The Circumference

Bathe at the Mythical Kumbh Mela: Largest Gathering of People on Earth

Wed, 11 Nov 2009 19:48:35 +0000

India is a country of diverse faiths, and Kumbh Mela is one of the holiest events in India, bringing Hindus from all over the country, and the world, together. This is a time when Hindus forget which caste they belong to, which region they come from or their social status, and take part in the mass celebration of Kumbh Mela. This event has attracted the acclaimed title as the largest human gathering in the world, where people come with only one thing on their mind, faith. Pilgrims come to Kumbh Mela full of such tremendous devotion, and in such overwhelming numbers, that it boggles the mind. It looks like an ocean of humans. Kumbh (pot) Mela (fair) is the sacred pilgrimage of the Hindus that takes place in four places in India. They are Prayag near Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh (where the three sacred rivers: Ganga, Jamuna and Saraswati meet); Haridwar, Uttranchal (where the mighty river Ganga enters the plains from the Himalayas); Ujjian, Madhya Pradesh (near the river Ksipra); and in Nasik, Maharashtra on the banks of Godavari River. The Kumbh Mela pilgrimage occurs four times every twelve years, once at each of the four locations mentioned above. It also takes place as the Maha Kumbh Mela on the twelve-year-cycle in Prayag, which is considered the most sacred of all and is attended by millions of people. According to astrologers, when the planet Jupiter enters Aquarius and the Sun enters Aries, the holy event of Kumbh Mela begins. It is believed that during this period, the passage from Earth to other higher planets is open, and the soul can easily attain the celestial world. Thus by bathing in the holy river, the past sins are washed off and the soul attains Moksha (becomes eligible for liberation from the cycle of birth and death). People take ritual baths in the holy river at a predetermined time, and forgetting the extreme temperatures. This river offers purity, wealth and fertility, and washes away the sins of those who bathe in it. One must also understand the mythological story behind Kumbh Mela. It is believed that during the Vedic period when Gods and Demons reined the world, the duo made a temporary agreement to work together for churning Amrita (the nectar of immortality) from the Milky Ocean, and share it equally among them. But when the Kumbh (pot) containing Amrita appeared, the demons fled with it. The Gods chased them and fought with them for twelve days and nights (equivalent to twelve human years) in the sky for its possession. During this battle, drops of Amrita fell on earth in four places: Prayag, Nasik, Haridwar and Ujjain. It is believed that due to drops of Amrita, these places have acquired mystical power (especially Prayag), and henceforth they became the venue of Kumbh Mela.

Quaff a Chinese Lager at the Tsingtao Beer Brewery

Tue, 10 Nov 2009 17:52:07 +0000

Qingdao, a picturesque coastal city on China's eastern seaboard, boasts an interesting past and a groovy seaside atmosphere. Once colonized by Germans, Qingdao (sounds like "ching daow") is the venerable home of China's most iconic beer: Tsingtao. The name Tsingtao is an earlier Romanized spelling of the same Chinese word: "qing dao," which means “green island.” Although not actually an island, Qingdao is now a major seaport city, and in 2008, it hosted the Beijing Olympic Sailing competition in its scenic bay. The World of Tsingtao is the main brewery and museum of Tsingtao beer, located right in Qingdao City. Tickets to Tsingtao Brewery give you access to the museum, which highlights the history of Tsingtao beer from its founding in 1903 by German settlers. These settlers colonized the city between 1898 and 1922, and founded most of the city's earliest infrastructure. You also get a chance to see how the beer is actually brewed, including which ingredients are special to Tsingtao beer, and how it is bottled and distributed. One of the best parts of Tsingtao Brewery is a raised viewing platform that runs above the bottling plant. Here, you can watch the bottles running along a conveyor belt maze: to be filled, capped and inspected. If you're there at the right time, you might get a glimpse of one of the Tsingtao inspectors checking for broken or damaged bottles as they run their course through the conveyor. Past the bottling plant, a tasting room gives visitors a chance to sample Tsingtao beer at its freshest. The tasting room is modelled on similar rooms in Western breweries. A dark wooden bar counter, high tables and soft lighting, give it a true pub-like feel. And the beer that comes out of the tasting room taps is perhaps the finest sample of Tsingtao beer you'll ever taste. Having learned so much about the history and brewing process of Tsingtao beer, you are simply dying for a pint. Luckily, the entrance ticket to Tsingtao Brewery includes a free pitcher of beer at the end of the brewery tour. A large German-style beer hall concludes the tour and provides a cozy resting place to quaff your free pitcher. Afterwards, if you still have a taste for more, explore the 'Beer Street' (pijiu jie) just outside. The scattergun of small Chinese restaurants along this road all have Tsingtao beer taps, and some offer rarer styles of Tsingtao, including Tsingtao Dark Beer and Tsingtao Green Beer.

