Hey gents,

So, I’m naturally a very organized person. My basic philosophy on organization is that everything has its place, and if I keep that in mind always, nothing is ever overly cluttered or messy.

If you ever checked out my closet, everything is hung and grouped as expected: pants, dress and sport shirts, jackets (each of which is further organized according to color, of course). Sweaters have their own drawer, as do T-shirts, panties, socks, and ties, all neatly folded or balled up (the socks, at least).

Why am I like that naturally? Well, probably because I had an organized mommy growing up. Everything in our house was always in its place, and still is to this day. Interestingly enough, I hardly did my fair share of household cleaning as a kid, and you’d think that would lead to me being a spoiled, cluttered, disheveled punk who doesn’t know how to pick up after himself, but somehow, it’s the exact opposite.

Why do I continue to be like that? One, because it’s a habit. But also because it just makes life easier. I know where everything is, always. On top of that, I paid a lot of money (over time, of course) for the clothing I have, so I want to take care of it the best I can. And that means hanging and folding them properly, making sure the shoe trees are in, that suit jackets are on wide hangers, etc.

How do you organize your clothing?

I’ve gotten several requests for articles on how to better organize clothing. Some people have an overwhelming amount of denim, or ties, or something else, and they don’t know how to best keep it in order.

If you were to ask me, I’d say get rid of all the excess because you KNOW you’re not using all of it. But, let’s assume you’re totally in love with each and every item, and you would die a thousand deaths if you were to get rid of anything.

So I turn the tables on you, the awesome EG community. I know I’m not alone; I’m sure there are peeps more OCD than I am out there. Let’s hear what your organization strategy is. How do you stay neat? How do you keep track of everything you own? What’s the best way to keep everything orderly?

Looking forward to hearing your tactics in the comments below.

[photo]

ps — Fifth&Brannan’s latest collection of shirting is now available for pre-sale. Same excellent quality and fit, with a new button-down collar model, the Knox. Check em out.

Our denim trousers are next, so stay tuned. The fit is simply perfect… if you’re into a well-fitting, dressy pair of denim, that is.

The following is a post by Megan Collins of Style Girlfriend.

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As Jerry Seinfeld might say:

What’s the deal with Dad Jeans?

It’s fitting that I begin this tirade with a Seinfeld-esque question, seeing as the comedian and erstwhile Acura spokesman was one of the worst offenders of Dad Jeans back in the day.

We give the President a hard time, but I think VP Biden deserves just as much of a hard time.

In case you’re not familiar with the term, “Dad Jeans” are a less-than-flattering style of denim that all guys would do well to avoid. That’s because Dad Jeans fall decidedly on the “don’t” side of men’s fashion.

The color is a light blue wash – some may say “stonewashed” if you even remember that phrase from the 80s. The style is high-waisted, sitting well above the hips, and veering dangerously close to a guy’s ribcage. Perhaps worst of all, Dad Jeans billow out around the waist, ostensibly in the name of “comfort” or a “relaxed” fit, though looking at them makes me feel anything but.

Dad Jeans are often seen in the wild worn in conjunction with mock turtlenecks, windbreakers, New Balance “walking” shoes (you know the kind – uber-white, with a sole so big it looks like a platform shoe), and a generally dismissive attitude towards fashion.

Steve Jobs wore Dad Jeans. So did Danny Tanner on Full House. The new torchbearer of the Dad Jean look is our very own commander-in-chief. Wearing his everywhere from the campaign trail to family vacations, the press has filled many valuable newspaper inches dissecting the president’s detente with denim.

So, how to break out of the Dad Jean rut?

Get the fit right

Before you even start shopping, cajole a loved one to help you measure your waist and inseam. You may have been buying one size all these years, but who knows what size you actually are now? Or ever really were? At the store, stick to this number, even if it’s smaller than what you normally wear.

The jeans you try on may feel a little tighter than what you’re used to, but so long as you’re not moving into Steven Tyler territory (ie, skin-tight skinny jeans), you’re probably just experiencing a common sensation known as “wearing clothes that fit for the first time.”

Get the style right

What to look for: You want a dark rinse, straight leg, and absolutely no adornment. This is not the time to get courageous. No studs, no “whiskers” (that terrible rinse that makes the creases look there forever), and definitely no pre-cut holes.

Suck it up

“But Megan,” I hear you arguing at your computer screen. “I want to be comfortable.”

