Climb the mountain not to plant your flag, but to embrace the challenge, enjoy the air and behold the view. Climb it so you can see the world, not so the world can see you.

David McCullough Jr.

I almost didn’t choose that particular hike, since I’d heard hiking to Refugio Frey was the most popular route in the park and really didn’t want to chance being part of a mob of tourists on the trail. My AirBnB host reassured me it was worth doing, however, and I decided an early start on a Friday should help me avoid most of the crowds.

I was right, and so — as it turns out — was she.

The trail is a slow burn, skirting the hillsides as Lago Gutiérrez shimmers in the valley below. After so long away from the trails, the initial ease of the hike was a welcome surprise.

Like so many other things in this world, every hike is different… every jaunt through Nature’s palace has its own special flavor. Some — like Lookout Mountain in my home of Washington State — keep their views fiercely secret, while others — like Ptarmigan Ridge — entice you onward with evermore-astounding views…

Hiking to Refugio Frey yields an experience somewhat in between the two, but is more akin to Ptarmigan Ridge. After the initial traversing of the hillsides, the trail turns, and a single pinnacle peeks out over a distant pass. A finger of craggy granite flanked by snow — even in the middle of summer — it beckons on those looking to savor the vistas it guards.

The trail takes a turn here, both figuratively and literally, and dives into the shaded depths of a twisted and whispering wood. An alpine stream burbles through it, and large boulders lie dormant on the forest floor, cast-offs from glaciers long since melted.

The climb intensifies, the pace quickens, but so too do the incentives — views increasingly more epic in scale dangled just out of reach. Cajoling, prodding, tempting onward…

Then, a short scramble up a muddied creek bed and a tumble of boulders later, and the refugio comes into view, perched on the near shore of Laguna Toncek…

The lake shore has space to spread out, to linger, away from the refugio itself. There was a light wind that day, barely enough to disturb the surface of the laguna, and a family of Patagonian crested ducks paddled about. The duckling seemed to copy its parents’ every move, as they dunked their heads and ruffled their feathers in the frigid water.

The sound of wind, of waves, and of contented quacks were only broken by the occasional murmur of conversation… the occasional outburst of laughter.

Communing with the mountains always feels like coming home…

Here the trail splits, and one can tread lightly along either side of the lake, to where the trails rejoin on the other side. Ahead, the pinnacles loom ever taller — improbable and striking in their form.

The way up out of the valley can be difficult to distinguish at first, nearly indiscernible from the rest of the rocky scree. But look closely, and the path is there, marked by red dots on larger boulders, winding its way up the dauntingly steep rockfall and — at least in January — still crusted in snow.

The top reveals another laguna — Laguna Schmoll — nestled in a little divot on the shoulder of the surrounding peaks. This laguna is, perhaps, even calmer than the first, and I very nearly fell asleep on its shore until the sounds of fellow hikers roused me from my almost-slumber.

I’d initially planned on turning around and returning the way I’d come, but the pair continued on up the steep slope across the lake from me — trudging through some snow patches and clambering up a rockfall to claim the ridge-line.

I followed.

An odd, football pitch-sized depression lies just on the other side of the ridge, with a small gap at the far end. Through it, the world unfolds, and breath — if you still have it — is snatched from you.

While the view from Refugio Frey is stunning, it is enclosing. The hedge of pinnacles encircles you, traps you within its embrace, and your gaze is held captive within its confines. Here, though, the views are expansive. The eyes are drawn, further and further away, to distant peaks and valleys, to the sapphire smudge of Lago Nahuel Huapi in the distance…

The trail splits just after the pass, a steep and hair-raising descent leading down into the valley and deeper into the park or a winding scramble along the hillside to another lookout, with the earth dropping away beneath your feet nearly the entire way.

I chose the scramble.

Hiking teaches me so much. There are moments on the trail, moments when I’m alone and daunted by the path ahead, moments when my heart catches in my throat, moments when I am desperately, desperately afraid…

Sometimes, I listen to those fears. Sometimes I turn around. More often, I don’t. There are times when I can’t.

But just like there are moments of fear, there are moments of power, moments of self-realization. There are moments when your perspective shifts, and you realize the path you’ve tread doesn’t look so harrowing from the other side, once you’ve conquered your fear and made it through unscathed….

I live for those moments.

When, at last, I crested the far ridge-line, I was exhausted. It hadn’t really been a crazy hike, but I’d gone hard. That, combined with my relative inactivity since September, rendered me just about useless, and I was more than a little relieved to find the nearby chair lift down the mountain operational. I decided to save my knees and take advantage of the convenience.

Sometimes, it’s okay to cut yourself a break.

Feel like doing this hike as well? Here are my GPS treks from the day. I’d also recommend downloading an offline map of the area with Maps.ME, as that application seemed to have the most comprehensive depiction of the various trails in the area. I’d also recommend having some hiking poles, as I didn’t bring mine on this trip and really missed the darn things!

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The post Hiking to Refugio Frey and Beyond appeared first on The Open Road Before Me.

Sometimes, you can shape the path of your life, and guide your own path.

Sometimes, things spin out of control, and even the best-laid plans go awry.

If you do not change direction, you may end up where you are heading.

