Studio, Garden & Bungalow

Mid-Century Modern Furniture: Robert Kjer Jakobsen, Designer for Virtue Brothers of California

noreply@blogger.com (Jen Orsini) — Thu, 05 May 2016 17:21:00 +0000

Mid-century modern furniture came in many affordable styles. I found this advertisement for a 1950s dining room set and it lead me to the designer, Robert Kjer Jakobsen who designed it in 1956 while working for Virtue Brothers of California. Virtue Brothers is well known for producing the iconic 50s formica and chrome dining sets, but lesser known was their transition into the sleeker Danish modern furniture styles that were popular after the middle of that decade.

The company produced steel and chrome or brass plated furniture for affordable dining sets. It was hugely popular in middle class homes, especially in the post WWII housing boom. This company was founded by brothers Julian and Philip Virtue who perfected their form of chrome plating in the mid-1920's and went on to grow their company by producing nickel plated furniture over the next decades, selling to businesses and schools, and later the US military during the war.

During the post war housing boom, Virtue Brothers became one of the major producers of metal and formica dining sets, becoming popular during that period. It was in 1950 that Julian would leave and form his own company that produced school furniture as the Vicro Manufacturing Company.

I found a second ad for the same set published that same year. It also gives great views of the furniture pieces, this one with a square table. Shapes in this dining set hint at that curving boomerang line which was so iconic for the 50's and early 60's.

The hutch also is influenced by the trend towards simple Danish modern design. It stood a little over five feet high and was nearly four feet wide and 20" deep in the hutch section. The shelf section is set back and only 14" deep. To create a tall look, the leggy silhouette has 12" long legs with metal tips. There are photos of a similar hutch that show detailed photos and blond formica shelving.

The table set is enameled and chromed or brass plated steel, forgoing the expense of imported Danish teak. Described as 'sculptured metal dining furniture', the table top and hutch shelves were wood grain formica.

The chair backs are accented by brass plated wires with textured vinyl cushions for easy cleaning in a busy household. The original design patent for this chair shows those details more closely.

The growing trend towards sleek Danish modern styled wood furniture was met in the designs by Robert Kjer Jakobsen who would design for the company from 1949 to 1985. He was more than just a product designer, creating work that was recognized for its design excellent and was featured in the "California Design" exhibition series sponsored by the Pasadena Art Museum during the 1960's and 1970's.

His design for a chrome and black director's chair shown here was featured in the 1968; "California Design Ten" exhibition catalog (page 46, as photographed above). This chair remains popular today and can be often found for sale.

A chrome and glass folding table by Jakobsen was featured in 1971; "California Design Eleven" (page 41) catalog. This shows a round glass table top with shiny tubular chromes steel base he designed to fold flat.

An example of how his work was accepted by the design community is a white dining set seen in photos of the Cliff May home: white table top and chairs with white vinyl upholstery on the back and seat cushions. Both chairs and table legs are black metal, the table has legs in the hairpin style.

A review of his design patents shows diverse styles over the years that he worked at Virtue Brothers, reflecting current trends as well as his own design sense.

The dining set here shows a back detail that was accented by contrasting brass details.

This popular model had jeweled details set into the back. It was available in many fashion colors.

By the mid-1960's Jakobsen was designing chrome chairs and tables that reflected a more graphic and linear quality that was gaining in popularity at that time. Often chairs like these were sold with black vinyl seat coverings

DESIGN PATENTS

The following is an overview of Jackobsen's various design patents that display his design diversity under the Virtue Brothers of California brand. The patent numbers can be found on the bottom labels of both the chairs and tables, and can be searched with Robert E. Kjer Jakobsen as inventor or by the number. I have grouped his designs here more by style than date:

In this article I have attempted to give credit to and link to sources for further research and acknowledgement. If I have omitted due sourcing or credit, please contact me so that I may correct that omission or error. It is my goal to provide only accurate information with full credit. As with all of my articles, this research is my own work, please credit me when using this information, thank you. Jen Orsini: Studio, Garden & Bunglaow

p.s.
There is a recent article on this brand that features the wonderful chrome director's chairs at Christa Pirl.

Origami Tote: Easy to Sew Furoshiki Inspired Bag

noreply@blogger.com (Jen Orsini) — Sun, 17 Jan 2016 17:37:00 +0000

This easy to sew tote bag is a wonderful furoshiki inspired shape. Loosely termed an 'origami bag', it's made from one length of yardage and has endless looks, depending on the fabric and handle used to make it. Origami totes have become popular, but how to make them is something of a mystery.

