Steam Ingenious

McCall's Steampunk Patterns

2017-11-02T22:53:00.000-05:00

McCall's has a couple of new steampunk accessories patterns.

M7705 Is a pattern by Formé Millinary with five different styles of perch hats. There's a tricorn, bicorn, sidecap, and two other styles. Some of these look better than others, in my opinion. The styling as pictured is really questionable, especially the trim on the bicorn. And I'm not sure how well-constructed any of these are. But they might be ok as a basis for some little hats.

M7706 has six different styles of spats. They vary from small lacy ones, medium length ones and a couple of very tall styles. My favorite one is the blue View C which would look a lot better if the details had been done in a contrasting color and not the exact same color. The other long ones are just knit and look like they wouldn't stay up very well. The others could be cute depending on fabric and decoration.

Cosplay by McCall's has a new Lolita pattern with a really cute bustier, pannier supports, and a skirt. The panniers would work for any 18th century pannier styled costume, so they might be useful beyond just this look.

New Fall Sewing Patterns Megapost!

2017-09-02T14:50:00.004-05:00

Simplicity

Simplicity has released a 1950's vintage pattern for a slip/petticoat. The only thing to judge on is the drawings on the front, but they look nice and full. But it doesn't seem to include any tulle or net to make these super stiff. But you could add some, of course. So it might be useful for various retro/rockabilly looks.

Along a similar line, Simplicity 8458 is a pattern for vintage skirts. I like the button detail and contrast trim on the one skirt. It has a vaguely dieselpunk-ish feel to it.

This cape pattern is part of Simplicity's "pattern hacking" line, which I guess means it has a lot of different details you can add? But I like the cape with the tabs a lot, and if you do any steampunk events in winter, I HIGHLY recommend a warm cape. My wool cape was wonderful at Steampunk November last year and I was warm for the first time at that event.

Maybe capes are going to be "in" because New Look also has a cape pattern, in 4 lengths from super short capelet to mid-calf. There are also several styles of collars, but they don't do a huge amount for me.

This costume pattern for women has a Firefly flair (and Rogue One?). It also could be a good base for a steampunk outfit with a Western or post-apocalyptic flair. The vest with side buckles and the holster are especially neat.

McCall's

This 18th century dress pattern looks like something that would work for both Outlander and Hamilton costumes. It's not bad for a Big 3 pattern, it looks fairly accurate, despite the lack of proper corset underpinning.

This Yaya Han pattern is for an assortment of fascinators, including mini-top hat, mini-tricorn, and mini-witches hat. They look ok, but I feel like we've seen similar patterns before. The witches hat looks a little disappointing. But it might be worth picking up

This coat with a long and short variation has the feel of a Once Upon a Time costume, but my knowledge of that show is limited to people telling me various sewing patterns are based on it. Regardless of its inpiration, both looks are quite steampunk. I like the way the back falls. I think if you adjusted the collar a bit it would look less cartoony.

Butterick

This is one of Butterick's Making History patterns. It looks like an early Victorian pattern, but I find it pretty boring. It doesn't look well-fit or very period accurate either.

This single-breasted jacket and pants pattern is pretty much "boring historical costume, men's edition." I mean, it's fine? But, yeah.

Here is the REST of that costume, as a second pattern. That kinda annoys me, but whatever. This is much more interesting to me, with a nice vest/waistcoat and overcoat. And it makes the whole outfit look better/more like Newt Scamander, which I think may be what they're going for.

Cosplay by McCall's

This Cosplay pattern is apparently an original design. I'm sharing it for the corset, which has an interesting shape, though it's not very curvy. I'm not sure the arm and leg braces would actually stay in place, but if you need similar pieces, then this could be a base pattern, I guess.

This belly dance costume has something of a steampunk flair. It includes the pattern for the bra with chain detail, a pretty uninspiring bolero, a belt with gather and beading, and a long ruffled skirt/wrap thing. If you're looking for ideas or pieces for a belly dancer with a 19th century feel, this is pretty decent. The long skirt could also be used with pretty much any steampunk costume.

The bra is made from scratch and includes an underwire, but the pattern says it's made to fit a b-cup and there's no other option. Including in the plus-size of the pattern, which, when was the last time you saw a size 22 woman with a B-cup bust? So the bra is essentially useless unless you are a B-cup, which is very disappointing.

Finally there's this strange pattern called "Hornery" which includes two styles of horned headdresses. The horns are sewn from fabric or faux leather, and the pattern is pretty detailed on construction. I mean, so, if you need horns, this could be useful. I have to kinda admire the boldness of this. It could come in handy if you need ideas for a fantasy masquerade costume.

Yuri on Ice Eros Corset Cosplay

2017-08-25T16:57:00.000-05:00

So I know I've been quiet on this blog. I've been doing a lot less sewing and steampunk related stuff. For personal reasons I'm not able to get out to events and cons the way I used to. I won't be attending a single steampunk event or vending at all this year.

But I have been rather obsessed with a fandom: Yuri on Ice. If you're not familiar with the show, it's an anime about men's figure skating. I adore it. And naturally, falling in love with a show made me think about how I could create something to celebrate it. Once I learned that the creators of the show would be at Animefest in Dallas, I knew I had to attend, and wanted to dress for the occasion. So I hope y'all don't mind that this really isn't steampunk, but it is corsetry and cosplay. And hey, this is my blog.

The show has a lot of figure skating costumes naturally, but the most distinctive is undeniably the Eros costume. It's supposedly inspired by "bondage and lingerie." And as I looked at it, I started thinking about how I could turn it into a corset. I could recreate the mesh pieces in corset mesh, and find a way to shift the lines to make a more feminine shape.

So I made a sketch of how I would adapt the costume. I'm REALLY bad at drawing y'all, so you have to excuse my terrible excuse for a human form. The basic idea was to create the corset from black spot broche and corset mesh, and somehow attach the sleeves and yoke to the top of the corset. The rest would just be an asymmetric skirt and leggings.

I later decided that to get the shape of the panels and mesh bits right, the corset needed hip gores, which I'm kinda terrible at. So I started with a corset pattern I knew fit me well and had the right fit in the bust, and generally the right shape. I made up a dirty mockup in cotton sheeting and then remarked all the seam lines to create something close to what I wanted.

My first real mock-up was extremely rough. The patterning was weird because the whole corset is asymmetrical and I was trying to have the hip gores totally different at first. I decided after this that the gores would have to be more traditional and I wouldn't extend the mesh all the way to the bottom of the corset.

I made a second mock-up very quickly but although the patterning was better, the mock-up was kinda a disaster. So I made some changes and then decided to bite the bullet and start work on the final corset, because I was running out of time for the con.

For the rest of the pieces of the costume I bought some 4-way stretch lycra for the sleeve, and thin lycra for the skirt. I wanted it to have a lot of movement like a dance skirt. For the mesh sleeve, I used some mesh I had on hand. It was white, but in the interests of not spending money I dyed it black with iDye Poly, which worked GREAT. The only problem was I had less than a yard on hand, so I couldn't mess up with it.

For the crystal accents, I originally thought about casting them from resin. If I were going to do a really serious cosplay of this outfit that's probably what I'd do. But because all the shapes are different that would involve making a bunch of different molds and...wow, that's complicated. Plus expensive because while I have clear resin I don't have mold making materials. So then I considered using rhinestone crystals to create the shapes. And then realized just how many thousands of rhinestones that would take, not to mention the time involved applying them.

So finally I found a site that sells extra large rhinestone gems. I decided that this would be the easiest way to get an approximation of the gems on the costume. Plus they would be sparkly. In hindsight I should have bought more of these, but they were a little pricey. I bought two sizes of Navette shaped stones and one pair of diamond shaped ones. I should have gotten more of the extra extra large navettes. When it finally came to applying these to the costume, I also used some rhinestones I had lying around to fill out the space. As well as some clear beads I'd bought that I thought might work for this project. I knew I wasn't trying to recreate the costume exactly, but rather making a piece "inspired by" it, so I tried to give a similar impression with my stones.

As for the top, I ended up adapting a pattern I had already. It's a knit crop top from this pattern, which worked fairly well as a base. I changed the front seam line and extended the sleeves down into fingerless gloves, and changed the collar. One problem I had was working with the mesh. I thought serging all the seams would make it secure enough, but the mesh tore easily and little holes opened up alone the seams as I wore it. I thought of having the mesh cover my torso completely, but it made the corset mesh much more opaque. Which meant you couldn't see my lily-white skin as clearly and the decorative lines didn't stand out at all. So the mesh and spandex just barely covers my breasts.

I made the skirt very hastily, and I'm not all that happy with it, since it falls weird. But I was literally doing it the day before I left for Dallas, so there was a limit to how much I could mess with it.

As for my hair, I refuse to wear wigs. I have a big head so they're mostly uncomfortable and hot. So I dyed my hair dark brown (it was half bleached from having it purple) and slicked it back with large amounts of industrial hair product. I had considered going so far as to have my hair cut into more of a boy cut, but didn't have time. And I was doing a female version/inspired by sort of costume anyway.

So that's that. I wore a costume that is half mesh out in public, including on public transportation(!). The picture to the right is at the end of the day, in 100 degree heat and I'm melting.

The con itself was alright, I was very happy to get to gush with other Yuri on Ice fans and see the creators talk. But the organization was poor, and I wasn't able to get autographs despite waiting for hours on two days. I spent most of my time in lines.

The costume isn't perfect, in my opinion, especially the way the top and corset interact. But for a rush job, and a really challenging corset to pattern and execute, it came out pretty good. I hope I have a chance to wear it again to another appropriate event.

New Steampunk Cosplay Patterns

2017-06-11T23:55:00.003-05:00

Cosplay by McCall's has several new patterns that are a little interesting.

Foot Fetish: Gilded is a collection of "bootcovers" or spat-type accessories. There are three versions: the cover style with straps and pleated trim, a pair with ruched fabric front and corset lacing in back, and some filigree low-top covers that go around the ankle. They're all written to be made in synthetic leather with fabric trim and jewelry findings.

