The Fire House Chef

Join the Crew on Facebook

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Wed, 15 May 2013 16:51:06 PDT

I'd like to extend an invitation for all new viewers of the FHC to come join the 'Crew' on Facebook. LIKE the show and take part in a more interactive community where I share recent musings on all things 'culinary', flash my latest kitchen creation, educate you on tools of all shapes and uses, share fire related safety info, and more. The FHC is more then just life changing videos and recipes... All are welcome. Please, JOIN TODAY!

The FHC CREW on FACEBOOK

R.

Mother's Day Ideas

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Sat, 11 May 2013 05:17:23 PDT

With Mother's Day this Sunday, I wanted to share some firehouse worthy recipes for y'all to make for your mom. Breakfast and desserts seem to be the prudent choices with the one's who carried you for 9 months so I have provided an assortment here for you to choose from. I'll be at the firehouse this Sunday, but I've planned a nice day for the wife with her kids having them bounce around Atlanta for food and entertainment.

It's good, she'll love you forever for making this.

  Dutch Baby
  French Omelet
  French Toast
  Huevos Rancheros
  Plum Crepes
  Biscotti
  Espresso Nutella Mousse
  Lemon Churros
  Raspberry Mint Lava Cakes
  Strawberry Cream Puffs
  S'more Rice Crispy Treats
  Mascarpone Whipped Cream Lemon Bars

And to my mom, if I could be so bold as to quote the 16th President as I've not heard anyone else describe it so succinctly...

"All I am or can be I owe to my angel Mother."

-Abraham Lincoln, U.S. President

Thanks Abe.

Happy Mother's Day!

Tactical Review: Paolo's Gelato

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Tue, 07 May 2013 09:50:35 PDT

Midtown on an Atlanta spring day drives many to the sidewalks and parks that are sprinkled around the Virginia Highland area. And with a the hunger of a day of frolicking in the sun being only quenched by the siren song of something icy, many flock to Paolo’s Gelato. Renown for creamy, smooth concoctions of over 70+ flavors (only served a handful at a time mind you), this Atlanta fixture has been serving patrons since ’99. I took the wife on a sunny, spring day after walking the streets to find out if this famed Italian style gelato could in fact, quench our thirst.

As this is very near the Virginia Highland Triangle, parking can be an issue. Limited space that supplies the local shopping, dining and residential living all contributes to the congestion. But as one needs to bank the requisite calories to feel less guilty about eating this flavor packed cream, walking wasn’t viewed as a challenge, but as a rite of passage.

The almost college style atmosphere of the ‘Triangle’ leads one to the front entrance of this admit tingly petite store. Colorful (green neon?), eclectic (complete with a cartoon sized ice cream cone) but strangely inviting, the storefront begs one to enter in the same vain as the folded tarps of a circus tent. The exterior only hints at what awaits the patron when they walk in doors…

Their flavors change daily so call ahead.

I'll take the Nutella Jar near the bottom please.

Many an espresso and Italian themed soft drink to choose from.

The inviting though cramped interior is a cornucopia of Italian goodies (think cannoli, crepes, soft drinks, espresso, etc.) that line display counters and the shelved walls all bathed in a rainbow of colored offerings in the shape of gelato mounds. Think a ‘what if Willy Wonka if he were Italian’ moment.

An Italian looking woman, who gladly offered her recommendations and samples on the 10 or so featured flavors today, greeted us from behind the enormous counter. She regrettably informed me that my favorite flavor, Pistachio (sigh), was only available on Saturdays and it goes quickly. With that in mind, I ordered their Amaretto (a stunner) and Mint Chocolate (in my personal ice cream lexicon) in a waffle cone with my wife receiving the Zabaione (flavored with Marsala wine, simple and elegant) and Stracciatella (with flecks of chocolate, amazing).

A cannoli will be on our 'to-do' list the next visit

The gelato had just the right amount of sugar (not overly sweet) and fat content (it didn’t cover your palette) thus allowing the stunning flavors to sing. Gelato, by its very nature of not being as ‘airy’ as our traditional America style (it’s churned at a slower speed), has a denser feel thus making one feel more satisfied after eating (my wife couldn’t even finish her small cup). The care of this on-site made product was apparent. This was top-shelf quality.

Carrying our treats, we were lead back outside the seek one of the many stationed benches that litter the area to join the other Paolo’s Gelato patrons enjoying the beautiful weather. We let our thoughts drift to Italian walk ways and music. So, when the sun comes out to play again, as it only can here in Atlanta, we’ll be back (and on a Saturday for their Pistachio too). Buon Appetito!

Review Date: April 2013

3.5 Alarms.

Beef & Chorizo Empanadas

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Fri, 03 May 2013 15:47:03 PDT

Cinco de Mayo, the day were we celebrate the heritage of Mexican culture (and especially their food), is almost upon us. It should be much longer then a day, a month would suffice, so we could show case their beautiful culture, but I’ll work with what I’m given. I’ll take any excuse to highlight my favorite cuisine to play with.

But on this most holy of days, I wanted to highlight the much-overlooked empanada. Empanadas are essentially quesadillas, just sealed (though some Mexican cooks seal there quesadillas too) before either frying or baking them. The stuffing, much like an enchilada or taco, is entirely up to you (I obviously went the savory approach). But in honoring the defeat of the French forces at the Battle of Puebla on May 5^th, 1862, it should be Mexican inspired. Chorizo, a Mexican staple, is a must in my in a this rendition (or eggs, huevos rancheros, etc.).

A few after the fire critiques: Fresh spices are always preferred over pre-ground but use what you can. No Allspice, use cinnamon instead. You can make the dough early or the entire empanada early and freeze till you are ready (like 2-3 days ahead, no mote). Just allow them to thaw for 30 minutes prior to baking. These are awesome, just thought you ought to know…

*Makes 12-13 Empanadas

Fuel

Filling

Ground Beef (1 lbs.)

Chorizo (6-8 ounces)

Onion (very large chopped)

Garlic (4 cloves minced)

Tomato Sauce (1 14.5 ounce can)

Raisins (⅓ Cup chopped)

Green Olive ((⅓ Cup chopped)

Apple Cider Vinegar (2 Tbs.)

Olive Brine (2 Tbs.)

Oregano (2 Tbs. chopped)

Cilantro (2 Tbs. chopped)

Cumin (1 tsp.)

Allspice (1 tsp.)

EVOO (1-2 Tbs.)

Béchamel

Dried Ancho Chili Pepper

White Cheddar (1 Cup shredded)

Whole Milk (2 cups)

Unsalted Butter (3 ounces)

AP Flour (3 ounces)

Cinnamon Stick (3”)

Garlic (1 clove minced)

Nutmeg (pinch)

Salt (pinch)

Dough

A/P Flour (3 Cups + more for dusting)

Masa Harina (1 Cup)

Unsalted Butter (12 Tbs., chilled and cubed)

Water (1 ¼ Cups ice cold)

Sugar (2 Tbs.)

Salt (1½½ tsp.)

Tools

Food Processor

Dutch Oven

Sauté Pan

Various Bowls

Spatula/Wooden Spoon

Baking Sheets (2)

Rolling Pin

Bench Scrapper

Whisk

Plastic Wrap

Tactics

Dough

Add the masa harina, flour (1 cup), sugar and salt to the food processor and pulse to combine. Add the butter and pulse till it resembles course sand. Add remaining flour and pulse to combine. Place mixture in a large bowl and add chilled water (add more if needed during process). Work till the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl. Place dough onto prepared work surface and work into a large bowl. Slice into 2 equal halves and flatten into 6” x 1” discs. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for a minimum of an hour or up to 24 hours.

Remove the dough and slice into 6 equal parts. On a prepared work surface, roll the pieces into small balls. With the use of a rolling pin, work each ball into ⅛” thick circles of dough then place a roughly 6” circular object over each piece of dough and slice off the excess. Place the dough circles on prepared sheets of plastic wrap ensuring to place a new sheet between every circle of dough. Reserve in fridge till ready for assembly.

