Susan Tabak

Names To Know MB Couture for Doriani, by Maria Buccellati

susan — Thu, 26 Apr 2012 14:40:55 -0400

Maria Buccellati at home

It’s a beautiful spring day in Milan, and Maria Buccellati welcomes me into her magnificent apartment. Benvenuto, she says, in the warm, unmistakably Latin accent she gets from her Cuban mother and Spanish father. Maria was born in New York, grew up in Miami and, after studying fashion design, she modeled in Europe (as Maria Cabrera) at the very start of the supermodel era. Then love and marriage (to husband Andrea Buccellati, with whom she has two children), turned Milan into her adopted home. Now, love is providing more impetus for change–expressed, this time, in Maria’s passion for elegant design and luxurious products. It’s what first compelled her to start her own business ten years ago (the haute swimwear line, MB Beach Couture)–and, just recently, to enter into a special new arrangement with Doriani Cashmere.

A typically easy, yet luxurious, look from MB Cashmere Couture

MB Beach Couture was a sophisticated collection featuring much more than swimwear–luxurious skirts, kimonos, dresses and accessories were also part of its mix. It was soon joined by MB Ice Couture, a line of refined cashmere pieces. Both collections were quietly successful, in part because they were well-liked by celebrity clients, and Maria’s fellow jet-setters. Maria was also quick to recognize the value of partnerships and collaborations–lately, she’s been functioning as an international consultant (and resident ambassadress) for Paris-based label, Faith Connexion. Model-turned-designer Annabelle Dexter-Jones created a capsule collection for the brand’s Fall/Winter 2012 season; and Brazilian supermodel, Isabeli Fontana, has similarly signed on for collaboration. Meanwhile, Maria has re-entered the design arena with an all-new collection: MB Cashmere Couture, in partnership with Doriani.

Another look from MB Cashmere Couture–and Maria in the workshop

In her work for Doriani, Maria has chosen to respect the brand’s identity and heritage, and to offer clothes for women of any age (and any style). Every garment can be adapted to the wearer’s mood, from classic, chic or feminine to hip. “All women are different,” Maria says, “so it’s only right to give each one an opportunity to express herself the way she likes.” This sensitivity is key to the designer’s success, and she often creates special, limited-edition items to satisfy her customer’s need to feel unique (as she did for her sold-out collection at Harrods). “Having the opportunity to work with a maison like Doriani is a great luxury," Maria says. “They never compromise on quality.” Asked to define luxury, she answers pragmatically: “Luxury is effortless: chic, timeless pieces that adapt to any situation. It’s not bling, bling or an It bag–it’s more of a hidden subtlety.” Of course, Maria’s own enthusiasm and good taste offer their own rewards, so I’m not surprised when she turns to me with a smile. "Have you guessed my motto? It’s simple: Never give up!”

––Gabriele Cabras

WHAT I'M LOVING RIGHT NOW... MONCLER GAMME ROUGE JACKET

susan — Thu, 12 Apr 2012 11:36:18 -0400

I’m a big fan of Giambattista Valli’s designs for Moncler: I have two of his Gamme Rouge jackets (one for Winter, one for Spring), and I’m always on the lookout for at least one more. I love the brand’s overall aesthetic, and the coats, in particular, are chic and very easy to wear. Back in March, while in Paris for the Prêt-à-Porter, I stopped into the newly-renovated Printemps department store (which is now quite nice–cleaner, brighter and much more inviting). I went quickly from floor to floor, but couldn’t miss this gorgeous Gamme Rouge jacket–I love its shape, fabric (mesh over organza), and quirky details, like the small collar and industrial zippers. It’s very me, and I can see it becoming a staple in my wardrobe. It’s what I’m loving right now!

Photograph by Ron Reeves

PRÊT-À-PORTER FALL 2012 Elie Saab & Analeena Video Diary

susan — Mon, 23 Apr 2012 16:28:31 -0400

Join Susan on the last day of Paris Fashion Week for a striking défilé by Elie Saab, who always makes it a point to help women look beautiful. Then, stop by an intimate showroom presentation of gorgeous handbags by Analeena, plus a selection of one-of-a-kind, raw-diamond jewelry by her sister, Amalie.

CONNOISSEUR'S UPDATE WOMEN'S WATCHES–THE SKINNY

susan — Tue, 10 Jan 2012 17:44:43 -0500

Poiray Ma Première white gold or stainless-steel watches on custom straps

For several years now, the trend for watches has been to render them a little bigger each season, a little bolder, and–as a result–a bit more masculine (in my opinion). But since I don’t follow trends, I’ve stuck with my favorites and continued to wear thin watches. My gold Bulgari watch has long been a staple in my wardrobe; and for something more casual, I love Cartier and Hermès. Recently, however, I’ve noticed a move towards thinner, more elegant timepieces. Hmmm. It’s not that I’m a trendsetter–it’s just that I prefer a feminine look, and I wear what suits me. Here are some new favorites!

Buccellati Eliochron white-gold watch with diamonds

Chanel Première stainless-steel watch with diamonds on a rubber strap

Cartier Baignoire rose-gold watch with diamonds

Hermès Cape Cod GM stainless-steel watch

Chopard Ladies’ Classic white-gold watch with diamonds

Van Cleef & Arpels PA 49 white-gold watch

A TALE OF TWO CITIES NEW YORK & PARIS

susan — Wed, 18 Jan 2012 13:48:10 -0500

New York and Paris are two of the most enchanting cities in the world, and I’m fortunate to call both of them home (depending on the time of year). Of course, each city has its own, unique energy, along with all the essentials that make living between the two a real joy. Here are a few of my favorite places.

A townhouse in Greenwich Village, or an apartment in the 8th arrondissement?

