other. I think most folks agree that the real issue with climbing right now isn’t the unlikely scenario of catching the virus from holds, but from your partner and the people you are around. With TR soloing, we could all be alone together! (But not too many of us!)

A bunch of new crags will get developed

Locked and loaded, who wants new routes?

I’m guessing that many of the route developers out there will take this opportunity to go scout those crags they’ve always wondered about, or never made the time for. (Kind of like how I feel about the long-overdue redesign of this website). It doesn’t get more socially distant than hanging off a rope at some cliff no one knows about. With this will come a bevy of pandemic themed route names, so you can look forward to being able to climb a “Flattening the Curve” and “Social Distancing” in every state with rock from here on out.

Obscure crags will become popular

Somewhere near Redstone, CO…

I can’t even wrap my head around what climbing in Rifle will look like this summer, it just seems so unlikely that people will actually abide by social distancing rules. “My project is more important than your health, bro.” So for those who don’t want to risk exposure to asymptomatic carriers breathing heavily all over the Ruckman Cave, the next best option is to seek out the obscure. In fact, just last weekend I was out for a hike and saw folks climbing at a cliff I have driven by hundreds of times and never seen anyone at. 2020 will be the year of the obscure! (Unless everyone does this, then Rifle might actually be safer.)

Home walls continue to see a rise in popularity

If you’ve tried to buy a hangboard in the last month, you know they are flying off the shelves, and this trend will likely continue. Gyms are nice, but nothing beats the convenience of being able to get strong at home, and as more people are turned on to this, we will probably see an increase in this kind of training. What will be interesting to see is what percentage of folks will keep using theirs for more than a couple of months. Like any shiny new toy, the luster tends to wear off after you realize you’re the one that has to reset the wall every time you want new stuff to climb on.

Turns out all we needed to do was hang off small edges after all

The new Metolius Prime Rib has been my lockdown training companion. Note the fancy adaptation of the hangboard to a pull-up bar.

It’ll be pretty funny when a bunch of climbers come out of this thing way honed and crush everything in sight once they get back on the rocks. While mega-gyms are super fun, they aren’t very effective for actually building strength, unlike hanging off small edges at home. There’s a ton of good info out there about training at home, and those of you that don’t get injured will probably reach new levels of crusher-ness.

Gyms will see their profitability plummet

New guidelines might cut the amount of routes in this photo by 1/2 to 2/3. Yikes.

Kind of like thinking about Rifle, it’s hard to imagine climbing gyms being what they once were. We have a long way to go as far as knowing what the future will look like, but some groups have taken a preliminary stab at what might work to get them open again. You can read it yourself here, but fewer climbs, limited hours, and mandatory facemasks will likely cut down on traffic to climbing gyms. And since everyone will now have their own home walls, hangboards, etc. they might realize they don’t even need the gyms after all (except it’s nice to see friends, that would be nice…)

This thing is such a moving target, who knows what will really happen. Maybe the economy fully collapses and we starting stripping cliffs of bolts for the metal scraps to sell. Maybe this is the start of our descent into post-apocalyptic madness, in which case the folks buying up all the guns and booze might have a leg up on the rest of us. Or maybe we find some magical cure (not Lysol) and a vaccine comes sooner than hoped.

Only time will tell, but please everyone continue to be safe and do your part to help contain this thing. Better days are coming.

Patagonia

The DAS Parka, gone for three seasons, is back. Weighing 19.5 ounces, it uses 133 grams of Primaloft Gold insulation Eco. Compressibility was a big concern for the redesign, as no one wants a giant belay parka that takes up most of their pack. Also, it features a plastic zipper for improved functionality in cold conditions. Retail is $499.

They also had the DAS Light Hoody, basically the Micro Puff with a liner, and 25% warmer than that jacket, with improved durability as well. It weighs 11 ounces and retail is $379.

In a somewhat odd departure from the norm, they were also showcasing what they are calling their Untethered Kit, which includes a wood burning stove, a cook pot, a stripped down pack (Middle Fork Pack), and super light sleeping bag (creatively called, the Lightweight Sleeping Bag, 11 oz). Promoting getting out and away from it all as simply as possible, this will probably appeal to the minimalists out there. It’s an idea that apparently Yvonne Chouinard has been tinkering with for ten years, and it’ll be interesting to see how it is received by the public. You can buy all the items together or separately.

