When training your dog to retrieve, you need to begin training in a quiet area, such as your home.  The reason we being training new behaviours in controlled areas is to keep distractions for your dog or puppy to a minimum.  This means the likelyhood of sucess is greatly increased.

It is also important to make sure that your dog has that ’special toy’ that is used for the retrieve.  Keep a toy stashed away that only comes out when  you are playing a controlled game of fetch and training a solid retrieve.   The point of this is motivation, in order for your dog to want to engage in a retrieve, the reward must be substansial enough to make the act of retrieving worthwhile, hence a toy that he can play with all day long is nothing particularly special.

Photo by Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/sgilsdorf/509992911/

Motivating your dog or puppy to the toy

Choose a toy and keep it away, only bringing it out when having a retrieve training session.  Attach your long leash to your dogs collar and show them the toy.  Make a big fuss of this ’special toy’ so that your dog becomes fascinated with what you have.   You can have a quick game of tug, then put the toy away.  Repeat this process a few times per day for a few minutes and then put the toy away.

Training the retrieve

With your long line attached, engage your puppy or dog with the toy by having a quick game of tug, then quickly throw the toy a very short distance away.  As your dog or puppy runs to the toy use gentle praise.  If you are too enthusiastic about your puppy or dog running to the toy they may quickly return to you without the toy looking for their affection, so make sure you praise is measured.

As soon as they pick up the toy run backwards, reeling in the long line, encouraging your dog or puppy back towards you.  Be quick as you reel in the longline so your dog or puppy does not have time to find something more interesting on the way back!  When your dog returns to you, lavish them with praise.  Repeat this process a few times for no more than 5 minutes to avoid fatigue or boredom and continue your training in the same manner for the next few days.  Once your dog or puppy is returning without the need for you reeling in the long line you can remove it but still remember to motivate your dog to return by running backwards, using praise.  Once this is established you can use the ‘leave it’ cue to take the toy from your dog.  See our article on teaching the ‘leave it’.

Dogs that will chase but won’t pick up

Consider the toy you are using, how comfortable is it for your dog to pick up?  Also how rewarding is the toy, a ball may be perfect for collies but a squeaker toy may be better for terriers and a soft toy or a dummy for gundogs.    If your dog is not motivated to run out to the toy run with them pick up the toy and have a game of rag, as they are tugging on the toy run back to your original place with them and reward.  Remember the tone of your voice needs to be upbeat and fun and if you feel yourself getting frustrated by a lack of enthusiasim from your dog keep the sessions very short, just do one retrieve then put the toy away each day, until their interest grows.

Photo by Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/sgilsdorf/509992911/

The basic rules of house training your puppy.

Whether you are living in a house or an apartment the basic rules are the same, there are just a few more areas for you to consider.  If you catch your puppy peeing or pooping then interrupt the behaviour but don’t chastise them.  Do utilise things like puppy training pads to get your puppy through the night time accidents, unless you plan a toilet break during the night; which is necessary if crate training.  If you are in the UK you can easily pick them up from Pets at Home or in the US ValuePad Dog Training Puppy Pads. If you are going to use a crate read my crate training guide that cover all the need to know points.

Training your puppy to toilet on cue; the assistance dog way.

Getting your puppy into a good routine using a crate and teaching your puppy a cue to let them know it’s toilet time not play time.  Have you ever wondered why assistance dog’s do not toilet when they are out and about?  It’s because they are taught to go on cue.  It’s handy for you and makes things so much clearer for your puppy.  In my time as a guide dog trainer I found this was the most effective method, so I wrote a blog post about it! If you want to train your puppy to associate a cue with the action then my house training guide will show you how (it’s really easy).  I think this is extremely beneficial, especially when house training in an apartment as your puppy needs to differentiate between going out for a walk and going out to potty.