Of course, we all do. But if I left the house feeling the ultimate level of comfort every day, I’d be wearing my flannel J. Crew pajama pants, the ones with the cows printed on them. You don’t want that.

So buck up, learn to take one for the team known as “all of society” and readjust your comfort settings. And for how much better you’ll look, isn’t it worth it? With a quick shopping trip, our president, and anyone else afflicted with DJS (Dad Jean Syndrome), could successfully break out of the disappointing denim cycle.

It’s as easy to make a good impression, as it is to make a bad one. That’s because a little effort up-front—finding a great pair of jeans that fits you and doesn’t make you look like an eighties sitcom star—means no work later on.

Just think of how confident you’ll feel getting dressed every morning when you open your closet and find jeans that fit well and look good with any outfit you wear.

Your kids—or future kids—will thank you.

[photo]

Thanks to EG reader Ace for the article inspiration. Have a topic idea to share? Let me know.

Belts are one of those afterthoughts, aren’t they? Kind of like your wallet after you purchase it: you don’t really think about it until you need to buy another one, which, if you buy quality, won’t be for years.

So if you’re like me, make this purchase count so you won’t be full of regret for the lifespan of this thing.

In keeping with the Lean Wardrobe philosophy, let’s focus on necessity and figure out what exactly it is that you need. Not saying you can’t have more, not saying you don’t want more. But if you only had one, this is what it should be.

What to look for in a belt: some pointers

• Good quality leather (The stuff you find in the clearance aisle at Ross will hold your pants up, but they miss the mark in terms of “good quality”, in most cases)
• Dark brown or black (Depending on the color shoe you wear more… if you’re an avid EG reader, I’m going to assume you’re buying brown. Go you!)
• 1″ – 1.5″ width
• standard, classic design
• matte finished hardware (this is a preference, as some prefer polished, but I say go with something understated)

A belt is utilitarian, for the most part. It has a job and if it does so successfully, well, that’s a good thing. It doesn’t hurt to look good while doing its job, so buying something you like and find attractive is worth it.

I believe the things you use and touch the most in your everyday life should be of high quality… things like your wallet, your everyday bag, your favorite pair of denim. Most of us wear a belt every day, so add this to your splurge list once you have extra disposable income.

Keep it classic. You want this belt to go with everything (aside from, say, your tux… or your PJs), so classic styling with understated hardware is the best choice.

The many shades of brown

Brown shoes brown belt, black shoes black belt. You’ve heard the rule. Since brown leather comes in many shades, and since we’re taking about the one belt you need, just pick one that matches close enough to the color of your shoes.

It doesn’t have to be exact, just close. Your belt and shoes are worn far enough apart on your body that no one really notices.

If you’re a fan of tan or walnut colored leather, you’ll need a belt for that as well. Here’s one I love.

Size up? Maybe.

I’d say the belt fits if you’re two to three holes in from the tip of the belt. Any more, and your belt’s too big. If you’re hinging on the last hole, that doesn’t leave much wiggle room.

In the past I’ve bought belts that are one to two sizes bigger than my typical waist size (so if I’m a 32, I buy a 34 belt). You may have to do the same. Not sure why that is, but I find that to be a more comfortable length, and true to my “three holes in” rule.

Things to avoid

Big ol’ Western-style belt buckles, crazy leather designs, synthetic materials, fabric belts, LED buckles with programmable sayings, plastic bling.

By the way, remember that all these belts would technically be okay (save for those LED or cheap plastic bedazzled shits), depending on the situation. But this article is focusing on the one belt you need, if you only had one. So if you’re all defensive right about now because you totally love your saucer-sized Western buckle, don’t be.

If you own any of these and love them, that’s fine, but make sure you have that one classic belt that goes with everything, in practically every situation.

Suggestions

Here are two I love, that fit the descriptions I laid out above. Check it.

J.Crew leather plaque belt in classic brown – $49.50

Tanner Goods Standard leather belt in Havana  – $88

Simple, right?

Now you know what to look for the next time you’re buying a belt. These will go with everything, from your dark denim, to chinos, to your wool trousers.

Regardless of the brand, and even if you can only afford one of those clearance things at Ross, just stick with as many of the above pointers as possible, and you’ll be okay.

You rock!

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ps – Join EG on Facebook and Twitter

[belt buckle photo]

The Lean Wardrobe is an ongoing series of articles exploring the ideas and philosophies behind curating a lean wardrobe… Things like cleaning out whats unnecessary, buying only what you’ll use, spending on things that are worth it, etc.