Filling

Add the cumin powder, allspice powder and salt to the beef and mix to combine. Place the Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the EVOO and heat for 30 seconds. Add the chorizo and cook till slightly browned, 7 minutes. Remove and reserve ensuring to leave the oil in the Dutch oven. Add the onions and cook till translucent, 5-7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook another 30 seconds. Place the beef and suing a spatula/wooden spoon, break up and cook till slightly browned, 7-8 minutes. Add the tomato sauce and reserved chorizo and bring to a simmer. Cook for 5-7 minutes or until slightly reduced. Remove from the heat and allow it to cool for 10 minutes. Off heat, add the raisins, olives, oregano, cilantro, apple cider vinegar, and olive brine in and mix to combine. Reserve.

Béchamel

Place a sauté pan over medium heat for 2 minutes. Add the dried ancho and cinnamon stick and sauté for 5-7 minutes. Meanwhile, boil some water, roughly 2 cups and reserve. Remove the ancho and cinnamon stick from the heat and add to a small bowl. Place the boiling water over and allow the pepper to rehydrate for 20-30 minutes ensuring to rotate the pepper occasionally. De-seed and mince the pepper and reserve.

In a small pot over medium heat, add the butter and cook till the water has evaporated and it has slightly browned, 4-5 minutes. Slowly add the flour and whisk to combine. Cook for 1-2 minutes to remove the flour taste. Add the garlic and cook an additional 30 seconds. Slowly, and in installments, add the milk and whisk till it is absorbed before adding the next installment. Add the cheese, ancho pepper, nutmeg and salt and mix to combine. Adjust consistency by adding additional milk. Reserve over low heat till ready whisking occasionally.

To Assemble

Pre-heat the oven to 425°F. 10-15 prior to completely stuffing all the empanadas, lightly oil the baking sheets and place in the pre-heated oven to heat up.

Place one circle of dough on a prepared work surface and add ⅓-½ cup of the filling on one half. Ensuring there is approximately ½” of available dough from the diameter of the dough. Close the dough upon itself and seal it closed. Using a fork, crimp the unfilled sides.

Using care, remove the baking sheets from the heated oven and carefully place the empanadas crimped side up on. Then bake for 25-30 minutes or until lightly browned (note that depending on your oven, you may have to swap racks to ensure equal browning). Place them on a wire rack to cool for 10 minutes. Plate then lather with a generous helping of the Ancho Cheese Béchamel. Serve with a side of salsa and indulge.

Next Shift on the FHC: Beef & Chorizo Empanadas

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Wed, 01 May 2013 18:14:03 PDT

Cinco de Mayo, enough said...

Tactical Review: 5 and 10

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Tue, 30 Apr 2013 06:44:19 PDT

5 and 10, the iconic Athen’s based restaurant of acclaimed Chef Hugh Acheson (known for his Food & Wine, James Beard and Top Chef fame), has been a trail blazer for this college town now for many a year (since 2000 with annual awards to show for it). As a recent acolyte of all things southern, I had been feverishly awaiting the chance to convince my wife to take the scenic hour tour to his restaurant and sample what I’ve only read and heard.

Though Canadian by birth, Hugh has taken Georgia as his adoptive home (much like myself) and henceforth, has driven his menu to reflect it’s great influence. But 5 and 10 was constructed as an ‘open interpretation of Southern food, melding Georgia cookery with French and Italian influences” where his menu is heavily influenced by his James Beard award winning book A New Turn in the South.

The restaurant sits nestled in with one of the shopping districts (very near their local fire department station) near the college and exhibits a contemporary farm feel complete with ginormous utensils adorning the walls flanked by herbs growing in planters. If you didn’t know what you were looking for, you’d drive right by it.

The contemporary farm atmosphere continues as one walks inside to find eclectic bobbles and knick-knacks arranged haphazardly around the establishment. It sets a relaxing but playful mood, but one can not help and crave a little more light if you don’t get seated in the one room that has enough windows to allow the sun inside.

The menu, however, was the first departure, as my wife and I scanned the offerings, we found ourselves at a loss to try and find were the Southern began and the obvious Italian and French influences ended. Ever adventurous though, we began the meal with three appetizers.

First off was the special of the house (and by house, I also mean in house, as its all done on site at the restaurant), Charcuterie. With five offerings to choose from, we went with the recommended Pork Rillette. Slow cooked pork rendered with its on jus, solidified and shaped into cubes then fried served with a sliced fresh baguette, pickled veggies and whole grain mustard. The pick-and-play options were interactive and fun but the pork, surprisingly, was way under seasoned.

Soup was singing it siren song to me this day, so we went with the Bean Soup with Buffalo Meatballs and the en vogue, Pork Belly. The meatballs were proportioned well but lacked a pronounced flavor (perhaps that’s just buffalo in general) and the pork (no longer crispy) presented nice departures from the clear, tasteless broth. The lack of seasoning again was a huge issue. Thankfully the beans themselves were delicious and cooked to perfection.

With the plethora of Italian inspired meals, we ordered the suggested Octopus with Lentils. Having learned that octopus is a finicky ocean dweller when it comes to preparing it properly as to avoid the dreaded ‘chewy’ factor, one must tackle it with either a very fast or arduously slow cooking process. We were disheartened to find that the scantly small two portions representing the octopus were indeed chewy and covered in a Romesco sauce so cloying and overpowering, the delicate flavors of the cephalopod were lost. The appetizers left us wanting more…

The entrée brought us to seek out some more southern fare, so we went with the Mississippi Rabbit. This was the first recipe to shine from beginning to end. The stuffed braised thigh was perfectly cooked (though it dried out fast due to them pre-slicing them) with cranberry beans (again fantastic) sitting upon a bed of well-seasoned rabbit jus. Delicate and well developed.

Dessert was an after thought as we were laboring under the weight of 3 appetizers and an entrée, but the waiter informed us that the restaurant specializes in homemade cookies and ice cream. So, we took the plunge and ordered a ginger cookie with a scoop each of Chocolate Mocha and Hazelnut Ice Cream. Simple, clean, and a revelation on what a cookie and ice cream should be, this was the highlight of the meal.

On a side note, my wife and I shared a bottle of a fine 2011 Pfeffingen Dry Riesling, which paired well with the eclectic meal. The wine list was well stocked and varied, a nice surprise. The service was offered via a relaxed, genial style, not formal at all, which fit right in with the casual country atmosphere.

Overall, 5 and 10 offered a glimpse into the mind of a renowned, southern chef and how he pairs the local area’s bountiful produce with European influences. Though his personality still resides in the menu, the execution was spotty and as an example, dessert was the highlight. For the price (it will put a dent in your wallet and no, there were no college students dining this night save for those sitting next to their parents), I’d be willing to consider other options. I was left wanting more…

2 Alarms.

Warm Mustard Potato Salad

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Wed, 24 Apr 2013 12:29:05 PDT

More and more, I find myself making excuses to head outside and seek the warmth of the sun. More yard work at the house and more outdoor practical fire ground training exercises at the firehouse. Spring here in the south is just one of those times when you’ll regret not hanging out when the weather is just right because before you know it, it’s gone.

Being outside, especially outside dining, demands a different style food from the cozy, controlled confines of inside. When partaking in good eats out on the deck/patio/porch, it is beneficial to have something that is not dependent on being refrigerated for long amounts of time. One of the most revered ingredients down south just doesn’t make the cut, mayonnaise. So what to do with one of the most demanded springtime offerings, potato salad?

Hit the potatoes with the next most important condiment in the food chain[1], mustard. This acidic, spicy concoction tops many a handheld delight (hot dog, hamburger, sandwich, etc.) but can also be the headliner for your salad. Roasting the potatoes and then serving everything warm accentuates the flavors. Add some needed crunch and color (green beans) and you have the makings of a new, healthier version of a true classic.

