In case you mistook this week's issue of NOW for a genteel, paper version of The Wire, don't be alarmed. It's really just about celebrating the great things on either side of good ol' Yonge Street. In the food section, Steven Davey puts many miles on his bike, zipping back and forth to compare pubs, burgers, Italian restaurants and even the two Chinatowns. Something for everyone, regardless of what side of the line you live on. [NOW]

Ooh, ooh... sugaring off party - this Sunday at Dufferin Grove Park. [Not Far From the Tree]

Stylish but comfortable Italian food might just be the ticket to keeping Yorkville happy. Turns out Ciao is less about the nabe and more about the grub. [Eye]

Not sure what new wines are worth your dosh? Check out these tasting notes of some recent releases. [Gothic Epicures VinCuisine]

People will do anything for good sushi - including creating zombie fish. [Homemakers.com: Dana McCauley's Blog]

A recap of the Bring Food Home conference. [Sustain Ontario]

If you've not been following the "bake-sale" issue in New York, this post might not make sense - in a nutshell, NYC is banning school groups trying to raise money for trips and such from selling homemade "bakesale" type goods in an effort to control calories, trans-fats, sodium etc. What kids are allowed to sell is prepared foods such as Doritos and PopTarts, in calorie-restricted serving sizes. Rightfully so, a lot of people are confused as to how Doritos in any size bag trumps a homemade oatmeal cookie. Joel weighs in. [Well Preserved]

Look out Oz, Böhmer is open. [Compendium Daily]

And in Food For Thought - canning and preserving - the domain of the hipster, why bunnies are cute but cows are tasty, and would you rather diet and exercise or have a gastric bypass? [Save Your Fork]

It's no secret - well, maybe it is - that those of us in the SOLE (sustainable/seasonal, organic, local, ethical) food scene live in a bit of a bubble. We tend to think of all food as "real" food, made from fresh ingredients, and we tend to frequent restaurants with the same philosophy. But the majority of food service businesses still don't operate this way. And when I say "food service" I don't just mean high end restaurants serving artisanal food; food service includes everything from hospitals, hotels, catering companies, school and office cafeterias, sandwich trucks and yes, restaurants, but of all sizes and styles, from little neighbourhood coffee houses to family-style chains and everything in between.

While the philosophy of these establishments may be as different as night and day, they all share some common ground - there are some things they all need to run a successful business: pots and pans, salt and pepper, plates, napkins, dishwashers...

The annual Canadian Food and Restaurant Association trade show is the place where all of these things come together. Where food service operators can ogle shiny new Hobart mixers, pick out new menu covers, or find a supplier of eco-friendly take-away containers. It's also where companies of processed foods try to sell their products to restaurateurs. Some of these products are a given; from ingredients like spices to things like coffee, tea and condiments. There's also the category of products that many restaurants could potentially make in-house but often choose to bring in. Bread is a massive category at the CFRA show, and bakeries are here with huge displays and samples to entice restaurant owners to serve their products.

After bread, cakes and pastries are probably the most prominent category of items brought in to restaurants. In both catering operations and many restaurants, believe it or not, desserts are often not made in house, and many bakeries here offer gorgeous displays of treats at wholesale prices.

There is some representation of fresh fruit and vegetables - companies like 100km Foods Inc. were on hand, and local food artisans such as Alba Lisa and Chef Jono were part of the Toronto Food Business Incubator section. But big food is also prevalent here. At the McCain booth, we sampled something called an "early riser"; a McNugget-looking thing made from potato, egg, cheese, pepper and bacon and coated in a corn-flake based crust. It was horrifying. Likewise the pre-made omelettes we came across. And let's not forget the plethora of frozen fries, chicken wings and other pub grub that diners generally expect is made fresh... but maybe isn't.

The event isn't just about the trade show floor, however - there are cooking demos featuring well-known chefs such as Lynn Crawford, Susur Lee and Donna Dooher, and throughout the three days of the show, seminars are offered on everything from wine glass comparisons to how to use social media.

But while the CFRA show is always a fun and informative time, it's also kind of sobering - there is an awful lot of crap food out there. And despite the efforts many of us make to support local farmers, to eat seasonal and organic products, or to just support local restaurants or local food artisans, someone, somewhere, is eating all that processed stuff.

Watermelon head guy - probably the most photographed person at the whole event.

Gorgeous tins of tea from The Tea Emporium.

The Beemster blue cow. Just because I think it's cool.

This is kind of a fun idea - from Cedar Bay Grilling Company in Nova Scotia; salmon and shrimp, vac-packed with a cedar plank for grilling.

Sad little pizza mascot - doesn't he look like he needs a hug?

The "display only" sign is the most prominent message at the CFRA show. Because there are lots of samples, and people will eat anything without even asking first. This display of pastries is from Gastronomia in Montreal - and they are shipped to restaurants frozen.

I didn't get a picture of the breakfast nugget thing - but here is a tray of pre-made omlettes. Be very afraid.

There are lots of cool new finds at events like this too, though - and these little single-serving packages of olive oil are a great idea.

The display from Ponderosa Mushrooms in British Columbia, featuring fiddleheads from California.

One of many elaborate bread displays, this one from Fred's Bread.

Pate, fruit preserve and a pippette of port top these funky crackers from Pidy, a French company that specializes in various pre-made pastry shells.

