Tallabomba Blog

Photo of the Day: Mountain road in Timor Leste

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 05:27:00 +0000

Mountain road near Atsabe, East Timor.

Photo of the Day: The road to Oinlasi

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Sat, 24 Oct 2009 06:45:00 +0000

Steep and rough mountain road from the south coast of Timor to the market town Oinlasi. The photo is taken near the highest point at 1100 meters above sea levelTimor, Nusa Tenggara.

Photo of the Day: Village in East Timor mountains

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Fri, 23 Oct 2009 04:13:00 +0000

A chapel in a small village along the Atsabe road in the mountinous interior south of Dili, East Timor.

Photo of the Day: Beached

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 06:46:00 +0000

Fishing boat beached at low tide just east of Dili, East Timor (Timor Leste).

Photo of the day: Taxi Driver

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Tue, 20 Oct 2009 06:13:00 +0000

A Dili taxi driver is taking a break at the beach west of the airport. Dili, East Timor.

East Timor - Under UN Occupation

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Tue, 20 Oct 2009 05:30:00 +0000

The beach road east of Dili, on the way to the Jesus statue at Cape Fatucama.

Arriving in East Timor is like arriving in an occupied country, but it's not occupied by one single country. The United Nations have occupied the country and it's hard to ignore their presence. Big white SUV:s travel up and down the streets of the Capital (Dili), and the main highway along the northern coast (fewer venture into the mountainous interior and the southern coast).

I cycled across the border at Motain/Batugade, and camped and continued slowly along the coast on the way to Dili. There are some beautiful white sand beaches with nothing else than the locals fishing canoes and huts.

In the Capital i got my new Indonesian visa at the embassy, then cycled across the mountains to the southern coast. Roads are ok between major towns, but the Atsabe road was in a terrible state, with hardly any asphalt left, steep inclines, bathtub sized potholes, and hardly any facilities. The road goes through a few small villages, but only one or two has a warung (food stall or cheap resturant). There is simply not enough of a local economy to justify it. Small kiosks exist where there may be some instantt noodles, coffee sachets and washing powder. Life is very traditional, which means that men get drunk and play cards, while women work in the small, dry pathches of soil.

Timor Leste is an interesting, young little country, but I hope they can get rid of the NGO:s and the UN soon, and be free to create their own economy.

Flores - A summary

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Sun, 04 Oct 2009 09:19:00 +0000

The colored crater lakes at Kelimutu, Flores, Nusa Tenggara Timur, Indonesia.

Rumors had it that Flores would be tough to cycle on. The Lonely Planet author was writing about razor sharp ridges and v-shaped valleys, and that cycling was not to think about except for Tour de France trainees. There are some sharp ridges, steep mountain sides, and narrow valleys, but it's not extreme in any way, and the main road (and a few others) is paved, and is not too steep when it winds its way up and down mountain sides, over passes, down to river crossings, and along steep sea shores, with hundreds of ravines. I cycled from west to east; Labuanbajo to Larantuka, and had a few days rest in Ende along the way. It was four and a half cycling days to Ende, and another three and a half to Larantuka, including the detour to Kelimutu.

Things to see include the spectacular crater lakes at Kelimutu. The three lakes can be seen from one hill in the middle, and the colors of the lakes are changing color, due to chemical processes in the craters. Unfortunately two of the most beautiful lakes had exactly the same color when I was there. It's possible to cycle all the way up to the parking lot next to the sight, and camp there, as I did. A few ladies walk the 7 kilometers here every morning and arrive at 4.30 a.m. to welcome the tourists with sales pitches for ikat cloth, coffee and snacks. At sunset they walk the same way back with all the unsold stuff on their heads.

Snorkeling, swimming and diving is another thing to do around the island. I only had a dip along the road at a small and empty beach to cool off one morning. There are plenty of reefs and white sand beaches visible from the main highway, and a lot more further away, and on smaller islands nearby.

Around Bejawa many villages are very traditional, and still use their odd looking houses, and rituals. There are also at least three volcanoes to climb (and many more around the island).

The Flores Hobbit, a recent relative to our own species, was found here in a cave.

The inhabitants of today look more Malay in the west, and more Polynesian in the east. They are all very friendly and cheerful, and love to see a crazy foreigner cycling through on a bicycle. I was invited to sleep and/or eat with families at several occations along the way.

On A Pelni Ship During Ramadan

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Thu, 17 Sep 2009 06:44:00 +0000

Just arrived to Labuanbajo, Flores, Nusa Tenggara Timor, this morning. The ship was extremely overbooked. I had to sleep curled up on top of a large metal box outside on deck five. The box had a sign in Indonesian that probably translates to something like "Do not sit or put anything on top of this container". The Tilongkabila was on time though. It took 18 hours to cross the Flores Sea from Makassar, Sulawesi.