BEST NEIGHBORHOOD – If I could live anywhere in New York City, I’d choose a grand apartment on Fifth Avenue in the 80s, with a terrace overlooking Central Park. However, I’d also enjoy a 10th Street townhouse in the charming West Village (and fully staffed, of course). In Paris, without question, I would only want to live in the super-chic 8th arrondissement.

Best shopping: Barneys New York and Colette, Paris

BEST PLACE TO SHOP – I usually do most of my shopping in Paris, but when I’m on this side of the Atlantic, Barneys New York is my first stop for clothes because the buyers take risks (like me). In Paris, my favorite shopping destination is Colette: I love the way the store mixes and matches pieces by different designers to create interesting looks. And I always make a trip to the Azzedine Alaïa boutique on the rue de Moussy in the Marais.

New York’s The Crown restaurant, left, and Bistro Volnay in Paris

BEST RESTAURANT – The Crown is the haunt of the glamorous and noteworthy on Manhattan’s Upper East Side–it’s elegant, quiet and provides great service and fabulous food. Downtown, Bar Pitti is a no-frills Italian trattoria where the food is out-of-this-world and the people-watching is even better. In Paris, Le Voltaire is still my favorite: the crowd is always chic and the food is sublime. Thierry, the maitre d’, is the best! I also love the classic Bistro Volnay, which is neither too trendy nor too stuffy. It’s a lovely spot with authentic Parisian atmosphere where you won’t find many Americans.

New York’s King Cole Bar vs. Le Mathis in Paris

BEST BAR – In New York, the King Cole Bar at the St. Regis hotel is the epitome of Old World class. And in-the-know fashionistas from all over the world frequent my favorite, Le Mathis, when taking in Paris fashion weeks.

Carnegie Hill Chemists in New York, and Parisian pharmacies in general

BEST PHARMACY – The Carnegie Hill Pharmacy is my neighborhood drugstore. It’s very upscale, and carries amazing products from all over the world. You can find anything from clever hair pieces to the coolest reading glasses. (I try to stock up, as I’m forever losing them.) In Paris, a favorite pastime is checking out French pharmacies. I usually find a new lotion or little-known make-up brand that can make a trip to Paris that much more fun.

The Frick Collection? Or the Musée des Arts Décoratifs?

BEST MUSEUM – The Frick Collection is housed in Henry Clay’s 1913 mansion located at the corner of Fifth Avenue and 70th Street. It’s now a fabulous museum, made all the more extraordinary because it gives you the feeling of walking into a private home that’s filled with amazing art (I’m looking forward to the Renoir exhibit in February). And in Paris, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs has gorgeous fashion exhibits that shouldn’t be missed!

Coffee to go, at Juliano’s, or a leisurely café at Café de Flore

BEST CAFÉ – Every morning, I stop at Juliano’s, on Lexington Avenue at 91st Street. It’s right around the corner from where I live, and has (I think) the best cappuccino in New York. The Café de Flore is famous, of course; but it still has that “cool” factor, and I always bump into people I know. It’s perfect for coffee or even late-night drinks, and a place to see and be seen.

The Dior Suite at the St. Regis, or the Windsor Suite at the Ritz: which would you choose?

BEST HOTEL – Friends from overseas often ask where they should stay in New York, and for me it’s the St. Regis, especially now that the Dior Suite is available. For a different vibe, the Crosby Street Hotel is more relaxed, and has a certain “hip” factor without being too minimal (as so many trendy new hotels can be). But it’s the Ritz Paris that really raises the bar in terms of service: I’ve never found a hotel that is comparable. And it’s so romantic to walk out the front door and find yourself on the Place Vendôme. J’adore!

PRÊT-À-PORTER FALL 2012 Catherine Baba for Gripoix, LONDON show ROOMS and Aurélie Demel Video Diary

susan — Thu, 19 Apr 2012 12:09:00 -0400

Join Susan amidst the Deyrolle taxidermy at the restaurant Lapérouse to see Catherine Baba‘s collection of pâte de verre jewelry for Gripoix. Continue to the LONDON show ROOMS for an intimate preview of Fall 2012 lines from designer David Koma and milliner Piers Atkinson–and, finally, attend a party chez L’Éclaireur, for the unveiling of a collaboration between rock & roll-oriented Simon Azoulay and a very talented newcomer, Aurélie Demel.

CHIC SERVICES PAVLOS SHOE REPAIR

susan — Wed, 18 Apr 2012 11:14:13 -0400

Grandmothers often have the very best tips. For example, my grandma used to say, Don’t sit in the sun after 25, and she was right–the sun is terrible for your skin. (Thank goodness I followed her advice.) She also told me about the most extraordinary shoe repair service in New York City, called Pavlos. Simply put, the experts at this little shop make old shoes look like new–and that means brand new. I have a closet full of shoes, but I also have favorite pairs that I reach for again and again. Case in point: my beloved suede mules by Manolo Blahnik (two pairs, purple and orange), which are comfortable and chic. They’re also more than twenty years old. Every time I take them back to Pavlos, the very kind owner just shakes his head and says, Hmm, I don’t know –but then he saves them. Recently, during New York Fashion Week, a friend from Paris was in town with a pair of his favorite boots, which were falling apart. (Apparently, no one in Paris would touch them.) We took them to Pavlos, where they worked their miracle–and my friend’s boots came back looking as though he’d just bought them. If you’re a shoe fanatic, Pavlos will help you maintain your collection. Thank you, Grandma!

Photograph by Ron Reeves

WHAT I'M LOVING RIGHT NOW... Amalie & Analeena

susan — Tue, 03 Apr 2012 13:33:07 -0400

Amalie (Lina’s sister) makes these extraordinary “raw-cut” diamond rings

A few years ago, while at Harrods in London, I noticed a beautiful handbag on the main floor. Its creator was Lina Hamed for Analeena, and I tucked the name away for future reference. Soon after, during the Prêt-à-Porter, I met Lina at the Hôtel George V to see her full collection–and I was bowled over! Since then, she’s been a regular stop for me during the Paris shows.