Travel back in time to Byzantium at Istanbul's Hagia Sophia

Mon, 09 Nov 2009 20:33:10 +0000

Istanbul's Hagia Sophia ("Church of Holy Wisdom") is considered to be an enduring, majestic symbol of the Byzantine Empire. At an astonishing 1,475 years old, the Hagia Sophia changed the face of architecture and merged religions. Originally an Orthodox Christian basilica, the building was constructed over five years by 10,000 workers on the orders of Emperor Justinian I in 532-7 AD. The Hagia Sophia was then the seat of the Patriarch of Constantinople for almost all of its first millennium. In 1453, Istanbul was conquered by the Ottoman Turks, and the Hagia Sophia was ordered to be converted into a mosque. It remained so until 1935, when the Turkish government declared the Hagia Sophia a museum. For over a thousand years it was the largest church in the world and is now one of the twenty biggest churches on the planet, even fifteen centuries after it was built. When you enter the Hagia Sophia, make sure to linger for a moment where prompted just inside the first set of huge wooden doors. By taking a few slow steps while looking up, you'll get the best possible sense of the roof's amazing interior unfolding before your eyes. First you will see a small dome with half a dozen windows, and then you will realize it is one of three domes enclosed by a larger dome. A few more steps and the much larger overall dome will come into breathtaking view, ornately decorated and encircled by windows filled with the dazzlingly bright Turkish sun. The sight is all the more amazing when you consider that this architectural feat was achieved almost a millennium and a half ago. Once inside, evidence of Hagia Sophia's mixed history, as both a Christian and Muslim place of worship, is visible all around. Richly decorated with mosaics, over its centuries as a Christian basilica, many of the Hagia Sophia's historic paintings were plastered over when it became a mosque. However, many of these historic paintings inside the church are again visible thanks to a modern restoration project that is still ongoing. You can also see most of the trappings of an Islamic mosque—the mihrab (wall inset pointing to Mecca), minbar (raised pulpit), and of course the four gigantic minarets or pillars outside—that were added in the centuries that followed the Hagia Sophia's conversion into a site of Muslim prayer. The centre of the largest dome is a point of controversy within the restoration project. It currently features Islamic calligraphy but was originally the site of a mosaic of Christ the Pantocrator ("Almighty"). The original painting is centuries older, but the Muslim art, now historic in itself, would have to be destroyed to uncover the first mosaic (if it is even still there). Ultimately, a visit to the Hagia Sophia is about more than just historic architecture; it is about the rare sight of two of the world's biggest belief systems coming together under one roof.

