Hey Gents,

Welcome to our latest Sunday Shop update, the “Getting Hitched in Hawaii” Edition.

In case you’ve missed the first couple editions, Sunday Shop is a new, (usually) bi-weekly update of the small business side of EG, as well as a chance for me to share any good deals I come across, products I think are worth a look, and site updates I feel you should know about.

Gettin’ Hitched + a special wedding week promo

I’ve got wedding on the brain, apparently, with the wedding-related articles, my own wedding coming up next week, and now this shop update.

Anyway, on to the juicy stuff you care about. In celebration of my wedding week, I’m offering a special promotion for all current EG products.

Get Graduating Your Style for $26 $21 … $5 off!

CLICK TO BUY (use coupon code HITCHEDGYS)

The Effortless Guide to Graduating Your Style is “the only guide you’ll need in order to take your wardrobe from Clueless Schlep to Grown Man, guaranteed.”

Over 1000 students have purchased the eGuide and improved their everyday style tremendously.

Here’s what a few happy students have to say:

“…Well done on the Graduating Your Style book. It’s great for helping you make your style more mature and grown up. I also like the minimalist style as I’m pretty minimalist myself. I’m only 18 years old but I’ve never really been into trends, never one to follow the crowd.” – David, UK

“The systematic order of information is really helpful to me as well as the fact that all basics are covered. I will use your guide as my main guideline for the next year while improving my wardrobe.” – Nils, Germany

“I love Graduating Your Style. It’s a step by step guide to looking good with minimal effort and minimal spending. It will save you countless hours and hundreds of dollars trying to figure out how to look good on your own.” – Ryan, CA, USA

Ends 6/16, take $5 off your purchase of GYS (using coupon code HITCHEDGYS).

Get Dressing Like a Grownup for $7 $5 … $2 off!

CLICK TO BUY (use coupon code HITCHEDDLAG)

Dressing Like a Grownup is the perfect starter kit for the young man looking to improve his style on a limited budget.

The two biggest roadblocks to style improvement are usually cost and know-how. Fancy men’s magazines tell you that in order to look well put together, you have to purchase expensive, designer clothing. I call BS!

DLAG will help you look great, respect your budget, and provide you with affordable and good-looking options.

On top of that, I’ve established a special web page for DLAG students only. You’ll find extra resources and updated links to products and stores I recommend within DLAG.

Until 6/16, take $2 off your purchase of DLAG (using coupon code HITCHEDDLAG).

Need Your Feedback: EG’s exclusive membership site

As much as I enjoy writing eGuides, I’ve always had this itch to create something bigger… something that evolves, allows me to help more people, and that will eventually benefit style students of all levels, from beginners to more intermediate and advanced guys.

At the same time, I wanted this thing to have a life of its own, where its members can have a direct influence on its growth and direction. I also wanted it to be an agent of change, where members eagerly welcome and take on regular challenges to continually improve their outward appearance, and naturally as an extension, their confidence and self-assuredness.

Lastly, I wanted this thing to foster community. I think EG has a great community of like-minded guys and gals behind it, but up until now, it’s mostly been a one-way street: I write articles, and you folks comment. There isn’t much communication among each other, the EG readers.

Interaction with other community members is important! It allows us to create bonds and relationships, and ultimately gives us the opportunity to help and motivate each other.

So, that’s all I’m saying for now. And don’t worry, I’ll provide more info soon, but for now I need you to…

Leave a comment and let me know:

If you were a part of this EG membership site, what aspects of style would you hope to get a better grasp on, in a very detail-oriented and specific manner? Also, what features do you hope to see?

Be as detailed and specific as possible Leave your thoughts in the comments below.

Just to recap:

• Until 6/16, take $5 off GYS (coupon code HITCHEDGYS)
• Until 6/16, take $2 off DLAG (coupon code HITCHEDDLAG)
• Leave a comment and let me know what you hope to learn, and what features you’d like to see, in EG’s membership site

I have some exciting stuff lined up for EG in the next few weeks, so be on the lookout!

Hey Gents,

Let me ask you a question. How often does a man get a chance to wear a tuxedo?

Unless you’re Jack Donaghy, probably not very often.

I’m within that age range where many of my friends are getting engaged and married. In fact, I’m getting married myself (next week!), and when K and I started hardcore planning a few months ago, there was no doubt in my mind I wanted to wear a tuxedo.

Since you’re an EG reader, I’m going to assume you enjoy dressing well and welcome the opportunity that formal events provide to do so

Keep it classic, minimize embarrassment

If you’re the one getting married, resist all temptation for a cutesy, clever wedding theme and just have one that’s simple and classic, with injections of you and your bride’s personality.

Sound familiar? That’s how I suggest you build your wardrobe as well… simple and classic, with small personal touches of color, pattern, and texture. Just keep it tasteful and minimal… same with your wedding theme.

Think about it: your wedding is the one day where it’s all about you (and your wife-to-be, of course). This is your moment, so why not keep it classy and formal?

You want to minimize embarrassment (notice I say minimize, not “avoid completely”, because that’s most likely impossible) as much as possible, because ten, twenty, thirty years from now, you want your photos to look classic, not trendy or corny.

I mean, take a good look at the photo above. Sure, in the 70s, guys had long, feathered hair… and yeah, the tuxedos are brown (which I actually think is pretty damn awesome), but imagine if they were black… it would be a straight-forward, classic look, wouldn’t you agree?

Don’t mistake formal for stuffy and boring. You can still get down on the dance floor while being impeccably dressed, and on your special day, you don’t want to look like anything but your very best.

Get on the same level as your wife-to-be

Here’s another reason to go the formal route for your wedding: Your lovely wife is going to look absolutely stunning in her dress. And you’re going to show up in, what… a tucked-in dress shirt and some khakis?

Why not look equally as dashing in a tuxedo?

Tropical isn’t an excuse for casual

I’m getting married in Hawaii, and so naturally when K and I started to plan, we Googled a bunch of stuff.

I came across numerous destination wedding photos similar to this one, where the groom and his groomsmen are in some form of casual island wear… for the wedding!

Tropical weather is indeed relaxing, but isn’t an excuse to relax your appearance, especially at your own wedding.

Keep it formal. Even if you’re exchanging vows in the sand, it doesn’t give you an excuse to wear baggy chinos and a billowy white untucked dress shirt with flip flops.

If you still want to keep it casual, make it the put-together sort of casual, not the sloppy, baggy casual.

Find clothes that fit, tuck in your shirt, and put on a tie and jacket, please… Even if it’s an unlined, unstructured linen version.