This season, I also met Lina’s sister, Amalie, who was helping to show the bag collection. I noticed a fabulous ring on Amalie’s finger–and since I’m such a jewelry fanatic, I had to ask what it was. Turns out, she’d designed it herself, and put it together using raw diamond slices (essentially, pieces that might be tossed out), which she’d shaved down even further. These stones have a subtle, glimmering appearance, not so shiny as to blind you, just understatedly chic. Now I’m obsessed: I have to have one! For the moment, Amalie makes each piece to order, but I can see great things ahead for her!

A signature bag, in ombré crocodile

As for Lina’s bags, they’re more gorgeous than ever. She produces them in all shapes and sizes, from chic day bags to evening clutches and even travel bags. One of her new designs is meant to carry documents and a laptop–but it could also work as a handbag. Each piece is versatile and functional, and Lina even includes a small flashlight (or torch, as the Brits say) with each one, making things that much easier for women who carry their lives in their sacs. In the dark, it can take a lot of time to find one’s BlackBerry or lipstick!

Lina’s clever day-to-night bag, in crocodile with a heavy gold chain

Still, in my opinion, the real pièce de résistance in this collection was Lina’s day-to-evening bag with a beautiful gold chain. She showed it made up in luxurious exotic skins, in several vibrant colors. It was really hard to choose!

Another signature Analeena combination: a crocodile bag with color-coordinated lizard handles

A sleek crocodile clutch in deep purple

Susan and Amalie pose with Amalie’s diamond flower rings on each hand

Photographs by Stéphane Israël

PRÊT-À-PORTER FALL 2012 PACO RABANNE & ALLUDE VIDEO DIARY

susan — Mon, 16 Apr 2012 11:52:55 -0400

Join Susan (along with Daphne Guinness, Jane Birkin and Bryanboy) at the Grand Palais to see Manish Arora unveil his Fall collection for Paco Rabanne. It’s a fun show, complete with chain mail dresses that strike just the right balance between runway and retail. Then, a little later, head back to the same venue to see the Allude défilé, featuring “cashmere for any mood.”

Chic Destinations ZegnArt in Rome Video Diary

susan — Wed, 11 Apr 2012 11:45:56 -0400

Join Susan in Rome for a whirlwind, two-day trip centered around the latest installment in the Ermengildo Zegna brand’s ongoing series of ZegnArt projects–in this case, the debut of a commissioned piece by Lucy + Jorge Orta at the MAXXI contemporary art museum. Guests enjoy a tour of Imperial Rome; a private viewing of the Vatican Museum; and, of course, a gala opening to celebrate the new work, Fabulae Romanae (Roman Tales). It’s an exciting event, and Anna Zegna, Gildo Zegna and their team prove to be excellent hosts. All in all, a remarkable trip that wraps up far too soon!

PRÊT-À-PORTER FALL 2012 LONDON show ROOMS: David Koma & Piers Atkinson

susan — Tue, 10 Apr 2012 13:32:15 -0400

Susan examines the cut and detailed workmanship of a David Koma shirt

During Paris Fashion Week, I always make a point of visiting the LONDON show ROOMS in Le Loft near St. Paul. Doing this in Paris allows me to see work by new British designers, without making an extra trip to London. And this season, yet again, David Koma was tops for me. He’s simply one of the most creative and talented new designers out there, and I’m always excited to see his collections. I can lose myself in David’s world, because his approach to design feels chic, cutting-edge and innovative, without going over the top.

A selection from David Koma’s Fall 2012 collection

David Koma’s shoes represent a collaboration with Alain Quilici, who created these greyhound heels

Susan with David Koma

His new-looking, yet retro-inspired, dresses were real stand-outs; and one of them (a chic grey-and-black version) fairly screamed my name! Next, David pulled out a fabulous coat and suggested I try it on: he was absolutely right, it suited me perfectly. He also showed me his take on the white shirt–a real reinvention–and his shoes (made in collaboration with Alain Quilic), with sculpted greyhound heels. I admired the creativity behind them–but I’m not the one to wear them. Still, I could have spent hours more with David. He’s a charming young man from Caucasus Georgia, and though he’s still at an early stage in his career, he already has the makings of a fashion superstar!

Modified baseball caps and witty pillboxes, by Piers Atkinson

While at LONDON show ROOMS, I also took time to see Piers Atkinson, an extraordinary milliner who worked for Zandra Rhodes for several years before launching his own collection of hats in 2008. His work is charming and inventive, and I tried on several hats hoping to find one that was suitable for a soirée I planned to attend that night. Unfortunately, nothing seemed to work with my intended ensemble –but the process was still lots of fun, all the same. Piers designs headgear that’s chic, witty or playful by turns, and most of his designs this season made me think of Michelle Harper (who happens to be a regular client, and for good reason–these inspired headpieces suit her perfectly). There were also two Japanese clients at the booth while I was there–both were very chic, very cool, and both looked great in Piers’ hats!

Beads, ribbons, felt and feathers

Piers Atkinson starts with classic hat shapes, then tweaks them as much, or as little, as he likes

Photographs by Stéphane Israël

PRÊT-À-PORTER FALL 2012 Léonard & Andrew Gn Video Diary

susan — Mon, 09 Apr 2012 11:20:34 -0400

First stop, the Léonard show, with Maxime Simoens at the creative helm (for what turned out to be his first and last collection for the house). Then, Paris Fashion Weeks continues into the weekend, with a défilé mounted Sunday morning by Andrew Gn. The lineup includes some truly beautiful pieces, especially a few of those gorgeous evening gowns. Bravo, Andrew!

