In Munich, surfing has been a popular hobby for decades.

At the southern edge of the English Garden, beside the stately Haus der Kunst museum and the slow parade of bicycles and beer drinkers, the Eisbach wave rises from a narrow channel of cold Alpine water like a permanent dare.

For four decades, surfers have lined up there in neoprene, dropping one by one into a standing wave no wider than a city bus lane.

Tourists crowd the bridge above them, cameras click, and surfboards cut back and displace water. 

After the end of their turn, surfers fall in the water and queue once again in the cold, waiting for another turn.

This spring, after months of arguments, closures, protests, and uncertainty, the wave returned.

The resurrection of Munich's most famous surf spot has been messy, emotional, and unusually political for a stretch of whitewater tucked inside a public park.

One surfer died, city officials shut the break down, and a routine stream cleaning erased the wave altogether. Surfers secretly rebuilt it, but authorities tore their work back out.

By winter, the Eisbach had become the center of a bitter fight between Munich's bureaucracy and one of Europe's oldest river surfing communities.

Now the wave is flowing again, naturally, and surfing is officially permitted once more under tighter rules.

Dominik Krause, Munich's new Green Party mayor, moved quickly after taking office in March.

"I'm delighted that surfing on the Eisbach is finally possible again," he said after issuing a revised decree reopening the spot.

"Nature has finally cooperated, and the wave is back."

But the road to the rebirth of the mother of all river waves, as SurferToday.com once put it, has been bumpy in recent times.

The accident that changed everything

The crisis began in April 2025.

Late at night, a 33-year-old experienced surfer entered the Eisbach and became trapped underwater after her leash, the cord connecting surfer and board, became entangled beneath the river surface.

Firefighters from Munich's swiftwater rescue unit managed to pull her from the current in a difficult operation, but she later died from her injuries.

Authorities never identified a definitive cause for the accident.

The public prosecutor's investigation could not determine exactly how the leash became caught.

But the incident immediately changed the atmosphere around the wave.

The Eisbach had always carried risk. The current is fast, the water icy even in summer, and the narrow concrete channel leaves little room for error.

Yet the spot also operated for decades with an unusual level of freedom.

Surfing sessions often stretched late into the night. Local riders treated the wave less like a sports facility and more like a living part of the city.

And it was, besides becoming a go-to tourism spot for everyone visiting the capital of Bavaria.

After the fatality, Munich officials closed the break temporarily while debating how surfing could continue legally and safely.

Liability became the central issue.

The city needed to prove it had taken reasonable steps to reduce danger. Surfers feared the tragedy would become an excuse to put an end to the wave permanently.

By June 2025, officials reopened the Eisbach under temporary safety conditions.

New rules required surfers to use quick-release leashes designed to detach during emergencies. Night surfing was banned between 10 pm and 5:30 am.

The restrictions frustrated some regulars, but most accepted them as the price of keeping the wave alive.

Then came the next disaster.

The river wave disappears

Every autumn, Munich clears sediment, branches, and debris from the Eisbach streambed. The maintenance is routine.

In October 2025, however, the operation changed the river's shape enough to flatten the standing wave completely.

The break simply vanished.

It felt surreal: one week, the Eisbach was Munich's most famous wave, and the next, the water flowed smooth and empty beneath the bridge.

Locals blamed the city's building department for overdoing the cleanup. Officials insisted the work had been necessary.

Either way, the result was unmistakable. The wave no longer formed properly, and river surfing became impossible.

The closure inflamed tensions that had already been simmering since the fatal accident.

Demonstrations followed.

Angry surfers gathered near the site demanding action; others experimented with makeshift structures in the water, trying to force the wave back into shape.

Around Christmas 2025, unknown individuals secretly installed a temporary ramp in the river. For a brief moment, surfers were riding again.

The city quickly removed the structure. But that only deepened the standoff.

The underground fight to save the Eisbach

Through the winter, surfers and city officials negotiated over how to rebuild the wave safely and legally.

The Munich Surf Club and the Munich Surfing Interest Group, known as IGSM, became the public voice of the local surf community.

Engineers, university experts, and water specialists joined discussions about whether artificial modifications could restore the break permanently without creating new hazards.

Meanwhile, surfers kept sneaking into the water whenever conditions allowed.

The Eisbach had become more than a surf spot by that point.

It was a cultural argument about who controls public space in a city increasingly shaped by regulation and liability concerns.

Mayor Krause recognized that political reality early.

"The Eisbach wave is an expression of our city's relaxed lifestyle and a true landmark," he said shortly after taking office.

"My goal is for surfing to be possible again soon, at the latest by summer."

Then, Nature intervened before the engineers could.

Over recent weeks, moss and algae gradually altered the riverbed enough for the standing wave to rebuild itself.

Surfers noticed first. Quietly, they returned to the water, even while surfing technically remained prohibited.

Tourists once again gathered on the bridge, and surfboards reappeared along the banks. The lineups looked almost normal.

According to IGSM, the river itself solved the problem before any technical intervention became necessary.

"While we have been working intensively together with the SCM under the leadership of Prof Robert Meier-Staude for the past months to find an optimal solution, our dear Mother Nature was now faster and gave us her green help in the form of moss and algae, so that the wave also, without technical measures, has resurrected," the organization said.

"Thus, nothing stands in the way of lifting the surfing ban by the city administration, and we are happy to finally solemnly announce to you that from today on surfing on our beloved E1 is officially allowed again."

A ride bigger than surfing

The Eisbach is widely considered one of the world's most famous river waves, and arguably the best-known urban standing wave anywhere.

The break has been surfed since the late 1970s, early 1980s, helping turn Munich into one of Europe's unlikely surf capitals despite being hundreds of miles from the ocean.

Professional surfers visiting Germany often stop there. Beginners study the lineup from the bridge before attempting their first drop.

Tourists crowd the site year-round, even during snowstorms.

The wave itself forms where fast-moving water rushes over a shaped section of the riverbed near the Haus der Kunst.

Riders surf one at a time before being thrown into the turbulent downstream current. The experience lasts seconds but requires precise timing and balance.

The spot has also appeared in countless surf films, travel documentaries, and advertisements.

For many visitors, seeing surfers carving beneath stone bridges in the middle of Bavaria feels almost absurd enough to be magical.

Krause leaned into that symbolism after reopening the break.

"Surfing on the Eisbach is part of Munich's way of life; the Eisbach wave is a landmark of the city," he said.

The Munich Surf Club celebrated too, though not without a pointed reminder that the fight over the wave is not finished.

"The wave is back! We are happy, relieved, and deeply grateful to see this place come back to life," the club wrote on Instagram.

Then came the sharper message.

"But no one should claim this moment as their own. Politics did not bring the wave back. The administration did not bring the wave back. No official process delivered this moment."

"The river did. And the community never stopped fighting for it."

Surfing returns with new rules

Surfing is now officially allowed again, but the Eisbach of 2026 is not exactly the same as the Eisbach of old.

The city's revised regulations remain strict.

Surfing is prohibited overnight between 10 pm and 5:30 am. Riders must use self-releasing leashes.

Authorities also warned that unauthorized modifications to the river or vandalism around the site could force another closure.

Many surfers still see those rules as a compromise rather than a victory. But after nearly a year of uncertainty, compromise feels acceptable.

The Munich Surf Club acknowledged as much in its latest statement.

"Today we celebrate. Tomorrow, we keep pushing. For a real future of the Eisbach. Not decisions made without the people who live this culture."

"Let's see what the future brings."

IGSM struck a similarly hopeful tone after the reopening.

"We thank all the helpers, the city administration, and our OB Krause for all the efforts and wish us all good sessions, vibes, and an endless summer at the stream!"

The surfers are back in the water, and the bridge above the Eisbach is crowded again.

Munich once more has its strange little miracle in the middle of the city, where a river generates a wave that lets people surf without an ocean.

In recent years, the Tuapse district has witnessed a remarkable transformation. The local industrial hub also became the new surfing capital of southern Russia.

However, April 2026 proved a time of severe trials for the city and its water sports community.

A series of Ukrainian drone attacks and a major fuel oil spill threatened not only the environment but also the future of boardsports in the region.

But let's get back a bit in time. Just two years ago, in January 2024, the Tuapse district made history in Russian sports.

The village of Lermontovo held the first official longboarding championship in the Krasnodar region.

The event proved that the winter Black Sea near Tuapse can produce competition-level waves.

Sixteen of the best riders from southern Russia wrote a new chapter in cold water surfing, turning local surf breaks into a magnet for wave riders from across the country.

Ukrainian drone attacks

Unfortunately, the spring of 2026 brought very different news.

Since mid-April, the city has been living under a state of emergency caused by Ukrainian drone attacks on port infrastructure.