The instructions are pretty good at showing how to attach the pieces together, install eyelets and buckles, use blanket stitch to decorate and secure layers.

The main question about this pattern is whether it's really necessary. The only one of the three designs I really like is the low-top cut-out one. I would probably leave the ruffle off it, though. All of these are one-size-fits-all because they only cover the front of the boot/shoe and just have straps or lacing in the back.

And since I can't imagine many people wanting to exactly recreate these styles, if you're going to be adapting these to suit your outfit, it would be pretty easy to make your own basic front shape and decorate it as you wish. So I can't see many people really would feel the need to buy this pattern. Am I wrong? Is this pattern more useful than it seems?

Hand-Eye Coordination is a pattern for four different glove styles and three different eye patches and finger armor claws. The "leather" portions are faux leather fused to cloth with fusible web.

The instructions in this pattern are actually pretty good at showing how to attach the various pieces using rivets, blanket stitch edging, and jewelry findings. There is a paragraph encouraging using found objects to embellish the eyepatch in an individual style.

I do like some of the gloves, like the fabric gloves with laced bracer covering the wrists. The claws aren't my style and I wonder how well they would hold up since they are just held together with interfacing.

But if you prefer you could use these patterns with actual leather, stitching or riveting it together mostly in the same way.

So whether this pattern appeals to you is mostly a matter of style, I think. It also works as a plain glove pattern, so that could have uses in other types of costuming.

Becoming Emelie is a lolita style pattern for a bonnet, circular purse, and cape with tufted shoulders. I love the bonnet, and I don't know that there's another commercial pattern for this style of hat. The pattern uses thick sew-in interfacing and the wire from a wire hanger to stiffen the hat. That would probably work pretty well. I especially love the gathered lining.

The purse zips closed and has a chain strap. It uses batting for padding. I'm not sure how sturdy the finished bag would be, but it is cute.

The cape is a really nice shape, short in the front and longer and full in the back. It is fully lined and has lace edging. The shoulders are tufted and beaded. Personally I'm not wild about the shoulders, but you could leave that off the cape easily.

Finally the pattern includes a pattern and instructions for making fabric roses to decorate the bonnet and purse. I love these kind of details and they look fun to make with scraps.

So I think this is another excellent lolita pattern from this brand, and one you probably definitely want if you make lolita outfits. The cape would be great for steampunk, and with some different embellishments the bonnet and bag could as well.

Red Reign is a pattern by Ichigo Black that includes a corset, bolero, hoop and skirt. This is one I didn't get a review copy of, so I can't say how the instructions are. Which is too bad given it's a corset. I did like the previous patterns by Ichigo Black, though.

I like the style, especially the jacket, skirt and hoops. The corset is almost a bustier since it's so short and straight. I would probably just use a different corset pattern that's curvier and extends further onto the hips. (I like the corsets in this same pattern line as one option.)

Finally there is Eventide, which includes two different jackets with puffed shawl collars.

Without checking this strikes me as a design that looks like it's from Once Upon a Time. Except for the collar, the cover version is just a nice feminine version of a frock coat and would work well for any pirate-themed outfit. It could also work for a variety of different cosplays.

The shorter version is a little plainer, more of a bodice with the only really noticeable elements being the collar and the giant sleeves. In both versions, I really hate the puffed collar. I would automatically replace it with something more normal looking.

So I think the first version of this coat has a lot of possibilities for cosplay, steampunk, pirate, or goth wear. (Minus the collar. Sorry, I hate it.)

(In the interest of full disclosure I was provided review copies of these patterns at no cost.)

Summer Steampunk Patterns from Simplicity and Cosplay by McCall's

2017-04-22T15:07:00.000-05:00

Simplicity has two new steampunk patterns in their new collection.

Simplicity 8408 is a pattern for a man's shirt and two vests. The shirt has two collar options: a band collar or wing style collar. Other than that, it's a fairly plain shirt.

There are two styles of vests, as pictured on the front. There's the long single-breasted one and the shorter double breasted vest.

Honestly I love everything about this pattern. There really aren't enough men's steampunk patterns, although vest patterns are exactly rare. But I like both vest looks and the shirt is a great addition to make this more than just another vest pattern. The details on the vests with multiple pockets and nice collars all look nice.

Simplicity 8409 includes a bolero jacket and skirt, both with two variations.

I'll admit on first looking at this, I wasn't very impressed. It's a confusing look, especially the blue and red version. But on studying the pattern a little closer, it's not that complicated. The bolero jacket is nice, with some interesting details. It's different from other steampunk boleros in other patterns at least. (But I'd suggest wearing a shirt or corset or something under it. I don't think the bare skin look really works.)

And the long fringe on the one bolero style? Well, it probably could work ok with the right outfit. It'd be good for belly dancing. But mostly I'm not in love with it.

The skirt comes in two lengths. I naturally like the longer skirt much better, but that's really personal preference. Although I'm not sure a really short skirt really screams "steampunk" but I'll try not to judge. The corset-style belt is built into the skirt. Obviously it's not actually a corset, just decorative, but I like it. The skirt itself is made up of handkerchief style pieces, which is a neat look that would look very different in different fabrics. The skirt would really be good for a casual steampunk look.

So although I wasn't super excited about this pattern on first glance, I'd say it's really kinda neat. I don't like the way it's styled in the photos that well, with the bare midriff and clashing colors. But I think it could look cool and be a good steampunk wardrobe addition.

I'll include a mention of Simplicity 8411 which is a version of the red dress from Outlander, obviously. It's 18th century rather than 19th, but I figure some of y'all may be interested. It's a pattern from American Duchess, which explains why it looks pretty nice. The design isn't historically accurate, and I hated that bust in the show, but this is not a bad looking pattern.

In addition to the boned bodice (the pattern calls for cable ties!) and skirt, the pattern includes panniers, which could be very useful. Maybe I just like panniers.

There are also a couple new Cosplay by McCall's patterns. The first is Hat Madder which includes this skeleton mad hatter hat, bow tie, collar, and cuffs, and this flower/unicorn horm headpiece.

This pattern is freaking weird. Just need to get that out there. The mad hatter hat doesn't look very good in my opinion, mostly because the brim appears to have nothing to stiffen it, so it's just floppy all over the place. It doesn't give the impression of a top hat so much as a trash can on top of a tortilla. Like, I think this design could be neat, but it looks like someone tried it out and made a prototype and just said "meh, close enough."

The rest of the pattern is ok, and I like the weirdness of the unicorn horn thing, but I'm not sure any of it is really vital enough to require a $14 pattern.

Secondly there is Abigail by Anachronism in Action. When I first looked at this pattern I said, well, it looks nice, but I have no idea what it's supposed to be.

The pattern is for a lined and boned vest/bodice, skirt, and petticoat. From looking at the pattern it seems to be well-constructed. But I remained confused as to exactly what period this outfit was supposed to represent, and neither the pattern envelope or the website really gave me much of a clue.

I had to go to Anachronism in Action's FB page to actually figure it out. First she calls this a Renaissance-inspired outfit. And then she also has an album of the outfit made up in a few different looks. The album calls this a 16th century style.

So, great, mystery solved. I can't really comment on the historical accuracy of this, since I don't know a great deal about 16th century costume. But seeing some of the different renaissance festival stylings of this outfit makes me like it quite a bit more. It could be a good option if you want a Renaissance outfit that doesn't look like everyone else's.

And I would say that if you're the kind of person who blends Renaissance and steampunk, this could be a good set to have in your closet. I can picture either the skirt or the vest working with a steampunk outfit.

New Cosplay by McCalls patterns for steampunks

2017-04-05T00:14:00.000-05:00

So I have been out of touch on this blog and in general. I haven't even sewed anything in over two months. While I'm trying to figure out what to do with this blog as I try to reorder my life, I'm still a pattern addict. And I got the two Cosplay by McCall's patterns in the mail a couple days ago. Both of them are aimed pretty clearly at a steampunk market.

First let's talk about Thirst. This is a gothic/Romantic styled men's pattern. The pattern includes the shirt and two different styles of vest. The shirt is nice, but the billowing sleeves with ruffles at the wrist aren't very Victorian. It's really more Regency, but since I'm not really up on early 19th century men's styles, I'm not sure if it's accurate at all. It's would work fine as goth fashion, and no one would kick you out of a steampunk con, but I thought I should mention it's not Victorian-accurate. I do really like the collar style, though, and I might, if I ever get up the courage to try a men's shirt again, use the collar at least.

Now the vests. The vest on the cover is...ok? Maybe? It looks really short and I don't really like the seam at the waist that makes it look strangely 18th century, while not being right for that either. It could evoke some period vests that were pretty short, because men's trousers came up above the waist at the time. But since very few modern men are willing to wear period-accurate trousers, it just shows the shirt, as you can see in the photo.

And then there's the other vest style. Which is just the same vest, but without the bottom half. This is so incredibly bizarre and unattractive I posted the picture up to my friends to see if anyone had any explanation for it. Maybe it was referencing some TV show I hadn't seen? Maybe an anime? Who freaking knows. Everyone else was as put off by it as I was.

I mean, I guess it's an equal opportunity crop top? Even on this model it doesn't really look good and he has to have the ideal figure. On most men it would just be downright terrible. Highlight the beer belly, gents! One of the nice things about vests is that they are flattering on a range of male body types. But, yeah, not this one.

Seriously, I feel like I need a gay man over here to explain fully everything wrong with this vest. I can't do it justice.

Anyway, the actual pattern envelope and instructions don't give any clues about the intentions of the designer. I really...can't understand where they're coming from with this one.

Luckily I like the other new pattern better. Wayfaress is a pattern for three styles of bloomer-styled pants and an overskirt.

Let's start with the skirt. It's strange. Not a full skirt, but about 3/4 of a skirt, with no means of attaching it except to use a purchased belt. So it's kinda like a cape with belt loops. While I think using a belt to hold the overskirt on is a neat idea, I wish there was an alternate method of attachment. Ties or buttons or something. Because not every outfit lends itself to a belt. And it requires a fairly skinny belt, based on the size of the loops. I'm not sure a standard renaissance faire leather belt would work. Also you need a belt without a bunch of stuff on it, like my steampunk belt. I couldn't use my belt because it's both too wide and has too many things attached to it that aren't easily removable.