Establishing a house training routine

Every time after your puppy has eaten or had a drink try to take them out immediately, aside from this in the first few weeks you should give them the opportunity at least hourly unless they are asleep and as soon as they awake.  Don’t worry you can extend this over the coming weeks, as their bladder and bowl control increases.  This is very important when you are living in an apartment with a puppy due to the time it will take you to get out of the building.  In most cases you should still be able to carry your 8 week old puppy and this is the best option here, as it is very rare that they will pee or poop as you carry them.  This is not a guarantee but as funny as it may sound, I am sure you wouldn’t want to be on the receiving end of that mess!  Making sure you get outside as quickly as possible is so important, as you can imagine!  If you walk your puppy downstairs on the leash, they are likely to go on the way down.

Remember the above point, if you have trained your puppy to potty on command then you shouldn’t have a problem with your puppy thinking it’s going for a walk and being over excited.  If your puppy still gets excitable when you present the leash then put the leash on and allow them to wear it around the house, as long as you constantly monitor them to avoid them snagging on any furniture.

Having an indoor ‘potty place’.

I would recommend this in an apartment, simply because you are not going to be able to predict every time when you puppy is going to go.  Especially during the night.  I would highly recommend using puppy training pads and although I personally doubt their uses as ’scent pads’ that encourage your puppy to go on them they do soak up and contain all the mess, making it very easy to clean up.

Place the puppy training pads away from their bed and water bowl, as puppies do not like to toilet where they sleep or eat.  However, not too far away as you do not want your puppy searching for the pad.  Once they have peed on the pad leave this pad down (another benefit of the pads is they reduce the scent a little).  This might not sound very nice but it will encourage your puppy to go back to the same place next time.  If you are feeling brave you can even take the pad outside with you to encourage your puppy to go when they are outside.

Looking out for the signs of a puppy about to potty

When your puppy starts sniffing at the ground, circling or looks bloated, it is very likely they are ready to go.  You have to act extremely fast in this case.  Get your puppy outside to your potty area as quickly as possible and lavish praise upon them when they go outside.  Remember to label that behaviour to create the association as you have learnt to do in the house breaking training guide.

Any other problems?

I know that everyone’s situation is different, if you are struggling with any of the above points or I haven’t covered something that is relevant to you then leave a comment and get in touch.  You can also follow me on twitter @teachingpuppies or subscribe to my RSS feed.  Look forward to hearing from my fellow dog lovers.

The long leash itself

You need to buy a leash that is long enough for your dog to be able to exhibit natural behaviour, but also a leash that is manageable for you not to become entangled in.  Buy a leash that is thick and strong, as thin leads can burn your hands if you reach out to grab it and extending leashes can cause injuries, especially if you have a strong dog that could potentially snap the thin wire.  Extending leashes can be a fantastic tool for you to have in your dog training kit, but your dog must learn to walk nicely on the leash before you begin using it.  Personally I opt for a leash that is about ten feet long, as this is a manageable length and when my dog’s are off leash I do not want them wandering further than as it lessens their response to any cues I may be giving them.  The closer your dog remains the higher level of control and responsiveness you will achieve.

Always keep the long leash loose, as if it is not attached your dog at all.  This is the response that we are looking for as they will exhibit natural behaviours whilst you are able to prevent unwanted darting off or eating of unhygienic items, as dogs love to do! Yuck.  You can also tie the long leash to your belt which will stop you from putting unnecessary tension on the leash.

Recall – making the connection

I adore using  long leashes for recall.  They give you the security that your dog is safe and also act as an effective tool for ensuring your dog responds every time you call their name.  This is used as the precursor to letting your dog off leash and it is vital that you use this before risking letting your dog run free.  I love to use the whistle at feeding times, further details of how to do this can be seen in my article on teaching the recall.  It’s a method that I picked up whilst training guide dogs for the blind, which basically uses classical conditioning to make the link between a whistle being blown and their food.  Therefore, when you are out and about and blow the whistle your dog will come bounding back to you, expecting food – just make sure you can deliver as to not weaken the link between whistling and food.