Pulling off the tuxedo, the right way

Okay, you’re convinced. Your wedding is a once-in-a-lifetime event and you want to go all out. Or perhaps you’re attending a friend’s Black Tie formal wedding. How exactly do you wear a tuxedo? Are there a different set of rules?

Well, yes, there are. I’ll let Black Lapel explain it to you in picture form, and Real Men Real Style has a great explanation of the finer details of Black Tie (both in video form and article form).

Here’s my short and sweet advice: Approach your tuxedo acquisition the same way you would a suit… go as classic as possible for maximum utility.

Since tuxedo options are relatively limited, the devil is in the details, namely fit and proportion. Same rules for fit apply to your tux as they would to a regular suit you purchase.

Tuxedo characteristics

A traditional tuxedo jacket has a single button closure, a shawl or peak lapel, a similarly-colored satin on the lapels, cloth-covered buttons, no vent (or a double vent), and jetted pockets (no flaps covering the opening).

Traditional tuxedo trousers should have no belt loops (either tab waistband or suspenders / braces), no cuffs, and sometimes, a similarly-colored satin stripe running down the outseam.

Traditionally, you want to wear a white shirt with a turndown collar, studs (instead of plastic buttons), and french cuffs with links that match the studs. Alternatively, you can wear a dress shirt with a covered placket (an extra strip of fabric that covers the buttons of your shirt).

You’ll also (again, traditionally) want to cover your waist, either with a cummerbund or a waistcoat (sort of like a vest, but meant for formal occasions / to be worn with tuxedos).

Finally, stick with a black bow tie and polished black oxford dress shoes to finish off the look.

Since you’re doing Black Tie formal, you want to stick to tradition as closely as possible. Do the best you can.

First, make sure it’s okay to wear one

You can’t just go around wearing a tuxedo all willy nilly. Make sure it’s appropriate to wear one at the event you’re attending!

Let’s assume we’re still talking about weddings. If you’re the groom, and it’s your wedding, and your wedding is Black Tie formal, you should wear a tux. If you’re simply an attendee at a wedding, and you’re certain the dress code is Black Tie formal (or Black Tie optional), you can wear a tux.

If you’re attending a wedding and you’re unsure of the dress code, if the dress code is anything but formal, or if you’re the groom and you’re having a non-formal wedding theme… then don’t wear a tux.

Makes sense, right?

Here’s a bit more general info about how to dress for formal events via Real Men Real Style.

How to buy a tuxedo, where to go, what to look for

Buying a tuxedo can be expensive. But, ironically enough, it can also be relatively affordable (Behold! The power of the Internet).

As far as pricing, you can go super high end, middle of the road, or budget.

Just like with regular suiting, you want to make sure you try the tuxedo on in person first. Nailing fit on off-the-rack suits purchased online is really, really difficult, unless you already know the brand’s sizing well.

Take it from me. I’ve ordered many blazers from unfamiliar brands online, and I’ve always had to return them, because the fit just isn’t right.

Another option is to do made-to-measure. There are several services out there for this. My particular favorite is Black Lapel; at the time, they had the exact tuxedo I wanted, which was a midnight navy color instead of traditional black.

Plus, I’ve known Warren (co-founder of Black Lapel) for a few years, and I was happy to try out his service since I haven’t yet had the chance to do so.

I’ll be sure to cover my experiences and final results with Black Lapel in a future article.

“Can’t I just rent my tux from (insert local tux rental shop here)?”

Put it this way: if renting is your only option, you’re better off having a black tie optional wedding and wearing a nicely tailored dark suit.

I would not recommend renting your tuxedo, unless the tux rental game has changed drastically since 2001 when I rented one for prom.

They typically come in a very traditional cut, and most likely, it will be of subpar quality and fit.

As you know, fit is everything, and this is the primary reason why I don’t recommend renting a tuxedo.

Most tux rental shops can only do minor (temporary) alterations such as pant length and sleeve length, but can’t touch pant width, lapel width, jacket boxiness, etc.

This article is about purchasing your first tuxedo. You’ll own it for life, and will pay for itself after a handful of uses. On top of that, it’s perfect for fancy formal nights out on the town, which you now have a reason to attend, since you own a perfectly fitting tux in your closet

When purchasing a tux (whether off-the-rack, made-to-measure, or full bespoke) you can control everything, and by reading EG regularly, you can do so capably and confidently.

Final thoughts

Internalize the traditions, rules, and alternatives of formalwear.

Rule of thumb: Keep it understated and classic. I know I often encourage you to make an outfit your own, but when it comes to formalwear, classic, understated, and as close to traditional as possible is always best.

Unlike regular suiting, I’m not encouraging you to go all out bending the rules. Throw in a small bit of irreverence if you like, but keep it minimal.

Are you ready to walk down that aisle?

Or maybe attend that formal wedding or event? Let’s hear about your upcoming plans below.

[tux photo and infographic via Black Lapel]

Hey gents,

I have a confession to make. Admittedly, I don’t know much about “fashion”.

I don’t follow menswear blogs or keep up with the latest on the runways of Pitti, Capsule, or New York Fashion Week.

I have a lot going on, and frankly, I’m not all that interested in the newest collections and the current season’s “must have” items.

Maybe you’re like me.

You like clothes, but you don’t like them enough to spend hours on Tumblr checking out pictures of well-dressed guys. (Minutes, maybe. But not hours.)

You shop with a purpose, but you don’t spend your whole paycheck on a jacket.

You may not care about the technical terms describing a pair of leather shoes, but you care enough to learn what looks good and what is considered a well-constructed shoe.

Good news!

You don’t need to be a menswear expert well-versed in the terminology and minutiae to put together a basic, good-looking outfit.

Check it. Eight tips to being the best-dressed man around…

This is pretty much all you need to know to dress well

Master fit and proportion

This is absolutely crucial. I’d argue this is the most important tip of all. Here’s the thing (and I’ve said it before), you could be decked out in the finest italian suit, but if you’re wearing the wrong size, you’re going to look terrible.

Conversely, you could buy an ultra affordable suit, take it to a tailor, and look like a million bucks.

Figuring out how clothes should fit can be quite a process, especially if you’re still in the beginning stages of reworking your style and building a leaner wardrobe. It takes patience and the willingness to try on lots of things.

Knowing your measurements is helpful as well. This article should get you started.

Understand your skin tone and choose colors that complement

In the beginning, keep it simple.

You want to find colors that contrast with your skin, not blend in and wash you out.