Having said that, the shape of the skirt is pretty nice, and it has a really lovely trim design sewn onto it. The instructions are pretty good about giving tips for topstitching and attaching the trim. Frankly if I wanted to achieve this look I'd probably go looking in my closet or a thrift store for a similarly shaped skirt and attach the trim and hike up the front of the skirt.

Moving on to the pants. There are three styles, all basically the shape shape with different embellishments. The plainest is the ones pictured on the envelope front. These just feature some piping and topstitching but are otherwise plain. They don't really do anything for me, but I guess they are the most masculine.

I do really like the styling of the other two views. View B has decorative corset-style lacing on the side panels, buttons and chains on the front and some ruffles at the leg openings. The lacing is run through cord loops stitched into the seams, which is a nice look, but which wouldn't show at all if worn with an overskirt.

View C is my favorite and has stitched on contrast stripes and large ruffles at the legs. The stripes as pictured are raw-edged and intentionally frayed, which is actually a pretty steampunk detail. Though the pattern notes you could use ribbon or a non-fraying fabric for these if you don't like the frayed look.

My one concern with all of these pants is that they are fairly close-fitting, moreso than bloomers really are. They look good on the models, but I'm a little concerned that they might not work great for those of us who have larger hips and rears. Especially in a woven fabric, I'd be afraid of having a seam blow out when sitting or crouching. Now I haven't actually tried the pattern, but they do seem pretty slim in the hips/stomach in the photos. Just something to keep in mind. Also the fact that the closure is a zipper means there's not a lot of room for error in fit as opposed to normal bloomers that have a drawstring or elastic waist. These are definitely "meant to be seen" and not underwear, but the comes with some trade-offs in comfort.

So what's my opinion overall of this pattern? If you fall in love with one or more of the pants style, then it's worth having. The overskirt is more of a pattern bonus than really enough to cause someone to buy the pattern on it's own. And I'm not sure any part of the pattern is really versatile for more than one look.

So that's it for this wave of Cosplay by McCall's. If anyone figures out what the hell is going on with those vests, let me know, ok?

Simplicity Spring Patterns

2017-02-17T15:46:00.000-06:00

Simplicity has released their new Spring pattern catelog. And as usual there's enough for me to discuss.

First off there's this pattern for 4 different styles of hats, all of which could work for steampunk. There's a very standard top hat, a Mad Hatter style top hat, a tricorn and a large brimmed hat. Reading the pattern info, it seems the pattern calls for wire and standard fusible interfacing. So I assume it's the wire giving these hats shape since there no buckram holding them stiff. Looking at the photos closely, you can see they they may look a bit soft in places. The top of the top hat looks a bit saggy, for example. So this may be a good cheap source of a hat pattern, but you may not be completely satisfied with the finished result if you're comparing it to a store bought hat.

Then there's this slightly odd pattern for a lace skirt and blouse in two styles. It's kind of hippie-goth in style, but I'm including it because the blouse as pictured here would work pretty well for steampunk.

Next is this more cosplay-oriented pattern for a "Fantasy Ranger." While it definitely comes off more fantasy and video game character-esque than steampunk in the picture, some of the pieces could be used for steampunk fairly effectively. There's a (fairly straight) corset, and a pretty nice neck corset. Plus there's instructions to make the arm/should armor piece. So I do like it and think some of y'all might be interested.

Finally I just have to point out a weird thing where Simplicity has apparently taken the same pattern and listed it twice under different numbers. Patterns 8364 and 8365 appear to include the exact same pieces of lace accessories and a fascinator, but 8364 is white for bridal and 8365 is styled retro. I'm not very impressed with the patterns in either case, but it made me giggle to notice they were totally the same.

Cosplay by McCall's: Prelude and Hitched

2017-01-04T12:34:00.003-06:00

I have some actual content coming soon, but I had to let you guys know about a couple of new patterns from Cosplay by McCall.

Prelude is a pattern with three styles of bloomers: a short and long version of voluminous bloomers and a lovely pleated style. All three have a real antique feel to them (although I can't say they're accurate, as they seem to all be closed-crotch.) But these really look different to some other patterns that tend towards skimpier and less blousy, more modern looks.

I really love my bloomers and the days I wear those for steampunk, because it is a more dressed-down casual, comfortable look. So this pattern looks like a great one to use. And this is the kind of pattern that I don't think exists, so I'm really happy to see it.

Hitched is the second new pattern, and it's just a hi-low skirt in three lengths. There's a short version which seems a little pointless for steampunk, but also a medium (two back tiers) and long (three back tiers) version. The medium and long versions have D-rings attached to the front for gathering the front up with ribbon.

I have to say that I do really like this skirt. If I'm looking to criticize I would say there could be a bit more volume in it, and that having only the skirt makes the pattern fairly expensive.

But the D-rings are a really good idea I wish I'd had first.

Cosplay By McCall's Patterns: Steampunk, Lolita, Accessories

2016-11-28T03:29:00.000-06:00

Five new patterns have come out in the Cosplay by McCall line since I posted about it. I have my hands on all of them now so I can give them a rundown.

Bow and Brine is a pattern for a pirate blouse. The blouse is ok, but it's really more fashion than costume. Unlike a period garment, it buttons down the front and is fitted with bust darts. It has three styles of sleeve and a variety of rather strange removable straps/neck things. The pictured hat and belt aren't included in the pattern. Overall, I don't see the point of this one.

Obi: Gado is a lovely full-length traditional kimono, an undershirt, and a short kimono with detached sleeves. It also includes two styles of obi belt. The obi are closed with hook and eyes and permanently styled.

Fatale is a set of accessories including the collar and foam crown from the front picture, a piece of fabric shoulder armor, and thigh-high leggings. These pieces are fairly disappointing, and don't really feel like cosplay quality items The crown is craft foam glued together. The shoulder "armor" is a piece of thin faux leather gathered up and strapped on. As far as their usefulness, they feel like something more for bedroom play or maybe burlesque than cosplay.

Stash is a pattern for a pair of canvas belts and pouches in a military style. The pouches close with snaps and there is an option to attach them to a purchased belt. The hip bag is attached to a belt with a bunch of D-rings attached to it. I like the way the belts are closed with D-rings and metal clips instead of velcro or less secure methods.

These pouches aren't exactly steampunk, but they could definitely be used as part of a steampunk costume. Especially if it was made in different fabrics or trimmed differently.

Rove is a bolero jacket pattern with several variations in styling. I do really like this jacket, and it's nice for steampunk wear and wearing with corsets. View F has some nice military tab detailing. The only complaint about this pattern is that it's only a jacket and that may be a bit slim for an up-priced pattern, when there are other patterns out there with multiple skirts, a corset, and a bolero all included.

Manikin is a complete lolita pattern. It includes a blouse, a jumper skirt with shirred back, an apron with a corset-laced back, and a bow. There area couple of other mainstream lolita-esque patterns out there, but this is the first time I've looked at a pattern and said "that's REAL lolita." Now, I'm not an expert, but I've tried to educate myself about lolita fashion over the years and it's a style I really like, if not one I really wear.

But I'm super impressed with this pattern, and think you could make your own clothing that would be indistinguishable from purchased clothing from the well-known brands. The pattern includes information and guidance about types of lace to use and how to choose and make trim for all the ruffles and layers. So this is a pattern that's going to be invaluable to lolita fans, IMO.

Papillon is a really nice women's jacket with either tails or a pleated flounce at the back. They are essentially the same jacket with different detailing, but it does give you two fairly different looks, from a menswear look to a fairly accurate Victorian women's bodice style. The tails version is also a perfect pattern for the ever-popular character Sebastian from Black Butler (Kuroshitsuji). The jackets are fully lined and the instructions give pretty good tips about fitting and using interfacing and choosing lining fabric. So this is a pattern that I think will be good for a steampunk sewers library and I have seen demand for a good tailcoat pattern for women.

If anyone has more detailed questions about these patterns, please let me know, as I do have copies of them on hand and can check things if you're curious about something.

A few new patterns of interest

2016-11-23T01:17:00.001-06:00

So I was just getting prepped for Black Friday, as you do, and noted that Joann's sale starts tomorrow and they have Simplicity patterns on sale 5 for $5. I brought in a large haul of Simplicity patterns in the last sale but I had to go look for new ones...

And there are some of note.

This is another design by Lori Ann Designs, and I pretty much love it. There's a nice gothic lolita version and more pirate lolita (Is that a thing? It should be a thing.) version. Honestly, I have nothing to nitpick on these.

The jacket on either version could work great for steampunk, but honestly you could wear either of these to a steampunk event as-is and no one would kick you out. (I mean, ok, they wouldn't anyway, but you know what I mean.) It's hard to figure out exactly what all the pieces of these are from the drawings, but it looks like there are two skirts and a bustle you could mix and match with.

I was recently digging through my pattern stash to look at the cape options I had and this is a nice one for a couple of lengths of short capes. I was snuggled into my full-length wool cloak at my last event and said I wish cloaks would come back into acceptable fashion because it's basically a wearable blanket. Maybe all the cape patterns I've seen recently is a sign that wearable blankets are back.

This one is from Butterick, and it's very obvious they are going for a Phryne Fisher look with this jacket and jodhpur set. So that's 1920's, a little modern for traditional steampunk, but with the right accessories or a more Victorian bodice, it could work. I like that these jodhpurs have contrast patches on the inside of the thighs and aren't as extreme in the hip pouf as some others.

(And by the way if you haven't watched the Australian series Miss Fisher's Mysteries, you MUST.)

I'll also note that Simplicity has released a slew of vintage patterns of styles from the 1930s-1970s, if any of those decades are your thing.

There are also several new patterns in the Cosplay by McCall's line, including a couple I really like, but that's going to be it's own post, probably next week after the holiday.

