The odds that I would ever have had the opportunity to try surfing (and fall in love with it forever) were stacked against me.

I am the eldest son of a university professor and a high school teacher.

As far back as I can remember, I have lived surrounded by books. 

Hundreds of them, scattered throughout the house, from the dining room to the study, from the bedrooms to the entrance hall.

To make matters even more unlikely, both of my parents are published authors.

I certainly cannot say that they embodied the old saying: "A sound body in a sound mind."

I rarely saw them play sports. In fact, I do not remember ever seeing them run, swim, play tennis, or take part in any other sport.

They were always intellectuals, and all the emphasis was placed on exercising the mind.

As a result, sport was something I only discovered at school, since Physical Education was a compulsory subject from the 5th to the 9th grade.

I was fortunate enough to have some talent both for subjects that required intellectual effort and for a variety of sports.

I have always loved the water, too. I learned to swim out of necessity, like many children my age, but later also for enjoyment, pleasure, and fun.

I spent my pre-teen and teenage years largely during the 1980s.

At the time, you could count on your fingers the number of surfboards you saw on Portuguese beaches, whether in winter or summer.

The few memories I have are of Styrofoam boards that resembled a hybrid model somewhere between a bodyboard and a surfboard.

Some of these models even had a kind of fin setup. They were relatively inexpensive but very fragile.

I doubt that, before getting my first surfboard, I had ever actually seen someone surfing in front of me.

Surfing in Portugal is a very recent phenomenon, perhaps also because democracy only replaced the dictatorship in 1974, and the importation of foreign products began relatively late.

Fate made me a surfer for life

I started surfing by chance. It was pure coincidence.

During a break between classes, one of my best friends showed me a copy of a Brazilian surf magazine called Fluir.

He wanted to show me how incredible it must be to experience this sport - surfing.

The images were amazing. You could see lines of perfect waves with a human being riding them.

Because they were photographs, they left plenty of room for our imagination. "How would that wave end?" I would ask myself.

I remember becoming obsessed with surfing. Mind the common place, but it was really like an incoming wave growing inside my brain.

My friend eventually bought a second-hand Mike Davis surfboard from the only store that sold related products.

It was a windsurfing shop called Top Sport.

When I saw my friend with his new toy, I decided that I wanted one too. I wanted to dream of being featured in surf magazines and living that incredibly cool lifestyle.

I spoke to my parents.

Unfortunately, they were not very enthusiastic. I think they suspected it might be dangerous and impractical. After all, it is not like carrying a tennis racket.

Of course, if I had asked for a collection of books, they probably would have gladly bought it for me.

All roads lead to Rome

But fortunately, I did not give up.

There was another possibility of getting my first surfboard. What if I earned the money to buy it? Would they stop me from doing so?

Fate had already decided that I would learn to surf and continue surfing until the end of my days.

When I finished the school year, I was informed that I had been the top student in the parish where I lived.

In other words, I received the highest grade in every subject. The grading scale up to the 9th grade ranged from 1 to 5.

The result was the best I could have hoped for: a check.

The amount gave me the kind of financial freedom that allowed a 12- or 13-year-old boy to dream about the world.

My parents immediately realized that they had won a battle - the first one - but lost the war.

It would have been difficult to explain to me that I could not do whatever I wanted with the money I had earned through my own effort, sweat, and… homework.

I could hardly believe it. I was going to buy my first surfboard!

And so I did. The Mike Davis 6'2" available in the store was finally mine!

I was also able to get my first block of wax - it smelled amazing! And a short wetsuit - without sleeves or legs - from the French brand Piel.

Grateful for earning it the hardest way

Nowadays, I must admit, I am glad it happened that way.

Something always feels more rewarding when you have worked to achieve it yourself rather than having it handed to you on a silver platter.

At least when it comes to certain objects that become special to us and that we carry with us throughout our lives.

And then I taught myself how to surf. I still remember the day I first stood up on a surfboard as if it were yesterday.

The indescribable feeling of yet another personal achievement is priceless.

Moreover, as someone who has been nearsighted all my life and went into the ocean seeing very poorly, with everything blurred and out of focus, it was undoubtedly a memorable milestone in my life.

Surfing educated me and helped shape me as a person. It connected me to Nature, to the protection of beaches and oceans, and gave me a confidence I had never had before.

The shy and reserved boy I once was opened himself to the world and challenged it.

Surfing continued to transform my adult life, and even today, I use it to help change lives for the better.

Being a good student paid off, of course. That is why I recommend being the very best we can be at school.

And that is a lesson for surfing and for life. The rest we leave to fate and to the inevitabilities of our short journey across this planet.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

If you're familiar with tube riding and barrels - small or big hollow ones - the next step is backdooring them.

The move involves taking off deep behind the peak, often beneath a section that already appears to be pitching over, and slipping straight into the barrel.

Done correctly, it allows a surfer to enter the tube almost instantly and emerge on the shoulder while everyone on the beach wonders how it was possible.

The term comes from entering the barrel through its "back door" rather than approaching it from the open face.

The name is also linked to the famous North Shore of Oahu wave known as Backdoor, a shallow right-hand reef break that shares a peak with Pipeline.

There, surfers often take off from a critical position and disappear into a tube almost immediately after standing up.

But here, we're mastering the art of backdooring a wave anywhere in the world, be it in Hossegor, Supertubos, Lower Trestles, or Margaret River.

What makes a backdoor ride different?

In a conventional barrel ride, a surfer takes off on a more open section of the wave and works into the tube as it forms. A backdoor entry reverses that sequence.

The surfer starts deeper, closer to the spot where the lip is already beginning to throw.

Instead of racing down the line to catch the barrel later, they aim to enter the hollow section immediately.

It's an approach that is especially useful on fast, hollow waves where the barrel forms so quickly that a traditional takeoff leaves little chance of making the section.

Many reef breaks and steep sandbar waves reward this deeper positioning because the tube appears almost as soon as the wave stands up.

A-frame waves in beach breaks are also great for trying out this advanced surfing maneuver.

But it's not easy. You'll need to fine-tune the timing and read the wave well.

Position yourself too deep, and the lip will pitch directly onto your head. Sit too far from the peak, and the barrel runs away without you.

Reading the wave

Backdooring starts long before the takeoff.

A surfer must identify a wave that will hollow out rather than collapse into a closeout. The best candidates are powerful waves with a defined peak and a lip that throws forward cleanly.

Many surfers look for a wedge-shaped section where different lines of swell combine to create extra thickness and curvature.

In these situations, it is often possible to paddle to the far side of the wedge and angle into the hollow section near the apex of the wave.

Wave reading becomes the most important skill.

You need to know where the lip will begin pitching, how quickly the section will run, and whether there will be an opening at the end of the ride.

The decision happens in seconds or maybe less.

The deep takeoff

A backdoor takeoff can feel uncomfortable even for experienced surfers.

The wave face is often already steepening when the surfer commits.

Instead of paddling straight toward shore, the board is angled down the line toward the direction of the breaking wave.

It's a technique that helps the surfer match the speed and direction of the section they hope to enter.

You're "knifing" into the wave. The board drops into a steep face while the lip begins to fold overhead.

Hesitation usually ends the ride before it starts.

The pop-up must be quick and clean. Once on their feet, surfers immediately engage the rail and establish a line beneath the pitching lip.

Inside the green room

The moment after takeoff is where backdooring becomes barrel riding.

The surfer compresses into a low stance to lower the center of gravity and maintain stability. Frontside surfers often use the classic pigdog position, grabbing the outside rail while crouching beneath the lip.

Speed management becomes critical. Contrary to popular belief, the goal is not always maximum speed.

Sometimes the surfer needs to slow slightly to stay inside the tube. Small adjustments with the rail, a trailing hand, or subtle body movements help maintain the correct position.

Some surfers lightly drag a hand, arm, or thigh against the wave face to create resistance and act as a brake, preventing them from outrunning the barrel.

Vision matters as much as technique.

Experienced tube riders rarely stare at the collapsing lip. Instead, they focus on the opening ahead, often called the "dog door."

Looking toward the exit naturally guides body position and line choice.