It’s hard to go completely wrong here, and by no means is this a set-in-stone type of guide, but this should get you started.

Again, don’t think of the above guide as a be-all and end-all resource; it’s merely a starting point from which to jump off, a place to start your experimentation.

Adopt a personal uniform

A personal uniform is a set of looks you can turn to when times are tough, like when you’re late for work and staring at your closet, unsure of what to put on.

There are plenty of benefits to figuring out your own personal uniform, namely, not needing to think too hard about what to wear in the morning.

But also, having a personal uniform lends itself nicely to the idea of a Lean Wardrobe.

By the way, “personal uniform” doesn’t necessarily mean one singular outfit, but a set of pieces that you can mix and match to create similar looks that are consistent, day in and day out.

This is my idea of the perfect uniform, some days with a tie, some days without. If I had to choose one outfit the rest of my life, it would look a little something like this.

Why? It’s not too casual, not too dressy, and it would be appropriate for the majority of social situations I find myself in, save for the most formal and casual events.

Know what your “thing” is

My “thing” is I like injecting color into my outfits in small doses. So, for example, a colorful watch strap, bright socks, a crazy pocket square, or a colorful bracelet.

Every person has his or her thing. Some people enjoy color, others like wearing gray chinos practically every day. Maybe some people out there prefer only brogues. Figure out your thing.

Trend-forward people may call that idea stodgy or boring, but I call it style. It’s like your signature. A signature style! These guys get it.

Experiment once in a while

Don’t be afraid to go out on a limb and experiment with new looks. This is where more fashion-forward type pieces can come into play. This is also how you evolve your own personal style.

Here’s an example: I like the idea of unstructured knit blazers. I don’t wear sweatshirts, but I like knits. So I figured a knit blazer would be perfect. It’s the comfort of a sweatshirt but in the silhouette of a tailored jacket. Perfect, right?

So a few weeks ago I was dragged into Forever 21 of all places, and in the interest of keeping myself entertained, I checked out the men’s section.

They happened to have a fitted knit blazer in a decent selection of colors for $30, so I thought hell, why not try it out?

Finding more affordable options for experimental pieces is the way to go when you’re trying new things.

A $30 knit blazer from F21 might not be comparable in build and quality to a $600 version from a high-end store, but it’ll be good enough, especially since I’m just experimenting and not sure if I’ll even enjoy wearing it.

On the other hand, something classic that you KNOW you’ll make use of time and time again through the years is something worth investing in (i.e. a single-breasted, double-vented, two button navy suit).

Understand how to accessorize

Don’t leave accessorizing to the ladies! They sure know how to dress, but accessorizing is one thing guys can learn a thing or two about.

There are a few places where it’s safe for guys to experiment and GFC (go F’ing crazy) with color and pattern: Socks, ties, pocket squares, belts, and sometimes shoe laces, jewelry, and leather goods (like wallets).

In fact, if you have a personal uniform with pretty basic colors, I encourage you to GFC with color and pattern. Why not?

Start with something simple (like a stripe) and learn how to incorporate more complex prints (like paisley) and colors (like eggplant, or chartreuse, or teal).

Know how to delay gratification

The real key to a Lean Wardrobe is knowing exactly what you need and how much use it will get.

Put off buying something for as long as possible. Tease yourself to see how much you really need something!

Here’s how: Get online and add stuff to your cart, and then X out the window. Or go to a store, pick up something you think you need, walk around for a bit, put the item back, and walk out of the store.

If you continue to think about that item for days or weeks after you put it down, there’s a good chance you truly want it. Only at that point should you consider it a serious contender worthy of your money and closet space.

When it comes to staples, buy the best quality you can afford

It might take you a while to realize your true wardrobe staples. It will take a bit of trial and error, and as you go through cycles of more affordable versions of things, you’ll start to realize what you wear most, and what’s worth investing in.

For me, it’s a good navy blazer (maybe even two: an unlined cotton one for summer, and a wool one for every other season), a good pair of denim, a few good oxford and sport shirts, and a few good pairs of leather shoes. That is pretty much all I ever wear.

As things wear out, I replace them with better versions.

When my cheaper brown lace-ups started dying on me years ago, I replaced them with higher-quality versions. As my cheaper blazers lose shape, I start to eye ones made better, making mental note of what to save my pennies for.

It’s all about observing what you wear, buying the best possible versions of those things when the time for replacement comes, and taking care of the new, better versions as much as possible.

What about replacing your staples with more affordable versions?

There’s a separate camp out there who thinks you should always buy the most affordable options of whatever you wear frequently, since you tend to wear them out and they have to be replaced anyway.

I can understand that point of view, but ultimately, it depends on your particular situation, and which staples you’re replacing.

If you love dark denim and wear them out frequently, but can’t bring yourself to spend $200 on a “premium” pair, I get it. Sometimes you have to pick and choose which pieces to invest in.

If it’s something you’ll wear and keep for years, I find it justifiable to invest a bit more money (i.e. a navy blazer, for me). Feel it out and see what fits your lifestyle (and wallet) best, and adjust as you go.

See? You don’t have to know everything

You don’t have to be some clothing expert, nor do you have to know designers’ names, upcoming trends, or all of a garment’s technical terms.

All you really need to understand are a few key points, and you’ll be miles ahead of your peers and colleagues who aren’t necessarily in the know.

Questions or other points you think may be helpful to other EG readers? Leave em in the comments below!

(Editor’s note: That’s a lot of S’s!)

Hey Gents,

Welcome to our second Sunday Shop update, the “Spending Summer in Shorts” edition.

In case you missed the first edition, Sunday Shop is a new, (usually) bi-weekly update of the small business side of EG, as well as a chance for me to share any good deals I come across, products I think are worth a look, and site updates I feel you should know about.

Been getting a lot of shorts-related questions lately, and considering it’s almost June, figured it would be an appropriate topic to address.

What to buy, what to avoid

Not all shorts are made equally. To be very brief and direct, avoid:

• Cargo shorts
• Baggy shorts
• Denim shorts
• Long shorts (or short pants, also known as floods, capris, or “manpris”)
• Pants that become shorts by unzipping at the knee
• Shorts with too much going on (ties or cinches at the leg opening, superfluous stitching and zippers, etc.)

If you’re a grown man focusing on a classic, lean wardrobe, the best style of shorts you can own are a basic flat-front, slim version that rests slightly above or right at your hip, and does not extend past your kneecap… in twill, chambray, madras, linen, etc.