A few after the fire critiques: You are more then welcome to boil your potatoes rather then roasting but I feel you’d be sacrificing flavor. Haricot vert or snap peas are recommended if you want something other then the classic green bean. Also, replace the whole grain mustard with a spicier version for a more adult slant (AKA- your fire seekers).

Fuel

Red Potatoes (roughly 2 lbs.)

Green Beans (¾ lbs. chopped into ½” sticks)

Scallions (Bunch sliced and split between white and green)

Shallots (2-3 sliced)

Parsley (Bunch chopped)

Whole Grain Mustard (2 Tbs.)

Sherry Vinegar (2 Tbs.)

EVOO (½ Cup + 1 Tbs)

Pepper & Salt

Tools

Baking Sheet

Small Saute Pan

Medium/large Metal Bowl

Spatula

Steamer

Tactics

Pre-heat your oven to 400°F. Wash and scrub your potatoes. Place ¼ cup of EVOO and a pinch of salt into a medium bowl and mix to combine. Slice into ½” cubes and place into the bowl and toss to coat. Lay the potatoes into a single layer and roast in the oven for 30 minutes. Ensure that after 15 minutes, to toss them one time. Remove when done and cover with a kitchen towel and reserve.

Meanwhile, add a Tbs. of EVOO to a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the shallots and white scallions. Cook for 8-10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for an additional minute.

In a medium/large metal bowl, add the mustard and sherry vinegar and mix to combine. Slowly add the remaining EVOO to create an emulsion. Stir to keep warm. Remove when the shallots/onions are done.

Place your steamer over high heat to bring water to a slow boil and plenty of steam is rolling. Salt the green beans then add to the steamer and cook 5-7 minutes. Remove and reserve.

Add the reserved potatoes and toss with the green beans, scallions, sautéed onions, parsley, green onions, pepper and salt to taste. Add more sherry vinegar for a more assertive kick. Serve warm.

[1] Condiment Food Chain Top Five: 1. Mayo 2. Mustard 3. Ketchup 4. Barbecue Sauce. 5. Sriracha.

Next Shift of The FHC: Warm Mustard Potato Salad

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Sun, 21 Apr 2013 17:17:56 PDT

Wanting a potato salad sans mayo can be cause for uproar here in the south (let alone the fire house). But, just hear me out... This version allows one to serve it warm without worrying about it going bad due to sun light (or long exposure to room temperature sitting on the counter top). Mustard provides an aggressive flavor and an acidic kick while fresh green beans, scallions and parsley elevates this to the "healthy" realm. It's a worthy addition to porch side dinning.

Raspberry Mint Lava Cakes

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Tue, 16 Apr 2013 09:06:18 PDT

When reviewing my recipes with my wife recently, she asked a very poignant question, “Where is the chocolate?” Shaking my head with a quick retort forming in my head, I slowly hit the brakes while I began thinking of all the chocolate desserts I’ve made. I’ve had chocolate coat many a confection (strawberries, cookies, Rice Crispies, etc.) but it has never truly been the star. This caught me completely off guard, as I’m a self-proclaimed recovering chocoholic (always in recovery mind you). So, my witty brain changed gears in a flash and the following argument took place:

“I just did a dessert” (MascarponeWhipped Cream Lemon Bars, there the bomb).

“So”.

“So, I need balance on the show, you know, like the force.”

“You need a chocolate recipe.”

“But Valentine’s is already passed”.

“There’s always room for chocolate”.

“Ah… well, um… I have no defense for that. Chocolate it is”.

“I knew you’d get there Honey.”

*“Life’s always better when I listen to you Girl” (*obligatory point scoring)

So, there I was, playing over in my mind all the chocolate desserts I’ve made over the years at the firehouse that were well received. There were a few to be sure but it had to be chocolaty, had to be easy to prepare and above all else, had to go pair well with ice cream. For ice cream holds a special pedestal in the fire service that no other dessert could wish to attain. To deny a firefighter his or her right to a warm chocolate dessert with cold ice cream would be blasphemy. Molten Lava Cakes came into focus.

All that was needed now was to consider what to balance the chocolate with. As is the purpose of a molten lava cake, the inside must strike a perfect balance between liquid and solid states (think of plasma), so when the utensil is used to puncture the middle, it oozes out over the plate. So off to Facebook I went to ask y’all what you wanted to chocolate to go dancing with. Of all the choices, raspberries were the overwhelming favorite (much to my chagrin). Now, don’t get me wrong, I love the combo, but I more of a chocolate and mint guy, so, as I’m in charge around these parts, I found a way to slip in the mint too. Hope you enjoy!

A few after the fire critiques: Ice cream is the order, but I've also topped this dessert on occasion with a flavored whipped cream and cardamom came to mind. The clean, refreshing flavor seemed to amplify the minty tone of the cake and melded well together. I prefer to use straight dark chocolate versus semi-sweet as it provides a stronger chocolate flavor (in other words, want more chocolate, use DARK). Lastly, use a high quality preserve (such as a local farmer’s market or Trader Joes version), trust me.

Fuel

Cakes

Semi-Sweet Chocolate Chips (4 ounces)

Mint Chocolate Cookies (4 ounces or 14 cookies crushed)

Sugar (½ cup)

A/P Flour (½ cup + 1 Tbs.)

Cocoa Powder (1 Tbs.)

Unsalted Butter (8 ounces + more for ramekins)

Raspberry Jam/Preserves (3 ounces)

Raspberries (4 ounces)

Lemon Juice (1 tsp.)
Vanilla (1 tsp.)

Eggs (3)

Egg Yolk

Salt (pinch)

*Whipped Cream

Cardamom Pods (2-3 or 1 tsp. pre-ground)

Heavy Cream (½ Cup chilled well)

Powdered Sugar (2- Tbs.)

Salt (pinch)

Tools

Stand Mixer

Double Broiler (medium pot and medium bowl) or Microwave

Ramekins (6)

Baking Sheet

Various Bowls

Sifter

*Hand Mixer (for optional whipped cream)

Tactics

Cakes

In a small bowl, place the raspberries (reserve 18 for garnish), raspberry jam/preserves and lemon juice and mix to combine. Place in the refrigerator for 15 minutes to firm up.

Pre-heat oven to 400°F. Butter the ramekins till coated. Mix cocoa powder and cake flour (1 Tbs.) in a separate bowl, line the ramekins with a dusting of the powder and tap out the excess. Place the ramekins onto the baking sheet.

In either the microwave (20 second bursts till melted stirring every time) or over a double broiler (bowl over pot filled with 1” water but not touching the bottom of the bowl set over low heat), melt the chocolate and butter together. Add the mint cookies and mix to combine (and melt, well, sort of). Remove from heat and allow it to slightly cool.

In the bowl of a stand mixer with the whisk attachment on, add the eggs, egg yolk, sugar, vanilla, salt and mix on med-high (speed 6-8)
till thick and yellow, 2-3 minutes. Slowly incorporate the chocolate mass till no streaks of egg remain. Then in stages and using a sifter, add the flour till incorporated.

Pour ⅔ of the batter into the prepared ramekins. Spoon a Tbs. of the raspberry filling into the middle of each and top of the remaining batter to cover. Place in the oven to cook for 14-16 minutes or until the tops appeared cooked (with a slightly cracked appearance) but still slightly shake in the middle.

Remove to a wire rack to cool for 5 minutes. Use a knife to run along the edge to loosen the cakes and then top with a plate, then carefully invert the plate to allow the cake to fall out. Top with powdered sugar, place reserved raspberries on as a garnish, add ice cream or whipped cream and serve immediately. Don’t wait. MUST EAT NOW!

*Optional Cardamom Whipped Cream

Using spice grinder, grind 2-3 green cardamom pods to a fine powder. In a very cold bowl and hand mixer with very cold metal whisks, whisk the cream for 1 minute. Add the cardamom, powdered sugar and salt then whisk until soft peaks are formed.

