The Team

Photography / Soon Tong
Designer & Creative Direction / Ashburn Eng
Graphic Artist / Yong Yi ( www.yongyidesign.com )
Make-up and Hair / Chris Ruth (MUSE b’ART)
Model  / Anastasia Kolganova ( Upfront Models )

For young&restless’ Spring/Summer 2011 collection, Ashburn Eng’s inspiration came about as he looked through the eyes of a Flying Squirrel moving through the route of constant escapism and gliding through the air of the cityscape. Follow his vision of the small creature with our exclusive Test Shoot Gallery interview!
By Luth Seah Zhiqiang

TSG: What does escapism mean to you?

To own a pair of wings which takes you wherever you want to go.

TSG: How do you describe your aesthetics that you apply to your designs?

I have always been intrigued by the amount of discomfort dedicated followers of fashion are willing to put up with. From tight corset dresses to painfully heighted heels, suffering in style remains in fashion. I go through a lot of thought processes and strongly believe in applying my core strengths to my designs and at the same time, I feel that the wearer should also play a vital role of putting the looks together.

TSG: Any individual/celebrity/socialite in your mind that will suit “The Flying Squirrel” collection perfectly?

Locally, it will have to be Zhou Ying and Rebecca Lim. Internationally, I would think of Angela Zhang, Li Bing Bing and Zhou Xun. 

TSG: Despite the construction (based on basic shapes) of the pieces in the collection, you were able to visualise the draping results when worn on the body even during the initial stage of the production. Is “visualizing the result” a recurring skill that you equip yourself with every time you style/design/creative direct in your works?  How well Did it help you?

It definitely makes the production process (e.g. drafting pattern and sewing up the samples) much easier if you clearly understand the subject you are working on dimensionally. It also helps to avoid unnecessary wastage of materials, money and time. 

TSG:  Does freedom always mean happiness?

Yes and No. Being chained and bonded can mean pleasure to some people as well.

TSG: Does timeless always mean banality?

Something so beautiful, important, so revolutionary, so life changing, so inspirational, so true, so meaningful that it transcends the confinement of time.

TSG: Does trendy always mean unoriginality?

There is always a chance that seasonal musing can become timeless in the future.

TSG: Does fashion-forward always mean excitement?

Fashion-forward is more like guilty pleasure.

TSG: Has empowering the wearer of your works an all-time goal for you? Why?

Power dressing is not always necessary. I like the idea of the wearer being able to fantasise themselves on escapism, like a non-earth bound creature with a desire to escape from reality.

TSG: If not in fashion, where will you most probably be now?

I would have been an innovater. Like fashion, it provides an outlet for this endless pursuit of unconventionality.

Stockists  

With five collections under her label “Demisemiquaver” since spring/summer 2007, Teo Ying Hui continues to leave local fashion enthusiasts intrigued with the transcendental yet conceptual design inspirations from her latest “Black Hole” collection. Find out how the label was formulated, the process behind the development of each collection, and let yourself fall into the “Black Hole” in our exclusive interview with the designer herself. By Luth Seah Zhiqiang

Photography / Soon Tong
Fashion Direction / Ashburn Eng
Make-up / Mav Chang
Hair /  Annie Tay
Model / Nastya Kolganova & Vilma P (Upfront Models) 
Text / Luth Seah Zhiqiang
Milliner / Frederick Lee
 

 
Local veteran couturier Frederick Lee established himself as a household name by creating costume pieces for countless of notable local events; from the National Day Parade to the recent Youth Olympics Games. In addition being an extraordinary bridal and evening gown designer, not many know that he is an outstanding milliner as well! Test Shoot Gallery is honoured to present a series of one-of-a-kind millinery works that Frederick Lee produced specially for our shoot! Along with this amazing opportunity to admire Frederick’s work, we bring you an exclusive interview with the man as well. By Luth Seah Zhiqiang 

Personally, I find it beautiful when mundane materials maneuvered with the proficient and perfect skills of haute couture to become unequivocally beautiful garments. Even from a young age, I knew I wanted to be a couturier. 