Shorts I wear

Here are a few examples of the kinds of shorts I own and wear. Just a heads-up that some are affiliate links, so if you buy something, I may earn enough to buy a cup of coffee If you aren’t interested in supporting the site, you can always just do a Google search for these.

• J.Crew 9″ Stanton Shorts
• Target / Merona Flat-Front Twill Shorts
• Old Navy Slim-Fit Shorts
• J.Crew 9″ Club Shorts
• H&M Printed Shorts
• Gap Cotton Linen Shorts

A word on color and pattern

Go F’ing CRAZY with color and pattern (GFC! Let’s start a new acronym, because this site doesn’t have enough).

GFC with it! Bright colors, color blocking, stripes, prints, polka dots, hell yeah.

Seriously. It’s summer, it’s warm out, let the color in your shorts reflect the color and brightness around you, and (hopefully) the vibrance of your mood.

A word on length

If you’re shopping online, many models will list a specific inseam length (11″ inseam, 7″ inseam, etc.), but I can’t recommend an ideal inseam length, because everyone is built differently. You may have long legs and a short torso, or short legs and a long torso, and there’s no perfect length that will fit everyone.

Make sure the shorts hit you right above the kneecap (ideally), but no longer than the bottom of your kneecap. If you’re shorter (5’8″ and under), I’d stick to right above the kneecap, because longer shorts will make you appear even shorter.

These brands don’t exist in your area? These stores don’t ship to your country?

You don’t have to buy the exact shorts I share here. Go to your typical shopping spots, and make sure the pair of shorts you pick up have characteristics similar to what I’ve described and / or linked to above.

Enjoy!

That’s all for now. Hope this helps with your shorts shopping. Enjoy the warm weather while you can; summer seems to pass in the blink of an eye.

For more affordable options and brands (plus how to wear the great clothes you buy), check out Dressing Like a Grownup, the perfect eGuide for those on a small budget, both young and old.

(Editor’s Note: RSS / Email readers, have you been on the site lately? We’ve updated our look just a little. Hop on over and read this article on Effortless Gent)

Hey Gents,

Did you hear about the tragedy that happened in Bangladesh a few weeks ago? If not, read a bit about it here, and a more personalized account of it (and other similar events) here.

Pretty sad, right? Every article has varying numbers, but the final death toll is estimated to be more than one thousand people.

How often do we pay attention to where our stuff is made?

Probably not that much, if at all.

With clothing specifically, we walk into our stores, find stuff we like, buy it, and not really question its origin… kind of like how spoiled preteens think money comes from an ATM, not understanding the hard work mommy and daddy put in to earn it.

Clearly, we should be focusing on a Lean Wardrobe and buying fewer but better quality things. But for the younger EG reader, I’ve always preached the importance of fit over quality and brand.

When searching for good fit at the lowest possible price, you tend to overlook where that low-cost product was made, the conditions it was made in, or the overall cost of supporting a cycle that promotes disposable clothing over long-lasting quality.

“Why should I care?”

It’s easy to ignore the things that happen worldwide, or the costs associated with the cycle, simply because we’re so far detached from most of them.

But if you consider yourself a citizen of the world, it’s something you should at least consider, or keep in the back of your mind when you are shopping for clothing.

We, the consumers, aren’t fully responsible for events such as the Bangladesh factory tragedy or the countless other tragedies that have happened, but in a way, we played a part in it.

When we buy cheaply-made goods, we’re giving our money to companies that directly (or indirectly) use cheap labor overseas to make the cheaply-made goods we continue to buy. Not much thought goes into factory workers’ rights, working conditions, wages, or the environment.

The thing is, we, as consumers, don’t see any of this… at least not until some big horrific event occurs such as 1,127 people dying.

“But, but, I have no money… are you telling me to never buy affordable clothes?”

I’m not telling you what to do, I’m just attempting to make you aware.

The choices we make affect others, somewhere down the road. Through our transactions, we’re supporting an industry that, for the most part, doesn’t give a crap about the people who make their clothing. Sad, but true.

At the same time, we all can’t afford top-quality, locally made, premium garments all the time. Sometimes we just need a T-shirt from Hanes or Fruit of the Loom.

Being aware is better than being ignorant. If you don’t need that $5 polo shirt, then just hold out for next time. If you can spring for a better quality garment that you know was made sustainably, go for it.

Three ways to buy fewer, but better

Buy Quality

Quality product can be expensive, but it generally lasts longer and is usually made in better conditions.

That’s a very general statement, so you’d have to do your research into the specific brands you’re interested in. Stuff that’s made in the USA is pretty safe, since we have laws protecting workers, unions are in place, building codes are pretty rigid, etc.

Many large companies are also beginning to produce in the US (Club Monaco’s Made in USA section is a good example). Additionally, big companies that produce overseas—in light of the events in Bangladesh—are vowing to spend more for worker safety… we’ll see how that plays out.

Buying quality isn’t cheap, but with a bit of savings and delayed gratification, you can buy well-made garments with a clear conscience. Plus, if it’s something like a suit, a sport coat, or a good pair of denim, you’ll be using it for years. Take that into consideration when you’re purchasing something at a higher price point.

Buy second hand

I browse local thrift shops, eBay, and StyleForum all the time. So do these guys, and they all happen to be very, very well-dressed gents, all with their own unique sense of style.

Not only can you find top-quality garments at second hand shops, you can find the regular stuff too (Gap, Banana Republic, H&M, etc.) And even if it’s a company that’s notorious for their fast fashion practices, at least it’s not a garment straight from their store’s shelves.

Buy local / US made

Learn about those small upstarts making clothing locally / in the US, or with the best interests of the industry in mind. There are small companies making clothing locally in many cities, probably even one near you.

We make our clothing for Fifth&Brannan right here in San Francisco, a seven-minute train ride away from our home. Tanner Goods makes leather accessories in Portland. Imogene + Willie handcrafts denim in Nashville, Tennessee. Lumina Clothing makes their shirts in Chicago and South Carolina, and has a local store in North Carolina.

There are countless other little upstarts that care about the industry and those working within it. Support with your cash, and care a bit more about where your clothing comes from.

Even if you’re not from the US specifically, there are probably local creators near you. All it takes is a bit of research to see who these craftsmen are.

Last but not least…

Remember: Just do your best.

Your disposable income and the cost of goods will always play a part in your decision, no matter what. We can’t always purchase sustainable, high-quality, locally-made stuff, but when possible, do it.

Support good things by putting your money down for them.

I’m looking forward to hearing what you think about buying fewer, but better things, and holding out for something more costly but made with care.

Let’s hear it! Leave your thoughts below.