This was my favourite find of the day - not yet available in stores, Ontario crème fraiche from Thornloe Cheese. For everyone who has ever written to us asking where to find crème fraiche (and there are a good number of you out there)... soon, my lovelies.

One of our few encounters with fresh vegetables (seriously, the only raw thing I ate all day was a carrot stick that came with some dubious dip from Nestlé), the gorgeous and really delicious soups from Alba Lisa.

And last but not least, a selection of Ontario cheese.

In a press release, co-owner Carl Korte states: "We’re delighted Scaramouche will be staying in its current location so we can continue to provide our many loyal clients and guests with the high level of cuisine and trusted service that’s been recognized for years. Extending our lease also means we can happily reinvest in our kitchen and dining room to maintain our position as one of Toronto’s top restaurants with the best view in town."

Partner and executive chef Keith Froggett adds: "Friends and clients have been asking us where Scaramouche will move so I’m pleased to finally report that we’re staying where we are. This is a great way for Scaramouche to celebrate its thirtieth anniversary and we look forward to our next decade of operating a successful and vibrant restaurant."

Thursday Night Tasting Series: Cheezy Does It!
Vineyards Estate Wines Queens Quay, 228 Queens Quay West
7:00 PM to 8:30 PM
$8 - call 416.598.8880 to reserve
One of our ongoing challenges is to create fresh, intriguing and truly educational tasting ideas. In the past, we have striven to showcase the very best wines and the matches made in heaven. As a result of this, our sommelier and staff have received accolades and awards from writers and gastrophiles all over the world! What could possibly be next when you have covered everything? This week, we're "going rogue" and turning formal wine tasting upside down! It's the "ANTI-CHEESE TASTING EVENT"! What wines pair with processed cheese foods like Velveeta, Kraft Singles and Cheez Whiz? What wines go with those little triangular cheeses wrapped in silver foil? It's Babybel Heaven (and Hell)! It's cheap and cheerful! Every wine tasted will be under $10.00 (a litre). Quelle Fromage!
[more info]

Denison's Brewing Feature
barVolo, 587 Yonge Street
6:00 PM to 8:00 PM
$6 for Denison's tasting flight - other food and drink available
barVolo will be featuring three beers on draught from the talented brew master Michael Hancock of Denison's Brewing: Denison's Weissbier, Denison's Dunkel and a brewery blend of the two beers, Denison's Spezial Weissbier Dunkel. Michael Hancock will be present to start the feature, and a sample trio will be offered featuring 5 oz. tasters of all three beers for $6.00.
[more info]

Beer School for Cheese Fans: St. Patty's Day
Leslieville Cheese Market East, 891 Queen Street East
two tastings: 7:00 PM and 8:30 PM
$30 - call 416-465-7143 to reserve
Brewmaster Sam Corbeil trained as a Brewmaster in Germany. His knowledge of the world of beer is formidable. Sam is no slouch when it comes to cheese. He will be pairing five beers with five cheeses, and surely heightening our appreciation of both.
[more info]

Pairing Port and Cheese
Spence Gallery, 600 Markham Street
6:30 PM
ticket info t.b.a.
A classic pairing, Port is beautifully complemented by cheese. The South African Wine Society has selected six elegant ports and will have a cheese that complements each of them. Come and find out which pairs best - the paring potentials are endless, but you will have your favourites.
[more info]

DINNERS

Rosewood Estates Winemaker's Dinner
Globe Bistro, 124 Danforth Avenue
$99 (plus taxes and gratuities) - email info@globebistro.com or call 416-466-2000 to reserve
In conjunction with International Women's Day, Globe Bistro pleased to present a Winemaker's Dinner featuring award-winning winemaker Natalie Spytkowsky from Rosewood Estates Winery. Wines to served include 2008 Semillon, 2008 Sussreserve Riesling, 2008 Pinot Noir and the yet to be released 2008 Merlot. There will also be sampling a wide array of Rosewood meads.
[more info]

Stop For Food
various restaurants
various times
$35 & $50 prix fixe menus
Dozens of Toronto’s finest restaurants unite once again for Stop for Food, a culinary celebration that raises funds for The Stop Community Food Centre, a unique anti-poverty organization in the city’s west end. Throughout the month of March, each participating restaurant will offer a special prix fixe menu priced at either $35 or $50 per person, with $5 or $10 respectively per meal being donated directly to The Stop. These menus will be prepared in each restaurant’s distinctive style, using exclusively Ontario-grown ingredients, further strengthening the bonds between local farmers and artisanal producers, restaurants and the community. (Continues to March 31st.)
[more info]

MARKETS

Apple Tree Market
behind North Toronto Memorial Community Centre, 200 Eglinton Avenue West
3:00 PM to 7:00 PM

Dufferin Grove Organic Farmers Market
Dufferin Grove Park, 875 Dufferin Street
3:00 PM to 7:00 PM

For a comprehensive list of upcoming events in and around Toronto, check out our Events page.