– Lao Tzu

China started out well enough. I felt settled relatively quickly and my job seemed to be going well. Sandy, a dear friend from back home who managed to visit me in Thailand years ago, was able to visit me during the Lunar New Year on her way to explore Tibet. We braved the teeming hordes of Chinese tourists, missed a train, and climbed a mountain — all while shoving as much food into our faces as possible.

But life has a funny way of throwing you curve-balls, and my experience in China began to sour. The job I’d gone there for was quickly becoming more than I thought it would be — more stress, more hours, more responsibilities — and I had managed to acquire a horrible, hacking case of bronchitis which showed no signs of letting up. On top of that, my relationship felt like it was crumbling, and I knew I had to leave.

So I began to search for another job. I began to look for an escape.

In the midst of this upheaval, I remembered the standing invitation from a dear friend to come visit her in Dalian — a city just to the northeast of Beijing. With a long weekend coming up, I decided to go for it. I know myself, and sometimes a short escape is all I need to clear my head and figure out what I need to do.

I was right. The weekend with Nino and Natia was exactly what I needed. I gave my notice before I returned to Yangzhou.

I learned something there, at the end of my truncated stint in China. Even ventures which sputter and fail can lead to growth. Even a pool of muck can contain treasures. And those treasures make the stain and soil from our trials worth it.

Do you know those moments in life when everything clicks and you know you made the right decision? Arriving home after 5 months in China was one of those moments. I mean, just look at the happiness on this face…

As part of my decision process for leaving China, I’d closely examined what my priorities were for this year and the future — trying to figure out who I want to be and what I want to focus my effort and attention on. This meant studying Spanish almost every day. It meant eating healthy, getting a job that would let me travel, spending time with the people closest to me. It meant hiking EVERY. CHANCE. I. GOT.

So that’s what I did!

Summer came, and summer went, and before I knew it the time had come to leave again. But this trip… this trip was different.

My four months of grinding against the millstone of the job search had paid off spectacularly, and I’d managed to get a job with one of my dream companies — Airtable. In my new role, I can work remotely — so long as I work US hours — so I decided to relocate to Mexico for a couple of months to study Spanish.

Staying in San Cristóbal de las Casas, working at a job that fits me like a glove, studying a language I love, and even being reunited after nearly a year with Luz… all of these things made the trials of the year seem worth it.

I’ve always been stubborn — a character trait I believe to be one of my best and one of my worst. Hitting my low point in the spring really drove home the fact that things desired must be fought for, and dreams not strained and stretched and clawed for will always hover just out of reach.

Hay que gozar mucho para desquitarse de la vida.

One must enjoy much to get even with life.

-Unknown

Color me done with being passive.

So next? Portugal, and beyond. I’m trying to focus on the things which bring me joy, and chase after my goals with all the strength I have. 2019 was a year of upheaval, a year of trials. But 2020 is coming, and I have plans.

So this Christmas, I’m focusing on mindfulness — being aware of myself and my state of mind, and where I am in relation to where I want to be. Learning to distinguish between situations I can change and ones I can’t, and knowing when to fight for something instead of letting go.

And I’m focused on thankfulness, too: for the strong network of friends and family who root for me and support me even though I slip in and out of contact; for the job I have which enables me to live the life I’ve dreamed of for years; for the mix of beauty and power, wildness and humanity, which make this world such a fascinating place to explore.

Merry Christmas, everyone! I hope you’re able to spend this holiday season with people who make you feel like you can take on the world, who make you feel safe, who make you feel loved. I hope you smile, and I hope your heart is light <3

For me, I’m going to spend it with my awesome sister, as we explore our seventh (!!) country outside of North America together. And, apparently, we’re doing Christmas karaoke ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Still undecided on how I feel about that…

The post Christmas Letter 2019 appeared first on The Open Road Before Me.

So I got out.  I’ve never done that before with a job overseas — given up.  It was humbling.  But it was also a good learning experience.  Once I made sacrifices out of my health and relationships for a job, but this time was different.  People change.  Priorities do too.

I’m not out of the woods.  I’m feeling productive and motivated, but there’s still a heaviness I haven’t been able to shake.  This type of thing doesn’t just switch off.  It’s more akin to pulling blackberries out of a garden.  The bastards keep coming back, but each time, they’re a little less thick, a little less gnarly.  Slowly, surely, we beat back the thorns to create something beautiful.

Me

I wrote that in the beginning of April, when it felt like things were falling apart in China, and I was grappling with the reality that I was depressed.  To be honest, I’m still not out of the woods.  I’ve implemented a lot of good habits, and I’m getting better day by day.  But there are still some mornings where getting out of bed feels like the biggest battle of each day.

I’ve been reflecting on that, and trying to figure out why I haven’t been able to claw my way out of this quagmire yet.  And I realized something the other day as I walked on a winding dirt trail through a creaking forest.  The amount of pressure I’ve been putting on myself has been immense.  Maybe that had something to do with it…

The Job Search

I’m a dreamer — always have been.  I get inspired about something and make plans upon plans about it.  I have contingencies with their own contingencies.  But sometimes, despite my best efforts, everything hinges on one, critical factor — and sometimes that factor is out of my control.  And that… that I think is what I haven’t been able to come to peace with.