Beauty Meets Mystery and Tradition at Mount Monaro in Vanuatu

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 20:44:11 +0000

There is a place in the South Pacific where beauty meets mystery, and tradition shakes hands with modern times in a way no other place on earth can match. Located on the island of Ambae in The Republic of Vanuatu, the lakes which crown Mount Manaro are sacred to the people in ways we can only try to understand. The splendor of going to Mount Manaro isn’t just limited to swimming in one of the highest crater lakes in the South Pacific, or observing a smoking mound of sulphur among breathtaking waters. It's taking the time to learn about and participate in such a rare culture. Mount Manaro is made up of two main crater lakes named Vui and Gesa. Vui Lake is active, has a large sulphur bed sitting in the centre and gorgeous electric green waters filling its crater. The last major disturbance took place in 2005, yet at present it is fairly stable. Gesa Lake is a dormant volcano lying in a crater abutting Vui Lake and holding a darker bluish-coloured water suitable for leisurely swimming. Together they make up Manaro, what Ni-Vanuatu (native citizens) consider to be the sacred ground where the spirit goes upon death. People have only recently (the past forty years or so) begun to explore the uppermost reaches of Ambae island. Custom dictates that upon death the spirit goes to the top of the volcano, Manaro, in order to live in the afterlife. Even to this day, when a person dies the body is buried with coconuts for food, along with natangora leaves and bamboo so the spirit may build a shelter. People go to the top of Mount Manaro to speak with deceased relatives, talk with spirits about important decisions, or for spiritual guidance in life. We followed a ridgeline to the top, stretching to the northern corner of the crater where we slowly entered, catching glimpses of the lakes until almost suddenly they were upon us. Gesa Lake is cold due to the elevation, and its waters made for a refreshing dip after the effort endured to reach it. There is no life in Gesa Lake other than small tadpoles and a type of grass that lines the bottom, creating an eerie silence that seeps in as you survey the glossy surface of the water. In the far bank can be seen the yellow sulphur pile where in the past lava flowed freely throughout the crater. Clouds roll in and out obstructing views, and then drift off just as fast, helping you to understand why some people say there is a spiritual presence constantly watching over Mount Manaro. The result is culminated in the belief that the ground is haunted. Vui Lake is not as visitor friendly because the waters are warm and the smell of sulphur permeates the air, creating that rotten egg smell which accompanies volcanic activity. There is no swimming in Vui Lake (unless you don’t want to leave), yet it is incredibly peaceful to sit and look out over the waters, appreciating the power and energy still actively warming the mass before you. A river of black sulphur can be seen flowing freely from the mound, impressing upon you how the volcano is still very much alive and well.

Snorkel Above a Rich Fabric of Marine Life at Mexico's Akumal Bay

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 17:23:31 +0000

Akumal is a wonderfully laid back, quiet village 60 miles south of Cancún, along Quintana Roo’s Mayan Riviera coast in Mexico. A world away from the turbulent goings-on farther north, Akumal has held onto its rich history and Mayan roots, which is very evident when mingling with the residents on a walk along the town’s narrow avenues. One of the former residents is celebrated just inside the town arch, where a statue of Gonzalo Guerrero and his family stand. Guerrero was a Spanish conquistador, who, after being shipwrecked at Akumal, made the very best of his situation by becoming a respected warrior and marrying a Mayan princess to start the first known Euro-American family. Re-discovered in the early 1950s, Akumal’s sugar sand beaches, coconut palms and warm emerald waters captivated world explorer Pablo Bush Romero so much that he purchased land from a plantation owner and set about establishing a small resort community for scuba divers. Romero was a pioneer in underwater exploration who saw the vision of a unique underwater museum in Akumal Bay where tropical sea critters make their home among massive anchors and cannons from ancient shipwrecks. With just one addictive peek beneath the surface at the remarkable diversity of life in this shallow-water reef, you'll be hooked on Akumal snorkeling. The coral is busy with dozens of species of underwater flora and fauna, and it’s in relatively good health considering the rising water temperatures and a host of other environmental concerns. While snorkeling Akumal, I rounded a craggy blob of coral and met the business end of a lime-green moray eel showing off a smile of tiny razor teeth. I floated right on by, checking to be sure I wasn’t followed, and chased a brilliant blue angel fish into the midst of a liquid light show. Tiny quarter-sized fish in iridescent yellow and orange darted into coral crevices, and striped clownfish stayed true to their name, generally goofing about the neighborhood. There were floating purples and reds and whites and blues—it looked like all the colours from my crayon box at school were swimming around—and only my burning lungs broke my trance to head back up for air. Venturing a bit deeper while snorkeling Akumal, several large shadows drifted into my direction, and a foursome of giant, battleship-grey groupers moved slowly past, bulbous mouths pursed in an eternal smirk. Near the surface, a long, hovering straight line caught my eye. The silvery scales of a barracuda reflected the afternoon sunlight, and he kept a wary eye on the pale-skinned intruder in his part of Akumal Bay. An immense school of small, gray-brown fish, easily numbering in the thousands, hovered very near the “‘cuda,” drifting slowly back and forth at the whims of the currents. They seemed to have no destination that day, and were content to float next to the larger fish in suspended motion like a giant shadow forever swaying with the wind. Waning daylight forced a reluctant exit from snorkeling Akumal bay, but the sunset view on the beach conjured plans for my next trip to this getaway location.

