Surfing was never part of my childhood. Rollerblading was. From as young as I can remember, I was obsessed with it.

The feeling of landing my first trick, pushing myself a little further, being part of something. I loved the adrenaline, the excitement, the sense of belonging.

But looking back, I can see there was something else driving me. I desperately wanted to be seen.

I was that kid who would do almost anything for recognition. I wanted to be the best at whatever I was doing. I wanted people to notice me.

Whether that meant pushing myself beyond my limits or doing something completely self-destructive, I didn't really care.

I just wanted to feel like I mattered.

Somewhere along the way, that desire became tangled up with my identity.

I started believing that who I was depended on what I could achieve, how people saw me, and how far I could push myself.

And the mask I built around that eventually became the very thing that nearly killed me.

Addiction entered my life when I was around twelve years old.

What began as another way of escaping how I felt slowly took everything from me. My relationships, my family, my sense of who I was.

By 24, I was homeless, living on the streets of London and drinking two liters of vodka a day.

The excitement I'd spent my childhood chasing was gone. I didn't know who I was anymore, and I couldn't see much of a reason to carry on.

Eventually, I ended up in a coma, fighting for my life on life support.

On 11 January 2017, after three weeks in a coma, I woke up alone. Nobody was sitting beside my bed. There were just machines beeping around me and a nurse telling me they didn't think they'd see me again.

I wish I could tell you that was the moment everything changed, that I woke up grateful to be alive, full of determination, ready to rebuild my life.

But it wasn't like that. Recovery was the hardest freakin' thing I've ever done.

I'd spent most of my life running from myself, and suddenly I had to sit with everything I'd been trying to escape.

I didn't rush back into skating, cliff jumping, or any of the things that once made me feel alive. I was frightened. My world had become so small that even imagining a future felt difficult.

I spent years working on myself, going through therapy, learning to understand my behavior, and slowly building a relationship with the person I'd spent so long trying to avoid.

I got myself out of homelessness. I found work. I started putting my life back together. But eventually, something began to change.

I wanted more from life. Not more money or recognition. I wanted to experience things again. I wanted to feel alive without having to destroy myself in the process.

After three years of sobriety, I made the decision to leave London and get on a plane to Asia. Not because I wasn't scared. I was absolutely terrified.

But I'd started to understand that fear didn't always mean I was doing something wrong. Sometimes it meant I was finally doing something different.

Finding the water

Years later, I found myself in Indonesia, entering the ocean as a complete beginner. And something happened that I hadn't expected. I recognized a feeling I hadn't experienced in years.

It reminded me of being that little kid at the skatepark. The excitement, the anticipation, the feeling of being part of something bigger than myself.

Except this time, something was different. I didn't need to be good at it.

I didn't care if I got humbled by the waves. I didn't care if I fell off my board or looked like an idiot. I was just grateful to be there.

Sitting in the water, looking out at the ocean, waiting for a wave, hearing the locals shouting encouragement. I wasn't thinking about what I needed to achieve next.

For once, I was simply enjoying where I was.

I'd spent so much of my childhood chasing that feeling through achievement and recognition. Now I was experiencing it without needing either.

But as I spent more time surfing, I started noticing something familiar in the people around me. And it wasn't always pleasant.

The ego we bring into the water

Being a beginner in surfing isn't always easy. There's an entire culture of rules, etiquette, and unspoken expectations.

Some of those rules are absolutely necessary, especially when it comes to keeping people safe. But I remember entering the water and sometimes feeling an atmosphere of hostility.

Not from everyone. Far from it. But there were people who made it very clear that beginners weren't welcome.

I'd make a mistake and get confronted. I'd be told I shouldn't be in the water. Sometimes it felt like there was absolutely no room to learn.

I wasn't trying to ruin anybody's session. I was just trying to have fun.

What interested me was that I didn't feel the need to respond with the same aggression. I'd spent enough years working on myself to recognize that behavior without taking it personally.

I couldn't know what was going on in those people's lives, but I recognized something in the frustration.

That desperate need for something external to go exactly the way you wanted it to.

I'd lived much of my life like that. If I wasn't getting the feeling I wanted, I needed more.

More excitement, more recognition, more of whatever I believed was going to fix the way I felt. And I began noticing how easily surfing could become another place for that pattern to play out.

I've spent months in the Telo Islands in Sumatra with friends who are incredible surfers. And I've seen how much the conditions can dictate someone's mood.

When the waves were good, everyone was buzzing. When the waves weren't what people expected, the frustration could follow them out of the water and into the evening.

A bad session wasn't always just a bad session. Sometimes it seemed to affect how people felt about themselves.

I'd watch people who had traveled halfway around the world, spent thousands of dollars, and arrived somewhere most surfers could only dream of visiting, yet still struggle to enjoy themselves because the waves weren't quite right.

And I understood it because I'd spent years doing exactly the same thing in different ways.

Chasing the next thing that might finally make me feel satisfied. The next achievement. The next rush. The next fix.

It's not that surfing is an addiction in the same clinical sense as substance addiction.

But I could see similarities in the way some people became dependent on that next experience to feel good about themselves.

The perfect wave was always somewhere ahead. And when it didn't arrive, neither did the happiness they'd expected from it.

What the Mentawais taught me

As I fell more in love with Indonesia, I started traveling further. Eventually, I made my way to the Mentawai Islands in West Sumatra.

For someone who was still a very amateur surfer, it was a funny place to end up.

Some of the most famous waves in the world are out there, and I was nowhere near experienced enough to surf many of them confidently.

But the waves weren't what ended up changing my perspective. It was the people.

I met Janiece, the founder of a nonprofit school on one of the main islands.

The school was helping local children learn English, giving them opportunities as tourism and the number of resorts in the region continued to grow.

I asked how I could help. What followed became one of the best months of my life.

I spent time filming a documentary, helping with the children, teaching swimming, and listening to the stories of the people who lived there.

One thing that stayed with me was the contrast.

People travel from all over the world to experience the incredible waves surrounding these islands, yet some of the children growing up there hadn't had the opportunity to learn how to swim.

I found that difficult to forget.

But what affected me most wasn't the difference in material circumstances. It was the joy.

These children had so much gratitude for things I had spent much of my life taking for granted.

And the people working at the school, devoting their time and energy to helping the next generation, genuinely restored my faith in humanity.

I remember sitting with families, sharing food, spending time with the children, and watching how people went about their days.

Nothing particularly extraordinary was happening. Nobody was trying to impress anybody. Nobody needed to prove they were the best at something.

And yet I was experiencing more joy in those ordinary moments than I had during so many of the years I'd spent chasing excitement.

It made me question how much of our happiness in the Western world we've attached to achieving something. Getting somewhere. Becoming somebody. Having something to show for ourselves.

I'd spent much of my childhood believing that recognition was the answer. And here I was, thousands of miles from home, finding happiness in simply being part of a community.

Of course, life on the islands has its own difficulties. I don't want to romanticize it or pretend people don't face serious challenges.

But there was something about the gratitude, generosity, and connection I experienced that made me reconsider what I'd spent so much of my life searching for.

During that time, I also found myself attempting some of the biggest waves I'd ever surfed. And damn me, was I humbled.

But even that felt different. I wasn't there to prove I belonged among the best surfers. I was just grateful to be experiencing it.

When surfing becomes your identity

Over the following years, through my work supporting people struggling with addiction and mental health, I began encountering another side of surfing.

People who had devoted enormous parts of their lives to it.

For some, surfing continued to bring happiness and purpose well into their later years. And that's something I admire.

But for others, the relationship had changed.

Injuries, aging, fear, and the natural loss of ability had started taking away something they'd built their entire identity around.

Some couldn't surf the waves they once loved. Some had lost the confidence to paddle out in conditions that previously excited them.

Others simply weren't experiencing the same satisfaction anymore.

And when something has been such a huge part of who you believe you are, losing it can be incredibly difficult.

I've worked with people for whom that loss became tangled up with drinking, mental health difficulties, and a feeling that something important was missing from their lives.

Some of the hardest work wasn't about getting them back on a surfboard. It was helping them begin to understand who they were without it.

Because when your entire sense of worth comes from being a surfer, what happens when you can no longer surf the way you used to?

What happens when the waves stop giving you the feeling they once did? What happens when the thing you've always relied on to make you happy no longer works?

I think there's a conversation to be had about ego in surfing. Not because surfers are uniquely egotistical. Ego exists everywhere.

But surfing is a sport where ability, status, adrenaline, and identity can become deeply intertwined.

And in an environment that celebrates pushing limits, catching bigger waves, and constantly improving, I sometimes wonder whether there's enough room for people to admit they're frightened.

Or struggling. Or simply not enjoying it anymore.

I've seen people who appeared to have everything they once wanted from surfing but were deeply unhappy.

I remember someone in the Mentawais who had spent around twenty years living in what many surfers would consider paradise, surrounded by extraordinary waves.

Yet getting back on his board had become something that frightened him.

Something that had once brought so much freedom had become a source of pressure.

That stayed with me because I recognized the pattern not necessarily in surfing itself, but in what happens when we attach too much of ourselves to one thing.

Learning to enjoy something without needing it

I don't want this to sound like an attack on surfing. It's the opposite. I love what the ocean has brought into my life.

And I've seen people who have struggled with their relationship with surfing slowly find their way back to it.

People who had stopped surfing, lost confidence, struggled with drinking, or found themselves in difficult places mentally.

People who began doing the work to understand themselves, rather than expecting the next wave to fix everything.

Some eventually got back in the water.

Not to prove they could still surf as they did ten or twenty years earlier. But because they genuinely wanted to be there.

And I think that's an important distinction.

There's nothing wrong with wanting to improve. There's nothing wrong with being competitive, chasing good waves, or taking surfing seriously.

The question is what happens to us when those things don't go the way we want.

Can we still enjoy being in the ocean when the conditions are terrible? Can we accept that our abilities will change?

Can we watch someone else catch the wave we wanted without feeling like something has been taken from us? Can we be beginners again?

I think about the little boy I used to be, skating for hours, desperate to land the next trick and desperate for somebody to notice.

I don't look back at him with shame. He was just trying to find somewhere he belonged.

But I wish he'd known that he didn't have to be the best at something to deserve that feeling.

Years later, when I first started surfing, I was finally beginning to understand it. I could fall off my board, get humbled by the ocean, laugh at myself, and still feel grateful for the experience.

The excitement was still there. The joy was still there. But I no longer needed it to tell me who I was.

And maybe that's the relationship we should be trying to build with the things we love.

One where they add something meaningful to our lives without becoming the only thing that gives our lives meaning.

Because healing doesn't mean letting go of the old you. Sometimes it means building a new relationship with the old you.

Words by Richard Ratcliffe | Surfer and Founder of NAWA Sober Retreats (nawarecovery.com) and The Recovery Club (@the.recovery.club)

Winning a world title is the pinnacle of many factors. But how hard is it to avoid the "valley of death" in sports, especially in surfing?

Formula 1 is one of the most demanding sports.

Many people don't realize how complex it is to prepare and train for F1 races, and how mentally and physically consistent you need to be to prevail after 24 races in a year.

Just ask Lewis Hamilton, who is actually someone addicted to surfing.

The speed, G forces, and number of quick, real-time decisions made on every lap are unprecedented.

Furthermore, F1 drivers know their lives are at stake at any race, especially when they're driving at 222,45 miles per hour (358 kilometers per hour).

So, if you're good enough and gather enough points to be crowned a world champion at the end of the season, there's every reason to party hard.

And that's exactly what most F1 world champions do. That's also the critical moment when their career either skyrockets or enters a slow decline.