Attaching the long leash and rewarding

Any way back to the long leash.  When you are out on your daily walk with your dog or puppy use a short leash for getting to your destination.  Long leashes are not a good idea when walking near roads etc.  Once you are at the park, for example, blow your whistle (or if you are not using this method say your dog’s name) and reward with an especially tasty treat like hot dog or cheese.  Something smelly always works a charm, and your dog will be aware that you currently in possession of the tastiest treat known to dog kind!  You can now attach the long leash to your dog and continue on your walk.  Do not make a big fuss of the leash switch over, as you want your dog to act as it would off-leash.  Continue to use the odd whistle here and there rewarding your dog and lavishing it will praise.  When I say lavish, I am talking about a good ten second fuss.  This will help improve the bond you have with your dog and make coming back to you a real treat.  I like to ask my dogs for a ’sit’ when they return as I feel this gives me more control.  With assistance dogs we actually get them to target your leg by nudging it with their nose, which is also useful as you  do not want your dog running back, pinching a treat and running off again.

When your dog doesn’t respond to the recall

Now this is where the long leash really comes into it’s own.  If your dog or puppy does not respond to the recall try not to get frustrated, I know it’s easier said than done, but simply reel them in gently with the long leash and make a fuss when they come back to you.  By having the long leash attached it is not a hassle that your dog is not responding immediately.

It is important to grade the response and reward accordingly.  What I mean by this, is that if you call your puppies name and they come bounding over then give them a couple of treats and huge fuss.  If they do not respond until the second or third call or finish what they are doing before returning to you, play down the reward a little. However, you must still make sure you still give them their piece of hot dog and praise them, in order to reinforce the fact that they responded.  By doing this you are making it clear to your dog that a quick response will reap the highest reward, the response will be ‘I better get back quickly so I can get the jackpot’.

Stopping bad habits out on walks

You can also use it for interrupting unwanted behaviours such as scavenging food in the park or being over excitable with other dogs and people.  All you need to do when you spot your dog doing something that you or a member or the general public don’t like is to say ‘no’ in a firm tone and the gently reel your puppy or dog towards you.  The benefit of this tool is that you do not have to run over your dog to wrestle whatever piece of rubbish they have acquired or add excitability to the situation when your dog is being overly sociable with another dog.  We have all had those embarrassing experiences of our dogs sniffing another dogs rear end a little too firmly or picking up some kind of rubbish, but with the long leash this will not be a problem.  Your dog will learn that you are under control at all times and when you eventually remove the leash a firm no should have them walking away from the item by themselves, which you then reward by treating.

Retractable long leashes

Once you have established that your dog or puppy is well behaved on leash and not going to drag you about or bolt you can move onto a retractable leash.  They come in all shapes and sizes according to your dogs size but are generally pretty standard across the board.  One thing I would say is go for a tape one, this is because, if the worst should happen and the leash snapped you would not be at risk of a painful thin line retracting towards you.  Also if your dog does become entangled the tape will not be painful or dig in, unlike wire leashes.

Buying a long leash

Long leashes are generally pretty cheap, which is always handy.  There is no need for you to spend on an extravagant long leash as these are a temporary tool to help you out.  I would say going for something simple, strong and light is the way to go as you will be carrying it the park or beach etc. with you.
Zooplus are currently offering long leashes at – 5 m long, 6 mm wide

Buying a retractable long leash

Unlike the long leash it is worth purchasing the highest quality retractable long leash you can afford.  This is generally because they are a lot stronger and the mechanisms are less likely to fail in a quality product.  Shop around and find something that is perfect for your dog’s size. Personally I tend to use the flexi brand but it’s all about personal preference.  You can purchase well priced retractable long leashes here -
Flexi Long 3 Retractable TAPE Leash for Dogs or pop down to your local pet store to view their ranges.