I first saw this remarkable small furoshiki bag shape years ago. I loved the way the little Japanese silk bag had ends that tie on top. Originally used to tie up a little lunch, it is a cute way to bundle up items to pop into a tote or purse.

Later larger versions like the one I show here started to appear in tote bag sizes. These were made in wonderful Japanese cottons and silks. Made quite simply from a length of fabric, it’s the folding that makes this tote unique.

Once I'd made a few, I realized that not only was this tote gorgeous, but it can be a fast and easy project, depending on how the seams are finished. I have put together a tutorial that I hope reveals the mystery of this folded bag for you. To start, I’d like to examine the folding method up close, so that when it comes to actually sewing up a bag, the process will go smoothly.

Folding Tutorial:

Cut a 9” x 3” rectangle of printed wrapping paper to use as a mock-up when you read this 3 step tutorial. Label your paper where needed and fold it as shown in the tutorial to create a little paper ‘tote’ shape. This paper tote can be referred to when it comes time to sew the bag, and it will help to show the directions of each fold as you work with the fabric tote.

Textile selection: What kind of fabric to use?

This tote is most often unlined, so the weight of fabric can vary from a silky crepe to a crisp linen. It is essential to use a stable, non-stretching woven fabric, and not a knit or stretch woven. I like home decor textiles or heavier fashion fabrics of linen or crisp cottons. Cotton quilting fabric can also be easily used to make a tote.

Here's a tote made from vintage Mexican striped cotton. Stripes are a great look because of the way this origami folding uses the fabric. The tutorial uses several linen stripes as well.

The Pattern: How do I cut the fabric?

This tote is made from a simple rectangle where the length is 3 times the width.

The length of the rectangle can be cut ‘on grain’ (in the direction of most stripes) or ‘cross grain” (helpful if you are short of fabric yardage). I suggest tearing the fabric across the grain to establish a true rectangular shape. For these tutorials I used the large tote fabric measurements. This is also the size used for a shoulder style tote.

Sizes:
Medium Tote: 45” L x 15” W
Large Tote: 60” L x 20” W

The medium size is easily torn cross grain from 45" wide fabric, and the large tote can be cut from 60" wide fabric. Both can be made from any textile if using the grain line or selvedge edge length. I have been known to piece fabric to get the long length as well and this doesn't seem to detract from the bag, as it tends to look intentional.

How to Make the Tote:

Step 1: Seams "A" and "B"

The folding tutorial above shows how to match up the edges to create the 2 seams in this project, seam “A” and “B”. With the fabric, now match up the "A" seamline starting at the lower point and smooth the 2 layers of fabric up to the straight edge. Pin the fabric together as shown.

The "A" and "B" seamlines should stop 1" below the upper edge of fabric. This fabric is left 'free' because it will be later folded over for hemming. Sew using a straight stitch from the lower fold point up to within 1” of the fabric top edge as show, and be sure to backstitch this end for a secure seamline.

Finish off the raw edge by pressing over 1/4" and using a zig-zag stitch as shown on this sample. This edge can also be overlocked for a clean finish.

Step 2: Finish the Edges

Press a ¼” hem around the pointed scarf top ends of the tote bag. Sew using a straight stitch or zig-zag stitch.

Start first at the inner "V" corner. As you work, continue along the hem, stopping to turn at the top corner point.

Step #3: Inner Corners:

Reinforce the inner corners by sewing a small box shape through all layers, or use zig-zag stitch set at the widest width and 0 stitch length to create a bar tack.

Step 4: Bag Bottom Corners

Working from the inside, lay the bag bottom flat so that seam “A” or “B” is along one edge, creating a corner. Measure about 4” across that corner point and sew, back stitch at each end.

Step 5: Bag Handle

There are different instructions for both fabric or leather handle.

Fabric handle: Cut 11" x 7" rectangle. This instruction creates a double fabric handle. First, fold over the rectangle down the center lengthwise with the good side of fabric inside. Sew off the ends, turn and press so it looks like a little, wide pillowcase. Turn under the raw edges 1/2" along the long opening end and press. Sew the opening closed by hand or by top stitching with matching thread. Fold the hemmed rectangle down the center lengthwise and pin the edges together to create a tube. Sew 1/4" from this edge using large stitches (heavier thread can be used here too). Be sure to tie off the thread ends so the stitching wont’t pull out.