Happy Thanksgiving to my fellow Americans!

Friday Finds: Hips and Curves Steampunk Wear

2016-11-18T15:39:00.000-06:00

When I was out at Steampunk November one of my friends spotted a woman wearing a very nice lace-trimmed peasant blouse and said "I need a shirt like that!" She asked where the woman got it, and she said "Oh, Hips and Curves!" And then there was a conversation about how great their underwear was.

Luckily, I'm an affiliate for Hips and Curves, which means if you buy from them after following the links from my blog, I get a commission. So I went to find this shirt, and was really surprised how much great steampunk clothing the site has. It's been a while since I really looked at it. Now some of their stuff is going to be costume quality, and I don't necessarily vouch for their corsets (I believe they are of the same quality as Corset Story, and you can read my opinion of those here.)

But they also have some pretty decent pieces to add to your steampunk wardrobe.

This is the item that started this. Hips and Curves calls it a dress, but I'd wear it as a top, personally. Maybe with leggings. But it looks great under a corset. And the fabric is very flowy and gauzy, which is nice for warm weather. Sure, maybe this is more Ren Faire or fantasy than Victorian, but we all know the fashion of steampunk is broadly inclusive.

I have a pair of striped bloomers I made that I love, and have taken to wear frequently when I want to be comfortable and cool but still dress steampunk. These white bloomers are similar and I would recommend them to women who want to forgo long skirts and get a little more comfy in their steampunk.

Black and white stripes are classic steampunk, and you can't go wrong with a tiered ruffled petticoat skirt either. They also have a similar skirt in black.

The purple velvet Alice Revolver jacket is really lovely, with a corseted back and frilly tails at the back. They also have a similar look in black brocade with the Bowie Brocade Jacket.

This Cotton Tiered Petticoat is nice for it's simplicity. You could wear it for everyday wear, alone with steampunk clothing, or as a base under other costume pieces.

That's really only a taste. There are a lot of petticoats, accessories, and potentially cool pieces in the costume section. It would be a good place to get some base pieces for a steampunk look, particularly if you have trouble finding things in plus size, or live somewhere that you don't have access to a festival to buy from vendors.

Steampunk November Festival 2016

2016-11-17T08:30:00.000-06:00

Of course they have a TARDIS.

Regular readers of this blog know I really love Steampunk November. So much that it's the only steampunk event I've attended this year. (It's been a rough few years personally.)

If you're not familiar with the event, let me briefly explain it. It's basically a Renaissance Faire, but for steampunk. It's held on some rural property just south of Dallas in Mansfield, TX. It's currently a three day festival of live music, dance and variety performances, and vending.

This was my third time attending and vending at this festival in four years. (One year I was ill.) I've been able to watch the event grow from a large party to a full-fledged festival, and I've gotten to know the organizers and a lot of people involved with it. Pretty much every time I talk to a Texas steampunk I ask, "Are you going to Steampunk November? You should go to Steampunk November."

The new Gypsy Stage. How gorgeous is that?

This year was definitely the biggest yet, with an entire new area of vendors and a 4th stage. There were more acts, especially musical acts, and more variety. There were also a lot of small improvements to the site and I was seriously impressed at the amount of work that had been put into it.

For me, the experience of going to Steampunk November as a vendor is like going to a family reunion. I know a lot of the people and a lot of them know me. But I talked to quite a few new vendors over the weekend and they all expressed wonder at how welcoming and friendly everyone was. It's normal to see someone walking around looking dazed and saying "this place is incredible!"

Unlike some other steampunk events, this isn't a convention. The focus is on performers and vendors rather than educational panels. The line-up for performers is long and consisted of musical acts, belly dancers, sideshow acts, and other comedy/variety acts. Since I spent most of my time in my booth, I only really got to see the acts performing on the two stages in the original central area. And even then I heard the acts more than saw them.

The Phantom Sensation performing

Because I didn't get to really see the non-musical acts I'll just focus on the bands. Besides, part of my main reason to go to cons and events is to see live music.

My favorite bands of the weekend were Plunk Murray, The Phantom Sensation, The Long Losts, and Frenchy and the Punk. Plunk Murray is a local Dallas Celtic Punk/Rock band and I totally enjoyed their set on Sunday morning. The Phantom Sensation is a Fort Worth band who call themselves a punk rock, southern gothic, blackgrass band. They played several times over the weekend and I caught bits and pieces and was really impressed with them. The Long Losts are a goth punk duo from New York and they were seriously awesome. I mean, my tastes incline in that direction, but I loved them. They are also both very nice people. And finally there's Frenchy and the Punk. They were the Saturday night headliners and only were able to play one set but they were awesome, as always. This is the third time I've seen them and they are always a great time.

Frenchy and the Punk (at soundcheck)

The selection of vendors was fantastic. There were a ton this year, and in general the quality of the merchandise was high. The focus was definitely on handmade items, not the kind of factory-produced stuff you see at most comic cons. The wares covered everything from steampunk costumes and jewelry to fine art, glasswares, books, and more.

There may have been a few too many vendors there for the size of the crowd, from a money-making point of view. Certainly there is room for the festival to grow in attendance and it never felt crowded, but it wasn't ever empty either. From talking to other vendors how well they did ranged wildly from breaking even to raking it in. But pretty much everyone I talked to said how much they enjoyed the event and that it was worth it to show up just for the experience. (This is the category I fall in really. I never make huge money at this show, but I always make some and I really enjoy it. This year I didn't have as much stock as I would have liked due to being laid up recently. But I made more than I expected.)

My husband and I in front of
the Steam Ingenious booth.

The only real complaint I heard was regarding food options. The only on-site food was an Italian-themed food truck. They had a nice variety of food available from salads, sandwiches, pasta, and fried snacks. But the line was long and the wait for food was even longer. I know some people got frustrated. Everything I ate was good, though, and the organizers have said they are planning on having more food vendors next year.

The other attractions of the festival are two wine-tastings, an afternoon tea, a beer-tasting, and tea-dueling. I have never been able to go to any of these, so I really can't report on them. But everyone RAVES about the wine tasting (and I don't think it's just because they come out drunk.) And I know people had fun at the tea dueling. The tastings and tea cost extra and tickets for them must be bought in advance.

The one downside of Steampunk November is that the location isn't very convenient or easy to get to. That's hardly unique for Renaissance events, but I think it's probably the reason the festival hasn't gotten more popular. It's a significant drive from Dallas, but ok for a day trip. There is camping available, but in November it's a little cool for a lot of people (i.e. me.).

But I would really encourage people to make the effort and plan to attend, whether that means camping out for the whole weekend, driving from Dallas, or getting a hotel room nearby. It's absolutely worth it for a relaxed, enchanting, fun atmosphere with great people.

ETA: I forgot to say hi to those readers of this blog who said hi at the event! Thanks so much for stopping to talk and I was so glad you turned up!

Brief Pattern Reviews: McCall's and Butterick

2016-09-15T15:54:00.001-05:00

McCall's, Butterick and Vogue had a Labor Day pattern sale and I took the opportunity to order several patterns for $1.99. They've arrived and I thought I'd right up a bit about them.

We'll start with the Butterick ones. The two I ordered are both historical patterns.

B6400 "Misses Bones, Back-Pleat Jackets" is a Making History pattern for a Victorian Bodice with variations. It's basically the same bodice with different rear bottom details and different trim. View A and View B are actually exactly he same except for the braid/lace trim and the giant bow on the back. View C is my favorite with the military look of the ribbon trim. So this may not be the most exciting pattern ever, but it's a good staple to have for Victorian costuming.

Next is B6397, a Making History pattern for 4 different historical hat styles. You know, this pattern makes me wish the Making History patterns came with ANY historical notes about the patterns, just so I could be sure exactly what time periods they are shooting for. But anyway, we have a 1940's style pillbox, an early 20th cen broad brimmed hat, a bustle-era Victorian hat and a beret/tam thing that I think is vaguely Regency, but is pictured with Victorian clothes and yeah I don't really know. So I'm just going to totally ignore that style because it's basically a round bag with a brim and yeah.

The three other hats are constructed with buckram covered in fabric and the instructions seem pretty good. Not as thorough and good as, say, Lynn McMaster's hat patterns, but if you are vaguely familiar with hat construction or can watch some YouTube videos you should be fine.

The entire reason I bought this pattern is for the Victorian hat, which is a lovely historical style you rarely see people wear these days. It's a style meant to be worn with an updo and features a small crown and lots of decoration at the back. The instructions for this one are pretty detailed, including how to gather the tulle/veiling and attach it, which I find super helpful as I'm not very good at hat embellishment.

Next we'll most onto some of McCall's costume patterns. I picked up the recent Pride and Prejudice and Zombies inspired pattern M7493. I absolutely adore the coat and I'm wondering how well it would work with a steampunk outfit. Short jackets are something that ISN'T very period Victorian, but IS very steampunk, so Regency-era spencers are something I think translate well.

I also like the Regency gown under the coat, since it is very simple and I tend to like simplicity in my Regency styles. It probably doesn't have as much fabric in the skirt as a real historical pattern would, but this is really meant to be more costume than recreation and I appreciate it being slightly more frugal. This will give you the look, especially with the long coat.

I need an excuse to make this whole outfit, really. Why aren't there Regency events around here? As far as the pattern it looks fine, the instructions are standard pattern instructions, nothing seems overly complicated.

Next up is a McCall's pattern from YaYa Han for Men's pants and vest, M7399. When I first saw this pattern, I was not too impressed. It looked like a pretty boring, standard pattern of men's Victorian wear. The pants don't have anything exciting going on, and the single-breasted vest is pretty plain. It is a little different than the more common lapel-style vest, so that's something, but overall the pattern didn't scream NEED TO OWN to me. Until I noticed the line drawing that shows this pattern actually includes three completely different vests: single, double-breasted, and a lapel-version of single breasted. The double-breasted version is SUPER steampunk and of a style that I don't think exists as a pattern from a major company yet. (Harlots and Angels has a similar vest pattern on Etsy.)