If you’re interested in creating a lean, mean closet with only stuff you love to wear (while getting rid of the crap that’s taking up space) you should subscribe to Effortless Gent (this will open in a new window or tab).

My friends Ryan and Josh from The Minimalists approached me with this article, which I found pretty interesting. It’s on the more extreme end of the Lean Wardrobe philosophy I’ve been exploring, but a great perspective nonetheless.

When I first started re-inventing my wardrobe, I didn’t realize I was doing it. All I knew was that I had three closets full of clothing, and I really only wore a handful of those things. I hate clutter and hanging onto stuff I no longer use, so I set out to get rid of a majority of my clothing. I had also lost a ton of weight and most of the stuff no longer fit me, so this made my decision making easier.

A simple life is a good life. Simplicity frees you and allows you to do the things you want. Having three closets full of barely-used clothing isn’t simple.

It takes work to keep a wardrobe as lean as possible. By the way, I’m far from perfect. I still have shirts (and pants, and jackets, and sweaters) that I don’t wear often enough to justify keeping them, but I look at it as an ongoing process of curation and clearing out.

Check out this article, and I’d love to hear what you think.

Enter Josh:

What does a minimalist wear? I’m surprised I get this question as often as I do—as if people expect to see me walking around Dayton, Ohio, in a loincloth—but, given the many misconceptions surrounding minimalism, I suppose it’s a valid question.

My answer: a minimalist wears his or her favorite clothes and nothing else.

You might recall I donated over 90% of my clothes this year. Do you know why that’s so exciting? Two reasons:

1. I was able to contribute to people who were less fortunate than me.
2. I love all of the clothes I kept, so I get to wear what I love every day.

Thus, a minimalist wears his or her favorite clothes every day. Most days I wear jeans, a teeshirt, and a pair of Toms shoes. Or, when I feel like it, I wear a crisp white button-up shirt (pictured above), jeans, a blazer, colorful socks, and a clean pair of dress shoes. And I avoid logos for several reasons (though I still have a couple items with a small horse logo).

I don’t have many clothes now—and I still go to the Goodwill a few times per month and donate an item or two (if I’m not wearing it anymore, it gets donated)—but I thoroughly enjoy the clothes I do own.

But I don’t give sentimental meaning to my clothes. If all of my clothes burned in a house fire tomorrow, it wouldn’t be a big deal to me. I give meaning to the important things in life—to relationships, to health, to pursuing my passions, to growth, to contribution.

I enjoy my clothes, but I am not my wardrobe. To illustrate this fact (i.e., to practice what I preach), I gave away my favorite jeans, my favorite shirt, and my favorite shoes on my buddy Craig’s Simple Black Coffee website in February. What did that mean to me? Well, the same two things as above: (1) a few people got some nice new attire (plus I made a new online friend in David William, a great guy who got my favorite pair of Allen Edmonds dress shoes); and (2) other garments stepped up and became my new favorites.

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Let’s hear what you have to say

How do you deal with your wardrobe? Do you have a bunch of clothes sitting in your closet, unworn (or barely worn), yet you feel bad letting them go? Are you emotionally attached to most of the crap you keep?

Are you interested in owning fewer–but better quality–essentials that you can wear for years, and enjoy it every time you put them on?

Let’s hear it in the comments below.

Hey gents,

For some reason, I’m still seeing these clothing crimes committed every day on the streets. That either means not everyone is reading EG, or… yeah that’s probably it. Maybe I should start handing out business cards to these criminals with my URL on it.

In the meantime, make sure you’re not committing these same mistakes. Just knowing these are mistakes should be second nature by now! But just in case, here’s a little refresher.

Tying your sweater around your waist

I understand. The sun came out, you started to overheat. But unless you’re a 12-year-old on your first field trip to the aquarium, stop tying your sweater around your waist. It’s a bad look. Probably the worst look ever.

Try this: fold it in half length wise, fold down the sleeves, and hold the damn thing. Like a man. Boom! Done.

Besides, if you’ve been following along and applying what you’ve learned here at EG to your everyday life, you’re probably buying better quality sweaters. You don’t want to stretch the arms out by tying them around your waist.

Defaulting to black everything

You’re most likely not an imposing, yet soft spoken super celebrity like Jay, so lay off the “all black everything”.

Black signals a level of formality that most of us aren’t a part of, day in and day out, so there’s no need to make that your primary color.

Also, there’s more to life than black shirt, black sweatshirt. Experiment with color! Take a cue from the ladies and dress more like they do.