La Sportiva

A major trend among the shoe companies the last couple of years has been geared toward putting out models that will appeal to the ever-growing gym climber segment of the sport. In that vein, Sportiva has two new entry-level shoes, the Zenit and the Aragon. The Zenit ($129) is aimed at intermediate climbers, with a 5mm sole for longevity in the gym environment. The Aragon is $99, a perfect first shoe for those new to the sport.

Scarpa

The Drago is a great shoe, but a little too high volume for my narrow low profile feet. Thankfully, there must be others out there like me because the Drago LV, coming out in the fall, is a lower volume version of the popular slipper. And unlike some low volume models, it has a full size range, which I’m thrilled about for my size 45 feet. The shoe is everything you love in the regular model, paired with a new heel, what they call the Pressure Absorbing Fit (PAF), designed to reduce pressure on the heel without sacrificing performance.

They’ve also got a women’s Instinct Lace, which also features the new PAF heel.

And lastly, again going after the more entry-level climbers, the Reflex V is an $89 shoe with stylings that reminded me of the Tron movies for some reason.

Five Ten

The Hiangle Pro is one of the few truly innovative ideas I’ve seen in quite some time. Similar to the La Sportiva No Edge technology, it looks to address the more modern style of competition climbing and bouldering on compression features and difficult smears. The edge has a classic shape at the toe, and then wraps around on to the top of the shoe for the inside edge, leaving a highly stick, smearable surface. Also, the heel is one piece, designed to glom on to heel hooks like no other shoe before it. It’s made from 15 separate pieces, with a TPU insert across the toe for rigidity on edges. It will debut in Europe and Japan, and then follow in the States.

Black Diamond

Only a few small things here, as most of their focus was on the snow sports aspect of their business. There is a new Crack Glove ($39.95), which they tried to keep as thin as possible, addressing a common complaint with these new school crack tools. It’ll be interesting to see how they hold up. There are also four new ice climbing gloves, with a seamless pinky for improved comfort hanging off of leashless tools where much of the weight ends up on your little finger. Also some new travel duffels that look nice, though I’m skeptical about anything that doesn’t have wheels these days.

Outdoor Research

The Archangel Jacket ($699) is their new winter climbing ensemble, and among the first products to feature the newest iteration of Gore-Tex Pro fabric. Utilizing a combination of stretch panels and more breathable sections, it seeks to offer the highest level of breathability, durability and freedom of movement.

Thank you to all who took the time to meet with me and show me the goods!

Heading down after a great day at the crag.

How do I even begin to describe this trip? So many unknowns came together in the most beautiful way possible to create a trip I will always remember with a heart full of gratitude. We’d taken R climbing enough times to know we could make that part happen, and we’d taken her on one two-day camping trip before this to get our systems dialed. But how would all the pieces fit being on the road for two weeks with a 6-month-old? What about the long car ride? And then of course there was all the bolting drama on top of it.

Well, the short version is that it was amazing. We’d spent a week there the year before, when Tracy was pregnant, and the whole time we were also keeping an eye towards what it would be like with an infant. We left confident that the Rock Ranch would be an ideal spot with a little one, and indeed it was. The easy camping, the showers, the bathrooms, the running water. The wifi is great when you need to stay connected to the world outside the canyon, and the Andersons are gracious hosts. There’s enough extra stuff going on with an infant, and staying at the Rock Ranch takes away a lot of the guesswork.

Tracy cruising a long pitch of perfect pockets.

For the climbing, we stuck to crags that were less than 20 minutes from the car, as carrying the baby and all her extra stuff made for some invigorating approaches, and we didn’t want to be too committed (No French Cattle Ranch this year .)  It was relatively easy to find good sheltered spots for R to post up that we would base camp out of. Also, having a shade/rain tarp was crucial. There was one day when the forecast called for a chance of rain, so we set up the tarp when we got to the crag, and when the showers did come, we could duck inside, with all of our stuff and the baby staying dry. The rain passed in a few minutes, and we were able to climb the rest of the day. Likewise, if we climbed at a morning shade zone and got caught in the sun, we could stick R under the tarp and keep climbing. It took more work to get to and stay at the crag, so doing whatever we could to make the most of our time was important.