The image of the "valley of death" comes from the business world, actually.

It's a critical period in a startup's lifecycle when initial seed funding runs out, revenue is low or non-existent, and the company struggles to secure institutional or venture capital before becoming self-sustaining.

It's either survive or die.

Can pro surfing champions handle the pressure?

Modern competitive professional surfers are athletes like anyone else, and they too should know that the road after a world title might be more complex than the path that led to the trophy.

But first, let's look at statistics.

SurferToday.com analyzed the list of male and female surfing world champions since 1964, the year of the inaugural competition.

From 1964 to 2025, 121 titles (men and women) have been awarded: 12 ISF World Surfing Championships, 12 Smirnoff World Pro-Am Surfing Championships, 13 IPS World Circuit titles, 64 ASP World Tour trophies, and 20 WSL titles.

The main questions are the following:

How many surfers defended their titles?
What percentage of athletes won back-to-back titles?
What's the men vs. women breakdown?
Which pro surfers were best at defending their titles the year after?
What are the challenges for successfully retaining a world title?

To understand that, we need to crunch the numbers.

Method and counting rules

With SurferToday's method, we counted every title (one per gender per edition) and marked it a defense if it followed the previous title in the pooled timeline.

We kept the four series merged (ISF, Pro-Am, IPS, ASP/WSL) for the overall statistics math.

Nevertheless, it's important to stress that the ISF, Pro-Am, and IPS events were separate championships run by different bodies.

Also, the Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) was rebranded as the World Surf League (WSL) in 2015, after a change of ownership, and the world tour and its title lineage continued without a break.

No surfer won both 2014 and 2015, so every figure is identical whether you merge the eras or split them.

The same holds for the 1982 IPS to 1983/1984 ASP handover, where there was no repeat winner on either side.

So, again, all four series (ISF, Pro-Am, IPS, ASP/WSL) are pooled. Each title counts once, and the canceled 2020 season is skipped.

The counting rules include Margo Godfrey Oberg's ISF 1968 and Pro-Am 1969 wins, which fall in consecutive years across rival world championships, and add Sharon Webber's ISF 1970 and 1972 consecutive biennial editions. Carissa Moore's 2019 and 2021 titles are also valid as back-to-back titles, with 2020 canceled.

Champions who defended at least once

• Men who defended: Mark Richards, Tom Carroll, Tom Curren, Kelly Slater, Andy Irons, John John Florence, Filipe Toledo;
• Women who defended: Joyce Hoffman, Margo Godfrey Oberg, Sharon Webber, Jericho Poppler, Lynn Boyer, Margo Oberg, Freida Zamba, Wendy Botha, Lisa Andersen, Layne Beachley, Stephanie Gilmore, Carissa Moore, Tyler Wright;

Titles that were defenses

Excluding the 1964 men's and women's titles, which could not be defenses because nothing came before them, the combined share is 37 of 119 (31.1%).

Women's 22 defenses break down as:

• ISF: Hoffman 1966, Webber 1972;
• ISF/Pro-Am: Godfrey Oberg 1969;
• Pro-Am: Poppler 1977;
• IPS: Boyer 1979, Godfrey Oberg 1981;
• ASP/WSL: Beachley (5), Gilmore (3), Andersen (3), Zamba (2), Botha (1), Wright (1), and Moore (1);

The 37 defenses are as follows:

Concentration of titles

The 19 repeat champions won 76 of the 121 titles (62.8%).

Among men, they won 29 of 64 (45.3%), and among women, 47 of 57 (82.5%).

So a minority of champions account for most titles, and this is much more pronounced among women.

Longest streaks

Conclusion

There are five main conclusions we can take from analyzing this data.

The first is that about 3 in 10 world titles (30.6%) were successful defenses. So defending is hard but not rare.

However, two in three champions (66.7%) never won back-to-back titles. This figure shows that not all pro surfers can repeat the feat the next year.

Interestingly, men are far less likely to repeat: only 20% of male champions defended, against 54.5% of women.

Lastly, a curious conclusion: a few dynasties dominate. The 19 repeat champions won about 63% of all titles, and runs by Beachley, Slater, Andersen, Gilmore, and Richards account for much of that.

The overall takeaway is that two in three world surfing champions never defend their title, yet dominate the sport, winning more than 60% of all titles.

Disclaimers

To help you understand these numbers, here are a few important disclaimers.

Judgment calls

Godfrey Oberg's wins were at different championships, Webber's were at a biennial event, and Moore's had a canceled season between them. SurferToday thinks it is important to note this, since a reader might not count all three. Without these three, the combined figures would be 29.8% of champions and 28.1% of titles.

Pooling blends different contexts

The early events overlapped, and in 1970, 1972, 1976, and 1977, two events crowned world champions in the same year. The Godfrey Oberg 1969 case is the only cross-series defense we counted. Pooling these with the modern continuous tour gives one figure for very different eras.

Small samples

The male-female gap (20.0% vs 54.5% of champions, 23.4% vs 38.6% of titles) rests on 22 women champions and a few long dynasties. It's fair to say that women's dynasties were longer, not that defending is easier for women.

Why it's hard to keep a winning streak

Avoiding the "valley of death" isn't for everyone, and surfing isn't profoundly different from other high-performance sports.

To put it in perspective, Kelly Slater, Stephanie Gilmore, Layne Beachley, Mark Richards, and Lisa Andersen won 35 of 121, or 28.9%, of all world titles since 1964.

That's five surfers. Impressive, isn't it?

There are many commonly cited explanations in sport psychology and athlete interviews for why this happens.

Mindset and psychology

The first challenge is a shift in role.

A champion goes from hunter to hunted, and that can change how they take risks and plan their heats.

The goal that drove years of work has been achieved, so motivation can dip, and the fear of losing what they've won can lead to tentative surfing instead of the attacking style that earned the title.

Pressure also grows because fans, media, and sponsors expect a repeat, raising the stakes of every heat.

Some champions start overthinking their technique or results, which can break the instinctive flow that won them the title.

Becoming "the champion" can also change how surfers see themselves and how others treat them.

Focus and lifestyle

Outside the water, a title brings sponsor commitments, media, travel, film projects and new business ventures, all of which compete with training time.

The intensity of the title-winning year, combined with a long season of travel, can leave a surfer mentally and physically drained.

Changes in personal life, such as marriage, children, or family needs, can also pull attention away from the tour, as can a simple loss of motivation.

Competitive factors

Rivals study the champion's wave selection and tactics, and they're often at their most motivated against the title-holder.

Surfing is judged, and conditions vary, so a single bad wave or priority call can end a season, which adds a layer of heat-by-heat variance that no amount of preparation removes.

Wear and tear from heavy surf and a long season can lead to injuries that derail a defense. A deeper field leaves less margin for an off year.

The champions' counterpoint

The streaks of Slater, Beachley, Andersen and Gilmore suggest these effects can be overcome. The clearest common pattern between them is an unusually strong competitive drive.

Kelly is well known for an almost obsessive need to win and a hunter's mentality, and over three decades he kept finding new reasons to push himself.

Richards has described a must-win mentality as "insatiable."

Layne's drive goes back to childhood, when she discovered at seven that she was adopted and became determined to prove her worth by becoming the best in the world at something.

Lisa reportedly gained sharper determination and concentration after becoming a mother, and Gilmore says the crowd and atmosphere of an event fuel her competitive side.

In a way, all of this cuts against the idea that champions lose their hunger or become more cautious once hunted.

At least in Slater's case, the hunter mindset seems to have survived the titles.

Still, these competitive surfing legends show resilience and a willingness to reinvent themselves after setbacks.

Beachley says she used defeats to recalibrate her mindset instead of being derailed by them, and she came back from a serious neck injury and a knee ligament tear to win again in 2006.

Andersen struggled with fragile self-confidence, and her first title came seven seasons after her debut.

Back problems later cost her part of 1998 and all of the following year, but she returned in 2000 and beat Beachley in a final.

Slater stepped away for about three years after his sixth title and reportedly returned partly because of Andy Irons, and five of his 11 titles came after his 2005 comeback.

Gilmore frames it as a mindset question: she once noted that athletes always lose more than they win, so she sets an intention each morning and takes lessons from her losses into the next event.

Every high-performance layer matters

A third pattern is a deliberate competitive edge, technical or tactical.

Mark Richards has said he doubts he would have won four titles without his twin-fin surfboards.

Lisa Andersen adapted her explosive, progressive free-surfing style to the demands of the professional tour.

Kelly Slater was known for his psychological game, and his longtime shaper Maurice Cole said few surfers play such heavy mind games, although that is one person's view.

Stephanie Gilmore describes a structured approach before a finals day: weeks of hard training, good recovery, and positive self-talk, so that she arrived excited rather than nervous.

Layne and Gilmore also point to a more emotional factor: the state of mind in which they compete.

Beachley once revealed the titles she won from a place of love were process-driven, in contrast to those won out of fear.

Not everyone agrees on the fear/love factor and duality.

Gilmore spoke about competing and winning from a place of love, which complicates the earlier idea that fear of losing makes surfers tentative.

For Beachley, fear apparently fueled many wins, though she doesn't recommend it as a way to compete.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Portuguese photographer Beatriz Ryder won the surf category at The Illume Awards 2026.

Her photograph of surfer Shaley Mercado in the Solomon Islands was selected as the winning image from 20 Surf Category Finalists.

"We were in one of the most remote parts of the world, the Solomon Islands," says Ryder about the location behind her winning photograph. 

"Right in front of where we were staying was this little wave: shallow, fast, and with short, fun runners."

The winning photograph was selected by The Illume Judging Panel, which brought together leading voices in surf photography, filmmaking and the sport itself.

This year's panel included renowned ocean photographer Ben Thouard, Patagonia's director of photography Heidi Volpe, professional big-wave surfer Nic von Rupp, Surfing Life Magazine publisher Ray Bisschop, and ocean and surf filmmaker Aaron Lieber. 

"The longer you look, the more you appreciate the balance between the water, the jungle and the surfer, and how effortless she makes it all look," says judge Nic von Rupp.

Ben Thouard also praises the photograph's balance and atmosphere.

"Everything is well balanced. The black and white tones also create a beautiful atmosphere that fits the action well," the lenswoman added.

A surf photography career in the making

Beatriz Ryder is a self-taught photographer originally from the cold waters of Portugal.

Driven by a constant curiosity and a love for discovering new places, she found herself drawn to the East Coast of Australia, which has been her home for the past few years.

With a strong passion for surf photography, Be spends much of her time immersed in the ocean, finding inspiration in its wild and ever-changing nature.

Her approach to photography is centered on capturing the raw energy and movement of surfing, while looking beyond the action to tell the stories and emotions behind each moment.

Through her images, she aims to create a deeper connection between the viewer, the surfer, and the ocean.

While the ocean may not have been a part of her childhood, photography certainly was. What started as a simple curiosity gradually developed into a passion and eventually became a lifelong dedication.

Her journey reflects the power of discovering something you truly love and having the courage to pursue it wholeheartedly.

Over the years, Ryder's work has gained international recognition, appearing in renowned publications, global campaigns, and at some of the world's most prestigious sporting events.

As an official photographer for the World Surf League (WSL), she has the opportunity to document some of the biggest moments in professional surfing, capturing world-class competitions as well as historic sporting events, including the Paris 2024 Olympic Games.

New equipment and new ventures

As the surf category winner, Ryder receives a prize package that includes photography equipment, surfing gear, and an opportunity to collaborate with the Patagonia surf team on a new assignment.

The prize includes a Leica D-Lux 8, a complete Angelbird storage package, a COOPH camera strap, and a Patagonia wetsuit.