Surviving the foam ball

Starting deep often means encountering the foam ball.

The turbulent mass of whitewater forms inside the barrel as the lip impacts the wave face. It can either help push a surfer forward or knock them completely off balance.

The key is staying compact and flexible. Bent knees work like shock absorbers, allowing the surfer to absorb sudden bumps and changes in speed.

Large body movements usually create instability. Small corrections are far more effective.

A surfer who maintains speed and control through this chaotic section often finds the wave opening again on the other side.

Step by step: how to backdoor a wave

Ready to backdoor a barreling wave? Here's a simple tutorial on how to do it:

1. Choose a fast, hollow wave with a clearly defined peak and a barrel section that appears likely to stay open;
2. Position yourself deeper than normal, close to where the lip will begin pitching:
3. Angle your board down the line rather than straight toward the beach:
4. Commit to the late drop as the wave stands up beneath you;
5. Pop up immediately and set your rail;
6. Stay low and establish a clean line beneath the lip;
7. Use subtle speed adjustments through rail control or hand drag if necessary;
8. Keep your eyes focused on the opening ahead rather than the collapsing section;
9. Remain compact when passing through turbulence or the foam ball;
10. Continue driving toward the shoulder until the barrel releases you into open water;

Commitment, baby

Backdooring is often described as an advanced maneuver, though many experienced surfers argue the technical movements themselves are relatively straightforward.

The real challenge lies in the commitment required. The surfer must trust a section that appears, at first glance, impossible to make.

They must paddle toward a breaking lip rather than away from it. They must make decisions before the shape of the wave is fully revealed.

When everything aligns, the reward is one of surfing's most memorable experiences.

The barrel is already standing when the surfer enters, the walls wrap overhead, and the exit appears as a bright opening down the line.

For a few seconds, the entire ride takes place inside that moving room of green water.

And it's so beautiful and mesmerizing.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Despite education, knowledge, technology, and the supposed evolution of Humankind, the figures around death by drowning are not going down, by any means, at the pace they should.

The truth is, drowning remains one of the world's most persistent and overlooked public safety problems.

According to the World Health Organization (WHO), nearly a quarter of a million people die from drowning every year worldwide.

About 82,000 of those deaths involve children between the ages of 1 and 14. The tragedy is that most of these deaths are preventable.

To put things into perspective, in a small country like Portugal, 57 people lost their lives to drowning in the first five months of 2026.

Compared to previous years, the tragic numbers are not going down. On the contrary.

Sadly, drowning is not a rare accident.

It happens in oceans, rivers, lakes, swimming pools, harbors, canals, and even in very small amounts of water.

It often occurs quickly and without the dramatic cries for help seen in movies.

Health authorities, including the WHO, UNICEF, and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), all stress the same point: prevention is the most effective lifesaving tool.

So can we all do something to bring these numbers down?

We can. Here are a few actions we could demand of ourselves and the authorities that rule our hometown, region, and country.

The silent nature of drowning

One reason drowning remains so deadly is that many people do not recognize it when it happens.

A person in trouble may be unable to call for help because breathing becomes the body's immediate priority.

Children can slip beneath the surface without attracting attention. In many cases, there is little noise and very little splashing.

Drowning can unfold in seconds.

The CDC notes that it is often silent, while UNICEF warns that young children can drown very quickly when supervision lapses.

For surfers and swimmers, it's a reality that matters.

A crowded beach does not automatically mean safety. Hundreds of people may be nearby, yet a struggling swimmer can still go unnoticed.

Have you thought about that?

Why beaches need more lifeguards

Lifeguards are one of the most effective defenses against drowning. They identify dangerous conditions before beachgoers notice them.

They monitor swimmers, respond rapidly to emergencies, and educate visitors about hazards such as rip currents, shorebreak waves, changing tides, and submerged obstacles.

Many of the world's busiest beaches are only partially staffed, staffed seasonally, or left without lifeguard coverage during parts of the day.

Yet popular beaches often attract visitors throughout the year, especially in regions with warm climates and active surf cultures.

Year-round lifeguard patrols should be considered a public safety priority at heavily visited beaches.

The presence of trained professionals can reduce response times when emergencies occur and can help prevent dangerous situations from developing in the first place.

A rescue carried out within moments can make the difference between a close call and a fatality.

For surfers, lifeguards often become an additional layer of protection in environments where currents, large surf, and changing weather can rapidly increase risk.

Think about high surf zones like the North Shore of Oahu or Nazaré.

Learning to swim is a lifesaving skill

Swimming ability remains one of the strongest protections against drowning.

The CDC reports that formal swimming lessons can reduce drowning risk among children and young adults.

UNICEF also highlights swimming education as one of the most important prevention measures for school-age children.

Learning to swim does not make anyone invincible. Strong swimmers can still be caught in rip currents or become exhausted in rough conditions.

Even so, water competency provides essential skills that improve survival chances when something goes wrong.

With surfers, confidence in open water should include more than board skills. Understanding currents, wave behavior, floating techniques, and self-rescue strategies can be just as important as catching waves.

Several high-profile surfers have lost their lives in the ocean.

Supervision saves lives

Across many drowning incidents involving children, a common factor appears again and again: a brief break in supervision.

Health agencies consistently recommend close and continuous supervision whenever children are near water.

Adults should avoid distractions such as phones, conversations, alcohol, or other activities that take attention away from the water.

The assumption that someone else is watching can be dangerous.

Beaches, pools, lakes, and rivers often contain many adults, yet responsibility can become unclear. Effective supervision works best when one person is clearly focused on watching the water.

It's a principle that applies to surfers and adults as well. Lastly, friends should keep track of one another, especially in unfamiliar locations or challenging conditions.

Respect the ocean, rivers, lakes, and any body of water

Natural bodies of water present risks that do not exist in swimming pools.

Rip currents can pull swimmers away from shore. River currents may be stronger than they appear. Sudden drop-offs, submerged rocks, cold water, poor visibility, and rapidly changing weather can all contribute to emergencies.

The CDC notes that nearly half of fatal drownings among people aged 15 and older occur in natural waters such as oceans, lakes, and rivers.

Checking local conditions before entering the water should be as routine as applying sunscreen.

Surfers often study forecasts, tides, and winds before paddling out. Recreational swimmers can benefit from adopting the same habit.

Choosing beaches with lifeguard coverage and swimming in designated areas adds another important layer of safety.

Life jackets are still underused

Life jackets remain one of the simplest and most effective drowning prevention tools.

The CDC recommends wearing properly fitted life jackets during water activities, particularly while boating and in situations where conditions may change unexpectedly.

Many drowning victims never intended to enter the water.

Boat accidents, sudden weather changes, slips, and falls can place people in dangerous situations with little warning.

A life jacket can keep a person afloat long enough for rescue or self-recovery.

Alcohol and water are a dangerous combination

Alcohol contributes to many drowning incidents around the world. It affects judgment, balance, coordination, and reaction time.

People may overestimate their abilities, underestimate hazards, or make poor decisions about where and when to enter the water.

The WHO highlights alcohol use as a factor in many drowning scenarios, while the CDC advises avoiding alcohol before and during swimming, boating, or supervising children.

The ocean does not become more forgiving after a few drinks. It becomes less predictable because the person entering it is less prepared.

Knowing what to do in an emergency

Prevention is the goal, but preparation matters too.

UNICEF encourages parents and community members to learn CPR and basic rescue skills. Immediate action during the first minutes of an emergency can improve survival chances.

Experts also advise caution when attempting a rescue. An untrained person who enters the water can become a second victim.

Whenever possible, it is safer to reach or throw a flotation device to the person in distress while calling for professional help. UNICEF summarizes this idea with a simple message: "throw, don't go."

At beaches, the fastest response often comes from nearby lifeguards, another reason why professional patrols are so important.

Actions authorities can take

Before learning about the things you, dear reader, can do to stay safe in any body of water, let's take a look at a few quick actions you should demand from your authorities to prevent drowning.