The baby and set up at the crag.

It also seems like Ten Sleep is so massive that you rarely see a ton of other people, which is nice when you are managing the safety of a little one. There’s enough going on when you take your baby cragging, so it’s nice to not have to also be thinking about things like rockfall from someone else, dogs that aren’t friendly, etc.

And of course, having an amazing third adult was huge! We made a decision early on that we would not go climbing with just the three of us until the kiddo is old enough to take care of herself at the cliff. So we always bring a third, and we were lucky to have an amazing person come with us who loved R as much as the climbing. And sure you don’t move as fast with three, but we generally got 6-8 pitches in each on a given day, which felt like plenty for a trip where we were climbing two days on, one day off.

We stopped in Sinks on the way to Ten Sleep, the stoke was high!

As for all the drama with chipped holds and such, everyone we ran into thought the whole thing was silly. The general feeling was that Louie got carried away, but that the vigilante response was childish and had a predictable result, and everyone was ready to move on. The red padlocks were stupid and way more of an eyesore than a drilled pocket (side note, we never saw anything as egregious as some of the photos posted online. Maybe all four of those pockets got filled in?). Some feel it was worth it, but I wonder if they will feel that way in eight years when bolting is still banned. I can tell you from experience that the feds don’t move quickly on this stuff, and once it’s shut down, it’s simply easier just to leave things that way. Too bad, there’s a lot of undeveloped rock in those parts!

At the end of two weeks, we felt like we could have stayed out for a month. We fell into a simple routine of wake up, eat, climb, eat, go to bed and repeat. R loves being outside, and I even started to feel fit on the heavy hikes to the crag. It was an amazing thing to be back on the road, with our little one, doing the things we’ve always enjoyed doing together. Sure, this version was different, but because we had our kid along, it was so much more special. This kind of trip won’t be for everyone, but if you are looking for a great place to road trip with your little one, I would put Ten Sleep at the top of your list.

Suns out, guns (and baby’s) out!

All those years of bolting new routes has prepared me for this!

I’ve been laying low from the blog space for most of this year, but not because there hasn’t been a lot going on. In fact, we’ve been as busy as ever, as we welcomed our new daughter in February, and it’s been an amazing journey introducing her to the world around us. I’ve been hesitant to post anything about our adventures as a family, because having a child is an intensely personal experience which is different for everyone, and I also never want to seem “braggy” about our life. 

After much contemplation, however, I’ve decided to talk about our adventures and approach to climbing with a kid, because when I was a father-to-be, there just wasn’t much out there that I could find that I actually found helpful. On that note, one crazy thing about having kids is how much people will be haters and want to tell you how “bad” it will be. You’ll never sleep again (we do), you’ll never climb hard again (not true), you’ll only climb in places like Rifle that are next to the car (also not true). 

I’ve always tried to use SplitterChoss as a voice of positivity and perspective in the climbing world, and I see a new opportunity to do so as a father who continues to be as passionate and driven as ever about climbing. 

The stories I share will be our own, unique to our circumstance and place in life. I’m not saying everyone can do it like we do, but I do want to put our version out there, so when other parents-to-be are looking for inspiration and ideas for what climbing with kids in your life can be, they can take something positive away from this space. 

One last note is that the perspective will mostly be my own, as a father, which is way different than being a woman who gave birth to a child and has all that to work back through. Hopefully Tracy will chime in from time to time and give her thoughts as well, and I’ll talk about our shared experiences as much as I can.

Regardless, a few years ago when I heard La Sportiva was creating a climbing specific line of clothing, I broke out the incense and chimes and began praying to the editorial deities for a review opportunity. My dedication finally paid off and I am now happy to share my impressions of five pieces from La Sportiva’s 2019 summer clothing line up.

I used the threads during windy and brisk trad-climbing adventure in Eldorado Canyon, while enduring sun drenched bolt clipping joy on Colorado’s Front Range, and when pad smashing and pebble wrestling in the Flat Irons. I even spent a few days in the Land of Choss…oh how I love Western Slope rock. And as most folks live in the climbing duds they buy, I added yoga, hiking, coffee drinking and all-purpose lounging to the testing regime as well. Here are my impressions of a few of my favorite pieces from their current lineup.