If you are using denim or a heavy fabric that does not need to be doubled, cut the rectangle 11" x 4". Turn over all edges 1/2" and top stitch or zig-zag edges flat. Proceed the same as the leather instructions.

Leather handle: 10" x 3": Fold over down the center lengthwise to create a tub. Toptitch 1/4" from the long edge using a larger stitch and strong thread. Knot both ends before cutting.

Attach a safety pin to one pointed corner end, and draw that through the handle’s tunnel (this can be difficult). Once the safety pin has reached the other end, overlap both pointed bag ends and sew ‘back and forth’ securely. Pull this join back into the handle’s tunnel until it’s about mid-way.

Here are several examples of fabric and leather handles. I made the leather handles by using old leather skirts. This weight of leather can be sewn in a domestic machine, so it's easy to make.

Now the bag is complete.

Optional Sewing Methods

There are other ways to sew or bind off the raw cut edges of this bag:

1—Before starting the bag: Overlock or zig zag overcast the entire rectangle before sewing seams “A” and “B”. To finish the exposed edges, fold over ¼” and top stitch with zig zag or straight stitching. Reinforce the inner “V”.

2—Before starting the bag: 1/4” Hem top stitched around entire rectangle before sewing seams “A” and “B”. Reinforce the inner “V”.

3—Flat fell seams may also be used to clean finish seams “A” and “B”.

4—Add a Pocket: Before starting the bag, advanced sewists may want to insert a pocket on seam allowances for “A”. Do this in the same way side seam pockets in apparel are applied. Cut 2 square pocket shapes. Mark “A” seam allowance 4”-6” below the upper edge on both sides. Sew a square pocket shape into each “A” seam allowance at the mark. Pin seam allowances of “A” together and sew the entire length including around the pocket shape in the process.

Here's a last look at the small totes. The blue one is Japanese, made from kimono crepe. The ikat cotton version has cute tie tassles.

Epiphyllums: Jungle Flowers in a Drought Tolerant Garden

noreply@blogger.com (Jen Orsini) — Tue, 07 Apr 2015 04:34:00 +0000

Designing a low water landscape and using drought tolerant plants can be overwhelming if the yard is currently planted with water loving greenery and flowers. There is also the added question about climate and sunlight. What about a garden in dry shade? Is it possible to have color and plants in a shady yard when water is scarce? One colorful and exotic plant to consider are epiphyllums, whose colorful cactus flowers will fill a shaded yard or patio every spring.

Like exotic jungle birds, the brilliant blooms of epiphyllums are always surprising, glorious and dramatic. Too often low water, drought tolerant plants and landscapes are thought to be dull and colorless. The adaptable epiphulum can change all that. While they may also be called 'orchid cactus' these are low water cactus that prefer to live in the filtered light of a jungle setting. Shady and forested, with a warm environment, they are spreaders and climbers.

What I love about my epipyllums are their wonderful blooms, of course, but I also enjoy the added texture and linear chaos of their flat scalloped edged branches. When hung from a tree or high setting, these long trailing branches spill out of their pots in abundance. On the ground, in pots set high enough to support the plant above the ground, their branches wander off into the garden where their blooms hide for a unexpected splash of color. There are many branch styles, from narrow scalloped to wide and almost ruffled, they are thin and almost translucent in sunlight.

They completely disrespect the space of other plants, weaving in and out of the less flexible plants near by. They will even join a pot of succulents for a varied area of texture and color.

Weeding and tending these sprawling exotics can sometimes produce broken branches. As with geraniums and succulents, a broken epiphyllum is an opportunity to grow a new plant. Just by sticking the end back down into loose potting soil they will quickly root and form new growth. I like to mix mine up: scarlet with peach, pink with spikey red, these plants seem to grow on neglect and overcrowding.

This is one sad plant at the end of a hot, waterless summer. With hand watering, it will stay alive until even sparse winter rains revive it to bloom again in the spring.

Where did I get my plants?

All of the blooming plants you see here were started from branches given to me. If you don't see any in your friend's yards, you might want to try an Epiphyllum group. Most have sales and meetings where plants can be bought. There is a large sale at the Los Angeles County Arboretum in Arcadia every spring. There is information on the sale HERE and more about the Arboretum HERE.