On April 16, 2025, the first drone attack on the marine terminal caused a fire and an initial leak of oil products into the Tuapse River.

A state of emergency was officially declared.

Four days later, a second incident worsened the situation, increasing the amount of fuel oil accumulated in the riverbed. Locals reported black rain covering cars with an oily film.

On April 24, the situation became critical.

Heavy rains caused the water level in the Tuapse River to rise sharply.

Containment booms failed under the pressure, and the accumulated oil products surged into the open sea.

At the end of the month, a fuel oil slick covering thousands of square meters began drifting along the coastline, contaminating the very beaches where historic surf events had taken place not long ago.

The oil spill cleanup effort

In the face of disaster, the surfing community and local activists have shown unprecedented unity.

Volunteers are helping relocate residents whose homes were damaged by drone attacks, collecting essential supplies and food.

Activists are also clearing courtyards, playgrounds, and public spaces of debris left after the incidents.

Residents, who know every curve of the coastline, have become indispensable in the fight against the spill.

They monitor wild beaches and rocky coves and quickly report new contamination sites to cleanup services.

For surfers, contact with oil-contaminated water is not only a health risk but also means instant damage to expensive equipment, such as wetsuits and boards.

Today, surfboards sit in garages while some of their owners work on the shore with shovels and bags.

Tuapse surfers hope that the combined efforts of professional emergency services and volunteers will eliminate the consequences of pollution as quickly as possible.

"Cleaning the river and the sea is the only path to restoring Tuapse's sporting glory," notes Alexander Abramov, manager at Worldex Sport, a Russian artificial wave company.

"We believe the city will endure, nature will recover, and the tradition of championships in Lermontovo and Nebug will resume as a symbol of resilience and love for the native sea."

Tuapse is part of the "Russian Riviera," a subtropical summer resort destination that is very popular during holidays.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

At places like Supertubos, waves do not give much time to think.

One moment you are dropping in, the next you are under a wall of water with your board somewhere above or beside you.

That is where accidents like the one involving an Italian surfer begin. He spent six days with the tip of a surfboard fin lodged in his face between his jaw and his nasal septum.

On his last ride at the European Pipeline, the board slingshot back at him and hit him hard.

In 2023, a surfer lost his life after the fin of his surfboard cut his femoral artery, resulting in a quick loss of blood.

The worst thing is that sometimes serious injuries take place in the smallest surf.

A surfboard fin may be small, but it usually moves fast and carries the force of the wave behind it. When it connects with a face, an arm, or a rib, the result can be worse than most surfers expect.

And it often ends up in a hospital bed. The risk is not new. What stands out is how easy it is to underestimate it.

So, we at SurferToday.com decided to reflect on what surfers and surfboard fin manufacturers could do to minimize injuries.

A few changes in how surfers fall, how they handle their boards, and how fins are built could make these accidents less severe.

No one really expects a session to end in a hospital visit.

What surfers can do in the water

Most fin injuries happen when the surfer loses track of the board, right?

That's why the first habit to build is simple. Stay aware of where your board is, even during a wipeout.

We know that sounds obvious, but in heavy surf, many surfers go rigid and stop reacting.

Training yourself to fall with control can make a real difference. Covering your head with your arms and turning slightly away from the board reduces the chance of a direct hit.

It's not 100 percent safe, but it mitigates most accidents.

Then we've got duck diving large waves, which brings a different kind of risk. If the timing is off, the wave can rip the board backward.

A tight grip on the rails helps, but grip alone is not enough.

Keeping the board angled slightly downward and pushing it deep under the turbulence lowers the chance that it will snap back toward your face.

Got it?

Leashes also play a quiet role in these accidents.

A short, tight leash pulls the board back faster after a fall. That snapback effect can send fins toward the surfer.

Choosing a leash length that matches the board and wave size helps reduce that recoil. Some surfers even shift their body to the side of the leash line when resurfacing, just to avoid being in its path.

Board handling outside the wave matters too. Many injuries happen in shallow water or crowded lineups.

Holding the board by the nose with the fins trailing behind, instead of at your side, keeps the sharp edges away from your body and from others nearby.

Small design changes with big effects

Surfboard fins are sharp for a reason. They need to cut through water cleanly and hold in steep waves.

Still, there is room for smarter design without ruining performance.

Manufacturers can adjust the edges of fins in subtle ways. A slightly rounded leading edge, or a micro-bevel along the outer rim, can soften the impact without changing how the fin behaves in the water.

These changes are small enough that most surfers would not notice them while riding a wave, but they could matter during a collision or a wipeout gone wrong.

Material choice is another path. Many fins are made from stiff composites that do not give under pressure.

Introducing materials that flex just a bit on impact could absorb some of the force. The challenge is to keep that flex predictable, so surfers still get the control they expect.

Detachable or breakaway floatable fin systems are also worth attention. Some designs already allow fins to pop out under extreme force, like, for instance, bindings on wakeboards and skis.

Expanding this idea could prevent part of a fin from staying lodged in a body after impact.

The key is balance. The fin should stay secure during normal surfing but release when the force crosses a certain threshold.

As long as they could float. Isn't that doable?

Lastly, there's always the option to sand the edges down. Not only does it reduce the hums, but it also smoothens out the fins' outline and makes them less dangerous.

Rethinking safety without slowing performance

Protective add-ons exist, but they are often ignored. Fins with rubber edges, for example, should be common in surf schools.

There are some models available in the market, and they prevent cuts. However, experienced surfers rarely use them because they can dull performance.

There is space here for better design, though. A thinner, hydrodynamic guard that only covers the most dangerous edges could appeal to a wider group of surfers.

Visual cues might help as well. Brightly colored fins are easier to spot underwater. That split second of visibility can give a surfer time to react during a wipeout.

It is a small idea, but in chaotic surf, small advantages count.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Duke Kahanamoku is the most influential surfer of all time and is often hailed as the father of modern surfing. There is nearly no one questioning these titles.

Recently, Public Broadcasting Service (PBS) Hawaii unveiled a never-before-seen interview with the legendary surfer and Olympic swimmer.

In the 1966 episode of Pau Hana Years, a seminal Hawaii television program that aired on KHET-TV (now PBS Hawaii) for 16 years, running from 1966 until 1982, Bob Barker chats with Duke Kahanamoku, then 76.

The conversation drifts from royal ancestry to Olympic lanes, from Hollywood sets to a surfboard shaped by hand, tracing the outline of a life that helped define modern surfing and Hawaii's public image in the 20th century.

And if you know little about the man who dreamed of getting surfing into the Olympic Games, this is a precious piece of history.

A name with history, worn casually

The interview starts with Kahanamoku explaining that "Duke" is not a title but his given name, passed down after a visit by the Duke of Edinburgh to Hawaii.

The name, he says, came through family connections, eventually landing on him.

When Barker asks about lineage, Kahanamoku acknowledges deep roots and stories that stretch back generations. He mentions a great-great-grandfather, Hoolae Paoa, remembered as a master fisherman.

There are also family ties, he says, to the Kamehameha line, though he stops short of staking any claim to royalty.

The past is there, but he does not trade on it.

Stockholm, Antwerp, Paris, Los Angeles

The Olympic years arrive in his telling almost as a list of ports.

Stockholm in 1912 was his first. Then Antwerp in 1920, Paris in 1924, and Los Angeles in 1932. He speaks of them without grandstanding, as if they were simply places he went to swim.

In Los Angeles, Duke did not race in the pool but instead played water polo, noting that he was on the first string. The shift says something about his athletic range.

Asked about standout memories, he shrugs off the idea of singular moments. The Olympics were important, clearly, but not something he packages into tidy highlights.

Ten years in the movies

Hollywood held him for about a decade.

Kahanamoku recalls enjoying the work, especially the so-called "Hawaiian pictures," though he appeared in more than a few roles.

"About a half dozen or more," he estimates.

Typecasting did not always hold. In one film, he played a gaucho, dressed for the part and riding horseback.

Elsewhere, he appears alongside recognizable figures of the era, including John Wayne in "The Wake of the Red Witch," and in scenes with Charlie Chaplin, Paulette Goddard, Ronald Colman, and Wallace Beery.

In one still, he is dressed as a chief. In another, he describes himself as a "metropolitan chief," smiling at the phrasing.

The photographs roll by as he narrates them, each image another proof that his life rarely stayed in one lane.

The crawl that traveled

Back in the water, Kahanamoku demonstrates what he calls the Hawaiian crawl. When Barker refers to the Australian crawl, Kahanamoku gently corrects him.

The distinction matters. Techniques travel, names shift, and credit often drifts away from its source. Here, at least, Duke sets the record straight.

He also mentions a distinction that Barker puts plainly: Kahanamoku was the only man to win Olympic gold medals across four separate Games.