[photo, photo, photo]

(Editor’s note: Looking for Sportin’ In The Heat, part I? Here you go.)

Hey Gents,

Without a doubt, a khaki sport coat is the second most versatile jacket you could possibly own. Second only to a navy version, of course.

This is especially true in the warmer months, when you may want to wear lighter colors.

Navy’s great and all (and it’s pretty much always appropriate), but sometimes you just have to switch it up.

By the end of this article, you’ll know exactly what kind of jacket (or suit) to look for, where to find one, when to wear it, how to wear it, and what to wear it with.

Pretty straight-forward, right?

Here we go!

“Should I get a suit, or just a sport coat?”

That’s a good question. It totally depends on you and your needs. If you wear suits a majority of the week, have a few summer shindigs (parties, weddings, etc.) to attend, or just like the idea of owning a summer-appropriate suit, I’d pick up the suit.

That way, you’ll have it at your disposal when needed, and you can always break it up and wear them as separates.

If you don’t wear suits too often, don’t see yourself needing one in the near future, or are on a budget, just pick up a sport jacket.

“What kind of fabric is best?”

Typically, you’ll find khaki suits / sport jackets in a cotton or linen fabric. The key to a “cooler” experience, however, is to make sure the jacket is half-lined (lining half way down the back, fully lined in front panels), quarter-lined, or unlined.

custom unlined jacket from Beckett & Robb

Having a fully-lined cotton or linen jacket somewhat defeats the purpose. You want these layers to feel light and airy, but lining adds heft (especially if a jacket is lined with the same material) and can trap heat. If you don’t like the lightness of unlined, go with a half-lined or quarter-lined version. You’ll thank me later.

(If you’re interested in learning more about unlined vs. lined jackets, check out my friend Antonio’s video here)

“When can I wear my khaki sport coat?”

This jacket is more appropriate for daytime wear, or generally casual situations. Realistically though, you can take it from daytime to evening time (assuming you’re not going to a formal black tie event) and no one will bat an eye.

“Where do I find a khaki sport coat?”

Here’s what I do when I’m casually browsing for a potential new _____________ (fill in the blank: “Khaki sport coat”, “navy suit”, “striped socks”, etc.), I use a site called shopstyle.com. You can search for anything, and ShopStyle will show you numerous options across different brands and price points.

Here are a few examples: Men’s khaki sport coat , Men’s navy suit , Men’s striped socks

From there, you can filter down by brand, price, color, size, etc. all on the left side of your browser window.

Pretty nifty, right?

Specific ones I recommend:

Uniqlo’s Linen Cotton Jacket First mentioned it here, and also happens to be the one I used in my examples below. They come in many colors, fit well, need minimal alterations (assuming you’re more or less a normal shape), and is unlined… perfect for summer.

LLBean signature Warren Chino Blazer I have the Plain Weave Blazer in Navy, which is a three-button version with a decent 3/2 roll. If I were making the purchase again, I’d probably try the Warren.

Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald Fit Sport Coat A more pricey, yet classic option. If you go with Brooks Brothers, you’re guaranteed to have this one for quite a while (especially if you take care of it.) The Fitzgerald Fit is BB’s version of a more modern cut (narrower lapels, higher armholes) without skewing too trendy.

“What do I wear with my khaki suit or sport coat?”

Easy! Khaki is sort of like white or navy, it goes with pretty much everything.

The key word here is CONTRAST. The last thing I want you to do is wear a khaki sport coat with khaki pants and a khaki hat and khaki-colored shoes… and socks… and underwear. Terrible.

Take note: The one thing I advise against is pairing it with another khaki. Even if you think you found a perfect match for your sport coat (“Oh hey! Now I have a suit!”), you most likely did not. Matching two things that weren’t made together (unlike an actual suit) is tough to do.

Anyway, here are four examples to get you started.

Khaki suit (the formal option)

khaki suit (J.Crew) + light blue dress shirt (Fifth&Brannan) + navy knit tie (J.Crew Factory) + brown wingtips (Beckett Simonon)

If you’re attending a formal occasion, go with the suit option, and keep it simple. Light blue shirt, solid navy knit tie, brown wingtips. Super crisp and fresh.

I don’t cosign for black and white very often, but you could also do a white dress shirt, solid black knit tie, and black lace-ups, and if I saw you, I would give you a high five.

Casual option one

khaki sport coat (Uniqlo) + dark denim (Levi’s) + pink OCBD (Uniqlo) +desert boots (Clarks Desert Boots via Zappos)

Since khaki is neutral, you want to bump up the contrast in your outfit. Dark denim would look great on the bottom. The light pink Oxford cloth button down complements the dark denim as well as the neutral khaki, and the olive desert boots look good with everything individually, as well as the outfit as a whole.

Casual option two

khaki sport coat (Uniqlo) + white denim (Levi’s) + indigo chambray shirt (Lands’ End Canvas) + gray driving shoes (Lacoste)

White denim also contrasts with the neutral khaki here, but instead of going dark (like with the dark denim) you’re doing the complete opposite. The indigo chambray looks great with the white denim (if you took off the jacket), but also looks good underneath the jacket. The grey driving shoes have a nice contrasting pop of color with the natural leather tassels, and look good against the white denim.

Casual option three

khaki sport coat (Uniqlo) + colorful chinos (Dockers Alpha Khakis) + white OCBD (J.Crew) + lace ups (Allen Edmonds via Zappos)

The most “daring” outfit of the bunch, kinda. Really, it’s just the bright chinos, but other than that, the outfit is quite muted… and this works out great, because the brightness of the chino plus the muted colors of everything else balances out.

That’s another thing to remember: When it comes to major elements in your outfit, one bright pop of color, max.

Alrighty, kids!

That’s all I have for you today. Hopefully that gives you a bit more confidence if you were looking to add a khaki suit or sport jacket to your summer arsenal.

Questions, concerns, compliments? Would love to hear it in the comments below.

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Hey Gents,

Welcome to the first Sunday Shop update. I wanted to send this note from time to time; possibly every Sunday, though most likely every other Sunday or so.

I think these updates will be fun; they’ll be quick, informal peeks at the inner workings of EG, and the small business I’m building to support the rest of the site. In case you weren’t aware, there’s an actual human behind your screen, making sure everything is running smoothly

I’ll also use this time to let you know of any good deals I come across on the web, products I think are worth a look, and any site updates I feel you should know about.

Onward…

As you know, every article on this site is free. It takes hours to publish an article, from the actual topic selection, research, writing drafts, editing, finalizing, curating images, formatting for the web, to finally hitting publish… it’s quite a process.