How hard are they to grow?

I have found them to be very easy to grow. They prefer filtered sunlight, but I do have some that are out in the sun, where they get morning light and not hot afternoon sun. I have had the branches become sun burned, so I do know that they aren't tolerant of direct, hot mid-day sunlight. I water them about once a week in the summer, and much less (seldom) in the winter.

I plant in a generic potting soil or a mix from my cedar and redwood tree needles mixed with my leaf compost. All of my plants are in pots on the ground. Some are so large they are difficult to move. All tend to be in tall pots or set up higher on cinder blocks or other stands so that the trailing branches can 'spray' out from the plant center.

I get blooms in early spring when the weather warms up. Each bloom will last a few days, but the plant may continue for some time, weather permitting.

Read more about this great garden plant in this L.A. Times article.

It's Cactus Time: California Cactus Center

noreply@blogger.com (Jen Orsini) — Mon, 02 Feb 2015 17:57:00 +0000

This is the perfect season for a landscaping project with succulents, aloes and cactus, and the California Cactus Center is a good place to start. Whether a single planter like the one above is in your plan, or a larger grouping in the ground, finding inspiration within a garden setting can help to give any project focus, style and content.

The California Cactus Center in Pasadena, CA is a great place to wander around, taking in the almost overwhelming plant diversity, and the creative ways that these can be arranged in a yard. Planters are a popular way to create focus with texture, color and scale. They also allow the plants to be moved with the seasons, from a sunny but frost safe winter location to a filtered sunlight site for the hottest summer days.

There are examples of arrangements in the ground, filling in awkward spaces or little tight sites where smaller plants are perfectly at home.

More views of the Cactus Center, show additional inspiration along with how the nursery is organized in tables of smalls and the talls set around the perimeter. It's an awesome sight when you are thinking about water wise plants, but wondering what they will grow up into. You can select a few bits of small color to set along side more common cuttings from the gardens of friends and family to start your own collection.

Above are some of the best ideas I found there. I love the cactus landscape in small scale planted in a 'tray' built onto a flat. This is perfect for yards with sloping ground or difficult sñoil. The hanging ball is a real conversation piece to hang in a sheltered porch or patio.

Under the shade screens sit a huge variety of plants in a wide range of sizes. This is the core of California Cactus Center.

More about California Cactus Center:
Location & Hours: HERE
Gallery of Plants: HERE

How to Install a Simple Gray Water System

noreply@blogger.com (Jen Orsini) — Tue, 18 Nov 2014 00:50:00 +0000

Trying to capture gray water and transporting it out to the yard or garden can be a huge task, let alone a slow process. Although I'm no engineering expert, it seemed to me that there had to be a easier way, so I am sharing with you what I 'set up' at my house to divert water out to my garden.

I use a simple hose pipe system that the exhaust hose from my washer pours out into. This pipe then diverts the water out to plants within the length of my pipe, or additionally with the use of rain gutters to carry the water further. This is not a permanent system, so the hoses are removed from the garden after use.

For materials, my main element is a long, black flexible pipe (shown in these photos). After scouting my local big box hardware stores, I found that this item was not stocked (although since then I have spotted it at Home Depot). I ordered online a 4-in x 25-ft 70-PSI Corrugated Solid Pipe that was what I wanted. So far, this length has worked with my yard.

Materials:
Black corrugated hose/pipe: available in various lengths, and can be made longer
Rain gutter: any length required to carry water further to plant/tree
Wire: for 'handle' at top of pipe

To set up my pipe for installation, I punched 2 holes about 2" below the top edge on each side of the hose end, using an ice pick (heated over the stove flame).

Next I created a wire hanger that looks alot like a bucket handle using the 2 holes to fasten the wire to the pipe end (in this photo, this 'handle' shape looks slightly twisted).

The pipe needs to be hung near the original water outlet in the wall, so that the washer hose can be easily put into the pipe when in use. I also needed this to be easily removed after each use. Two large cup hooks were screwed to the bottom of overhead cabinet to hang the pipe from. Do not try lowering the washer hose below the level of the wall exhaust pipe.

When in use, the back door is open for the hose to exit the laundry area. It is layed outside at a level that is flat or 'going downhill' so water flows easily out to the yard.

To extend the distance, I use a few long rain gutters that seem to fit the pipe easily and don't need to be fastened or secured, as shown in the photo.