Go Gothic Visiting the Notre Dame Cathedral of Paris

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 18:56:31 +0000

Europe’s churches and cathedrals are celebrated for various reasons: breathtaking architecture, deep-seated history, and stunning stained glass windows. Religious convictions aside, Europe’s cathedrals house beautiful works of art and offer a chance for quiet reflection. Throughout my travels I’ve toured many impressive churches, but Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris is a spire above the rest. The abundance of sights available in Paris can be daunting, especially if you are tight on time. If unsure where to begin, a shuttle boat called the Batobus which travels along the Seine River is a good start as it stops at eight of Paris’ main attractions: the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, and the Notre Dame Cathedral, to name a few. As we approached Notre Dame Cathedral, the misty grey afternoon made the large Gothic building seem all the more sombre and imposing. It’s no wonder the Cathedral was the site of Victor Hugo’s dramatic and passionate tale, "The Hunchback of Notre Dame." A stunning example of French Gothic architecture, the construction of the Notre Dame Cathedral began in 1163 and was completed in 1345. Notre Dame has suffered copious amounts of destruction over the years, beginning with discontented Huguenots who destroyed features they deemed to be “idolatrous” in 1548. During the French Revolution, Notre Dame Cathedral was re-dedicated to the cult of reason, and many of the treasures were destroyed or plundered. In 1845, a twenty-five year restoration program was instigated, returning Notre Dame Cathedral to its former glory. Three beautiful rose windows, originally constructed in the 13th century, are one of Notre Dame Cathedral’s most arresting features. A gift from King Saint Louis, the South Rose Window is nearly 19 metres in height and has 84 panes. The famous gargoyles are another impressive feature of Notre Dame Cathedral. Some are functional, serving as drain pipes to drain rainwater off the roof; others are only decorative, keeping watch over the city from atop the Cathedral’s towers. Because of its historical significance, architectural merit and stunning beauty, the Notre Dame Cathedral is a must-see sight in Paris. When I left the Cathedral, night had fallen. The façade and the towers were illuminated, creating a glowing silhouette against the darkness. I didn’t think it was possible, but Notre Dame Cathedral was even more beautiful by light of the night sky.

Get a Gush of a Rush at Old Faithful Geyser in Yellowstone National Park

Tue, 03 Nov 2009 16:43:07 +0000

The Old Faithful geyser is the quintessential Yellowstone National Park experience. It sits at the head of the Upper Geyser Basin, which is home to the majority of the geysers in the Park. Yellowstone on the whole holds more than 60 percent of the geysers in the world, but none more famous than Old Faithful. The Old Faithful geyser, named during an expedition in 1870, shows off the power of nature every 65 to 90 minutes, depending on the length of the previous eruption. An eruption can shoot up to 8,400 gallons (32,000 litres) of water 185 feet (56 metres) high. The internal temperature of the water has been measured at 244°F (118°C), with steam at 350°F. Old Faithful erupts about twenty times a day, but seismic activity in the area can change this, as it was measured at twenty-one times daily before an earthquake in 1959. Old Faithful doesn't appear to be getting any less reliable though, as the eruptions can be predicted with approximately 90 percent certainty. Ranger programs entertain and inform the gathering crowd in-between eruptions. These programs take place on a boardwalk just outside the three lodges that surround Old Faithful. There are benches available, but in the summer months the crowd can be so large that it's necessary to get there well in advance to secure a spot. The Old Faithful geyser can easily be spotted from the back of the crowd, along the boardwalk, and in other areas of the park and too. Enjoy the like-clockwork plume of Old Faithful at Yellowstone along with the collage of bubbling hot spots, lurking animal herds and remote waterfalls.