This is part one in the long leash series so subscribe to news feed, or get in touch just to chat or with any questions or problems you may be having by commenting or following me on twitter @teachingpuppies.

This part of the series details how to introduce your puppy to small animals such as rabbits and birds.  Caring for your puppy and caring for your other pets is so important and you want to get the balance just right.  As you can imagine this is a delicate matter as the animals can be extremely delicate and fearful of predation.  It is important to keep both animals calm and pay special attention to your small animal as they are likely to be stressed by the new addition and it is your job to minimise this anxiety as much as possible.

Before the Introduction

If it is the first day you have brought your puppy home then try and keep your puppy and rabbit or puppy and bird separated until the puppy has had time to settle in for a few days.  If this is not logistically possible then the method is still the same but be aware that your puppy will be more anxious at this point and you should avoid the obedience section as putting pressure on a puppy in a new environment may be too stressful.  You may find the DAP diffuser helps reduce this stress, especially if you have it set up before you bring your puppy home (see below for more details of DAP and it’s uses). When introducing your new pets to each other it is a good idea to make sure that your puppy has been exercised beforehand.  This will ensure that your new puppy is tired out before meeting your other pets, as you don’t want him or her bounding over to your rabbit or bird terrifying them on their first meeting.  I would also recommend running through a little obedience, you only need to do some simple tasks like saying your puppies name then giving him or her a reward a few times .  This will allow you to have more control over your puppy as they are likely to be more responsive to you when you introduce your rabbit to them.

A Relaxed Introduction To Your Rabbit or Bird

Try to get a family member or friend to assist you on the initial introduction.  Ask them to enter the room after handling your rabbit or bird and interact with the puppy allowing them to gather information based on the smells of your other pet.  Once your puppy has had a good sniff and appears disinterested you can then bring your rabbit or bird into the room, whilst someone else holds your puppy.  Walk towards each other, whilst feeding the puppy treats so that they make a positive association around these delicate animals.  Allow the puppy to sniff the rabbit and be in fairly close proximity to the bird, at all times ensuring the puppy is not within reaching distance of your bird and in a firm hold near your rabbit.   You can then sit down next to each other and interact with the puppy in order to let him know that this other pet is no big deal and there are far more interesting things for him /her to be doing.  Now would be a good time to get to ask them for a few basic obedience behaviours such as the sit and down.  Keep things calm and repeat this exercise over the next few days, always rewarding calm behaviour from your puppy.

Dog Appeasing Pheromones

Dog Appeasing Pheromone also known as DAP can help reduce anxiety, especially during novel situations such as introductions.  It is odourless to humans but will help calm dogs which can aid smooth introductions to your other pets.  It is a synthetic analogue of a pheromone that whelping bitches secrete that calms the puppy shortly after birth and beyond.  This product can have the same effects upon adult dogs and is used frequently to promote calm, relaxed dogs and puppies. DAP is currently available in three forms., which acts just like an air freshener, easily plugging into a socket and releasing a constant flow of pheromones. You can also opt for the which is handy as you can spray it on their bedding or in your car to help reduce stress. The latest innovation is a collar , they look and feel much like a flea collar, the pheromone lasts for up to four weeks in these collars and allows the dog to benefit from the calming properties of DAP when out walking. If you are based in the UK you can purchase DAP from any veterinarian or online at petsupermarket by typing DAP into the search and scrolling down a little.

Top tips: Do not allow puppy’s living with rodents and birds to have access to furry or squeaky toys as these only encourage prey drive.  Use rubber toys, frisbee’s and instead.

People always assume that cats and dogs will fight.  I can tell you from first hand experience ,caring for puppies and kittens that grow up to adore each other, that I have never had any problems.  The opposite in fact; my cat regularly shares her bed with two huge retrievers and enjoys getting groomed by my Flatcoat daily who licks her from head to toe!  This equilibrium is achieved through careful introduction and respecting the individual animals needs and this article will show you how to make the transition as easy as possible.