Sulawesi - Heaven or hell

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Sun, 23 Aug 2009 13:00:00 +0000

Arriving on the pier at Toli-Toli was extremely hectic. Porters were running aboard shouting (to get passengers to move out of their way) to get to the goods or bags as fast as possible. Fortunately the port is small, and few people were getting on and off. After less than ten minutes I was on the road south through the streets of Toli-Toli. I didn't stop in town, but kept cycling out of curiosity about this island.

It soon started raining, and I had to stop at a small shop. The shopkeeper sold me instant noodles, but not just dry ones in plastic wrappers. She actually made me soup, and charged the normal price for the noodles.

Later, after a few kilometers cycling, the rain continued and it was getting dark. A man on a bicycle invited me to stay in his house. I accepted to camp on his veranda.

In the morning the weather was great again and I started an amazing journey south along the west coast of Central Sulawesi. After a steep climb over a little mountain pass I entered a beautiful landscape on a small but good enough road with hardly any traffic at all. The few vehicles I encountered were motorbikes, and the odd truck. The hills were covered in dense jungle, and the valley floor had tiny hamlets, rice paddies and sometimes a small football field and a church or mosque.

Further on the road followed the shore, with beautiful white sand beaches, coral reefs just off the shore, small outrigger fishing boats in bright colors, coconut palms, kakao beans left out to dry, cows and buffalo in the middle of the road, and an ever present wildlife consisting of large and colorful butterflies, birds of prey, swiftlets and hornbills. In the hills there were monkeys, and lizards were basking in the sun along the side of the road in the morning. Every ten kilometers or so, there was a small village, with at least one hut selling basic stuff like coffee, sweets, instant noodles and fruit. The shopkeepers would offer to make noodle soup and coffee (add hot water and bring it out in a bowl and cup respectivly) for no or almost no extra cost. Neighbors, and all the kids in town, would come out to meet the strange white person. Kids and adults alike would shout a friendly "hello misterrrrr!" or just "hello!", or just wave their hands as a greeting. The easy beach road cycling was repeatedly interrupted by steep climbs over jungle covered ridges reaching the sea from the mountains in the interior.

If you have seen the opening scene of the movie A Thin Red Line, you know the feeling I got from riding through this area. It is simply paradise cycling.

Yes, there is a 'but'. For the locals living here it may not be such a paradise. One guy was complaining about the poverty in these villages. It's not like they're starving or anything, but they are surly economically behind the big cities and the richer parts of Indonesia, not to mention the richer parts of Asia or the world. A few more tourists would not hurt at all (according to more than one person, I was the first westerner stopping in their villages - not only the first cyclist), and increased productivity in the local agriculture, and improved infrastructure, would make a big difference.

The Boardwalks of Tarakan

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Thu, 13 Aug 2009 10:46:00 +0000

Traveling from Tawau in Sabah (Malaysian Borneo) to Tarakan on the Indonesian side of the border involves a long boat trip, and a significant culture shock. In Tawau you're left alone, and most people act as if they have met westerners before and make not big fuss about it. In Tarakan on the other hand, the situation for a white foreigner is very different. As soon as you step onto the pier in the harbor, you are bombarded by cheerful and excited "Hello Mister!", and questions about nationality, name, and what not. Few speak any English beyond the standard phrases or questions, and do not understand or care to try to understand an answer.

I've been in the town for three days now, and only today did I meet the first westerner here - a French journalist writing about refugees in this border area.

There is not much to do here except waiting for a boat to Borneo proper, or destinations further away, like Sulawesi, Java, or Papua.

There are however some interesting thins to see. Forget about the "swimming beach" mentioned in a popular (and infamous) guidebook. It's a mud field on the shore, with a couple resturants. No sober and sane person would even consider going for a swim there. And calling it a good beach would be considered a bad joke.

Then there are some old oil pumps around. They look like they should be in a museum, but still pumping up that black gold day and night. Tankers are filling it up at a pier to take it to Balikpapan or further.

The best part of Tarakan is hidden behind the houses of the main street, and covers a large area all the way out to the proper waterfront. This part of town is flooded twice a day by the tide, and all houses are built on stilts in the mud. It's a poor part of town and it's all mad accessible by a maze of clunky wooden boardwalks and canals for small colorful boats. Motorbikes run up and down the narrow allies, and all the loose planks make an deafening noise. There is a whole town out here, with small shops, barbers, cell phone and outboard motor workshops, and mini wharfs. The rustic wooden houses are all covered with corrugated sheet metal. Some rustier than others. The boats are colorful, as are the lines of drying laundry and the people.

Photo of the day: Point of view

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Wed, 01 Jul 2009 00:09:00 +0000

Shell on beach in Merang, Terrengganu, Malaysia.