Kahanamoku agrees without embellishment.

Boards, weight, and a mile on one wave

If the pool made him famous, the ocean made him essential.

On the beach, he describes the boards he prefers. Big ones. Heavy ones. He speaks of a board he shaped himself, using only his hands as a guide. No measuring tools, no templates. Just touch and experience.

The result weighed 114 pounds.

He recounts riding that board for a mile and an eighth on a single wave. The claim lands without theatrics. For surfers, it reads like a myth with coordinates.

Modern boards, he says, are lighter. Many prefer them. He does not. The old ways, the heavy boards, the long glide, remain his choice.

Friends, protégés, and gentlemen surfers

Kahanamoku points out younger surfers around him, naming figures such as Fred Hemmings. He calls them the best and describes them as protégés of a sort.

What he hopes to pass on is not just skill, but conduct. He wants them to set an example, to be "gentlemen surfers."

It is a phrase that carries weight. In a sport often framed as freedom, he suggests a code.

Boats, names, and a different kind of routine

These days, he says, he spends time around his boat, the Naduke (?) Number Two. The name blends his own with that of his wife, Nadine. He laughs as he explains it.

Fishing, he admits, has taken a back seat. Instead, he travels along the coast, presenting trophies to young competitors. The role has shifted from participant to elder, from racer to representative.

Encounters with power

The photo sequence includes moments with political and cultural figures. He appears with John F. Kennedy at the Honolulu airport and with Ed Sullivan.

There is also a widely circulated image of him greeting the Queen Mother of England, even giving her a hula lesson.

Asked how she performed, he calls her "akamai," clever, and a "wonderful woman."

Fame, in these snapshots, seems to orbit him rather than the other way around.

A hall of fame, and a changing Hawaii

Kahanamoku speaks of an idea for a Hawaii-based hall of fame, one that would include Olympic champions from across the Pacific.

The vision is regional, not just local. He imagines a network of excellence tied together by the ocean.

When Barker asks about modern Hawaii, Kahanamoku does not soften his answer. He does not like it as much as before.

The concrete buildings feel out of place to him. Given the choice, Duke would return to the earlier days of the islands, before the skyline rose.

The remark is brief, almost understated, but it lingers.

In South Africa, apartheid defined public life from 1948 through the early 1990s. The system enforced racial separation at every level.

By the 1960s, much of the world had taken a stand against it.

The country was expelled from the Olympic Games in 1964, and international sports federations followed with broad boycotts.

South African teams were cut off. Foreign athletes were expected to stay away.

Surfing did not follow that path.

There was no strong international body to enforce a ban, and the sport's loose structure made collective action unlikely.

South African contests continued to run, and foreign surfers kept arriving, drawn to the long right-hand walls of Jeffreys Bay and the dependable surf near Durban.

For many, apartheid was treated as background noise, something acknowledged but rarely examined.

Some surfers went further and defended what they saw.

Randy Rarick, visiting South Africa in 1970, offered a blunt assessment after only a short stay.

"They're stoked working for the whites, and taking life with a smile," he said, as quoted by Matt Warshaw's "The History of Surfing."

"Can't see what all the fuss is about, everything is cool here."

His remarks echoed a broader tendency within the sport to accept surface impressions without questioning the system underneath.

Australian world champion Midget Farrelly took a similar line in a 1969 travel piece. He dismissed criticism of apartheid outright, writing that it was "not worth talking about because [everybody has] too many screwed ideas about what's happening in Africa."

He then presented his own version of events, claiming that "the government has protected the black majority," and that Black South Africans in cities "generally [thought] well of the white man."

In the same breath, he described violent tendencies outside cities, reinforcing racial fears rather than questioning them.

These views were not isolated and reflected a culture in surfing that preferred distance from politics.

By the mid-1970s, that attitude had taken on a more formal shape. Many surfers argued that the sport should remain separate from political issues. It was a convenient position, and a popular one.

Shaun Tomson gave this idea its most polished expression. He argued that sports could "rise above the politics of individual nations [and] bring people together."

The statement carried a sense of optimism, and in some cases, surfers did form genuine connections across cultural lines.

But the broader reality did not shift.

Apartheid determined who could enter certain beaches, who could stay in which hotels, and who could move freely through coastal towns.

The idea that surfing existed outside of that system depended on ignoring those facts. For visiting surfers, it was often a choice, sometimes a conscious one.

So, the surf kept pumping. The contradictions stayed just out of frame, at least for a while.

Cracks in the illusion

For visiting surfers, apartheid could be easy to ignore from a distance. Up close, it had a way of interrupting even the most insulated surf trip.

In 1972, Hawaiian big-wave rider Eddie Aikau arrived in Durban to compete in the Gunston 500.

Aikau was already well known in Hawaii, both for his surfing and for his work as a lifeguard at Waimea Bay. In South Africa, his presence exposed the rigid racial lines that structured everyday life.

Aikau was turned away from the Malibu Hotel in Durban.

The reason was simple. His appearance placed him outside the country's definition of "white." The rejection came even though he was an invited competitor in an international surf contest.

According to Matt Warshaw's "The History of Surfing," the situation required quick intervention from event organizers, who arranged alternative lodging.

Aikau ended up staying with the family of Shaun Tomson. Shaun, then just a teenager, surfed with him in the days that followed. The gesture helped smooth over the immediate problem, but it did not resolve the larger one.

Aikau did not stay silent.

In an interview with a Black-owned South African newspaper, he described what he had seen in direct terms.

"The color problem in South Africa, man, is really heavy... I fear walking in the streets."

His words stood in sharp contrast to the tone taken by others in the sport.

Bill Hamilton, who was also in Durban for the event, wrote afterward that "the situation among the dark-skinned people [here] is accepted... They are content with their working positions and the roles they play in society," as quoted in Warshaw's book.

It was the kind of statement that reassured readers who preferred not to question what they were seeing.

These conflicting accounts revealed a growing divide. Some surfers experienced apartheid as a distant abstraction. Others felt its force directly.

The same year, Hawaiian pro Jeff Hakman and Bill Hamilton had checked into the same hotel that denied Aikau entry, without incident.

The contrast did not go unnoticed.

It showed how racial classification shaped even the most basic aspects of a surf trip, from where you slept to where you could walk.

Passive awareness

By the mid-1970s, more surfers were aware of these contradictions, but awareness did not always lead to action.

Instead, a common response was to draw a line between surfing and politics. The idea was repeated often enough that it became a kind of shield.

Shaun Tomson expressed it in its most polished form, arguing that sport could "rise above the politics of individual nations [and] bring people together."

The statement carried weight, coming from a world champion and one of South Africa's most visible athletes. But even Tomson's position reflected the limits of the moment.

Surfing could create brief moments of connection in the water. It could not change the laws on land.

The Aikau incident faded quickly from surf media coverage. Competitions continued. Visiting surfers kept arriving. For many, the draw of perfect waves outweighed the discomfort of the political setting.

Still, something had shifted. The belief that surfing existed outside of politics was becoming harder to maintain.

The evidence was there, in hotel lobbies, on segregated beaches, and in the words of surfers who chose to speak about what they saw.

The tension would build slowly over the next decade, before breaking into the open in the mid-1980s.

1985 and the boycott that split surfing

By the mid-1980s, apartheid was no longer something surfers could sidestep with a shrug.

Outside of surfing, pressure on South Africa had intensified. Economic sanctions were growing. Cultural and sporting boycotts had become the norm.

Athletes who chose to compete there risked being placed on a United Nations blacklist alongside figures like Jack Nicklaus, Greg Norman, and Billie Jean King.

Surfing had largely escaped that scrutiny. In 1985, that changed.

At the Bells Beach contest in Australia, reigning world champion Tom Carroll announced that he would boycott the South African leg of the pro tour.

It was a sharp break from the sport's usual silence. Carroll had competed in South Africa several times. What he saw there stayed with him.

In his autobiography, he recalled a conversation that cut through any attempt at denial.

"The father of a guy I surfed with there once told me we were lucky in Australia... [because] all our Aborigines had been killed."

Carroll also knew of incidents involving other surfers. Dane Kealoha had been ordered out of a whites-only restaurant in Durban. Another Hawaiian surfer had been assaulted for speaking to a white woman.

Carroll framed his decision in simple terms. It was, he said, "a basic humanitarian stand."

The reaction inside surfing was immediate and tense.

The next day, at a banquet for the Australian Surfing Hall of Fame in Torquay, the issue exploded in public.

Shaun Tomson goes political

Shaun Tomson, now a former world champion and a leading figure in the surf industry, took the stage to accept an award. He had rewritten his speech that afternoon.

Facing a room filled with surfers, media, and industry figures, Tomson went on the offensive.