TSG: How would you describe your design aesthetic?

Rather than to worry about finding the next best-selling commercial designs, I prefer to create clothes that reflect different moments or dreams. I believe in individuality and diversity. I create and ignore the conventional, avoiding the rituals of seasonal demands. Wearing a Frederick Lee’s couture piece will bring together extravagance, glamour, wit and originality. I make clothes for the feminine, confident, and seductive woman who is enchanted by bold new ideas; A women who never has a dull moment in her life.

TSG: What, or who inspires you and influences your work the most? (e.g, the revolutionary cuts that highlights the femininity of the body in your work?)

There are many great fashion designers that have inspired and influenced my work. Top of my list is Spanish-born french couture designer, the late Cristobal Balenciaga, who was credited as the one who changed the silhouette of womenswear. Balenciaga was revered as a couturier of couturier who created astonishment with his collections and the mastery of his cuts. I respect that kind of integrity and his creative ideals.

TSG: What do you like most about the age we live in?

In the age we are living now, everything is possible. We’re constantly exposed to stories about people who become stars over night. So there’s a high possibility that everyone will be famous at least for 15 minutes in your lifetime.  However, because of that, many people lost their sense of reality. They lack personality and imagination in living their lives.

TSG:  What is the quality that makes your hats come to life?

The traditional characteristics of a good hat are wit and style. They are hard to achieve as wit can easily be reduced to vulgarity and attempts at style frequently result in meaningless extravagance. I realise that only by breaking the rules can highly imaginative, stylish hats be created. What gives my hats indefinable but immediately recognized spirit is “control”. 

No element is allow to overrun the others in the overall design. Shapes, trim, and lines are all given equal consideration in order to produce millinery that is deceptively unique and memorable.

TSG: Would you identify yourself as a conceptual or romantic designer?

The definition of conceptual design is subjective. I believe that conceptual designing comprises the creation of an idea, the exploration of the intentions of that idea, and the representation of it. Thus, I guess I’m a conceptual designer!

TSG: Besides designing for your own evening wear and bridal lines, you work as the director of costumier for large-scale events such as the Singapore National Day, Youth Olympic Games & many other theatre productions as well. How do you manage your working process to fit the time-line? Would you consider yourself as a workaholic?

We have all experienced that appalling sense of having far too much work to do but too little time to do it in.  We can choose to ignore this, and continue to work unreasonably long hours to stay on top of our workload. The alternative is to work more intelligently by focusing on the things that are more important. While this may seem obvious, in the hurly-burly of a new, fast-moving, high-pressure role, there’s often times where something can be overlooked easily. 

Prioritizing helps me to get the greatest return from the work I do, and keep my workload under control. Although the term “workaholic” usually has a negative connotation, it is sometimes used by people who wish to express their devotion to one’s career in positive terms an I’m one of them.

TSG: What are the difficulties faced being a designer today?

To become a fashion designer one must be willing to work hard and handle rejection. Rejections are unavoidable in this industry; it’s perseverance despite the rejection that is more crucial.Though the fashion industry can be exciting and alluring to some, it might be a different story behind the scenes. I like how TV shows like Project Runway gives a realistic depiction of the type of criticism you can expect. The main problems most designers have are  missing connection to their potential customer base ; missing exposure and a downward spiral of low volumes. If you don’t have enough customers, you won’t be able to sell and
produce enough pieces. Industry manufacturers will then be less interested in working with you and you might end up working with far more expensive tailorshops. High production costs lead to horrible selling prices and low customer conversion. As a result you receive more rejections from boutiques to stock your products.

TSG: What does the term beauty mean to you?

Beauty to me is feeling good about yourself, as well as enjoying the pleasure and joy that life gives you; A smile, a nice twinkle of ones eyes, a fragrant body, a nice clean outfit. Beauty is when you know you can go anywhere in life having the right clothes, or even the wrong clothes worn in the right way.

