Appliance Repair Blog

The Appliance Repair Blog Update

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Tue, 01 May 2012 20:46:00 +0000

Dear friends, visitors and those just passing through looking for appliance information. After several years and hundreds of posts, I have had to make a decision to no longer provide new content to my appliance repair blog. This decision was difficult and didn’t come easy, but is best given the time needed to run my business, do service calls, and spend time working with my websites. The good news, however, is most of what has been presented years over these years can now be found on my other website AllTechAppliance.com along with a forum available to get your appliance related questions answered. So head on over and see the new site and thanks again for visiting.

285811 - Cam Agitator Kit

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Tue, 01 May 2012 07:01:00 +0000

Click on Photo for pricing and availability Powered by AppliancePartsPros This kit is used to replaced a damaged top portion of the agitator on Whirlpool built top load washers. This only works on those with split agitator models meaning the top turns independently of the bottom. The common failure is evidenced by a grinding or ratcheting noise from the agitator during wash, or the washer may seem to be washing poorly.

279834 - Dryer Gas Coils

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Tue, 01 May 2012 07:01:00 +0000

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One of the more common components to fail on gas dryers, this two coil kit can get your dryer up and heating again and they are easy to install. The gas valve in many dryers made by Whirlpool, Maytag, and Frigidaire use these two coils to control the gas flow to the burner. As the coils age, they have difficulty holding the valves open and as a result, the burner will not reignite during a drying cycle. A common symptom is heat at the beginning of the cycle, but by the end, only cold air is blowing through. If you can see the burner igniter glowing, but the gas never turns on, these coils are the likely cause of the problem.

3949247 - Washer Lid Switch

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Tue, 01 May 2012 07:01:00 +0000

Click on Photo for pricing and availabilityPowered by AppliancePartsPros Found on many older Whirlpool built washing machines, this switch is a safety device preventing operation when the lid is opened. Located on the right side under the top lip of the washer, the switch is actuated by a tab attached to the lid. When the lid is closed, an audible click should be heard from the switch. If not, the switch is likely broken. The common symptom when one of these switches fails is the washer will fill with water, but will not do anything else.

3392519 - Dryer Thermal Fuse

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Thu, 26 Apr 2012 07:01:00 +0000

Click on Photo for pricing and availabilityPowered by AppliancePartsPros

This thermal fuse is used in many Whirlpool built electric dryers and can generally be found on the blower housing on the back of the dryer. The common symptom that occurs when one of these fail is the dryer will not start. Thermal fuses can be check with a simple continuity check from a multimeter. If the fuse has failed, it is important to check the venting from the dryer to the outside of the home as this is the most likely reason for the fuse to fail. These fuses are also used on gas dryers, but the symptom will be the dryer will not heat.

3363394 - Whirlpool Washer Pump

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Tue, 24 Apr 2012 07:01:00 +0000

Click on Photo for pricing and availability Powered by AppliancePartsPros Used on many Whirlpool built direct drive top load washers, this drain pump is attached to the front of the motor with two spring clips. Common failures will be leaking from the middle of the pump due to debris which may also be accompanied by noise, and the washer not draining due to it being plugged. Remember if there is water in the tub and you remove one of the drain hoses, all that water will be in your lap very quickly.

12001541 - Dryer Drum Roller

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Thu, 19 Apr 2012 07:01:00 +0000

Click on Photo for pricing and availability Powered by AppliancePartsPros Two of these rollers can be found at the back of most Maytag, Amana, and Admiral brand dryers and will often times the source of a continuous squeaking noise while in operation. When replacing the rollers, be sure and clean off all remaining lint, dirt and do not use grease as that will only shorten the life of the new rollers.

285753A - Direct Drive Motor Coupler

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Tue, 17 Apr 2012 07:01:00 +0000

Click on Photo for pricing and availabilityPowered by AppliancePartsPros This coupler can be found between the drive motor and gearcase on all Whirlpool built direct-drive washers. This includes brands like Roper, Estate, Kenmore, Kitchenaid, and now Maytag and Amana. The typical symptom will be the washer will fill with water, the motor will run but it will not agitate or spin. Sometimes associated with a loud ratcheting noise, if you tilt the washer back and have a look under the unit, the telltale rubber shavings will usually confirm the failure.

131763202 - Frigidaire Washer Door Lock

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Thu, 12 Apr 2012 07:01:00 +0000

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The door lock used on many of the Frigidaire front load washers. The common failure on these is the wax motor portion as indicated by the washer not spinning at the end of the wash cycle. Accessible from the front after the door bellow (door seal) front spring is removed.