Facebook Throwdown

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Fri, 12 Apr 2013 18:52:01 PDT

Hey Crew,

Recently via Facebook, I asked all those that follow (or 'like' to use the correct vocabulary) to submit a recipe that could feed roughly 6 hungry firefighters in celebration of hitting a FB milestone. Many a worthy recipe (truly, it was overwhelming) was given, but there ‘can be only one.’ So when the recipes were passed around the firehouse dinning room table, a vote was taken and the winner was Cynthia McCloud Woodman (from the clan McCloud as the not so subtle Highlander hint above inferred) from What a Girl Eats with her Blackstrap Brisket. (BTW, it's a great site, well worthy of your time)

Well, in actuality, it was someone else’s recipe as Cynthia was quick to give credit, a gentleman by the name of Paul Moore, who evidently is a professional food photographer and cook. Wherever the recipe was born mattered not, for the firehouse had spoken, so it was with great delight that I made this meal for dinner tonight. So prepared was I that a world class recipe was chosen, I extended an invitation to our neighboring firehouse to join us for dinner. No pressure.

The recipe did call for a few abstract ingredients and a little prep work before arrival at the firehouse the next day. Maple syrup, a shot of double espresso and rum are not the firehouse norm (we'll maybe at my firehouse but we don’t cook with alcohol for obvious reasons, but as it was asked for in the marinade and then cooked for 8 hours, no alcohol remained so no harm done). But the kicker was the blackstrap molasses. This is the liquid byproduct (what’s leftover) from refining sugar (after the third boiling that is) and unlike refined sugar or corn syrup, this actually has some retained nutrients (some consider it a super food, no, really). But it is the dark color and rich flavor profile (bittersweet and very similar to a reduced balsamic vinegar) that most cooks are after. It was a great find (Walmart, if you believe it).

I’ll provide a link to the recipe below but, all in all, it was a winner with the crew. After the marinade did it’s work overnight, a quick sear and chopping of onions was all that was needed before it took a bath in the Crock Pot for 8 hours. Tender, sliced brisket with a reduced jus (I blended the jus with a cup of the onions for extra flavor) was a great center point to a balanced dinner. With a helping of hearty side dishes, this brisket stretched out to feed 8 firefighters. It was just enough to keep us running throughout the night.

This was a very fun experiment, one I’m sure to do again. I’d like to extend a heart filled thanks to Cynthia, Paul and all those that submitted their recipes for ‘my’ firehouse with this challenge. Though there was only one chosen this time, I encourage all of you to make what you think your local firefighters would like to eat for dinner and stop by and share a meal with them. Nothing shows more appreciation to us in the fire service then a home cooked meal, especially when our duties take us away from making them.

Here's the recipe! Paul's Blackstrap Molasses

Stay hungry, my friends!

Tough Mudder 2013

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Fri, 05 Apr 2013 11:44:59 PDT

It's that time of the year... the time when one has to test their abilities... the limits of what they think they can do and go past them... yes everyone, it's time for...

TOUGH MUDDER!

This will be the second year in a row that I'll be placing myself in the mud but this time, I'm bringing more along for the ride.

We call ourselves The Dirty Dozen (comprised of mostly firefighters, we're almost a dozen but who's counting). For those of you who don't know about Tough Mudder, here's a link to the post I ran last year with a recount of the event (here's a hint, it's was phenomenal):

Tough Mudder & Valentines Day

On a side note, it's amazing that in only one year, the Wounded Warrior Project, of which Tough Mudder is a proud supporter, has already DOUBLED the amount of money that they've raised! That's awesome! Watch the video (and click on the link too) below for a description of this year's events:

ToughMudder.com

This should be fun...

Báhn Mì

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Mon, 01 Apr 2013 10:56:36 PDT

The Báhn Mì, otherwise known loosely as “bread” in Vietnam, is a generic name of a filled bread roll served street side for any of the three major meals of the day (and everything in between). This French-Vietnamese fusion food has taken root here in America, and for good reason. The well-balanced sandwich has a thin-crusted French roll stuffed with grilled pork (or pretty much anything under the sun, literally), spiced mayo, sliced cucumber, pickled carrots and daikon, sliced jalapeño chopped cilantro… Shall I continue or are you already sold?

The combination of well-seasoned protein (or tofu) coupled with fresh vegetables all hugged by heavenly bread is not new too most, (Eat Fresh?) but this particularly delicious combination most likely will be. And what a shame it hasn’t gotten more exposure otherwise this would’ve found a home (and heavy rotation) into firehouses (and hopefully, your home) sooner.

A few after the fire critiques: I added a teriyaki sauce to the pork, but because of the brine, it will be plenty flavorful for most so feel free to skip the sauce if you so choose. Also, I went with pork, but it’s not uncommon to use traditional pâté, grilled chicken, shrimp, tofu (always thinking of you too Vegans), meatballs in tomato sauce, sardines, fired eggs, etc., it’s all good. I also decided to use radishes in lieu of the fact that most grocery stores where I live don’t carry daikon (or even know what it is and those that do have their stock sit on the shelf so long it becomes flimsy). Lastly, consider topping with a spicy chili paste of your choice.

Fuel

Pork Shoulder or Loin (3-4 lbs.)

French Rolls (6-8)

Carrots (pre-shredded bag or 4-5 medium carrots)

Daikon (1 medium) or Radishes (small bag 20-25)

English Cucumber (De-seeded and sliced)

Jalapeño (thinly sliced)

Cilantro (just the leaves please)

Salt

Pork Brine

Whole Black Peppercorns (1 tsp.)

Whole Coriander Seeds (1 tsp.)

Crush Red Pepper Flakes (1 tsp.)

Serrano Chiles (2 minced)

Garlic (2-3 cloves, minced)

Sugar (2 Tbs.)

Salt (1 Tbs.)

Fish Aioli

Mayo (½ Cup)

Fish Sauce (1 tsp.)

Lemon Juice (1 tsp.)

Teriyaki Sauce

Brown Sugar (⅓ cup)

Soy Sauce (⅓ cup)

Honey (1 Tbs.)

Fish Sauce (1 tsp.)

Toasted Sesame Oil (¼ tsp.)

Pickling Fluid

Rice Wine Vinegar (1 Cup)

Hot Water (1 Cup)

Sugar (2 Tbs.)

Salt (1 Tbs.)

Tools

Large Deep Pot

Large Deep-Sided Skillet or Cast Iron Pan

Baking Sheet

Small Skillet

Various Bowls

Mandolin (if possible, you’ll want it)

Mortar & Pestle

Colander

Cooking Spray

Tactics

Teriyaki Pork

In a skillet over medium heat, add the peppercorn, coriander and crushed red pepper and, toss frequently to avoid burning, toast till aromatic, 3-5 minutes. Place them in a mortar & pestle along with the Serrano chilies, garlic and a pinch of salt. Ground until a paste has been formed. In a large pot or bowl, place the paste and 2 cups of hot water and mix till combine. Add ice cubes and cold water and mix till the cubes have melted and the water is cool. Add the pork (ensuring there is enough brine to cover) and then refrigerate a minimum of 4 hours (or up to over night).

Pre-heat the oven to 350°F. Remove the pork, wash over running water then pat dry with paper towels. Spray the baking sheet with cooking spray, place the pork in the middle, season with salt and then roast in the oven for 20 minutes per pound. Remove when the internal temp registers 145°F (we’ll be cooking it again later). Let it rest for 15-20 minutes then thinly slice into bite size strips.

In a large deep-sided pan over medium-high heat, add the soy sauce, brown sugar, honey, fish sauce, toasted sesame sauce and water (1 Tbs.) and bring to a low, simmering boil. Reduce by about half and thickened. Add the pork, toss to coat and raise the heat to high. Sear the meat till the sauce has slightly caramelized (3-5 minutes. Remove from heat and reserve.