Bringing a new puppy home to your cat

Keep your cat and puppy separated for the first two days, allowing both puppy and cat to acclimatise to each others smells.  Play, train and interact with your new puppy until she is very tired.  Once she has fallen asleep allow your cat into the room to explore.  Allow your cat to wander all over the room and up to the puppy.  Try not to encourage your puppy to wake and interact with the cat, remember we want this first introduction to be stress free especially for your cat.  Make sure that there is an escape route for your cat should the puppy awake and the cat becomes uncomfortable.  Repeat this process over two days several times.  Begin to build up by bringing the cat in whilst the pup is eating or playing.  Your ideal it to have them ignore each other at first.  Once they are comfortable around each other they will become the best of friends.

Appeasing pheromones for your cat

I would also recommend buying a product called Feliway, which is a synthetic analogue of an appeasing pheromone which will allow you cat to feel more relaxed. 
The new pheromone Feliway spray or diffuser duplicates the smell of a cat’s natural scent glands. Containing the synthetic scent hormone, the plug-in diffuser allows the Feliway scent to permeate throughout the environment. Each plug-in will cover an area of 50 to 70 square metres and lasts approximately four weeks. Alterations in the cat’s environment such as visits to the vet, moving house, new arrivals, or nervous cats may manifest themselves as a change in behaviour such as urine marking, scratching, loss of appetite and refusal to play and interact. The diffuser helps to restore a feeling of calm in the cat. You should also consider putting your cats bed in an out of reach area, either a room the puppy cannot enter or ideally high up so your cat can observe the new addition in a place when he or she feels secure.  If you have cat litter make sure you put it in a place that is out of reach of the puppy as they do like to dig and occasionally eat litter!

TOP TIPS: Don’t be afraid to tell your puppy ‘no’ for chasing the cat. Don’t encourage the puppy to interact with your cat (an overexcited puppy leads to a stressed out cat).  You can also use the leave it command.

Bringing your new cat  home to your dog

If you are introducing a new cat into your home and you are worried about your dogs reaction then you should consider taking a blanket to the original home of the cat.  Rub the cat with the blanket and bring it home allowing your dog to investigate it and become familiar will the scent of the new cat.  Animals communicate many things through scent including social status and by using them for introductions we can help ease the transactions.  Keep your dog on a leash when you introduce the new cat and try not to restrict the cats movement.  Allow the cat to have somewhere to get away from your dog and vice versa.  By having a cat bed on top of a secure shelf your new cat can avoid any unwanted attention.  Allowing your dog access to a crate that they love can also give them a safe haven from your cat.

Dog Appeasing Pheromones

Dog Appeasing Pheromone also known as DAP can help reduce anxiety, especially during novel situations such as introductions. It is odourless to humans but will help calm dogs which can aid smooth introductions to your other pets. It is a synthetic analogue of a pheromone that whelping bitches secrete that calms the puppy shortly after birth and beyond. This product can have the same effects upon adult dogs and is used frequently to promote calm, relaxed dogs and puppies. DAP is currently available in three forms., which acts just like an air freshener, easily plugging into a socket and releasing a constant flow of pheromones. You can also opt for the which is handy as you can spray it on their bedding or in your car to help reduce stress. The latest innovation is a collar , they look and feel much like a flea collar, the pheromone lasts for up to four weeks in these collars and allows the dog to benefit from the calming properties of DAP when out walking. If you are based in the UK you can purchase DAP from any veterinarian or online at petsupermarket by typing DAP into the search and scrolling down a little.

Here you will learn how to teach your puppy to be happy wearing the leash and not view it as a negative piece of equipment but as something that leads to fun.  You will also learn how to keep your puppy calm when you produce the leash, which can be a major problem for many dog owners.  The presentation of the leash should not cause too much excitement but a puppy or dog who has as happy and relaxed attitude to walking.