"Suddenly, the surfers have principles. Suddenly, we have political aspirations," he said, and according to surf historian Matt Warshaw, his tone edged with sarcasm.

He argued that if surfers began boycotting South Africa, where would it stop? Should they also boycott the United States for its foreign policy, or the United Kingdom for its actions in Northern Ireland?

"Where will it all end?" Tomson asked. "It will end with the destruction of pro surfing as we know it!"

The divide was clear. For some, like Tomson, the boycott threatened the stability of the sport itself; for others, it was long overdue.

Carroll was not alone for long. Tom Curren, Cheyne Horan, and Martin Potter all joined the boycott.

Potter's decision carried particular weight. He was South African, a rising star, and widely seen as the heir to Tomson's place in the sport.

Potter's perspective came from direct experience.

He had seen apartheid enforced not just in daily life, but in the water. He spoke about Black surfers being arrested for entering whites-only beaches in Durban. His account gave the boycott a level of urgency that abstract arguments could not match.

Journalist Phil Jarratt captured the moment in Surfer magazine.

"There was a time when sporting organizations could fence-sit on apartheid, but it has long since passed," he wrote.

"The ASP cannot win in South Africa. There is no forward position. Retreat is the only honorable stance."

ASP chooses silence

The Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP), led by Ian Cairns, did not agree. The tour went ahead as planned.

Cairns offered a blunt justification: "We don't have a political policy."

That stance held, even as conditions in South Africa worsened. In 1985, the government declared a state of emergency amid widespread unrest. International sanctions tightened.

The country's currency dropped sharply, reducing prize money at surf contests below the minimum required for official sanctioning.

None of it stopped the tour.

What did change was the atmosphere around it. More surfers began to pull out. Some magazines reduced or dropped coverage of South African events.

The boycott did not shut down competition, but it fractured the sport's sense of unity.

For the first time, apartheid was not a distant issue in surfing. It was a dividing line, running through contest sites, magazine pages, and the careers of the surfers themselves.

Quiet protests and the changing lineup

After 1985, the boycott did not shut down surfing in South Africa, but it changed the tone of the sport.

The arguments had been made in public. The divisions were clear. What followed was less dramatic, but no less telling.

Some surfers who had supported the boycott stayed away. Others returned, sometimes with gestures that hinted at unease.

In 1986, Cheyne Horan arrived in South Africa with a message written across his surfboard: "Free Mandela."

The slogan referred to Nelson Mandela, who at the time was still imprisoned after more than two decades.

Horan's act caused a stir. It was visible, impossible to ignore, and unusual in a sport that had long preferred silence.

The professional tour, however, continued its annual visits. The ASP held its line.

Boycotts and civil rights movements explode

Even as more surfers opted out, enough competitors showed up to keep the events running. Prize money remained low. International attention was uneven.

Some surf magazines, including Surfer, began to step back from covering South African contests altogether.

Inside the country, a different shift was taking place.

Surfing under apartheid had always been segregated, like everything else. Beaches were divided by race, and access was tightly controlled.

Black surfers faced restrictions that went far beyond competition. In some cases, they risked arrest simply for entering the water at the wrong place.

That reality, described by Martin Potter during the boycott debate, remained in place through much of the 1980s.

By the end of the decade, new efforts were emerging to challenge that system from within.

The nonracial South African Surfing Union was formed to create opportunities for surfers excluded by apartheid laws.

One of its early standouts was Cass Collier, a young regular-footer from Cape Town. Collier was the son of one of the country's first Black surfers, and his presence on the competitive scene marked a break from the past.

In 1989, Collier became South Africa's first nonwhite surfer to compete on the ASP world tour. It was a small moment in global terms, but a significant one inside the sport.

For decades, international contests in South Africa had taken place against a backdrop of exclusion. Collier's entry did not erase that history, but it pointed toward something different.

The contradictions, however, did not disappear.

Some surfers continued to argue that boycotts were ineffective. In 1990, American pro Wes Laine spoke openly about his decision to compete in South Africa.

"I loved South Africa, [and] couldn't not go there, because the waves are just too good," he told Surfing magazine.

He dismissed the idea that a boycott could influence politics, saying it would not have "any impact... period."

The death of apartheid

Laine's comments followed him.

Later that year, he was scheduled to compete in a contest in Barbados, a country with strong ties to the anti-apartheid movement.

After his remarks became known, event organizers refused him entry. The backlash surprised him. He responded with anger, threatening to organize a boycott of his own.

The episode showed how much the landscape had shifted. A few years earlier, such comments might have passed without notice.

By 1990, they carried consequences.

Through all of this, surfing's long-standing belief in its own separation from politics continued to erode. Writers inside the sport had already begun to question that idea.

In 1984, surf journalist Brian Gillogly described surfing as a temporary escape.

"It is only within the act of riding the wave that the surfer... loses his shackles. Once he sets foot back on terra firma, the whole mess begins."

The "mess" had always been there. During the apartheid years, surfing simply took longer than most sports to confront it.

By the early 1990s, the system that shaped these tensions was beginning to collapse.

Apartheid laws were dismantled. Nelson Mandela was released from prison. International sanctions began to lift.

Surfing, like the rest of the sporting world, moved into a new era, carrying with it the memory of a time when perfect waves broke alongside deep injustice.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

An iconic urban surf break in Portugal is reaching one of its final chapters.

In March 2019, SurferToday ran a feature on the controversial decision to extend a breakwater in Matosinhos, Portugal, one of Europe's most popular and frequented surf breaks.

At the time, the Portuguese government had approved and sponsored a structural change to the southern breakwater of a port near Matosinhos Beach, just a mile from the UNESCO World Heritage city of Porto.

The idea of adding a 985-foot (300-meter) stone wall, according to the port authority and the national government in Lisbon, would allow larger container ships to dock at the Port of Leixões, the country's second-largest port.

In other words, the port would be able to continue growing and increasing its activity despite being completely surrounded by cities and residential areas.

The extension of any breakwater worldwide always carries significant consequences.

Just ask the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE), which is responsible for over 600 breakwaters and jetties nationwide, many dating back to the mid- to late 1800s.

The number of variables at stake when you build even the smallest structure is mindblowing. From shifting sands and dune erosion to currents and tidal effects, there is nearly anything that one of these coastal barriers won't impact.

And the Portuguese coastline is no exception.

A post-industrial surf break

Matosinhos Beach, a generous stretch of sand perfectly integrated into the urban context, has been the go-to summer destination for many water sports enthusiasts and ocean lovers in Greater Porto.

And thanks to its geographical orientation, it receives the predominant NW swells and winds at the right angle to produce consistent, all-level waves, nearly every single day of the year.

Matosinhos has bred thousands of Portuguese surfers, some of them talented enough to shine anywhere in the world, in all sorts of conditions.

With the growth of tourism, and surfing in particular, it has become a truly international beach and lineup, with hundreds of foreigners paddling out at this multiple-peak beach break, regardless of experience.

In terra firma, there is no lack of fancy restaurants, brunch corners, cafeterias, ice cream stores, healthy living businesses, and high-end co-work spaces. And residential buildings - maybe too many.

So, the area became an extremely popular place for young adults and adults alike.

Out in the water, on a good day for surfing, you may easily count a thousand surfers from 7 am to 10 am.

Many locals grew up surfing here, especially from the late 1980s, early 1990s onward.

Meanwhile, the surroundings changed dramatically, and dozens of expensive condos were built to accommodate the demand.

Where there were canned tuna and other fishing industries, there are now luxurious apartments with a price per square meter that rivals Europe's most expensive capitals.

The number of surf schools operating here also grew exponentially, and the city became an unlikely urban surf destination.

"World's Best Fish" in contaminated waters

All this, au pair with the town's suspicious motto, "World's Best Fish," a claim you would certainly not expect from a port city, where the local waters are never supposed to be transparent and clean.

Despite the just-average water quality at nearby beaches, conditions have improved slightly over the decades, with the neighboring city of Porto doing a tremendous job with its sewage and rainwater systems and subsequently conquering the sought-after Blue Flag beach trophy.

But Matosinhos, which has been ruled by the same party since the democratic era arrived in Portugal in 1974, struggled to do the same with its waters.

One of the beach's cancers is Ribeira da Riguinha e Ribeira de Carcavelos, a stream that carries treated and untreated, legal and illegal, water for decades, which ends up in the surfers' and swimmers' area.

The problem has been identified, but there has never been an in-depth investment in resolving the issue.

Over the years, the water quality tests ranged from very poor to average and good. Stability has never been the norm.

The number of cases of surf-related diseases like gastroenteritis reported by local (and foreign) surfers here is countless, along with skin issues.

It has been a known public health threat for a long time, but the quality of the surf often conflicts with the clear instructions not to get in these waters.

And therefore, surfers always put their safety at risk.