Pickled Veggies

Using either a mandolin or knife, cut the carrots and daikon/radishes into julienned slices. Place the veggies into a colander, aggressively salt (2-3 tbs.) while tossing to coat and allow to sit for 30 minutes. Rinse under running cold water until the salt has been removed.

Meanwhile, add the sugar, salt and hot water in a bowl and mix till the crystals dissolve. Add the rice wine vinegar and mix. Place the veggies in and ensure it covers. Allow it to cool then refrigerate and reserve.

Fish Aioli

Place the mayo, fish sauce and lemon juice into a small bowl and mix till combined. Refrigerate and reserve.

To Assemble The Báhn Mì

Slice the rolls lengthwise, apply a lathering of the aioli, and layer the pork, cucumber, pickled veggies, jalapeño and cilantro. Place on the baking sheet and toss in the still warm oven and toast for 2 minutes until warmed. Serve immediately. DONE.

Next Shift on The FHC: Báhn Mì with Pork

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Thu, 28 Mar 2013 16:45:57 PDT

When looking for a refreshing, handheld meal, that can utilize leftover bread and inexpensive protein, then look no farther then the classic French-Vietnamese street food legend, Báhn Mì. Sweet and spiced pork slices (slightly charred), garden vegetables galore (some pickled, some not) and a bread roll (crunchy exterior, tender interior), this is the perfect sandwich that hits all the right spots. Stay hungry!

Mascarpone Whipped Cream Lemon Bars

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Sun, 24 Mar 2013 15:58:05 PDT

Spring time is coming, though winter is loath to release her icy grip, and to help spur on thoughts of the upcoming seasonal change, I thought I’d bring to bear a favorite dessert of mine, lemon bars. These no nonsense bars are all about the tartness of lemon with a crunchy bar carrying their weight, almost perfect. But I wanted to elevate the lightness of them by adding an airy whipped cream and emphasis the crunch with some toasty coconut. I think I fell onto a fantastic dessert perfect for springtime (and EASTER)!

While perfecting this particular recipe during the seemingly endless taste testing, my wife’s highly specialized baking knowledge really helped refine the recipe. As the typical A-type, alpha male firefighter that I am, I’m sometimes impervious to criticism (constructive or not) on my work. But her unquestioned experience and refined palette helped to mold this recipe to what it is today. Thanks girl!

Some after the fire critiques: There is a little bit of down time with chilling and baking so I’d suggest making this early in the day (which also gives the bars more time to set up). The mascarpone is added not only to boost flavor to the whipped cream, but give it body so it holds up and doesn’t fall flat. In the video, I add the mascarpone and powdered sugar at the same time I added the heavy cream. I'd advised that you whip the heavy cream a good 30 seconds prior to adding the rest (as noted below in the recipe). Aslo in the video, the coconut got a little too toasty. A mild toasting will do just fine (as displayed in the final photo above).

Adapted from Cooks Illustrated

Fuel

Crust

A/P Flour (1¾ Cup)

Powdered Sugar (⅔ Cup)

Cornstarch (¼ Cup)

Salt (1 tsp.)

Unsalted Butter (12 Tbs. or 1½ sticks at slightly cooler then room temp.)

Cooking Spray (or an additional Tbs. of Unsalted Butter for the parchment paper)

Filling

Lemon Zest (from 3-4 lemons)

Lemon Juice (1 Cup from 3-4 lemons)

Milk (Whole ½ cup)

Eggs (6 lightly beaten)

Sugar (1½ Cups)

A/P Flour (4½ Tbs.)

Salt (¼ tsp.)

Whipped Cream

Heavy Cream (1 cup chilled)
Mascarpone (6-8 ounces at room temp.)

Lemon Zest (from 1 lemon)

Powdered Sugar (2 Tbs.)

Salt (⅛ tsp.)

Coconut (Shredded 1 cup)

Tools

Food Processor with steel blade

Hand Mixer

13” x 9” Baking Dish

Baking Sheet

Various Bowls

Parchment Paper

Whisk

Tactics

Crust

Pre-heat oven to 350°F with the rack in the middle position. Lightly butter the baking dish and line with one over-large sheet of parchment paper. Note: use two parchment papers crosswise with butter in between if your parchment paper is not large enough to cover the dish with overlap for handles.

Place the flour, powdered sugar, cornstarch and salt in the food processor and pulse to combine. Add the butter and then process to combine or until the mixture resembles coarse meal (and is a light yellow color). Pour into the prepared baking dish and using hands, press into an even ¼” layer that tampers to ½” tall on the sides (like a wave coming towards you from the shore). Place in the fridge for 30 minutes to solidify. Then immediately place into the oven and cook until golden, approximately 20-25 minutes. Reserve.

Reduce oven temp to 325°F.

Lemon Filling

While the crust is baking, whisk the eggs, sugar and flour in a bowl until combined. Add the lemon zest, lemon juice, milk and salt to blend. When the crust comes out, pour the lemon mixture over to cover then place into the oven to bake for an additional 20-25 minutes or until the center is set (doesn’t giggle). Transfer to a wire rack (or your stove top) to cool for 45-60 minutes.

Coconut

Place the coconut on the baking sheet and bake until slightly golden 5-8 minutes. Reserve.

Whipped Cream

Place the heavy cream in a well-chilled bowl and whip for 30 seconds. Add the lemon zest, powdered sugar, mascarpone and salt and mix until soft peak are formed. Reserve.

To assemble the Lemon Bars

Place the whipped cream and smooth out a small layer over the lemon bar then sprinkle with the toasted coconut to barely cover. Pull the lemon bar out of the baking dish and transfer to a cutting board. Carefully fold the parchment paper down. Using a knife or large pizza cutter, slice the bar into desired sizes. Eat immediately or store covered in fridge for an additional 2-3 days. Indulge.

Next Shift on the FHC: Whipped Cream Lemon Bars

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Tue, 19 Mar 2013 11:10:18 PDT

Looking for a light, Spring-time dessert, I turned to one of my favorite confections, the classic lemon bar. But wanting something... well, more, I added some mascarpone whipped cream and toasted coconut. What was created was a well balanced, delectable marriage of cream and tart with a toasty edge. Until then, stay hungry, my friends!

Tactical Review: Sublime Doughnuts

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Sat, 16 Mar 2013 18:04:09 PDT

The elusively, fried round dough, often referred as the donut, is considered by many as the fuel of the police force (sorry, as a firefighter, I couldn’t resist). But as with all things foodie in this culinary age, the donut has found an opportunity to turn artisan. Cupcakes, pizza, and ice cream are just a few examples of other caloric filled creations that have followed the same path. So when I heard that Sublime Doughnuts, near Georgia Tech in Midtown, was the spot for artisan, raised donuts, I had to give it a go.

Having been born and raised in Southern California, the unofficial donut capital of the world, I‘ve experienced some great donuts in my time (almost every Sunday morning growing up when my Dad would come home with a brown box filled with breakfast goodies in all sorts of shapes and sizes). So, I know a good donut when I taste one. Rumors had built up my expectations and I was surprisingly excited to taste these creations.

Sublime Doughnuts is like most traditional shops in set up; open floor plan designed for easy egress, large glass display case showing off all the colorful wares and coffee aroma wafting in the air. But Sublime separates itself here with their LA inspired vibe; lazy coffee style couches, graffiti lined walls dotted with cartoonish robots and aliens and young, hip servers. I felt as though I had come home, it was a nice vibe.

The selection was varied and plentiful. With options ranging from Reese’s, Nutella, Mocha and Smore, there was no limit to creativity. As per the normal routine, my wife and I asked what their best one was and the hip dude behind the counter suggested the Strawberries and Cream to start. We also added a regular raised twist (to get a control for our taste test), Caramel Apple Fritter, Dulce de Leche and lastly, the Salted Caramel and Reduced Balsamic Vinegar (pictured below).