Laundry soap: I researched laundry products online and took my list to Wholefoods where I selected a brand recommended for gray water use. After using this product for about 6 months, I haven't seen any problems develop with the plants that receive this gray water. I sort our laundry and do not gray water any loads that might have cleaning chemicals or other harmful elements.

This method waters: camellias, citrus trees, pittosporum, random succulents in the flood plain, and a redwood tree.

Spring Cleaning: How To Wash a Rug

noreply@blogger.com (Jen Orsini) — Thu, 03 Apr 2014 16:49:00 +0000

Washing rugs used to be part of an old time Spring Cleaning ritual. How to wash a rug? Today this seems like an ancient concept, but after a long winter it can be pretty essential. A freshly washed rug will give your room a new start for spring.

Getting ready, have these items on hand:

vacuum cleaner
water bucket
garden hose with sharp nozzle
outside work surface
cleaning agents: Oxy Clean, Dr. Bronners liquid castile soap
scrub brush
2 saw horses, and/or plastic patio chairs

To get started, it's important to determine if this rug is a good candidate for washing. Most wool, cotton and especially synthetic rugs are fine with the process. If you have any concerns, try rubbing a white rag or old tee shirt saturated with cold water in a hidden corner of the rug. If it removes some color, you won't want to wash it.

Begin this project early on a sunny, warm day. First working inside, vacuum the rug to remove surface dirt. Turn it over and vacuum the back surface as well. Outside, prepare a working space that is flat, hosing off the surface until it is clean. Take the rug out to the work space and lay the rug out flat. Hose the rug off with a strong water stream until it is fully wet.

Prepare a bucket of cleaning agents. I dissolve a mixture of "OXI Clean" in about 4 cups of hot water, stirring until mixed well. I add this to a bucket of clear cold water. Next I add a small squirt of "Dr. Bronner's" liquid castile soap or other gentle soap to the water bucket. Even cheap hair shampoo will do. You want to avoid a heavy, soapy mixture that will be difficult to rinse out.

Next comes the part where you will need to get down on your knees and scrub the rug. Dip your scrub brush into the soapy water bucket then work the brush in the direction of the rug pile. Short pile surfaces such as the one you see here can usually tolerate this type of scrub brush. Loopy piles may require hand scrubbing only, using your fingers to work in the soapy mixture. You want to avoid shredding or frizzing the rug fibers.

Usually I clean only the nap side of the rug, but if you are cleaning up stains that have soaked through to the back, you may need to turn the rug over and scrub the back as well.

Using a strong water stream, hose off the suds and work out the soap. You may need to do rub the rug again by hand (or by walking barefoot over the rug to push out the suds). Work until the water runs clear.

To wring out the remaining water, roll up your rug and walk on it, pressing out the water. Smaller rugs might be fine if they are just pressed by hand.

The rug will need to be air dried on a support so that air can reach the back side and water can flow off. I have found that if I drape this over two saw horses, smaller rugs can be hung out to dry.

A larger rug like this needed additional support. I added 2 large plastic patio chairs under the ends to keep it off the deck surface to dry. I have also seen rugs hung over balcony railings to dry. Another tip is to suspend a strong broom stick between two chair seats or ladders to create a pole to drape the rug over.

At this point you may need to draft another strong body to help you lift your rug up and over the saw horses because a water saturated rug can be super heavy to move.

How long will the drying take? In hot, dry weather this can take a day or two, longer in other climates. When the rug is dry, take it back inside. It may need a good vacuuming to 'fluff up' the rug nap again if it has dried a bit stiff. Plastic bristle hair brushes also can be used to comb out a rug. BTW, hair brushes can be more effective than vacuuming in homes where pet hair seems to fill up the rugs.

I hope your efforts work out for you. Getting the dirt out can really improve a rug and give extend its use for years.

Taking a Look: Art Deco Bathroom Tile

noreply@blogger.com (Jen Orsini) — Sun, 23 Mar 2014 19:26:00 +0000

When designing a new Art Deco bathroom or remodeling an old one in a vintage style, looking at original tile work is always a plus. This vintage bathroom is in a bungalow home located in the hillside community of Tujunga, CA. The tiles here have an Art Deco color scheme, which brings this home's age into the 1920's era.

Looking down, the floor and lower walls appear to be the most dramatic part of this tile scheme. By bringing together yellow and a light lavender in both hexagon and square tiles there is a kinetic sense of design. Capped by a yellow linear edge, the large lavender wall field has a tiny medallion motif in line around the towel rack level.