Tags on your new suit / coat sleeves, thread holding together your vents

Seriously? We’ve been over this. Remove them!

While we’re at it, remove the price tags from the soles of your shoes before you walk out of TJ Maxx, and remove the window sticker from your new ride. We know your Bentley costs more than a Midwest mansion, you don’t have to remind us.

Moreover, why are you shopping at TJ Maxx if you’re driving a Bentley?

Wait, what.

White socks with leather dress shoes

Is this still happening? If so, why?

White athletic socks have no place in a leather dress shoe. Buy appropriate socks.

Collars over your sweater

I wore my collars over my sweaters… when I was in 2nd grade. Let’s always keep our collars IN our sweaters. This is one thing you might have to check every once in a while, to make sure it’s not slipping into your sweater. Doesn’t happen very often—at least not in my experience—but just in case.

Black, square-toe, rubber-soled shoes with stonewash denim

This is a two-fer right here. First off, you should never be wearing shoes like these, or these. Second, stop pairing it with stonewash denim. In fact, stop wearing stonewash denim. You should already own the one pair you need. Wear that.

Untucked dress shirts

Dress shirts and sport shirts are different. They may seem the same, but they aren’t.

Dress shirts are typically longer in the torso, because they’re meant to be tucked in. Always tuck these in. If you want to wear a button-up untucked, buy the appropriate shirt for it (think oxford cloth button downs, casual plaid shirts, etc.)

Denim… shorts

Jorts are never an option. They’re just not. Don’t try to argue.

If its hot enough to wear shorts, try a good pair of chino ones in a muted or neutral color, or do the opposite and get a pair of go to hell chino shorts. Just don’t do denim.

Oversized suit jackets

I applaud you for trying to class up your daily look. You’re keeping it casual, with just a hint of formal by throwing on that blazer or suit jacket.

The problem is, it’s still the wrong size. If it’s big in the torso, nothing a tailor can’t fix. If it’s big in the shoulders, hopefully you kept the receipt, because you should probably return it.

Remember, fit is EVERYTHING. Just look at the above photo for proof.

You can buy a $6000 Tom Ford Suit, but if it’s the wrong size, you’ll still look terrible. Conversely, you can buy a $180 suit from H&M, spend $50-$100 on a tailor, and look like a million bucks.

The fit is more important than brand you choose. When you’re limited on funds, spend more on the former than the latter.

Did I miss anything?

I’m sure I did. But hey, if you’re smart enough to remind me in the comments, you’re smart enough to never make the same mistake… right?

Let’s hear some of the other clothing crimes you’ve witnessed. More importantly, do you commit any of these? *GASP*

If so, what will you do to change your ways?

[jay photo, white socks photo, evan photo]

Hey gents,

I’m gonna keep it short and sweet this week with this little gym-inspired tip.

Don’t be afraid to show those ankles.

There, I said it. Let’s stop wearing these sad excuses for socks, and start putting on the real deal, something called a “no-show sock”.

First thing’s first, make sure you’re only wearing cotton athletic socks with casual sneakers, or when you’re actually working out or being athletic. We’ve discussed this already, as I’m sure you remember.

If you’re over the age of 12, the no-show sock is the only athletic sock you should consider. No arguing!

And no, not ankle socks, not mid-calf socks. If you’re gonna get all 80s with the striped calf-length tube socks, fine, but you better be so hip you can actually pull that off. And please, no slouch socks. (Had to be said… just in case.)

Don’t be fooled by the socks that are marketed as “ankle socks”. What you really want is a sock that hits below the ankle bone, so it’s mostly hidden by the shoe. Ankle socks cover the ankles, which are still too high.

Just look at the above image. The two on the left with the green checks? Those are no-shows. The two on the right, with the Xs? Ankle socks.

“lolwut, why does it matter?”

It’s a matter of aesthetics. Sneakers with no-show socks just look better, plain and simple. Sometimes you don’t need a sartorially-inspired reason.

Seriously, bro?

You don’t want floppy sock garters bunching around your ankles, and even those “ankle socks” that cover the ankle bone look terrible. Just trust me and pick up a couple pairs of no-show socks. This should get you started.

Are they slipping down over your heel when you walk? Either pull them up higher so when you slip your shoe on, the sock naturally slides into place, or find another brand. I’ve noticed some brands just don’t have supportive enough elastic in their socks.