Bleauser Short – $79

The Bleauser Short’s climber friendly design quickly made them my go-to piece when the weather heated up. The stretchy organic cotton fabric (with 2% Spandex) and gusseted crotch allowed me to use my full leg and hip range of motion without feeling constricted, while the elastic waist with draw cord ensured a perfect fit at the hips. The low profile front and rear pockets lay flat under a harness with no bunching or chafing and a 12-inch inseam prevented the fitted legs from ridding up when hanging in a harness. Plus, they come in eight colors, from muted earth tones to bright eye-catching blues and reds.

Cave Jeans – $69

At first glance, the Cave Jeans are many things. Think funky euro styling meets old-school dark blue denim sensibility. And it works. I received numerous compliments and inquiries into where I had gotten the jeans the very first time I wore them. Now add in a full elastic waist that is excellent under a harness, articulated knees, gusseted crotch, slim tapered long legs, and an outrageously stretchy fabric (98% polyester, 2% spandex corduroy) and you’ve got a rarity; a piece with both unabashed style and supreme function. Climbing in them was a treat as they are the first pants I’ve worn that allowed me to high step with zero fabric resistance. Finally, keep it in mind that mine shrank noticeably after being nuked in a hot dryer and the waist can be a little squirrely under the waist-belt of pack, something a draw cord would eliminate.

Trip Hoodie – $59

The Trip Hoodie looks like a basic piece, but don’t let this modesty fool you. Its constructed with a specially engineered DriRelease® fabric (85% polyester, 15% cotton / dries 4x faster than cotton) that kept me cool and shielded in the direct sun, warm in the shade, and when layered under a standard fleece on cool days, oh so toasty. I even started wearing the Trip Hoodie to work. The hood is well sized and non-obtrusive when lying flat, the arms are long, and the waist is sized to stay tucked under a harness. After wearing the Trip Hoodie for the last two months while climbing, at work, and casually, it has become one of my all-time favorites.

Chilam Hoody – $75

I’ve been slightly obsessed with hoodies ever since watching Rocky Balboa run the streets of Philly in a classic grey department store model. So, when the delivery from La Sportiva arrived, the first thing I tried on was the 100% organic cotton Chilam Hoody. I was not disappointed. The size small perfectly fit my long arms and skinny waist, a high zipper provided plenty of cozy neck coverage regardless of whether the hood was deployed and the two exterior pockets feature a comfy lining, as does the hood. Plus, when reaching tall over my head, either for a distant hold or forgotten bottle of wine on the top shelf of the kitchen cabinet, the Chilam Hoody’s raglan sleeves provided excellent shoulder girdle range of motion. Rocky would be proud!

To find out more, be sure to visit their website. They also have a cool in-house magazine for unique rock climbing lore that you can check out here.

Disclaimer: Wait! Before you go handing over your credit card number, ask yourself, do you really need to buy more new stuff? If so, these products are worth a look. In the spirit of full disclosure, they were provided to SplitterChoss.com for the purpose of reviewing. Don’t worry, though, our integrity can’t be bought!

Black Diamond

The new Z4 Camalots were the highlight here, which look to combine the best aspects of the C3s and X4s (which are both now out of production). The Z4s feature a unique stem that is rigid while placing the unit but flexes when loaded which should reduce the walking that can occur with rigid-stemmed cams. The head width is very small, I was told it’s equal to the C3s, but with four cams. And the lobes are sandblasted, which is supposed to result in better holding power. Retail will be $69.95 and they are also available in an offset version.

The Vision helmet, EPP and EPS foam topped with a polycarbonate shell, is the most durable foam lid in the BD line up. Weighs 210 grams.

The airNet harness uses an innovative Dyneema construction to create a super light (8.3 oz) harness meant for high-end sport climbing and competitions. The airNet structure reduces pressure points and distributes the load evenly across the “net.” It’ll be really interesting to try this out, to see how the comfort stacks up. It also uses innovative construction for the belay loop, which uses a single piece of material with bartacking like a traditional loop. $160.

Scarpa

The Scarpa Booster is a redesign of the Booster S with a couple of key changes. It features a new last designed to improve comfort without sacrificing performance. Also, the seamless toe box uses Alcantara, a synthetic material that conforms to the shape of the user’s toe for a precise fit. The Pressure Absorbing Heel creates a soft, form-fitting heel pocket. And the midsole has an ultra-thin flexan inset to add support without sacrificing sensitivity. $189.