PRÊT-À-PORTER FALL 2012 Elie Saab

susan — Thu, 05 Apr 2012 16:55:32 -0400

There are essentially two kinds of fashion designers: those who push the limits, and those who stay the course. Elie Saab is one of the latter–he’s really tried-and-true. He’s also one of those rare, “go-to” talents who can always be relied upon to make women look and feel absolutely beautiful.

Elie is famous for his shimmering, beaded gowns, but he opened his Fall collection with a different sensibility. He dialed back the glam quotient a lot, showing simple day clothes in muted colors like ash grey, sand, jade green and black. I particularly liked the form-fitting dresses, and the tops with small peplums, paired with skirts. They were slinky and sexy, but sophisticated.

Hong Kong-based model, actress and blogger, Angelababy, poses for photographers at Elie Saab

Hofit Golan and actress Rosario Dawson

The designer, Elie Saab

The business suits–a departure for Elie–weren’t as successful as the dresses, perhaps because this man loves beauty. In fact, after the muted opening, the collection became much more familiar, including jewel-toned gowns (sublime, as always). But I admire Elie for deviating, if only slightly, from the status quo. It was a welcome change, and I look forward to seeing more!

Photographs by Stéphane Israël

PRÊT-À-PORTER FALL 2012 Allude

susan — Thu, 05 Apr 2012 11:16:52 -0400

Allude is a German company specializing in elegant (and quite luxurious) cashmere garments–but as its founder and creative director, Andrea Karg, explained to me, her brand isn’t really about fashion. In fact, Allude has been around for almost 20 years (it was established in 1993, in Munich), but this was the first time the brand presented a défilé during the Paris Prêt-à-Porter.

Being unfamiliar with the brand, I was curious to see the show: after all, what woman doesn’t love cashmere for her Fall wardrobe? And by the end of the défilé, I was impressed–Andrea is very creative (honestly, how many ways can you think of showing cashmere?), and the combinations seemed endless: sweaters, twin sets, cache coeurs and cardigans, along with skirts, trousers, capes, throws, tunics and coats. Perhaps because they offered a break from all that cashmere, I particularly liked the colorful silk skirts mixed with the rest of the collection. Best of all, everything was beautifully made.

Susan with Andrea Karg, Allude’s creative director

Allude was one of the last shows on the Prêt-à-Porter schedule (by which point I was weary), but I was glad to see it–Andrea’s work acted like a real pick-me-up, and now I’m looking forward to what she’ll do for next Spring!

Photographs by Stéphane Israël

PRÊT-À-PORTER FALL 2012 Paco Rabanne

susan — Mon, 02 Apr 2012 15:19:45 -0400

Manish Arora designs under his own name, for his own label, but he’s also the creative director for the house of Paco Rabanne. Of course, it’s always challenging for a new designer to take the helm at such a well-known brand, especially one so deeply-rooted in its own sense of history (and of heritage).

I thought Manish did a great job–and I while I didn’t like everything equally well, there were many pieces I could easily imagine wearing. I especially loved his skillful combinations of fabrics and textures: and his use of chain mail–a house signature–was very successful, especially when used subtly. (The glitzy gold and silver looks were often a bit much.) I was also pleased to spot a sleek white pantsuit–simple and elegant–and a beautiful silver-satin coat that would be perfect for evening when mixed with something else.

I was also taken with one particular coat, cropped short, with short sleeves and a zipper around the hips, above. It looked very chic, and very new, and it seemed to strike just the right balance between the old Paco Rabanne (from the days of Françoise Hardy and Brigitte Bardot) and the modern needs of a contemporary woman, here and now, in 2012. Congratulations, Manish!

Paco Rabanne’s creative director, Manish Arora, takes a bow

Photographs by Stéphane Israël

PRÊT-À-PORTER FALL 2012 LÉONARD

susan — Fri, 30 Mar 2012 11:49:26 -0400

I’ve passed the Léonard boutique on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré countless times, and always admired the bold, Pucci-esque prints showcased in its windows. The styling was classic–perhaps overly so–but these were clothes I could make my own: easy to wear and to pack, and always reliable.

Susan in her seat at Léonard, waiting for the show to begin

This season, Maxime Simoens was tapped to be the new artistic director chez Léonard, probably with the intent of infusing new blood into the label. Maxime is a darling of the new generation of designers, and he’s earned the fashion world’s respect with his collections for both the Prêt-à-Porter and the Haute Couture. Maxime has good ideas–but I felt, after seeing this défilé, that while putting his stamp on Léonard, he lost a bit of the brand’s DNA.

Maxime used a few prints, invoking classic Léonard–but many of the dresses were cut too short, and there were a few peplum jackets that looked unlikely to flatter the label’s mature clientele. Maxime said he wanted a bit of “rock & roll,” which may have been the problem: some items were pretty, but they seemed to have been designed for a different brand, with younger customers.

Mareva Galanter

Susan and Maxime Simoens, the designer of this one collection for Léonard

Not surprisingly, I soon learned that this was Maxime’s first and last show for Léonard; rumor now has him moving to Christian Dior, while Raffaele Borriello (formerly the artistic director for Requiem) will replace him at Léonard. Which is probably the better choice: Raffaele’s sensibility is more classic, with a modern touch. Of course, no one ever knows for sure what will happen in Fashion’s endless game of musical chairs–only time will tell!