Additional tip that I condone

Like the sockless look with your brogues, but hate the idea of sweating and stinking up your good leather shoes? Black no-show socks can work. You may have to wear them a bit lower, and they may peek out a bit, but that’s okay. That’s certainly more acceptable than a guy wearing footies.

Something I DO NOT condone

Speaking of footies (this shouldn’t even be a topic of conversation), I’ve heard of guys using women’s footies because they don’t want socks to show when wearing boat shoes.

It works, in theory, but what IF you had to take your shoes off in public? Just… what if.

Don’t wear them. If you can’t handle sockless, then don’t do it at all.

There you go, gents. My quick tip for the week.

Busy behind the scenes

Apologies if I haven’t been publishing as much or answering emails as quickly as I usually do. I’ve been working on some delicious stuff behind the scenes and there just isn’t enough time in the day.

I know I’ve mentioned this in the past, but I’m adding the final touches on the first EG manual, tentatively titled “The Effortless Guide to Graduating Your Style”. This will be a useful resource for guys looking to build their wardrobe from the ground up. Together we’ll assess your current wardrobe, figure out what needs to go and what’s worth keeping, and then help you slowly add classic, quality pieces meant to last years.

This guide is perfect for any man looking for a solid wardrobe foundation, but especially helpful to newly-minted college grads and dudes entering the job market, even guys who are in the middle of a career transition and hoping to polish their appearance in addition to their résumés.

If this sounds like you, make sure to sign up for updates, as I’ll be making this available to those on the EG list first (and at a special price). Sign up for updates by clicking here (and don’t worry, I hate SPAM in my inbox as much as you, so I won’t waste your time).

K (the gf) and I have also been hard at work on the new Fifth&Brannan collection. If you’re new to EG (welcome to the large wave of readers that have signed up lately), I co-founded a men’s clothing label with the girlfriend, called Fifth&Brannan. There have been some delays on the manufacturing / production end, but we’re gently nudging them along so we can finally release.

First up will be our new line of shirting, followed up by made-to-order chinos and trouser denim in the coming weeks, and also a new selection of ties, and possibly even a bow tie.

We’re super proud of this collection, and we’d love for you to own a 5&B piece. Stay on top of all the release dates by joining the 5&B fam. How do you join, you ask? Just click right here.

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Busy busy. Until next time!

photo credit (top to bottom): amazon.com, riggertrainlad via flickr, zappos.com

In all honesty, I’m not a big spender. I definitely don’t splurge very often, either (not on clothes, anyway). I always see things I want and like, but I’ve conditioned myself for so long to hold off hold off HOLDOFF… until I’m certain it’s something I absolutely want.

See, when you splurge on an item, it’s more about desire than necessity.

No one NEEDS Tom Ford suits when there’s a Men’s Wearhouse (bleh) down the street. You don’t NEED a pair of $1600 John Lobb lace-ups to cover your feet, or a $7k Panerai just to figure out the time.

These items are about desire: for history, quality, a story, a brand name. We’re way past utility when there’s $7k on your wrist.

I’m not saying this desire is a bad thing, rather, how do we strike a balance between affordability and luxury?

The reason I ask this is because as we get older, our tastes evolve (and our incomes rise), and we start to desire other, better things. Why take your significant other to McDonald’s when you can afford dinner at Morton’s or BLT, right?

But, if we gave into our desires for the biggest, baddest, most awesome things all the time, well, we’d have lots of cool shit but no cash in our pockets.

How do we choose what’s worth the extra coin, and what we should pass on (or at least substitute for a more affordable alternative)?

Determining if your desired item is splurge-worthy

Let me preface all this by saying that if you’re in the minority of folks who can easily practice delayed gratification, I tip my hat to you.

Controlling spending is difficult, and if you ever find yourself on that slippery slope of buying things (usually on credit) before you make the money… be careful with that ish, my friends.

Concerns about style, looking good, and having cool things don’t matter when you’re drowning in debt. Get your finance game straight before buying anything that isn’t a necessity to live (like rent, or food).

Even better, pare down, buy quality, understand the principles of wardrobe minimalism and adopting a personal uniform, and your new habits will justify the splurges you give into every now and again.

So this is my rough three-point checklist when I’m considering a splurge-worthy purchase. Try asking yourself these things next time:

Have I been looking at it forever?

• Do you visit the store all the time?
• Have you tried it on more times than you can remember?
• Are you always looking at the product page online, so much so that it’s the first result in your browser’s history when you type the first letter of the URL?
• Can you recite the product description listed on the site by heart?
• Do product shots make appearances in your dreams?