I don't know where this style of vest first came into steampunk, but it seems like it's been copied by a lot of clothing makers and artists. Which is cool, cause it's awesome. So I think this pattern is worth while for the vests. As for the pants? They appear to be a bog-standard pair of modern trousers, with zipper fly and everything, so I don't see what it's necessary. Yes, you could get away with using this pattern for steampunk wear, but there's nothing inherently steampunk about them and they aren't very Victorian.

I also picked up the Yaya Han corseted bodysuit M7398. I haven't made a bunnysuit style bodysuit before, so I thought it'd be interesting to see this pattern. Overall the pictures of the finished suits look pretty nice and I like that it has different pattern pieces for different cup sizes, up to size D. The
curve in the waist is VERY mild, though, so this is really made for people with athletic figures and not sizable hips. It's definitely not meant to really be a reducing corset. There is a version with a zipper closure in the back and one with lacing closure that is meant to be laced completely closed.

The instructions are very detailed and give advice about using steal boning (both flat and spiral) and how to cut and order boning. The boning is attached to the lining layer by placing channels made of bias binding over the seams on the inside. The top layer is free-floating for a smooth look, which is appropriate for this style.

I like the instructions for the elastic around the leg openings and the hook and eye closure between the legs. Over all, the construction is ok for a costume piece that won't see a lot of use. It's not likely to take a lot of strain or heavy wear, but that's most likely not what most people looking for a bunny suit will want. If it were me making it, I'd make sure to make the lining of a strong twill or coutil and use something a little better than store-bought bias for my bone channels. Otherwise, you could follow the pattern instructions.

Again, I'd say this isn't a pattern that is going to work for every body type and is mostly intended for women who fit in a narrow range of sizes and fairly straight or gently curved figures. But this is a challenging style garment to make for more extreme curves, so that's not really surprising.

Finally I also picked up the M7373 Coat by Yaya Han. This was really popular when I posted a picture of it before. I do love the gored version shown on the front of the pattern. I wish the longer version also had contrast gores but it is pretty voluminous on its own. There's not that much to say about this pattern, as it's a fairly standard garment. It's lined, has pockets, and doesn't seem to have cut any construction corners. I'm glad it has two sleeve options if you don't like the poofy shorter sleeves you can substitute the straight, long sleeves.

Costuming updates

2016-09-05T05:49:00.000-05:00

So WAY back in January, I posted about my plan for my next costume make for myself: the Soulless Manga Floating Dress.

At the time my personal financial situation was just starting to stabilize and I thought it wouldn't be much of a problem to find the money for the couple kinds of fabric I needed to make that outfit. And then personal disaster struck and suddenly things like keeping my utilities on and food in the house became pressing concerns. Obviously, making a dress was pretty much last on my list of priorities.

But I did come up with an alternative source of fabric for this outfit. I have a big roll of pale pink silk that I got super cheap in an estate sale. Since I have no desire to make anything in pale pink, and no customer has appear requesting a giant pink princess dress, I decided I would try to dye this fabric to a dark teal to make the bodice and hat for this costume.

So here's what the fabric looked like to start with. I was fairly sure this was silk dupioni based on the crisp hand, shine, etc. I did a burn test and it was ashy. So I went looking for dye for silk and learned that RIT dye is generally recommended. Not all dyes will work on silk, but RIT does, apparently. So I bought some teal RIT powder dye and dyed up several yards at once in my washing machine. I have a front-loading washer, which isn't ideal for dyeing, but I read a couple articles on how to make it work. I've tried dyeing large amounts of fabric on the stove before with really poor results, so I thought this would be best.

When I moved the fabric from the washer to the dryer I was pleased with how dark it was, but it appeared more green than I really wanted. After it dried, it looked MUCH lighter and this was the result. Not the most even dye job, and both too light and more green than I really wanted.

Looking closely at the fabric I noticed it looked like some of the fibers had not taken the dye, so I decided maybe the fabric I had wasn't 100% silk after all, maybe it was a silk/poly blend. I've seen 80/20 and 70/30 blends that were difficult to distinguish from pure silk, after all. I did another burn test and still wasn't sure about the results. So I looked into dyes that work on polyester. I've dyed poly before, so I knew it required high heat. The problem is that the color options for poly dyes if really limited. There are basically two poly home dyes: iDye Poly and RIT DyeMore. Neither has a teal color. It's blue or green. So I decided to try dyeing this same batch of fiber with blue poly dye. I was hoping that just the poly threads would take the blue and it would combine with the greener shade and give me something like what I was after.

And, although dyeing 5 yards of fabric in a stock pot turned out to be easier than the last time I tried, the results were not what I was hoping. The fabric took the dye beautifully. And I wound up with some lovely blue fabric. Not at all teal. So...I have really no idea what this means for my fiber content. Was it not at all silk? Did the silk take the poly dye even though the dye packet indicated it wouldn't? Was it the heat that helped it take the dye or actually the different dye formulation. Would my original dye have worked better on the stove rather than in the front-loading washer? Yeah, I'm still pondering these mysteries and what to do about them. You may also notice that the fabric has lost it's shine. That's not strange for silk, which loses it's shine in temps over 185 degrees F.

My plan from here is to test a small piece of fabric with some regular RIT dye I have on the stove to see if it takes better than it did in the washer. If not, then I'll probably try mixing blue and green poly dye to try to achieve the appropriate color.

Meanwhile I've had some other costume projects pop up. There's a Harry Potter Yule Ball being held in December in Houston and appropriate costumes are required. So I've started working on a Steampunk Hogwarts robe costume. It's going to be put together out of all fabric I already own and pieces that I'll be able to use for multiple events/looks. I hope it'll all work together.

The first piece I'm working on is a black taffeta skirt from the Truly Victorian 261 Pattern. I'm doing the view with the bustle pouf at the back. This is a truly versatile pattern I've made before, without the pouf.

The skirt is mostly assembled, but I decided I wanted to add a zipper closure to avoid showing off my underwear since I plan to wear the skirt alone. And I don't care whether or not a zipper is period accurate. So until I can get to a store and buy a zipper, I'm waiting to finish the waistband and do the final bustling and hemming.

For the top I'm planning on making the jacket from this Simplicity Pattern (long-sleeved version.) I'm still slightly debating but I'm leaning towards using a wool suiting with subtle pinstripe. It's not Harry Potter traditional, but something about that fabric wants to be that jacket and it seems scholarly to me so I hope it works with a taffeta skirt. I'll probably add a hooded short cape with Slytherin colors and accessorize as much as possible.

And I've just learned about a New Year's Eve Labyrinth Ball in Austin. Labyrinth is my all-time favorite movie so naturally I've started daydreaming about an outfit for that. I don't actually know if I'll be able to attend, and it's not super likely I will since my husband works in the restaurant industry now. BUT I just may have an outfit already planned and fabric picked out for that. And I'll probably try to make that whether or not I actually go to this event.

So, that's what's up in my costuming life. Too many ideas, not enough time and money, but what else is new. And of course I have at least one commission and things to make to sell at an event or two this fall. I'm currently working on a prototype for a new line of corsets I want to sell. I wish I could sew all the hours of the day, but my back is currently reminding me that that's not an option, ow.

Friday Finds: Casual Steampunk from ModCloth

2016-09-02T03:30:00.002-05:00

It's been a while since I did a collection of steampunky items from Modcloth. I'm an affiliate with them, so I get a commission on any sales. But I also think it's cool to look for modern fashion that would work for daily wear OR a steampunk outfit.

Modcloth is having a 50% off sale on a lot of items for labor day. Check out the sale here, even if you don't get any of these items.

First of all...guys, guys. Look. It's boot season again, and there's no shortage of knee-high leather boots with buckles that would work great for steampunk. But LOOK at the corset style lacing up the back of these. I'm totally in lust. In fact, I'm very tempted to buy these for myself... On Vocation Time Boot in Wine

While capes may not always seem like the most practical choice, in fact they're super warm and a great addition in winter. It's like having a wearable blanket to snuggle with. The fact that this one is reminiscent of Sherlock Holmes is a bonus. Pardon my French Quarter Cape

I love the all-purpose nature of this tote bag. Purse, briefcase, convention bag, whatever. And would fit in perfectly with a variety of steampunk personas OR modern styles. Camp Director Tote

Not QUITE period, but only because of the inside zipper. But otherwise these are the perfect boots to go with a wide variety of Victorian or Steampunk outfits. Only a few sizes left, though (which is probably good for me cause they're out of my size.) From The Same Same Cloth Boot

Who doesn't love a good military style jacket? This has nice details in the buttons and gathered sleeve caps, but it's not too extreme for the office. I Glam Hardly Believe It Jacket

More boots! Chunky heels and lots of laces, but with the convenience of a zipper (I HATE lacing up tall boots). The price is also really affordable. And how could I leave this off the list with a name like Picking Up Steampunk Boot

This is a super cute set of plastic bottles meant for airline carry-on travel. And while they are cute for that, I'm thinking they're IDEAL as parts of a costume. They look great for attaching to any belt, bracer, hat or whatever, plus they're plastic so you don't have to worry about breaking them. Set the Wheels in Potion Set

This is definitely a piece that's going to look different depending on what you wear it with. It could go from Lolita to Boho to Post-apocalyptic with the right accessories. Office-ticated Appeal Jacket

Yes, more boots. More CORSET LACED boots. These are gorgeous, but also really pricey. But hey, sometimes boots are worth it. Genre Queen Boot

Fall Patterns - McCall's and Simplicity

2016-08-19T16:07:00.000-05:00

M7493 is a Regency era Costume with a Pride and Prejudice and Zombies feel to it. While the actual dress is perfectly nice, the coat is the star. I ADORE the long version of this coat. The short version is also nice, though not nearly as badass.

While Regency has never been my favorite period for costuming, I've always loved Regency era Spencer coats. And now I want to make this one.

Simplicity 8233 Cosplay Pattern is a little amusing to me because someone finally decided to make a pattern for Ciel's pink dress from Black Butler, which is one of the more popular anime cosplays of several years ago.