When I decided to leave China, I knew that I was not only leaving China, but leaving TEFL as a career path — at least for the foreseeable future.  As an alternative, I began applying to customer support and business development roles with remote-first companies mostly in the SaaS space.  For the most part, these companies work great with a lifestyle like mine, allowing employees to work from anywhere with an internet connection.  There’s just one problem: competition for open positions is fierce.

It’s been three months.  THREE MONTHS.  Three months of trawling job boards, writing cover letters, and researching company ‘About Us’ pages.  Three months of sending job applications out every day.  Three months of interviews, and three months of rejections.  It’s been brutal.

Last week, I realized I couldn’t remember the last day I hadn’t applied for a job.  I was pulling up my ‘Job Hunt’ database like people pull up their Instagram, and the first thing I’d see most mornings was a rejection email from another potential employer.  I needed to unplug.

Learning to Unplug

That’s been this weekend.  I helped a friend move, studied Spanish, listened to podcasts.  I went out into the woods again, as I’ve been trying to do every day.  I did yoga.  I thought — deeply — about what I’ve been putting myself through, and I think I figured it out.

Those things I’d written about in my last post?  About self-affirmation, rediscovering agency,  and taking positive action? I missed something in that list.  I touched on it — oh, so briefly — but didn’t quite grasp it at the time.  I have to learn when to relinquish control.

I’m stubborn, always have been.  I believe in agency, and the power of the individual to forge their own way.  But there are things in this world beyond our control, that’s just how life works.  This fulcrum in my life that I’m trying to bend to my will — getting a remote job — is something I have a lot of control over.  I control the companies I apply to, I control the amount of effort I put into my applications.  I control everything about the application process — up until I click ‘Submit’.  But after that, it’s out of my hands.  Sure, there are things I can do post-submission to help, but the point is: I no longer have control over what happens.  The hiring decision is someone else’s.

There are two ways of attaining an important end, force and perseverance; the silent power of the latter grows irresistible with time.

Sophie Swetchine

That realization hit me hard.  I’d been pouring so much time and effort into these applications, and the deluge of rejections was chipping away at the self-esteem I’d been trying so hard to improve.  But the rejections themselves weren’t my fault.  I knew how much effort I’d put in…. I knew that I’d done my best.  It just wasn’t a good fit.

Lessons Learned

It’s funny how re-framing something can completely change how you feel about it.  By accepting that I didn’t have full control in the application process, only over my part in it, I was gave myself the permission to fail.  And it felt great.

Now I know what I need to keep in mind, in this and all other things…

Know what you have the power to change.  Know what you can control.  Be patient.  Be persistent.  Try one more time, and then try again.  Be the best version of yourself that you can be.

Let go of the rest.

I’m still not out of the woods, I know. But something that I’ve learned from these past few months of being home, of walking the forest paths and letting myself absorb all of the splendor of Nature around me… I actually like being in the woods.  It’s where I learn and where I grow.  It’s where I heal.  It’s where I belong.

I feel better now.  I know what I need to do.  And I think I’m close — really close.  I think all of my hard work is about to pay off.  I just have to push a little more… try a little harder.  But today?  Today I’m just going to relax.  I think I’ve earned it!

How about you?  What’s something in your life that you’ve struggled with?  How did you get through it?  Share your stories in the comments below, and thanks for reading… I appreciate you!

The post My Walk Out of the Woods appeared first on The Open Road Before Me.

We see this aura of projected positivity in the world of influencers — travel bloggers specifically.

Look at me, look at my travels, look at this life I’m living! Isn’t it grand?  

That’s what you expect.  That’s the expectation I feel.  With this life of undeniable privilege, this life that lets me earn a living while exploring a new part of the world, how could I not feel grateful and content?

And yet…

I realized it a couple of weeks ago.  The signs were there.  The listlessness, the inability to focus.  The sensation of my chest being squeezed, the muted thunder of my pulse one stressor away from drumming in my ears.  The struggle to climb out of bed each morning.

I was depressed.

Admitting that to myself, then to my girlfriend, seemed to lessen the burden… if only a little.  As they say, the first step to recovery is admitting you have a problem.  But it’s not enough to just admit something.  When it comes to matters of self, the things that make us tick, one must wield the scalpel of self-reflection and face the ugliness within.  I needed to find the root.  I needed to know why.

As I became comfortable with depression and I started to see things in it that I had not noticed before. Depression changed from a dark and painful experience to one that was rich in detail. As my awareness of the details expanded so did my understanding of what to do with them.

Tom Wootton, from ‘Robin Williams’ Depression and Suicide‘.

The first thing that came to mind was the sun.  I hadn’t seen the sun — properly — in what felt like forever.  Winters in eastern China are a grim, drab affair, with a thick haze choking the sky and keeping the healing light from Nature’s lodestar at bay.  I could feel it inside me — a thirst for the warmth of the Sun’s touch and a yearning to breathe deeply of crisp, alpine air.  To bask in the purity and focus to be found there. The coastal plains outside of Shanghai are not a good place for that.