• Provide year-round lifeguard patrols at busy beaches and other popular swimming areas;
• Increase lifeguard staffing during holidays, weekends, and periods of large surf or heavy visitation;
• Install clear safety signs that explain local hazards such as rip currents, strong tides, submerged rocks, and sudden drop-offs:
• Create designated swimming zones separated from boats, jet skis, and surf areas when appropriate;
• Invest in public swimming and water safety education programs, especially for children;
• Ensure rescue equipment such as flotation rings, rescue tubes, and emergency phones is available at high-risk locations;
• Improve public alerts for dangerous ocean, river, and lake conditions;
• Collect and analyze drowning data to identify high-risk areas and guide prevention efforts;
• Require life jackets in appropriate boating and water recreation settings;
• Promote CPR and first aid training within local communities;

Actions individuals can take

Now, it's time to see what you could do to protect yourself and your loved ones. It only takes a minute.

• Learn how to swim and improve overall water competency;
• Swim at beaches and locations that are patrolled by lifeguards whenever possible;
• Check the weather, surf, tide, and water conditions before entering the water;
• Learn how to recognize and escape rip currents;
• Keep children under constant, close supervision near any body of water;
• Avoid alcohol and drugs before swimming, surfing, boating, or supervising others;
• Wear a properly fitted life jacket when boating or in risky water conditions;
• Never swim alone in remote areas;
• Stay within your skill level and avoid challenging conditions beyond your experience;
• Learn CPR and basic water rescue techniques;
• Enter unfamiliar rivers, lakes, and beaches cautiously, paying attention to currents, water depth, and underwater hazards;
• Call for help immediately if someone appears to be in distress, and use flotation devices rather than attempting a risky rescue;

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

When I landed in Fuerteventura in the Canary Islands, I felt as if part of my existence had returned to its original sacred home.

I had never been on this stunning, dormant volcanic island ruled by the Kingdom of Spain before.

So the feeling was as brutally intense as the lava fields and the trillions of dark rocks of all sizes that cover most of an island whose last eruption occurred approximately 4,000 to 5,000 years ago.

There is something truly fascinating and emotional about the marriage between the arid desert land and the turquoise-blue water that gently touches long strips of white sand here and there around the island.

On my way from the airport to the south of Fuerteventura, I was left stunned and mesmerized by the raw, violent force that Mother Nature imposed on this Atlantic paradise.

The bus that made the connection to the hotel had me jumping from the seats on the left to the ones on the right, as I stared, blessed by the opportunity, at the Universe's creations: the sleepy volcanoes and the brutality of the endless plains that surround these giant mountains.

Fuerteventura emerged from the ocean almost 20 million years ago, with its formation beginning much earlier, in the depths of the ocean, over 100 million years ago.

It is the oldest island of the Canarian archipelago.

Fuerteventura 1, doomscrolling 0.

I feel as calm and at peace as this wonder of Nature.

A desert that is never nothing

I wonder why desert landscapes like this hit my soul and body the way they do. They instantly turn my brain into reflection mode.

The bus makes its way south at a good pace.

Suddenly, the asphalt road is the only civilized touch in the vicinity - there are immense sand dunes on both sides, and I cannot resist checking Google Maps.

Yes, a massive sand plain rules over the island from the northwest to the southeast of Fuerteventura.

It's like nothing my eyes have ever laid on; beauty in a dreamy state. Sand dunes like those you may only see in the movies.

Fuerteventura reminds me of a place I have never been or thought existed. My very first thought was of Mars.

Everything looks like Mars on Earth, colonized, here and there, vaguely, by the last of us.

I saw single houses surrounded by just rocks and dark dust.

And as the bus was getting closer to the tip of Fuerteventura, I was swiftly invited to release a "Oh, my God..." to the collection of gorgeous blue shores where the wind was grooming the gentle, incoming swell.

A camper van by a perfectly peeling wave with nothing but water in the lineup. No surfers, no humans, no robots. Just the pure essence of surfing.

The wind patterns in Fuerteventura are well-known to watersports people. This sort of European Hawaii is the go-to destination for many windsurfers and kitesurfers.

But surfing rules this realm, too.

Here's why. Fuerteventura lies directly in the path of the relentless Northeast Trade Winds (Alisios).

Driven by the Azores High, these winds blow consistently year-round from the North-Northeast (NNE), keeping the island's climate pleasantly moderate.

They accelerate naturally as they flow over the ocean and channel across the island, typically bringing a refreshing breeze that averages 17 to 25 mph (15 to 22 knots).

Sea breezes are driven by the island's temperature.

As the land heats up during the day, warm air rises and draws in cooler, denser air from the ocean, strengthening the overall wind speed.

Good luck, sailor

The island's name is misleading, though. Many people incorrectly translate "Fuerteventura" as strong winds.

Although yes, it can be quite windy, it's a compound formed by the Spanish words "fuerte" ("strong" or "fort") and "ventura" ("fortune"), meaning wealth, luck, or destiny, or a reference to a "Great Fortunate" or lucky land.

After leaving my bags at rest in the hotel room, I ran toward the veranda that overlooks the multiple blue hues that make up this painting called the sea.

To the right, I observe a few waves bending to the elegant curvature of the shoreline and breaking as if calling for me.

In the last 60 minutes, I witnessed the ocean being blasted by wind, forming an army of white horses, the shore waters groomed by offshore breezes, and sideshore wind gusts agitating the water's surface as the sunset fell on the opposite side of the coast.

In some islands, we are fortunate to witness offshore becoming onshore and turning offshore again at the blink of an eye, or, should I say, at the rolling of basalt rocks down the volcanic slopes.

Somewhere between Africa's west coast and this Spanish desert island, my soul awaits the swell that turns these words into a memorable experience blessed by exotic wind patterns.

Because it's the invisible, transparent but touchy force that generates the spectacle that I gaze at.

A tí, Fuerteventura.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

One of the first images that comes to mind when we hear the word Waikiki is clear waters, white-sand strips, hotels, and tall buildings.

However, the Waikiki of today is rather different from Oahu's South Shore location of the 18th and 19th centuries.

Development and tourism conquered Waikiki, but Honolulu's iconic neighborhood still holds some of the charisma of the early 1900s.

It's one of the few places on Earth where surfing is part of a continuous cultural tradition stretching back centuries.

Some of the most interesting stories are hidden beneath the tourist image of beach umbrellas and surf schools.

Let's dig into some of the most relevant historic chapters in Waikiki's surf culture history.

Waikiki was surfing's original global capital

Long before California, Australia, or the North Shore of Oahu became surf icons, Waikiki was the place that introduced much of the world to surfing.

Early visitors in the 1800s described Hawaiians riding waves standing upright on wooden boards, something many Western observers had never seen before.

One of the first was Captain James Cook, who witnessed ancient Hawaiian chiefs and royalty regularly surfing here.

Hawaiian royalty surfed these exact waves

Surfing in Hawaii wasn't originally a casual beach activity. It was tied to status, spirituality, and skill.

Waikiki's long, forgiving reefs made it a favorite playground for ali'i (chiefs and royalty), who rode enormous boards and competed publicly to demonstrate athletic ability and mana (spiritual power).

So, since its inception, surfing has been sort of a show-off water activity.

However, long before it was a tourist hub, ancient Waikiki operated under the kapu system, a rigid structure of religious and social laws that strictly stratified society.

Surfing (he'e nalu) was deeply embedded in this system.

Commoners and royalty (ali'i) did not share the same waves.

Elite chiefs held monopolies over specific breaks, such as Kapuni in Waikiki, which were forbidden to commoners.

In fact, Hawaiian oral histories tell of an athlete named Pikoi who inadvertently rode a wave alongside the queen at her private, taboo surf spot and was nearly executed for the transgression.

The world's most famous surf ambassador grew up here

The legendary Duke Kahanamoku learned to surf in Waikiki.

While he won Olympic gold medals in swimming, he became even more influential for introducing surfing to places such as California and Australia.

One famous story: in 1915, Duke demonstrated surfing in Australia on a board he made himself, helping launch modern Australian surf culture.

What he exported was essentially Waikiki surf culture.

Some Waikiki waves may have the longest surfing history on Earth

The surf break known as Queens is often cited as one of the oldest continuously surfed waves in the world.