Photographs by Stéphane Israël

PRÊT-À-PORTER FALL 2012 LANVIN & SONIA RYKIEL VIDEO DIARY

susan — Thu, 29 Mar 2012 12:45:47 -0400

Join Susan in the cavernous Halle Freyssinet, gorgeously decorated for this one night with gilt candelabras, cakes and party favors in celebration of Alber Elbaz‘s 10th anniversary as artistic director for the house of Lanvin. Then enjoy another Parisian institution, the charming Sonia Rykiel show, now directed by Nathalie Rykiel (Sonia’s daughter) but still imbued with that certain je ne sais quoi that seems to make French girls so very, very chic!

PRÊT-À-PORTER FALL 2012 John Galliano

susan — Tue, 27 Mar 2012 15:19:19 -0400

Susan arrives at the studio with members of her editorial team

The Prêt-à-Porter is a busy time, especially for designers, so I felt lucky to schedule a studio visit with Bill Gaytten, creative director at John Galliano, for a preview of Fall 2012. His atelier is amazing–a soaring space, housed in a former doll factory in the 20th arrondissement. And I was thrilled to have the opportunity to see his collection a day before it came down the runway. I wish I could do this all the time–it’s the perfect way to get double exposure.

The workroom, seen from above, with patterns for the Fall collection on the mannequins

Bill Gaytten, creative director at John Galliano, talks Susan through the collection

Bill told me his inspiration this season was an ode to the 19th-century British artist, Aubrey Beardsley. Decadent, dark and sexy were the words he used to describe the collection, which also had an undercurrent of l’équestrienne : riding jackets, breeches and some fabulous feathered hats by Stephen Jones.

A fringed leather coat, third from left, was a real winner…

…as was this pale blue gown (far right)

Stephen Jones, Susan and Bill Gaytten

It was great to see each garment “up close and personal,” in such an intimate presentation. The preview also provided a new and exciting perspective on the collection, and made the clothes come alive on the catwalk the next day.

The show opened with models wearing short riding jackets and not much else–just leggings and stiletto boots or shoes, topped off with elaborate hats that made everything look finished, but sexy. And there were lots of capes, including one built into the shoulders of a gown, which was rather chic.

One coat I’d seen in the preview, made of hundreds of small, leather points, was a real winner; but my favorite was a sheer, high-necked Victorian gown in pale blue, below. It was sexy, chic and understated, all at the same time.

The show was full of drama: the models started out in day clothes (perhaps heading off for an afternoon ride?), but then gradually changed into sexy gowns for their evening soirées. And the darkened set, with absolutely no frills, provided a perfect opportunity to focus on the clothes. So I did!

Michelle Harper, Stephen Jones, and Susan

Photographs by Stéphane Israël

Chic Travel ZegnArt in Rome

susan — Tue, 27 Mar 2012 13:07:38 -0400

The gorgeous Hotel Boscolo Exedra Roma, all lit up

While in Paris last month for the Prêt-à-Porter, I happened to see a friend of mine who’s the social media specialist at Ermenegildo Zegna. He told me the Zegna team had a lovely proposition in mind: would I care to attend the company’s upcoming ZegnArt unveiling (and related celebrations) in Rome? There was no need to ask twice–I hadn’t been to Rome in a while, and I love the Zegna brand. They took care of all details, and on March 20, I arrived at the fab Hotel Boscolo Exedra Roma and was whisked right up to my room.

Diane Pernet, left, and Valeria Maggiora

As I was to learn over the course of the next two days, Ermenegildo Zegna is an old family brand, committed to quality and fine workmanship, but it also has another focus–supporting art now, and for the future. The “big event” on March 21st would inaugurate an installation by Lucy and Jorge Orta entitled Fabulae Romanae (Roman Tales), commissioned by Zegna’s art foundation, ZegnArt, for Rome’s impressive new contemporary art museum– MAXXI.

Our quick tour of Rome included a stop at the world-famous Coliseum

For much of the first day, we were taken around Rome, including visits to the Coliseum, the Forum and other historic spots. In the early evening, we were offered a private tour of the Vatican–and since it had been years since I’d last visited, it was wonderful to see it again. That night, we attended a fabulous dinner at the Galleria Doria Pamphilj, in a privately-owned, 17th-century palace museum that is open to the public and also used for events. It’s a breathtaking, gemlike setting, and I, for one, was completely wowed!

The Vatican Museum is always impressive

The press conference at the MAXXI Museum provided detailed information about the exhibit

The next day brought a press conference at the MAXXI Museum, where I found myself duly impressed by the ZegnArt Project’s philosophy: that art and fashion naturally go together. This relationship would be underscored by staging the event at MAXXI, with the support of London College’s Centre for Sustainable Fashion. And the commission itself, of course, was awarded by the Gruppo Ermenegildo Zegna–a fashion company steeped in tradition but still mindful of looking to the future, and integrating both points of view.

Artists Lucy and Jorge Orta talk to the press

The beautiful garden courtyard at the Hotel de Russie

After the press conference, we headed to the Hotel de Russie for lunch in its well-known garden. This charming spot is the hotel’s best feature–and the glorious weather allowed us to relax and enjoy a delicious, al fresco meal.

Riccardo Pozzoli and Susan, en route to the Zegna boutique

Before that evening’s gala, my friend Yigit asked me to stop by the new Ermenegildo Zegna boutique to help dress a client for the party. The store, on Via dei Condotti, is very handsome–and it was nice to see those famous alligator shoes I love, along with a new collection of silk suits for men. As Gildo Zegna told me, men can wear silk, too. I insisted Riccardo try one on!

The new Ermenegildo Zegna boutique: four floors of beautiful clothes, on Rome’s Via dei Condotti

A salesperson displays some of the store’s handsome alligator shoes

The Zegna boutique’s formal section offers plenty of dapper options

Riccardo (or Richie, as he’s known) heads to a dressing room

Ermenegildo Zegna’s Yigit Turhan, left, escorts Susan to the party

Our two days in Rome were capped off by a spectacular gala event, with 900 guests (and 300 journalists) from around the world meeting again at the MAXXI Museum (which, by the way, is a great place to throw a party). This time, everyone was dressed to the nines, and we were wined and dined royally. A well-known DJ, Philippe Cohen Solal (aka Gotan Project) came in from London, and he pumped up the volume so guests could dance!