But there was more.  There was loneliness.  I’ve been busy with work and personal projects since coming here, and my social life has withered.  I haven’t put much effort into making friends, and the desire to go out and explore seems to fade with each passing week. My best friends are elsewhere, and I feel the distance keenly.  My girlfriend and I live in opposite time zones, and each of us is busy with work. Our communication has been sporadic, and the distance feels greater with each passing day.

Should I even be here?

Complementing that loneliness, increasing its potency,  was the tang of unfulfillment that seemed to season each day. I found tendrils of this everywhere, from unhappiness with my living situation to unhappiness with my job.  A realization that I don’t like this part of China as much as the part I’d visited previously.  The knowledge that I am trapped by my financial situation and the open road is closed to me for the foreseeable future.

And there was the final thing, that expectation I mentioned before, and the failure to meet it.  Why aren’t you happy?

Social media has changed the way we perceive each other, and, in turn, ourselves.  Most people filter what they post, weeding out the painful, awkward bits to present a rosy picture of themselves.  There’s nothing inherently wrong with that, but it can be extremely damaging when we start to compare the unaltered entirety of our situation to the Insta-filtered version of someone else’s.  This leads to feelings of failure and inadequacy.

Among other dangers that Facebook might possibly pose in our lives… is this habit of always comparing ourselves to others. People, when they are happy, post a lot of happy things. But when I’m not happy I will consciously, or unconsciously, compare myself to others. As a result, I create a world that is not a true world because I imagine that everybody is happy in that world, except me.

Dr. Ali Jazayeri, associate professor of clinical psychology at The Chicago School of Professional Psychology’s L.A. Campus. Taken from “A Virtual Life“.

What am I doing wrong?  

All of these things — the weather, the loneliness, the unfulfillment, the expectations — they all came together to create one hell of a cocktail, one that nearly incapacitated me before I realized what was happening.

But this post isn’t just about suffering from depression.  It’s about overcoming it.  I am lucky.  I have people in my life who’ve been through much worse than what I was experiencing, people I admire who will speak truth to me when I need to hear it.  I have people who support me even when I’m at my lowest, and I can’t convey how much that means to me. I can’t overstate my privilege to have that.

One of those people was my friend, Cody Beverstock.  He overcame a lot of obstacles in pursuit of his dreams and was one of the most introspective, discerning people I’ve ever known.  This is a quote from his blog:

After being diagnosed with clinical depression, I became extremely introspective and began analyzing everything about myself, specifically, my inner thoughts and how those thoughts affected my emotions. I began to learn and identify specific thought patterns and behaviors… that would trigger specific emotions within me that would ultimately lead to slipping into a state of depression. Once learning my triggers and the associated patterns, I began to teach myself through trial and error specific actions I could take to avoid the trigger or overcome it. And through hundreds… of times of trying and failing, eventually I began to take ahold of my life.

Cody Beverstock

What Cody describes is something I’ve tried to take and practice in my own life.  I’ve tried to be cognizant of the times when I’m not feeling right and to analyze myself with a critical eye in order to figure out where that imbalance is coming from.  After all, I know myself better than anyone else.

I’d done that, and I’d figured out what the problem was.  But what needed to come next?

Self-affirmation.  Rediscovering agency.  Taking positive action.

Another one of Cody’s sayings is, “We all have greatness within us.”  It reads like a motivational poster, but it’s so true.  We are all capable of more than we’d expect, if we could only be pushed in just the right way… Oftentimes the only thing standing in the way of us realizing this greatness is a mental block that we ourselves have erected, whether it be a lack of confidence or a feeling of being stuck in our current situation.  I had to break past this.

For me, I do this incrementally.  I start small and find victories in the small things.  You know that old song that goes, “You put one foot in front of the other, and soon you’ll be walking ‘cross the floor…”?  It’s like that.

Hey, Nathan, you got out of bed today, nice work.  Now make yourself breakfast.  Woah, well done! How about doing yoga before work today?  Look at you go, it’s 7:30 and you’ve accomplished 3 things.  You’re a frickin’ rock-star.  

These mini-victories are all about self-affirmation — the art of building yourself up, bit by bit, until your confidence blooms once more.  Positivity is a choice — a tough one, but a choice nonetheless.  It can take time, and there can be setbacks, but it’s essential to recovery.  For me, as my confidence returns, so does my sense of agency.

The weather, the loneliness, the unfulfillment, the expectations.  Which of these did I have the power to change?

Sadly, not the weather.  Try as I have, I’ve not yet been able to manifest power over the elements.  Comic books are a lie.

But my feelings of loneliness, of being unfulfilled, and not living up to expectations?  Hell yeah, I could do something about those.

That’s what this week has been about.  I moved into a new apartment.  I forced myself to start writing again.  I set the wheels in motion on a passion project that I’ve been planning for 6 years (stay tuned for updates on that!).  I’ve taken steps to alleviate my financial stresses for the time being, and I’ve started applying for dream jobs that I haven’t pursued in a long time.  Maybe, just maybe, if I keep this up, I can be reunited with my love sooner rather than later.

Then and now, I’m going to focus on — as a great man once said — following my bliss.