Photo of the day: Boat on empty beach

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Tue, 30 Jun 2009 08:13:00 +0000

Small boat on beach near Rantau Abang, Terangganu, Malaysia.

Photo of the day: Lazy days

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Mon, 29 Jun 2009 06:33:00 +0000

Dog at a beach café in Cherating, Pahang, Malaysia.

Photo of the day: Toe massage

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Mon, 29 Jun 2009 06:28:00 +0000

Young monkey sucking his toe in Cherating, Pahang, Malaysia.

Photo of the day: Jungle component

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Sat, 20 Jun 2009 09:40:00 +0000

Leaf and sky at Kampung Kuala Tahan, Pahang, Malaysia.

Photo of the day: Canopy Walk

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Sat, 20 Jun 2009 09:20:00 +0000

The Canopy Walk in Taman Negara National Park, Malaysia.

Till jungeln

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Fri, 19 Jun 2009 08:17:00 +0000

Trafikdödad ödla längs vägen mot Jerantut och Taman Negara.

2009-06-04

Jag packar ihop tältet och cyklar vidare mot Taman Negara vid niotiden. Snackar med sågverksarbetare på en vägkrog vid vägskälet. Det är varmt och soligt hela dagen och jag cyklar med långärmad skjorta för att inte bränna mig mer. Det är ingen stor höjdskillnad men vägen är mycket kuperad. Bitvis är det riktig djungel, men nära vägen är det mest oljepalmodlingar och gummiträd. Det finns några få vägkrogar med enklare mat och dryck längs den 65 kilometer långa vägen. Väl framme i Kuala Tahan (byn vid nationalparkens södra entré) checkar jag in på det billiga och populära Liana Guest House. Det är ett enkelt men vanskött ställe med fin uttsikt över djungeln och den lilla floden.

Alternativa vägar och röd sötsliskig saft

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Tue, 16 Jun 2009 08:07:00 +0000

Regnskog på väg till sågverket.

2009-06-03

Det är fuktigt i tältet på morgonen och fortfarande varmt vid soluppgången. Kommer iväg vid niotiden efter en enkel frukost bestående av kallt pulverkaffe, vatten och vitt bröd med jordnötssmör. Vid avfarten mot Karak svänger jag in på en liten väg som är skyltad som ett alternativ till motorvägen för trafik mot Kuantan - den största staden på ostkusten. Jag äter en brunch (nudlar, milo och roti canai) vid första bästa vägkrog, och försöker lista ut om vägskyltarna verkligen stämmer. Ägaren tycker att jag ska ta den andra vägen via Karak centrum, men säger att det är möjligt att cykla även denna krokiga väg. Det visar sig senare bli en omväg, men jag slipper i alla fall motorvägen och nästan all trafik. Vägen går mot byn Kampung Sertik och vidare mot Raub, dvs helt fel riktning för att komma till nationalparken. Efter någon mil är det dock skyltat Kuantan till höger så allt verkar ordna sig. Vid Lancang är jag och vägen tillbaka vid motorvägen igen, men jag ser inte längre hur jag ska cykla för att slippa motorvägen. Det finns ingen att fråga så jag passerar runt betalstationen och börjar trampa. Det visar sig vara långt till nästa avfart, och väldigt varmt i den gassande solen. När jag tar en paus kommer en av vägbolagets servicebilar och stannar till. Mannen i bilen undrar vad jag gör där och vart jag ska. Han förklarar att jag kommer fram till vägen mot nationalparken Taman Negara och Jerantut tio kilometer längre fram, men han påpekar också att jag egentligen inte får cykla på motorvägen. Jag lovar att svänga av vägen så fort jag kan och cyklar vidare till avfarten.

Ut ur storstan på cykel

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Fri, 12 Jun 2009 14:18:00 +0000

Skyddad djungel vid gamla Genting-vägen.

2009-06-02

Jag börjar cykla ut ur huvudstaden vid ettiden på eftermiddagen. Efter lite missförstånd hittar jag den gamla vägen till Genting Highlands. Den heter Jalan Gombak inne i Kuala Lumpur. Längre upp slingrar sig vägen upp genom djungeln. Det verkar vara en skyddad skog. Det regnar en stund och vädret är behagligt. Det finns apor längs vägen, men de är ganska skygga. Vid passet ligger ett stort komplex med resturanger, butiker och bensinmack. McDonald's finns också här. Jag äter nasi goreng och cyklar vidare nedför den gamla landsvägen och stannar för ett dopp vid en varm källa. Både bilister och lastbilschaufförer stannar till och badar eller tvättar sig i det 40-gradiga vatttnet. Det blir mörkt medan jag badar. Jag stannar längre ned, vid ett vägskäl, och funderar på vilken väg jag ska ta och var jag skall sova. Jag väljer bort staden Bentung och cyklar istället upp på motorvägen mot Kuantan och Karak. Vid niotiden slår jag upp tältet vid ett regnskydd för motorcyklister.