I'm not sure if the black and white costume is also referencing something specific or not. And, ok, you could make that pink dress in another color and it wouldn't automatically look like the Black Butler cosplay. So, yeah, these are cute.

Simplicity has released two Alice in Wonderland cosplay patterns: this one and an Alice dress. The Alice one is more specific, and in my opinion less potentially useful for costumes other than Alice. This one I like, in particular the tops and think they could be used effectively in steampunk.

Overall the costumes are cute, but I'm not sure what I think about this "make costumes with short skirts for women" trend Simplicity seems to be going for. The skirts are far too short to be Lolita, and this feels a little like having "sexy" versions of costumes for Halloween.

On the other hand, here's a men's cosplay pattern. It's got a definite Assassin's Creed feel to it, especially the version with the hood. But these pieces could also be used for a range of fantasy inspired costumes.

The red short jacket in particular would work nicely for steampunk. The long blue coat would also work, maybe with a bit of tweaking as it looks slightly Renaissance.

Simplicity's fall collection also included several nice 40's and 50's vintage patterns and two bra patterns, which may be of interest.

Friday Finds: Oak Tree Farms Boots

2016-08-19T04:15:00.003-05:00

Have you guys seen the new line of Victorian inspired footwear from Oak Tree Farms?

They're gorgeous. I'm not being paid to promote them or anything, I just want to share the shoe porn. They have a collection of Victorian boots that range from very historically accurate to quite modern, but all of them would be ideal for steampunk. The only downside is the price, which is not at all cheap. But they really do look remarkably well made.

Eleanor in teak

Mirabelle in black

Ariana in Red

Amelia in Black Teak

Mostly I want someone out there with more money than I to go buy these because they are so pretty.

New Cosplay by McCall's Patterns: Renegade and Sentinel

2016-08-17T16:43:00.001-05:00

Today Cosplay by McCall's has released two new patterns in their premium line.

I'm really excited about the first one, Renegade.

It's a plus size corset pattern from Anachronism in Action, with a laced halter top. I remember the first time Kelly made a corset with this top, so I'm super excited she's released a pattern for what is one of her signature pieces.

It's only available in plus sizes, due to apparent high demand for plus size corset patterns. Smaller sized people are going to have to do some pattern modification for once if they want to use this one.

The back view is the really exciting part, as you can see how the belt and harness top connect. This is a look that can work with a lot of potential styles from a sexy modern club look to a more steampunk antique feel.

Plus if you don't like the top, this is just a nice, fairly standard plus sized underbust pattern. There are two different plus sizes for this pattern, going up to a 32W size, which should really cover a ton of women. It's great to see them expanding their size offerings.

The second pattern released is Sentinel, a more medieval fantasy styled costume.

It consists of a tunic, vest, separate hood, and bracers. While this isn't obviously steampunk, I do really like the design.

The tunic is very attractive and could probably work for everyday clothing if you're adventurous. And the vest has a nice shape that could be used in a steampunk outfit as well. All together these pieces say fantasy, but as individual pieces I think they could work in a variety of looks.

What do you guys think? Is this line of patterns doing a good job of appealing to you?

Craftsy Class Review: Sew Better, Sew Faster: Advanced Industry Techniques

2016-08-05T16:15:00.000-05:00

I've been interested in Janet Pray's "Sew Better, Sew Faster" classes on Craftsy for a while, as I am always looking for ways to make my sewing easier, more professional, and faster. So I picked up this "Advanced Industry Techniques" class in a recent sale. I chose this one, rather than her more basic class hoping I would have more to learn from an advanced class.

Well I have to say this is probably to best Craftsy class I've taken. I've taken some really useful ones in the past on specific subjects (alterations, serging) but this one covered so much useful information on basic sewing techniques.

Sew Better, Sew Faster: Advanced Industry Techniques

The teacher, Janet Pray, has a long history of working in the garment industry and teaching garment industry sewing. I never realized how different techniques really were from the garment industry to home sewing, assuming it was mostly machinery and repetition that made industry sewers so fast. But Janet explains that home sewing techniques have mostly been passed from generation to generation and originally came from hand-sewing techniques, while garment industry techniques are about what actually works best and is fastest.

Topics covered in the class are cutting, marking, sewing without pins, interfacing and pressing, zippers, waistbands, buttonholes, and seam finishes. You can see these are all basic and frequent sewing tasks, and I think I learned at least one really useful thing on each topic, and usually many things.

Janet also covers topics such as tools and ergonomics. I've already gone out and bought myself a board to make a custom extension for my sewing machine bed since it's vintage and doesn't sit down into my table. I found myself taking notes throughout the class (which luckily Craftsy makes easy to do within their interface.) That's something I've honestly never done for any other Craftsy course. I find myself really eager to try out all the techniques from the class. I put off this review until I had a chance to try out what I learned from the class in practice. I was able to do that when I made myself some board shorts recently. I'll admit the idea of sewing without pins was daunting. I found myself still using one or two pins in places to line things up. But overall, I found her methods really worked! I was able to stitch without pins, or using only very few. I followed some of her advice on topstitching to achieve a more professional looking result. I was able to cut multiple layers of stretch fabric at one time without it shifting AND without pins.

I think it's safe to say that this class has had the biggest effect on my sewing habits of any I've taken, and I highly recommend it.

Oh and just for the hell of it, here are the board shorts I made. I used this pattern, which includes built-in swim bottoms.

New Butterick Historical Patterns

2016-08-03T23:21:00.002-05:00

B6397 has 4 different hat patterns. This Victorian style, a pillbox hat, a broad brimmed hat, and what looks something like a beret. (Only the Victorian and the pillbox style have photos.) I adore this style of Victorian women's hat, perfect to wear with updos. This will make a stylish and different option for a steampunk costume.

B6400 Boned, Back-Pleat Jackets - This looks like a fairly historically accurate Victorian bodice pattern, with a few subtle variations. (Not sure why they call it a jacket instead of a bodice, other than they are trying to use modern terms to avoid confusion?) There are three different cosmetic variations to the front and two styles of back pleats, all pretty attractive. I like this military-style front the best. I would like to see a made-up photo rather than just drawings, but this is probably a good pattern to have if you do Victorian costume.

B6398 - Misses Gloves in 6 Styles - 6 Styles of Historical women's gloves, short, medium, and long in length. I have an older version of this pattern, so I think this is just a slight update from another Making History pattern. I do like these half-lace gloves pictured.

B6399 - Misses Drop Waist Dress with Oversized Bow - I love this particular 1920s style, and it's definitely the one I would try to make for myself were I going to costume in that period. This is a really pretty example, and a good addition to existing patterns.

McCall's New Steamy Patterns - Early Fall

2016-07-26T04:04:00.001-05:00

M7439 - Misses Gathered Skirts and Flared Skirts with Belt - This is a cute little pattern with several skirt variations. There are versions with and without a tier, with a high-low hem, large patch pockets, and the shaped waistband with or without decorative buttons. It's the waistband that makes this steamy and while not quite full enough for true Lolita still gives it a steampunk lolita feel.

M7457 - Men's Embellished Jacket, Pull-On Pants, and Cravat. So this seems to be the first pattern from a VJ Dunraven Productions pattern line. If, like me, you're wondering who VJ Dunraven Productions is, they apparently shoot romance novel covers? And now they make patterns? I have to share that information with you, because I want to inspire the slightly bemused reaction in you that it caused in me.

This pattern is very costume-y. That's an insult in historical clothing circles, fyi. I'm not sure this is really accurate to any particular historical period, though it's vaguely Regency and vaguely early Victorian. If you were to wear this to most historical costume events, I'm afraid it wouldn't be much of a success. The construction of the costume is also very theatrical. The pants are pull-on with an elastic waist and faux buttoned front. The jacket velcros shut and all the buttons are merely decorative. It's an effect that can be very effective in photos or stage, but tends to look fake in person.

But this is a steampunk blog, and I'm not at all married to historical accuracy in either style or practicalities. I personally would probably try to modify the top to have some kind of functional closure because velcro annoys me. It seems to always LOOK fake and cheap when worn, though it's certainly practical for theatrical purposes. But I think this could be used style-wise for a steampunk costume, certainly. The pants definitely would be a useful addition to most steampunk gent's wardrobes. (But if you have a fake drop front you can't use that flap for what my husband uses his for: holding a flask. Protip right there.)

The cravat is a Regency style long cravat that is meant to be worn as pictured, wrapped once entirely around the throat and then tied on the second wrapping.

M7456 - Misses' Seamed Jacket, Stirrup pants, and Cape - So this appears to be yet another Once Upon a Time costume pattern from McCall's, who has already done two patterns inspired by the costumes of the show. I thought I'd just point it out, and the jacket could work for steampunk, but I don't think this is a must-have pattern or anything.

Finally, the latest "wave" of Cosplay by McCall's patterns are out and only one of them has real steampunk interest: Spectral. It's a version of a costume from the film Crimson Peak.

I like it, but I'm not sure how much it translates to a useful generic steampunk costume. It's a nice Victorian nightgown though. And maybe the outer gown could be modded a bit, too. If you like leg-o-mutton sleeves, this is for you. :)

Craftsy Corset Making Class Review

2016-07-05T03:24:00.000-05:00

If you've been following this blog for a while, or happen to have adblocker turned off (which I'd appreciate of course), you may know I'm a fan of Craftsy. There's a lot of sides to Craftsy: you can sell and buy sewing patterns there, list projects, buy supplies etc, but mostly they have a lot of really professional online classes on a really wide range of craft-related subjects.

And while I'm always interested in browsing through the weirder sections of the class listings (So many things to do with metal! And did you know there are cooking classes?), I really am only interested in the sewing classes. I've taken several in the past and learned A LOT. I taught myself to sew out of books and the internet, so there are a lot of holes in my knowledge. Or things I had to figure out by trial and error that hey, someone has right here in a class.

