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L’Officiel Hommes Germany 1, “Feel the Surface”

Meieli Detoni — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 21:41:09 +0000

The L’Officiel “Feel the Surface” editorial, styled by Marcus Zietz, explored the crossroads between men’s, unisex, and vaguely feminine designs. Heavy beading spruced up chiffon draping and shirts, too, and was paired with unusual pieces like lightweight jackets, button-down shirts, and heavier fabrics. After seeing so many fitted silhouettes, it’s nice to delve into a world where everything’s looser, more comfortable, and ready to be taken on a vacation… or at least worn when lounging. [via coute que coute]

Where the grass is greener

Simon Crompton — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 20:53:23 +0000

www.rugby.com

In style, the grass often seems that little bit shinier and slinkier on the other side of the fence. As the proverb suggests, however, that is merely a result of your vantage point.

The English want to be Italian. To them the Italian knows more, spends more and fits better into his clothes. It’s been a long time since brands proudly displayed on their labels that something was Made in Korea or Made in Taiwan. Now the location of production is hidden on an inside label unless, of course, it has been made in Italy.

Marks & Spencer has its Italian range, with the location of production proudly displayed on labels and advertising, and all against a deep red that suggests sophistication. Unfortunately for Marks, this wasn’t always true. The chain was successfully sued a few years ago when it emerged that pieces it claimed were made in Italy were actually manufactured in India and Egypt. Now the claim is that the pieces are of Italian design.

But while the English want to be Italian, Italians often want to be English. Or, at the least, English clothes and shoes inspire an idea of history and longevity, tradition and excellence. Go to Negri in Milan, a stalwart of the city’s sartorial establishment. It stocks Swaine umbrellas and Crockett & Jones shoes. Even the shirts are by Guy Rover (Italian company, English name).

It proudly claims that all its shoes are made in Northampton. But to people with only a passing interest in clothes (probably those that shop at M&S) Northampton is not synonymous with fine English shoemaking. It’s just another town north of London. Just like being made in Italy doesn’t necessarily mean quality, or sophistication, to an Italian.

Of course Americans want to be Italian and English, and few Italians or English want to be American. But there are brands that create a unique appeal to those on the other side of the Atlantic.

One of these is Ralph Lauren, and this brings me onto my second point about grass and its greenness. To a certain extent, foreign buyers are immune to the dilution of a brand that goes on at home. I am a big fan of Ralph Lauren here, but I’m sure if I lived in the US, and everyone I knew wore large, shapeless pony-branded polo shirts, that enthusiasm would be dampened.

Plus Ralph Lauren is sub-branded into so many categories in the US that the impression of quality suffers – alongside the Polo, Purple and Black labels there is Polo Jeans, Lauren by Ralph Lauren and even I believe Ralph by Ralph Lauren. A few years ago they launched another at the bottom of the scale, entitled Rugby. Unlike other brand divisions, such as Old Navy/Gap/Banana Republic, or Bershka/Zara/Massimo Dutti, the spread between Ralph Lauren’s top and bottom end is now so big that it’s hard for your opinion of the top end not to suffer.

So I am saved by my limited exposure to RL, only witnessing it in the beautiful Bond Street store.

The English equivalent may be Paul Smith, which while I am a big fan of, has an association with chavviness or laddishness in the UK (for readers in the US, this is the bottom end of the market). It has this association because of its sub-branding into Paul Smith, Paul Smith London, PS and Paul Smith Jeans. The brightly coloured t-shirts at one of the scale can’t help but affect your impression of the suits at the other.

Abroad, however, I know Paul Smith is very popular, and escapes this association. So the message should be, enjoy your view of the greener, slinkier grass on the other side. If you lived there it may well lose its luster.

Breitling Superocean 2010

Jeffrey Hyatt — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 19:53:38 +0000

Breitling has rejuvenated the design of the Superocean, the famous diver’s timepiece it launched in 1957; Breitling had already established itself as the official supplier to world aviation. The Superocean is equipped with an ultra-readable dial, an armored glass and a monohull case watertight to a depth of 200 meters (660 ft) – a remarkable feat at that time. Originally designed to equip professional and military divers, the original model quickly gained a following among enthusiasts in the booming field of leisure diving.