Price guide: Kuala Lumpur

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Sat, 16 May 2009 09:07:00 +0000

Below are some prices that budget travellers might be interesting for budget travellers (1 Rm = 0,28 USD = 0,19 GBP, at the time of writing):

Dorm bed in guesthouse: 10-20 Rm
Single room (with fan): 20- Rm
Double room (with fan): from 25 Rm
Nasi Lemak (coconut milk rice with egg, dried anchovis, peanuts and chili sauce - often served wrapped in a banana leaf or waxed paper: 1-2 Rm
Three course dinner with non-alcoholic drink: from 7 Rm
Large beer (600 ml) at a resturant or bar: 10-20 Rm
Glass of ice water: 0,30 Rm
Ice Milo (Milk choclate drink): 1,50-2 Rm
Roti Canai (Indian pancake with curry sauce): 0,80-1,2 Rm
Local city train ride (the monorail et al): 1-3 Rm
Bottled mineral water (1,5 l): 1-2 Rm
Bottled mineral water (0,5 l): 0,6-2 Rm
Bananas: 1-3 Rm/kg
Ice cream (small cup): 1-2 Rm

Hibiscus and Orchid Garden: 0 Rm (1 Rm on national holidays and sundays)

Butterfly Park: 18 Rm (plus small camera fee)

KL Bird Park (Largest aviary in the world): 38 Rm (no extra fee for cameras).

KL Tower: 38 Rm

Petronas Twin Towers (44th floor and bridge): Free (but you need to get a ticket and watch a movie about the Petronas Oil Company and the buildings)

Prisguide: Kuala Lumpur

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Sat, 16 May 2009 04:17:00 +0000

Här kommer några exempel på priser som budgetresenärer kan vara intresserade av (priserna är ungefärliga och priserna kronor är avrundade):

Boende i sovsal (dorm): 10-20 Rm (23-46 kr)
Enkelrum (med fläkt): 20- Rm (från 44 kr)
Dubbelrum (med fläkt): 25- Rm (från 55 kr)
Dubbelrum (med luftkonditionering): 35- (från 77 kr)
Nasi Lemak (kokosmjölksris med ägg, torkad ansjovis, jordnötter och chilisås - ofta serverat i knyte av bananblad eller vaxat papper): 1-2 Rm (2-4,50 kr)
Trerätters middag med alkoholfri dryck: 7- Rm (från 15 kr)
Stor öl (600 ml) på uteservering: 10-20 Rm (23-45 kr)
Isvatten: 0,30 Rm (65 öre)
Mjölkchoklad med is (Ice Milo): 1,50-2 Rm (3,50-6,50 kr)
Roti Canai (stekt indisk "pannkaka" med currysås): 0,80-1,2 Rm (2-2,5 kr)
Biljett på något av lokaltågen i staden (inklusive monorail): 1-3 Rm (2-6,5 kr)
Mineralvatten på flaska (1,5 l): 1-2 Rm (2-4,50 kr)
Mineralvatten på flaska (0,5 l): 0,6-2 Rm (1,5-4,50 kr)
Bananer: 1-3 Rm/kg (2-7 kr/kg)
Glass (liten bägare): 1-2 Rm (2-4,50 kr)
Big Mac & Co (luncherbjudande): 6 Rm (13,5 kr)

Biljett till Hibiscus and Orchid Garden: 0 Rm (1 Rm på nationellla högtider och söndagar)

Biljett till Butterfly Park: 18 Rm (plus 1 Rm för att ha med sig stillbildskamera)

Biljett till KL Bird Park: 38 Rm (inga extra avgifter för kamera).

Biljett till KL Tower: 38 Rm

Biljett till bron mellan Petronas Twin Towers (44:e våningen): Gratis (men man måste se en sju minuter lång reklamfilm om Petronas - det nationella oljebolaget som gett namn till byggnaderna.

Photo of the day: Flower in pond

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Fri, 15 May 2009 09:27:00 +0000

Flower (which one?) in a pond at KL Hibiscus and Orchid Garden, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

Photo of the day: City Traffic

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Wed, 13 May 2009 13:21:00 +0000

Motorbike on street in Kuala Lumpur.

Photo of the day: Ostrich

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Thu, 07 May 2009 07:59:00 +0000

Ostrich at KL Bird Park, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

Photo of the day: Flamingo

noreply@blogger.com (Tallabomba) — Wed, 06 May 2009 13:38:00 +0000

Flamingo greets the sun.