I’m not out of the woods.  I’m feeling productive and motivated, but there’s still a heaviness I haven’t been able to shake.  This type of thing doesn’t just switch off.  It’s more akin to pulling blackberries out of a garden.  The bastards keep coming back, but each time, they’re a little less thick, a little less gnarly.  Slowly, surely, we beat back the thorns to create something beautiful.

Here’s to that!

Last week, the flowers were blooming in Yangzhou.  Perhaps I don’t need to change the weather after all…

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A post shared by The Open Road Before Me (@openroadb4me) on Mar 31, 2019 at 11:32pm PDT

How about you?  Have you ever struggled with depression, either at home or abroad?  How were you able to move past it?  Or what’s keeping you from doing so?  Answer in the comments below, and make sure to check in with those close to you to make sure they’re doing alright.  Sometimes all you need to do is ask <3

The post Dealing with Depression Abroad appeared first on The Open Road Before Me.

The biggest part is work.  I work sporadically, but when I do work, I work hard.  By doing lots of contract-based jobs, I’m able to work for a year, then take some time off for a new trip.  As much as I’d love for this blog to be my sole source of income, it’s not.  Not yet, at least!  But another huge part of how I manage to travel so much is being able to sniff out great travel deals on the internet.  And that’s where using a Flight Deals Site comes in handy…

Here are some of the top options, and some brief reviews of their service!

Scott’s Cheap Flights

Scott’s Cheap Flights is the undisputed king of this space.  With nearly 2 million subscribers, a robust (and well-moderated!) social community on Facebook, and world-wide flight offerings, it’s a contender for the best overall value.  Not only is their free service pretty valuable in its own right, but their premium subscription is well-priced and tweakable enough for most.  A long money-back guarantee (30 days) on the premium service makes taking the plunge less intimidating, and the online account management and support database are easy to use and functional.

That said, SCF doesn’t have the  payment options that DFC does (see below) and doesn’t provide text notifications when a particularly hot deal goes live. 

Next Vacay

Next Vacay is the new kid on the block and has a few things going for it.  It’s a mere $25 per year, compared to the ~$40 annual cost of the two other services listed here.  In addition, the Next Vacay team will send flight deals for nearby airports — a feature I really appreciate.  I’m between two large international airports, and it’s nice to get deals for Vancouver and Bellingham in addition to Seattle.

That said, Next Vacay feels like a fledgling service compared to the other two in this list.  International departure points aren’t available (yet), and there is no free basic service for people looking to start on a low rung before committing to premium.

The deal-breaker for me, however, is the lack of an account dashboard.  Any modifications to your subscription or departure preferences needs to be done through the customer service team, who can be a bit slow to respond sometimes.  I expect any subscription service to allow me to manage my subscription on my own.  Contacting customer service is an inconvenience, and there are a wealth of choices in this niche.

Dollar Flight Club

Dollar Flight Club is another heavy-hitter with great name recognition and a robust offering.  There are a number of reasons I really like their service.  The account management dashboard is easy to use, and it’s very easy to set multiple departure airports in different regions.  This is great for me, because I’m often looking for flights for the next several stages of whatever trip I’m planning.

They also push text notifications through on the best deals, making it more likely that you’ll be able to pull the trigger while the price is still valid.  Finally, they have a cool referral program that rewards you with one year of premium membership if 5 or more friends sign up through your referral link.  That’s a pretty decent ROI — $8 per referral!

With a well-developed support section, responsive customer support, a monthly payment option for those averse to paying annually, and a burgeoning Facebook community, DFC scratches all the itches I want scratched, in addition to providing lots of good flight deals.

Downsides?  The trial period is only 7 days, compared to the 30-day trials of SCF and Next Vacay.  It’s also the most expensive option, just $1 more expensive than SCF.    And, honestly, that’s about it!

What’s My Preferred Choice?

While all of the above options have sent me some good flight deals, I think Scott’s Cheap Flights and Dollar Flight Club send the most quality results.  Next Vacay gets points for preemptively sending results from nearby airports, but I feel like their team is a bit smaller and just doesn’t have the capacity to stand toe to toe with the big dogs.

As awesome as Scott’s Cheap Flights is, Dollar Flight Club gets my vote.  There are two reasons for this: I love their text push service, and their referral program is straight-up awesome.  It makes sense from a business perspective — encourage people to share your service with others and reward them for doing so.  The target of 5 referrals is VERY easy to attain, placing free premium membership for one year within easy reach of anyone with 5 or more internet-savvy family and friends.

I’m quite picky with premium apps — ones requiring any sort of subscription.  I expect quality results, good UX design, and solid account management capabilities.  Dollar Flight Club ticks all of these boxes and makes it easier for me to get cheap flights around the world.  That’s why it wins my recommendation for the Best Flight Deals Site!

How about you? What flight deals site do you use? Would you recommend it? Share your recommendations in the comments below!

The post Which Flight Deals Site is the Best? appeared first on The Open Road Before Me.

All trails seem to lead to waterfalls, misty crater lakes or jungle-fringed, deserted beaches. Explored by horseback, foot or kayak, Costa Rica is a tropical choose-your-own-adventure land.