Her winning photograph will also be published in The Illume Photobook 2026.

Heidi Volpe, director of photography for Patagonia and the Patagonia surf team, announced the surf category winner at Patagonia's headquarters in Ventura, California, United States, alongside Jenning Steger, Buddy Pendergast, Moona Whyte and Morgan Williamson.

The category finalists joined remotely via a live online call.

Patagonia joins The Illume as the category partner for surf, bringing a dedication to surfing and a commitment to protecting the ocean.

Its surf clothing and wetsuits are designed for performance and durability, built to last and made to be repaired. 

The surf category is also supported by The Surfrider Foundation, a nonprofit organization working to protect the oceans, waves, and beaches through local action, community engagement, and campaigns addressing issues affecting coastal environments.

The Illume stresses its commitment to sustainability and the preservation of the natural environments that make surfing possible.

Interview with Beatriz

Morgan Williamson: What does it mean to you to win the Surf Category of The Illume Awards?

I just can't believe it! It's 4 a.m. in Australia, and I almost didn't expect to be awake for good news. I know nearly all the other Finalists and admire their work so much, so this feels unreal. Surf photography has always been a very male-dominated industry, but there is so much space for women, and I'd love to be the person who brings more women into it.

Heidi Volpe: We love how your photo captures the quiet moments alongside women charging. Why black and white, and what was the day like?

It was an all-women surf trip to the Solomon Islands, to an isolated spot. The swell never really came, so we just tried to have fun on the little, super shallow wave in front of where we stayed. Black and white felt right: it was a dramatic landscape, and there were crocodiles around. It was probably my favorite job ever. I usually work mostly with men, and this trip was only women, from young surfers to world champions like Stephanie Gilmore. Even without swell, everyone was in a good mood, and you can see that in the photos.

Was this shot of Shaley planned?

No. There was a small break right in front of where we were sleeping, so whenever we weren't on the boat searching for waves, we'd go out there. I saw her surfing out the front, so I went out with her, and we got that photo. I was really stoked.

When you looked at it straight afterward, did you know it was special?

All the photos from that trip feel special to me. Shaley is so elegant on a surfboard, so her shots were probably my favorites. In this one, you can see her just floating on the water on the nose of the board, which is so hard to do.

When did you first pick up a camera and realize it was more than a hobby?

My dad was kind of a photographer, so I started taking photos with him when I was very young. We'd go on walks, take photos, edit them at home and sometimes upload them to a website where people gave feedback. Then in my teenage years I didn't do anything with it. Years later, my boyfriend at the time, a surfer who is now my husband, gave me a camera with a water housing. It sat in the cupboard for a while, but the moment I first swam out to shoot, I fell in love.

Who or what has had the biggest influence on you as a photographer?

My dad. He's the reason I started taking photos. He's always pushed me, and he's so proud of my journey.

What's the hardest challenge in your field, and how do you handle it?

I didn't grow up in the ocean or surfing, so I had to learn how to be in the ocean and how to take photos in it at the same time. It's been a big learning curve. The ocean is always different and throws things at you, and often I'm shooting a spot for the first time and have to figure it out. But I like the challenge. It's a job that makes me want to improve every day.

Is there a photo you haven't taken yet that keeps you up at night?

Not one image, but I'd love to expand to other sports. I'd love to shoot snow sports. I've never done it, and I really love the snow. I snowboard and grew up going to the snow every year. There's something mesmerizing about it.

You spend a lot of time in remote and wild places. How has that changed your relationship with nature?

Completely. I grew up in a city, so nature wasn't part of my everyday life. That changed when I moved to Australia to do photography full time. Suddenly I had to learn how to be in the ocean and in wild places, not just how to photograph them, and it pushed me out of my comfort zone constantly. The more time I spend out there, the more at home I feel and the more I want to be there. It's become kind of addictive.

What responsibility do action sports photographers have when portraying athletes in nature?

I think it's a privilege more than anything. You get to capture athletes doing something great in their own environment, and some of those moments become part of the sport's history. I like fashion too, but it's not the same. Shooting athletes in nature, in the wild, is pretty special.

The Illume's slogan is "Protect the planet we capture". What does that mean to you personally?

It's pretty simple. If you shoot in the ocean, you need to take care of it, because it's where you work, and everyone needs it, whether they work there or not. So, I always try to engage with initiatives that protect the ocean, like the Surfrider Foundation. This September I took part in SurfAid’s “Make A Wave” challenge, surfing every day of the month to help raise money.

When did you first hear about The Illume, and what made you decide to enter?

The Illume is the award everyone respects most, the most prestigious and longest-running award for adventure and action sports photography. It's always been a goal, and this year I decided to give it a try. I had some pretty cool images from last year's trips, so I sat down, looked through them properly, and picked the ones that felt really special.

Why does a contest like The Illume Awards matter for adventure and action sports photography?

For me personally, it's massive. I was the only woman among the Finalists in the Surf Category, so winning feels like helping to pave the way. There’s heaps of amazing work by women out there, but maybe they feel there's no space for them. If this inspires even a few of them to just go for it, that would mean a lot.

If you're a surfer or simply a seaside person, you'll agree there is something strangely comforting about listening to waves breaking on a beach.

Some people use recordings of the ocean to fall asleep, others play them while working, and many surfers happily spend hours listening to the sound of the surf.

YouTube even has channels dedicated exclusively to this. But is there a scientific reason why we find these sounds so relaxing?

Researchers have been investigating how natural sounds affect the human body and brain.

Their findings suggest that listening to water, flowing rivers, and other natural sounds can help the body recover from stress and improve certain measures of well-being.

Some studies have even included recordings of ocean waves.

Ocean sounds have complex frequency spectra and can share characteristics with pink noise. The gradual rise and fall of wave sounds also creates a changing acoustic pattern that may contribute to their restorative qualities.

The research is still developing, but there are some interesting findings worth exploring. Shall we take a look at a few SurferToday.com found?

The sound of water and the body's response to stress

One question scientists have been trying to answer is whether listening to natural sounds can influence the body's response to stressful situations.

You'd probably say yes, based on empirical knowledge and experience.

A study published in February 2018 provides some early evidence.

• Study: "Preliminary evidence: the stress-reducing effect of listening to water sounds depends on somatic complaints: A randomized trial";
• Publication date: February 2018;
• Authors: Myriam Verena Thoma, Ricarda Mewes and Urs M. Nater;

Published in the journal Medicine, the study involved 60 healthy women with an average age of 25. Researchers randomly divided the participants into three groups.

One listened to water sounds, another listened to relaxing music, and the third received no auditory stimulation. 

Each group spent 10 minutes listening or resting before taking part in a standardized psychological stress test.

The researchers measured cortisol in saliva to assess the body's stress response. Cortisol is a hormone the body releases in response to stress.

The most interesting finding was that the relationship between listening to water sounds and cortisol responses depended on the participants' existing physical complaints.

The researchers identified a significant moderating effect in the water-sound group, but not in the music or silence groups.

The conclusion suggests that people may respond differently to natural sounds depending on their individual characteristics.

It also shows why the soothing effects of water sounds should not be treated as universal or guaranteed.

Ocean waves and the relief of tinnitus

A particularly interesting investigation involved people who experience tinnitus, a condition that causes persistent ringing, buzzing, or other sounds in the ears without an external source.

You probably know someone affected by this condition. We do.

So, in this case, researchers wanted to understand whether exposure to natural sounds could influence tinnitus symptoms and physiological indicators of stress.

• Study: "Changes in tinnitus and physiological biomarkers of stress in response to short-term broadband noise and sounds of nature";
• Publication date: July 25, 2019, online publication. Published in the October 2019 issue of Complementary Therapies in Medicine;
• Authors: Nihal Aydin and Grant D. Searchfield;

The researchers recruited 21 people with persistent, bothersome tinnitus. They measured blood pressure, heart rate, salivary cortisol and cortisone, and participants' own assessments of their tinnitus.

Participants listened to broadband noise for 30 minutes and, in a separate session, to a nature sound of their choice for the same amount of time.

Available recordings included ocean waves, flowing water, rain, and shower sounds.

The findings were particularly interesting.

Both broadband noise and natural sounds significantly improved participants' tinnitus ratings.

However, only broadband noise was associated with a significant reduction in blood pressure.

The researchers found no statistically significant changes in the other physiological stress measurements following exposure to natural sounds.

Although this study does not establish that ocean waves lower blood pressure or cortisol, it provides direct evidence that recordings of the sea can form part of an auditory intervention that helps some people manage tinnitus.

Natural sounds and the brain's ability to recover

Another line of research examines what happens in the brain when people listen to natural sounds after experiencing stress.

In August 2024, researchers published an experiment using electroencephalography (EEG), a technique that records the brain's electrical activity.

• Study: "Effects of natural sound on human stress recovery based on EEG techniques";
• Publication date: August 2024;
• Authors: Chao Liu, Xiaotong Jing, Jing Shi, Jiaxin Li, Yuanyuan Zhang and Weijun Gao;

Published in the Journal of Environmental Psychology, the experiment involved 30 participants, comprising 12 men and 18 women.

The researchers first exposed participants to a stress-inducing task.

They then divided them into four groups. One group listened to flowing water, another to birdsong, another to wind, while the control group experienced silence.

The researchers monitored brain activity and collected subjective assessments of stress recovery.

The results showed that flowing water and birdsong helped reduce mental stress.

Flowing water also received the highest score for feeling away from everyday demands, a psychological measure associated with restorative experiences.

However, the researchers found no overall improvement in EEG relaxation compared with silence.

Now, this suggests that people can report feeling mentally restored without necessarily showing the same changes in every physiological measurement.

The experiment did not use ocean-wave recordings specifically, but it provides further evidence that listening to moving water can influence how people recover from psychological stress.

What happens when scientists combine the results of several studies?

Individual experiments can provide interesting clues, but systematic reviews and meta-analyses are particularly useful because they examine findings from multiple research projects.

One such investigation, published in 2024, examined the effects of natural sounds on human health and recovery.

• Study: "Effects of natural sound exposure on health recovery: A systematic review and meta-analysis";
• Publication date: April 15, 2024;
• Authors: Ruirui Zhu, Liyun Yuan, Yanting Pan, Yefan Wang, Danping Xiu and Weiyi Liu;

Published in Science of the Total Environment, the research reviewed 15 studies involving 1,285 participants.

The researchers examined the effects of listening to natural sounds, including recordings played indoors and sounds experienced outdoors.

Their analysis found that exposure to natural sounds was associated with reduced anxiety. The pooled results also showed reductions in heart rate, systolic and diastolic blood pressure, and respiratory rate.

The most interesting finding was the consistency of the improvements across several physiological measurements.

The analysis suggested that natural sounds could influence the body's physical response to stress, rather than simply making people feel more relaxed.

However, the researchers also identified considerable differences between the studies.

Participants, sound recordings, and experimental methods varied, making it difficult to determine which sounds produced the greatest benefits.

The review included natural sounds in general, so its findings cannot be attributed exclusively to ocean waves.

Natural sounds versus silence

A second systematic review and meta-analysis, published in September 2024, went a step further by comparing natural sounds with quiet environments.

• Study: "The effect of exposure to natural sounds on stress reduction: a systematic review and meta-analysis";
• Publication date: September 17, 2024, online publication;
• Authors: Luyao Fan and Mohamad Rizal Baharum;

Published in the journal Stress, the research examined whether listening to natural sounds reduced stress more effectively than spending time in silence.

The authors found statistically significant differences between the two conditions in heart rate, blood pressure, and respiratory rate. Natural sounds performed better in these measurements.

However, the researchers found no significant differences in perceived stress, mean arterial pressure, or blood oxygen saturation.