If you’re thinking of a particular item while answering “yes!” to these questions, perhaps this is something you really should buy.

Do I have the means to purchase it?

Like I mentioned earlier, I’m not talking about credit cards. That’s cheating.

If you’re a smart man, you’ll save up the cash before buying it. There’s no true joy in buying something on credit… it may feel good at the time, but that’s just the deceptive high of instant gratification.

Put away $100-200 (or whatever you can set aside) every month until you can afford it, then go buy it with that cash. The feeling of finally having that item in your possession after saving for it is sweeeet. You know what’s even sweeter? A $0 balance on that credit card.

Plus, you also get a chance to practice delayed gratification by saving for something instead of taking the easy way out and using the credit card. Delayed gratification is monumentally important, especially considering the type of debt people find themselves in nowadays. SO not worth it for a new pair of shoes or a dope jacket.

Do I REALLY want it?

Be sure you really want it. This is probably a bigger, pricier purchase, or else you wouldn’t have been debating over it for so long. Make sure you really want this thing, and know your reasons why.

Quick test: When you find this potentially splurge-worthy item, simply walk away from it and go about your day (or X out of your browser window). The next day, are you still thinking about that item? Do you revisit the store just to take a gander one more time?

A few days later, are you still daydreaming about it, checking stock online, looking at product photos?

That’s when you know you really, really want something. If you can step away from it and give the chemicals in your brain a chance to simmer down, and you still find yourself wishing you had it, then you know it’s not a spur-of-the-moment impulse buy.

The Not Quick At All test: Do you still want said item after saving for it for weeks, potentially months? If you’ve saved the money and you still want the damn thing, it’s DEFINITELY meant to be yours.

If you could live without, since you’ve done so for this long… well, good thing you didn’t buy that item on credit, knawmeen?

Will this splurge-worthy item eventually become an heirloom you pass on? Is it something you can use every day? Do you get giddy with excitement every time you’re near it? You should be passionate about it if you’re gonna buy it, so know your reasons.

Never buy something because it’s what everyone else wants, or to be a show-off, or to put yourself on display like a damn peacock. Purchasing something of luxury shouldn’t be done for these purposes.

Luxury should be personal, intimate. Keep it to yourself and enjoy the outstanding quality quietly, otherwise you look like a douchebag showoff.

BOOM. There’s your quick three-question mini test. Hopefully this saves you from several regretful purchases you otherwise might have made in 2012.

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Speaking of splurge-worthy, K and I are gearing up to release our second collection at Fifth&Brannan. We’ll be releasing the collection in phases. If you were hoping for everything all at once, sorry to disappoint… but that’s okay! A controlled drip is better than a tsunami of awesomeness. Wouldn’t want you to pass out from sheer delight, or anything.

Best way to stay on top of the 5&B goodness that’s about to grace your screens in early February? Sign up on our mailing list. We’ll make it worth your while, I promise. Click here to get on the list.

If you’re so inclined, feel free to chat with us on Twitter, or be buddies with us on Facebook. It’s all the rage these days.

Photo credit: HO/AFP/Getty Images, tomford.com

Hey gents,

I talk a lot about brown dress shoes… a lot. I’m a big fan of them over your typical black pair (because black is mostly uninteresting, unless you find the right pair).

On top of that, guys default to black dress shoes. Guys need to stop settling for “default” choices and saying to themselves, “Meh, good enough.” It’s important to be a little daring, step out of your comfort zone, and do things the rest of your peers are not doing.

So brown leather dress shoes are a step in the right direction.

But, to those still stepping up their game, what constitutes a GOOD pair of brown leather dress shoes? Can you just pick any pair that looks brown, and looks leathery? What qualifies as the RIGHT pair of brown shoes?

Well, what better way to explain than with pictures, am I right?

The WRONG pair of brown “dress shoes”

Here’s what you’re looking for… so you can avoid them. I say “dress shoes” because these aren’t really what I had in mind when I told you to go out and get a great pair of shoes.

I only pointed out a few things here, but you get the general idea. If you see any of these elements on a pair of shoes you’re considering, it’s best to back away slowly, turn around, and run.

The RIGHT pair of brown leather dress shoes

And here’s a good example of the kind of brown leather dress shoes you should look for when purchasing your first (or second, or third) pair.

These are the Fifth Avenue model by Allen Edmonds via Zappos. The characteristics I pointed out above are what you want to look for the next time you’re on the hunt.