Puppies can struggle with the early stages of leash training and this is a fairly common problem, especially in young puppies who have not become accustomed to the lead or who are fearful when out in the big bad world.  If your puppy is not trained to walk on the leash then they are likely to refuse to walk when restrained.  This can manifest into tugging on you or the leash like it’s a toy, stopping and lying down or generally being skittish.  You need to train your puppy in the basic manners of leash walking.

Presenting the Leash

When you take the leash over towards your puppy make sure that you have a treat in your other hand.  Ask your puppy to sit before clipping on the leash, whilst feeding a treat with your free hand.  Be consistent every time you do this and soon enough you will produce the leash and your puppy will automatically sit as the leash itself becomes the cue as opposed to you even having to ask for it.  For example the puppy sees the leash in your hand and because you have been consistent and always asked your puppy to sit followed by a treat, they will actually view the leash as the connection to the action.  This means you puppy will not be jumping all over you excitedly when you produce the leash.  If your puppy refuses to sit due to being excitable then simply put the leash behind you back and wait patiently for your puppy to calm down and respond.  If you don’t get the response that you were asking for then your puppy does not get the reward, the reward here being a treat or a walk.  You cannot make exceptions to this rule as your puppy will soon discover you are inconsistent and they will then become inconsistent to their response to you.  This doesn’t mean that you don’t walk your puppy that day simply that they will have to wait another five minutes until you present the leash again.

Light Puppy Leash

When you first get your puppy or if you are solving an existing walking problem, attach an extremely light puppy leash and allow it to trail whilst they potter around the house.  Keep it attached whilst you feed them and calmly stroke them to build up a positive association.  Remember you must supervise your puppy when doing this as leashes can catch on furniture which may cause injury or distress.

Once you are happy your puppy is not fazed by the leash you can begin training by holding the leash in your home or garden.  To get started firmly grip the treat in your fingers with enough poking out to allow your puppy to smell and lick at.  Now you have your puppy sniffing at the treat (you want an almost magnetic effect), use the treat in a semi circular motion to guide your puppy around to your left hand side. Begin walking keeping your hand low (this stops jumping up), when your puppy is walking on a loose leash say ‘good’ and dispense a treat.  After ten steps stop and have a game or make a fuss of your dog, keep it short and sweet.  Extend this to twenty steps and so on until you can walk for a good five minutes without a halt.

Progressing the behaviour

If your puppy bites on the leash use the leave it cue. You can use this and give them a treat when they release the leash.  Once your puppy is being responsive, practice the training sessions in many different locations when you are out and about.  You are now ready to progress to teaching the ‘heel’ command and reducing the treats, which is covered in part 3 of this series.  If you are struggling with your puppy pulling you on the leash then part 2 will give you the answers you are looking for.

A Calm Approach

Drain some of your dog’s energy with a game followed by a calming relaxation session to ensure he is attentive and ready for the training session. Start teaching the cue in your home.  By beginning the learning process in a familiar environment with minimal distractions you are far more likely to succeed.  Once your dog is responding reliably to the ‘heel’ cue you can start practising outdoors.  When you change location your dog is not as likely to respond as well as they did when you were at home.  It will take a little more training, using the same method to get the response when there are brilliant smells and sights around to distract your dog.

Teaching the Behaviour

You don’t need to attach the lead yet as you are indoors, this is the best option at first, as it stops you from pulling on the lead accidentally, which can inadvertently teach the puppy to pull.  To get started firmly grip the treat in your fingers with enough poking out to allow your puppy to smell and lick at.  Now you have your puppy sniffing at the treat (you want an almost magnetic effect), use the treat in a semi circular motion to guide your puppy around to your left hand side.  If your hand is any higher than the dogs height he/she will jump up to obtain the treat, do not reprimand your dog, just lower your hand so your puppy is comfortable with all four paws on the ground.  Should your puppy paw at your hand simply ignore this action, as long as you do not release the reward as he does this the behaviour will fade out quickly.