It takes me hours because I try to provide as much value and knowledge as possible in each article. I could put out fluff three to five times a week, but what good would that do you? Not much, really.

I also have a small but growing selection of eGuides for sale. The flagship product, The Effortless Guide to Graduating Your Style, was my first release.

I worked very hard on it for months, and I’m super proud of it. Over one thousand people have bought it and loved it; I still receive emails weekly from readers who have made drastic changes in their style and wardrobe… good changes. That makes me happy.

The second eGuide, A Young Man’s Guide to Dressing Like a Grownup (Without Breaking the Bank) — DLAG for short — was written with the younger Gent in mind, though its principles and lessons could easily apply to men of any age.

Last day for the special deal

Since I released the second eGuide, I offered a special combination deal. For every new purchase of Graduating Your Style, I threw in DLAG for free… both eGuides for $26.

That promo has been running for a while now, and it’s time to retire it. Both products will still be available, just not together, and not for that special price.

I announced it on last Thursday’s Ask the Readers segment (the 96-hour countdown), but in case you missed it, today is the last day to pick up both eGuides for $26.

There’s more info about the combo, as well as each individual product, here: http://bit.ly/combodeal

Only take advantage of the deal if you think these products can help you; I wouldn’t want you to part with your hard-earned dollars if you feel you can’t learn anything from these guides.

That’s all for now

I have other news to share, but let’s save it for a future Sunday Shop update.

Until then, hope you’re having a great Mother’s Day with the special motherly figures in your life. Back to our regularly-scheduled programming next week.

Hey Gents,

The weather is starting to warm up (at least in my hemisphere), and hopefully the same goes for where you are.

Even if you’re on the opposite side of the world, there’s a good chance you’re experiencing a weather transition.

Today’s Ask the Readers question is: How are you transitioning your wardrobe to accommodate for the changing seasons?

• Are you picking up a few new items?
• How are you retiring / storing last season’s garments?
• Do you do a closet overhaul, or simply shove everything over and bring all the new stuff front and center?
• What’s your organization strategy?
• Are you applying any of the Lean Wardrobe principles we talk about in the book?

Let’s hear your plans in the comments below.

Last time, on Ask the Readers

We haven’t had an Ask the Readers segment in quite a while! The last one was from December 29, 2012, when I asked you guys what your two biggest resolutions were for the new year… one being a lifestyle change, and the other a wardrobe change.

Here are a few of your comments:

My style resolution? Be a source of positive change amongst my friends and coworkers…. My lifestyle resolution is, in broad strokes, do less stuff better. I get involved with way too many extracurricular projects that I don’t get to give them the proper attention they deserve… – crockeronline

…to live in the moment–to be present and take things in as they come, and to have more perspective along with that. …and stylistically… I want to continue to push myself to try new color combinations and take more chances with different looks, possible trends, etc. – Bo

Lifestyle – Stop making excuses and follow thru with educational/certification plans I’ve had for a couple of years. Style – Like Ryan, thrifting. And recreating. The idea is partially about finances, but more about cutting down on waste. – CJ

After being frustrated with dress and sport shirts not fitting properly and the amount of tailoring needed being kind of a hassle and a chunk of change I decided to stop buying those shirts from regular retail channels. In 2013 I will only buy shirts that are MTM. – Aaron Trent

Seems like you guys had some ambitious (though achievable) plans. How have those worked out for you, now that we’re almost halfway through the year?

Would love to hear how your year is going so far. Even if you didn’t answer the question last December, let me know what goals / resolutions you set for yourself in 2013, and how they’re going so far!

Lastly: The 96-Hour Notice: The Combo Deal is Ending SOON!

Just a quick heads-up that the special GYS + DLAG combo deal is ending soon. 96 HOURS soon!

That sounds like a long time, but it’s only four days. So Sunday, May 12 (Mother’s Day! Hi Mom) is the last day to take advantage of the GYS + DLAG Combo Deal.

“What the heck is a GYS + DLAG Combo Deal?!?”

Oh, sorry. Graduating Your Style (GYS for short) is EG’s first eGuide, and Dressing Like a Grownup (DLAG for short) is our second published eGuide, geared towards the younger, more budget-conscious Gent.

You can read a bit more about both, and purchase the combo deal here.

Don’t forget! You only have till Sunday, May 12th at 11:59pm Pacific, so don’t delay!

Till next time

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Sup Gents!

I’m excited to bring you the latest post in the Signature Style series.

I first discovered Anthony a year or two ago while browsing Tumblr. He puts together some great outfits and takes awesome photos. While some outfits may be considered too stylish (whatever that means), I believe he does a great job pairing classic and trendy pieces, safe with daring pieces, etc., while always nailing the fit.

Keep in mind that what fits on him may not fit on your body type, and vice versa. This is why it’s so important to focus on fit first, then quality and brand of your clothing later. I talk a lot about this in Dressing Like a Grownup.

Another thing Anthony does wonderfully is utilize this idea of high / low that we’ve discussed before. That could mean either pairing casual items with more formal items into one cohesive look (which he does), or it could mean putting together more affordable, everyday items with more expensive, luxe items (which he also does).

Considering that he puts into practice everything we discuss here on EG, it’s as if he’s the physical embodiment of EG in picture form! Because you know I don’t take many photos of myself. I’m mysterious like that.

Anthony was nice enough to provide some As for my Qs. Here we go!

Our QA

EG: In 3-5 words, describe your personal style.

CF: Never boring. Always something unexpected.

EG: Who or what influences / inspires your style the most, and why?

CF: I’m really influenced by people I see in my day to day life. When I was younger it would be my family and the way they dressed. Now it’s a lot of what I see people wearing on the streets of New York City. Most people in the city seem to be so effortlessly stylish so I’m drawn to their look.

It could be a certain color combo, layering idea, or standout shoe or accessory. I’m constantly inspired and getting ideas from my surroundings.

EG: What’s your favorite piece in your closet?

CF: My Gant Rugger High Roller jacket. I’ve never owned a top coat before and this one is perfect in all ways – slim fit, fur lining, and tons of style points with the fur collar.

EG: What’s one essential item of clothing every guy should own, and why?

CF: A perfect-fitting pair of dark denim. You can wear them with anything—dressed up with a blazer, or casual with a plain tee—and you can wear them year round.

EG: One piece of advice for those still trying to find their own personal style?

CF: Stick to the basics and stick to what fits well. There are so many more options for guys out there right now that it can be overwhelming for someone who wants to try and dress better and define a sense of personal style.