It's an interesting result because it suggests that natural sounds may influence certain physical responses even when people do not necessarily report feeling less stressed.

The review included nine studies, with sounds such as birdsong and water among the interventions.

It did not isolate ocean-wave recordings, so the findings should be interpreted as evidence about natural sounds more broadly.

So, is listening to the ocean good for us?

The scientific evidence makes a convincing case that natural sounds can support relaxation and stress recovery.

Water sounds, in particular, have produced encouraging results in experiments measuring psychological responses and brain activity.

Direct research on ocean-wave recordings also exists, although few studies have specifically examined surf sounds.

Therefore, scientists have not yet established that listening to breaking waves produces the same physiological benefits in everyone, or that ocean recordings are more effective than other natural sounds.

What they have demonstrated is that auditory exposure to nature can influence several aspects of human well-being.

The findings provide a scientific basis for something many surfers have experienced for years: listening to the ocean can be a genuinely restorative experience.

And perhaps the next time someone asks why you spend so much time sitting on the beach listening to crashing waves, you can tell them science is beginning to understand why.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Surfing video games have never been particularly easy to get right. Reproducing the feeling of riding a moving wave, controlling a surfboard, and finding the perfect line requires a lot of work.

Yet, a new generation of independent developers is giving it a go, and some of their ideas are surprisingly good.

There are now surfing adventures, multiplayer beach sessions, wave simulators, pixel-art career games, and even a few projects that look as if they were born during a particularly productive afternoon of experimenting with artificial intelligence (AI).

The interesting part is that these games approach surfing in very different ways.

Some focus on realistic water physics, others on arcade action, and a few are simply trying to make the digital ocean a more entertaining place to hang out.

Why surfing games are having an indie moment

Making a video game used to require a team of programmers, artists, designers, and plenty of money. That equation is changing.

Game engines, browser publishing platforms, and a new generation of AI coding assistants have made it easier for independent creators to turn an idea into a playable prototype.

The movement is often called vibe coding. The term describes a way of building software by explaining what you want in ordinary language and using AI tools to generate, modify, and debug the code.

Someone with a good idea for a surfing game can now experiment with wave behavior, board controls, scoring systems, and visual effects without having to write every line of code from scratch.

The trend is already visible in the wider game industry.

Unity's 2026 Game Development Report, based on a survey of 300 developers, found that 62 percent used AI tools for coding assistance. The report also found that 73 percent of surveyed studios said AI tools had improved their efficiency.

Meanwhile, the Game Developers Conference's 2026 State of the Game Industry report found that 36 percent of industry professionals used generative AI at work, with code assistance and prototyping among its applications.

There is a catch, of course. Generating code is one thing. Making a convincing wave simulation, getting surfboard physics right, and creating a game that people actually want to play are different challenges.

AI can help shorten the distance between an idea and its first playable version, but someone still needs to understand what makes a good game.

That is where the new independent surfing scene becomes interesting. A developer can experiment with a shorebreak simulator, a bodyboarding game, or a multiplayer surf world without first securing a major publisher or assembling a large studio.

Some projects use AI extensively, others rely on traditional programming, and several combine both approaches. The result is a growing collection of small games that give surfing and other wave-riding sports more room in the video-game world.

SurferToday has played over 30 and narrowed it down to 10. Try them out.

SumbaSurf

SumbaSurf is one of the more ambitious browser-based projects in this new generation of independent surfing games.

Available through Wavedash, it puts players in a first-person surfing experience where they can paddle into reef breaks, carve across the face, and try to stay inside the barrel.

The game was released on September 27, 2026, and includes several reef breaks with different levels of difficulty.

There are also familiar surfing destinations such as Pipeline, Teahupoo, Jeffreys Bay, and Waikiki.

Each location has its own character, with heavy barrels at the more challenging breaks and softer, longer waves for more relaxed sessions.

One of its most unusual challenges is Ombak Raksasa, a fictional 30-meter wave that requires a jet ski tow-in.

Players can also choose between several types of equipment, including shortboards, twin fins, fish, longboards, guns, alaias, and bodyboards. Bodysurfing is available, too.

SumbaSurf also has a social side. Up to six players can join free-surf sessions or compete in multiplayer contests. There are leaderboards for individual spots, and players can even design their own surfboards.

It is an interesting attempt to bring the atmosphere of a surf trip into a browser game.

It is SurferToday.com's favorite so far.

Matt Portner's Pro Skimboarder

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Skimboarding has spent a long time waiting for its own video-game moment. Matt Portner decided to do something about it, and we at SurferToday.com loved it.

Released in July 2026, Matt Portner's Pro Skimboarder is a free browser game that brings shorebreak riding into the digital world.

Developed by the co-founder of Wavedash, it takes inspiration from the classic arcade-style extreme-sports games that made players spend hours trying to land increasingly ridiculous maneuvers.

The premise is straightforward.

Players build speed along the shoreline, skim across shallow water, approach the breaking wave, and attempt to land tricks.

The game supports keyboard, mouse, and touchscreen controls, and players can ride alongside others in multiplayer sessions.

There is already plenty to learn.

Its trick book includes 41 maneuvers divided into eight categories, covering airs, spins, shove-its, flips, grabs, and inverts. Players can also visit the board shop, attend skim school, and customize their character.

The project is still evolving, and the developer has been receptive to suggestions from the skimboarding community.

More realistic wave sections, longer rides, competitions, and additional activities have all been discussed. It is an unusual opportunity for a relatively overlooked board sport to get its own digital playground.

Shorebreak

Some surfers spend hours studying the lineup before committing to a wave.

Shorebreak, an independent browser game by Martim Alves, brings that familiar challenge to the screen.

Released on October 20, 2026, the game puts players at a reef break with a pier, a headland, and a crew of local surfers.

Waves arrive in sets, and players must read the conditions, find their position, and compete for the best rides.

The lineup even has its own rules: priority goes to the surfer deepest on the wave, while dropping in on someone can have consequences with the locals.

The interesting part is how the game handles the waves. Each one is simulated as it breaks, so surfers must generate speed by dropping down the face and pumping off the front foot.

Setting the rail allows deeper carves, while shifting weight onto the tail helps riders slow down and tuck into the barrel.

Players can also launch off the lip, perform spins and grabs, and try to control their landing.

There are lefts, rights, A-frames and closeouts, with conditions ranging from small days to heavy swell.

Perfect Wave mode lets players repeat the same wave at a chosen size, which is useful for practising manoeuvres. Carves, layback snaps, tail blowouts, aerials and barrels are all scored.

Shorebreak also features customizable surfers and surfboards, plus follow, free and first-person camera views.

It is played directly in a browser using a keyboard and mouse, with touch input also supported. Its combination of wave simulation, surfing mechanics, and lineup etiquette makes it one of the more interesting independent projects in this new generation of digital surfing.

FreeSurf

What would a surfing game look like if nobody had to worry about winning a competition? That is one of the ideas behind FreeSurf, an independent project by Outside Line Studios that puts the emphasis on free surfing.

Released on October 29, 2026, the game features 19 surf spots inspired by real-world locations. Each one has its own wave characteristics, giving players different conditions to explore and ride.

There is also an online multiplayer mode for up to eight surfers. Players can meet in the lineup, catch waves together, and communicate through proximity voice chat.

The idea is to recreate the social side of a surf session, where conversations happen between waves and everyone is waiting for the next good set.

Another interesting feature is Shaper Mode. Players can design their own surfboards, customize their appearance, and even import images from their computers to create original graphics.

The result is a game that gives surfers considerable freedom over how they spend their time in the water.

Surf Sandbox

Surf Sandbox takes a different approach.

Developed by independent creator nocanwin, this small surfing simulator is built around the idea that players should be able to create the waves they want to ride.

Released in August 2026, it features realistic water physics and a wave editor that allows players to adjust the ocean bottom contours, wave height, period, and frequency.

In other words, you can experiment with different underwater profiles and see how they affect the breaking wave.

The game also lets you choose between several ways of riding the water, including bodysurfing, bodyboarding, shortboarding, and longboarding.

You can create a friendly beginner wave, build a heavy shorebreak, or design a section that is suitable for getting airborne and pulling into a barrel.

There is something particularly appealing about this concept.

Surf Sandbox treats the ocean as a playground and gives players the freedom to experiment with the relationship between underwater topography and wave formation.

You can even name your surf spot and restore its reef.

Swell Tour

Not every surfing game needs to be about controlling a character in real time.

Swell Tour, created by the independent developer known as tropicfjord, takes a completely different route and turns professional surfing into a career simulation.

The player creates a surfer, chooses a home region, develops a preferred surfing specialty, and starts climbing the competitive rankings.

There are six regions to choose from, and the ultimate goal is to reach the World Tour.

The game includes proper surf heats, with a running clock, best-two-wave scoring, and live commentary.

Players must read the wave and choose their maneuvers and level of commitment. Their decisions help determine how each ride unfolds.

There is also a career-management element. Surfers can attract sponsors, build rivalries, collect records, and follow season standings.

The game world continues to evolve, with established surfers retiring and new competitors entering the scene.

Swell Tour uses pixel-art graphics and is available as a browser demo and an iPhone game. Its developer has also disclosed the use of AI assistance for code and graphics.

The iPhone version includes the full Regional season, while the Pro Series and World Tour are available through a one-time paid unlock.

Surfers Code

Surfers Code is an independent surfing adventure developed by E. Marx and published by More Than Fun.

Released in September 2025, it takes players to a tropical island world where exploration is just as important as surfing.

The story begins with a traveling surfer who has a borrowed board and a rather unusual companion: a seagull with an attitude.

Players explore a chain of islands in search of waves, surfboards, and the secrets hidden throughout the archipelago.

You can travel on foot, by boat, or on a jet ski.

Along the way, you meet local characters, discover different surf breaks, and explore places such as ancient temples and lighthouses.

There are also surf contests, wave-scoring challenges, and leaderboards.

The surfing itself uses an expression-based physics system with one-button controls.

It's an interesting design decision because it puts the emphasis on choosing how to ride rather than mastering a complicated control scheme.

Players can also unlock new boards and gradually discover the meaning of the game's title.

Surf That Wave

Surf That Wave is a small browser-based project by independent developer Denis-Kor. It is still in development, but its arcade approach to surfing already has some interesting features.

The game uses a top-down perspective and physics-based wave movement.

The swell rolls towards the beach, the whitewater follows the surfer, and the strongest part of the wave sits near the steep face and peak.

Players can perform bottom turns, pump for speed, ride inside a barrel, and launch aerial maneuvers.

Tricks can be chained into combos, with a scoring multiplier that increases as the sequence continues. A wipeout ends the combination.

There are six surfboards with different characteristics, including a fish and a 9'6" gun. Four different swells are available, with the biggest featuring a wave almost nine meters high.

The developer has also introduced an in-game radio with five music stations, whose sound changes as the surfer builds speed, enters a barrel, or falls.

Interestingly, Denis-Kor explicitly states that no generative AI was used to make the game.

That makes Surf That Wave a useful example that the current indie game wave is not exclusively about artificial intelligence.

Traditional experimentation and individual creativity remain very much alive, and we applaud that.

Surf Da Earf

Nightwork Studios has been working on Surf Da Earf through its own proprietary technology, the Mind Surf Engine.

The studio was established in 2023, and its surfing project has been evolving since the first playable prototype appeared in November 2024.

The game is available on iOS, with a simplified mobile version also presented as Surfing Game. Its controls are straightforward, allowing players to carve across the wave and work on their surfing lines.

What makes the project particularly interesting is the technology behind it. Nightwork Studios says it has spent more than four years developing its own procedural ocean and surfing physics systems.