The Veloce is a soft shoe aimed at a wider range of users than Scarpa’s high-end soft shoe offerings (Furia S, Drago and Chimera). Acknowledging that many indoor climbers, even beginners, enjoy the comfort of a softer shoe, the Veloce aims to meet them where they are at, with features that aren’t quite as specialized as their other super soft offerings. The rubber is a unique blend developed by Scarpa to be sticky and durable for indoor use. Retail will be $139, which is quite a bit cheaper than most of the other soft shoes out there.

La Sportiva

Speaking of ultra-soft shoes, Scarpa has been dominating the market, but Sportiva is looking to change that with the new Theory. The single strap slipper uses a combo of No-Edge technology on the sides and standard edge construction at the toe. The rubber also decreases in thickness from 3.5mm to 2mm to keep the shoe as light as possible. This is aimed at comp climbers and those who want as little between their feet and the rock as possible. Available in men’s and women’s versions. $190.

From left to right, Solution Comp, Theory & Cobra 4:99.

The Solution Comp upgrades the Solution with a softer heel aimed at better heel hooking for boulderers and more rubber on the toe for better toe hooking. Available in men’s and women’s versions. $185.

And the Cobra 4:99 is designed for the speed climbers out there, gunning for the sub-5 second time in the Olympics. It’s a pared down version of the Cobra with a ½ sole of XS Grip2 rubber weighing a scant 160g. $150.

Patagonia

Patagonia has a new Ascentionist pack that is highly customizable, with an improved design to keep weight over the lumbar spine. Available in 35L ($149) and 55L ($169) versions.

Adidas / Five Ten

Adidas continues to push the edge of environmental sustainability. They are putting out the first fully recyclable shoe in 2020, becoming the first brand to do so. And by 2024, they have committed to using 0% virgin plastic in any of their products. That’s huge for a company of their size. A cool layer I saw here was the Agravic Rain, a 3 layer seam taped jacket for $125 that was incredibly light. On the Five Ten side, there is the Kirigami, a new entry-level shoe and redesigned Hiangle. Also, the Kirigami comes in a kids version that performs well even if their foot doesn’t fill the whole space, leaving room for growth without having to buy a new pair of shoes every six months.

Edelrid

Edelrid Swift Protect 8.9 uses a new manufacturing process that weaves aramid into the sheath. Aramid is heat resistant and extremely strong, which gives improved durability and cut resistance. While there is no universal standard for rope cutting resistance, in tests developed and performed by Edelrid, the 8.9 Protect exhibited the same cut resistance as a 10mm rope. The technology needed to weave the static aramid fibers into a dynamic rope took years to develop but has the potential to substantially change the way ropes are manufactured. One of the biggest issues with skinny ropes has been their lack of durability so this could be a truly new direction for rope manufacturers. (It’s also worth noting over half their harnesses are bluesign certified.)

Metolius

Metolius had some cool new training products, at prices that should make them very attractive. The Light Rail is a portable hangboard for training on the go or warming up at the crag. At $29.95 it’s significantly cheaper than other offerings out there. They also have Wood Rock Rings, at $34.95 and the new Prime Rib, a simple wooden hangboard for $49.95.

A huge thanks to everyone who I met with at all these companies!

As a new dad, I now have a different perspective on time. A good friend once told me that when I had a child, I’d realize how much time I was currently wasting, and even before our daughter was born, I would have moments sitting on the couch when I would think, you know, I bet this is what Johan was talking about. And he was absolutely right, but the upside is that it has made me even more efficient and motivated to take advantage of every moment.

This certainly includes days out climbing, as it takes a little more planning to get out, whether it’s a family outing, or one of us going out with a friend, but the days we do get feel laser-focused, I ain’t got time to mess around!

With that in mind, I’m looking for every advantage to improve my climbing and I’ve become even more picky about what shoes I’m taking to the crag. Enter the redesigned Scarpa Mago. I picked these up in the winter, and put them through a number of days bouldering in the gym before heading out on real rock.