If you stick to some basics like a great pair of denim, some OCBD’s, a great blazer, and a pair of quality wingtips, you can’t go wrong. Experiment and build on these staples as you get more comfortable with your clothes.

BOOM.

But wait! I wanted to dig further, and see what Anthony thought about some of the things you and I wonder about all the time.

Things like, how can I change my style without getting the third degree from my buddies? Or, how can I look great if I have a small budget to work with?

Anthony knows what’s up. Read on.

EG: Lots of readers want to improve how they dress, but they’re afraid about what their friends, family, and coworkers might say. What do you do for work, and how does it affect your daily wardrobe choices? Any advice for guys concerned about such things?

CF: Style is very personal so not everyone might understand your personal choices in what you wear. But there are a few things that are pretty much universally acceptable when it comes to getting dressed properly.

Fit, for example, is probably the most important aspect of your clothing to consider. You want an article of clothing to fit your body type properly – not to loose or too tight but something that flatters you.

As far as improving the way you dress in so much as your color/pattern choices, or even how you layer or assemble pieces to create an outfit – don’t be afraid. The only way you will learn to know what you like or what looks good on yourself is to experiment.

Start out simply and really learn to be comfortable in your clothes. When you feel comfortable in what you’re wearing, you’ll look more confident.

Eventually, that confidence will grow and you’ll be surprised at the risks you’ll be able to take in improving your personal style.

As a full time engineer and part time blogger, I often have to deal with the conflict of being out on a job site by day, and then out to a fashion event by night. I know what it’s like to worry about how others see me in my clothing choices.

On one hand, I have to dress comfortably on a job site to look and be ready to “work” and get dirty. I mean, how could my clients trust me as an engineer if I’m dressed in a suit and concerned more about scuffing my shoes than the stability of a building?

But on the other hand, I can’t exactly show up to a fashion press event in muddy work boots while trying to talk with industry people and making connections. My appearance definitely has an impact on how I’m perceived.

My solution is usually to have an extra set of clothes handy for quick changes between my two conflicting worlds. But no matter what your particular situation may be, you should always dress appropriately for the occasion. I mean, who wants to be the only guy at the party wearing jeans and a tee (even if that’s your day to day style) when everyone else is in suits?

So I guess to summarize, focus on fit and comfort as you begin improving your style because as long as you wear your clothes well, you’ll appear more confident.

And with confidence, the worry of what other people will say about your clothes will soon fade away until you’re taking more risks and really owning your own personal style.

EG: What advice would you give a twenty-something guy looking to improve his appearance on a small budget?

CF: Anytime you want to make a change, it usually takes some time and lot of baby steps. Just be patient and buy one or two items that will complement what you already have in your closet.

When you feel comfortable in what you’re wearing, you’ll look more confident. (click to tweet this)

Over time, upgrade old pieces with some new until you have a collection of versatile, well made clothing. With a limited budget, I would recommend sticking with the basics. Maybe buy one solid pair of jeans, a well-fitting button down shirt, a pair of dress shoes, and a nice sweater.

Pick these pieces based on your budget and what will work with your existing wardrobe. Remember that you can’t completely transform your closet, so just have patience and save!

EG: Do you have a method for putting together an outfit (e.g. starting with one item–a pair of denim, a shirt–and build from there, etc.)? Any advice to those who still might not have an effective method in place?

CF: The only thing I really think about when putting together an outfit is where I’m going and what the weather is like. Haha nothing groundbreaking here but I think it’s a practical and smart way to go about choosing my clothes for the day and this is how I’d also advise people to pick their outfits if they’re having trouble.

If it’s going to be a cold day, I’ll usually start with what jacket I want to wear because most people, including myself, have limited outerwear choices so this helps to narrow down the options. Then I’ll go to pants and a shirt and layer with sweaters or cardigans as necessary so that it complements the rest of the look.

In the spring and summer, when the weather is warm, I ususally like to start with a shirt. There’s not much you can do about layering so I’ll choose a shirt that stands out or “makes” the outfit and then throw on whatever pants or shorts match best.

Awww snap.

There ya have it, friends. I like Anthony’s style a lot and I’m glad he got to share some of his thoughts with us.

Make sure to check him out online. Here’s where you can find him:

• Website/tumblr: Closet Freaks
• Twitter: @closet_freaks
• Facebook: facebook.com/c1osetfreaks
• Pinterest: pinterest.com/closetfreaks
• Instagram: @oh_anthonio

Over to you

Any questions for Anthony? I’m sure he’d be happy to answer (I think, though I haven’t actually asked him haha).

Also, do you know any guys with interesting style you’d like to see in this series?

Let me know, and we’ll see if we can make something happen. Tweet them this series if you think it’ll help convince em!

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Hey gents,

As much as I encourage you to grow up your wardrobe and steer you towards the world of suits and sport coats, I feel like I’ve done you a disservice by not fully diving into the subject about proper fit.

In the beginning, it’s a big step introducing suits and sport coats into your regular rotation, so the last thing I’d want to do is overwhelm you.

If you’ve been following EG for a while now, there’s a good chance you’ve acquired your first suit or sport coat, or are on the hunt for your first one.

It’s important you school yourself on the finer details, especially if you’ve taken a liking to wearing sport coats more regularly. I always stress the importance of fit, and nowhere is poor fit more obvious than in suit jackets and sport coats.

In this article, we’ll cover a few lesser-known indications of poor fit. Hopefully the next time you’re out shopping for a suit, you can recognize these problems in the mirror and either swap for a different size, or shop at a different store, if necessary.

First, the justification for bespoke

There is a reason why full bespoke suiting can cost upwards of $5000+. In addition to materials, constructing the garment itself is very, very time-consuming. It’s meticulously done by hand, requires multiple fittings, and can take a tailor anywhere from 50-100 working hours for one suit.

The benefit of this? A garment that fits like a second skin, something that masks bodily imperfections (e.g. uneven shoulders, odd shape, broad chest, large gut, etc.) and enhances your best features.

The shortcoming? An empty wallet, for one. Bespoke suiting isn’t cheap, and the option isn’t even available to everyone… not only because of prohibitive costs, but also because there just aren’t that many bespoke tailors around anymore. It’s a craft in which few still participate.

Nevertheless, going bespoke is one way to avoid the most common problems I’ve listed below. In case that isn’t an option for you, well… read on and we’ll figure out a workaround.

Two more obvious signs of bad fit

You may already know of these telltale signs. When trying on suits or sport coats in a store, stand straight with arms at your sides. If you see these, it most likely doesn’t fit you correctly.