4396710- Refrigerator Water Filter

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Tue, 10 Apr 2012 07:01:00 +0000

Click on Photo for pricing and availability Powered by AppliancePartsPros

PuR® Filter for Whirlpool® & KitchenAid® Side by Side Refrigerators with Push Button. -- Easy Access Through the Front Base Grill. Reduces Cysts, Asbestos, Chlorine's taste and odor, particulates, lead, mercury and more.

Kitchenaid oven door falls open

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Sat, 07 Apr 2012 07:01:00 +0000

Model #KEBC107KSS0, this built in single oven had developed a problem with the door not closing which would usually result in excess heat escaping from the top of the door while baking. The customer, in all fairness to them, had moved into the home recently and really didn't think much about the problem, but figured it should get looked at anyway.

Oven doors are designed to seal cleanly around all sides when closed. Most will have a cloth like or rubber door seal that when closed, will prevent most heat from escaping. I say most because if you feel around the edge of your oven door while baking, you very likely will feel some heat. When these seals come loose of begin to fail, excess heat will find its way out of the oven and you may begin to experience excessive baking times.

In the case of this oven, when the door was closed, the top would stick out and not line up with the rest of the trim. The customer also noticed the oven light would stay on because the door wasn't closing enough to actuate the light switch.

When the door is opened, as you can see in the photo, the door will open beyond the normal horizontal limit which is a good indication of hinges that have been hyper extended. This is usually the result of someone accidentally leaning on the door when they didn't realize it was open. Once the door gets to this point, both the right hinge and left hinge will need to be replaced. Please note: these are the new hinges for the stainless steel doors and not for the painted glass doors. Stainless is heavier so these hinges are stronger.

Hinge replacement isn't usually to difficult, but when disassembling any door, keep track of which parts went where. That's my fair warning because the typical oven door is make up of many parts sandwiched together and held by a few screws. Not keeping track of parts will result in frustration.

I should also caution you that once the door hinges have been replaced, the door may not fully return to factory like condition because if the damage was great enough, the hinge receivers may have also been damaged as well. Replacing these can be a bit more difficult, but it can be done.

279838 - Whirlpool Dryer Cut-off Kit

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Thu, 05 Apr 2012 07:01:00 +0000

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This kit fits most Whirlpool built dryers including Maytag, Kitchenaid, Roper, and Estate, that has the lint filter that comes out the top of the dryer. It is generally the cut-off that fails, but the kit also comes witha new high limit thermostat and the associated wiring. If you find the cut-off has failed, check the airflow from the dryer to the outside vent to ensure it is clear, or you may be replacing another kit very soon.

4387835 - Refrigerator Compressor Starter Kit

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Tue, 03 Apr 2012 07:01:00 +0000

Click on Photo for pricing and availability Powered by AppliancePartsPros This kit is used to replace a failed factory starter on many Whirlpool built refrigerators. The common failure the customer will experience is loss of cooling and a if you listen very close about every few minutes you will hear an audible hum and click as the compressor is trying to start. The components in the kit may look different than the original but if connected the same way, will work.

Frigidaire Microwave not working

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Sat, 31 Mar 2012 07:01:00 +0000

Model #PLMVZ169HCA, this over the range microwave and hood combination would appear to turn on when the start button was pressed, but only the timer would could down. The normal operating sounds were not heard and when the door was opened, the cavity lamp was not working and neither was the surface lighting or vent fan. It was acting like a dead unit except the display and touch pad were still functioning.

Microwave ovens that stop working are not to difficult to diagnose, but they can be very difficult to service. I must say that if you are unfamiliar with the servicing of any microwave oven that you do not attempt your own repair. Microwave ovens use very high voltages during their operation that may still be present even when the unit is unplugged from the outlet. Touching the wrong part can result in serious injury or death so do not be casual about working on one of these units. Nuff said.

Given the behavior of the unit, and the fact the display was illuminated and counting down, I at least knew the control board was operational, and the secondary interlock switch was working. But with everything else on the broken list, it was time to get out the meter and take some electrical measurements.

With the panel removed, I was able to get to the connections on the back side of the board and started verifying voltages to the board. The one I was most concerned with is the voltage that comes out of the control relay and goes to the high voltage transformer. This is also the input source for all the other components so I figured it was a good place to start. In making my check at the connection, the cavity lamp turned on a for a brief instant which was surprise enough that I quickly pulled my test leads away. But my meter did register 120 voltage AC going into the relay, so I knew power was up to that point. But it was the flicker of the lamp that hinted at the reason for the failure.