TSG: How important is it for a celebrity to wear one of your dresses, from a business point of view?

Although fashion designers can achieve celebrity status on their own, the designers often seek assistance from celebrities in other industries to help launch their labels.

As a fashion designer, the goal is to have the celebrity wear your pieces when they are captured on film and on the red carpet. Keep in mind that the images taken will often end up in a magazine, newspaper, or on television. Either way, this will help publicize the designers brand. In addition to having movie stars and pro athletes wear designer fashion on a daily basis, it is equally or more important to have glamorous celebrities appear in your designs at fashion week events. To be a successful designer, you can not simply put on a fabulous cat walk display of beautiful models and stylish accessories. It is very important to have the room full of photographers, fashion editors and celebrities.

TSG: What has been your best career or fashion moment so far?

One of my fashion moments will have to be able to create the costumes for the Opening and Closing Ceremonies of the inaugural Youth Olympic Games Singapore 2010. I was challenged and inspired to create new costumes for the international event that inspires global unity and national pride; an event that celebrates youth in sports, as well as marking a new chapter in Olympic sporting history.

I’m still waiting for that fashion moment because everyday is still a learning experience. In fact, I believe my best work will be when im 60!

TSG: Do you think haute couture will keep on existing in future?

Today, the haute couture is neither haughty nor supernatuated, it is an aesthetic essay in which cherished and extraordinary skills are practiced. It remains a discipline of ultimate imagination, unaccountable to cost, with the paradox of being the fashion most cognizant of its ideal clients. It is a dream for quality in an era of industry and its succession.

I still strongly feels that Couture persists in providing us with a paragon of the most beautiful clothing that can be envisioned and made in any time.

A seductive, confident, glamourous and feminine women. Fashionable, yet not trendy. She understands what kinds of clothes suits her body.

TSG: Besides platforms like Singapore Fashion Festival to create awareness, what kind of support do you feel home grown labels need?

In the words of Vivienne Westwood, “Fashion is very important, It is life-enhancing and, like everything that gives pleasure, it is worth doing well”.

Indeed, the undercurrents of Westwood’s  philosophy holds true for Singapore as well. The Singapore Fashion Scene has not just arrived ; it has arrived unbelievably well in the past few  years. The Singapore Fashion Week (SFW) and Singapore Fashion Festival (SFF) not only have launched many young and budding designers, they are also the most supportive and friendly platform that enable designers to have complete exposure to the media, domestic and international buyers.

Both SFW and SFF – with active  participation from fashion designers, fashion houses, jeweler, models and sponsors – have generated a lot of interest and optimism in the local fashion industry. With the platform getting bigger and better, no one’s complaining.

Frederick Lee  is located at No.2 Jalan Klapa, Singapore 193314 Tel: +65 6323 4372

The Team

Photography / Soon Tong
Fashion Direction / Ashburn Eng
Make-up / Larry Yeo using Clinique
Hair / Alvin Foh @ Ritz Hair Salon using Loreta
Styling Assistant / Shanna Matthew
Clothes / max.tan and young&restless
Models: Natalie W and Silvia K (Upfront Models)

Oh sister,
where are we?
Wrapped in darkness,
shrouded in uncertainty.
 
We see each other,
we will bring out each other’s light.
We have each other,
and we will have that strength.
 
For all that can impale us,
For all that can bring us down,
Nothing can break the bond,
For we are sisters.

It might be a year full of dismal news on environmental issues, political unrest and worldwide misfortunes. It is time to finish it off with a well-deserved Christmas break and anticipate only the very best for the coming year. Test Shoot Gallery would like to wish all our readers and supporters a joyous Christmas and a fabulous New Year!

The Team

Photography / Soon Tong
Fashion Direction / Ashburn Eng
Hair & Make-up / Mav Chang
Model / Nastya S (Upfront Models) 
Text / Luth Seah Zhiqiang
Outfits By / Mae Pang

Perhaps we all knew, maybe we just playing mute.
Don’t look at me awaiting for any ideas on what to do.
My rays of sparkles set to confuse,
To light up with fun so I can share with you.
Because we are letting ourselves go this festive period,
Set free, carefree and nothing to lose.