The Dreaded X

Put on your favorite sport coat and button the top button (or the middle button if it’s a three-button).

Does the fabric pull at the fastening point, forming an X with the wrinkles? This means the jacket is too snug.

There should be no pulling where your jacket buttons. Some trendy, fashion-forward suits are slimmer and may be more snug, but from the standpoint of classic suiting, this isn’t a correct fit.

Do the test: One open hand, palm down, should fit between your buttoned jacket and your shirt. If you make a fist, the jacket should pull and become snug.

Solution

You may need to go up a size, or lose some of that belly. If you’re going up a size, the shoulders may be too big. If that’s the case, try your size at a different store, or look for a different cut of suit (e.g. “traditional” cut instead of modern cut, which tends to have less waist suppression).

Shoulder Divots

Shoulder divots form when a suit jacket’s shoulders are too big and extend past your natural shoulder. It becomes extremely visible right below the shoulder seam when you lift your arms even slightly.

Another cause of shoulder divots is when the wearer has sloping shoulders or a slightly hunched-over stance, but the jacket is constructed with more square shoulders, or designed for a man with an upright stance.

The most common test for correct shoulder pad fit: With your jacket on and arms at your side, touch a wall with your arm like you’re about to lean up against it. You should feel the padding touch the wall, followed almost immediately by your upper arm. The jacket should follow the lines of your body smoothly.

Solution

Go down a size, and / or try on other brands that have a more relaxed, less structured shoulder.

Three other signs of bad fit you may not be aware of

Here’s where things get interesting. You probably have heard of the X and shoulder divots before, but I’m about to list a few things you may not have considered. Pay attention.

Collar Gap

Also known as Prole Gap (go look that one up), collar gap refers to the gap between the back of your shirt collar and the jacket’s collar. Ideally, there should be no gap at all.

Your jacket’s collar should follow the line of your shirt collar exactly, almost as if they’re stuck together. The jacket’s collar should never move away from the back of your shirt collar, even if your arms are flailing above your head.

What causes collar gap? A few possibilities here.

• The jacket doesn’t fit in the chest and / or back
• The neck of the jacket is cut too big for your body shape
• You may have forward-leaning shoulders (if you slouch a bit) and the jacket was constructed for someone with a more neutral, upright stance
• One of your shoulders may be lower than the other (more common than you’d think)

This is why proper shoulder fit is monumentally important when it comes to suit jackets and sport coats. Take a long look at the collar area and see if there’s any gap.

In fact, check right now, with the suit hanging in your closet. Put on the jacket and see if you recognize any collar gap. It’s one of those things that once you see, you can never un-see, especially when looking at other guys in suits.

Solution

Going bespoke. Alternatively, trying on many, many different jacket models from various brands to see whose drape and general construction works best for your body.

More on collar gap

• Via Put This On
• Via Parisian Gentleman
• Via TSB Men

Weird Shoulder Rumpling

This is somewhat related to the shoulder divot, but is noticeable at the top of the shoulder, from the lapel all the way to the sleeve cap. Rumpling can happen when the jacket’s shoulders are too big for the wearer, or if the jacket wasn’t constructed to accommodate the wearer’s natural stance.

It could also appear when the wearer’s actual shoulders don’t fill out the jacket’s shoulder area. This causes the fabric to dip, collapse, or display a generally wrinkled appearance.

Always remember the line that forms atop your shoulders and down your arms should be as smooth and uninterrupted as possible.

Solution

Try on a few jackets from a few different brands. Some jackets are made for men with a more upright stance or straight shoulders, while others can be more forgiving.

Sleeve Pitch

Sleeve pitch refers to the positioning of the jacket’s sleeve relative to your arm’s neutral position. You can expect wrinkling in the sleeves as you move your arms around, but if you find wrinkling when in a neutral stance, there’s a good chance your sleeve pitch is off.

Not everyone’s arms and shoulders have the same neutral position, and wrinkling can occur if both the sleeve’s positioning and the arms’ neutral positioning don’t sync up.

If you’re in the market for a new suit, pay attention to the fabric when you are standing straight with arms at your sides. Check out a side view, and a back view of yourself if possible. If there’s wrinkling at the arm, you should try on a different jacket, model, or brand.

If you already own a suit and noticed excessive wrinkling when your arms are in neutral position, sleeve pitch can be fixed. But, as with all a tailor’s alterations, it comes with a price.

Solution

Hopefully you can find a brand whose jacket construction has the correct pitch, but if not, you have to take it to a tailor.

More on sleeve pitch

• Via Put This On
• Via BespoKenN

“How can I avoid all these issues?!?”

The best solution I can suggest, other than going fully bespoke, is to simply try on many, many jackets. You’ll get the feel for correct fit and what brands and models suit you best (ha! pun.)

Another good idea: go to a high-end department store with knowledgable salespeople (Neiman Marcus, Barney’s, etc.) or a high-end specialty men’s boutique specializing in suiting. The “knowledgable salespeople” bit is important. Here’s why.

If you do this, be honest with the guy. Tell him you’re interested in learning about properly-fitting suits and what best fits your body. Ask him for his help and opinion as to what looks best. Most good sales guys will be happy to exhibit their vast knowledge of proper fit.

You can be upfront with the salesperson if that makes you feel better. Tell him that you’re not planning on buying today, but wanted to try jackets on so you know what fits you best.

If you get an asshole assisting you, don’t be discouraged. Just come back next time and ask someone else. If you have the slightest suspicion that the salesman doesn’t know what he’s talking about (or if he’s dressed poorly himself), continue to nod in agreement as you back away slowly, then run out the door as swiftly as possible.

In conclusion

I hope this helps you recognize signs of improper fit the next time you’re out and about shopping for a suit. Now that you’re aware, your shopping experience should be much better.

If there’s one thing you take away from this article, I hope it’s this: Everything should be smooth. Smooth, clean, fluid lines, from the shoulders all the way down to the hem.

If you pay attention to how the jacket drapes (i.e. lays) on your shoulders and body, it should be smooth. No crazy wrinkling, no mountains of puckering fabric, no fabric tugging at the fastening points.

Now I want to hear from you

Have you bought a suit or sport coat recently, or are you looking to buy a suit soon? Did you look for these signs of bad fit? Looking forward to hearing from you in the comments.

PS — We’re having a big spring cleaning sale over at Fifth&Brannan. You can get 25% off all shirts using “spring25″ at checkout. Also, new pocket squares have arrived!

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