Historical evidence and Hawaiian oral traditions suggest people have been riding waves here for centuries, possibly more than a thousand years.

Waikiki's waves helped shape surfboard design

The long, peeling reef breaks of Waikiki reward graceful riding rather than brute-force maneuvers.

The unique environment helped develop classic longboard techniques such as cross-stepping and noseriding.

Modern longboard competitions still draw inspiration from the style born here.

The 19th-century missionary surfing ban

After Western contact and social upheaval in the 1800s, traditional Hawaiian culture - including surfing - declined dramatically.

When Christian missionaries arrived in Hawaii, they heavily disapproved of the sport.

It wasn't the wave-riding itself that bothered them, but rather the culture surrounding it: men and women surfing together without clothing, the intense community gambling on surf heats, and the fact that people skipped church when the surf was good.

Due to missionary pressure and the tragic drop in the Native Hawaiian population from introduced diseases, surfing was suppressed so heavily that by the late 19th century, only a relatively small number of Hawaiians still practiced it regularly.

The sport had to be actively revived in the early 1900s by a group of passionate locals and Hawaiian elites.

The first surf club in the world was founded in Waikiki

The Outrigger Canoe Club, founded in 1908, is generally regarded as the world's oldest organized surfing club.

Its goal was to preserve surfing and canoeing traditions while promoting Waikiki as a destination.

Surfing in Waikiki reflected Hawaii's racial tensions

One of the lesser-known stories involves the rivalry between the Outrigger Canoe Club and the Hawaiian-led Hui Nalu.

Many Native Hawaiian surfers felt excluded from elite institutions despite being heirs to the surfing tradition itself.

Duke Kahanamoku helped found Hui Nalu, which became a powerful force in preserving Hawaiian leadership within surfing culture.

The mythic 1-mile wave

Duke Kahanamoku, a five-time Olympic medalist in swimming, used his global fame to share the sport of he'e nalu (wave sliding) with the world.

But his most legendary feat happened right at home in Waikiki.

In 1917, riding a massive, 16-foot surfboard hand-carved from solid koa wood that weighed 114 pounds, Duke caught a monster swell at an outer reef break called Castle's.

He connected it through multiple surf lineups, speeding past the Moana Hotel and finally stepping off his board right onto the sand at Kahanamoku Beach.

The ride spanned a mind-boggling 1.125 miles, a distance that remains historically unbeatable.

Waikiki's famous Beach Boys were much more than surf instructors

The "Waikiki Beach Boys" were legendary watermen who taught visitors to surf, steered outrigger canoes, rescued swimmers, and served as cultural ambassadors.

Many tourists thought they were simply surf instructors.

In reality, they preserved Hawaiian ocean knowledge through decades of rapid tourism development. And they were highly sociable with the haoles, both men and women.

The nicknames of the original Beach Boys

The original Waikiki Beach Boys of the early 1900s were such distinct personalities that they rarely went by their legal names.

If you walked down the beach in 1930, you wouldn't ask for George or William. You would look for guys named: Steamboat, Turkey, Splash, Colgate (named for his bright, white-toothed smile), Scooter, Panama, etc.

These men were so respected for their ocean safety skills that they eventually transformed from a loose group of local surfers into the Territorial Beach Patrol, laying the foundation for Hawaii's modern professional ocean rescue lifeguards (Honolulu Ocean Safety Department).

Teaching Hollywood royalty (and British royalty) to surf

Because of Waikiki's status as a luxury playground in the 1920s and 1930s, the Beach Boys became the personal instructors to the world's most famous elite.

Duke Kahanamoku personally taught Edward, Prince of Wales (the future King of England) how to surf during a royal visit in 1920.

Legendary Beach Boys like Louis "Steamboat" Mokuahi and Chick Daniels gave private lessons to Hollywood icons like Shirley Temple, Buster Keaton, Douglas Fairbanks, and Amelia Earhart.

You can surf Waikiki in a giant canoe

One of the most unique Waikiki experiences isn't a surfboard at all.

Large outrigger canoes regularly catch and ride Waikiki's rolling waves.

The tradition dates back more than a century and remains a major part of local water culture. Seeing six or more people surfing the same wave in a canoe is still common.

The most crowded lineup in Hawaii may also be one of the friendliest

At breaks like Queens and Canoes, dozens - or sometimes hundreds - of surfers can share the same area.

Yet the mellow nature of the waves encourages a social atmosphere unlike the more competitive lineups found at famous big-wave spots.

Just make sure to respect everyone.

Waikiki's waves are why beginners around the world stand up on their first day

Many surf schools choose Waikiki because the reef creates long, predictable rides.

A wave here can carry a novice surfer much farther than many beach-break waves elsewhere in the world.

That's why countless visitors catch their first wave in Waikiki.

Some of Waikiki's sand came from California

One of the strangest Waikiki facts has little or nothing to do with surfing itself.

The pristine, continuous sandy beach you see today in Waikiki is an illusion. It is largely a massive, multi-decade civil engineering project.

Historically, Waikiki (which translates to "spouting fresh water") was a vast wetland composed of taro fields, fishponds, and meandering streams backed by coconut groves.

In the 1920s, the construction of the Ala Wai Canal drained and diverted the wetlands to clear the path for commercial tourism.

However, the seawalls and structures built to protect the new hotels severely eroded the natural shoreline.

To maintain the tropical fantasy, millions of tons of sand have been systematically shipped, pumped, and imported into Waikiki from other parts of Hawaii (and even from California, such as Manhattan Beach) for over a century.

Waikiki used to be wetlands and taro fields

Before it became a world-famous beach district, much of Waikiki was marshland, fishponds, streams, and taro cultivation.

The surf breaks remained, but the landscape behind them would be almost unrecognizable to today's visitors.

Duke's statue is a modern surf pilgrimage site

The famous bronze statue of Duke Kahanamoku at Waikiki Beach is often draped with flower leis.

Surfers from around the world stop there as a kind of pilgrimage, paying respects to the man many consider the father of modern surfing.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Surfing has always had an uneven relationship with athleticism. Some world champions look like light, agile cheetahs. Others resemble bulls ready to unleash all their energy on an off-the-wall turn at J-Bay.

A few have built careers on explosive power, while others seemed to glide through heats with effortless timing and technique.

For decades, the sport has produced champions of different physique shapes and sizes, leaving a simple question hanging in the air.

Is there such a thing as the ideal surfer body type? Is there an ideal weight and height for surfing? Or could there be a perfectly balanced ratio between the two variables?

We at SurferToday.com are obsessed with what numbers tell us, when they can. Stats can help us understand more about performance, success, and world titles.

A review of height and weight data from all 43 athletes on the 2026 World Surf League (WSL) Championship Tour, along with measurements from 27 world champions dating back to the 1960s, offers one of the clearest looks yet at the physiques that reach the top of professional surfing.

We did the math, and the answer is both surprising and revealing. Shall we take a look at it?

The average professional surfer

The 2026 CT features 36 men and 24 women who have reached the pinnacle of professional competitive surfing.

They fought hard from the bottom up to deserve an elite spot in an exclusive club.

Here's the first analysis we can immediately take.

Across the field (25 male surfers and 18 female surfers' data crunched), the average surfer stands 172.9 centimeters tall and weighs 68.7 kilograms.

The average Body Mass Index (BMI) is 22.75.

The numbers place the typical professional surfer squarely in a healthy athletic range.

They are lean, but not exceptionally light. They are strong, but rarely bulky.

Male surfers on the tour average 178.8 centimeters in height and 76.8 kilograms in weight, with an average BMI of 23.99.

Female surfers average 164.8 centimeters and 57.4 kilograms, with an average BMI of 21.03.

The gap between the men and women is substantial (13 centimeters in height and 19 kilograms in weight), but within each group, there is a considerable level of consistency.

Most male surfers cluster between 175 and 182 centimeters tall and weigh between 72 and 81 kilograms.

On the other hand, most female surfers fall between 160 and 170 centimeters and weigh between 52 and 62 kilograms.

For a sport often associated with freedom, individuality, and technical skills, elite pro surfing turns out to have a surprisingly narrow physical profile.

Height and weight move together

However, the strongest pattern in the data is not height, weight, or BMI by themselves.