Modern chrome legs on the original sink allow for the rich coloration of this tiny room to flow around two walls. In a nod to tradition, an original wood medicine cabinet sits to the left side of the sink. This and the upper walls are painted white, which is what was probably used originally.

Bathrooms such as this example that have had few modernizations are becoming rare. It's always a surprise to open a bathroom door to find a gem like this hidden away, waiting to inspire new ideas for bathroom remodels and new additions.

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Bathroom Remodel: Fixtures & Design Concepts

noreply@blogger.com (Jen Orsini) — Thu, 06 Mar 2014 15:22:00 +0000

Remodeling a bathroom in a vintage or older home requires a bit of sensitivity towards the existing structural design.

In my old house, c. 1914, the original bathroom was long gone, but with some research HERE into early bathroom design, I was able to get an idea of what I felt would work best for us in keeping with the existing visual context.

The first consideration was to create a sense of space in a very small room. This meant using fixtures that would help to 'open up' the room, especially floor space. Light is also an issue in this room, with only a typical bathroom window above the bath and under the shaded eves, the place is usually very shaded and dark. And finally it needed to have a good presentation, since the door is directly opposite another door leading into the dining room. The original space and my overall plan for it is shown HERE.

To open this space, I selected a Kohler set, Memoirs, using both the sink and matching toilet with an angular design style that is compatible with our craftsman home. This sink has wider margins around all edges, providing a bit of 'counter space' required for daily use. The toilet met our requirements for low water consumption along with more height than our previous style.

When it came time to choose the metal that would be seen throughout the room, I went with tradition and used shiny nickel, rather than brushed chrome or the current trend towards dark 'oiled brass' fixtures. Since both of the other metals are trending right now, it was a challenge to find the more traditional nickel sink faucet I wanted. The high arc design with lever handles was available through a Martha Stewart collection: Seal Harbor. Since the design of this collection looked custom made to go with the sink's angular style, I used this collection for the towel racks as well.

I planned to restore the home's existing cedar medicine cabinet and needed a wall fixture to install above that. I found a unique two lamp wall fixture from Academy that had a shade style that is slightly Art Deco in appearance. It is a departure from the many 'craftsman' style fixtures available on the market. There is a light fixture existing in the ceiling, so for this I found an all white small ceiling fan. The look was very bland, so I spray painted the metal elements silver, which made it more interesting and helped to compliment the existing fixtures I had already purchased.

Tile work was completed using a standard subway tile, Rittenhouse by Daltile, in traditional white with white grout. The floor is set with small hexagon tiles in glazed white with gray grout. I wanted painted walls, so the subway tiles were to be seen only in the shower area.

Color selection for the walls was key in helping to make it feel 'light' and 'open'. The white tiles are seen on the floors and shower area, but the remaining walls were not tiled. I chose a very light warm yellow for those walls. "Morning Light" by Sherwin Williams is one of the lightest yellow tints that I could find. I knew from previous experience that there would be strong reflection in this small room that would intensify whatever color paint was used. The existing five panel wood door and door frame were painted the same "Swiss Coffee" semi-gloss that I use through out the rest of the home. This white provides a great accent to the soft yellow.

This bathroom would not break any ground, design wise, but I was certain that by controlling the size of each element, color selection and metals used I would have a bathroom remodel that would be open, light and compliment an older home.

1920s: Vintage Bathroom Styles

noreply@blogger.com (Jen Orsini) — Sun, 08 Sep 2013 23:45:00 +0000

In researching a bathroom remodel, I found some vintage home magazines from the mid-1920's that show in great detail how well planned and decorative bathrooms had become by that time.

I am planning a facelift for the bathroom in my century old bungalow, and while the 1920's were more modern, there are so many ideas in these photos that could work in my small cottage. The sink with twin mirrors flanking the vanity mirror has nice fixtures along with details that we can use as inspiration today in our own homes.

This wall elevation reveals typical tile layouts that were used in homes during that time, and may be good for current projects in homes of this age, or where a 'vintage' bathroom look is wanted. The illustration also shows us wall sconces, an ornate vanity mirror, and pedestal sink.

Add caption

A full bathroom that has both shower and bath was also growing in popularity at that time. These double sets are still found in homes from the 1920's and 30's. The novelty of the built-in shower was balanced by the practical use of a bathtub alcove.