Blogger Chiara Ferragni (The Blonde Salad) and her boyfriend, Richie

A group of young and avid art fans (or are they fashionistas?) at the gala opening

Susan and Leigh Lezark of The Misshapes

An introduction to Lucy + Jorge Orta’s Fabulae Romanae

A portion of Lucy + Jorge Orta’s sculpture installation…

…and another. Parachuting figures were just part of the display

Gildo Zegna, left, and Susan at the gala opening

DJ Gotan Project, known as Philippe Cohen Solal when not at work

The revelry and high spirits continued well into the night

Of course, I was sad when it was over: the two days raced by quickly, and we did a lot in a short time. Bravo, again, to everyone at Ermenegildo Zegna. By all reckoning, the event was a great success, and I had a wonderful time!

Photographs by Arnaud Paumier

Chic Shopping In Rome Ermenegildo Zegna Video Diary

susan — Mon, 26 Mar 2012 15:20:10 -0400

The Ermenegildo Zegna brand’s ZegnArt division recently celebrated the Rome debut of Lucy + Jorge Orta’s sculpture and video installation, Fabulae Romanae. While in town for the gala dinner and related festivities, Susan visited the company’s new store on Rome’s famous shopping street, Via dei Condotti. Join her as she helps Riccardo Pozzoli suit up for the big night.

PRÊT-À-PORTER FALL 2012 Catherine Baba for Gripoix

susan — Fri, 23 Mar 2012 15:44:36 -0400

I often think about interviewing Catherine Baba, a true personage on the Paris fashion scene and someone I’ve long admired for her extraordinary personal style. (She tends to favor turbans, combined with unusual vintage clothes and accessories, so she really stands out!) Through years of attending fashion events in Paris, I’ve gotten to know Catherine, and I now realize it’s not just her ensembles that are so unique–it’s her entire persona. She has a way of speaking (often in the third person) that’s very distinctive: she greets me with Devotion instead of Hello; she often exclaims J’adore; and when she says dahhling, it’s not prentious, it’s just Catherine! During the most recent Prêt-à-Porter, I bumped into her at the Zandra Rhodes show, and she promptly invited me to a launch party celebrating her collaboration with the legendary Parisian costume jewelry house, Gripoix. It was to be held at Lapérouse–the hotspot of the moment–and of course I made plans to attend.

Catherine Baba shows Susan a powder compact-and-mirror ring

It was a glorious event. Catherine designed twelve remarkable pieces, which she’d chosen to display on taxidermy animals (which seemed, oddly enough, perfectly apropos). Stylish DJ Leigh Lezark was there, along with Sonja Kinski (Nastassja Kinski’s daughter) and Tilda Swinton. My favorite items were the Venus cuff (symbolizing the goddess of Love and Beauty) and the Vanity ring (complete with a mirrored compact). And even though Catherine and I have different styles, I could definitely see myself wearing these pieces!

Photographs by Stéphane Israël

PRÊT-À-PORTER FALL 2012 Andrew Gn

susan — Thu, 22 Mar 2012 11:01:10 -0400

I met Andrew Gn several years ago and ended up visiting him in his atelier, where we had a lovely chat and walked through his most recent collection. I remember buying an unusual coat from him, made of brown velour with a rather Victorian collar–and that laced-up, almost Gothic, sensibility seemed to be his theme again for Fall 2012 (with sexy, modern twists, of course). As I watched the défilé, it also became obvious that Andrew is a master when it comes to coats: this collection featured them in all shapes, sizes and lengths.

Andrew’s choice of venue–the Westin Hotel’s rather gloomy, 19th-century Salon Impérial–was moody and dark (and suggestive of Victorian heroines, perhaps); and many of the short coats chosen to open the show looked heavy or awkward, especially those with fur epaulettes. But these were followed by longer, more feminine designs, several of which I could imagine wearing.

Overall, this collection struck me as a somewhat commercial rendering of Gn’s aesthetic (as an avid client told me after the show, his designs are, at the least, consistent). But with the exception of a few gowns (including one that echoed the velour coat I bought years ago), this show didn’t wow me the way others have. That said, I’ll always want to see what Andrew does next!

Andrew Gn and Susan, backstage after the show

Photographs by Stéphane Israël

PRÊT-À-PORTER FALL 2012 LANVIN

susan — Wed, 21 Mar 2012 11:40:37 -0400

Time flies, and it’s hard to believe it’s been ten years since Alber Elbaz began his work as artistic director for the house of Lanvin. I’m a longtime fan: I started buying Lanvin clothes and accessories at the very beginning of Alber’s association with the brand, so now I have a beautiful wardrobe of perfect items I’ve collected over time, begging to be worn again and again.

This season’s défilé offered many of Alber’s signature looks, but he didn’t simply lift them from earlier collections–as always, he tweaked and refined his vision in the search for something new. He addressed many of his favorite motifs (shapely silhouettes included), but took the overall collection in exciting directions, opening with vibrant, body-conscious dresses in a neoprene-like fabric that gave structure to peplums and collar frills; segueing to racy black leathers and high-glam gold brocade (with matching boots); and ending with indulgent cocktail wonders in whimsical floral prints. Along the way, the ensembles were variously finished with bright gloves, fur stoles, surrealistic plastic-and-mirror costume jewelry or crystal-beaded shoes.