You know, I'm sure this new variety of apple is probably really tasty, but the marketing machine behind promoting it is pretty obnoxious. As this piece points out, getting people to try and like a new variety when they're mostly used to red, yellow and green can be a crapshoot, but seriously, PR people - sometimes less is more. Twitter accounts and Facebook pages for an apple?? There is such a thing as overexposure and the Red Prince apple has jumped the shark in my eyes. [Globe and Mail]

So if you support Canada's seal hunt, how willing are you to stand behind it? A member of Nunavut's legislative assembly is proposing a retaliatory ban on alcohol from the EU - so no Guinness, no French wine, no Belgian beer for the people of that territory. But imagine if the federal government had the balls to take the same stand... sure, we'd all be put out a little bit, but imagine the effect it would have on the European economy. [National Post]

I'm currently reading a book about food in history and it turns out that prepared foods and takeaways existed as far back as Egyptian times, but if this scares the beejeezus out of you, then ditching processed foods and cooking everything at home from scratch might be worth a try. [Toronto Star] [Globe and Mail]

As Canadian as butter tarts... waitaminute - what's that (eugh!!!) corn syrup doing in there? (Seriously, all 4 recipes in this piece contain corn syrup - wtf??? That's pecan pie filling, people!) [Toronto Sun]

I wondered why Johnny Depp's Mad Hatter was staring at me from a Tetley's tin at the grocery store the other day - turns out I should have snapped up all the stock - collectors are going crazy on eBay for the whole Alice in Wonderland-themed series. [National Post]

Soup Sisters brings together women to help other women, over a bowl of soup. [Toronto Star]

Oh no, this is just going to encourage more of those girlie wines with dresses and shoes on the labels, isn't it? - a study is showing a correlation between alcohol consumption and weight maintenance - that is, women who drank a small amount on a daily basis gained less weight over 13 years than their tee-totalling counterparts. [Globe and Mail]

Loblaw's is set to add rooftop solar panels to many of its Ontario stores. [Globe and Mail]

We tend to think of cities like London as being more expensive to live in than here in Toronto. Maybe not. If you're working on the "buck is a buck is a pound" theory, then we come out ahead, but a direct exchange in current funds makes things like milk, steaks and sandwiches far pricier than across the pond. [National Post: Posted Toronto]

And in Food For Thought - pop-up restaurants, tooth decay from sports drinks, and chefs that smoke. [Save Your Fork]

It’s a wintry Friday morning in Toronto. The driving snow snarls traffic along the morning commute and forces pedestrians to walk with their heads down, faces buried in the collars of their coats. But the frightful weather is no match for chef Edward Levesque, who is anticipating this year’s growing season.

“My seed packets arrived last week,” he says. “The garden — it’s a year-long process.”

The organic bounty from both Levesque’s garden and his partner’s 52-acre farm in Dunville, Ontario, inspire the menu at Edward Levesque’s Kitchen (dubbed “ELK” by locals), the Leslieville restaurant Levesque opened on Queen Street East in 2002. Vegetables, greens and herbs from the property join other locally sourced and traditionally farmed ingredients to create a seasonally focused dining experience. And even though ELK took a “locavore” approach to food before it became a mainstream trend, don’t expect to find that term on display.

“Right from the start the cooking at the restaurant was seasonal and organic,” Levesque explains, “but it seems unnecessary to say so on the menu. You can taste the difference in good-quality ingredients. When you’re eating root vegetables pulled from the soil you can feel the change in your body, in your cells, all the way up to your brain.”

Back in 1992, however, Levesque was a recent graduate of the George Brown Culinary Arts program and ELK couldn’t have even been a gleam in his eye as he tore open bags of romaine lettuce for salads that would feed the masses at his first job at the Sheraton Hotel in downtown Toronto. “I moved up to deep-frying hors d’oeuvres for executives,” he quips before talking about how much there is to be learned from working the many stations in a large hotel kitchen.

Levesque recalls some other rite-of-passage kitchen experiences like being asked to prep a bushel of onions and peel a sack of fresh Romano beans (he was too slow on the latter task — “Knife skills are where it’s at,” he says by way of advice to aspiring chefs) that paved the way to a four-year stay at Prego Della Piazza, a Yorkville fine-dining institution. There he worked with Massimo Capra, now of Mistura and Food Network Canada fame, whom he credits with exposing him to authentic Italian cooking. Levesque’s c.v. also boasts a stint at French bistro Arlequin, another Yorkville hotspot that closed in 2007.

When opportunity struck, then, Levesque was well prepared to run his own kitchen. He had been menu-testing for another chef and noticed the vacancy at 1290 Queen Street East while walking by one day. He got investors together and a mere six weeks later, Edward Levesque’s Kitchen was open for business.  “I jumped right into the deep end,” he says, “and lost ten pounds biking all over the city applying for licenses.”

Back in 2002 Leslieville was just on the cusp of the renaissance that has made it the popular neighbourhood it is today, and ELK was certainly one of the restaurants that sparked the area’s gastronomic renewal. As one of the first new kids on the block, Levesque built the establishment’s success one lunch, dinner and brunch service at a time (and the spot happens to serve a wildly popular brunch). Eight years later, he still goes in to work every day, stopping at local bakery Upper Crust for his usual morning bagel, but credits the talent of his current lineup of cooks for the several weeks’ vacation he plans to take this year.

New York City is one of Levesque’s preferred destinations; at the moment he finds it a more fertile ground than Toronto for culinary inspiration (incidentally, ELK’s famous sandwich board advertising “Steak, Chickpeas, Alcohol” is a play on the “Steak, Lobster, Chickpeas” marquee at NYC’s Max’s Kansas City, a restaurant and nightclub frequented by musicians, artists, and politicians in the 1960s and 1970s). His two principal complaints about current Toronto dining are the skewed relationship between food and price — he finds that in many cases the quality of the food is deteriorating while the price is escalating — and chefs’ tendency to oversalt.