Most high-performance shoes these days are really soft, but the Mago goes in the opposite direction. Designed for climbs with small, precise footholds, they are quite stiff. And yet somehow, they don’t feel stiff. I don’t know how else to say this, because I’m not a fan of stiff shoes but I found myself really enjoying these. Perhaps its 3.5mm 1/3 length XS Grip 2 sole, which gives a better feel for the holds under my toes. I haven’t seen this mentioned elsewhere but most stiff shoes use XS Edge or something similarly stiff. The Mago takes a stiff midsole, with a plastic TPS insert, but pairs it with the softer XS Grip 2 rubber. Maybe this is the magic combo? Heinz is a genius, that’s for sure.

The rubber is very sticky and even when they were pretty new smearing felt OK, again not something I’d expect from a stiffer shoe. And of course, they edge like a boss, which finally is something you’d expect from them. They are very downturned, which drives an incredible amount of power into your toes. This did make them uncomfortable while standing on big ledges at rests since your foot fights curve of shoe. This wasn’t an issue while climbing and toeing into small edges, which they do with a precision that would make a top eye surgeon jealous.

Like most Scarpa shoes, I wish they came in a 45.5, which would be my perfect size. As is, they are performance tight, which means I’ll take them out when I need every advantage (which now might be all the time?) Even as tight as they are, they fit my (narrow) foot very well and were designed to fit a wide range of foot shapes, though I can’t comment on how they would be for anyone with wider feet. The microfiber and leather construction allows for stretch in some places and allows it to retain its shape in others. And can we talk about the color for a second? Straight neon goodness, all your friends will be jealous of how Euro you look. Plus Euros climb harder, so maybe that magic rubs off when you wear these shoes?

The last Scarpa shoe I used was the Furia S, which couldn’t be more different than the Mago. And I would say that the Mago is a much more versatile shoe which should appeal to a broader audience. I’m finding I throw these in my pack more and more these days, and if you’re in the market for a precision edging shoe, these are worth trying on.

For a full rundown on all the tech in this shoe, check out this link. 

Retail: $190
Sole: Vibram® XS Grip2 (3.5mm)
Midsole: TPS Insert
Upper: Suede & Microfiber
Ideal use: Sport climbing
Sizes: 35 – 45 (half sizes)

Disclaimer: Wait! Before you go handing over your credit card number, ask yourself, do you really need to buy more new stuff? If so, this product is worth a look. In the spirit of full disclosure, it was provided to SplitterChoss.com for the purpose of reviewing. Don’t worry, though, our integrity can’t be bought!

Greg Erickson climbing confidently in Penitente Canyon, CO.

One thing I’ve found to be true in both climbing and in life is that confidence is everything. In the Rock Warrior’s Way, Arno Ilgner talks about how a big difference between the novice and the expert is that the expert expects to find a way, knowing that the climb is possible, while the novice carries a heavy load of doubt.

Generally speaking, I am a confident person. In fact, when my wife and I first met, she mistook this confidence for cockiness and I had to continually remind her of the difference (I’m still not sure she believes me). When it comes to climbing, however, confidence has been an elusive thing for me, in large part because of a history of small injuries. My body hasn’t always responded well to going “a muerte,” and trying hard can feel a bit like swimming in shark-infested waters. Maybe it’ll be OK, but maybe the great white will come up and bite my leg off! (or in my case, mostly my fingers)

Because that confidence has been so elusive for much of my climbing career, it’s incredibly euphoric when I find myself in those moments. To soar up a wall of stone, knowing it’s possible, knowing I have what it takes, this is what keeps me coming back to climbing. There were moments years ago when I tried several times to walk away from it all. I got tired of figuring out why my body did what it did, why I couldn’t just climb hard like others. One particular incident at Smith Rock had me ready to sell all my gear after getting bouted on a supposedly easy but crimpy climb. Thankfully, I’ve come to accept that this is part of my journey, and it’s certainly made me appreciate my successes all the more.

To be confident, to feel strong, to me is to be free. Free to try whatever I can dream up, challenges I may have walked by before become a question rather than a dismissal. In those moments, when I’m confidently moving up stone that I know at one time had been challenging, when the sun is shining, when I’m climbing like I know I can, the joy is almost tangible.

I’ve got almost 30 years invested in climbing at this point, and I love it now probably more than ever, in no small part because of how hard I’ve had to work for it. And each little success continues to slowly but surely build my confidence, both in climbing and in life.