Sorry, we're open

Now, here's a Third World finding.

The Matosinhos seaside boardwalk features a permanent warning sign advising against surfing or swimming due to poor water quality.

In theory, it should be equivalent to a closed beach.

However, the city issues bathing zone permits with lifeguard patrols every summer, from June through September.

And thousands of beachgoers just lay their towels on the sand and go for a dip whenever the green flag is waving in the wind.

There's more. City officials plan to build a pipeline extension to divert the untreated waters 600 yards offshore.

In other words, they're sending polluted waters out to sea, not addressing the source of the problem, and potentially diverting sewage toward the nearby southern beaches of Porto.

The contradiction lives on, along with the health issues young and old face after ingesting this water.

With the completion of the 985-foot-long extension of the breakwater, the potential consequences noted by SurferToday in 2019 and again in 2021 became a reality.

In the summer of 2025, the Portuguese Environmental Agency (APA) closed the beach to swimming and surfing on more than a dozen occasions.

The prohibitions were soon lifted whenever water sample tests were barely looking better.

And so the Matosinhos Beach was on and off in the warm season, in one of the worst water quality years of the last few decades.

The outcome was expected.

Also, the fact that there will be an even more enclosed bay beach at the exit of a large port will never result in better water quality.

A breakwater extension that halved the surf

And if we talk about the swell arrival conditions, the first impressions report a loss of surf in the 40-60 percent range.

In other words, surfers are less in the water because the consistency that once made it famous is now decaying.

There are also more dangerous currents, especially near the breakwater, with unexpected backwash movements, which have already resulted in fatalities.

But there will be more and more negative consequences of simultaneously trying to make a pact with the devil and keeping the tourism and sports afloat.

With more and larger ships entering and leaving the port, the risk of accidents also increases.

In 2023, an oil tanker caught fire on the outskirts of the city, and environmental tragedy was on everyone's minds. Fortunately, the impact was contained.

The Port of Leixões is pushing for even more industrial impact on the neighboring residential communities.

A larger container parking area inside the structure and the construction of a marina by the breaker and the beach raised concerns, prompting protests and petitions from the population.

In fact, the possibility of ending Matosinhos Beach's status as an officially sanctioned beach is, as surreal and unthinkable as it might sound, at stake and under study.

On the other side of the barricade, there's Port of Leixões, an entity that claims that halting the expansion of the facility is boosting the national economy and that the structure "was always there before the city grew around it."

It's with arguments like these that the local populations can count on.

And then, with the last call being made 330 kilometers away, in the air-conditioned offices of the government in Lisbon, locals know that their opinion doesn't count and that their council authority's voice is too weak or too compromised to be heard or effective in bringing about change in favor of the population.

Jardim do Mar, part II

It reminds us of another world-class wave Portugal lost forever. Jardim do Mar, on the island of Madeira, was one of the planet's best point breaks.

It was destroyed nearly overnight with the construction of a seawall that killed the wave that broke there like magic.

The decision made headlines around the world and even triggered the birth of Save the Wave Coalition.

Nearly 25 years later, Portugal, a nation of sun, beaches, history, and food that sells itself as a tourism destination, is ready to lose another gem.

And even if you take surfing out of the equation, citizen-led movements like "Diz Não ao Paredão" ("Say No to the Breakwater") and non-governmental organizations such as Surfrider Porto and Zero underscore the beach's future unviability for bathing.

It's democracy and people at the heart of a politician's mission at its best, just like the coastal waters of Matosinhos, the home to the "World's Best Fish."

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

It's one of the few Australian regions where you'll barely find a wave noted on a surf break guide. We chased the answer to an old question: Is it possible to surf the Northern Territory (NT)? If so, where could we find waves?

The NT has nearly 7,000 miles (11,000 kilometers) of coastline and 1,488 beaches.

According to the Surf Life Saving Northern Territory, "more than 200 of these beaches are classified as 'surf beaches.'"

However, unlike every other region in Australia, we rarely hear anyone talking or writing about the quality of the waves in "The Top End."

Why aren't there any reports of the surf up north? Isn't it closer to Indonesia than to any of the other six federated states? It should get enough swell to light up some of those 200 beaches, right?

Well, it's tricky. There are several reasons why NT is not the most inhabited region Downunder.

Large and scarcely inhabited

The Northern Territory (NT) covers approximately 17.5 percent of Australia's total landmass. It's a vast area and certainly larger than many countries around the world.

However, it is home to just one percent of the Australian population, or around 250,000 people.

The youngest population in the country lives in tropical (north) and semi-arid (south) regions, with extreme temperatures, including record highs of 118.9 °F (48.3 °C) and record lows of 18.5 °F (-7.5 °C).

So, it's a land of extreme everything, despite being part of a nation where 90 percent of people live in coastal areas.

Living at the Top End is not easy, which probably explains why the Northern Territory's largest city is Darwin, with a population of just 85,500.

NT's coastline is facing the Arafura Sea in the Western Pacific Ocean.

So, why don't we hear more about epic swells and tropical surf adventures from this part of Australia? Is it simply unsurfable?

The right and wisest answer should probably be "No, but."

No, the Northern Territory is not unrideable from a surfing perspective. Still, the conditions are harsh, and the good wave-riding days are rare and profoundly dependent on a few weather conditions.

That said, we will highlight a handful of surf breaks that cover over 95 percent of all the fun surf you might encounter in the north of Australia.

They're mostly focused on two main areas: Darwin and Arnhem.

But before we proceed to the surf spot analysis, let's learn a few relevant details about the Northern Territory's surfing background.

Geography and a coast that blocks itself

The map gives away part of the answer.

The Northern Territory faces the Arafura Sea, but it does not sit open to long, clean swell lines like the southern states.

To the northeast, Papua New Guinea and nearby island chains interrupt much of the energy that would otherwise travel across the Pacific.

What remains is weak and inconsistent by the time it reaches shore. Sad, but true. It's like living in a luxury condo (the Pacific Ocean) in a flat with no windows.

Much of the coastline is low-lying and lined with mangroves.

Arnhem Land, especially along its far northeast edge, can see small and uneven waves, but they rarely organize into anything surfers would recognize as a proper break.

The Gulf of Carpentaria is even more sheltered, acting like a giant inland sea where swell simply does not build in a meaningful way.

That's why the surf map of Australia feels like it skips a section. NT is like the surfing outcast Downunder.

So, once you move north past Queensland's last reliable breaks, the next place where waves are surfed with any regularity is really around Darwin. Everything in between is largely quiet, with maybe an exception: Arnhem.

Bathymetry, tides, and the shape of the seafloor

Even when a swell does arrive, the ocean floor has its own say. And in NT's case, it doesn't help much.

The Northern Territory sits on a wide continental shelf, and the seabed slopes very gently away from the coast, killing wave energy before it can stand up and break with any force.

The tides complicate things further.

Northern Australia experiences some of the largest tidal movements on the planet, ranging from about four meters to nearly 12 meters.

These swings control everything. At low tide, waves can disappear into shallow flats. At high tide, they lose what little shape they had.

There is often only a short window where the water depth lines up just right for a rideable wave.

Darwin's beaches depend entirely on that timing.

When it works, the waves are small and soft, breaking over sand in water that is often murky and brown.

Swell and weather: waiting on the right storm

The Northern Territory does not receive steady groundswells. Surf here depends on weather systems that are close, messy, and often unpredictable.

Most rideable waves come during the wet season (December and March), when tropical lows or cyclones form offshore.

These systems generate short-period windswells that push directly into the coast. The result is uneven surf with little shape.

Locals describe it as "storm waves without any clear pattern."

Forecasting is simple in theory.

A low-pressure system needs to sit to the north or northwest, or a cyclone must track in the right direction. When that happens, a small window opens. Without it, the ocean stays flat.

The same storms that bring waves also bring heavy rain and strong onshore winds. The water turns brown, visibility drops, and whatever swell exists becomes even harder to read.

When to surf the Top End

The season is short and easy to miss.

Most surfers in Darwin wait for a month or two during the wet season, usually between December and March. It's when cyclones are most likely to form and push swell toward the coast.

Even then, the number of surfable days is limited. There may be a handful of decent sessions and a few more that are barely worth the effort.

Locals know this and adjust their expectations. Some paddle out on Christmas Day if there is anything resembling a wave

Others wait for stronger storms, knowing the odds are slim.

Outside of this window, the ocean offers very little. The dry season brings calmer weather and near-flat seas.

Hazards in the water

The lack of perfect waves is only part of the story. The water itself demands attention as it is part of a problem.

Saltwater crocodiles patrol these coasts. They are quiet, fast, and difficult to spot in the murky water.

One Darwin surfer recalled turning around mid-session to find a three-meter crocodile stalking him from a short distance away.