“You have to understand flavours and how they mix,” Levesque insists. “You have to know what your finished dish is going to taste like and then taste your way through cooking it.”

As for the flavours at ELK, they tend to be simple and clear — “Lemons make lemonade,” Levesque says — but also inventive. As a result, it is not unusual to find dishes like tandoor-style salmon and osso bucco next to one another on the menu, which is printed often to capture seasonal shifts. Don’t forget the chutneys and marmalades Levesque makes when various fruits hit their peak of ripeness, as well as the pickled root vegetables he puts up at the end of the summer and the plethora of items the restaurant serves made with the herbs that flourish in Levesque’s garden, including a fragrant mint tea made from a bouquet of fresh sprigs steeped with a thin slice of lemon.

Levesque is tight-lipped about what the future holds, though he does concede that there is a plan in the works, to be revealed early next year. Until then Toronto diners will continue to enjoy the ELK dishes that take shape during walks through his garden listening to the frogs, cold beer in one hand and a cigarette in the other. It’s not a bad way to draw inspiration.

“There’s nothing like it,” says Levesque.

Portrait of Edward Levesque © Jennifer Burrell.

Jodi Lewchuk is an editor by profession and a cook and writer by passion. She also writes about and photographs food for her personal blog, Cursive Mechanics.

Pants Off for Prostate Cancer
Trevor Kitchen & Wine Bar, 38 Wellington Street East
6:00 PM
various ticket prices - see website for details
Pants Off for Prostate Cancer is a mandatory "pants off" event, putting the focus on the "below the belt" nature of prostate cancer. Guests will be required to check their pants at our "pant check" and celebrate the evening enjoying the reckless abandon of "pantlessness". The event will feature mouth-watering appetizers and bar food provided by Trevor Kitchen & Bar, reasonably-priced wine, beer and cocktails, prizes for best and most outrageous boxers (both men and women), a door draw for great prizes, and a silent auction featuring fabulous merchandise, event tickets and gift certificates.
[more info]

DINNERS

Dining Fundraiser for Haiti Relief
Crush Wine Bar, 455 King Street West
various seating times
regular menu available
In response to the devastation caused by the recent earthquake in Haiti, Vintage Hotels is determined to make a difference in the rebuilding of the country. The Niagara-on-the-Lake based hotel company will hold fundraising event in all 5 of its restaurants across Niagara-on-the-Lake, Caledon and Toronto, donating 100% of proceeds for the evening to Habitat for Humanity Canada where the funds will be allocated to relief efforts in Haiti.
[more info]

Rising Star Dinner Series with Chef Trish Donnelly
The Chefs' House, 215 King Street East
6:30 PM
$100 (food, wine, taxes & tip included) - call 416-415-2260 to reserve
Discover Rising Stars in the culinary and hospitality industry as you enjoy an exceptional meal prepared before your eyes. Each month The Chefs' House spotlights the emerging talent of one young Canadian chef who will introduce and serve you a multi-course menu of their own creation. This month's chef is Trish Donnelly from Oyster Boy.
[more info]

Stop For Food
various restaurants
various times
$35 & $50 prix fixe menus
Dozens of Toronto’s finest restaurants unite once again for Stop for Food, a culinary celebration that raises funds for The Stop Community Food Centre, a unique anti-poverty organization in the city’s west end. Throughout the month of March, each participating restaurant will offer a special prix fixe menu priced at either $35 or $50 per person, with $5 or $10 respectively per meal being donated directly to The Stop. These menus will be prepared in each restaurant’s distinctive style, using exclusively Ontario-grown ingredients, further strengthening the bonds between local farmers and artisanal producers, restaurants and the community. (Continues to March 31st.)
[more info]

MARKETS

University of Toronto Farmers Market
University College, 15 Kings College Circle
2:30 PM to 5:30 PM

For a comprehensive list of upcoming events in and around Toronto, check out our Events page.

There could be some in your cupboard right now - the recall of processed foods made with tainted hydrolyzed vegetable protein could become the largest recall in history. With more products being added each day, it's a safe bet that this is going to affect everyone who buys packaged food in some way. [National Post] [Toronto Star]

Note to husband - my birthday is in 6 months.  Which gives you until September to make arrangements to ensure that this cake is the one I blow the candles out on. [SweetThings]

The luncheon tomorrow on Parliament Hill featuring seal meat turned out to be so popular that it sold out. There's no convincing the Europeans, and animal rights groups will continue to "...seperate [sic] kids from their lunch money and grannies from their pension checks," but maybe they'll convince Canadians to try the stuff. [Globe and Mail]

Get tapping - these warm days and cold nights are perfect maple syrup weather, and having convinced the City that they're not tree-destroyers, the maple syrup program at Not Far From the Tree is officially underway. [Not Far From the Tree]

If you can make it there, you'll make it anywhere... Susur Lee looks back on a hard year in New York and explains why Torontonians are more adventurous when it comes to food than New Yorkers. [Toronto Sun]

Did you know that Canada has its own organic certification? We do. But you'd be hard-pressed to find any products sporting the logo. [Torontoist]

Does making lunch for your husband make you any less of a feminist? Or does it just make you a caring, supportive spouse? [Globe and Mail]

The saying "breast is best" is intended for babies, but apparently cheese made from human breast milk is pretty tasty. [Toronto Star]

Kosher sushi? Yeah, but don't expect it to knock your socks off. [Toronto Sushi]

And in Food For Thought - the car-puccino, officially designated Yorkshire puddings, and - if you're not marketing your junk food to kids, how come they can recognize your logos? [Save Your Fork]

As the number of Toronto establishments catering to discerning beer drinkers has increased substantially over the past several years, each of them has done their best to come up with concepts to differentiate themselves from the competition. From beer dinners and tasting events to extensive bottle lists and constantly changing draught line-ups, each place has carved out their niche in the scene, with the result being a multitude of top-notch options for the city’s beer lovers.