Control boards contain electrical components that are soldered to wire traces on these boards which provide paths for current to flow. Think of them as wires that lead from component to components making a complete circuit. And just like wires, when a connection becomes broken, current cannot flow and the circuit will no longer function.

I removed all the connections from the panel so I could take it down from the microwave. A few screws removed had the control board separated from the panel so I could take a closer look at it. After some close inspection, I found the reason for the light flickering, and why nothing else was working. One of the solder connections for the main relay had become broken and was now loosely connected to the trace on the back of the board. This happens to be the point current flowes into the board before it goes out to the other components that were all not working. By pushing against the relay, I was able to visually see the broken connection and damaged wire trace.

The solution was as simple as installing a new control board given this microwave was still under a manufacturers warranty. Had this been a COD call, an acceptable solution would be to repair the electrical connection with a soldering iron and wire. Most techs I would with don't have much soldering practice let alone a soldering iron, but if you do, fix the board and save the customer some money.

With the new board installed, everything started working like it was new.

Presented by - All Tech Appliance Service, your Portland Oregon appliance repair company. We service many brands of refrigerators, washers, dryers, ranges, dishwashers, freezers, ovens and microwaves including popular brands like Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Frigidaire, Amana, GE, Jenn Air, Ikea, Sears, Estate, Roper, Electrolux, KitchenAid, Fisher & Paykel and more. Visit us online at AllTechAppliance.com

3363394 - Washer Drain Pump

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Thu, 29 Mar 2012 07:01:00 +0000

Click on Photo for pricing and availabilityPowered by AppliancePartsPros This drain pump is found on most of the newer Whirlpool built top load washers including Roper, Estate, and even newer Maytag. Located on the front of the motor and held in by a couple spring clips. Common failures are noise and leaking.

3949238 - Washer Lid Switch

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Tue, 27 Mar 2012 07:01:00 +0000

Click on Photo for pricing and availability Powered by AppliancePartsPros

Found on many Whirlpool built top load washers, when this switch fails, the general indication will be the washer will not spin or it will fill with water, but won't agitate or spin. Not do difficult to replace, just make sure and unplug the washer before you do.

Roper Washer stops during cycle

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Sat, 24 Mar 2012 07:01:00 +0000

Model #RAX6144EW1, this top load washer would intermittently stop running in the middle of a wash cycle. The customer noticed that sometimes she could get it to run again my pressing down on the lid or by opening and closing the lid. But this seemed to be working less often and the customer was interested in finding a more permanent solution for this problem.

Top load washers all use switches of some kind as a means to determine when the lid has been opened and when it is closed. The switch is part of an interlock circuit, designed to prevent injury to consumers while the machine is in operation. Depending on the age of the washer, the interlock may only stop the operation during the spin cycles, while newer models disable all wash motor functions when the lid is opened. And still some others will lock the door anytime the motor is in operation requiring the cycle to be paused to gain access to the clothes. Whatever type you have, the purpose is the same, to provide a measure of safety during washer operation.

This washer was exhibiting the typical signs of a failing lid switch so I figured I would start there. The switch is mounted on the right side of the tub opening and is actuated by a post attached to the lid. When the lid is closed, the switch contacts close completing the circuit to the motor. Often times, the two screws that hold this switch in place will come loose and allows the switch body to sag preventing the post from contacting it. And still other times, the internal switch contacts will become bent due to age and use, requiring the actuator arm to travel further to close the switch. Looking at this switch, the mounting holes were in good shape, but the arm had to travel very far before I heard the 'click' from the internal switch contacts. Looks like a new switch is going to be needed for this repair.

If you notice your washer behaving in a similar manor, the lid switch may be the reason for the troubles. There are many different switches used in washers these days so when looking for replacement washer parts, make sure you are using the complete model number for your washer. After finding the correct switch for this washer, I removed the cabinet to make things easier and installed the new lid switch using the existing screws.

Once everything was put back together, I explained to the customer how the switch works and showed her how sometimes the 'click' could be heard when the lid was closed and other times not. By pressing down on the lid (as the customer noticed), the post was able to travel the extra distance actuating the switch. With the job complete, the customer started a wash cycle, and this time it didn't stop in the middle.