Lonely Planet “Costa Rica“

The Beaches of Playa Samara and Playa Santa Teresa

My cousin lived in Costa Rica for a while last year, and these two spots were right at the top of her list for places to chill out and enjoy Guanacaste’s most appealing feature — its beaches.  Surfing, snorkeling, kayaking, and other opportunities abound, and — depending on which beach you choose — you may find yourself surrounded by more Ticos than tourists.

Samara is a 7-km swath of palm-lined beach with a small village next to it, ringing a bay sheltered by a coral reef.  The calm waters are ideal for swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking, while the mild waves make it a great spot to learn how to surf.

Santa Teresa, on the other hand, has some bigger breaks, making it a popular spot for more seasoned surfers.  An up-and-coming spot for holiday seekers, it’s developing at a steady pace.  If the dance parties and crowds on the beach discourage you, head to the northern beach for a quieter experience.

Scuba-diving in the Santa Catalina Islands

A rocky archipelago off of the northwest coast of Costa Rica, the Santa Catalina islands are completely uninhabited — at least by humans.  Below the surface of the waves dwells a medley of sea creatures, including the Pacific giant manta ray.  Other species include other types of rays, sharks, turtles, and even the occasional whale.  For those possessing or hoping to acquire a scuba-diving certification, the Santa Catalina Islands are a perfect playground.

Be sure to watch for devil rays, known for flinging themselves through the air and mimicking flight, if only for a few moments.  Send me a picture if you’re lucky enough to get one!

Get Your Adventure on in Rincon de la Viaje National Park

If you’re tired of the pounding surf and the sandy beaches of Guanacaste, then perhaps it’s time for a trip to Rincon de la Viaje National Park to explore its eponymous cinder cone volcano.  Hike or ride a horse along one of the park’s trails, or get a little more extreme and go tubing in the river, mountain biking in the forests, or swimming in one of the waterfall pools.

Be sure not to leave the park without soaking in one of the geothermal mud pools.  A perfect treat after a day of exploring the park, the mud baths are sure to leave you feeling relaxed and comfortable, as well as a little slimy.  Just check with park staff or look for a sign to indicate that the pool is safe to soak in.  No one wants a Dante’s Peak moment…

Watch the Crocodile Hunt in Ortega

Are you bored by hunting for candy-filled eggs every Easter?  Then fear not, because the town of Ortega has something just for you.  The Lagarteada — a 200-year-old festival that involves locals referred to as ‘Lizard Men’ wading into the river to lure and trap a crocodile.  Yeah, you read that correctly.

The crocodile isn’t killed but is kept in a pool in the town center until Easter Sunday, when it is released back into the river.   This wasn’t always the case, but Costa Rica’s reputation as an eco-friendly destination hinges on making changes to such traditions, and the festival is monitored by animal rights activists to make sure the crocs aren’t harmed.  That said, they still are accidentally harmed or killed sometimes, so make your own decision on whether or not to attend.

Soak in Costa Rica’s Culture during Culture Week in Liberia

The last week of February is filled with music, events, and color in Liberia — a former colonial hub in the middle of its transition to a tourism center.  Learn about Guanacaste’s folklore and traditions at one of the many events, and don’t forget to watch the sabaneros in action — those are the Costa Rican cowboys!

The usual rules for festivals apply here — keep a close eye on your belongings, don’t be shy about joining in if asked, and eat everything you see.  Absolutely everything!

Watch the Nesting Turtles at Ostional Wildlife Refuge

Every year during the rainy seasons, thousands of sea turtles crawl up out of the ocean to nest on the shores of Ostional Wildlife Refuge.  They dig out a small hollow in the sand and lay their eggs, then cover their future offspring and make their way back to the sea.  It’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience for most, and Ostional is one of the best places to do it!

When you visit, be sure to respect the fragile nature of the place and do not interfere with the turtles in any way.  Do not touch or get too close to them, do not block their path, and absolutely do not pick up any eggs.  It’s also important to only visit the beach with a guide, as guards patrolling the area will stop you if you are walking around alone.

Surf the Waves near Tamarindo

Another recommendation from my cousin, Tamarindo is a touristy destination, but it’s also one of the most stunning beaches in the country AS WELL AS one of the best surf spots.  With surfing, sport fishing, a number of discoteques, and a central location from which to explore Guanacaste, Tamarindo is a beach enthusiast’s daydream!

For those turned off by the bustle and touristy nature of Tamarindo, head to nearby Playa Grande to surf and watch nesting turtles, or to Playa Langosta for a laid-back atmosphere and unspoiled beauty.

Enjoy the Colonial Architecture of Liberia

Liberia has an interesting mix of influences, from the modern infrastructure of a tourism hub to the ‘Wild West’ feel of a frontier town, and finally to the Old European feel of a colonial capital.  Walk through its streets — it’s one of Costa Rica’s oldest towns, after all — and enjoy the white-washed walls topped with bright red tiles.  It’s no wonder the place is known as the White City.