At Bier Markt – both the original Esplanade location, and the more recently opened spot on King West – they’ve taken a two-pronged approach to keeping things fresh in an effort to keep the crowds coming. On the food front, they present a series of special “Feastivül” menus throughout the year (including a recent fondue-themed menu), and on the beer side, they always have at least one tap line dedicated to an exclusive offering, generally European brews that have rarely, if ever, been available in Canada before.

The newest Feastivül on the Bier Markt calendar kicked off just last week, and it’s themed to pair up with their latest exclusive draught beer, Spaten München Lager from Munich. Dubbed Marchtoberfest, the promotion features an array of German-inspired dishes that are well-matched by Spaten and other German beers available on tap at the Markts.

At a preview lunch last week, Executive Chef Michael Cipollo presented some key dishes from the Marchtoberfest menu. After we arrived to a snack of freshly baked soft pretzels with mustard, the meal proper got underway with a German play on a sharable charcuterie platter featuring savoury Thuringer bratwurst, juicy carved brisket, and unctuous seared pork belly along with beer sauerkraut and warm potato salad. (The bratwurst also appears on a wurst plate for two with several other sausages and accompaniments, and the brisket can be ordered as a grilled sandwich with Emmental, sauerkraut and dressing on rye.)

For the main course, Cipollo served a panko-breaded veal schnitzel that he admitted was smaller than the massive plate-fillers that are common at Oktoberfest, but even the more reasonable portion was well-received by all. I’ll confess that due to the onset of a carb overload, I left the mountain of buttery Yukon Gold mash that the schnitzel was perched atop partly unfinished. But I had no problem finishing the tender veal, the tangy tomato jam topping, or the side of grilled asparagus which was surprisingly vibrant and fresh tasting for an out-of-season veg.

After the delicious but daunting onslaught of meat and potatoes that the app and main presented, dessert was a questionable proposition, but Chef managed to convince us with his unique spin on Apfelkuchen, a traditional German apple cake. Perhaps equally inspired by that classic Canadian snack food, the Timbit, the "Basket Of Apfelkuchen" is a heaping serving of mini-fritters made with Granny Smith apples and rolled in cinnamon sugar. While intended to be shared, each diner at the lunch was given a full serving, along with an offer of a take-home container for the leftovers which most of us took advantage of.

Accompanying all of the courses was Spaten München Lager, a crisp golden beer from one of Germany’s most historic breweries. As explained to the group by beer expert Roger Mittag, Munich’s Spaten brewery – officially known as Spaten-Franziskaner-Bräu GmbH – has roots extending back to 1397, although its heyday was in the late 1800s when it was the largest brewery in the city.

Now part of AB InBev, the same massive multi-national that owns Labatt, Spaten produces a number of beers in various traditional German styles, but its biggest claim to fame – aside from being one of the six official breweries of Oktoberfest – is probably the creation of the beer style Helles (German for “light coloured” or “pale”) in 1894. It’s one of several golden lager styles that were born during the latter part of the 19th century in the wake of the massive popularity of the original golden lager, Pilsner, and it’s a style that Spaten continues to brew today as München Lager.

As with all Helles beers, München Lager has some obvious similarities to a proper Pilsner, most notably in the bright golden colour, snow white head, and the malt profile which is quite bread-like along with hints of cereal grain. Where the styles diverge is in the hops: while Pilsners traditionally use Saaz hops which give the beer a spicy and peppery character, München Lager is made with Hallertau hops, a strain that provides a more herbal and grassy quality along with a whisper of lemon zest. Brought together, these elements produce an enjoyable and immensely drinkable lager that was not only a great match for the meal, but is also a fine beer all on its own.

The Marchtoberfest Feastivül continues at both Bier Markt locations until April 11th. The public release of Spaten München Lager has been delayed slightly due to LCBO red tape, but it should be on tap in the next week or so, and will remain available through to the Bier Markt Oktoberfest celebrations in the fall.