A few months ago a new class went up on Corset Making, and it got a lot of interest from my readers and people in various corset making groups. I wanted to check it out, but I also knew that I was unlikely to learn much from the class. Corset Making is one thing I know a lot about. I teach classes on the subject, after all. I've spent years reading everything I could find on the subject. So I didn't want to spend the money for the class.

Luckily, Joann's shared a link for a free Craftsy class in their newsletter. And I jumped on it, and chose this class for All of You.

Sewing Corsets: Essential Techniques

Price: $49.99

So I've now watched the whole class. It's presented by Alison Smith who runs a School of Sewing in the UK. It seems she's been teaching and making corsets for a long time, but she's not someone I'm familiar with from the corsetry world. In general her presentation is clear, and like all Craftsy classes I've encountered it's well put together, shot, and produced.

One up front criticism I have of this class is that Ms. Smith presents what she is teaching as THE way to make a corset and rarely offers any alternatives to her method or materials. So if you want to make a corset using the materials she uses and the construction method she uses, this is a good class. But it's important to know that this is only one of a myriad of ways one can make a corset. I wish that was made more explicit in this class.

This class teaches a corset with single layer construction and external bone casings. (Although she shows both single layer and a corset with one strength layer and one fashion layer, the construction is still functionally single layer since there's just one strength layer and no lining.) This is a historically accurate method, especially in the late Victorian and Edwardian period, but it's still just one possible way of construction. It's fairly lightweight and may not be the best for corsets which will get heavy wear, be tightlacing, or need extra sturdiness for other reasons. There is very little discussion about any of these factors in the class: it is very much about construction and not fitting or designing. All the example corsets have a very mild shape.

I was surprised from the beginning that there much discussion about fitting or choosing a pattern to fit. The teacher sells her own corset pattern, which she uses for the class. I went to look at that pattern, but it's only available in a very small range of sizes. It's a 5 panel per side pattern with a very gentle, modern fit. She does mention several other patterns, including the ever popular Laughing Moon 100, but most of them are historical in nature. She recommends piecing the paper pattern pieces together to test the fit, something which I feel is unlikely to help very much. She gives a brief demonstration of a bust enlargement and how to raise the front of the bust, which is something which will need to be done to almost any historical pattern.

But honestly I was shocked that she doesn't mention or recommend making a mock-up first. If there's one piece of advice that should be universal for making a corset, it's to make a mock-up to test your pattern and adjust it. She does show a fitting of the corset after it is constructed and before the bone casings are applied, with notes to adjust it if necessary, but that will only help if the corset is too large, rather than too small anywhere. If someone discovers they need more room in the bust or more coverage at this point, they have to almost start over, and have wasted their expensive fabric. So I wouldn't recommend following the class on that score.

Her presentation of corsetry supplies is very good, and it's definitely a plus of the format that students can see what everything looks like before they go shopping. I wish she talked about alternatives to coutil, though, because since it's a difficult to find expensive specialty fabric, I don't recommend it for true beginners. (I recommend starting with cotton duck, which isn't quite as nice in a few ways, but is readily available for at least half the price of coutil.)

The class on sewing the corset panels together is nice and she gives a lot of useful guidance on how to attach a straighter piece to a more curved edge. The busk insertion is very nice to see on video because it can be a little tricky to describe, although she starts with the pin side instead of the loop side, which is opposite to how I do it. (I find the loops have more tendency to shift vertical position during sewing so I sew that side and then use it to mark where the pins need to go.) I find her method of doing the rear panel with a facing folded under to be really fiddly, although it does look neat when she does it.

Her fitting before adding bones is something that's ok to do if you're assembling a corset this way, but I find a proper fitting (in mock-up) requires bones to know how the corset is really going to fit. So again, I think it's really important to make a boned mock-up to test your pattern and adjust it first. There's no direction given in this class on how to adjust the fit if it doesn't fit, which is actually the most difficult part of corset making.

Ms. Smith shows one method of making bone casings through the use of a bias tape maker. This is definitely one way you can do it, but I've never had a good experience with those tools. Most corset makings I know (and myself) instead sew strips of fabric into tubes, press the seams open, and then affix these tubes to the corset. I think it's actually much easier and more reliable that way. The other thing I don't like about her bone casings is that they're made of one layer of silk with fusible interfacing and that's it. No coutil at all. I've heard of people doing it this way, but I can't believe a corset would last long with the one layer holding the bones in being interfaced silk. I always use a layer of coutil with a fashion fabric on top if necessary. I once made casings from duck and the bones wore through those in 4 months, so I never did that again. (That's one reason I don't like this method unless I'm using excellent materials.)

She offers one alternate construction method which she calls using "run and fell seams." Now this is a term I've never heard in my life. I've never heard of a run and fell seam at all. It seems to be the same as a flat felled seam so I'm assuming this is a UK term but I can only find a couple links that even use the term. Anyway, using flat felled seams in corsetry is a thing that happens, but it's not at all common. I believe it was used historically in single layer Edwardian corsets. At least a couple of the Google results you'll get using flat felled seam for corsets are actually describing what is commonly called the Welt Seam Method or what I call the Folded Seam Method specifically to avoid this kind of confusion. But that's NOT the method she is describing. I've never attempted to make a corset with the seams she describes so I'm not going to get into that further. But I'll just say it's a pretty uncommon method that I think isn't very beginner friendly.

And honestly that's typical of how I feel about this class and Alison Smith's teaching in general. There are frequently things she says that either strike me as not exactly correct or that seem to just be out of touch with the way things are usually done in the online corsetry community. I've been actively involved with discussion with other corset makers online for six years now, starting as a total newbie myself. There's an entire website of corset making advice written by the best makers in the world (and, umm, me.) And at several point in this class I felt that what Ms. Smith said wasn't in line with what would be considered "accepted wisdom."

There were a couple of historical details that she seemed to get wrong or at least misstate. She mentioned that spoon busks were popular in Edwardian corsets. That's actually not at all accurate, as far as I know. Spoon busks create a curved stomach sillouette which was popular in the Victorian period (particularly mid to late Victorian?), which an Edwardian corset would usually mean an S-bend or "straight front" corset. As you can guess the front is meant to be straight, with the curve being in the rear spine. She also mentions S-bend corsets and bustles as things that went together, and that's just...not correct.

She later says "you'll never find a corset with a side seam" and that's so completely untrue. Side-seams are extremely popular on modern corsets because they emphasize the side shaping and allow a more drastic silhouette. This fantastic guide to corset buying takes the presence of a side seam for granted.

There are a lot of assumptions Ms. Smith seems to make about corsets based on her own pattern and perhaps some historical corsets that simply don't ring true in modern corsetry. Her pattern is 5 panels per side, while most modern corsets are at least six. She only takes one width of boning into consideration when there are at least three common sizes of spirals and even more of flats.

And I mean, ok, this is probably why experts shouldn't watch classes meant for beginners, because I found myself constantly saying "well, but..." as I watched. I don't mean to eviscerate the class or the teacher, as I think it's actually a useful tool, especially for someone with no previous corset experience and who learns best visually. This will definitely give you more confidence in approaching your first corset.

But I think it's necessary to understand that this is only one way to do it. There are probably as many ways to make a corset as there are corset makers, or actually more because I use several methods depending on the needs of the corset. So do your research from other sources as well, and keep that in mind when looking to make your corset.

Understand also, it's in my financial interest for you to go buy this class, since I am a Craftsy affiliate and will get a commission if you buy any class after clicking my links. So do I recommend that you buy it? Well, I'd probably wait for a sale (Craftsy has lots of sales).

I'm taking another sewing class right now that is FANTASTIC so I'll post about that as soon as I finish watching it.

New Patterns of Interest - Steampunk and DC and Doctor Who

2016-06-28T02:31:00.000-05:00

Hi guys!

I've had a lot going on both personally and professionally. I have had a stream of corset commissions, which is GREAT, but it's kept me busy in the studio. I haven't had a chance to do much sewing for myself or work on any new cosplays or designs.

There are two newer Cosplay by McCall's patterns out, but only one of them is going to be of much interest for steampunk.

And that is Notched, a men's Victorian styled overcoat.

It's an attractive coat. But I have to say that I think it's a bit of a cheat to call this two views. It's the same exact coat, with the same exact button placement and pockets and everything else. The only difference is that one has a contrast binding and one does not. So the pattern is exactly the same but the instructions are slightly different.

The back is really nice looking as well. The skirt is nicely full, which you don't always get in men's modern coats.

Of course this pattern isn't only good for Victorian or steampunk clothing. It would be good for several Doctor Who costumes like the 10th Doctor or Jack Harkness.

So, based on what I can tell from looking at the pattern (which was generously sent to me by McCall's) this is a nice pattern, if an overcoat is what you want. I do think it is a little limited, since it's basically just one item.

But if you live in a cold climate, a good coat is an important part of your steampunk wardrobe so it may be worth it to you.

Simplicity has a new line of DC bombshells patterns. They're not steampunk, but I think the retro/pin-up style is of interest to my readers, so if you haven't seen them, here they are.

Supergirl - I love the flare of the skirt on this one.

Wonder Woman - I love the retro shorts, and think you could almost use them for steampunk with the right outfit.

Batgirl - This is fun, with the utility belt (which hey, you could also use for steampunk!).

Here is a man's DC costume for the Joker. Of course it's also an outfit that in other colors/fabrics would be perfectly steampunk.

There hasn't been a mainstream tailed coat pattern, so this is good. Unfortunately, it doesn't include a pattern for the spats in the photo.

This Doctor Who costume is interesting. It's a strange combination of Doctor Who and steampunk without really being either one. It's fairly basic, especially the skirt and pants, which are both elastic waists. I do really like the bolero. The corset on the dress outfit doesn't do anything for me, shape-wise. The interesting thing is that the vest on the left is actually a corset with laces in the back. But I'm not entirely sure how it works from the line drawings.

And finally, I just really like this dress/style. And on first glance, I thought this was an intentional Dalek dress, but I'm pretty sure it's not. I guess I could be wrong and it's a faux Dalek and the blue one is meant to be TARDIS-y. But those are flowers. I guess it could be really undercover geeky.