First and foremost, the dough for a raised donut was appropriately yeasty, not devoid of the ‘bite’ like most donuts in the ATL area (ALA- Kripsy Cream), a very nice start. The Strawberry and Cream was a revelation, the perfect balance of fresh berries, real cream and lightly powdered donut, a stand out! The Dulce de Leche and Salted Caramel were both great while the Fritter, though light and airy, was lacking weight like a good fritter should. Overall, I was impressed.

My new favorite calorie buster, Strawberry and Cream.

Service has always been the only red mark held against the gleaming reputation of the shop (and to some, their prices, but hey, it's 'artisan'). Typically, where there’s smoke, there’s fire, and that’s often the case but not with my visit today. Perhaps it was the time and day (Tuesday afternoon) but there was no line and an incredibly laid back, hip dude ready to answer any question and he was great. No issues for us.

The only objection I had was that the dough was the same for every donut we had, no variation of flavor, just a different themed topping or stuffing. Other donut shops have experimented here to great success and I’d love to see Sublime do the same in the future. Granted, I have yet to have their famed Sweet Potato Cake (not always available, a shame) or their Red Velvet cake so I’ll reserve final judgment until then.

On a side note, if you are heading to Thailand any time soon for honeymoon, shopping or searching for that elusive secret surf spot, hit their sister shop in Bangkok (wait, what? Bangkok? No, really). Also, are you a college student? Bring your college ID and get a discount. Not bad…

Heaven...

In the meantime, I enjoyed the journey back to my youth of Southern California and the donut experience Sublime afforded me. It was nice to have Atlanta home to some of the cutting edge of artisan donut making (Dough In The Box, Dutch Monkey Donuts also come to mind). Their raised dough is the real thing, and their toppings, eclectic and playful. I’ll be sharing their goods with the guys at the firehouse and there exists no stronger recommend then that.

Date: Mar 2013

3.5 Alarms

Habanero Ham Mac & Cheese

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Wed, 13 Mar 2013 08:48:41 PDT

As with most amateur cooks, influences for my recipes are quite varied. Local farmer’s markets, international food stores, cookbooks, periodicals, food blogs, fellow firefighters all contribute to the ideas floating in my mind when thoughts of food are entertained. So when I saw a post and video from the popular Chef John’s (Mitzewich) Food Wishes on Israeli Couscous & Cheese, I was surprised that he and I shared a common thought on treating pasta in the style of risotto.

Risotto is famous for taking the often frowned upon attribute of rice’s starchiness and using it to the advantage of the cook. The starch creates a creamy consistency that both softens the grain and helps ensure the cook an opportunity to retain some ‘bite’ (the famous al dente with pasta). This same technique can be used on any high starch fuel source and pasta fits the bill.

I’d been making different rendition of mac & cheese for a few years but have since refined it when I saw his take (which is awesome BTW). Israeli couscous as the pasta had never occurred to me, as it’s not available everywhere. Orzo pasta seemingly is, so I stuck with my original dried dough. The addition of habanero (heat) and ham (savory protein) make this a more substantial side dish then what was originally intended. The layered breadcrumbs here are the toasty kicker.

A few after the fire critiques: the habanero is a substantial heat source but keep in mind the seeds and membrane can be removed to scale it back. Also, their heat is made subtle by the addition of the dairy and cooking them. You can also skip the ramekins and just use a baking dish (an 8” x 8” should be sufficient). Indulge.

Fuel

Orzo (2 Cups)

Chicken Stock (4 Cups)

Heavy Cream (¾ Cup)

Sharp Cheddar Cheese (6-8 ounces shredded)

Canadian Bacon (10 ounces minced)

Habanero (2 seeds removed, minced)

Chives (3 Tbs. minced)

Garlic (2 cloves minced)

Breadcrumbs (1 Cup)

EVOO or Unsalted Butter (4 Tbs.)

Pepper & Salt

Tools

Dutch Oven

Medium Sauté Pan

Ramekins (6-8)

Wooden Spoon or Spatula

Slotted Spoon

Tactics

To ready the breadcrumbs, place the sauté pan over medium heat and add 2 Tbs. of the EVOO/butter in and heat for 30 seconds. Add the breadcrumbs and toast for 2-3 minutes or until slightly browned. Remove from heat and add 1 Tbs. of the chives. Reserve.

Place the Dutch Oven over medium-high heat and add 1 Tbs. of the EVOO/butter. Add the Canadian Bacon and sauté until slightly browned 5-7 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon, place on a paper towel lined plate and reserve. Place 1 Tbs. EVOO/butter into the Dutch Oven and heat for 30 seconds. Add the garlic and orzo and sauté until slightly browned approximately 1 minute. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook (while stirring often) for an additional 5-7 minutes, or until almost all of the stock has been absorbed. Add the habanero and heavy cream, stir to combine and cook for another minute. Remove from the heat, add the cheddar and remaining chives and stir to combine. Pepper and salt to taste.

Spoon the mac & cheese into the ramekins and top with the breadcrumbs. Toast under a broiler until slightly browned. Remove the ramekins and allow them to rest a few minutes then serve immediately. DONE.

Next Shift on the FHC: Habanero Ham Mac & Cheese

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Sun, 10 Mar 2013 18:17:03 PDT

What happens when you treat a pasta like rice, amp up the Scoville Scale to the Firefighter level, oh, and add pork to the classic Mac & Cheese? You achieve awesomeness, that's what...

Stay hungry, my friends!

R.

Tactical Review: Highland Bakery

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Fri, 15 Mar 2013 15:41:26 PDT

Highland Bakery, the renowned roving cart turned sit-down restaurant located in three separate locations sprinkled across Atlanta brewed its reputation for it’s great cup of java and the muffins that accompanied them. Now a days, they’re still known for their coffee but also their large portion dishes, to-go desserts and eclectic crowds. My wife and I turned into the Old Fourth Ward location to find out if the reputation lived up to the hype.

We chose the Freedom location because it was central to other spots on our to-do list for the day and it seemed large enough that we wouldn’t have much of a wait, even on a weekday (it was still packed). The structure is an old style brick and mortar shop much in line with the surrounding shopping district and it portrayed a welcoming, down to earth vibe. Plenty of parking around the restaurant was easy enough to find with one circling of the building.

The entrance consisted of a large refrigerated case displaying all their sugared confections ranging from muffins, cupcakes pops, cookies, etc. and a coffee bar. The multi-colored offerings are impressive opening salvo as one saunters by on the way to the main dining hall.

The server leads one by a windowed kitchen area where baked breads are seen in every corner. The colorfully, eclectic décor reminds one of an old school college rec room stocked with college age servers there to take your order. It’s a relaxed atmosphere and the service for us was spot on through out the meal.

The menu itself was appointed with all the necessities of a well-stocked breakfast stop; pancakes (sweet potato, ricotta and corn), eggs benedict (crab, country fried steak, cowboy), sandwiches, grits, granola, oatmeal, you get the idea. As per our standard operating procedure, we had the server give us her recommendations, their Classic French Toast and Fried Chicken Benedict.

First and foremost, the Fried Chicken Benedict was everything a hybrid Benedict should be. Mouth watering to look at, it was served on a flaky, buttery biscuit, the fried chicken was deliciously moist and crunchy, the poached egg the perfect medium temperature all topped with a jalapeño cheddar cheese sauce. It was divine. One of the more creative and satisfying Eggs Benedict I've had to date. If I had to nitpick, I’d want more heat from the jalapeño sauce or a bottle of Srircha on the table.

Feeling good about the Benedict, we dived into the French Toast. It looked impressive. It seemed they served us half a loaf of their homemade Challah bread on the plate. Fresh berries dotted the plate with a ‘French’ style cream sauce that was creatively stripped across the four ginormous slices (did I mention the ‘toasts’ were HUGE?!). The cream-less caramel for syrup was almost enough to distract you from the fact that these slices were completely devoid of any moisture. Nothing, Zilch. Nada. This, in my humble opinion, is not how French Toast should be. It was liken to sitting down into a beautifully rugged looking fire truck with all the bells and whistles only to find that the engine lacked any punch. A disappointment.