After the show, the Halle Freyssinet turned into a party venue, complete with decorations and a live band

Alber Elbaz and Susan at Lanvin’s anniversary party after the show

It was a beautiful show, and as it came to an end, the audience responded with a well-deserved standing ovation. The cavernous Halle Freyssinet had been decorated as though for a birthday party, with lovely cakes, canapes and Champagne–and Alber’s rendition of Que Sera, Sera announced the opening of an enormous stage where everyone gathered to celebrate his 10th anniversary and another smashing show. It wasn’t easy to move through the crowd, but I reached Alber, gave him a big hug and offered him my heartfelt “congratulations.” He told me he loved me, but I’m sure he said that to many people that day! In any case, he sounded sincere, and I love him, too!

Leigh Lezark, of the DJ trio The Misshapes, joins the party wearing a lace bunny-ear mask

Susan at the Lanvin party with Chinese actress, Yao Chen

Just before the show, I’d chatted with Lanvin’s CEO, Thierry Andretta, a charming man who told me Alber had been “a little stressed out” by the impending anniversary (a normal reaction, of course). Even before seeing the collection, I told Thierry I knew I would love it. In fact, it’s hard not to love Lanvin–and in this collection, especially, there wasn’t a piece I wouldn’t be happy to own. Now, that’s successful design! Alber has proven himself to be a charming, soulful member of the fashion community, but his star rose first and foremost because of the inherent beauty of his designs. That’s what strikes a chord with all women (myself included)–that sense of connection–and the happy realization that this man’s clothes will always work for me!

Photographs by Stéphane Israël

PRÊT-À-PORTER FALL 2012 John Galliano Atelier Visit With Bill Gaytten & Défilé Video Diary

susan — Tue, 20 Mar 2012 10:37:07 -0400

In this video, Susan offers a rare, insider’s look at the Fall ‘12 John Galliano collection, thanks to a studio preview of the show’s highlights conducted by Bill Gaytten, the label’s creative director. Hear him discuss the collection’s equestrian theme while pointing out specific details on key garments, then watch those same pieces come down the runway (worn by some of the most beautiful models in the world). It’s a special opportunity, not to be missed!

PRÊT-À-PORTER FALL 2012 Sonia Rykiel

susan — Mon, 19 Mar 2012 10:47:05 -0400

I’ve long admired Nathalie Rykiel, the current president and artistic director of her mother’s namesake company, Sonia Rykiel. I first met Nathalie when I interviewed her for my book, Chic In Paris, and I was impressed with her many great ideas. It was a real pleasure to highlight a chic, intelligent woman who also has a fabulous sense of humor, and who is working diligently to preserve a singularly charming (and utterly feminine) Parisian fashion house.

The good news? The brand is still growing: a new creative director, April Critchon, was appointed this past Fall, and just last month, 80% of the company was acquired by Fung Brands (a London-based division of the Li & Fung Group). But along with these changes, the brand has turned slightly mainstream, as it tries to woo new customers from around the globe–just as so many brands are being forced to do. That said, I still enjoyed the show!

I particularly loved the ivory knits and some of the suits, which looked très Parisienne. The long, flowing dresses were not as succeessful, but just might appeal to certain customers. As usual, the show’s finale was characteristically upbeat, and sent us all out on a high note. That’s the very best mood to be in when leaving a défilé, as I’m sure Nathalie Rykiel herself would agree!

Susan with Nathalie Rykiel after the show

Photographs by Stéphane Israël

PRÊT-À-PORTER FALL 2012 MANISH ARORA

susan — Mon, 19 Mar 2012 11:31:10 -0400

Last season was my first time seeing the colorful work of the Indian designer Manish Arora –and that show was so much fun, and so creative, I was really looking forward to seeing his Fall collection during the Prêt-à-Porter.

This time, Manish staged his défilé on the docks in the 13th arrondissement. It was an odd choice: the weather in Paris was already chilly, and being on the water didn’t help. For inspiration, Manish drew on surreal images created by Judith Supine, a Brooklyn-based street artist who assembles his Day-Glo collages using found pictures, X-ACTO knives, glue sticks and cheap paint.

Aptly enough, the show’s backdrop was a long wall partially covered with graffiti–and even as the models began sweeping down the runway, workers in black hoodies and jeans continued spray-painting behind them (it was a fun diversion, watching them complete the inscription Life Is Beautiful in bright pink, yellow, green, orange and blue). Unfortunately, many of the clothes themselves, while equally vibrant, looked a bit flimsy; and their over-decorated appearance made the collection feel rather fussy, too. Overall, this presentation lacked most of the drama and charm of last season’s show.

Fortunately, the finale was good-looking and upbeat, as the models lined up along the wall wearing graffiti-printed frocks that blended seamlessly with the tableau (at which point Manish stepped out to take his bow). The man is certainly inventive, and I look forward to future wows from him. I’m also curious to see what he’ll do in his new position at the helm of Paco Rabanne!

Photographs by Stéphane Israël

PRÊT-À-PORTER FALL 2012 Zandra Rhodes Retrospective

susan — Fri, 16 Mar 2012 12:02:51 -0400

When I read that the extraordinary British designer, Zandra Rhodes, would present an archival retrospective during the Fall Prêt-à-Porter in Paris, I felt very excited. Zandra is a vibrant example of fashion history come to life: she studied textile design at The Royal College of Art; opened her first London store, The Fulham Road Clothes Shop, in 1967; launched her own collection in 1969 (and took New York by storm in the process); then established an eponymous London boutique in 1975. Over the years, she often showed her work in London or New York, but she hasn’t chosen Paris since the 1970’s.

in London during the 1980’s, Zandra produced some of the most spectacular défilés in that city–but she hasn’t put on a runway show since 2007, while promoting her colorful makeup collection for MAC Cosmetics. Since then, however, she’s safeguarded many of her original pieces, except for those already in the vaults of such illustrious places as London’s Victoria & Albert Musueum, and the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute in New York.