AWS Best of the Cellar Walkabout
University of Toronto Faculty Club, 41 Wilcocks Street
6:30 PM to 8:30 PM
$58 for members - $68 for guests
The Australian Wine Society presents their second "Best of the Cellar" Walkabout, featuring some of the finest wines Australia produces for you to sample. The Faculty Club will provide a table of fine finger foods so you don’t go hungry.
[more info]

A Taste of Québec Tasting Series: The Dirt on Québec Cheeses
A Taste of Québec, The Distillery District, Building 32, 55 Mill Street
7:30 PM to 9:00 PM
$30 - call 416.364.5020 to reserve
Hear and taste how Québec’s terroir, its landscape, people, animals and
traditions impart uniqueness to its cheeses, while sipping terroir wines
from small batch quality Ontario wineries.
[more info]

CFRA Show 2010
Direct Energy Centre, Exhibition Place
10:00 AM to 6:00 PM on Sunday & Monday - 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM on Tuesday
$20 advance via link below - $30 at the door - admission limited to trade and media only
The CRFA Show, presented by the Canadian Restaurant and Foodservices Association, is the leading food and beverage industry event providing a venue for buyers and sellers of industry products. (Final day.)
[more info]

DINNERS

Perfect Paella Pairing VQA Challenge
Cava, 1560 Yonge Street
6:30 PM
$80 (taxes and gratuities included) - call 416-979-9918 to reserve
Six Niagara winemakers - Chateau des Charmes, Henry of Pelham, Norman Hardie Winery, Southbrook Vineyards, Stratus Vineyards, Thirteenth Street Winery - pick their best to pair with Cava's mid-winter Paella of Muscovy Duck, Chorizo and Snails. Wineries will be on-site to discuss and defend their choices for the People's Choice Award.
[more info]

Stop For Food
various restaurants
various times
$35 & $50 prix fixe menus
Dozens of Toronto’s finest restaurants unite once again for Stop for Food, a culinary celebration that raises funds for The Stop Community Food Centre, a unique anti-poverty organization in the city’s west end. Throughout the month of March, each participating restaurant will offer a special prix fixe menu priced at either $35 or $50 per person, with $5 or $10 respectively per meal being donated directly to The Stop. These menus will be prepared in each restaurant’s distinctive style, using exclusively Ontario-grown ingredients, further strengthening the bonds between local farmers and artisanal producers, restaurants and the community. (Continues to March 31st.)
[more info]

MARKETS

The Stop's Good Food Market
Davenport-Perth Neighbourhood Centre, 1900 Davenport Road
4:30 PM to 6:30 PM

For a comprehensive list of upcoming events in and around Toronto, check out our Events page.

When it comes to sushi, you get what you pay for. Better to have really good sushi once a year than fish of dubious quality once a month. [Inside Toronto: Menumental]

I know this probably makes me a bad guy, but I find it a bit difficult to muster up sympathy for university students who don't get enough from OSAP to cover their food costs. Dudes... get a summer job. Or become a plumber or a hairdresser instead. [Toronto Star]

Turns out, there's some good eating in midtown. [The Hungry Novelist]

It's maple syrup season - here are some suggestions on where to check it out. [Gremolata]

Faster than a speeding food writer - Lee opened its doors for lunch on March 1st and not even a week later, Toronto Life has a review. [Toronto Life: Daily Dish]

March is the toughest month of the year for eating local, seasonal food, even when you're planned ahead and done some preserving. [Well Preserved]

One of the risks of making coffee when you're half asleep is that you might just grab something off the spice rack that isn't cinnamon to sprinkle on top. [Blog From Our Kitchen]

And in Food For Thought - getting stuck next to the loud table when you're trying to have a quiet dinner, how to get out of attending Tupperware parties, and a doggie biscotti vending machine. [Save Your Fork]

Pinot Noir has been called "the heartbreak grape", “a minx of a vine… an exasperating variety”, and "sex in a glass". It's a difficult grape to grow and a difficult grape to make wine with but when everything goes well, the resulting wine is worth the trouble. The problem is, usually, everything doesn't go well. Like most grapes, Pinot Noir doesn't do well in summers that are too cold. Unlike most grapes, Pinot Noir also doesn't produce a good crop when it is too warm, or too dry, or too wet, or if there is an early spring, or a late spring.

The French wine region of Burgundy is the homeland of Pinot Noir and one of the few places on earth where some vineyards produce an outstanding Pinot Noir most years. In a region that is 3 kilometres wide and 50 kilometres long called the Côte d'Or or "Slope of Gold", Pinot Noir is crafted by a few into a silky smooth, fruity, beautifully balanced red Burgundy that wine lovers prize above all others. The Côte runs north and south and on the eastern slopes facing the morning sun, the Pinot Noir grows well. The flow of air down the slope helps to control the various molds that plague Pinot Noir. The warm days and cool nights are perfect for ripening the grapes and the warm, well drained soils keep the roots warm at night.

However, once you have the grapes, your problems are not over. Due to the grapes’ thin skins, it is difficult to get much colour or tannin into the wine. The fermentation of Pinot Noir can be difficult to control as they tend to get really hot and then the flavours and aromas boil off.

If all these problems aren’t enough, Pinot Noir is also genetically unstable. It mutates and sometimes produces grapes that aren’t really similar to Pinot Noir. This is why Pinot Noir is the parent vine for Pinot Gris aka Pinot Grigio and Pinot Blanc. Winegrowers noticed that some Pinot Noir vines were producing lighter coloured grapes and use those vines for cuttings to produce more vines. Eventually, they produced vines that were more or less stable and produced white wines that have little in common with Pinot Noir.

Of course, wine makers around the world are attempting to produce good Pinot Noir with various levels of success. In Ontario, wineries in the Niagara Peninsula and Prince Edward County are working on Pinot Noir; Le Clos Jordanne is thought by many to be the leader in Ontario right now, although there are many wineries producing good Pinots.

In the US, the Sonoma Coast in California and the especially Willamette Valley in Oregon are focusing on Pinot Noir. Having just spent a few days in Oregon, I can say that they are succeeding with producing a very classical styled Pinot Noir that is a medium red and exhibits aromas of red fruit, earth and cloves with flavours of raspberry, strawberry and vanilla with well balanced fruit, alcohol and tannins.