Don’t miss the Iglesia de la Agonia, Liberia’s oldest church and a great example of that colonial architecture.  Check out the Sabaneros Museum as well, if only to prepare for the next item on our list…

Go Horseback Riding with a Sabanero

Horses and the cowboy way of life are crucial to the identity and culture of the Guanacaste region, something which will quickly become apparent as you spend time there.  It’s not uncommon to see sabaneros riding horses along dusty paths, ushering herds of cattle along to other pastures.  There are rodeos in many towns and cities as well — a perfect place to see the sabaneros in action and showing off their skills.

Tourists can ride horses in many of the parks and tourist hot spots in the region, such as Rincon de la Viaje National Park.  For those with more colónes to spend, consider staying on a functioning ranch and spending a few days immersed in the life of a sabanero.

Try Some Costa Rican Cuisine!

Costa Rican cuisine is downright delicious, with the staples of rice, beans, and vegetables complemented by meat, eggs, and various fruits and salsas from the area.  Casado is an iconic dish that’s served in nearly every family home, with rice, beans, sauteed vegetables, fried plaintains, and your choice of meat.  And let’s not forget gallo pinto, Costa Rica’s favorite dish!  Typically eaten for breakfast, the meal includes a mixture of rice and beans, egg, meat, and fried plaintains, with tortillas on the side.  To top it off, salsa lizano is drizzled over the dish.  Enjoy!

There are countless other dishes to enjoy, such as chicarones, empanadas, and bizcochos.  Like my advice above for festivals, I recommend that you eat everything!

Have you ever been to Guanacaste in Costa Rica?  If so, what did you think?  What other things would you recommend for those interested in visiting?  Leave your  recommendations in the comments below!

The post Ten Awesome Things to Do in Guanacaste appeared first on The Open Road Before Me.

The year 2018 has come and gone, but Georgia remains a fantastic destination.  I was lucky enough to spend a couple months there last year, and I’ve put together a list of reasons to visit Georgia in 2019 (and beyond).

The Birthplace of Wine

The national identity of Georgia is inextricably linked with its wine culture.  Wine– and references to it– infuse Georgia’s art, its culinary traditions, its social structure, its economy, and more.  Recently added to the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List, the Georgian art of making wine using qvevri (ქვევრი) is an entirely unique process which uses clay pots buried in the ground to produce wine.  If you visit, a Georgian veritably bursting with national pride will tell you that Georgians invented wine — a fact that several years ago might have been seen as nothing but a boast.  But in 2017, archaeologists found evidence of wine production outside of Tbilisi from some 8,000 years ago — giving that ‘idle’ boast the heft of truth.

When you visit Georgia, drink deeply of the wine.  Quaff it as the locals do, in the dimly lit brick cellars with their arched ceilings and haze of smoke from too many cigarettes.  Drink it from a qantsi (ყანწი) if you can, and make your toasts as loquacious and elegant as those of your host.  Visit Sighnaghi — a town known for its wine production — or Telavi, and be sure to try my favorite vintage, Kindzmarauli (ქინძმარაული).

Georgia’s Cuisine

Georgia’s food is as rich and varied as its history.  It’s hearty, it’s filling, and it’s absolutely delicious.  Grilled and stewed meats mixed with fruits, vegetables, and nuts; produce so fresh it’s ridiculous; homemade cheese, and wines, and sauces; more of everything than you could possibly eat — but you’re encouraged to make your best effort to finish it all.  It’s a culture that embraces the feast, perhaps more than any other culture I’ve seen.

There are the classics: khachapuri (ხაჭაპური), khinkali (ხინკალი), lobiani (ლობიანი), churchkhela (ჩურჩხელა)… all fantastic.

But don’t miss out on the lesser-known dishes.  Ostri (ოსტრი), ghomi and kharcho (ღომი ხარჩო), chashushuli (ჩაშუშული), and more.  Try everything set in front of you, and wash it down with some of that Georgian wine or — if you’re bold — chacha (ჭაჭა), the Georgian home-brewed firewater that will leave you wishing you’d stuck to wine when the next morning rolls around.

Check out my city guide for Tbilisi here, and you’ll find some recommendations for some of my favorite spots in Georgia’s capital.

Trekking in the Southern Caucasus

Georgia is swiftly becoming one of the premier hiking destinations in Europe, if not the world.  With mountains along its whole northern border and much of the interior, Georgia has plenty of places to be explored, and the tourism infrastructure is still in its infancy throughout much of the territory — giving it a wilder feel.  Some danger goes hand in hand with that wildness, however.  It’s not uncommon to have to deal with shepherd dogs while on many trails (my experience hiking 75 km from Shatili to Omalo in Tusheti is a perfect example), and weather conditions can be harsh and change swiftly.  Altitude is also a factor, as can be theft.

But the rewards… the rewards are vast.  Ruined monasteries and hill fortresses can be found in verdant valleys, surrounded on all sides by snow-crowned peaks.  Vast screes glisten with melt-water from the glaciers above, and waking up in the morning to the sun cresting the opposite ridge-line is one of those memories that will stick with you for the rest of your life.  The Tusheti area is magnificent, as is the area around Gergeti Trinity Church.  But perhaps my favorite area for hiking was Racha.

When you visit Georgia and travel through Oni, stay at the Gallery Guest House in Oni — the food and hospitality there is out of this world!  And say hi to Nika and his family while you’re there.