Like a sponge crying for the ocean, here's the too dry French Toast.

Now a word (or three) on the pastries as we took a to-go box filled with various goodies for the road. The German Chocolate cupcake was a winner (WOW!) and the lemon bar solid but all the others were more ‘miss’ then ‘hit’ (i.e.- their eclair was stuffed with a peanut butter cream which was just off). My wife’s more refined palate picked up on the infamous refrigerator after taste with a number these. It detracted the full potency of these goods which was unfortunate.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t pass along that their coffee was very good (according to the coffee expert in the family, AKA- my wife) and right in line with all that we were told. They even offered a to-go cup for the Misses as we set up to depart, a very nice touch.

Overall, Highland Bakery was a something of a mixed bag for me. Though some of the refrigerated pastries and the bone dry French Toast left me momentarily questioning their reputation, the Fried Chicken Benedict, casual service, firefighter size helpings, college style atmosphere and coffee will be enough to bring me back for more.

Review Date: Mar 2013

3 Alarms.

Buttermilk Drop Biscuits

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Mon, 04 Mar 2013 15:45:00 PST

I have a confession to make. Well, perhaps not a confession but more of an admission of a ‘blind spot’. Before I get too deep, please allow me to explain. I honestly feel that those of us in the fire service should consider ourselves professional athletes and thus should treat our bodies as such. But some of you might question, "Professional athletes, really?" I'll give you the definition and then let you be the judge:

Athlete: a person trained to compete in sports or exercises (i.e.- firefighting) involving physical strength, speed, or endurance.

I couldn’t have summed up our actions on the fire ground more succinctly. Some would argue that we don’t get paid enough money to qualify as professional (ok, maybe that was just me), but you see it’s a worthy comparison. So, with my case being laid out, I try to eat appropriately to keep my body always in the “go” mode so I can perform at my peak when it matters most. My diet reflects that.

All that being said, I have times when I say,” ____ it, I’m eating what I want, when I want it”. What I’m showing y’all here falls into the before mentioned ‘blind spot’ realm. Deep within this realm I find that I’m a sucker for homemade biscuits. As everyone who has had homemade biscuits knows, they’re the epitome of good Southern food, but often requiring kneading, folding, measuring, etc. Too much time for a rushed morning at the firehouse to pay it homage and give it its due respect, so I give you the abbreviated version, the drop biscuit.

This is a quicker alternative to the traditional rolled biscuits, with the same tenderness and buttery flavor. We’re still getting from point A to point B folks; it’s just a straight line, no curvy road for us. The addition of buttermilk ads acidic tang, ramping up the salt (not Kosher but regular table salt please) adds flavor and the cayenne pepper, the needed subtle smokiness. Remove the cayenne pepper if using in a sweet recipe. This recipe was adapted from America's Test Kitchen. Indulge!

Fuel

A/P Flour (2 Cups)

Buttermilk (1 Cup whole)

Unsalted Butter (8 Tbs. plus 2 Tbs., melted but slightly cooled)

Baking Powder (2 tsp.)

Baking Soda (½ tsp.)

Sugar (1 tsp.)

Salt (1½ tsp.)

Cayenne Pepper (½ tsp.)

Cooking Spray

Tools

Various Bowls

Whisk

Spatula

Spoons (2 large ones)

Baking Sheet

Parchment Paper or SiltPat

Tactics

Pre-heat oven to 475°F with the rack set to the middle position. In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking soda, baking powder, sugar, cayenne pepper and salt. In a medium bowl, combine the buttermilk and melted butter until small clumps of butter are formed. Line the baking sheet with parchment paper or the SiltPat.

Add the buttermilk mixture to the flour mixture and stir with the spatula until the dough just begins to pull away from the sides of the bowl. It will not be fully incorporated. Too sticky, add more buttermilk. Too wet, add more flour. Spray the spoons with cooking oil and in the style of making quenelles, form an approximately ¼ cup portion and drop it onto the prepared baking sheet. Space the biscuits 1½ apart. It should be enough for 12 biscuits. Bake for 11-13 minutes or until the tops are golden brown.

Remove and top with the reserved melted butter. Let them cool for a few minutes then serve.

Next Shift on the FHC: Buttermilk Drop Biscuits

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Fri, 01 Mar 2013 15:36:43 PST

We in the fire service, ever on the go, are always searching for ways to streamline tools and techniques with the hopes of attaining the same outcome but with less energy and time. I often use the same mind frame and tactical training view when trying to adapt recipes for the firehouse (and home). This is one such recipe, taking the beloved and respected biscuit and streamlining them whilst trying to maintain the buttery integrity that we all dream about. Keep your fingers crossed...

Tactical Review: Antico - Pizza Napoletana

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Fri, 08 Mar 2013 17:24:49 PST

Antico, the famed Pizzeria Napoletana found in Midtown Atlanta, has proven to have the best classic Naples style pizza in the state of Georgia by many a critic. Its theme is simple; let the food do the talking.

With all ingredients shipped in from Napoli and Campania, Italy, (including the 10,000 lbs. ovens) the focus is obvious; they are all about authenticity. Don’t get me wrong; I love the minimalist Italian themed package. The simply Italian inspired color palette with manicured trees emphasizes the retro art décor on the brick sided building. This all leads one in line to peruse the small menu to place an order.

Cozy, inviting though sparsely adorned, the first impression one conjures upon entering is that this place means business, Italian style. The simple menu highlights the perfection that is pizza with an emphasis on the bones of a great pie, tomatoes, cheese, garlic, etc. Here, simple is more.

Cannoli anyone?

The open dining hall with communal style tables and benches topped with brown paper towels may be off putting to some, but for the pizza aficionado (or general foodie), the atmosphere will only hit you after you start eating. Then one takes notice of the football (soccer) match playing on the big screen, a separate room for making dough, the boxed cases of San Marzano tomatoes and that there are people eating RIGHT next to you…

And one will not have to wait long. The wood-feed, 900°F brick ovens bake a pie in less then a minute and a half (and yes, I timed them). Simply served on a hotel-size baking sheet, the still steaming thin crust pizza is placed on the table only moments after seating. Simple sides are offered self-service near the open prep table where the pizza artisans use it to shape, spin and top their yeasty creations.

One of the three Grande Forni (ovens)

For the pizza itself, it is simply divine. Probably the best tasting dough ever to support tomato sauce, its hand kneaded on site in a special room dedicated to its birth. Small patches ensure quality and provide the famous chew that brings people clamoring back for more. Top this dough with Mozzarella di Bufala, sweet red peppers, or heck, just the hand-crushed San Marzano tomatoes and it'd still be a winner.

The Capricciosa: Mushrooms, Artichokes, Prosciutto Cotto

Granted, I've never dined here at night, though I foolishly attempted it a while back but the double-parked lots (there are two painfully small lots) and stories of not being able to hear yourself think on a sardine packed Friday/Saturday night prevented me from that experience. My suggestion is to dine at lunch or for a early dinner before hitting the town. They do not take reservations unless you have a large party, and good luck with securing that...

The "Private" dining table

This last story should sum up the Antico experience. As my wife

and I were dining, the three gentlemen sharing the table next to us were taking stock of all the ingredients, peppering the staff with questions and sizing up the atmosphere. They informed us that they were restaurateurs from the North Carolina area where they owned a few pizza joints but were looking to get into the Pizza Napoletana scene (AKA- artisan pizza). They flew down to Atlanta just to taste Antico’s pizza. They spoke of using imported ingredients, volcanic rock and authentic bricks, purified water and chewy dough. By the time they had left, the look of incredulity on their faces was priceless. The bar had been set.