You want your puppies shoulder to be in perfect alignment with your leg.  This is your benchmark position.  If your puppy moves further forward you should repeat luring him or her around in a semi circular motion again to your left hand side.

By keeping your hand just in front of your leg you can maintain a good position.  If your puppy is creeping forward keep your arm movement in check. Many people fail to notice their hand being pushed forward by their puppy and end up stretching out, which isn’t good for anyone.
Encourage your puppy to walk with you on the leash by taking confident paces.  Remember we are still in the house so the limited space will actually benefit you right now.  By walking in fairly small circles anticlockwise you are able to block your puppy from speeding off ahead of you or veering to the left.

As you walk tell your puppy ‘good’ every time he or she is in the correct position with a loose leash, followed quickly by the reward in your hand.  When filling your hand with treats ask your puppy for a sit so he or she has something to do.

The heel command

Once you have established a nice response, whereby when you put the leash on and move your hand to the left in the same way you have been luring and your puppy responds you can start adding in the ‘heel’ command.  So remember the routine is ‘heel’, ‘good’, treat.

As you walk slowly begin to prolong the time between giving treats.  If your dog begins to lose interest you have moved on too quickly so shorten the intervals.  Eventually, when your dog is responding reliably and for prolonged periods you can just treat randomly for a good heel position.  Think of it as a slot machine – your dog keeps walking to heel as they know that every now and then you will pay out!

To the victor the spoils!  You can now enjoy a hassle free stroll and impress your friends at the local dog park at the same time.

Today I taught my two year old golden retriever Sophie to crawl on command.  I was milling around earlier today and it was cold, wet and dark outside.  We had already been on a walk to the beach, wrapped up head to toe in waterproof gear but after we had been home for a few hours, Sophie has had her power nap she wanted to play.  I could not face the great outdoors again and as you may know if you follow me on twitter my eye infection is not helped by the cold British winds!

Treats

Any way back to the all important dog training!  So Sophie was suitably calm after a good walk and a nap and we were ready to go.  I knew as soon as I used a treat to lure her to the down position she would go into her default ‘play dead’ so I had to use something extra special so she could not react more quickly than I could direct her behaviour.   So, as odd as this sounds I used bread!  Its important to use whatever motivates your dog the most rather than something you perceive to be tasty to the dog and for Sophie its bread all the way.

Lure

I held the bread in my right hand and placed it on the end of her nose and guided it to the ground.  Then I moved my hand forward, making sure to keep it low to the ground to stop her from wanting to get up into the stand.  Unfortunately I moved my hand a little too quickly forward which resulted in a bit of a bunny hop.  So starting again I moved my hand across the floor very slowly.  I repeated this for about five minutes or so and then we had a little play and cuddle to chill out.  I have to be careful with Sophie as she can get quickly stressed when learning something new.

Command

This was repeated a fair few times and quickly she was following my hand signal without food being present.  About half an hour later I repeated the process and began to add a verbal command.  I used ‘crawl’ as she moved, followed by ‘good’ and a treat.

All in all a successful training session and by doing it in small chunks she picked it up quickly and we avoided the rain whilst keeping both of us entertained.

Equipment Needed

The first thing to do is to buy a CD called ‘crash, bang, wallop’.  This CD will provide you with the necessary sounds for desensitizing your dog to the stresses and strains of fireworks and many other unpleasant noises.  You are also going to need whatever motivates your dog the most. Is Fido crazy for treats or does he love to chew on a toy?  Think about this as you are going to need the strongest motivator for your dog possible.  If your dog loves treats then save the tastiest (usually hot dogs or cheese) for this occasion. If your dog is toy motivated, keep a special toy tucked away out of reach that only comes out when it’s training time.