The Mind Surf Engine uses a heavily subdivided water surface driven by layered vertex displacement.

It means the same moving surface that players see is also used by the physics system to calculate board contact, rail engagement, and wave forces.

That is a significant technical challenge for an independent developer.

Instead of relying on a pre-recorded animation of a breaking wave, the studio is building an ocean that interacts with the surfboard during gameplay.

Its work on the engine also extends to other water-sports projects, including Hydrofoil Surfing.

Wakesurfer: Get Gnarly!

Surfing behind a boat has its own language, equipment, and riding style. Dave, the wakesurfer behind Mitchell Gaming, wanted a video game that reflected the experience, so he decided to build one himself.

Wakesurfer: Get Gnarly! is a free browser-based game that puts players behind a wake boat. After using the rope to get up and find the pocket, players can release it and start carving the wave.

The game features more than 17 levels, including lake sessions, a wave park, river waves, rapids, and a tropical lagoon.

One particularly unusual setting has two boats creating a double-up wave, while another lets players ride inside a barrel.

There is also a Pro Shop where players can upgrade their equipment.

Changes to the boat, ballast, wakeshapers, vest, and board affect the wave or the way the character rides it. Weather conditions change during gameplay, and players can practice their technique without a time limit.

The trick system includes spins, shove-its, kickflips, grabs, flips, and transfers. It works on phones, computers, and compatible game controllers.

Its developer has disclosed using AI assistance for code, graphics, sound, and text, making it another interesting example of how modern tools are helping independent creators turn personal sporting interests into playable games.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

Norway is famous for its fjords, snow-covered mountains and northern lights. Yet its coastline also hides a remarkable surf scene, where Atlantic storms send waves into sandy bays, rocky points and remote Arctic beaches.

The water is cold, the weather changes quickly, and finding the right conditions often takes patience.

But when the wind turns, and the swell lines up, Norway can deliver some of Europe's most memorable surfing.

The country's surf spots stretch across thousands of kilometers of coastline.

Some are well established, with surf schools, rental shops and places to stay near the beach. Others remain difficult to reach and are rarely visited.

Choosing where to surf depends on the season, your experience, and how far you are willing to travel for a wave.

Grab your 6/5 mm neoprene protection and join SurferToday.com on our discovery of extreme cold water surfing trip in Norway.

A brief history of surfing in Norway

Modern surfing in Norway began in the early 1980s.

According to the historical account that we can easily find online, local pioneers Roar Berge and Per Ståle Grude were riding waves in the Jæren region in 1982.

They were soon joined by Tore Skjæveland, who became one of the early figures in the country's surf community.

Equipment was difficult to find, though.

Some of the first surfboards arrived with American oil industry workers, including Californian John Stoudt, who joined the local surfers around Jæren.

With few specialist shops, Norwegian surfers had to make do with equipment sold by windsurfing retailers or travel abroad to escape the cold water and cumbersome winter wetsuits.

Remember that in the 1980s, windsurfing was living its grand boom and expansion all over Europe.

The Norwegian Surfing Association, now known as Brettforbundet, was founded in 1985.

Surfing gradually became more established as equipment improved and interest in board sports grew.

Snowboarding also helped introduce a new generation to surfing, particularly after Norwegian snowboarder Terje Håkonsen became an international star.

Lofoten developed into one of the country's best-known surf destinations during the late 1990s, as advances in wetsuit technology made longer sessions in Arctic waters more practical.

The sport has since attracted international visitors, photographers and surf camps.

Jæren hosted the European Surfing Championships in both 2017 and 2018, another sign of the sport's growing presence in Norway.

Why Norway gets surf

Norway's coastline is shaped by deep fjords, rocky headlands, islands and long sandy beaches.

That might not be a surprise, but this varied geography creates many different wave environments.

Open beaches can produce shifting peaks, while reefs and points can turn incoming swell into longer, more organized waves. Mountains surrounding certain bays also offer some shelter from local winds.

The country's coastline borders several bodies of water, including the North Sea, the Norwegian Sea, the Barents Sea and the Skagerrak.

Each region has a different exposure to swell, which means the best conditions in one area may coincide with flat or stormy weather elsewhere.

Most of Norway's strongest surf arrives with low-pressure systems moving across the North Atlantic.

Autumn and winter storms generate waves that travel towards the Norwegian coast. The direction and period of the swell determine which beaches and reefs work best.

West-facing shores often benefit from westerly and northwesterly swell, while more sheltered locations can become useful when the main beaches are blown out.

The North Sea behaves somewhat differently from the open Atlantic.

Its relatively limited fetch means that many waves are generated by local winds rather than long-distance groundswell.

These windswells can be powerful, but they often arrive with the onshore winds that created them.

The result is a surf scene built around paying close attention to forecasts, reading the wind, and being ready to change beaches at short notice, something Scandinavian and Nordic nations like Finland, Sweden, Iceland, and Denmark share.

When is the best time to surf in Norway?

For most experienced surfers, the main season runs from September to April, when North Atlantic storms bring more frequent swell.

December and January can deliver powerful waves, although the combination of cold water, strong winds and limited daylight makes winter surfing demanding.

September, October and the spring months can offer a more manageable balance of swell, temperatures and daylight.

Summer is often a better choice for beginners, particularly in Jæren, Stadlandet and Lofoten.

Waves tend to be smaller in many areas, and the longer days make it easier to wait for a suitable session.

In Lofoten, the midnight sun is visible from May 27 to July 17, allowing surfers to paddle out late at night in daylight.

Air and water temperatures vary considerably along Norway's coast.

In Lofoten, average air temperatures are around 30 °F (-1 °C) in January and February, rising to approximately 53 °F (12 °C) in July and August.

Sea temperatures can reach around 53-57 °F (12-14 °C) in summer, while winter water can drop to roughly 39-44 °F (4-7 °C).

Farther south, the sea is generally warmer, with late-summer water temperatures around 60-64 °F (16-18 °C) in parts of southern Norway.

However, dear reader, keep in mind that these figures are useful guides, not guarantees. Wind chill can make a relatively mild day feel bitter, and conditions can change within hours.

For a first trip, September and October are good months to consider, especially if you want a chance of solid waves without committing to the darkest part of winter.

Jæren, Rogaland: Norway's main surf hub

South of Stavanger, the Jæren coast is one of Norway's most practical places to plan a surf trip.

Its long, exposed beaches face the North Sea, and the variety of beach breaks allows surfers to search for a more suitable combination of swell, wind and tide.

The Jæren beaches stretch for about 70 kilometers, making this one of the country's most established and sought-after surf regions.

Bore is a natural starting point.

Its broad sandy beach is popular with surf schools and beginners, particularly during the summer when waves are often smaller.

When the swell builds, Bore can also produce more demanding conditions. Strong rip currents are a known hazard, so even experienced surfers should assess the sea before entering.

Nearby Hellestø and Sele can offer faster peaks, while Orre produces enjoyable rides when the sandbars and wind align.

Brusand, farther south, is another option when conditions are poor at beaches farther north. The ability to move between different stretches of coast is one of Jæren's biggest advantages.

The area is also well equipped for visiting surfers.

Surf schools and rental outlets operate around several beaches, and Stavanger Airport Sola provides convenient access.

A rental car makes it easier to check multiple spots in one day, although some beaches can be reached by public transport.

There is a catch: the same exposure that brings waves also brings wind.

Jæren can look messy during a storm, only to clean up when the wind changes direction.

As local surfer and photographer Hallvard Kolltveit told Visit Norway, Jæren is often windy, but it can be excellent when the wind drops or turns. He recalled memorable sessions in both February and October.

Stadlandet: Hoddevik and Ervik

The Stad peninsula, in western Norway's Vestland region, is home to two of the country's best-known surf beaches: Hoddevik and Ervik.

The setting is classic Norwegian coastal scenery, with open ocean, green slopes and steep mountains rising above the water.

For many visitors, the drive into Hoddevik is part of the experience, as the road descends towards a sweeping sandy bay.

Hoddevik is often regarded as one of Norway's finest surf destinations.

Its beach is roughly 1 to 1.5 kilometers long, and the surrounding mountains provide some shelter from the strongest winds.

The main break can offer long, approachable waves in suitable conditions, making the bay attractive to beginners and intermediate surfers.

Bigger swells can create more challenging surf, so the conditions still need to be assessed carefully.

Ervikstranda, a short drive away, faces different swell angles and is a useful alternative.

Waves arriving from the southwest and northwest can reach its sandy beach, giving surfers another option when Hoddevik is too small or the wind is unfavorable.

Ervik also has an established surf community, with a surf shop offering equipment rental and lessons.

Local accommodation and surf camps make Stadlandet a good choice for people who want to spend several days in one area.

A car is recommended because shops and other services are some distance away, and the roads around the peninsula can be narrow.

Autumn and early winter are good periods to look for consistent swell, although surfing is possible throughout the year.

Beginners can benefit from summer sessions, while experienced surfers can look for larger winter waves. When the sea is flat, the surrounding area offers hiking and other outdoor activities.

Lofoten Islands: surfing above the Arctic Circle

Lofoten has become Norway's most internationally recognized surfing destination.

The archipelago lies above the Arctic Circle, where dramatic mountains rise almost directly from the Norwegian Sea.

On a clear day, the landscape can make a surf session feel a world away from the crowded beaches of more traditional European surf destinations.

Unstad is the main attraction.

The small village has fewer than 20 residents according to the supplied travel account, yet it has developed a surf infrastructure that includes accommodation, food, equipment rental, and lessons.

Unstad Arctic Surf is a well-known base for visitors who want to surf the bay and explore the surrounding coast.

SurferToday.com always mentions them when it comes to surfing in Norway.

The bay has both left and right waves, with different sections breaking over sand and rocky ground.

The right can produce powerful, fast rides and occasional barrel sections when a clean west to northwest swell arrives with favorable easterly winds.

It is a serious wave in larger conditions, with rocks and currents that make it unsuitable for inexperienced surfers.

The left can also offer long, technically demanding rides when southwest swell wraps into the bay.

For a gentler session, Skagsanden near Flakstad is worth considering.

Its sandy beach can offer peaks that are more forgiving than Unstad's heavier sections, particularly in smaller conditions.

Eggum and other coves around Vestvågøy can also work when the swell direction and wind line up, although some are rarely surfed and require local knowledge.

Lofoten's season has two distinct personalities.

Autumn through spring brings the more powerful swells, while summer usually offers smaller waves, warmer water, and extraordinary daylight.

The midnight sun can make late-night surfing possible, but winter brings very short daylight windows.

Surfers planning a trip should leave room in their schedule to wait for suitable conditions rather than expecting a perfect wave every day.

Saltstein: a surf spot near Oslo

Surfers staying in Oslo do not necessarily need to travel to the Arctic or the western fjords to find waves.

Saltstein, near Nevlunghavn on the southern coast, is a rocky surf spot that can produce fast, powerful sections when the swell comes from the right direction.

Unlike Jæren, where long beaches offer several alternatives, Saltstein is more dependent on specific conditions.

It is often seen as an unreliable break that needs southerly swell.

A favorable swell and offshore wind can make it worth the trip, but it is better suited to confident surfers who understand rocky entries and exits.

The wider Skagerrak coast can receive useful windswells during autumn and winter. The challenge is finding a period when the waves have enough energy and the wind has eased or turned offshore.

For visitors based in Oslo, Saltstein is a useful option to monitor, but it is not a destination to book an entire holiday around without checking the forecast.

Lista: sandy beaches in southern Norway

The Lista peninsula, in Agder in southern Norway, offers long beaches and an exposed coastline where surfers can look for different wave angles.