Review Date: Feb 2013

4 Alarms.

Roasted Eggplant with Quinoa & Yogurt

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Thu, 21 Feb 2013 21:36:21 PST

Do you want to know the quickest way to clear a kitchen at the firehouse? Say the word ‘vegetarian’. As many of you may or may not know, most fire service personnel are card-carrying carnivores and have an unconscious, near violent reaction when even the whisper of a protein-void meal is suggested. But as many are hungrily (pun intended) seeking vegetarian, gluten free meals, we in the fire service (though some reluctantly) are starting to take notice.

For myself, as I’ve expanded my culinary studies to cuisines less traveled, I find more and more that most cuisines have a revere the vegetable and therefore, go to great lengths to extract all of it’s flavors; which leads me to my latest offering and challenge, the enigmatic eggplant. That which many decry as tasteless, bitter and beyond all hope (unless breaded and fried), I, perhaps foolishly, have decided to bring a special rendition to my firehouse table embellished with heavy spice, layered quinoa, and a complex yogurt sauce.

Served with an aggressive side salad or grilled fruit, this meal will surely satisfy even the most ardent carnivore and leave them with an open mind to whatever vegetable the future lies before them.

A few after the fire critiques: To ramp up the spiciness, toast whole spices then grind them with a spice grinder. If you can’t find the pomegranate molasses [I found mine (and the preserved lemons) at an international food market for cheap], you can substitute balsamic vinegar (reduced), honey and/or agave with a squeeze of lemon. Regular lemon peel can be used en lieu of the preserved lemons in a pinch. This recipe was based on one I obtained from two of my culinary mentors, Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi.

Fuel:

Eggplant (2)

Quinoa (1 Cup)

Chicken Stock (1½ Cup)

Almonds (½ Cup toasted)

Golden Raisins (⅓ Cup)

Green Olives (⅓ Cup chopped)

Green Onions (3 sliced)

Preserved Lemon Peel (1-2 Tbs.)

Garlic (2 cloves minced)

Greek Yogurt (½ Cup)

Cilantro (1 Bunch chopped)

Coriander Powder (2 tsp.)

Cumin Powder (2 tsp.)

Sweet Paprika (1 tsp.)

Crushed Red Pepper Flakes (1 tsp.)

EVOO (1 Cup)

Lemon Juice (½ lemon or 2 Tbs.)

Pomegranate Molasses (1-2 Tbs.)

Salt

Cows eat veggies too

Tools

Baking Sheet

Medium Pot (2, one with a cover)

Small Sauté Pan

Spice Grinder

Various Bowls

Brush

Tactics

Pre-heat oven to 400°F. Place ½ cup of EVOO, *coriander, *cumin, sweet paprika red pepper flakes and salt then mix to combine. Slice the eggplants in half then, ensuring not to pierce the skin, deeply score the eggplant in a crisscross pattern. Using a spoon and/or a brush, apply the Chermoula lavishly on the exposed flesh making sure to allow it to penetrate the crevices. Place on baking sheet and roast for 40 minutes or until completely cooked through.

Boil a cup of water then place in over the raisins to cover. Allow it to sit for 10 minutes, strain keeping the water and reserve. Place 1-2 Tbs. a pot over medium-high heat. For 30 seconds. Add the quinoa and toast, stirring frequently for 3 minutes. Add the chicken stock, a pinch of salt (or more) and then bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and cook for 15-18 minutes or until all the liquid is absorbed. Remove from heat, place folded kitchen towel on top, replace lid and let it sit for 10 minutes. Add the olives, raisins, almonds, half of the cilantro, lemon juice, salt to taste and mix to combine. In a small bowl, add the yogurt, pomegranate molasses and enough raisin water together until it almost reaches a heavy cream like consistency.

To assemble, slice the eggplant in half, cover with enough quinoa so that it falls from one side to the other, stream on the yogurt, sprinkle with cilantro, a splash of EVOO and some finishing salt. Indulge!

* Toast in small sauté pan over medium heat until fragrant. Place in spice grinder and grind coarsely.

Next Shift on the FHC: Roasted Eggplant with Quinoa & Yogurt

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Tue, 19 Feb 2013 16:58:29 PST

Fuel Check Off Sheet:

ü Eggplant

ü Quinoa

ü Yogurt

ü Raisins

ü Olives

ü Almonds

ü Cilantro

ü Preserved Lemon

ü Exotic Spices

ü Intrigue

ü Adventure

ü Awesomeness

Tactical Review: LEE'S BAKERY

thefirehousechef@gmail.com (Ryan McKay) — Fri, 08 Mar 2013 17:27:03 PST

Lee’s Bakery, the famed Atlanta source of Vietnamese food and reputed around the state as having the best Banh Mi was the destinantion of choice when the wife and I decided to make a day trip to visit The Dekalb Farmer’s Market. So it was on a lazy Tuesday that we strolled into the restaurant for lunch service and unknowingly, a trip down memory lane.

I was exposed to authentic Vietnamese food from the mother of one of my better friends during my formative years in high school so I had a competent background with the major flavors. I’ve experienced high quality Pho and I’ve had a few Banh Mis in my time so I was eager to experience their offerings.

First and foremost, you can always feel uplifted about your culinary decision when you see a fire engine (or similar) staged in the parking lot. Having to feed themselves every third day, many a crew hits the streets in their territory to find the great, cheap eats and are adept at sniffing them out. This was a good sign.

Before the onslaught of lunchers

The atmosphere was split into the entry/order area and the main dinning area. The entry is reminiscent of a San Francisco or New York style food joint with the open style prep area, shelves stacked with various style breads, unnamed goodies and “to-go” packages, and many a waiting server to take your order. All this was for one to absorb because the line was long, even before the lunch rush. The reputation around the area with the locals (including the massive CDC) as a great cheap lunch was evident.

The dining area was more in tune with the standard style restaurant with various tables topped with chopsticks, Chinese style ladles, Asian inspired condiments, etc. Though a little cramped, the excellent service made one feel most welcome. Attentive, quick to answer questions and eager to see their patrons leave satisfied, it left an impression far beyond the norm.

With their reputation in mind, my wife and I order a Grilled Pork Banh Mi, Beef Pho and on a whim, a Rice Flour Crepe filled with Shrimp. First and foremost, the bang for the buck must be commended. The serving size portions were generous to say the least (and for lunch no less). A bounty of herbs and condiments were supplied with every dish; coriander, parsley, basil, lavender, lemon, white sprouts, it was impressive. It’s in the small things that we take notice. I was beginning to notice.

The Pho was like coming home. Savory but with bites of lime and green onion, rice noodles a plenty and abundant and then tender sliced beef, one could tell that the establishment prided themselves on this dish. I wished their was a little more depth of flavor more in line with the offerings of the recent ramen craze. Sill though, very good.

The Banh Mi was everything I had imagined in my mind (and I have a colorful imagination) and more. Think Vietnamese with a little French provincial all in a handy dandy street version. The French style baguette was respectively crunchy counter balanced with a soft interior that promptly reminded you why the word 'bakery' was in their name. The fresh, pickled vegetables, fish aioli and grilled marinated pork were the perfect combo and reminded me why Vietnamese is always near the top of my cuisine pyramid. Amazing.

The only miss-step was the crepe. The too thin crepe bathed in oil tried in vain to hide the bean sprouts and shrimp that lay within, the flavors were there, just muted by the palate covering oil. But as a testament to the quality staff, they noticed that the plate seemed untouched. The server then asked if my wife would like a replacement dish as obviously the crepe didn’t agree with her. A moment later, the server reappeared with a probationary dish, a light cabbage and shrimp salad with roasted peanuts, sliced jalapeno and a fish sauce driven mayo dressing. We’d gladly order this salad when and if it appears on the menu.

Overall, Lee's Bakery left us happy we made the detour to try its delectable offerings. It reminded me again why Vietnamese has held ground in the form of this establishment for the last decade in the metro Atlanta area; the savory flavors highlighted with fresh, herbaceous ingredients all the while being served by a great, caring staff. Strong recommend.

Review Date: Feb 2013

3 Alarms.