How to desensitize and counter condition

Desensitizing is to take your dog from a state of anxiety around a certain stimulus to a neutral state and counter conditioning will allow your dog to make a positive association with the sounds.

Play your CD at the lowest possible volume, literally so that you cannot hear almost anything. Reward your dog with a game or lavish them with treats.  Your dog should not be showing any signs of stress at this point whatsoever.  If you do see excessive panting, yawning, scratching or general anxiety then turn that volume further down (you have it too high). If necessary place the CD player in the next room.

TOP TIP: Playing the CD at meal times is a great way to make a positive association.

Timing

Repeat this around four times a day for no longer than three minutes.  You can squeeze a session in whilst you wait for the kettle to boil it’s that quick.  Keeping it short and sweet is definitely the way to go with fear issues. Make things fun for your dog and ensure that you are rewarding good behaviours.

Increasing the noise levels

Remember your timing and increase the volume by the slightest increment.  Repeat the steps for desensitization and counter conditioning.  Rewarding your dog and playing games.  You need to be very aware of how your dog is reacting and take the increasing volume at your dogs pace. If you increase too quickly your dog will become anxious.  Over a few weeks you can slowly build your dog up until the CD is playing at a considerable volume whilst you and your dog are having a great time!
TOP TIP : DAP diffusers or collars can help calm your dog through appeasing pheromones, pick one up at your local vets.

Your signals

Try to make sure you stay calm and relaxed if you see any anxiety for your dog. Do not respond to anxious behaviour, just calmly take a step back and lower your levels and expectations. Remember you have to go at your dog’s rate and there is no quick fix although this method only takes a few minutes a day.

If your problems with other dogs are related to dogs outside your house hold you may find dealing with dog to dog problems is of help.

If the problem is based around your puppy or young dog being too boisterous for your older dog then you should supervise when your dogs spend time together.  When your puppy jumps at your older dog try to allow them to work it out between them.  If your older dog gives a warning bark do not tell them off for this they are simply doing the equivalent of you telling your puppy ‘no’ for doing the same to you. If things become really out of hand and you can see your older dog becoming distressed and not taking any action you can give the ‘leave it’ command and as the puppy comes away from the older dog you can reward them with a Kong Toy stuffed with food (the other dog can have one too).  If your problem is the other way around then you simply reverse the roles. This will give both dogs a positive association of being around each other and that they can be calm in each others presence.

Dogs do tend to bite and growl when they play and the roughest play to us is just fun and games to them.  My dog will happily hang off my older dogs ears and he does not bat an eyelid as he is so laid back. Then every now and then when he has had enough he will bark at her to tell her so, at which point she backs off immediately.  However, if your older dog is not as tolerant and you don’t have a chew to hand you can take your puppy or dog (whoever is being the instigator) and lead them into another room for one minute (don’t put them in a crate as you don’t want to build up a negative association with it).

Dog Appeasing Pheromones

Dog Appeasing Pheromone also known as DAP can help reduce anxiety, especially during novel situations. If your dogs are not getting on because one or both are feeling anxious or show any signs of fear it may be worth you investing in a DAP product. It is odourless to humans but will help calm dogs which can aid smooth introductions to your other pets. It is a synthetic analogue of a pheromone that whelping bitches secrete that calms the puppy shortly after birth and beyond. This product can have the same effects upon adult dogs and is used frequently to promote calm, relaxed dogs and puppies. DAP is currently available in three forms online or from your vet., which acts just like an air freshener, easily plugging into a socket and releasing a constant flow of pheromones. You can also opt for the which is handy as you can spray it on their bedding or in your car to help reduce stress. The latest innovation is a collar , they look and feel much like a flea collar, the pheromone lasts for up to four weeks in these collars and allows the dog to benefit from the calming properties of DAP when out walking and interacting with other dogs. If you are based in the UK you can purchase DAP from any veterinarian or online at petsupermarket by typing DAP into the search and scrolling down a little.