New Zealand is also producing some outstanding Pinot Noirs and Germany, possibly due to global warming, is producing better Pinot Noirs every year.

There is a saying that a good bottle of Burgundy costs $500. You have to drink 9 disappointing bottles at $50 each before you get to the 10th bottle which is so remarkable that you forget the other 9. That might have been true in the past but I am finding that purchasing Pinots in the $18 and higher range, I am rarely disappointed.

Lailey Pinot Noir 2007 VQA (LCBO # 591404 - $24.95) The nose is dominated by oak, dark cherry and earthy aromas. The dark fruit flavours last through the long finish which shows a little cold coffee. The firm tannins are still a little forward, suggesting that this wine could be aged for 3 or 4 years.

Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve 2007 VQA – (LCBO# 33894 - $25) This dark cherry red wine has aromas of dark plum, cedar and leather and flavours of cherry cola, raspberry with a nice hint of vanilla and dark cherry on the long finish. The fine tannins are slightly drying at the end and indicate that this wine could age 4 to 6 years. The alcohol, acidity and tannins are so well balanced that the 13.5% alcohol is not noticeable.

Ridgepoint Pinot Noir Reserve 2004 VQA (LCBO # 89003 - $20) Dark plum, raspberry and earth aromas come from the medium cherry red wine. As Pinot Noir skins are so thin, you can see through the wine unlike Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is medium bodied and quite dry. Dark plum, sour cherry and raspberry flavours are followed by a medium length dark, slightly sour cherry finish. The tannins, alcohol and acidity are nicely balanced. NOTE: The link above takes you to the 2005 Vintage currently in the LCBO. This bottle was from my cellar.

Matua Shingle Peak Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2008 (LCBO # 32441 – $29.95 March 24 Release) The nose of raspberry, dark plum and leather leads to flavours of dark raspberry and dark plums. The moderate acidity and alcohol are well balanced and give way to a long, dark raspberry finish.

Rodney Strong Estate Pinot Noir 2008 (LCBO # 954834 - $24.95) The grapes for this wine were grown in the Russian River area of Sonoma which is becoming the best known area in Sonoma for Pinot Noir. The fog rolls in overnight and keeps the grapes from getting too warm during the day. This gives a wine with dark red fruit aromas like raspberries and cherries with some leather and spice from the barrel aging. The fruit flavours are well balanced with the moderate acidity, alcohol and tannins.

Jean Claude Boisset Gevrey-Chambertin 2006 – (LCBO # 77313 - $69.00) The raspberry and dark cherry nose also shows some wood notes. The cherry and dark raspberry flavours are supported by the well integrated barrel flavours of oak, vanilla and cloves. The moderate acidity is in balance with the alcohol and tannins. This wine is ready to drink with the appropriate food but could certainly improve over the next 3 to 5 years in a cellar.

Domaine De La Vougeraie Clos De Vougeot 2006 - (LCBO # 88765 - $129.95) This wine is still somewhat tight as it isn’t ready to drink. The nose of dark cherry, earth and vanilla is followed by flavours of black raspberry and black cherry topped with a hint of oaky vanilla. The firm tannins need another 8 to 10 years of aging.

Mark McEwan with Jennifer Bain
Bram & Bluma Appel Salon at the Toronto Reference Library, 789 Yonge Street
7:00 PM
free
Celebrity chef Mark McEwan talks about five-star food, upscale retail and feeling "The Heat" with Toronto Star food editor Jennifer Bain.
[more info]

Made With Love Mixology
The Drake Hotel, 1150 Queen Street West
6:00 PM to 10:00 PM
$50 (includes taxes and gratuity)
A mind-blowing evening awaits you as the 10 best mixologists in town will engage in a festive mixology battle. Attendees will elect the one and only best mixologist while discovering an explosion of flavors throughout the night. Admission price includes tastings of the 10 cocktails along with tapas.
[more info]

CFRA Show 2010
Direct Energy Centre, Exhibition Place
10:00 AM to 6:00 PM on Sunday & Monday - 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM on Tuesday
$20 advance via link below - $30 at the door - admission limited to trade and media only
The CRFA Show, presented by the Canadian Restaurant and Foodservices Association, is the leading food and beverage industry event providing a venue for buyers and sellers of industry products. (Continues to March 9th.)
[more info]

DINNERS

Stop For Food
various restaurants
various times
$35 & $50 prix fixe menus
Dozens of Toronto’s finest restaurants unite once again for Stop for Food, a culinary celebration that raises funds for The Stop Community Food Centre, a unique anti-poverty organization in the city’s west end. Throughout the month of March, each participating restaurant will offer a special prix fixe menu priced at either $35 or $50 per person, with $5 or $10 respectively per meal being donated directly to The Stop. These menus will be prepared in each restaurant’s distinctive style, using exclusively Ontario-grown ingredients, further strengthening the bonds between local farmers and artisanal producers, restaurants and the community. (Continues to March 31st.)
[more info]

For a comprehensive list of upcoming events in and around Toronto, check out our Events page.