Instead, it is the relationship between height and weight.

Among all current CT surfers, the correlation between height and weight reaches 0.94 on the Pearson scale, where 1.0 represents a perfect relationship.

The Pearson scale is a way of measuring the strength and direction of a linear relationship between two variables, ranging from -1 (perfect negative correlation) to +1 (perfect positive correlation), with 0 meaning no linear correlation.

It answers the question: how tightly do height and weight move together?

In practical terms, taller surfers almost always weigh more, and shorter surfers almost always weigh less.

The pattern remains strong when men and women are analyzed separately. The correlation is 0.89 among men and 0.85 among women.

So, professional surfers may vary in size, but they tend to maintain similar proportions.

A regression for our data reveals the answer to another question: how much does weight change when height increases by 1 cm?

The connection is so strong that a simple formula describes much of the tour:

Weight (kg) = 1.21 × Height (cm) - 140

According to that relationship, each additional centimeter of height corresponds to roughly 1.2 kilograms of body weight.

In other words, among elite surfers, weight increases slightly more than proportionally with height, at about 1.21 kilograms for each additional centimeter.

Or even simpler: taller surfers in this dataset carry proportionally more mass, not just slightly more.

The BMI sweet spot

BMI is an imperfect tool. It cannot distinguish muscle from fat, and elite athletes often expose its limitations.

Still, it provides a useful way to compare large groups. And the CT reveals a remarkably tight range.

The median BMI is 23.15. Half of all surfers fall between 21.38 and 24.26.

That narrow window suggests that professional surfing rewards a specific balance between body mass and mobility.

Too little mass can make paddling and power generation more difficult. Too much mass can make rapid direction changes harder.

The athletes competing at the highest level appear to settle naturally into a middle ground. Does that sound surprising? Maybe yes, maybe not.

The champions are not what many people expect

If there were an ideal surfer body, world champions would probably reveal it. Yet the champions tell a different story.

We looked at data from 27 male and female world surfing champions.

The average world champion in the dataset stands 173.9 centimeters tall and weighs 70 kilograms, with an average BMI of 23.05.

Those figures are almost identical to the averages found on today's Championship Tour. Interesting, isn't it?

Champions are only about one centimeter taller and 1.3 kilograms heavier than the modern tour average.

The difference is so small that it is difficult to argue that champions possess a unique physical advantage.

The numbers suggest that elite performance is not reserved for athletes with exceptional height or exceptional size.
A wide range of winners

Some champions fit the classic image of a compact, explosive surfer.

Tom Carroll stood 169 centimeters tall and weighed about 69 kilograms.

Italo Ferreira measures 168 centimeters and weighs 68 kilograms.

Caitlin Simmers, one of the newest world champions, stands 158 centimeters and weighs 52 kilograms.

Others occupy the opposite end of the spectrum.

John John Florence stands 185 centimeters tall.

Sunny Garcia competed at roughly 91 kilograms.

Stephanie Gilmore, an eight-time world champion, stands 178 centimeters tall, making her one of the tallest women ever to dominate the sport.

The spread is enormous.

World champion heights range from 158 centimeters to 185 centimeters - that's 27 centimeters.

World champion weights range from 52 kilograms to 91 kilograms - that's 39 kilograms.

Therefore, the numbers alone challenge the idea that surfing favors one body type.

The champion envelope

Although champions come in many forms, they still tend to gather within a broad athletic zone.

Most male champions fall between 170 and 183 centimeters in height and weigh between 65 and 80 kilograms.

Most female champions stand between 163 and 178 centimeters and weigh between 55 and 70 kilograms.

Within those ranges, there is room for very different approaches to surfing.

Some athletes rely on explosive turns and aerial maneuvers. Others build careers around power, rail work, wave selection, or technical precision.

The body types vary; the ability to win remains.

Why surfing is different

Many sports reward a clear physical advantage.

For instance, basketball favors height, gymnastics rewards compactness, and rowing tends to favor larger athletes.

Surfing appears to resist that kind of sorting.

One of the reasons is that the wave does not care how tall a surfer is. It does not measure arm span or leg length.

Conditions change every day, often every hour.

A surfer who excels in powerful reef breaks may look very different from a surfer who thrives in small beach break conditions.

The data reflects that reality.

So, there is no obvious height that produces champions, and there is no obvious weight that produces champions.

What emerges instead is a preference for balance.

Professional surfers tend to carry enough mass to paddle efficiently and generate power while remaining light enough to react quickly and move freely across a wave face.

That balance appears far more important than any specific number on a scale or tape measure.

For decades, surf culture has celebrated individuality.

The statistics suggest that the sport still does. Even at the highest level, there is more than one way to build a world champion.

The difference could be in the way you ride the barrel, take it to the air, or get the most out of a shoulder-high wall of saltwater.

Or ultimately, in the way a surfer in a heat reads and picks the best wave.

And that won't probably change in the future.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

In the 21st century, the surfing world witnessed several ways of generating a rideable wave outside the ocean.

However, for decades, artificial wave technology has followed a familiar formula.

Someone builds a giant pool, installs complex machinery, moves enormous volumes of water, and creates a wave where no ocean exists.

A Russian company called Surfinity is taking a different path.

Instead of constructing a purpose-built surf lagoon, the company has developed a system designed to turn existing lakes, reservoirs, and artificial water bodies into surf destinations.

The technology relies on a moving device that generates waves as it travels across the water, creating a setup that looks less like a traditional wave pool and more like a cross between a cable park and a surfing reef.

Surfinity shares a similar background with Finland's very own Artwave, one of the smartest, least expensive, most compact, and most mobile wave-generation systems on the planet.

SurferToday.com tested it and enjoyed the ride, somewhere in a forest in the middle of the Nordic country.

Now, Surfinity seems to be moving the same way and beyond the drawing board.

The firm already operates a surf park near Moscow and says its technology can be installed almost anywhere in the world where suitable water conditions exist.

Shall we see how it works?

A wave created by motion

At the center of the system is a hydrodynamic device known as a "plow." Yes, you read it well - a plow.

The plow travels along a cable stretched between two stations positioned at opposite ends of the riding area.

As it moves, the plow pushes water aside and creates two symmetrical wake waves, one on each side of its path.

The effect resembles the wake generated by a boat, although Surfinity's system is designed to produce the waves continuously along a fixed route.

The company says the plow travels in a straight line from one end of the riding zone to the other.

When it reaches the end, it slows down, stops briefly, then accelerates back in the opposite direction and repeats the cycle.

It's the motion of surf.

The setup consists of a motor station, a return station, a cable connecting the two, and the plow itself.

Compared with many modern surf park technologies, the mechanical layout is relatively simple.

Two different surf experiences

Surfinity produces what it describes as two distinct types of waves.

The first are wake waves, which form directly behind the moving plow. These waves are similar to those ridden in wakesurfing, where a surfer rides the wake behind a boat.

The difference is that Surfinity creates two waves at the same time, allowing riders on both sides of the plow's path.

The second are breaking waves. They appear when the wake reaches specially shaped shallow areas near the shoreline.

As the water encounters the changing depth, the wave steepens and begins to break in a way that resembles ocean surf.

Surfers can paddle, catch the wave, and ride it much like they would at a beach break.

According to the company, designing the underwater contours correctly is a critical part of the system.

Artificial lakes offer an advantage because the bottom profile can be shaped specifically to improve wave performance.

But you might not need that much human intervention.

Long rides without a wave pool

One of Surfinity's most striking claims involves ride length.

The company says its waves can extend between 985 and 1640 feet (300 and 500 meters), with wave heights reaching up to four feet (1.5 meters). It also advertises rides lasting around 60 seconds under suitable conditions.

At its operating site in Borshchyovo, northwest of Moscow, Surfinity promotes what it calls the longest artificial surfing wave in Russia, measuring approximately 983 feet (300 meters).

The numbers place the system in a unique position within the surf park market.

Many modern wave pools focus on producing highly repeatable, high-performance waves that last only a few seconds.

Surfinity instead emphasizes longer rides generated across a much larger stretch of water.

And that could be extremely cool and appealing to most recreational surfers.