Another rad-looking piece of rock in Glenwood Canyon. Look at those roofs! No routes here yet…

I love the thrill of finding new areas, and of creating new lines. There’s already a lot of places to climb on the Western Slope, but there are even more cool places out there waiting to be opened up, and there’s something magical about seeing a crag come together. Approach trails get dialed in, warm-ups established, cool-looking features investigated. Developing crags is also a way for me to give back to the community that’s given me so much, to create more venues for pursuing our sport. The downside is that it’s a lot of work, and it takes away from time to just go climbing. Last year, I strove for a balance of trying to get out to a new area one day per week, and splitting the rest of my time between training in the gym and climbing outdoors. It’s hard to do it all, and even harder to do it all well.

As most folks know, bolting is not climbing, and while it’s very physical, it does not make you a better climber (unless you are John VanNostrand, somehow he does it all). I could certainly take my climbing to a higher level if I just focused on climbing, but something keeps me in the bolting game. Last October, I got to spend a day climbing on five new lines at a new, and for now, secret, area. I had spent numerous days getting these lines established, and it was so fun to see everything come together and to work out the moves that up to that point I’d only played with hanging on a rope. Each climb was worthwhile, and I saved what I thought would be the hardest line for last. And what a beauty it was, maybe one of my finest creations ever. A sustained line that builds to engaging, cruxy climbing past the last two bolts. Even in its fresh state, my partner for the day thought it was four stars and one of the better lines he’d climbed recently. And that satisfaction of seeing how well the line came together, knowing what it took to make it into a climb, that is what keeps me coming back.

The exploration, the voyage into the unknown that brings to light new vertical adventures, each different than the last. Opening up new zones, getting to hang out in new places. In fact, for me, one of the best things about the climbing on the Western Slope is that generally, the hangs are four stars. Whether it’s high on a mountainside, or down in an idyllic limestone valley, we get to climb in some pretty spectacular spots. And usually, the climbing is pretty good too.

Sure, I would climb harder if I took bolting out of my life. But I would definitely feel like I was missing something, something that brings deep joy and satisfaction, and that at this point I think will always be an important part of my identity as a climber.

As for that new area? It’s not ready yet, but trust me, you’ll be stoked when it is!

Photo @David Krimstock

On a day in late November, I took the draws down from my fall project. I’d had three great one-hang goes, but the route doesn’t get much sun and was pretty much out of season until the spring. It was fun to have a bigger project for the first time in a while, and I definitely learned a few things, which I’ve been reflecting on as the spring climbing season gets closer.

1) It’s amazing how subtle climbing can be. There are things you don’t pick up on when climbing routes that are within your comfort zone. When you strive for the ones that are close to your limit, however, you start to really understand how micro adjustments can have a huge impact, little beta like which direction to put draws, what hand to clip with, where and how to rest when it’s not obvious.

2) Refining beta is important. I think I started going for the send a little too soon. It took me a while to figure out the beta on this, and I think I only really got three tries in where I had an adequate understanding of what to do. Though you could argue it was even fewer.

3) Longer term projecting isn’t going to be my thing any time soon. I enjoyed trying this route, and the first couple of times I went out I kept the warm-up routine varied. Soon, however, I got sucked into the routine of doing the same four warmups and two burns on the proj each time I went out. There’s a lot of rock I haven’t climbed, and moving forward I think I’ll strive for more balance, and continue to focus mostly on routes I can do in four to six tries.

4) I got strong. The final route of my warm-up routine felt pretty casual on the last day, when at one point I would have been happy just to send it cleanly. Doing the hard moves on my project made everything else mellow by comparison.

5) It was so wonderful to have a hard project I wasn’t worried about getting hurt on. I had a good run this fall and it felt amazing to be trying so hard. That hasn’t happened often in my climbing career. The day I pulled the draws, I was, of course, a little bummed I didn’t send, but that was completely overshadowed by how much gratitude I felt, for the fall season, and for the whole year. I was fortunate to climb many different places, and I’m more confident in my abilities, and more in love with rock climbing, than I’ve been in a long time. Maybe ever.

And while we’ve had some big life changes this winter, I feel fortunate to be riding this high point into them, curious to see where it all leads. Now, time to get back to training for that bouldery crux!