Breitling is now updating the legendary collection by debuting a Superocean with an entirely revamped design. The new dial colors are Abyss Black, Abyss Silver, Abyss Blue, Abyss Red and Abyss Yellow; the watch size remains 42mm. The Superocean collection features a rubber or steel bracelet option, Breitling’s Caliber 17 self-winding movement, over-sized Superluminova hands and hourmarkers and water-resistant to 1,500 m. The Superocean is on display at the annual Baselworld trade show in Switzerland. [via selectism]

hobo x Koyuk Double Wing Deck Shoes

Meieli Detoni — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 00:59:57 +0000

Deck shoes? Don’t wait until you’re oceanside to toss on a pair of these shoes, a product of a collaboration between hobo and Koyuk. These creative double wing shoes take advantage of the natural hemp texture, complete with a straw sole. Made in Spain, the shoes are available in several cool colorways. You’ll find the Hobo logo embossed onto the rich leather part of the shoe. [via high snobiety]

Cav-000 Spring 2010

Meieli Detoni — Thu, 18 Mar 2010 18:56:01 +0000

CAV-000 developed their spring 2010 lookbook with a rocker model who complements their looks to a t. A slightly loose fit adds a touch of devil-may-care attitude to a collection of separates with monochromatic leanings. Tighter jeans, a fitted coat, and a three-piece suit are some of their most successful pieces, oozing both low-key appeal and a touch of reckless dressing. Long hair is the perfect accessory. [via the fashionisto]

New Super Flat Shades at Ssense

Meieli Detoni — Thu, 18 Mar 2010 02:03:36 +0000

There are a variety of new Super Flat Top Sunglasses currently available at Ssense, and in a bunch of different colors and slightly tweaked styles. The Ciccio Flat and the Flat Top Yellow are the boldest of options, but they also have a plain black and a dark brown tortoiseshell pair as well. These will probably replace your Wayfarers for a while, later remaining a shade in the top rotation of your collection. [from $139 at ssense]

The Palace By Jean Dunand

Jeffrey Hyatt — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 22:41:15 +0000

At the heart of the Jean Dunand Palace is a flying tourbillon; on either side, two oval-shaped tracks are reminiscent of the legendary Milwaukee Mile racing circuit. The left track indicating GMT makes two passes: when the disc reaches the end, it flies back to the top and the arrow rotates 180 degrees to chart the other scale. On the right, a 72 hour power reserve indicator mirrors the GMT.

Recalling Charlie Chaplin’s classic film, Modern Times, visible bridges and wheels are visual clues to the Industrial Revolution. A winding mechanism communicates its power to the barrel via a tiny chain with minuscule tensioner, designed to evoke the chain of vintage motorcycles. Providing structure to the movement are rigid plates suggesting the reinforcement of a cast-iron structure supported by ten tiny pillars. The movement is larger than most complete watches, so the case is a generous 48mm by 49mm providing ample spaciousness. [via hodinkee]

Supra NS 2010 Spring Collection

Meieli Detoni — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 21:29:28 +0000

It feels like we haven’t visited Supra in a while, so we’re getting that stitched up right now. The Supra NS 2010 Spring Collection will appeal to more than just Supra fanatics, with the primarily monochrome colorway and expected white or black vulcanized outsole trim. With black laces, the Cuttler (top) is clean and minimal in fullgrain leather, while the Supra Strapped 2 heads off on a more contemporary route. For lower lines, the Assault is waiting with a vulcanized outsole and a trad low top design. [via hypebeast]

The basted fitting: how it works

Simon Crompton — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 20:09:15 +0000

After you’ve been measured for a bespoke suit, the next stage is the basted fitting. This may be anywhere from three weeks to three months after the initial appointment, depending on the business of the tailor and – frankly – his attitude to taking on new work. Some tailors work harder when there’s more business; others take on more staff; some just let the time between fittings drag out.