A different approach to artificial waves

The global surf park industry has expanded rapidly since 2015.

Companies such as Wavegarden and American Wave Machines have developed sophisticated systems capable of generating hundreds of waves per hour and a wide variety of wave shapes.

They built facilities that often rely on hydraulic, pneumatic, or electromechanical systems housed within specially constructed lagoons.

Surfinity follows a different engineering philosophy.

Rather than moving water across an entire pool, it creates a traveling wake and allows the surrounding environment to shape that energy into surfable waves.

The result is a system that can use existing water bodies and requires a much narrower footprint than many conventional surf parks.

The company lists a minimum water area of roughly 985 by 165 feet (300 by 50 meters), with an optimal size of about 1310 by 165 feet (400 by 50 meters).

The Russian wavemakers say installations can operate in lakes, artificial reservoirs, rivers, and sheltered coastal inlets. And they only need two weeks to get it up and pumping.

Again, in a way similar to Artwave.

Ver esta publicação no Instagram

Uma publicação partilhada por Рома Полак | Обучение сёрфингу | Сёрфинг по-Чёрному | (@blackseasurfer)

Capacity, power, and economics

Surfinity says its system can generate up to 600 waves per hour and accommodate between 14 and 50 riders per hour, depending on site conditions and wave configuration.

Energy consumption is listed at approximately 100 kilowatt-hours (kWh).

The company argues that the design offers lower operating costs than many competing surf technologies because it uses electric power, requires less maintenance than boats, and does not depend on large hydraulic or pneumatic infrastructure.

Surfinity also claims operating expenses can be significantly lower than comparable systems, although independent verification of those figures is not publicly available.

The business model is aimed at surf parks, hotels, recreation centers, resorts, and waterfront developments seeking to add a surfing attraction without building a conventional wave pool.

Built by surfers

The origins of the project trace back to 2010.

According to the company, the idea emerged after its founders launched what they describe as Moscow's first wakesurf club.

Looking for a way to reduce the costs associated with boat-based surfing, they began developing a dedicated wave-generating system that could reproduce surfable waves without relying on towboats.

The resulting technology is described by the company as patented.

The team also operates surfing businesses beyond Russia, including a Bali-based surf school that dates back to 2008.

Can they make it into the highly competitive wave pool industry?

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

For years, surfers arriving at San Francisco's Ocean Beach could count on seeing Sandro Ricardo Britz in the lineup.

Friends say he was the kind of person whose name came up almost anywhere along the beach.

Sandro was a longtime Sunset District resident, an experienced surfer originally from Brazil, and a familiar face in one of California's most demanding surf communities.

Now, the lineup is missing one of its regulars.

Britz, 55, died after a rescue at Ocean Beach on May 28.

His death has prompted an outpouring of grief across San Francisco's surfing community, where friends, neighbors, and fellow surfers have remembered him as a constant presence in the water and a deeply valued friend on shore.

"He was a decades-long Bay Area surfer and resident," Pam Morse wrote while sharing a fundraiser for his family.

"Always charging, always a light in the lineup."

Distress signals in heavy surf

The incident unfolded around 1:20 pm near Lincoln Way at Ocean Beach.

According to the San Francisco Fire Department, an off-duty National Park Service lifeguard who was surfing nearby and three on-duty National Park Service Ocean Rescue lifeguards noticed a surfer waving both hands above his head, a recognized distress signal, just outside the surf line.

At roughly the same time, firefighters received reports of a surfer in trouble.

The lifeguards immediately swam toward the surfer, later identified as Britz. When they reached him, they found him face down, unconscious, and not breathing.

"Upon reaching the distressed surfer, the lifeguards found an adult surfer who was face down, unconscious, and not breathing," the fire department said.

The rescuers began lifesaving efforts in the water while bringing Britz back to shore.

San Francisco Fire Department paramedics continued advanced life support treatment on the beach before transporting him to a local hospital in critical condition.

Despite those efforts, Britz was later pronounced dead.

The San Francisco Fire Department released videos and photographs showing the extensive rescue response.

Questions remain about the cause of death

Authorities have not released Britz's official cause of death.

Several reports have stated that investigators were examining whether a medical emergency may have occurred before he became unresponsive in the water.

Possibilities mentioned in reports included a cardiac event.

Britz's friend Ayrton Sobral, who was surfing nearby that day, said he did not believe drowning caused his death.

"His wife told me that they did not find water in his lungs, so he had a stroke that put him out," Sobral told KRON4.

Officials have not confirmed that account, and the incident remains under investigation.

The National Park Service told The Post that the case was still being investigated.

Ocean Beach at its most challenging

Ocean Beach has long carried a reputation as one of California's most difficult and unpredictable surf spots.

The National Park Service warns that the beach's powerful rip currents and changing conditions can pull people offshore. The agency says swimming at Ocean Beach is never safe.

Conditions on May 28 were especially severe.

A rare late spring west swell had pushed into Northern California, generating powerful double overhead surf more commonly associated with winter.

The larger swell intensified Ocean Beach's already complex sandbars, strong currents, and shifting peaks.

Overall conditions were extremely rough.

The National Weather Service had also issued a beach hazards statement for San Francisco and nearby coastal areas, warning of strong rip currents and sneaker waves.

San Francisco Fire Department spokesperson Jonathan Baxter described the ocean as turbulent and unusually aggressive.

"We have large waves coming in very quickly, almost to the point where it looks like a washing machine cycle," Baxter said.

Even among experienced surfers, Ocean Beach commands respect.

Friends noted that Britz knew the break well and had spent years navigating its constantly changing conditions.

A life built around the ocean

Those who knew Britz say his connection to Ocean Beach ran much deeper than recreation.

Sobral said the two men spent years sharing sessions in the cold Pacific.

"If you walk here on the beach and talk to anyone, somebody knows him," Sobral said.

"He's that kind of guy who loved to be here at Ocean Beach. We tried to live in the water as much as we could. Water was our place."

Friends described Britz as someone who understood Ocean Beach's moods and dangers better than most. He was regarded as a regular, a surfer whose presence became part of the beach break's rhythm.

Photos on his Facebook profile show him surfing Ocean Beach as far back as 2009.

After news of his death spread, friends filled his social media pages with messages of disbelief and remembrance.

"Oh, my surf buddy," one friend wrote. "I'm not prepared for this."

"I am very sorry for your departure. I (had) the pleasure of being your friend," another posted.

One longtime friend wrote, "I can't believe we talked on Tuesday and you left without warning, but doing what you loved to do most, going down your last wave, rest in peace."

Another added, "See you soon on the other side, brother! Light in the room!"

Others remembered narrowly missing the scene that day.

"I missed you guys by minutes. I was hoping those trucks weren't for either of you. Godspeed and good waves."

A love story that began in Brazil

Beyond surfing, friends have focused on the life Britz built with his wife, Michele.

According to a GoFundMe page created to support her, the couple met in Brazil 14 years ago and fell in love there before building a life together in San Francisco.

"They have been inseparable ever since, working side by side and supporting each other through every challenge," the fundraiser says.

The couple operated a housecleaning business together and cared for their three dogs.

The fundraiser describes Britz as "beloved by his friends, neighbors, and the surfing community."

It also says, "Sandro was Michele's love, her rock, her North Star."

Following his death, the fundraiser was established to help cover funeral expenses, living costs, and the care of the couple's pets as Michele navigates life without her husband.

Donations quickly began to pour in. The campaign raised more than $30,000.

Surfers, we have a problem. Or maybe more than one, but let's address the fundamental one first. What if it's just getting so crowded at our local beaches, it's just not worth it anymore?

Yes, I belong to a group of lucky surfers who live near a coastline blessed with plenty of favorable swells and quality waves.

For that, I present my sincere apologies as I speak from a place of privilege.

However, every coin has two sides, and despite the number of amazing waves and peaks that I can count within half an hour of driving from my flat, it's also true that most of them - over 85 percent - are crowded all year round.

And by crowded, I mean counting over 30 surfers per beach break peak.

You could say, "Go surfing at 7 am." I know, I've done that and... it's full of like-minded water people.