A stroll down the streets of Singapore, what change you notice besides the renewing skyline? Evidently obvious is how much more adventurous the fashion enthusiasts are in their style choices. Layering are embraced and silhouettes are experimented. From the sleek to the draped, from the minimalist to the flamboyant, a whole week with these stylish strangers is anything but boring! Label Cloak & Dagger caters to the stylish gentlemen of our city. Read more on how designer JR Chan illustrates her idea of “collapse of stereotypes”, her design aesthetics, and all things you need to know for the debut collection of Cloak & Dagger in our exclusive interview! By Luth Seah Zhiqiang

TSG: Cloak&Dagger hints at mystery or espionage, while Hide&Seek suggest good things well-hidden and tucked away in places that are really difficult to find.

A play on the words of the co-relation of the sister labels.

TSG:  Can you tell us your starting point and inspirations for your debut collection?

My debut collection pays homage to traditional men’s wear. It is a collection that questions fixed notions of masculinity, giving rise to the idea of a “slip” that adds new possibilities to clothing for men, and provides an alternative line for women. I played with silhouettes that can be worn multiple ways, making it more experimental for women as well.
  

TSG:  Cloak&Dagger’s unchanging theme is the “collapse of stereotypes.” We want to offer something different, something that incoporates Asian designs. Who are you making fashion for?

 For the cosmopolitan career woman who wears both international and local designers when they travel.

TSG:  How would you describe your style to someone who doesn’t know your work?

I like structured and smart tailoring embodied with unconventional and unexpected details.
The label is also known for its Asian cut for men.

TSG:  How would you describe your design aesthetic?

I place priority on the balance of body proportions and the color scheme.. I simplify as much as possible, and explore the different placements of the details. I aim for a playful yet balanced aesthetic.

TSG:  Let us talk about silhouettes. You work with a lot of non-Western styles, like voluminous silhouette, cowl-neck shirts and harem pants, which are notoriously difficult to get men into. What’s the thinking behind that?

I am inspired by the streets of Daikanyama in Japan where people put in effort in what they wear and are all distinctively different from one another in their dressing style. I also love the way people dress in Berlin! They don’t overdress but manage to look very smart and chic. The collection’s silhouettes is a fusion of the east and the west. I want to take daily items from a men’s wardrobe and break down their traditional look, meanwhile making sure that they can still be put together in a different way. It is about providing an alternative to individual style.

TSG: What inspires you and influences your work?

People. Someone once said that “Fashion is all about lifestyle”. I feel that it is true. The weather, technology, lust, moods, the way we spend time and what the world is dressing for.

TSG:  What do you most like and dislike about the age we live in?

I like the fact that we are more experimental with fashion, but I have issues with global warming since the weather has gone mad.

TSG: Your designs won you a sort of local celebrity fanbase that includes Andi Chen Bang Jun, Christopher Lee, Dawn Yeoh, Jun, Jeanette Aw, Joi Chua, JJ Lin Jun Jie, Lawrence Wong, and Nat Ho, how do you feel about it?

I am thankful for their support. They are amazingly nice and humble people. It motivates me to work harder when a celebrity choses to wear a local label over  an international label for events.

TSG: Besides platforms like Singapore Fashion Festival to create awareness,what kind of support do you feel home grown labels need?

Support from a good mentor who is a veteran in this industry. We need to be humble all the time and learn, not only from our seniors but also from our juniors. When we stop listening, we stop growing.

TSG: What are your coming plans for Cloak&Dagger?

Cloak&Dagger is ready to expand. We intend to bring the label to more conceptual and retail spaces.
I want to establish the business in Singapore in the coming year before moving overseas.