And it was not his first close call.

Box jellyfish drift through the same waters during the wet season. Their sting can be fatal. Encounters are rare but real, and even a brief contact can leave lasting damage.

But there's more, unfortunately.

Tiger sharks are also part of the picture, drawn by the abundance of marine life along the coast.

Add to that floating debris from mangroves, reduced visibility in brown water, and strong tidal currents, and the lineup becomes a place where awareness matters as much as skill.

Despite all this, a small group of surfers still paddles out.

In Darwin, they attract curious crowds after storms. People gather along the foreshore, watching and sometimes laughing at the idea of surfing in such conditions.

Up in Nhulunbuy, a quieter but committed surf community keeps the habit alive.

For those who live there, the appeal is less about perfect waves and more about catching something rideable in a place where the ocean rarely cooperates.

And maybe the thrill of sharing that moment with a handful of others makes it actually truly special.

Where to surf in Australia's Northern Territory

Now, here's the part where we share some good news.

As we've noted above, Northern Territory surfing sits in a strange corner of Australia's wave culture, where tides, monsoons, and marine hazards shape everything more than swell charts do.

Nevertheless, if you pay attention to the swell forecast near Darwin and Arnhem, you might be lucky and have some fun in the NT surf.

Around Darwin, the coastline faces the relatively enclosed Timor Sea, so most of the year is flat, and whatever surf does appear is usually generated by wet-season storms rather than distant groundswells.

That means timing is everything, and even the better-known Darwin breaks feel opportunistic rather than reliable.

Nightcliff Beach begins to hint at rideable waves, but only just.

The coastline here mixes rock platforms and sand, and during the monsoon season, when cyclonic systems or squalls push short-period swell toward the coast, small, inconsistent waves can break along the foreshore.

These are typically weak and wind-affected, but occasionally clean up under favorable winds.

We cannot emphasize enough its seasonal and highly variable nature, with surf appearing more as a byproduct of weather than as a dependable feature.

Also, in some areas, you might be invited by the authorities to leave the water, as the presence of crocs and sharks could be putting your life at risk.

The most credible Darwin-area surf develops at Casuarina Beach, an exposed stretch inside Casuarina Coastal Reserve that faces more directly into whatever swell the Timor Sea can produce.

Even here, though, the waves depend heavily on wet-season conditions and the alignment of winds, particularly easterlies that can briefly groom the surface.

It is the most reliable surf option near Darwin, with beach-break peaks forming when storm energy coincides with workable tides, although the same sources stress that this reliability is relative rather than absolute.

The tidal influence remains a defining factor, with large swings reshaping the sandbanks and determining whether waves break cleanly or not at any given time.

Between Nightcliff and Casuarina, Rapid Creek offers a more interesting setup from a surf perspective, because the creek mouth can create shifting sandbars and interact with the underlying reef and rock.

The combination produces slightly more consistent peaks during the wet season, especially around January when storm activity is highest.

It is one of the more dependable Darwin options under the right conditions, particularly when offshore winds from the south or southeast align with incoming swell.

Even so, the waves remain short-lived and highly sensitive to tide and wind, reinforcing the idea that Darwin surfing is about catching windows rather than following patterns.

The character of Northern Territory surfing changes significantly further east on the Gove Peninsula near Nhulunbuy, where exposure to the Arafura Sea and Coral Sea trade systems improves consistency.

At Town Beach (Gadalathami), the coastline faces east and receives more regular wind swell, producing waves that are smaller than those in southern Australia but far more dependable than anything near Darwin.

Beach safety and regional data indicate that waves around six feet (around one meter) are typical, and the presence of a surf lifesaving club and seasonal patrols reflects a more established surf environment.

Compared to Darwin, it feels more like a functional surf beach rather than an occasional novelty wave.

Nearby, Little Bondi Beach (Baringura) represents the more remote and arguably more rewarding side of NT surfing.

With fewer crowds and cleaner exposure, it can produce higher-quality waves when conditions align, benefiting from the same regional swell patterns as Town Beach but without the same level of development or oversight.

If relative consistency and isolation sound good - despite the ever-present crocodiles and stingers - this could be one of your best options to surf in Australia's Northern Territory.

But never underestimate the marine hazards. Always play it conservatively and stay safe.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

The image is quite familiar. A lifeguard in red and yellow is scanning the horizon. Everything looks calm from a distance, right?

But the job, especially in low-resource regions, is closer to a Wall Street risk management activity than you'd think.

We might be exaggerating a bit here, but you get the message. A lifeguard has people's lives under his watch.

So, what exactly are the responsibilities of a lifeguard? What makes a surf rescuer a good professional? And what are their red flags and don'ts?

The Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) is one of the most prestigious lifesaving institutions on the planet.

It was founded in 1824 in the United Kingdom.

RNLI's lifeguard manual makes one thing clear from the start: lifeguarding is not about reacting to emergencies but about preventing them from happening in the first place.

We took a thorough read of the document and gathered the dos and don'ts for professional beach lifeguards that could very well apply to water safety professionals worldwide.

The following lines help beach users and aspiring and current lifeguards to know a bit more about an ocean rescuer's outstanding duties and respectable authority.

The problem beneath the surface

Too many people drown every year across the planet.

Drowning is defined as a process in which breathing is impaired due to being underwater. It can happen quickly, often without noise or dramatic signs. What makes it more dangerous is how predictable it is.

There is a chain that leads to drowning.

It begins with people not understanding the risks around them. It continues when they are free to access those risks without restriction. It deepens when no one is watching, and it ends when the person can no longer cope in the water.

A lifeguard's job is to break that chain early.

Sometimes that means stopping a child from wandering into deep water. Sometimes it means warning a group of visitors about a rip current they cannot see. Often, it means acting before anyone realizes there is danger.

Certain people face a greater risk.

Children, non-swimmers, visitors unfamiliar with the beach, fishermen, older individuals, and those under the influence of alcohol are all more likely to get into trouble.

But the lesson that shapes every patrol is simpler than any list - anyone can drown.

The shape of the role

A lifeguard is responsible for a defined area of beach and water, and for every person who enters it. You've probably noticed that at your local beaches.

That responsibility moves through three stages.

First comes prevention, then response to developing situations, and finally rescue and emergency care when things go wrong.

Most of the work sits in that first stage.

It involves setting safe swimming areas, speaking to beach users, adjusting to changing conditions, and keeping a constant watch.

Rescue is only the visible edge of a much larger task. In a perfect scenario, it never takes place.

The job demands a particular kind of person, someone observant enough to notice a subtle change in a swimmer's movement.

Calm enough to manage conflict without escalation.

They should be fit enough to run, swim, and tow another person through moving water and reliable enough that others trust them without question.

Even appearance matters.

The red and yellow uniform has a reason to look like that. It is a striking signal, designed to be seen from a distance, reassuring to those who need help and unmistakable to those who might ignore advice.

You barely miss a lifeguard at a crowded beach. Those colors are just too flashy not to stand out.

Working inside a moving environment

You might have never thought about it, but the beach is not a fixed place.

It shifts with the weather, the tide, and the shape of the seabed. A lifeguard learns to read these changes as they happen.

For instance, wind direction alone can alter the level of danger.

When it blows offshore, it can carry inflatable objects and the people holding onto them away from land. When it blows onshore, it can turn the water into uneven, choppy surf that overwhelms weaker swimmers.

Waves are also in a league of their own.

Some break gently and are relatively safe. Others collapse with force, capable of knocking a person down or causing injury. Some do not break at all, surging forward and dragging people into deeper water.

And then, rip currents are the most deceptive hazard. They form channels that pull water back out to sea.

To an untrained eye, they may look like calm water, but to a lifeguard, they stand out through subtle signs such as darker patches, irregular wave patterns, or foam moving steadily offshore.

The shape of the beach matters just as much.

A steep slope can turn shallow water into deep water within a step. A hole in the sand can drop a child suddenly below the surface. Rocks, river mouths, and harbors each introduce their own risks, from strong currents to hidden obstacles.

Finally, tides complete the picture.

A safe path can disappear within minutes as water rises. Hazards that were visible can vanish beneath the surface. A lifeguard keeps track of all of it, often without pause.

Have you ever looked at a beach from this perspective?

Watching without missing anything

Observation is the quiet core of the job.

A lifeguard may be responsible for hundreds of people at once, but it is impossible to watch everyone individually, so they scan.

The process is constant and deliberate.

Eyes move across the water, then back again, checking positions, counting heads, and noting behavior. Lifeguards rotate positions regularly to avoid fatigue and maintain focus.

What they are looking for is not always obvious.

A weak swimmer might call for help or struggle to move forward. A non-swimmer might make frantic movements but remain silent, focused only on keeping their head above water. An injured person might stay still, holding part of their body. An unconscious person might float face down or disappear entirely.