"Then, do it on weekdays." True and the same apples. It's unbelievably crowded.

"Have you tried surfing at dawn?" Sure thing. I did it even on winter days, and humans are there for the same reason I am.

I've been witnessing this phenomenon worsen from 2010 to the present.

I don't have a 100 percent correct explanation for it, but I do know that surfing's popularity has gone through the roof.

I am sure there are a few factors that play against the quality of any surfer's sessions, as this is a problem that affects everyone.

Social media

One of them is the rise of social media.

The photo- and video-sharing era made surfing super cool and appealing, inviting anyone to join the tribe and have their stand-up surfing accomplishments frozen forever on their feeds.

People feel they need to escape screens and have outdoor experiences, only to have them posted online soon after.

We have already written a few words on our very own theory of the evolution of surfing as a purchasable experience. Feel free to agree, partially agree, or disagree.

Low-cost flights

Then, low-cost flights aren't making things easy.

Surfers who live in landlocked nations or near unfavorable swell coastlines can easily get in a plane and travel from Finland (Northern Europe) in the morning to Portugal (Southwestern Europe) and be surfing after lunch in Portugal.

The same applies to the US, Australia, and Asia.

I barely listen to Portuguese-speaking surfers in my home break anymore.

The Olympic Games

Another reason is the Olympic Games. Since surfing became an Olympic sport at Tokyo 2020, it has been exposed to millions of aspiring beginner surfers.

Around Sydney 2000 and Athens 2004, I was also exposed to live coverage of sailing races and got hooked.

So, I have learned to sail, first in a Vaurien boat, and later in an Olympic sailing class, the Laser, now ILCA dinghy.

Paris 2024, with its magnificent Teahupoo wave and the unforgettable Gabriel Medina floating picture, only magnified the world's interest in surfing.

Live broadcasts

Finally, if you trust the World Surf League's (WSL) figures, the 80 million people who got in touch with competitions in 2025 watched content for 20.3 million hours, an increase of 19 percent from 2024.

The WSL finals drew 45 million viewers, and the webcast audience increased by 17 percent year over year.

On average, each event had 2.5 million live viewers.

Pro surfing's yearly broadcast growth is considerable, compared to other popular sports.

Could wave pools release crowd pressure?

No wonder there are more recreational surfers than ever. But there's a catch here.

Quantity is not quality is not quantity. In other words, more surfers mean fewer quality sessions and eventually fewer ridden waves per hour.

While it's great to see more people engaging in surfing and sports in general, surfing requires limited natural resources.

Waves are scarce, and the number of surf breaks is pretty much static.

Unless the democratization of access to wave pools opens new opportunities to all surfers, for instance, in inland towns.

Actually, the advent of artificial waves has also extended the number of people who master the art of riding a rolling wall of fresh or saltwater.

Paradoxically, the only thing that seems to keep surfers out of the water is the growing issue of pollution.

The problem has reached a point where surfers are actually willing to risk their lives and health to paddle out in infected waters.

Is giving up an option?

Anyway, my surfing fix has been putting more and more on hold due to the crowd factor. Every time I check the cams or the beach, I immediately lose interest.

How can I be enjoying myself with 50 people trying desperately to gain priority to ride an average three-to-five-foot wave?

I have tried it many times, and I tend to leave the water more stressed out than when I was still dry, assessing the conditions.

Maybe my time is done, and the lineup is now controlled by first-timers and their portable waterproof cameras.

Should I push myself into it again or surrender to the massification of surfing?

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Along Angola's Atlantic coast, about 75 miles (120 kilometers) south of Luanda, a long arc of sand curves beneath cliffs and rocky headlands.

At the southern end of the bay, a wave wraps around the point and runs for what feels like forever.

Welcome to dreamy Cabo Ledo, home to Praia dos Surfistas (or Surfers' Beach), a place that has become the center of Angolan surfing and one of the most remarkable left-hand point breaks in Africa, alongside Namibia's very own Skeleton Bay.

For decades, surfers have crossed continents searching for long, uncrowded waves. Many eventually hear the same name: Cabo Ledo.

The appeal, you know, is easy to understand.

The wave is consistent, forgiving in many conditions, and capable of producing rides that stretch hundreds of yards down the bay.

Yet it remains connected to a fishing village, a beach camping culture, and a coastline that still feels far removed from the crowds that dominate many famous surf destinations.

How surfing arrived in Angola

The history of surfing in Angola reaches further back than many people realize.

One of the earliest documented surf explorations of the country came in 1973, when American surfer Randy Rarick entered Angola after traveling through southern Africa.

Rarick, who would later become one of the most influential figures in world surfing, explored the Angolan coast during a period when very few surfers had seen its waves.

His journey was later featured in Surfer magazine in 1974 under the title "A Journey into the Past, A Place for the Future."

Looking back, the title seems prophetic. Angola was approaching independence, and its surf potential remained almost entirely unexplored.

That same era would also change the life of Nuno Jonet, often described as one of the founding fathers of Portuguese surfing, alongside Pedro Martins de Lima.

Living in Angola during the early 1970s, Jonet met Rarick and his traveling companions on Luanda's coastline.

After buying a surfboard from them and receiving his first lessons, he became hooked for life. Nuno later helped establish Portuguese surfing institutions and remained one of the sport's leading voices.

Surfing in Angola developed slowly.

The country's long civil war, which lasted from 1975 until 2002, made travel difficult and restricted access to many beaches.

Small groups of surfers continued surfing mainly around Luanda.

By the mid-1990s, surfers such as Sérgio Afonso and Renato Brigham were helping keep the sport alive. At the time, the local surfing community was tiny, numbering only a handful of people.

The modern era of Angolan surfing began after peace returned. The sport was incorporated into the Federação Angolana de Desportos Náuticos (FADEN) in 2012.

Amateur competitions followed in Cabo Ledo in 2013 and 2014, both won by the local Jagas de Cabo Ledo team.

Local surfers such as José Gabriel became symbols of a new generation growing up with the wave at their doorstep.

Today, Cabo Ledo is widely regarded as the cathedral of Angolan surfing.

Where Cabo Ledo sits on the Atlantic Coast

Cabo Ledo lies roughly two to two and a half hours south of Luanda by road.

The beach sits near a fishing village and occupies a strategic position on the South Atlantic coastline. You cannot not notice it. It's stunning from above.

Its geography is a major reason for its quality.

The bay opens toward the northwest, an orientation that allows southern swells traveling across the South Atlantic Ocean to bend into the point and produce long, organized lines.

The surrounding coastline combines cliffs, rocky headlands, sandbanks, and broad sandy beaches. The result is a setup that captures energy from distant storms while protecting parts of the bay from local wind.

From the hills above the beach, the water often appears turquoise.

Below, the coastline forms a natural amphitheater where waves wrap around the point and continue down the length of the bay.

The area is also known for its dramatic scenery.

Sandstone and rocky formations frame the beach, while trails and viewpoints offer wide views of the Atlantic.

Nearby stretches of coast remain sparsely developed and continue to hide numerous surf breaks that receive far less attention than Cabo Ledo.

The wave that made Cabo Ledo famous

At its heart, Cabo Ledo is a left-hand point break.

The wave wraps around the rocky headland at the southern end of the bay and peels toward the north across a sandbank and mixed bottom.

What makes it special is not raw power but length.

On good days, surfers can ride the wave for hundreds of yards. Some descriptions place the longest rides at up to half a mile (800 meters).

Even on ordinary days, rides of 330 to 650 feet (100 to 200 meters) are common.

The wave often produces smooth walls and tapered shoulders that allow surfers to link multiple turns while maintaining speed.

The outside section near the rocks carries the most power and steepness. It's where more experienced surfers tend to position themselves. Further inside, the wave becomes softer and more forgiving.

One unusual characteristic is how the wave approaches the beach. It rolls almost perpendicular to the shoreline and continues across much of the bay.

The layout makes reaching the lineup relatively straightforward compared with many other point breaks.

The bay also produces different wave zones.

The main point break is long, consistent, and relatively mellow. At higher tides, two faster and more advanced sections can develop, offering more challenging conditions for skilled surfers.