Conditions are not as dependable as on the main western surf coast, but the area's geography can provide alternatives when wind and swell favor one beach over another.

Summer can bring smaller waves suitable for longboarding and beginners.

Autumn storms can deliver more powerful surf, although strong winds often complicate the forecast. As with Saltstein, flexibility matters more than choosing one beach and hoping it works.

Lista is worth considering for a road trip through southern Norway, particularly for surfers who prefer quieter beaches and do not need a surf camp or specialist shop on their doorstep.

Check local access, parking and conditions before heading out.

Stokkøya: a quieter surf escape

Stokkøya, on the Trøndelag coast, offers a different experience from the better-known breaks at Jæren and Lofoten.

Its sandy bay can produce playful peaks when a suitable swell reaches the coast, and the surrounding landscape makes it an appealing destination for surfers who want to combine time in the water with a quieter coastal holiday.

The area is less consistent than Jæren, so it pays to watch for westerly or northwesterly swell and lighter local winds.

A surf camp and nearby accommodation can make the trip easier to organize, especially for visitors who want lessons or equipment rental.

Stokkøya also has a distinctive architectural character, with modern sea lodges and a beachside setting that lends itself to a relaxed stay.

It is a useful alternative for travelers who value the experience of being on the coast as much as the number of waves they catch.

Alnes and the Møre og Romsdal coast

Near Ålesund, Alnes sits on Godøya island, facing the open ocean beside a striking lighthouse and exposed headland.

The surrounding coast has several potential surf setups, but they depend on the right swell direction and local wind.

Alnes is better treated as a spot to investigate when conditions look promising than as a guaranteed surf destination.

Further along the coast, the waters around Hustadvika are known for their exposed rocky shoreline.

Reefs and headlands can produce interesting waves, but local knowledge is important because the coastline is complex and conditions can change quickly.

Fog can also reduce visibility, so beware.

Surfers unfamiliar with the area should seek advice from local surfers before attempting unfamiliar reefs.

The scenery is spectacular, but remote breaks can involve difficult access and hazards that are not obvious from the car park.

Karmøy and the windy North Sea coast

Karmøy, in Rogaland, is particularly well known for windsurfing and other wind-powered watersports.

Beaches such as Sandvesanden, Åkrasanden, Sandhåland and Mjølhus are exposed to the ocean and can experience powerful winds, especially in winter.

These conditions make Karmøy attractive to windsurfers and kitesurfers, but they do not always translate into clean waves for traditional surfing.

The beaches are worth considering when exploring the wider Rogaland coast, particularly if the forecast suggests a suitable combination of swell and wind.

For a dedicated surf trip, Jæren generally offers a broader choice of established surf beaches and services.

Karmøy is better approached as an additional stop for travelers interested in the region's wider watersports scene, including wind sports.

What makes Norwegian surf breaks different?

Norway's coastline is long and varied, and the differences between regions are important.

Jæren's sandy beaches allow surfers to move between peaks and search for more sheltered conditions.

Stadlandet combines sandy bays with a mountainous backdrop, while Lofoten offers a mixture of beach breaks, rocky points and exposed Arctic coves.

The surrounding land also affects local conditions.

Mountains can shelter a bay from certain winds, while headlands and reefs influence how swell enters and breaks.

A beach that works well with a northwest swell may be nearly flat when the waves arrive from another direction.

And this is why local forecasts and advice can be more valuable than choosing a spot based on photographs alone.

Tides are another consideration.

Tidal effects are generally less pronounced around Stavanger than in much of Lofoten, where strong tidal currents can develop.

The tidal range around Bodø can exceed three meters during spring tides.

Narrow passages between islands can produce particularly strong currents, so surfers should understand the local conditions before entering the water.

Norway's surf geography also leaves room for exploration.

Remote beaches in the north and along the Barents Sea receive swell from different directions, including short-lived northerly and northeasterly systems.

Some of these locations have been surfed by locals but remain little documented.

Their remoteness, difficult access, and cold conditions make them unsuitable for casual exploration without preparation and local knowledge.

What to wear when surfing in Norway

Cold-water equipment is essential for a successful Norwegian surf trip.

A thin summer wetsuit will not provide enough protection for most autumn and winter sessions, especially when the air temperature is close to freezing, and strong winds make changing on the beach uncomfortable.

For autumn and spring, a 5/4 mm wetsuit with a hood, gloves and boots is a sensible starting point.

In midwinter, particularly in Lofoten, a 6/5/4 mm wetsuit and 7 mm gloves and boots may be more appropriate.

The exact combination depends on the water temperature, wind, session length, and how well you tolerate the cold.

Local surf schools can advise on suitable equipment and provide winter rental kits.

Cold-water wax is another essential. Bring spare wax, an extra leash, and a surfboard suited to the conditions.

Some surfers prefer a little more volume than they would use in warmer water, particularly when wearing thick neoprene and surfing in powerful, cold conditions.

The preparation does not end when you leave the water.

A changing robe or poncho, dry clothes, a warm hat, a thermos and a waterproof mat for the car can make a substantial difference.

Is there a sauna nearby? If so, you should definitely consider it.

In winter, a headlamp is useful, while traction aids can help on icy paths and parking areas.

Change somewhere warm whenever possible. Starting a session already cold makes it much harder to stay comfortable in the water.

Surf safety in Norway

Norwegian surf conditions deserve respect, even on beaches that look calm from shore.

Rip currents are a particular concern on exposed sandy beaches, including parts of Jæren.

They can form near sandbars and river mouths, and their presence is not always obvious.

Before paddling out, watch several sets, identify the currents, and check whether other surfers are struggling to stay in position.

Rocky points and reefs present different hazards.

Kelp can make rocks slippery, while shallow boulders can damage fins, boards, and bodies.

Some of the more powerful breaks in Lofoten also have strong currents and difficult entry and exit points.

Beginners should avoid these waves until they have the necessary skills and local guidance.

Cold water adds another risk because it can reduce strength and coordination, particularly during a long paddle or an unexpected swim.

Know your limits, surf with other people when possible, and leave the water before fatigue becomes a problem.

Keep warm clothing within easy reach and tell someone where you intend to surf if you are visiting a remote beach.

Forecasts are useful, but they cannot replace observation.

Check swell direction and period, wind direction, tide and local weather before leaving your accommodation.

Once you reach the beach, reassess the conditions. If the sea looks different from what you expected, choose another spot or wait for a better window.

Surf camps, equipment rental and accommodation

Norway is increasingly accessible to visiting surfers who do not want to travel with a complete set of cold-water equipment.

Surf schools and rental services operate around Jæren, Hoddevik and Lofoten, with lessons available for beginners and more experienced surfers.

In Jæren, visitors can find surf schools and equipment rental around Bore and the neighboring beaches.

At Stadlandet, Hoddevik Surf House and Stad Surfing offer accommodation and surfing services, while Ervik Surfshop provides equipment rental, lessons and local advice.

In Lofoten, Unstad Arctic Surf is an established base for surfing, with accommodation, food and equipment rental.

Flakstad is another useful place to stay, with Lofoten Beach Camp providing a surf-oriented base near the beach.

These services are especially valuable in winter, when bringing suitable wetsuits, gloves and boots can be expensive and inconvenient.

Accommodation costs vary by season and location.

Norway is an expensive country for travelers, and remote destinations can have limited services.

Booking ahead is advisable during popular periods, particularly if you need lessons, a rental car or a specific type of accommodation.

In small villages, do not assume that a supermarket, petrol station or equipment shop will be close by.

Getting around Norway on a surf trip

A rental car is often the most practical way to explore Norway's surf coast.

Many of the best beaches are far from major towns, and driving makes it easier to move between spots when the wind changes.

It also gives you somewhere to keep dry clothes, spare equipment, and food during long days of checking conditions.

Stavanger is a convenient starting point for Jæren, while Ålesund provides access to parts of the Møre og Romsdal coast. Stadlandet requires more driving through western Norway.

For Lofoten, travelers can fly to the region and continue by road, or travel via Bodø and connect by ferry.

Missing a ferry can mean a much longer journey by road, so check connections carefully before setting off.

Driving distances can be substantial.

The journey from Oslo to Unstad takes around three days by car.

The exact time depends on the route, road conditions and stops, and winter weather can make driving slower. Allow extra time rather than planning a tight schedule around a forecast.

Public transport is available in parts of Norway, but it may not suit surfers who want to check several beaches in a day.

If you are traveling without a car, choose accommodation close to your preferred surf spot and confirm how you will reach the beach.

A surf camp can simplify the logistics by arranging lessons, rentals and local guidance.

The midnight sun and other Arctic curiosities

One of the most unusual aspects of surfing in Lofoten is the possibility of surfing beneath the midnight sun.

Between late May and mid-July, the sun remains above the horizon for an extended period, depending on the exact location.

Long summer days give surfers plenty of time to wait for the right tide or wind and still enjoy the surrounding landscape.

Winter offers a different experience.

Snow can cover the beach, the mountains can be white, and the daylight window becomes very short.

The northern lights may appear during clear nights from late autumn to early spring, although sightings depend on darkness, cloud cover and solar activity.

They are a possible bonus, not something to build a surf schedule around.

The coastline is also rich in wildlife. Seals, white-tailed eagles and, in some areas, killer whales may be seen from shore or on the water.

The winter cod fishery is another important part of northern coastal life. The spawning cod known as skrei has long been associated with Norway's northern waters.

Surfing is only one way to experience these regions.

Hiking, climbing, kayaking, skiing, and fishing can fill the days when the ocean is flat.

In Lofoten, that flexibility is particularly useful because the best swells do not arrive on a fixed schedule.

Norwegian surf culture

Norway's surf community grew through the efforts of people who spent years exploring the coastline, sharing information and creating places where others could learn.

The Norwegian Surfing Association was founded in 1985 and became part of the Norwegian Confederation of Sports in 2012.

The European Surfing Championships held at Jæren in 2017 and 2018 also helped raise the country's profile.

Surf photographer Hallvard Kolltveit, who moved to Lofoten in 2016, has described the attraction of Norway in terms of the relationship between the surfer and the landscape.

Speaking to Visit Norway, he recalled hearing the phrase "little surfer, big landscape" from another photographer.

It captures something distinctive about Norwegian surf photography, where the rider can appear small against immense mountains and open water.

The community is not limited to experienced cold-water surfers.

Surf camps introduce beginners to the sport, while local clubs, shops and schools help visitors understand the conditions.

As in other surf destinations, respect in the lineup matters. In remote places with small numbers of surfers, good manners and a willingness to listen to local advice go a long way.

Norway's open-access traditions also come with responsibilities.

The right to roam allows people to enjoy much of the countryside, but it does not mean every beach, dune or field can be used without restriction.

Parts of Jæren are protected for their wildlife and plant life, and certain activities are prohibited in designated bird-protection areas during particular periods.

Visitors should follow local signs, use marked paths and avoid disturbing wildlife.

So, if you're a traveling surfer, make sure to include these rules as part of planning a responsible trip.

Park legally, keep off fragile dunes, take rubbish home and respect access restrictions. The landscape that makes Norway special is also one of the reasons it needs careful protection.

Which Norwegian surf spot should you choose?

Jæren is a strong choice for a first trip because it offers many beaches, relatively easy access from Stavanger and established surf schools.

Hoddevik and Ervik are excellent options for travelers who want a mountain-framed beach and a close-knit surf setting.

Lofoten is the obvious choice for those seeking Arctic scenery and powerful waves, provided they are prepared for the cold and the possibility of difficult conditions.