The garments Zandra chose to show at On/Off Paris were carefully selected from the archives–most were museum (or musuem-quality) pieces, and very fragile. They represented the full range of Zandra’s talent and showcased many of her pioneering techniques: external seaming; scalloped edges and handkerchief hems; feather work; beading on fabric or appliqués (including safety pins) and, throughout it all, a signature use of intricate printed fabrics.

Susan and Zandra Rhodes

It was a treat to see Zandra’s archives, offering both a “blast from the past” and a sense of some things being timeless. In fact, there were several outfits I would wear right now—especially for big events. After all, Zandra’s clothes are designed to attract attention. You could even call them “show stoppers!”

Photographs by Stéphane Israël

PRÊT-À-PORTER FALL 2012 Guy Laroche & Zandra Rhodes Video Diary

susan — Wed, 14 Mar 2012 13:01:58 -0400

Marcel Marongiu’s Fall ‘12 collection for Guy Laroche is all about rigorous minimalism taken to luxurious extremes. Join Susan as she interviews the designer who “knows what women want,” and see the défilé (featuring “gold galore”) come down the catwalk. Then take in a retrospective-cum-runway show mounted by the irrepressible British designer, Zandra Rhodes. Her extraordinary and inventive clothes were decades ahead of their time, so now they’ve come “out of the cupboard” for a refresher course in fashion history!

PRÊT-À-PORTER FALL 2012 GUY LAROCHE

susan — Tue, 13 Mar 2012 11:15:33 -0400

The Guy Laroche runway before the start of the show, from the audience’s point of view…

I met Marcel Marongiu, the artistic director for the house of Guy Laroche, in 2009. In the nearly three years since, we’ve become great friends, which makes it both very easy and rather difficult to report on him and his designs. As a friend, I only want to say good things about his work (which I love, for the most part); but in any of his collections, there will always be individual colors, concepts, fabrics or silhouettes I like more than others. The nice thing about our relationship is that I can say what I feel yet not hurt his feelings.

…and backstage with Susan, in the midst of controlled chaos

This season, I arranged to have a sneak peek at the collection, much to my friend’s dismay (he’d wanted it to be a surprise), and I’m glad I did–Marcel had been telling me for months about the rich fabrics he would use and how luxurious the collection would be. It’s often difficult to appreciate a runway collection’s nuances if you only see it pass by once (and quickly, at that), so I was pleased to have had a leisurely preview before the défilé even started.

Marcel Marongiu, Guy Laroche’s artistic director

Guy Laroche has a long history (it was founded as a maison de couture in 1957), but today it’s an underestimated brand, deserving of more attention. Of course, as is the case with any runway show, a designer must prove himself in twenty minutes or less. It seems brutal, but that’s how it works.

The final touches are applied to model Magdalena Frackowiak’s face and hair

For Fall ‘12, Marcel took inspiration from architectural photographs by Aitor Ortiz–particularly his images of demolished buildings, which Marcel found simultaneously disturbing and appealing. This is often the case with Marcel: he has a yin-yang approach to designing that renders his clothes both sexy and understatedly feminine. For example, I’ll sometimes see pieces from an upcoming collection hanging in his studio, but I can’t tell what they look like until I try them on and everything falls into place. Why? Because Marcel doesn’t design for shock value or hanger appeal–instead, he relies on a rare combination of intelligence and experience to make women look amazing. For this collection, even the shoes and bags were fab, and everything was designed by Marcel. All of which represents an enormous amount of work!

That said, there were a few specific pieces that really stood out for me on the runway, including a short jacket in cayenne-colored silk–the cut and even the color (not typically a favorite) said, yes, this is you! Then there were some beautiful, transparent tops (so chic, and very wearable) and a grey, metallic-silk blouson top with a long, flowing skirt that looked amazing. I also loved a pearl organza blouse shown with a knee-length black skirt; the sweaters and coats of Mongolian lamb; and the striking finale of gold-trimmed pieces in black velvet. Gold with black is proving to be a real trend for Fall, which I happened to mention to Marcel after the show. His response? He’d found his own inspiration in Ortiz’s photographs, and wasn’t following any trends.

But my favorite look in the whole show was this richly-textured gold outfit, above, especially the jacket-like top with its three-quarter sleeves. The entire ensemble is made of glittering paillettes affixed so densely to a tricot base that Marcel calls the material “paillette fur.” Something this bold makes a truly modern statement, and I could see myself wearing it to a swish soirée!

Susan with Claus Lindorff, backstage after the show

Getting to know Marcel Marongiu has been wonderful, and I’ve really come to appreciate his sincere desire to help women look beautiful, and modern. I have a well-developed sense of what looks good on me, but Marcel can also inspire me to push at the edges of my “comfort zone.” I won’t wear anything I don’t like–but I love wearing Marcel’s clothes, especially when observers respond with enthusiasm. All during New York Fashion Week, for example, people stopped to ask what I had on. The answer was often Guy Laroche!

Photographs by Stéphane Israël

Prêt-à-Porter FALL 2012 ANTHONY VACCARELLO & Manish Arora Video Diary

susan — Fri, 09 Mar 2012 11:18:43 -0500

Anthony Vaccarello designs clothes that can look drop-dead chic on the right sort of body–one that’s slender, of course, and preferably all legs. (That’s Gwyneth Paltrow wearing one of his slit-up-to-there dresses on the March 2012 cover of Harper’s Bazaar.) Join Susan on the first day of Paris Fashion Week to see Vaccarello’s Fall collection come down the runway, then switch gears and trade cool minimalism for over-the-top color and flair at Manish Arora. There’s always a range of ideas at the Prêt-à-Porter!