In those three weeks, the cutter that measured you up will have cut a series of paper patterns approximating the pattern of your suit – front and back panels, sleeves, collar and trousers. He will then either have cut out the wool himself – by laying a pattern onto two layers of the cloth – or given it to a ‘striker’ to do so.

A basting tailor will then roughly sew all the pieces together. The lines are not rough, but the stitches are long and loose, so that after your basted fitting they can be ripped out and the cloth re-cut.

Putting on a basted jacket is a slightly odd feeling. It doesn’t look anything like the suit you envisaged. It has no structure, has white stitches running all over it and, perhaps most distractingly, only has one arm. Do not panic, pout or demand your money back. The basted fitting is all about fit, not style.

If your tailor is any good, he will spend most of his time looking and marking, rather than asking questions. He’s analysing how the cloth falls across your back, deciding than one or other shoulder has to be a little lower, that there is too much drape under the arm or that the collar has to be higher. Alterations will be chalked on, for the guidance of his shears later on.

From your point of view, consider the elements of fit you can see. Is the one sleeve that you do have too long or too short? Express your feelings on the matter. The tailor will have pinned the front of the jacket closed at the waist – does this feel too tight or too loose? Remember to move a little (when he is not about to pin or chalk you). A jacket should be comfortable when you are walking and stretching, not just standing still. It is not made of lycra.

The same goes for the trousers. Give your opinion on the length, then try sitting down. Cloth can be taut but should not constrain. Let them sit naturally on your waist, do not hike them up or down.

In my opinion, there are really only two options on the waist – either it sits above your hip bone or in its hollow. The first will probably require braces. This is the traditional height, will be around the same place as your waist button on the jacket and is better with pleats (to flow out and over those hip bones). As it will be on the middle of your stomach, it is also more comfortable with braces – braces allow the waist to be a good inch wider than normal, as tension is not required to keep them up.

The second position is what 99% of young men wear today. Not slack, not drooping halfway down the bottom but sitting across the hips and definitely below the stomach. As I said, though, the most important thing is that the position feels natural to you and does not alter as you move around the fitting room. If it does change, the length will be ruined – and that is the part of a pair of trousers most constantly on display.

Next, the forward fitting.

Cult of Personality Editorial

Meieli Detoni — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 01:25:45 +0000

The Cult of Personality editorial is inspirational enough to push you to dress up your separates and get fresh with knits and twills. Styled by Jeremy Myers for Florida International, this editorial makes you want to hunt down a sweater vest, try it with jeans, and have a moment with lightweight cardigans before your time completely runs out. Look for cotton-blend shirts with faded jeans and brogues. [via modeman]

Cartier Caliber Collection 2010

Jeffrey Hyatt — Tue, 16 Mar 2010 23:10:07 +0000

The new Cartier Caliber Collection features the first self-winding mechanical movement crafted entirely by Cartier: the calibre 1904 MC. Consider this a move forward that testifies to the priority Cartier gives to developing its own movements, based on research. Striking a nice balance between power and finesse, the Calibre de Cartier watch is exceptionally comfortable to wear. The bezel that embellishes the case plays on contrasts: polished on the exterior, it becomes increasingly dynamic as it approaches the case.

A 28 degree free-fall towards the dial culminates in a fluted ring marked with 120 notches. The dial offers a virile reinterpretation of both the Cartier watchmaking codes and Roman numerals. A transparent sapphire crystal case back reveals the calibre 1904 MC. The Calibre de Cartier arrives in April, starting at $6500. [via acquire]

Common Projects Leather Tote

Meieli Detoni — Tue, 16 Mar 2010 20:23:40 +0000

Selectism found a tote bag with a classic shape over at C. Store, but this find has the one-up on most totes: it’s constructed with heavy-duty outer shell that will last and last. Forget canvas and go for a bag that’s just as practical, but that you won’t need to replace quickly– and that won’t spring a hole as easily. Finished in leather and easy to wear with dress shoes or casual kicks of your choice. [via selectism]

StyleCrave.com - Passionate about Style

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