Saltstein and Lista suit surfers exploring southern Norway, while Stokkøya and Alnes reward travelers willing to plan around less predictable conditions.

The right choice depends on your ability, the season, and how much time you have to wait for a good forecast.

The most important rule is to leave room for change. Norway's surf is shaped by weather systems that do not follow holiday schedules.

A flexible itinerary, appropriate equipment, and advice from local surfers will give you a better chance of finding the waves you came for.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

A surf lesson in Lagos, Nigeria, led filmmaker Geoff Browne to an unexpected story about a father trying to provide for his family.

The result is "Godpower," a short film rooted in the lives of the people who call Tarkwa Bay home.

Its success is now bringing attention to a surf community that deserves to be better known.

The story began with a T-shirt.

The film that brought two surfers together

Geoff Browne, a Canadian-American filmmaker, was in Lagos when he noticed that his old "The Endless Summer" shirt listed Nigeria among the places featured in the 1966 surf documentary.

Curious to discover a surf scene he had never known existed, he booked a lesson with Godpower Pekipuma through Instagram.

They agreed to meet under a bridge, and Browne soon learned that reaching the beach would require a boat ride. 

Tarkwa Bay lies off the coast of Lagos, Nigeria's largest city. 

The beach is a short boat ride from the mainland, but its setting feels removed from the traffic and noise of the metropolis.

Families gather on the sand, children play football and volleyball, and visitors eat freshly grilled fish while local surfers head into the water.

Browne arrived expecting a surf lesson.

Instead, he met a man whose own introduction to surfing had begun with the same film that inspired his visit.

Pekipuma, known as GP, had watched "The Endless Summer" as a child and become fascinated by the sight of surfers riding waves.

"I remember watching 'The Endless Summer' as a kid and thinking, Wow, look how these people are walking on water like Jesus Christ," Pekipuma told Vogue in 2017.

"I knew at that moment that I wanted to ride waves."

That shared connection gave Browne an idea.

Rather than make another surf travel film about discovering a new destination, he would tell a story about the people who live there.

A surf instructor trying to provide for his family

"Godpower" is a 16-minute narrative short built around a familiar challenge.

Pekipuma plays a surf instructor who hopes that a tourist's booking will earn him enough money to buy a birthday present for his son, Isaac.

As he tries to meet his family's needs, he faces a difficult choice that tests his priorities. 

Surfing gives the story its setting, but the film's central conflict reaches beyond the lineup.

GP must balance his work with his responsibilities as a father, in a place where making a living can be difficult and opportunities are limited.

The real Pekipuma knows these pressures.

He runs a surf school at Tarkwa Bay, teaching visitors while encouraging local children to take up the sport.

The money paid by each student helps cover a free surf lesson for a child from the community.

Pekipuma hopes one of his young students will eventually represent Nigeria at the Olympic Games.

"I believe one of the kids in the community will represent Nigeria in the Olympics," he told Rolling Stone Africa.

A community in front of the camera

Browne wrote, directed and shot the film, working without a conventional crew.

He returned to Tarkwa Bay months after meeting GP, bringing a script shaped around the surfer's life and the place he calls home.

Production took two days, with residents helping to make the project possible.

The cast includes Pekipuma and his real-life son, Isaac, alongside other members of the Tarkwa Bay community.

None of the performers was a professional actor, according to Browne's account of the production.

Their familiarity with the setting gave the film access to everyday details that would be difficult to reproduce on a conventional set.

The production was also a test of patience.

Tarkwa Bay relies on generators for electricity, and the noise created problems for recording dialogue.

Browne describes asking people at a beachside bar to switch off the generator, put away their phones, and keep quiet while he filmed.

Turning off the generator also meant losing the power supply, leaving him racing against the batteries in his small lights.

He shot with a Canon C70 camera, two lenses, a DJI gimbal, a small tripod, wireless microphones and two compact LED tube lights.

Much of the lighting came from the available daylight.

Browne also edited the film with Garry M. B. Smith, while Dermot Shane handled the color grade in Vancouver.

Luc St. Pierre composed the original score, with vocals and percussion contributed by Nigerian musicians Sparoxzy and Ifedayo Folorunso.

The legacy of "The Endless Summer"

Bruce Brown's "The Endless Summer" helped turn surf travel into a global aspiration.

Released in 1966, the documentary followed surfers Mike Hynson and Robert August as they traveled around the world in search of the perfect wave.

Its popularity introduced audiences to unfamiliar coastlines and helped shape how generations of surfers imagined their lives beyond home breaks.

For Pekipuma, that journey began on a screen.

For Browne, the same film eventually led to a boat ride to Tarkwa Bay and a meeting with the man who would become the central figure in his own film.

The connection also raises a question about surf travel.

Beaches are often presented as destinations waiting to be discovered, while the people who live and work there remain in the background.

At Tarkwa Bay, the local surf community has its own history, knowledge and ambitions, long before a visitor arrives with a camera.

Zina Saro-Wiwa, an executive producer of "Godpower," praised Browne's collaboration with Pekipuma and the local community.

She said the film presents the people of Tarkwa Bay with dignity and offers audiences a view of Nigeria rarely seen on screen.

Producer Diana C. Zollicoffer also drew a connection between the two films, noting how "The Endless Summer" showed young white surfers sharing waves with African children.

Six decades later, she sees "Godpower" as an opportunity to place the people and experiences of an African coastal community at the center of their own story.

From Tarkwa Bay to Los Angeles

"Godpower" premiered at the 29th Dances With Films festival in Los Angeles in 2026, where it won the Grand Jury Prize for Best Short Film.

The jury described the film as "universally human" and "a cinematic gift," according to Rolling Stone Africa.

The film subsequently received a weeklong theatrical engagement at The Culver Theatre in Culver City, California, from September 18 to 24, 2026.

The run was described as Oscar-qualifying, making the short eligible for consideration under the applicable Academy Awards rules.

That does not mean the film has been nominated for an Oscar.

Its next significant stop is closer to home. "Godpower" has been selected for the 2026 Africa International Film Festival (AFRIFF) in Lagos, scheduled to run from November 1 to 7.

According to Browne, the award matters because it recognizes the people who trusted him with their time and their stories.

In his account of making the film, he recalls worrying that he might waste the community's efforts if he could not deliver a finished work that would give something back.

What comes next for Godpower

Pekipuma wants the film to help more people discover Tarkwa Bay and the surfing culture developing there.

He also hopes the attention will create opportunities for his family and for the young surfers he teaches.

His surf school is part of a broader effort to make surfing accessible to local children, many of whom have limited access to equipment and instruction.

In the past, some young surfers at Tarkwa Bay learned on improvised boards made from discarded wood.

Pekipuma's work gives them a way to build skills and join a growing community.

Browne is now preparing a feature-length version of "Godpower," planned as a 90-minute film that will expand on the characters and setting introduced in the short.

He hopes the project will lead to further acting opportunities for Pekipuma and bring more international attention to the community.

The planned feature will continue a story that began with a surf lesson, a shared love of an old documentary and a father trying to buy his son a birthday present.

According to Pekipuma, the ambition remains close to home: to build a future for his family and give the next generation of Tarkwa Bay surfers a chance to go further than he has.

Airplane flights and surfboards are two worlds that rarely get along. The chances of damaging your favorite surfboard because of poor airport baggage handling are high. Now, there could be hope.

A surf trip can take months to dream about and plan, but one bad impact at the airport can ruin your favorite stick.

But things might have changed.

Rockair has developed a reusable foam protection system that fits inside an existing surfboard travel bag, giving surfers another way to reduce damage risk in transit.

The idea came from a familiar problem for anyone who flies with surfboards.

Traditional travel bags offer some protection, but many surfers still wrap their boards in cardboard, bubble wrap, and towels before checking them in.

Rockair wants to make that extra layer of protection easier to manage.

A reusable shield for your surfboard

Rockair uses high-density polyethylene foam to create a protective shell that wraps around the front and back of a single surfboard.

The two-piece design covers the board's surface within the supported dimensions, adding a 20-millimeter layer intended to absorb impacts, drops, and pressure during transport. 

The shell slides over the board before it goes into a regular travel bag.

Surfers can therefore keep their existing luggage instead of buying a separate hard case.

Rockair says its design doesn't change the bag's outside dimensions, though surfers still need to check that their travel case can accommodate the added protection.

The company describes the material as having a tear resistance of 60 newtons and says the product is designed for more than four years of repeated use with proper care.

The foam does not absorb water, making it suitable for brief exposure to moisture, but Rockair does not recommend exposing it to full submersion or flooding.

A problem that starts before the first wave

The idea behind Rockair came from the founders' own experiences traveling with surfboards.

Before flights, they would wrap their boards in bubble wrap, reinforce the rails with cardboard, and stuff towels around vulnerable areas.

After landing, they removed and discarded the makeshift protection, then replaced it before the return journey.

"We didn't want a better bag. We wanted to solve the problem the bag was never designed to handle," the three co-founders explain.

The thing is, a conventional padded bag and a dedicated protective shell serve different purposes.

Padding can cushion everyday knocks, but a surfboard may also be subjected to concentrated pressure when other luggage is stacked on top of it.

The nose, tail and deck can be vulnerable when the board is dropped or struck.

Rockair says it spent a year developing and testing prototypes before arriving at its current design.

The founders describe "a process involving repeated building, testing and rebuilding, with the aim of creating protection they would trust with their own boards."

A 20-kilogram test

Rockair says one test involved dropping a 44-pound (20-kilogram) weight onto a protected surfboard. According to the company, the board remained unbroken after the test.

The result offers an indication of what the system is designed to do, but it should not be interpreted as a guarantee against every kind of damage.

Rockair's own warranty terms state that the product significantly reduces the risk of damage during transit but does not make a surfboard unbreakable. 

Obviously, a surfboard can suffer a cracked rail, a crushed nose, or a ding in its deck under different conditions. The outcome depends on the force, the point of impact, and the board itself.

Rockair's protective shell is intended to reduce the chances of these problems, rather than eliminate every possible risk.

Fair enough, right?

Finding the right fit

Rockair's Short Shell accommodates surfboards up to 5 feet 11 inches (180 centimeters) long and 19.5 inches (49.5 centimeters) wide.

Surfers with longer boards can use extensions, while the appropriate shell is selected according to the board's width. 

The company's online fit calculator helps customers choose the shell and extensions they need by entering their surfboard's dimensions.

One detail to check before ordering: a board with a particularly wide or rounded nose may need more room inside the shell than its overall length suggests.

Rockair recommends adding 1 to 2 inches to the measured length when calculating the fit for these shapes.

It also advises customers to check the internal space available in their existing travel bag, since different brands and models have different dimensions.

The Short Shell weighs approximately 2.2 pounds (1 kilogram), while the Hybrid Shell weighs around 2.8 pounds (1.27 kilograms), according to the company's product information.

Rockair is designed to protect one surfboard at a time, with the two pieces wrapping around the front and back of the board.

Designed for repeated trips

One of Rockair's selling points is that surfers can reuse the protection instead of buying disposable packing materials every time.

The company says the foam can continue protecting a board for more than four years with proper use, as long as it retains its shape.

That lifespan depends on how you treat the shell.

Rockair advises against forcing an oversized surfboard into the product, which could damage the foam.

Its limited warranty covers defects in materials and workmanship for one year from delivery, but excludes damage such as cuts, punctures, excessive crushing, and heat exposure.

The warranty covers the Rockair product itself, not damage to the surfboard.

The shell also has a patent-pending design.

Rockair aims to offer extra impact protection without requiring surfers to replace their existing travel bags, making it an option for those who fly regularly with their boards.

If you're a surfer heading abroad, this could be a viable option.

