Some dismiss him as an eccentric. To others, he is style by depth. Glenn Gould 1932 – 1982.

Collage: The Journal of Style

The waistcoat for evening dress was black during late 19th Century. Thereafter, a white version took over. It had long downward-sloping  points.

In the 1920s the Duke of Windsor and other Savile Row customers made a waistcoat with blunted points popular. Nowadays, most connoisseurs will consider the Windsor waistcoat to exhibit the proper style.

On the photo above from 1920, Danish crown prince Frederik wears an old-fashioned waistcoat with longer points. Polar explorer Knud Rasmussen on the right is in a more classic(!) waistcoat with shorter points.

Photo: The Royal Library

“The rules of society require that to a certain extent we should adopt those forms of dress which are in common use, but our own judgement should be excercised in adapting these forms to our individual proportions, complexions, ages and stations in society.”

[The West-End Gazette, July, 1870]

Photo: The Journal of Style

Soft tailoring is a popular term among bespoke aficionados but not very exact. If I should try to nail it, I would name two qualities: interlining and seams.

In a softly made jacket like the one above, you will find linen interlining but no horsehair or similar stiff material. You will also discover that the garment’s pieces are attached in flexible seams, most notably where shoulder and sleeve meet.

“Drape” in the outer chest and shoulder blades of the jacket is often associated with soft tailoring. However, we’ve seen many jackets combining strong built up shoulders and drape, especially in the 1930s and 1940s. Add to that many softly made form-fitting jackets and body coats in the 19th century with no drape whatsoever.

That said, soft tailoring and drape are related aesthetically and functionally. Both are about ease.

Photos: The Journal of Style

Handmade suit, untipped wool tie, end-on-end dress shirt and French handkerchief.

Photo/Source: The Journal of Style

Seven years ago I spent a month of holliday in Sicily. During the visit I dropped by two tailors in Catania and Siracusa. I was tempted to place an order but I abandoned it. I felt it was too complicated with trials and so on.

A little later, I read about “Sartorial Vacation” in Siciliy at The London Lounge forum. It is a concept developed by Michael Alden, the owner of The London Lounge. He helps arranging the trip to Sicily, and then takes you through the bespoke process at his local tailor.

It made me think that maybe I should have been more aware of the sartorial possibilities on the southern island. Sleevehead’s new excellent guide to Sicilian tailors confirms that I missed something. Sleevehead takes us to ten bespoke tailors in Palermo, Catania and Messina telling about their work, methods and history. He also places an order with five of them showing the final result. Moreover, he lists hotels, transport and prices, which must be about the lowest in Europe for a bespoke handmade suit, with the exception of a few tailors in the old Eastern Europe countries. Some Sicilian tailors only charge a 1000 Euro for a suit, if you bring the cloth yourself.

So, why don’t we all travel to Sicily for bespoke suits, when we can have such great value for money?

As Sleevehead tells us, buying a bespoke suit from a small tailor in Sicily is an exploration, even with his guide. The independent Sicilian tailor most likely doesn’t speak English, and he will have his own ideas about style, primarily within soft tailoring, a narrow cut and low rise trousers, which we should be ready to accept more or less, at least for the first one or two orders.

I feel encouraged by a situation like that myself, but it is arguably safer to order a suit from tailors like Rubinacci or Caraceni on the mainland, or from Michael Alden and his Sicilian tailor, who follow the English cut. I believe Michael Alden and his tailor charge 3.000-3.500 Euro for a two-piece suit.

Take your pick.

Buy Sleevehead’s Guide to Sicilian Tailors.

Photo: The Journal of Style, Sicily

The most famous businessman in Denmark, Mærsk Mc-Kinney Møller, has passed away. He reached 98. Since the 1960s, after the death of his father, Mærsk Mc-Kinney Møller built the world’s largest shipping firm and added several other substantial activities to the group.

Mærsk Mc-Kinney Møller cared for quality in all aspects of life. It included his wardrobe. He had handmade shoes from John Lobb in London, and he went to a tailor to have his clothes made up, mostly navy blue three-piece suits.

Four years ago, I got hold of very specific information about, who his tailors were, cf. the labels above. Everyone will know Huntsman on Savile Row. But, who is Alfred Alm?

Alm was the most celebrated bespoke tailor in Denmark after the second world war. Few will know Alm today after the extinction of bespoke tailoring in Denmark, but remaining retired tailors and older people in the trade will still speak highly about him. Alm closed his business around 1990 and died shortly after.

Among more peculiar style features, Alm usually cut an unpadded shoulder and was capable of making a distinct subtle waterfall effect at the point, where upper sleeve meets the shoulder.

Mærsk Mc-Kinney Møller had to go to Alm for suits.

Illustration/Source: The Journal of Style

As usual our Italian neckties were delayed. But, it doesn’t matter. Now they are here. This is not the fast lane. We do slow fashion, very slow fashion. The ties are made to be a joy for years.

Have a look at the new arrivals …

… and don’t forget to check out our latest batch of Simonnot-Godard shirting.

Brain scientist and entertainer Peter Lund Madsen has several suits from Peter Undén on Frederiksberg in Copenhagen. This time we decided to add a few changes to the old pattern like making the back a little wider and the pleats a tad deeper. It is not about the fit, really, but a slight style improvement. The cloth is a classic worsted glen plaid from Dugdale.

Photos/Source: The Journal of Style

I stopped by a small bespoke tailor shop in Copenhagen. It is run by Gisle Larsen. He took over the shop two and a half years ago from Tobias Enk, who wanted to retire. Mr. Enk was almost 90 by then. A couple of months later, I heard that he had passed away.

Above, the new fine window of Gisle’s workshop. You may visit Gisle at www.skraedderiet.dk (in DANISH).

Below, Tobias Enk’s old, but charming shop as I saw it a week before he closed his business.

Photos/Source: The Journal of Style