Stockist 

Debuting in 2006, Singaporean accessories label Vice & Vanity constantly brings you quirky and whimsical pieces using an eclectic mix of textures, materials and colours that have captured the hearts of women. Aaron Kao & Vivi Lim, founders and designers of the label are two of the most recognisable names in local fashion scene. Here at TSG we find out about the self taught and almost accidental design duo behind this ever-growing brand. Over the years, they have collaborated with fashion labels that include Alldressedup, Baylene and Nicholas. Read and enjoy as the Duo share how they discovered their interest in accessories design, and all things that is VV in our exclusive interview! By Luth Seah Zhiqiang

TSG: Share with us the chemistry of working as a duo, and what are your roles behind the teamwork?

We have the advantage of excellent chemistry between us and our ideas compliment each other. We don’t appoint fixed roles as we are both very involved every step of the way, and with this synergy we also keep a look out for each other in the work process.

TSG: How did you two met each other, and share with us how was the formation of Vice & Vanity initiated?

We met through a common friend and became a couple before the label was created. We had our day jobs then and were making accessories for creativity expression and friends. Soon a friend who opened a boutique invited us to design a small collection for sale. It did well and it great from there.

TSG: What do you most like about the age we live in?

Technology

TSG: Could you describe how were the accessories made? What is your production process like?

We started with the colours exploration, followed by a period of sketching and prototype making. Currently we are on the most part self sufficient and the designs are hand made with a certain degree of machined assistance. We like to keep it part artisanal and part guerrilla industrialization.

TSG: The materials and form applied to your accessories seems to be unconventional, are there any ideology behind them? How did you source them out?

Frankly I would say we do not possess conventional skills. We do not start with any idealogy. It generally all came together with exploration of designs.

TSG: Aaron- You were from a fine arts background, what made you switch to accessories design, and why?

I have never switched. It is another medium that I found interesting and accessible to connect with a wider audience. Much more than I can with a painting. On the surface it seems like I have abandoned my roots but I disagree. It is still the same creative expression, and of course I would definitely paint again if I had the time and space!

TSG: What made you both decide to get into fashion? Have you always been interested in it?

Like we mentioned it was all by chances.
We have a love-hate relationship with fashion.
We would like to see our work in the broader sense of design eventually, rather than just being a fashion label. Most importantly we want to maintain the fun element while designing.

TSG: Where does the label’s name come from?

It came from a song and was recommanded by a friend. We thought it was appropriate.

TSG: Besides platforms like Singapore Fashion Festival to create awareness, what kind of support do you feel home grown labels need?

Everyone will have differing opinions on what that support should be. We feel it is most important to have a good product. A good product will generate awareness by itself. Home grown labels have to carve out their own groove to be as self sufficient as they can before expecting any support. Or it will be frustrating when that support fails to deliver any result.

TSG: What is your biggest vice?

We all have our dark secrets……don’t we? Sshhhhhh…

Stockists  

Vice & Vanity Studio 4B Smith Street Singapore 059818 (by appointment only)
Inhabit @ Mandarin Gallery, #02-16, 33A ORCHARD ROAD, Singapore 23897
Nicholas @ Marina Square, #02-323, 6 Boulevard, Singapore 039594
Hide & Seek @ 176 Telok Ayer Street, Singapore 068624

Link 

http://www.vicevanity.com/

Your wrath lashes out and belted at me in its flow,
It is all too familiar but you never hold back.
I writhe in your accusations and take in all the pain,
Embracing it all like it has been my fault.
Permitting the batter as it blankets me,
Allowing the torment to seep out like Ectoplasm.

The Team

Photography / Soon Tong
Fashion Direction / Ashburn Eng
Hair & Make-up / Chris Ruth (Muse b’Art)
Model / Marana B & Jana K (Upfront Models) 
Text / Luth Seah Zhiqiang
Styling Assistance & Outfits By / Shanna Matthew
Location / Courtesy of Singapore Sports Council

Special thanks to Clifford Loh from SCYA for the lovely mention.
Please click HERE to read the complete article online.