Presented by - All Tech Appliance Service, your Portland Oregon appliance repair company. We service many brands of refrigerators, washers, dryers, ranges, dishwashers, freezers, ovens and microwaves including popular brands like Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Frigidaire, Amana, GE, Jenn Air, Ikea, Sears, Estate, Roper, Electrolux, KitchenAid, Fisher & Paykel and more. Visit us online at AllTechAppliance.com

4318046 - Refrigerator Defrost Timer

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Thu, 22 Mar 2012 07:01:00 +0000

Click on Photo for pricing and availability Powered by AppliancePartsPros The key to the frost free refrigerator is something that periodically turns off the cooling system, and turns on the heater to melt away accumulated frost on the evaporator. This time which is found on many base model refrigerators is what sets the defrost cycle. Generally a defrost failure is going to involve what is referred to as a defrost terminator, but sometimes these timers will fail and simply shut off the compressor. This kit comes complete with instructions that need to be followed or it will not run correctly.

12002744 - Evaporator Fan Motor

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Tue, 20 Mar 2012 07:01:00 +0000

Click on Photo for pricing and availability Powered by AppliancePartsPros The evaporator fan motor is the sound you hear inside the freezer and in many refrigerators is responsible for circulating air between the freezer and fresh food sections. If this motor fails, the general indication will be a freezer that is working fine, but he fresh food section is getting warm. This failure is more pronounced in units with freezers on the bottom due to cold air naturally wanting to fall.

GE Refrigerator not cooling

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Sat, 17 Mar 2012 07:01:00 +0000

Model #GDS18SBRARSS, this bottom mount refrigerator stopped cooling properly in the fresh food section up top, while the bottom freezer seemed to be functioning and cooling like normal. To the customer, everything seemed to be running since it sounded like it always had, but the 60 degree temperature in the fresh food section was well above acceptable. After disposing of the spoiled food item', and taking advantage of the empty refrigerator to clean it out, a call was placed to get this unit looked at.

Refrigerators use a sealed system of refrigerant in order to provide cooling within the unit, and this cooling relies on air circulation in order to effectively keep everything properly chilled. And contrary to popular believe, refrigerators don't actually make cold, but rather remove heat. It all follows the laws of thermodynamics, which one states, heat moves from a warmer area to a colder area. This is why any heat within either the fresh food or freezer section, will move toward a colder area, which in a sealed refrigeration system is the evaporator coils. These coils are usually located within the freezer section, but there may be a set in the fresh food side as well. As air circulates by a fan motor, the warmer air will move toward the colder evaporator coils where any heat will be absorbed leaving cool air behind. This may sound odd, but trust me, this is how it works. The cool air continues around the cavity attracting any heat within, only to return to the evaporator section to do it all over again.

The actions of the sealed system are very reliable and fortunately require little maintenance other than periodic condenser cleanings, but the system is dependant on a couple other parts to help maintain this flow of air. And when one of them fails to do it's job, the result is usually throwing away some spoiled food items.

When diagnosing any cooling issues on refrigerators, I usually try and separate the sealed system calls from non sealed system calls just to make things easier. If a sealed system component were to fail, the entire unit would stop cooling, where as if one of the other components failed, the cooling problem will usually be limited to a partial failure. Since this unit was cooling properly in the freezer section, I knew the sealed system was functioning, now it was time to identify which part was no longer working.

Upon my arrival, I started by using my senses to not only see what was going on, but also to hear what was, or was not in this case, functioning. The normal compressor and fan sounds from behind where noticeable, but the familiar sound of a fan running coming from the freezer section was not heard. Without this fan moving the cool air from top to bottom, the fresh food section up top was never going to be properly cooled.

The evaporators are usually located behind the rear panel inside the freezer, but this design allowed for a deeper freezer section by placing the evaporator in the space between the freezer top, and the fresh food bottom. So by removing the floor inside the fresh food section, I was able to get to the evaporator coils and found the evaporator fan motor not moving at all. A flip of the fan started it working again which means there was no physical blockage preventing it from moving. But an indication the motor had seen better days.

With the power off to the unit, I removed the old motor, and installed a new evaporator fan motor into the mounting. Don't be surprised if the new motor looks different than the old motor. Designs change and upgrades are common with these motors. Once the fan was back on the new motor shaft, the refrigerator was plugged back in, and the fan came on with the compressor just as it should. After the bottom panel was put back in place, I could feel cold air again coming from the rear air vents up top which is a sure sign this unit was cooling and after a few hours, would be ready for food again.