It's like they're in a "Where's Waldo?" comic book.

And the window to act can be very short. In some cases, a person may submerge in less than 20 seconds.

In other words, a life lost in under a minute.

Creating order on an open beach

That's why, to manage risk, lifeguards create structure where none exists. They define patrol zones and mark the safest areas using beach warning flags.

The red and yellow flags signal where it is safest to swim. A red flag warns that conditions are too dangerous to enter the water at all.

These zones are not permanent. They shift with the conditions.

A rip current that forms in the afternoon may require the entire swimming area to move. The lifeguard must always be confident that a rescue can be carried out within the zone they have defined.

Timing is part of this structure as well.

Patrols are arranged when people are most likely to use the beach. In hotter regions, that often means early mornings and late afternoons.

Interesting, right?

Communication that carries across distance

This topic is really important.

On a beach, distance and noise make communication difficult, so lifeguards rely on a mix of voice, signals, and simple tools.

A whistle becomes a language of its own.

A single blast draws attention. Two blasts call another lifeguard. Three will signal that an emergency is underway. Hand signals reinforce messages when voices cannot carry.

But the most important communication happens face to face.

Lifeguards explain risks, give advice, and sometimes persuade people to change their plans. It's a communication that requires calmness, clarity, and respect, even when the message is unwelcome.

They must do it, and beach users must be open and listen to them.

Lifeguards are there to help and protect, not to be an authoritarian figure.

The moment a rescue begins

However, when prevention fails, the situation shifts quickly. RNLI's guidelines teach a structured approach: stop, think, act, and review.

And believe it or not, that first pause (stop) matters. It allows the lifeguard to assess what is happening, where the casualty is, and what dangers are present.

The truth is, every rescue involves risk.

Therefore, the lifeguard must weigh that risk against the chance of success. The rule is straightforward: their own safety comes first, followed by their team, then the casualty.

Whenever possible, the rescue stays on land.

A shout or a clear signal may be enough to guide someone back to safety. And then reaching with an object or throwing a flotation aid reduces risk further.

Entering the water is a last resort, used only when necessary.

In low-resource settings or underdeveloped regions, creativity becomes part of the job. For instance, a simple floating container can replace specialized equipment, providing enough buoyancy to support a person in distress.

If a swim rescue is required, the situation becomes more dangerous. A panicking casualty may grab the rescuer. Waves and currents add difficulty.

Consequently, the lifeguard must approach carefully, often from behind, and use techniques that allow them to control the situation without being overwhelmed.

Bringing someone back

Reaching the casualty is only half the task; getting them safely to shore is just as critical.

The lifeguard must keep the person's airway clear at all times, especially when waves are breaking. Different towing methods are used depending on whether the casualty is conscious, injured, or unconscious.

Some techniques prioritize control, others efficiency, but all aim to move the person while minimizing risk.

Once near shore, the effort often becomes a team activity.

Other lifeguards, or even members of the public, may assist in lifting and moving the casualty. The method depends on the situation, the condition of the casualty, and the nature of the beach.

Luckily, there could be a doctor, nurse, or paramedic nearby who could assist the victim.

If the person can walk, they are supported. If not, they may be dragged or carried, always with care to protect the head and spine and to avoid further injury.

After the water

The rescue does not end on the sand, as the casualty may need immediate first aid.

They must be moved to a safe position, away from rising tides and waves. If they are unconscious, maintaining an open airway becomes urgent.

Afterward, the incident is recorded in detail.

Information about what happened, where it occurred, and how it was handled helps improve future responses and identify patterns of risk.

Serious incidents are followed by a debrief. Lifeguards talk through what happened and how they responded.

These conversations are about improving performance, but they also help manage the emotional impact of the job, which can linger long after the beach has emptied.

Teaching as part of the job

In many parts of the world, the lifeguard is also a teacher.

They explain what the flags mean. They point out hazards. They speak to children, visitors, and locals alike.

Sometimes it happens in schools or community spaces. Often, it happens in passing, a quick conversation that changes someone's decision before it becomes dangerous.

In places where water safety knowledge is limited, this role is essential. It extends the reach of the lifeguard beyond the patrol zone.

All of the actions and behaviors identified above are part of most lifeguard training and certification across the world.

What must never happen

Time for the don'ts of the job. And this is really important, as there are boundaries that define the profession as clearly as any skill.

A lifeguard cannot be under the influence of alcohol or drugs while on duty. Judgment and reaction time must remain sharp at all times.

Also, they cannot abandon their patrol or lose concentration, even briefly.

They cannot ignore changing conditions or take unnecessary risks that could turn one emergency into two.

They are expected to remain calm, even in conflict, and to treat the public with respect while maintaining authority.

The job depends on trust, and that trust is built through consistent behavior.

A lifeguard's daily duties are highly demanding, and that's what makes them a valuable contribution to society and people whose job must be respected and cherished.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Imagine having a robot shooting your surf in the ocean, instead of having to ask your partner to be there for hours filming the waves you weren't even able to ride and finish off.

Surf REC is an automated surf recording station that tracks and follows each and every wave you take off on at your local surf break.

The robotic cameras installed just by the beach capture all your ridden waves and send them to your account, so you can watch them on your smartphone, tablet, or computer.

From there, you may choose to get your rides analyzed and scrutinized by professional surf coaches from all over the world, so that they can share tips and suggestions on how to improve your surf.

Surf REC is a small structure equipped with several cameras and an electronic kiosk facing the lineup.

"We developed a robotic camera that automatically ensures the filming operation guided by a bracelet device that the surfer carries on his arm into the water," explains Paulo Alvito, co-founder and technology developer at Surf REC.

The robot that tracks and films your surf

The idea for Surf REC dates back to 2013, when its founder, Afonso Maya, considered creating a device that could easily track recreational surfers' waves so they could see themselves and find ways to improve their technique.

The cam sharing solution for surfers is simple to use.

Users download an app, create an account, and then log in at the kiosk on the beach, before collecting the bracelet and going surfing for as long as they wish.

As soon as the bracelet is returned, the surfer can immediately download the videos.

The pay-per-use auto-tracking solution can capture surfers up to 2,000 feet (600 meters) away from the cameras.

Sessions can be shot in solo mode (one user, one camera) or dual mode (two users, one camera).

The shooting cost is calculated per minute of usage, that is, €0.25 per minute (€15 per hour) for the solo mode only, for now.

The dual mode will be available soon and allows a friend or a stranger to get a 20 percent discount on the rate for each user.

Surf REC aims to offer more options in the future, including 4K resolution and two image framing options.

The surf clips are automatically deleted after 90 days to ensure our platform runs efficiently and securely.

All sessions are open for booking during daylight hours.

However, the team at Surf REC set aside some camera downtime for occasional maintenance, ensuring the structure is in top-notch shape for your next surf recording session.

A pay-per-use service for recreational surfers

Ultimately, the service aims to improve 99 percent of worldwide surfers, i.e., the non-professional surfing community.

"If you think you're not good enough to see yourself filmed, then how are you going to get better?" explains Surf REC co-founder and pro surfer, José Ferreira.

"So, the more of a beginner you are, the sooner you need to see yourself on film to get better."

"In some people's minds, you just want to film to get your best waves, but that's not really the case."

"If you want to do well on that wave, you definitely need to analyze bad days or just normal days."

As a pro surfer, I knew how analyzing bad days helped me to evolve a lot in the better days. Obviously, free surfers don't need or want to be pros, but I'm sure that people who surf want to progress because that will allow them to have more fun."

The first Surf REC shooting station was installed at the world-class point break of Ribeira d'Ilhas in Ericeira, Portugal, and another one followed in Carcavelos.

However, the team behind the Portuguese startup plans to soon expand its network to some of the country's busiest surf spots: Matosinhos, Porto, Peniche, Santa Cruz, Sintra, Costa da Caparica, Aljezur, and Sagres.

The time when beach surf cams were only used by surfers to check the conditions reached a new stage. Now, you can use them to improve your skills.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

A short video has stirred a long-running argument in 21st-century surfing. A e-foiler vs. surfer dispute over right of way and priority on a wave generated multiple opposing perspectives and lines of thought.

In the incident, an electric hydrofoil rider glides along the shoulder of a wave, well before it breaks. He has been riding for about 30 seconds.

As he nears the lineup, a shortboard surfer takes off closer to the peak, where the wave begins to curl. The two approach each other on the same wall of water.

They hesitate, neither fully yielding. Both end up in the whitewater.

The e-foiler later claimed he had priority because he had been on the wave for more than 30 seconds. That idea, simple on its face, has not been received kindly.

What the informal rules actually say

Surfing has few (un)written yet informal rules, but one principle is nearly universal. The surfer closest to the peak, the part of the wave that is breaking first, has priority.