Thanks to this extra layer of protection, the usual routine of packing a board, checking it in, and hoping for the best may never disappear entirely, even as the surfboard disappears behind the airport check-in counter.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

The surfboard has become a disposable piece of surfing equipment that most people carry on their heads or by hand, thanks to easy-grip designs and integrated handles.

It seems democracy and globalization aren't doing surfing any favors.

I know it's a controversial take, but bringing surfing to more and more people isn't making surf culture any better.

On the contrary, it's turning it into a purchasable "experience" you can have once in a lifetime, just like skydiving or eating insects in a remote location in Asia.

"Surfing? Yeah, I tried it once. It was fun," you could probably hear while socializing and making small talk at a fancy or hipster party.

Yes, you were part of a large group that paid a substantial amount of money to be pushed into whitewater mini-waves for 90 minutes by a surf instructor.

It must've been quite an experience. Congrats.

Generation Decathlon

While doing it - probably never knowing who Duke Kahanamoku or Kelly Slater are, or what "The Endless Summer" or "Big Wednesday" are - you contributed to the overcrowding of consistent beach breaks, overtourism, and the number of foam surfboards discarded where they shouldn't be.

Indirectly, you were also responsible for putting out of business thousands of surfboard shapers and closing iconic surf shops.

It's Generation Decathlon.

The modern sportspeople who see "cool sports you should try before you die" posts on their social media feeds and decide to shop for pro gear and equipment before even trying them.

I know it sounds bitter and rancorous, but the reality I witness more and more every weekend is hard to unsee.

All the surf breaks I have been enjoying for over 30 years are now with so many people in the water - most of them are foreigners - that it's become virtually impossible to catch a wave and ride it without being dropped by someone who doesn't even know there are priority rules in surfing.

Why would I paddle out knowing that I will eventually get so annoyed or angry that I would leave the water worse off than I was in terra firma?

Newbies rule the lineup

The cheap commercialization of surfing starts in the sand.

Surf schools now mark territory by sticking flags on the beach, as if they owned a strip of coastline for the time they're "teaching" newbies the art of walking on water.

We know the trick.

Taking pictures and shooting video of beginners - an extra product sold by the surf school industry - is another example of the state of modern surfing.

And when the branded surf school foamies aren't in the water, individual lost souls are always out there, as if divine intervention put them in the lineup.

Cheap XXL soft-top surfboards sold in supermarkets or mega sports retailers for under $200.

Beginners and newbies are becoming the dominant force in surfing.

It's an underskilled army that is undermining and outnumbering the intermediate and advanced brigade by a large margin.

Despite their lack of knowledge and experience, they're shattering everyone's chances of getting their fair share of waves after a stressful workweek.

The cheap foam surfboard generation is unaware of their impact on surfing and its once-burgeoning culture.

They don't care about surf history, surf books and movies, nor surf science.

For them, there is no such thing as surf forecasting - it's either sunny or rainy. They've either taken a snap in their inexpensive wetsuit or not.

Beach cleanups and ocean environment awareness are for activists, right?

A foam surfboard with a handle hole breaks the rules of surfboard design; its fin boxes are inertia's finest allies.

Nearly everything's wrong in those bland templates. The concept of rail and tail shapes is nonexistent.

These surfboards were not made to trim a wave. Their sole goal is to steer their owner straight to the beach.

The anti-surfboard

In a way, they're anti-surfboards. They don't do what they're supposed to, and they keep real surfers from having fun.

I cannot count how many times I left the water after these craft, and their riders irreversibly damaged my session.

And I am not sure if things will change, even with all the wave pools popping up here and there.

Is there any wave breaking where nobody has ever ridden? Could a large-scale disruption, oil, energy, etc., put an end to this plague?

Could surfing mimic the implosion and subsequent loss of popularity skateboarding experienced in the 1980s?

Maybe we need to kill the king for monarchy to prevail again.

Because the democratization (or is it socialism?) of surfing is making it look cheap in the worst possible way.

Long live the polyurethane kingdom and the days of epoxy knight riders. Who would've thought we would miss them?

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

The free online game lets players ride reef breaks, chase barrels, tackle a fictional 100-foot (30-meter) wave, and surf with friends without installing a conventional video game. And no, it's not True Surf nor YouRiding. It's called SumbaSurf.

Surfing video games have often struggled to reproduce the feeling of riding a wave.

SumbaSurf is different.

The browser-based game puts players in a first-person view, where they can paddle into waves, carve along the face, and pull into a barrel while the lip throws overhead.

It's an immersive, first-person 3D surfing game that is free to play and designed for both computers and mobile devices.

It combines individual wave riding with multiplayer sessions, surf contests, and a collection of fictional reef breaks inspired by the Indonesian island of Sumba.

The game was released on September 27, 2026, and has continued to receive pretty regular and consistent updates.

Its feature set includes a 30-meter tow-in wave, famous international surf spots, customizable equipment, and a social mode that lets up to six players surf together.

"We are a small team of game developers in Singapore," the team behind Sumba Surf told SurferToday.com

"It started as a passion project for us to recreate the vibes of real-life surfing in a much more immersive way."

"We are blown away by the massive support from the international surfing community. We have more than 82,000 active players after three weeks of launch!"

What exactly is SumbaSurf?

SumbaSurf is a first-person surfing game that runs directly in a web browser. Players do not need to download a traditional PC or console game to get started.

The developer distributes it through Wavedash, a browser-game platform that also provides multiplayer and community features.

The main idea is straightforward: players paddle into a wave, stand up, and try to make the most of the ride.

They can build speed, carve turns, stall to position themselves inside a barrel, and attempt to hold their line as the wave breaks.

A scoring system evaluates each ride according to speed, power, and the maneuvers performed.

The first-person camera is central to the experience.

Instead of watching a small surfer move across a wave from a distance, players see the action from the rider's perspective, making the relationship between the surfer and the wave the main focus of the game.

SumbaSurf is also designed for people who want to spend time in a virtual surf environment without competing.

Its free surf mode lets friends share a beach, listen to music, and ride the same waves together.

Players can chat during sessions and see each other's scores after a wave. But there's so much more to explore, try, and choose from.

Surf breaks, giant waves and famous locations

The game's original setting centers on fictional reef breaks inspired by Sumba, an Indonesian island known for its great surf.

The locations range from relatively approachable waves at Pantai Kuda to more demanding barrels at Gunung Laut and Ombak Raksasa.

Ombak Raksasa is the game's headline attraction.

The fictional wave reaches 30 meters and can only be ridden with a jet ski. It's an extreme gameplay feature, not a claim that the game reproduces the hydrodynamics of a real 30-meter wave.

The latest Wavedash descriptions list ten reef breaks, but the expansion continues.

The game also includes a wave pool and several relaxed beaches intended for social sessions.

Players can leave the fictional Indonesian breaks and visit famous surf locations such as Pipeline in Hawaii, Teahupoo in Tahiti, Jeffreys Bay in South Africa, and Waikiki in Hawaii.

Each spot has its own character and temperament.

Pipeline and Teahupoo are associated with heavy barrels, Jeffreys Bay offers long, fast walls, and Waikiki is presented as a softer wave suited to longboarding.

Choose a board and learn the controls

SumbaSurf offers a range of board types that reflect different approaches to riding waves, including shortboards, twin fins, fish, longboards, big wave guns and alaias.

The game also features bodyboarding and bodysurfing, and even the ability to design a custom surfboard.

How cool can that be?

The available equipment is part of the game's broader approach to surfing.

A shortboard offers a different visual and riding experience than a longboard, while a big-wave gun suits the game's most intimidating wave settings.

However, the developer has not published technical data demonstrating how closely the different boards reproduce their real-world counterparts.

But they surely feel amazing to play with.

The controls are designed for both computers and touchscreen devices.

On a computer, players use the arrow keys to steer and carve, the space bar to paddle and pump for speed, and the Shift key to stall and position themselves for a barrel.

On a phone, players should hold the device horizontally. Players steer with their right thumb and use on-screen buttons on the left for actions such as paddling, pumping, and stalling.

The layout lets you play without a keyboard or dedicated gaming controller.

Surf with friends or enter a contest

Multiplayer is one of SumbaSurf's main features.

The game supports up to six surfers per session, allowing friends to share the same virtual beach and ride the same waves at the same time.

In free surf mode, players can join open beaches or create private sessions protected by a five-character code.

The host can choose between normal and extreme waves and controls the shared music.

Everyone can watch other surfers paddle, ride waves, and wipe out, making the experience feel more like a virtual surf trip than a conventional competition.

Players who prefer a more structured format can organize surf contests for up to six participants.

They can invite friends using a link or room code, select their character, board, and stance, and gather in a virtual cliff-top villa before the competition begins.

The host chooses the surf spot and whether each competitor receives three or five waves.

Surfers take turns while the others watch the ride live from the active player's perspective. The best two waves count towards the final score, and the highest total wins.

The game also includes leaderboards for individual spots, a world ranking, and country flags that allow players to score points for their chosen nation.

The listing advertises 13 achievements or badges, giving players additional goals beyond simply catching waves.

A virtual surf clubhouse

SumbaSurf includes a cliff-top villa where players can spend time between sessions.

The environment features dogs, cats, and a drone players can fly around the area, along with an animal drone show over the sea.

Details may seem secondary to the surfing itself, but they help explain the game's social direction.

The virtual environment gives players a place to meet friends and prepare for a session, rather than sending them straight into a competitive surfing challenge.

The same philosophy appears in the free surf mode, where the host selects the music and players can ride without a contest clock.

The game therefore accommodates people who want to improve their scores as well as those who simply want to share a virtual beach with friends.

And the songs chosen, dear reader, are really nice and fit in perfectly.

SurferToday.com tried several gameplay options and can confirm it's fun and addictive.

How realistic is the surfing simulation?

SumbaSurf is marketed as an immersive surfing simulator. You'll be the judge.

The first-person perspective and barrel riding can surely create a convincing surfing experience without requiring a full numerical simulation of ocean water.

A realistic wave in a video game involves several separate challenges.

The surface must form a convincing wave face, the lip must pitch forward as the wave breaks, and the surfer and board must respond to player input so turns and speed changes feel natural.

Developers can create these effects with carefully designed wave geometry, animation, and simplified physics.

A more advanced system might generate waves procedurally or use numerical fluid dynamics.

We have written about how difficult it is to port a real ocean to a video game. It's been a challenge that's been open for decades.

SumbaSurf has not publicly identified which approach it uses.

The same uncertainty applies to its surfboards. The game lets players choose different board types.

Still, it hasn't published a technical explanation of how it models buoyancy, drag, rail engagement, fin behavior, or how a moving board interacts with a breaking wave.

Anyway, if it feels good to play, that's all that matters.

Is SumbaSurf free to play?

Yes.

SumbaSurf is advertised as a free browser game, and players can access it through its Wavedash page.

The game also offers a donation option through its public platform presence.

Overall, the practical appeal is that players can try the game without buying a console title or installing a conventional game client.

They can choose a virtual reef break, select a board, and start riding waves alone or with friends.

How to play SumbaSurf

Players can start at the official website, sumbasurf.app, which links to the game on Wavedash.

The published controls support computer keyboards and mobile touchscreens, with the latter requiring the phone to be held horizontally.

The game is still new, and its feature list has changed since the initial release.

A good starting point is to choose an approachable reef break, get used to paddling and steering, and learn how pumping and stalling affect a ride before attempting more demanding barrels.

Once the controls feel familiar, players can invite friends to a private beach or organize a contest to compare their scores.

The developers remain relatively anonymous. But they should not. SumbaSurf is a great game and deserves continuous improvement.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com