And I've decided this length of skirt is what I want to wear all the time. It's about the length of my cancan skirts, which are my most frequently worn steampunk items.

Cosplay by McCall's Pattern Review: Belle Rogue and Belle Noir

2016-05-09T13:33:00.000-05:00

I was excited to get a close look at these two new patterns because I think they have a lot of potential for steampunks. I'll start with Belle Rogue because it's my personal favorite.

First the tulle skirt. Everything about how the skirt is put together and made makes sense. There's a lining under the tulle and an elastic waist. Really the more I look at this skirt, the more I want to make myself one. Now I just need the money for a metric crap-ton of tulle.

The detachable train is a little more disappointing. It's made from pre-ruffled chiffon, so basically it's just a piece of fabric shaped into a train with a bow. It's not exactly something most people would need a pattern to figure out. I like it ok as a design feature, but as a pattern it's fairly useless.

Then there's the corset. I said some pretty negative things about this corset based on the photos, but I do have to take some of those back. I was totally surprised to find the instructions for the corset construction are actually...pretty good! It's got a floating fashion layer, which means the bone casings aren't sewn through the top layer. The base lining layer is constructed with seam allowances pressed to one side of each seam, and the bone channel sewn into the seam allowances. You'll note this method avoids the problem I had with the other corset patterns from this line, the weakness of pressing seam allowances open in a corset. If I were going to make a corset with a floating fashion layer, this is how I would do it. In fact, I have done this.

The pattern also recommends using spiral steel boning and gives good tips on cutting boning yourself instead of buying it pre-cut. The top and bottom edges of the corset are put together in a non-typical way. The floating layer is sewn to the top and back right sides together and then flipped, so the edges are finished without binding. I've never tried this, but it is a neat option for a corset with a floating top layer. The bottom is then sewn closed and there is a large pleated ruffle that goes over it. I would almost definitely still bind the bottom edge to prevent fraying and just for neatness sake, though the pattern doesn't call for it.

I like the ruffle and bows (which are removable or movable as they are attached to pin backs) on the bottom of the corset. It definitely adds a lolita flair and helps the corset blend into the skirt. So all that is fine, in my opinion. The only problem I still have with the corset is the shape of it. It's not very curvy. The panels are really pretty straight up and down other than at the very front of the bust. So this might work ok for a thin, straight figure, but would be uncomfortable or poor fitting on anyone curvier. And I haven't tested the sizing, but I'd imagine you can safely go down two sizes from the recommended size for the corset portion.

There is also some good advice given in the pattern to keep from getting your pattern pieces mixed up and making sure your color alternates panels. Plus a special section of tips on working with tulle, which seems like all good advice. The pattern also includes some small wrist cuffs with ruffles and a hair bow. I do like the instructions for making the bows in this pattern, which are something that sound a lot easier than they actually are to make look nice.

So overall, I think this is a well-written and designed pattern. I like the striped effect, and it brings a real burlesque/circus vibe to a gothic and steampunk outfit.

On to the other pattern from this designer: Belle Noir. This outfit is a lot harder to see detail on in the photographs due to the dark colors. It's actually not all black, there's some dark red that I couldn't see online. So it's worth looking at the line drawings to see what all the pieces actually are.

The skirt has an ankle-length part with lace trim around the bottom, and a handkerchief over-skirt that is shorter in the front and longer in the back. This is all attached to the same elastic waistband, which reduces bulk at the expense of not allowing for mixing and matching.

The blouse is a wrap-style sleeveless top with flutter sleeve caps. It's closed only with a tie. As someone who is busty, I wonder how secure that really be. The pattern also includes some detached sleeves with long kimono-style panels and a lace edge. I can see how the wrap top, waist piece and sleeves add up to be a modern/gothic deconstructed kimono, but I'm not sure that is totally successful. Personally I don't like the sleeves.

The bustle and waist piece are really interesting, though. The bustle is quite complex, with three separate swagged drapes which are each attached to a base panel, so that's six actual layers. Quite a lot of fabric. It's all attached to the wide fabric belt/corselet. This has plastic stays on the front side seams and gathered elastic shirring in the back. This is actually a pretty clever way to attach a bustle and a nice alternative to wearing a corset. It should be comfy with the elastic, but still look fairly nice in the front. The plastic is an appropriate choice in this case because it's not under strain, but just there to hold the piece upright and taut.

My only concern with this piece is the weight of the bustle pulling on the elastic back and making it sag or not look nice, especially over time. I think this is something you'd have to test, and possibly consider when choosing your fabrics. The pattern actually calls for the drapes to be made of lace and organza, so it's meant to be lightweight. The bow is attached with a pin-back again, as is the chain hanging on the bustle.

Finally, the pattern also includes what they call a fascinator. I couldn't make it out on the photos among the model's hair, and I thought the line drawing just showed a gathering piece of veil. But in actuality, it's a mini top-hat. It's made from craft foam with fabric fused to it, and constructed with hot glue. The trim covers the seams. It's really a quick way to make a nice little hat with veil and bows. Not something you can't find instructions for elsewhere, but a nice bonus addition to the pattern. I was concerned when I read on the inside flap that trim was attached with hot glue, but that's only for the hat; everywhere else in the pattern the trim is sewn on.

So overall, how do I feel about these two patterns? I'm glad they exist. I like that they are a blending of lolita and Japanese fashion with goth and steampunk. (At least Belle Noir is. Belle Rogue is pretty standard goth.) Ultimately, whether a purchase of these patterns is worth it for you is going to depend on your personal taste. On the one hand, I know there are cosplayers out there who always say "I can make that without a pattern." But I also see new cosplayers and sewers asking for patterns all the time, so I think there is a market. Personally I am a pattern hoarder because my creative time is always limited and I'd rather not spend it reinventing the wheel if there's already a pattern available for what I want to do.

And I'm fairly itching to make that tulle skirt. If I get the time and materials, of course I'll report back on how that goes.

New Simplicity Steampunk Sewing Patterns (and a bit more)

2016-05-04T17:21:00.000-05:00

It's all sewing patterns all the time around here, but there are lots of exciting things coming out from pattern companies now that they've figured out costumers and cosplayers are their best customers.

Simplicity has a bunch of really interesting new patterns.

First up, this pretty darn awesome design from Lori Ann Costume Designs. The one on the left has an obvious Jane from Tarzan feel, but in general this is a nice generic steampunk design.

The pattern includes a double layer long skirt with ruffles, a hi-low skirt as seen on the left, a bustled overskirt, and a smaller rear bustle as seen on the right. So two different long skirts and two different bustle styles.

Plus the really very lovely corset. There isn't another yoked corset pattern out there, and this one looks curvier than the corsets in Lori Ann's last patterns. I'd of course like a closer look at the corset pattern before making a judgement.

My only concern with it is that it seems to be too high to be an underbust, so it's trying to be a weird hybrid of underbust and mid-bust. Which in my experience tends to lead to uncomfortable fit and usually also immodest or unattractive spillage. So if I were making it, I'd probably cut it down to make it fall under the bra line like a proper underbust.

Next up is this very interesting set of "Misses Alternative Fashion Sportswear Pieces." That description makes me chuckle because I think Simplicity wasn't sure how to classify these pieces and neither am I. They are basically steampunk underwear, but mostly too decorative not to be seen. The black set is pretty close to some historical early 20th century underwear, really. And the pale set is cute, but really strikes me as something meant to be worn under something. The brown and black version, though, is very definitely steampunk and could make a super cute summer or beach outfit as-is.

I realize my reactions to these as skimpy and something I wouldn't ever wear in public makes me old. That doesn't mean that there aren't plenty of young ladies who can pull these off. OR some of the pieces would make very nice options to wear under skirts. The bloomers are super cute, and I can see them working great for burlesque costumes as well. So while a bit bemused, I'm happy to see this pattern. And maybe some of y'all just need really goth or steampunk gym clothes.

I REALLY like this Rockabilly/Lolita dress pattern. These are both styles and subcultures I admire greatly from afar. So I love both versions of this. I like the fullness and length of the skirt, not to narrow or too short. I know there are some Lolita purists (ok, maybe a LOT of lolita purists) who will be quick to say this isn't Lolita because it's too low-cut. Well you could always wear something under it if you are concerned about breaking the rules. Personally, I'm a steampunk so as soon as someone tells me there are rules, I want to break them. I'd really love to do a steampunk version of the Lolita dress, actually....I wish I had time for all my ideas.

So Simplicity has added to the rapidly increasing number of mainstream corset patterns with this "Easy Waist Cincher Corsets" pattern. I'm a little wary of a corset pattern labeled "easy" as that smacks of poor quality construction. And the pattern calls for featherweight boning, so my fears seem justified. (NEVER use featherweight or Rigiline. If you're looking for cheap, easily available boning in plastic, use heavy duty cable ties, please.) The shape of these is okay, I guess. But honestly, if you can buy a plastic boned corset with this shape for $15, why bother making one? If you're going to make something, make it right. Spend a little more money on materials and time researching corset construction.

And then I'm stepping a bit outside normal steampunk period for a bit to share a couple of other new patterns that might be of interest. American Duchess has released two patterns inspired by the first season of Outlander. These are really pretty nice modest 18th century outfits. I've been watching the show recently and admiring all the costumes so I appreciate the existence of these patterns.

Of particular interest to me and my readers is the undergarments pattern, including some really lovely stays. There aren't nearly enough patterns for 18th century stays out there, and the ones that exist aren't very good, as I discovered last year. Moreover, the designer has promised a detailed series of tutorials on her blog on how to use the stays pattern with more historically accurate techniques to make really accurate and lovely stays.

Personally, I am thinking more and more about bringing steampunk aesthetics and philosophies to other time periods of costume and dress, and 18th century is very exciting to me right now between Outlander (which I watch almost exclusively for the costuming), Hamilton the musical (I'm super obsessed) and a French series of mysteries I've been watching called Nicolas Le Floch. So again, I have more ideas than time to make, but I'm thinking very seriously about some Rococo punk.