While current home decor trends lean towards the use of marble or granite in bathrooms, the tradition of tile has a strong appeal in the older home. There are so many decorative options with tile that are often forgotten today, and its nice to be reminded of how glamorous vintage bathrooms can be.

Linen Fabric & Sewing Supplies: Shopping in Paris

noreply@blogger.com (Jen Orsini) — Sun, 14 Jul 2013 18:16:00 +0000

The vintage look we associate as "French" can be difficult to locate in a big city like Paris, but tucked away on a neighborhood street is La Croix et la Manière, where linen fabric, embroidery suppies and other sewing related items are sold in a shop that seems to have come from another era.

Simple linen tea towels, fabric lengths and trims are rolled and tied in red and white string. Scissors hand along the wall. Little linen bags are laid out for viewing. Supplies are set into old tin tubs. It has so much charm and atmosphere that we can't help but buy some gorgeous linen to take back home. Before you leave this neighborhood, walk across the street to the red painted shop, Sensitive et Fils, 31 Rue Faidherbe Paris. It has wonderful Asian accessories and fashions, packed into a tiny shop space.

Where: 36 Rue Faidherbe, 75011 Paris, France
Hours: Tuesday through Saturday, noon to 7pm (12:00 - 19:00)
How to get there: Both the #9 'Olive' and #8 'Lavender' lines have stops within walking distance.

#8 'Lavender': Faidherbe-Chaligny stop. Walk up Rue Faidherbe, shop will be on the left side of the street.
#9 'Olive': There are three stops within walking distance:
Charonne (closest station): on Bd. Voltaire, walk 1 blk south to Rue de Charonne, turn right walk to Rue Faidhebe, turn left, it’s in this block on your left.
Rue des Boulets, walk N on Bd. Voltaire to little street on the left: Rue Chanzy, at Rue Faidherbe, it is on the right in that block.
Voltaire, walk south to Rue de Charonne where Rue Faidherbe starts.

If you want to know more about shopping for fabric in Paris, read my other blog post on the "Fabric Alley" district of Paris.

Paris Flea Markets: Two of the Best for Weekend Wandering

noreply@blogger.com (Jen Orsini) — Sun, 09 Jun 2013 05:41:00 +0000

I love to walk through the Puces de Saint Ouen flea market at Clingnancourt in the north end of Paris. It’s worth a morning’s trip up to that neighborhood to see this charming venue.

While I have to weave my way through the cheap modern fashion sellers along the street to get there, I keep my eyes for doorways leading into the ‘enclosed’ flea market areas.

Once off the street, the pace slows down as I wander the narrow lanes with little stalls and shops on both sides. Most stalls are like open air rooms, with a small awning in front to protect them from the rain (which is most often). Generally, vendors will set out small items on tables along the lane, but it’s fun to go inside to see their better pieces. I try to go early to beat the late sleeping crowds and see this market early in the day while they are setting up.

I have noticed that the stock there has changed to less expensive, smaller items in recent years. Maybe it’s due to travelers like me who can’t haul the bigger items home or ship them to another country. Lately there is a lot of vintage apparel, magazines and other home goods. But even so, it’s great to be rewarded by a well stocked furniture shop, where unusual and gorgeous furnishings, paintings and other items are displayed.

Where: north Paris, 18E,
140 rue des Rosiers, 93400 Saint Ouen, metro: Porte de Clignancourt

How:take the #4 metro north to the Clingnancourt stop at the end.
When you exit, follow the crowd as they cross the street, turn right and start walking towards the underpass and down the main street past storefronts and some street vendors. Look for signs and crowds.

Hours: Open Saturday, 9am to 6pm, Sunday 10am to 6pm, and Monday, 11am to 5pm.
Food: This section of Paris has a very random café and food selection. Bring your own snacks and plan to eat elsewhere.

Port de Vanves flea market

At the opposite end of Paris is another fun flea market that I enjoy. The Port de Vanves flea market is a great way to spend a Sunday morning in Paris when so many traditional venues are closed for the day. Walking outside, this open air market under the trees has a more simple and casual feel that the formalized flea markets at Puces de Saint Ouen. This one goes for several blocks along the sidewalk, under the shade of big trees in a residential neighborhood. Some of the vendors bring very random items, others have a narrow range of subjects, creating unexpected surprises.