Dance to Vivacious Drum Beats at the Ati Atihan Festival in the Philippines

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 16:42:46 +0000

Almost all towns and cities in the Philippines have their own festivals, but one particular festival in the Visayas island group stands head and shoulders above the rest—the Ati Atihan Festival. Held every third Sunday of January, this jovial celebration transforms the quiet district of Kalibo, in the province of Aklan, into a lively and upbeat place filled with dancing, music and other merry-making activities. Known as the “Mother of All Festivals,” the Ati Atihan Festival has been celebrated for more than 700 years, and still ranks as one of the main festivals in the country. The Atis (or Aetas) are one of the indigenous people of the Philippines. Dark-skinned, and short with kinky hair, these Atis were the first settlers of the Philippine archipelago and still live in the highlands all over the country. The Ati Atihan Festival holds street dancing competitions from different groups called “tribu” (or tribe), and these performances are the main attraction of the entire celebration. Dancers in their flamboyant costumes, with headdresses made from indigenous materials, paint their bodies in black and dance along the streets of Kalibo. Almost all Philippine festivals of dancing, drum music and elaborate tribal costumes trace their origin back to the Ati Atihan Festival. You can choose to watch the Ati Atihan Festival from the sidelines and enjoy this carefree sight, but with all the energy it's hard to resist joining in the street dancing. Expect someone from the crowd to drag you up to dance or paint your face. A clean face is frowned upon during the Ati Atihan Festival, and some tourists and locals smear their arms, legs, and even their whole torso with soot. Black is undoubtedly the most prominent colour during the Festival, and “black dancers” identify the Ati Atihan Festival from other Philippine festivals. The word “Ati Atihan” means “to be like an Ati,” and covering the body with soot mimics the appearance of an Ati. The Ati Atihan Festival started when a group of Malayan chieftains, known as “datus” from the neighboring Borneo, sought refuge and found a new home as they escaped a tyrant king in their homeland. When they arrived in the island of Panay, where Aklan is located, it was inhabited by the Atis. Diplomatic and courteous as they were, the Bornean datus made a pact with the king of the Aeta, Marikudo, to settle in their land. In exchange for some gifts, specifically a golden hat locally known as “salakut” for Marikudo and an anklet for Marikudo’s wife, the Atis agreed to settle in the highlands leaving the lowlands to the new settlers. To celebrate the new relationship between the Atis and the Malays, they danced and drank day-in-and-day-out. At that time, the Atis were celebrating their good harvest, and so to join in the celebration, the Malays covered their bodies with soot to appear dark-skinned just like the Atis. Hence, the first Ati Atihan Festival was born—which is still going 700 years later. Attached to the Ati Atihan Festival is the Santo Niño (or the Holy Child Jesus) which is highly venerated in this Catholic country. When the Spaniards came to the Philippines to convert the natives to Catholicism, they performed the native Ati Atihan. Today, the tribal festivity also has its own religious aspect, and some devotees carry images of the Holy Child and dance their petitions to God for the success of their children and their business.