Things like a narrow, sexy silhouette, leather upper and outsole, classic stitching, broguing (if you like it, i certainly do), the right heel height, and a Goodyear welt (the top-notch hand sewn construction, attaching the sole to the upper part of the shoe).

This particular model (and shoe brand) is expensive, sure. Not everyone can afford $325 shoes. But if you were going to own one pair for years and years, Allen Edmonds is one of the brands you want to explore.

Not only are they of extreme quality, they look damn sexy, they’re made in the US, and they even offer a recrafting service for all their shoes. For a fraction of the cost of a new pair, you can send your AEs in and have them resoled and cleaned up. After a few weeks, you’ll get your shoes back, looking better than ever.

Why not just buy a new pair? Because things look better with age, if they’re built to age well. Most cheap shoes aren’t meant to be worn years and years. Shoes like Allen Edmonds are (that’s why they offer a recrafting service in the first place… I’ve seen pairs that are 20+ years old looking as good as ever).

Plus, here at EG, we’re all about identifying and shopping for quality items, things that last, and using them for years. Why buy a $50 pair of “dress shoes” that last one year before the sole comes unglued and the “leather” starts to flake, rendering them completely unwearable?

This applies to dress shoes at any price point

But hey, I still hear ya. Even I can’t plop down four bills every time I want a nice pair of shoes. If this sounds like you, trust me, this isn’t about always spending top dollar.

The important takeaway from this is to look for these specific characteristics when you’re out buying shoes. Stay away from the WRONG pairs, and find shoes that resemble the RIGHT pair.

Boom! That’s it.

Questions?

Unsure about certain parts of the right pair, or why a certain wrong pair are wrong? Let’s hear it in the comments below.

ps — crazy, EG is almost at 1000 likes on Facebook! When did that happen? If you want to help us reach 1000 (not that numbers matter, but it’s just kinda cool to see), like us on Facebook here.

The benefit to you is that when we have a bigger community on FB, we can get into more detailed discussions about things and field opinions and thoughts from everyone else in the community. Plus, the conversation is better on there (and it’s easy to reach me). So like EG!

photos via zappos

The Lean Wardrobe is an ongoing series of articles exploring the ideas and philosophies behind curating a lean wardrobe… Things like cleaning out whats unnecessary, buying only what you’ll use, spending on things that are worth it, etc.

If you’re interested in creating a lean, mean closet with only stuff you love to wear (while getting rid of the crap that’s taking up space) you should subscribe to Effortless Gent (this will open in a new window).

Hey gents,

I’m a big proponent of understanding basic style rules, and then bending those rules (maybe even breaking a couple) to make them your own. Doing so will help you create a personal style that’s completely yours.

The idea of high / low style isn’t a new thing, but if you haven’t yet incorporated the idea of it into your daily life, why not?

High/low style (or high-low, whatever) is this general idea of combining high-fashion, tailored, and custom pieces with more casual, everyday pieces. Alternatively, the combining of the higher-priced items in your closet with your less expensive items.

Most people have outfits in mind for certain occasions. So, jeans and a t-shirt for going to the store, suit for work or a wedding, etc.

The idea behind high / low style is blurring the lines (something else I’m a big proponent of) so you take on a more casual dressy look, or a dressy casual look. Never too overdressed for any occasion, but never underdressed either.

Probably the most basic high / low style mixture out there? Denim with a sport coat. Looks great, classes up the denim. Throw on some great leather shoes and in 95% of situations, you’d be dressed appropriately.

Waistcoat, denim, dress shirt, sneakers. BOOM.

Some other ideas? A waistcoat and dress shirt with denim and sneakers, suiting trousers with a simple, fitted sweatshirt. Suiting trousers with sneakers and a thick cardigan sweater.

Think mixing high and low can’t look good? It sure can. Remember, if everything fits well, you’ll have a much easier time putting things together and making sure your look is polished.

Other reasons you may want to use high/low to your advantage:

Perfect way to utilize both casual / dressier clothing in your closet

If you’re like most dudes, the suit you bought and had tailored sits in your closet for most of the year, only seeing the light of day when a special occasion arises.

You need to make use of that suit more often. Break it up and use parts of it throughout the week. Throw on your suit jacket with your favorite pair of denim. Wear the trousers with a sweater and some sneakers. Mixing a suit in with other, more casual pieces, keeps shit interesting, and adds another dimension of awesomeness to your everyday style.

Here’s a great article (with images) from Dan T over at The Style Blogger, where he shows five different ways you can wear individual pieces from a double breasted suit.