Port de Vanves vendors set out their wares on tables, blankets or shelving laid out along both sides of the sidewalk. A few vendors have developed stall-like shops, but most of the sellers just pull up their car and set up along the sidewalk. The items here are more random and less edited, which means that there is a huge variety. I didn’t find many high value items or large pieces of furniture, but there could be more valuable items waiting to be found.

Where: Port de Vanves, 14E
Take the Port de Vanves station on Metro line #13 (light blue)
Exit station and follow crowd across the street.
Vendors are set up along Avenue Marc Sangnier and Av. Georges Lafenestre.
This is a neighborhood that is south of Boulevard Brune
When: Saturday and Sunday, 7:00am – 2:00pm

Food: across the street from the subway entrance are a few little cafes. I loved the couscous that I had at the ‘purple’ colored café there. Couscous is a warm and filling lunch that always seems to be the perfect meal when you are really hungry after wandering flea markets all morning.

Monet's Garden: Pathways of Gravel for Inspiration

noreply@blogger.com (Jen Orsini) — Fri, 24 May 2013 16:29:00 +0000

This view of Monet's garden in Giverny, France is from his bedroom window. Here is a wonderful look at how this famous garden is designed and laid out. Gravel pathways create a soft grid among the flower beds. These plantings are lush green with what seems to be random collections of floral color. There's nothing stuffy or mannered about this show of spring color.

Gravel lanes among the flowers that are most often edged in lush greenery, bursts of color, or simple sprinkles of delicate florals. Here are inspirations and ideas for our own garden paths and lanes.

At a time when 'hardscape' seems to have become a landscaping basic, it's lovely to see an old fashioned pea gravel 'softscape' where the natural garden shape has more emphasis than rigid edges and hard surfaces in walkways and open areas. This gravel pathway technique seems more natural and 'wild' and it's also perfect for breaking up larger gardens into more intimate settings.

Queen Bee: Trends in Home Accessories

noreply@blogger.com (Jen Orsini) — Thu, 17 Jan 2013 00:41:00 +0000

The Queen Bee motif is perfect for the gardener's home. It is a design that brings the garden inside and adds visual interest to any decor.

Honey bees in all forms are always in style, as you can see here. I have brought together some of the most interesting and fun uses of the bee motif as found online. When you look for accessories or gifts, consider the bee. It will display nicely with potted plants and vases of fresh flowers.

Sources:

1 white pillow with print: GraciousHome
2 foot stool: HomeDecorators
3 stencil: Artistic Stencils
4 mug: ThatWhichIsNot
5 framed print: MichaelEllisStudios
6 aqua bowl: CircaCeramics
7 metal Bee: RoadsideRubys
8 yellow striped bowl: CircaCeramics
9 Melamine plate: TheMadPlatters
10 silver metal Bee: BunnySundries
11 decoupage glass plate: Eclectic Paper Designs
12 door knob: KMadson

Laguna Beach and Heisler Park

noreply@blogger.com (Jen Orsini) — Tue, 20 Nov 2012 18:06:00 +0000

Laguna Beach has a wonderful park that is filled with gorgeous ceramic details. Heisler Park perched on a bluff over the ocean has a magical quality with the many detailed pieces of artwork that populate the landscape.

The ceramics on view are by a local couple, Scott and Naomi Schoenherr, who have created a unique and gorgeous series of sculptures and mosaics. Their use of mixed media includes cast bronze fish, swimming upstream through a pebble swirled eddy. Even the glazed seaweed seems to wave in the current. These scenes are set in the pavement, where children can bend down to touch the texture of each fish and waving seaweed.

The mosaics seem to flow through their cement stream, inspiring so many ideas for the garden at home. How can we create a similar feel in our own gardens (with easily found objects, of course). Why not a meandering pebble stream with a few medallions embedded into the cement as well?

These colorful gears are another touch that adds so much to the concept.
Even the drinking fountains and buildings are embellished with brightly glazed tile mosaics. It becomes a treasure hunt to find all of these wonderful elements scattered around the park.

This dramatic and huge gear piece sits in a garden setting with its rich green glaze and remarkable fish 'story' seen in the texture of the clay.

Walking around the park, we came out on a view of Shaws Cove to the north. With classic cliff homes scrambling up the steep hill side, it creates the air of a secret resort.

And finally, there are always the sea cliffs with palms framing our view south as we walk the rim pathway around Heisler Park.