Rub Buddha's Belly Whilst Diving Davis Reef in the Florida Keys

Fri, 30 Oct 2009 19:15:02 +0000

When a diver visits a dive spot for the first time, the energy leading up to the descent into new and uncharted territory is electrical. Your imagination runs wild with all the possible creatures you might encounter, and you cross your fingers in hope of catching a glimpse of something surprising and unusual. When you dive Davis Reef, Florida Keys you can forget all your lucky charms, as the sheer quantity of marine life is staggering. They say that the Lower Keys are for partying and the Upper Keys are for diving. The discerning diver, intent on a first-class experience, opts for Ocean Quest Dive Center. With a modest seaside office in Islamorada, the Ocean Quest Dive Center staff's warm and welcoming humour makes you feel immediately part of the gang. Over half a century of protective management along the 100-mile arc of coral reef, has yielded top-notch Florida Keys diving. With a plethora of quality dive sites to choose from, picking a “best spot” can be rather difficult. Diving Davis Reef is an enlightening experience, literally. Just a few flips away from the massive brain coral, Davis Reef is home to a Buddha statue that is said to bring fertility to those who rub his belly, and knowledge to those who rub his head. Placed here in 1989, the original Buddha statue was stolen a few years back, but its replacement’s powers are alleged to be just as potent. Diving Davis Reef is the quintessential Florida Keys diving experience. With an average depth of 15–30 ft. it is an easy dive along a lively coral ledge; perfect for novice divers and the navigationally impaired. When diving Davis Reef you will be overwhelmed by the massive schools of grunt fish, grouped together gill-to-gill in the shadows of the coral ledge. At about 5 ft. high, the fascination of diving Davis Reef lies below the ledge’s undercut, where you can often catch a snoozing nurse shark and handfuls of moray eels. If you can manage to tear your attention from the impressive schools of jacks, grunts and goatfish, on closer inspection, the ledge holds clusters of impressive corals, including the distinguished fan coral. With an almost velour-looking purple surface, these extravagant beings can be upwards of 5 ft. in length. Florida Keys diving is an easily enjoyed world-class experience. The effort that has been put forth to preserve the marine and coral life here is immediately recognizable—a stark contrast to other world dive locations such as Thailand and Indonesia. I was sweetly surprised.

Ascend Mount Sinai by Cover of Night

Thu, 29 Oct 2009 14:49:49 +0000

It was midnight, and our Egyptian driver was impatient as 10 tourists tried to stuff themselves into a rather undersized van. Making sure we had our passports to show for the midnight checkpoints, we were soon en route, sleepy but excited, towards our destination: climbing Mount Sinai by night. The night route for climbing Mount Sinai is a popular one, undertaken by many in order to bask in the beautiful Sinai sunrise. We were dropped off at the front gate along with hundreds of other travellers making the night trek. Waving flashlights, the Bedouin guides called for their assigned tour groups to make their way through the metal detectors to begin climbing Mount Sinai. Our guide was a friendly, quiet fellow who had an odd knack of suddenly disappearing to go check on those lagging behind in the rear, and then suddenly reappearing again far ahead of us, apparently not the least bit out of breath. The path to the summit of the mythical mountain was not particularly steep, but I had endured a case of the Egyptian tummy the night before, and having ingested little else but crackers for the past 12 hours, I found myself sweating with exertion as I fought stomach cramps and looked forward to the next rest point. For most people in good health, however, climbing Mount Sinai is easy, and made much more pleasant by the absence of the scorching desert sun. We reached the top about an hour before the Sinai sunrise, and spent several minutes settling ourselves on the perfect rock outcropping. We stared out into the darkness and tried to make out some of the features of the shadowy landscape. With surprising rapidity, dawn broke over the horizon, and pale gold and rose fingers of light illuminated the spectacular desert mountains. Rocky mountain ranges stretched in every direction as far as the eye could see, as if a giant’s hand had reached out and crumpled the surface of the earth. I imagined the small band of Israelites camped below in Sinai’s shadow, dwarfed by the grandeur of the landscape. The Sinai sunrise was magnificent. Mount Sinai Egypt is located in the southern part of the Sinai Peninsula, the traditional location of the mountain mentioned in both Biblical/Jewish accounts, and in the Koran. 2,285 meters in height, the mountain currently known as Mount Sinai may or may not be the same mountain described in ancient texts, but it still has great religious and cultural significance. The Monastery of Saint Catherine is located at its foot, and a mosque and Greek Orthodox chapel perched at its peak. There are two routes for climbing Mount Sinai. The longer, 2.5 km route uses a series of switchbacks to make the climb less steep. A steeper, more direct route is also available, though the difficulty of ascending the 3,750 steps makes it more desirable as a way DOWN after the trek from the top.