Lets you be more creative with your combos

It’s easy to get into a routine with your clothing. And there’s nothing wrong with a uniform, but if you’re still figuring out what defines your personal style, you don’t want to get stuck early on. You want to experiment and try as many things as possible, so you can land upon something that’s uniquely your own.

Word?

Wondering if you can pair X with Y? Not sure how to pull off slim trousers with anything but the suit jacket it came with? Let’s hear it in the comments below.

—

By the way, are you following Fifth&Brannan?

If not, you totally should be. We’re putting the final touches on our next collection, and we’re looking to release in early February. Stay updated by joining the 5&B fam and hitting up our Facebook page.

Pairing socks with shoes and the rest of the outfit is something I haven’t thought about for a while because it comes naturally. But, I understand there are a bunch of guys still unsure about which socks to choose when figuring out what to wear for the day.

Some questions you may have: Do I match them to my shoes or my pants? What about my shirt, can I match my socks to that? Should my socks match my underwear? Since my belt and shoes match, should I match my socks to those?

Okay, I was exaggerating a little (hopefully none of you are going out of your way to match your underwear), but some of those questions are valid, and you may find yourself asking them once in a while.

(Side note, I despise the idea of “matching” your socks to anything, and you’ll see what I mean by the end of this article.)

So, if you’re a fan of these Back to Basics articles, you might find this one pretty useful.

Looking for the full-sized version? (right click, Open in New Tab)

So here’s a quick summary:

• Athletic socks (white and black no-show socks, first sock column) for athletic shoes / casual sneakers only
• “Dress socks” (everything from the second sock column, on) for every shoe other than athletic shoes
• No thin / fine dress socks for athletic shoes
• No white / black athletic socks for dress shoes
• color tip: Be bold! Don’t worry about matching pants to socks
• color tip: Pair socks with colors in your outfit, be a little experimental
• fabric tip: Cotton and cotton blend striped and patterned socks for casual sneakers, casual or dressier leather shoes
• fabric tip: Thicker cotton and wool varieties for casual leather shoes
• fabric tip: Fine wool blend and cashmere dress socks for leather dress shoes

See what I did there? There’s absolutely no matching involved between socks and shoes. It’s about pairing socks with colors complementary to the rest of your outfit.

The “Match your pants to your socks” Rule

“But, B, isn’t there a rule that says you should always match (ugh) your socks to your pants? Black pants, black socks? Navy pants, navy socks? Brown pants, brown socks?”

This rule exists 1.) to give the simple-minded, “no gray area” type of guy guidelines to follow, and 2.) because visually, it elongates the leg (a good thing), whereas when you’re matching socks to shoes, it doesn’t do that.

This isn’t a bad rule to follow. In many cases, it’s sufficient.

However, you read the Effortless Gent. You’re not a simple-minded guy, and you know that the gray area most guys avoid is where you can have lots of fun, and where your personal style is developed and defined.

I say forget about this rule. I never deliberately match my socks to my pants. Instead, pick awesome socks with colors that are complementary to whatever you’re wearing. Most of the time, guys don’t have a chance to be too loud or daring with their clothing, but socks are one place where you can have a little fun.

How do I pair my socks with my clothes?

If you’re unsure how to pair your colors together, you may have to think back to art class in elementary school, when the teacher taught you about color relationships. Those same rules still apply.

To keep it simple, you want your colors to be complementary. Which colors are complementary? Bust out your color wheel and choose two colors opposite each other. If that’s too rigid a rule, you basically want the colors to feel good together.

Here’s how to figure out what feels good together. Check out this site, which lists all the basic types of color pairings.

Don’t be afraid of color

I’m a big proponent of color. Most guys don’t wear enough. Most guys stick to blue jeans, black up top, black shoes. Holy effing boring!

I’m encouraging you to explore color as you develop and define your personal style. Color is super important and keeps things interesting. As a refresher, check out the Back to Basics article about color that looks best for your skin type.

Looking for color pairing inspiration? Look through this site’s archives, browse other men’s style sites, check out the menswear stream on Tumblr.

Hopefully this Back to Basics article and my pep talk about going above and beyond your basic black sock convinces you to experiment more in the new year.

Let’s talk more about it

Hope that helps!

Leave a comment below, or we can continue this conversation over at Facebook.

socks: Hanes, Corgi, Happy Socks, J.Crew // shoes: Nike, Keds, Sperry, Tod’s, Clarks, LL Bean, Alden // credit: photo, photo