Presented by - All Tech Appliance Service, your Portland Oregon appliance repair company. We service many brands of refrigerators, washers, dryers, ranges, dishwashers, freezers, ovens and microwaves including popular brands like Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Frigidaire, Amana, GE, Jenn Air, Ikea, Sears, Estate, Roper, Electrolux, KitchenAid, Fisher & Paykel and more. Visit us online at AllTechAppliance.com

4318046 - Refrigerator Water Valve

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Thu, 15 Mar 2012 07:01:00 +0000

Click on Photo for pricing and availability Powered by AppliancePartsPros This dual valve fits many Whirlpool built refrigerators with ice and water in the door. The kit comes with many different water fittings as this valve is the new replacement for several older styles. In many cases, the ends of the water lines will need to be cut off in order to fit into the new valve fittings.

8318084 - Washer Lid Switch

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Tue, 13 Mar 2012 07:01:00 +0000

Click on Photo for pricing and availability Powered by AppliancePartsPros This lid switch is used on newer Whirlpool built top load washers and is located under the control panel to prevent manual actuation. Symptoms of this switch failing is generally going to be the washer will fill with water, then do nothing. Before replacing this switch, ensure the two screws securing the lid to the left hinge are tight because if either screw is loose, the switch will not be actuated properly.

Whirlpool Oven sparking

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Sat, 10 Mar 2012 08:01:00 +0000

Model #RF378LXKQ0, this freestanding electric range had been working just fine, but the last time the customer went to use the oven, what was described as a series of sparks could be seen from behind the control panel. Oddly enough, the circuit breaker never tripped, but the light show was enough to get the customer to cut the power to the range and call for service.

For obvious reasons, we don't like to see random bits of electricity arcing in or near our appliances and if you are unfortunate enough to have this happen, it's best to shut off the power and seek qualified help. Electric ranges use 240 volts AC that is made up of two separate 120 volt AC circuits. These circuits connect to the appliance at the terminal block which is a connection point for the various circuits within the range including the oven and cooktop elements.

Because of the number of connections inside the typical range at each of the elements along with the control infinite switches, the most common reason for a spark show is a loose wire that is now contacting something metal that it shouldn't be touching. This can be another wire, or since most ranges are made of metal, the chassis itself. Normally, a good working circuit breaking will trip once this contact has been made, but some are more resilient than others leaving the user possibly exposed to getting shocked simply by touching the range. These are simply words of caution as getting shocked has very little fun potential.

With the power off to the range, yes I checked, I removed the rear access panel which will give a good look at the wiring connections on the back of this range. Once removed, the tell tale signs of a live wire touching the housing could be seen along the back of the range. This arc welding had not only caused some burn marks, but the end of the wire was actually stuck to the back panel as a demonstration of how much heat can be generated using electricity. But the failure wasn't as simple as a connector that had come loose. Looking at the end of the broil element shows a missing terminal and evidence the insulation around the connector had been exposed to excessive heat.

It appears the end of the element had been getting hot and eventually the terminal broke loose from the element. Once free, the next time the customer went to use the oven, current began to flow through the wire and created sparks as it contacted the back of the oven until coming to rest in it final location. Here it continued to arc until it melted to the back panel. The good news was other than a broil element, nothing else had failed.

A new broil element was replaced and the wire connector securely attached to the terminal connector on the element. Power was turned back on to the range and a quick test showed it was working just fine.

Presented by - All Tech Appliance Service, your Portland Oregon appliance repair company. We service many brands of refrigerators, washers, dryers, ranges, dishwashers, freezers, ovens and microwaves including popular brands like Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Frigidaire, Amana, GE, Jenn Air, Ikea, Sears, Estate, Roper, Electrolux, KitchenAid, Fisher & Paykel and more. Visit us online at AllTechAppliance.com

308180 - Bake Element

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Thu, 08 Mar 2012 08:01:00 +0000

Click on Photo for pricing and availabilityPowered by AppliancePartsPros

This is a bake element and the symptoms will be no heat during the bake cycle. Always turn off power to the range prior to removing and testing for continuity. If the element reads as an open circuit, then it needs to be replaced. 2600Watt, 240Volt, Size: Width 16-5/8"; Length 15-3/4"; Mount bracket to terminals 3"; Space between terminals 1-3/4".

330031 - Top Element Receptacle Kit

noreply@blogger.com (TechnicianBrian) — Tue, 06 Mar 2012 08:01:00 +0000

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Includes plastic receptacle block, two different metal brackets to match your old one, two hi-temp wire leads, two wire nuts, two screws, and two heat shrink insulators. Very common receptacle, fits most stoves.