Openings:

• Not sure if this one should be considered an opening, reopening, or just a correction: Despite the fact that the doors were locked and a "For Rent" sign was in the window a couple of weeks ago, it seems that Semolina Bakery (188 Ossington Avenue) was open again just a few days later.
• A few months later than expected, the second location of Ravisoups (1128 Queen Street West) finally opened last week.
• Equally delayed and anticipated, chef Paul Boehmer's self-titled Böhmer (93-95 Ossington Avenue) will have its public unveiling this coming Thursday, March 11th.
• A flashy new location of The Keg opened last week at 26 The Esplanade, and as we speculated previously, the nearby Church Street Keg has been shuttered to make way for it.
• Local grocery chain Longo's is continuing the expansion of their downtown-oriented The Market by Longo's brand, with a new store opening at 100 Bloor Street East last week.
• Denizens and workers in Liberty Village have a new spot for quick breakfasts and lunches with this week's opening of Mike's Liberty Grill (155 Liberty Street, Suite 101).
• And hey, look, it's another new coffee shop! Or in this case, two new coffee shops, as Lit Espresso Bar has just opened a second location at 810 College Street, while Crema Coffee Co. is around a week away from opening their first co-branded shop inside the Freshii at 53 Bloor Street East.

Coming Up:

• Lardon (390 Roncesvalles Avenue) will be opening soon in the old Silver Spoon space, with a menu featuring the now obligatory focus on local ingredients and "nose-to-tail" meats.
• Chefs and co-owners Howard Dubrovsky and Chris Scott are putting the finishing touches on L.A.B. (Live and Breathe) (651 College Street) and hope to be open by the end of the month. On his website, Dubrovsky says that "the food will focus on global trends with Molecular Gastronomy to add some flare."
• The third location of Smoke's Poutinerie - or fourth, if you count their mobile "Smoke's On Wheels" - will be opening March 26th at 578 Queen Street West.
• Café Florentin, a popular European-style bakery and café in the Beaches, is expanding to a second location at 948 Queen Street East in Leslieville, expected to open in May.

If you have a scoop to share about the local food & restaurant scene, please let us know so we can include it in a future edition of T.O. Tidbits.

Le Select Bistro
432 Wellington Street West
416-596-6405
Brunch for two with all taxes, tip and coffee: $60

I haven't been to Le Select since they moved to the Wellington Street West location some three years ago. Once a landmark on Queen West, the restaurant there was tiny and narrow. This new space is easily double the size indoors, plus there's a gorgeous terrace out front (well, it's probably gorgeous in the summer) and a large garden patio in the back. Slightly off the beaten path for those of us who travel on foot or by TTC, their website reiterates the close proximity to lots of parking, which isn't actually endearing to me, but apparently is to everyone else who can't live without their gas-guzzler, because on a recent Sunday morning, Le Select is packed and the parking lot across the street is nearly full, despite the ongoing rain.

The space is definitely airier and brighter than the Queen West location which had a tendency to feel dark and almost dour – in an elegant French way, of course. Long banquettes and tiled walls make the room feel like a cross between a French bistro and a retro diner – the rush of servers and clinking of plates and glasses makes for a comfortable atmosphere with an exotic energy.

We can't pass up the chance for the classic coffee ($2.95) and croissant ($1.50) to start, although the husband opts for a Quebec beer ($5.50) and I also order a freshly-squeezed orange juice ($4.50). We're in the middle of the gorgeous buttery (and warm) pastries when more warm bread, this time in the form of complimentary rolls, arrives. Hurrah for carbs!

The brunch menu is extensive with a variety of eggs and sandwiches, salads, and standard brunch dishes such as French toast, as well as other French classics like duck confit. But I'm all about the escalope de fois gras aux lardons et aux figues ($19.95), a thin grilled French toast with bacon, pears sauteed in brandy, fig compote and topped with a piece of seared foie gras. Plus port maple syrup and an egg en cocotte. It is as decadent as it sounds and is a really well-executed balance of sweet and meat, the fig jam and maple syrup bringing out the sweetness in the foie gras. Our only complaint – the liver is occasionally veiny, probably from a rushed job of cleaning and prepping it, making it a bit difficult to eat politely.

Another classic, the oeufs Forestiere ($13.95) - two poached eggs atop a fricassee of mixed mushrooms and served with polenta atop tomato jam and roasted root vegetables - is a perfect hearty winter breakfast. I adore the combination of eggs and mushrooms, the sweetness of the oozing poached yolks melding with the earthiness of the fungi. And the tomato jam rocks the platter.

We have no plans to include dessert (and it's not included in the total at the top), but when our server mentions floating island ($10.95), I figure I can make room. A bowl of creamy, vanilla flecked custard topped with a mound of meringue and sprinkled with praline is a light, refreshing way to end the meal. After the baked goods and heavy mains it's almost too much, but it's also too good not to eat the whole thing.

Service is friendly and polite but slightly aloof, probably because the place is packed, with a line out the door at one point, and everyone is hoofing it to keep up. The vibe of the room, at brunch at least, while not in the least unfriendly, is not one of lingering. Not because we couldn't spend the whole day with coffee and croissants, but because with such a rush of people wanting a table, it would be impolite to dally with a paper for hours. A trip to the basement washroom takes me past the pass where the kitchen is not quite in the weeds but is definitely not getting a break any time soon.

We barely crack the list of brunch options at Le Select, but the place impresses nonetheless. I'd love to say it's a hidden gem, but by the full house and line-up, it would seem I'm the last person in town to know about it.