The guideline is how most surfers avoid collisions when multiple people paddle for the same wave.

That same rule does not depend on who stood up first or who has been riding longer. It is about position.

A wave can be entered at different points along its face, especially at beach breaks and point breaks.

So the guideline, which makes all sense, says that someone deeper, closer to where the wave is steepest, has the right of way.

In the video that spread online, the shortboarder is positioned in that critical zone. The e-foiler is riding the shoulder, the softer, less steep part of the wave.

So, by standard etiquette, the shortboarder holds priority.

 

 

 

 

Ver esta publicação no Instagram

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Uma publicação partilhada por NICKA (@nicka35)

The motor changes the equation

Electric hydrofoils are not just another modern surfboard. They use a battery-powered motor and a submerged wing that lifts the board above the water.

The high-tech setup allows riders to catch waves earlier, often before they break, and to stay on them much longer than a paddling surfer can.

That advantage is at the heart of the conflict.

An e-foil rider can connect sections, glide through flat spots, and even link multiple waves. In crowded conditions, that means one person can "occupy" a wave for far longer than the rhythm of a normal lineup allows.

In coverage of the incident, Kelly Slater criticized the presence of powered craft in traditional surf zones, pointing to both fairness and safety.

His reaction echoed what many surfers have been saying for years as new equipment enters the water.

Safety is not an abstract concern

An electric foil surfboard is fast, quiet, and carries hard edges below the surface. The mast and wings are rigid. In a collision, they do not behave like foam and fiberglass - they cut like a razor through butter.

It's important to focus on how close the two riders came to contact. That proximity is what worries people who surf, especially those without the motor power to quickly turn or move away.

A standard surfboard can cause injury, but the underwater structure of a foil adds another layer of risk. It is harder to see and harder to predict.

In most moving sports, the participant with greater speed and power is expected to take on more responsibility. On ski slopes, the uphill skier must avoid those below.

On the road, larger vehicles are expected to exercise more caution. The same logic is starting to take hold in the ocean. Or at least, it should.

The problem with "first on the wave"

The e-foiler's argument rests on timing. He was on the wave first, so he believes he owns it. That idea does not fit how surfing works.

If time alone decided priority, then any craft with an advantage in catching waves would dominate.

Stand-up paddleboarders can enter waves earlier because they stand and use a paddle. Tow surfers can be pulled into waves long before they break. Electric foils extend that advantage even further.

Surfing has never rewarded that kind of control.

The culture depends on sharing waves or, at least, identical opportunities to get them, not claiming them indefinitely, in the same way a ride ends when a surfer kicks out or falls, not when the ocean runs out of energy.

A lineup under pressure

The reaction online has been strong.

Most comments side with the shortboarder, not because of loyalty to tradition alone, but because the situation feels unbalanced.

A powered craft entering a crowded lineup changes the expectations for everyone else in the water.

There is also a sense that the burden should not be equal.

The e-foiler can choose where to ride. He can stay outside, away from the peak, or move to a less crowded break. The shortboarder, sitting in the lineup, always has fewer options in the moment.

That imbalance is what fuels the frustration, anger, and disbelief. People not only argue about who was technically right on that wave but also about what kind of ocean surfers want to share their waves with.

Where this leaves the rules

There is no single governing body or law for everyday surfing, so change tends to come slowly. Still, patterns are emerging.

Many surfers now treat electric foils as closer to personal watercraft than to traditional surfboards. That view carries an expectation and will likely translate to national or state legislation.

Powered riders should stay clear of dense lineups and yield to those using waves without assistance, as it already happens with motor-powered vessels.

Laws of the sea and regional legislation across several countries determine the distance PWC vehicles need to keep from non-powered watercraft users.

There are even guidelines for addressing right-of-way between kiteboarders and windsurfers.

Some beaches and regions have already begun to separate uses, with designated areas for foils and other high-speed craft, after reports of serious injuries caused by hydrofoil surfers.

That approach does not settle the debate, but it reduces the chance of the kind of encounter seen in the video.

Whether we like it or not, the technology will not disappear from the world's lineups.

Electric foils are becoming more common, more affordable, and easier to ride. As they spread, so will these encounters.

The etiquette rules of surfing were shaped in a time when everyone in the water relied on the same energy source.

That is no longer the case.

But in the gap between old habits and new ways of riding the ocean, safety and fairness must come first, and the guidelines must always protect the one who's least protected.

Wrapping it up: a common-sense conclusion

Here's an overall view of what's at stake.

1. The core surfing rule (this settles most of it)

Across surfing (shortboards, longboards, SUPs, even foils), the fundamental rule is: priority goes to the surfer closest to the peak (breaking part of the wave).

Not:

• Who stood up first;
• Who has been riding longest;
• Who caught it farther outside;

This is consistent across etiquette and competition logic.

Supporting point: foil etiquette explicitly states that "the surfer closest to the peak still has priority."

So in this scenario, the shortboarder sitting in the breaking zone has priority, while the e-foiler riding the shoulder had no priority once approaching the peak zone.

Conclusion: the e-foiler must yield.

2. Why the "I've been riding for 30 seconds" argument fails

The e-foiler's claim sounds intuitive but breaks surfing logic.

Why it doesn't work:

• Surfing is not a possession game (you don't "own" a wave indefinitely);
• Priority is spatial, not temporal;
• A wave has multiple takeoff zones (especially at point breaks or peaks);

If "first on wave equals forever priority":

• SUP riders would dominate every lineup;
• Tow surfers would own entire sets;
• E-foilers would control waves minutes in advance;

That would fundamentally break surfing.

3. The motor changes everything (this is the real issue)

Here's the uncomfortable truth: an electric hydrofoil is not just another surf craft.

Key differences:

• Can catch waves far outside (before they even break);
• Can stay on a wave indefinitely;
• Moves faster and unpredictably;
• Has submerged wings (sharp, dangerous);

Even within foil culture, riders are expected to avoid crowded lineups and give space.

And many communities already treat them differently. Some places classify e-foils as personal watercraft (PWC), i.e., like jet skis.

4. The safety reality (this outweighs etiquette)

Here's where the debate stops being philosophical.

An e-foil has:

• A motor;
• A propeller;
• A rigid mast plus wing acting like a blade underwater;

As one report put it, they're essentially "a guillotine gliding beneath the surface."

So, in any close-call scenario, the higher-risk craft carries more responsibility.

It's actually a standard across:

• Sailing (bigger vessel yields);
• Ski slopes (uphill skier responsible);
• Driving (more dangerous vehicle = higher duty of care);

5. So who is at fault in this exact scenario?

Based on facts, the shortboarder, positioned at the peak, and he's in the natural takeoff zone; the e-foiler entered from outside, rode into an active lineup, approached a surfer with priority, and has superior speed, maneuvering, and danger.

Conclusion: the e-foiler is at fault.

Even if ee caught the wave earlier and was already riding, none of that overrides peak priority and safety duty.

6. The "unfair advantage" problem (and why people are angry)

If e-foilers get "first on wave" priority, they always win.

Because they can:

• Catch waves earlier;
• Stay on waves longer;
• Reconnect waves endlessly;

That creates wave monopolization, lineup disruption, and a massive safety asymmetry.

7. Common-sense solution (what actually works)

Not theory - what realistically prevents chaos:

Rule 1: Peak priority stays absolute

• Closest to the breaking part = priority;
• Applies to all craft, no exceptions;

Rule 2: Motorized craft = yield always in mixed lineups

Treat e-foils like jet skis (PWC).

Meaning:

• Must stay clear of surf zones;
• Must yield to all non-motorized riders;

Rule 3: Zoning (this is the real fix)

The most effective solution worldwide is to separate areas:

• Surf zone: traditional surfers only;
• Foil zone; outside, down the line, separate peak;

It already exists in some places.

Rule 4: Duty of care scales with danger

Hierarchy of responsibility:

• Electric foilboard (highest responsibility);
• Foil boards;
• SUP;
• Longboard;
• Shortboard (lowest);

More speed and danger equals more obligation to avoid others.

Rule 5: No "lineup crossing" under power

E-foilers should:

• Never ride through a populated lineup
• Kick out early or stay wide

8. What regulations should be introduced?

If surf breaks want to avoid serious injuries, a minimum framework requires:

• Classify e-foils as motorized craft (PWC-like);
• Ban them from crowded surf lineups;
• Helmet and distance rules (example: 30-50 meters away from surfers);
• Create designated foil zones;

9. Final answer (simple and fair)

Who has priority? The shortboard surfer at the peak.

Who is responsible? The e-foiler.

What's fair? E-foilers can exist but not dominate shared lineups. They must yield due to motor advantage and safety risk.

Best long-term solution? Shared ocean and separated zones.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com