The wave is ideal for refining technique. Longboarders, funboard riders, single-fin enthusiasts, and shortboard surfers can all find suitable sections.

It is one of the rare waves where a beginner and an experienced surfer can enjoy the same session while surfing different parts of the break.

Where else in the world can you find that?

Ocean bottom and bathymetry

The shape of the seabed plays a major role in Cabo Ledo's consistency.

The point break forms around a rocky headland, but much of the ride continues across sandbanks.

The combination helps create long, predictable walls while allowing the wave to maintain shape over long distances.

The rocky areas near the takeoff zone generate the wave's initial power. As the wave moves down the line, the sandbanks help shape smoother sections that remain surfable for long periods.

At low tide, rocks become more exposed, making wave selection and positioning more important. Some surfers choose to wear reef booties when entering from the rocks near the point.

Swell patterns and why the wave works so often

Cabo Ledo benefits from its exposure to Southern Hemisphere swell systems.

The most reliable surf arrives between April and October. During this period, powerful storms in the South Atlantic send long-period swells toward Angola.

Swell heights of four to eight feet, with periods of around 15 seconds, are common during the peak season.

Southern and southwest swells are particularly effective. The coastline's orientation allows these swells to wrap into the bay and organize into long, clean lines.

Between June and September, larger southwest swells associated with Angola's calema season can produce stronger surf and more powerful conditions.

During these episodes, Cabo Ledo reveals another side of its personality. The wave becomes faster, larger, and more demanding.

Even outside the prime season, surf remains available throughout the year. Local surfers know that Cabo Ledo has rideable waves every month, and they make sure to have fun and improve their craft.

Wind conditions

Wind is one of the factors that help define the daily rhythm of surfing in Cabo Ledo.

The dominant winds generally blow from the south and southwest. These winds often strengthen from around mid-morning onward, making early sessions the preferred choice.

Morning conditions are frequently clean and glassy. As the day progresses, wind can add texture to exposed sections of the coastline.

One advantage of Cabo Ledo is the protection offered by the headland.

Parts of the inside section remain relatively sheltered even when southwest and west onshore winds affect surrounding areas.

The unique (and rare) protection helps extend surfable conditions deeper into the day than at many neighboring beaches.

Tides and currents

The tidal range along this stretch of Angola's coast is relatively modest and generally remains below five feet.

Many surfers prefer mid to high tide on the point break. At these levels, the wave develops smoother walls and the rocky sections become less exposed.

Low tide can still be surfable, but more rocks appear around the takeoff zone, and certain sections become shallower.

As swell size increases, currents become more noticeable. Large swells can generate powerful rips around the point.

Experienced surfers often use these currents to return to the peak more efficiently, while less experienced visitors should remain cautious and surf with others.

Who can surf Cabo Ledo?

One reason for Cabo Ledo's enduring popularity is its accessibility.

Beginners can find suitable conditions in the inside bay, where smaller waves and whitewater provide an ideal learning environment.

A bit like in some wave pools.

Visitors feel that this is one of the easiest places in Angola to learn how to surf because waves arrive in steady succession and the beach offers simple access.

Intermediate surfers often find the greatest rewards here. The long walls provide ample opportunity to practice trimming, positioning, turns, and wave reading.

Advanced surfers tend to focus on the outside sections, particularly when larger southwest swells arrive; sections offer greater speed, power, and performance potential.

Local surfers frequently describe Cabo Ledo as a wave that welcomes everyone. And that inclusiveness has become one of the defining traits of the lineup.

Water and air temperatures

The climate remains warm throughout the year.

Air temperatures commonly reach around 86 °F (30 °C), while daytime conditions during the dry season often range between 68 °F and 82 °F (20 °C and 28 °C).

Water temperatures generally fluctuate between 66 °F and 75 °F (19 °C and 24 °C), although some reports place seasonal highs around 79 °F (26 °C). Ocean currents and swell activity can influence temperatures from week to week.

Most surfers are comfortable in a 3/2 mm wetsuit during cooler periods or a 2/2 mm shorty during warmer conditions. Some choose to surf in boardshorts during the warmest months.

Long sessions are common because the wave is so inviting, making sun protection essential.

A surf hat and strong sunscreen are often more important than extra neoprene.

The local surf culture

Surfing in Cabo Ledo is deeply connected to the local community.

Many of the area's young surfers grew up watching visitors ride the point and eventually learned themselves.

Surfers such as António Diogo and José Gabriel represent a generation that transformed curiosity into skill through daily exposure to the ocean.

The beach is also home to bodyboarders, skimboarders, kitesurfers, stand-up paddleboarders, and longboarders. Water sports are part of daily life rather than a separate activity reserved for tourists.

Organizations such as Kalemba Radical have used board sports as social tools.

The project began more than a decade ago with the goal of helping young people avoid crime, drugs, and other risks by introducing them to sport and nature.

Environmental awareness is another important aspect of local surf culture.

Surfers and community leaders regularly emphasize beach conservation, ocean protection, and respect for wildlife, including sea turtles that nest along parts of Angola's coastline.

Beach rules and etiquette

Part of Cabo Ledo's appeal comes from a shared effort to preserve the atmosphere.

Local stakeholders have established simple rules that help keep the beach clean and peaceful.

Visitors are encouraged not to light fires on the sand, not to play loud music, not to use generators or bright electric lighting, and to remove all rubbish when they leave.

In the water, standard surf etiquette applies. Respect the surfer already riding a wave, avoid dropping in, and be aware of local surfers.

The lineup is generally friendly.

Even on busy weekends, Cabo Ledo remains far less crowded than many famous surf destinations elsewhere in the world.

Getting there

Most visitors travel from Luanda, the country's capital.

The usual route follows the EN100 coastal highway south. Along the way, travelers pass landmarks such as Barra do Kwanza and the famous Miradouro da Lua.

After leaving the main road, the final section follows an unpaved track toward Cabo Ledo village and Praia dos Surfistas.

Driving time is typically between two and two and a half hours, depending on traffic and road conditions.

During the dry season, standard vehicles can usually manage the route, while four-wheel drive becomes more useful during rainy periods.

Fuel should be purchased before leaving Luanda, as services near the beach remain limited.

Where to stay

Accommodation options have expanded significantly over the years, but camping remains the classic Cabo Ledo experience.

Many visitors arrive with tents, surfboards, coolers, and supplies for a weekend by the sea.

Beach camping has become a tradition among surfers from Luanda and beyond.

Basic guesthouses are available around the village, while small eco-lodges and surf-oriented accommodations have appeared in recent years.

More comfortable options also exist, including resorts along the coastline.

The best-known properties cater to travelers seeking additional comfort without sacrificing proximity to the surf.

Despite these developments, Cabo Ledo still feels more rustic than polished. That remains part of its charm.

If you need additional information, rentals, or surf lessons, contact the local Kiamba Surf School and Eco Carpe Diem.

What to do beyond surfing

The surf may be the headline attraction, but it is not the only reason people come.

Fishing remains central to local life. Visitors can watch wooden boats launch through the surf at dawn and return later with fresh catches.

Beachside shacks often grill fish directly from the day's haul.

The surrounding cliffs offer excellent hiking and photography opportunities. At sunset, the rocky formations glow in shades of gold and red.

Wildlife enthusiasts can explore nearby coastal habitats and river systems. The nearby Kwanza region supports birdlife that includes herons, kingfishers, and other coastal species.

Adventure seekers can explore dunes, climb rocky formations, and wander along long stretches of undeveloped shoreline.

The landscape retains a sense of openness that has disappeared from many surf destinations around the world.

Even for non-surfers, Cabo Ledo offers something increasingly rare: space, quiet, and a close connection to the Atlantic Ocean.

Praia dos Surfistas | The X-Ray

Location: Cabo Ledo, Angola
GPS Coordinates: -9.678244668728464, 13.200355581310026
Wave Size Range: 2-8 Feet
Swell Direction: S/SW
Bottom Type: Sand
Wave Direction: Left
Tides: Low, Mid, High
Wind Direction: Light SE
Water Temperature: - °F (19-25 °C)
Best Months: April-October (Dry Season)
Hazards: Currents

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com