Study One of the Most Unique Languages in the World

Georgian is an old language, and one of a small family of languages exclusive to the old territory of the kingdom of Kartli.  It’s an isolated tongue, linguistically distinct from other languages save for the 3 other dialects within the Kartvelian language family.  With about 4 million native speakers, it’s not the most practical of languages for outsiders to study, but there is an appeal.  A truly unique tongue, an alphabet used in only one country, some of the most truly difficult sounds to ever come forth from a human’s throat…

All kidding aside, studying Georgian before you visit Georgia is a great way to increase your appreciation for the culture there.  At least learn the alphabet — it’s phonetic and not too difficult — so that you can order food with ease at hole-in-the-wall restaurants around the country.  I recommend Beginner’s Georgian by Dodona Kiziria — it’s a great course with audio CD accompaniment that served me well for my several months of language study leading up to the trip.

Visit a Place with History Stretching Back More Than 8,000 Years

Georgia’s geographical position between the Caspian and Black Sea has made it a nexus of history — mainly as a territory caught up in the ebb and flow of larger empires.  Starting out as the empires of Colchis and Iberia — the former of which will sound familiar to fans of Homer — the tiny state went on to be conquered and controlled by the Mongol, Iranian, Ottoman, and Russian Empires before eventually becoming part of the Soviet Union.  Its incarnation as the Republic of Georgia has only been official since 1991.

These ebbs and flows have left traces scattered throughout the country — from the pre-Christian ruins of Uplistsikhe to the ruins of the old Persian fortress now known as Narikala in Tbilisi.  There are even some Ottoman-style baths in the Old Quarter of Tbilisi still in operation.  Soviet architecture, monuments, and more can be found without even trying.

Experience a True Georgian Supra

The Georgian supra (სუფრა) is one of the most iconic aspects of Georgian culture, as it takes the Georgian love of food, wine, and song and combines everything into one extravaganza of all three.  A supra, put simply, is a feast, but there is so much more to it than that.  There are social aspects to it, deep-rooted traditions involving the role of the tamada (toastmaster) and the profundity of toasts throughout the meal.

If you are lucky enough to be invited to a supra, accept the invitation and soak in the experience.  Make every toast, try every dish, and join in on every song — even if you just hum and clap along as your hosts wow you with their harmonization skills.  After all, every Georgian is a musician.

Make a Visit (or a Pilgrimage?) to the Birthplace of Stalin

While I didn’t have much interest in this aspect of Georgia, there is a certain morbid fascination with seeing the childhood stomping grounds of Georgia’s most famous (or infamous) son, one Ioseb Besarionis dze Jughashvili — a man who would later become known as Joseph Stalin.  His hometown of Gori (გორი) is a short bus ride from Tbilisi and features a Stalin museum which, by many accounts, is well worth the visit.

With exhibits including his childhood house, railway carriage, and even a copy of his death mask, it’s said to be an unsettlingly fawning collection of memorabilia.

I didn’t go, so I can’t verify that.  I’m of the belief that someone responsible for the deaths of millions of his own subjects (anywhere from 6 to upwards of 20 million depending on the source) deserves to be relegated to the dustbin of history.  If you’re of a similar mind, there’s another reason to visit Gori, which brings us to our next point…

Explore the Caverns of One of Several Cave Cities

Cave cities.  Georgia’s got several of them; the grandest of which is Vardzia (ვარძია), the seat of power for Queen Tamar — one of Georgia’s most beloved monarchs.  Located in the country’s southwest, Vardzia was an entire city built into the side of a cliff, with rooms hollowed out of caves and elaborate escape passages dug out into the valley.  I was lucky enough to visit with my friend Nino, who literally grew up around the corner from the cave complex.  She was able to give me an insider’s tour of Vardzia — how cool is that?!

Another cave complex is located just outside of Stalin’s Gori: the pre-Christian ruins of Uplistsikhe (უფლისციხე).  Settled as early as 8,000 years ago, the city was a bastion of power and influence in the kingdom of Kartli.  The rise of Christendom coincided with its downfall, however, a slow deterioration which led to the total abandonment of the settlement during the Mongol raids of the 14th century.  Now, it’s a shell, but one steeped in age and atmosphere.  Highly recommended when (not if) you visit Georgia!

Shred the Slopes at a Fraction of the Cost

I’m going to start off this recommendation by addressing the elephant in the room.  Remember that video that surfaced in early 2018 about a ski resort in some ex-Soviet backwater that malfunctioned and was hurling skiers and snowboarders through the air as its chairs sped backward before crashing into a tangled pile of metal?  Yeah, that was in Georgia.  This is the video.

Now that THAT bit of unpleasantness is out of the way, there are some good winter sports options in the northern parts of the country. If you’re still keen to shred the slopes after watching that video, Georgia offers a great alternative to the pricey ski resorts of the Alps.  Check out Gudairi (გუდაური), Bakuriani (ბაკურიანი), and Mestia (მესტია).  Just, you know, don’t get too cozy on those chairs.

Be ready to bail.

Be Smothered in Wonderful, Georgian Hospitality

One of the biggest reasons to visit Georgia is the culture of hospitality that infuses it.  In a country where wine flows freely and food is piled high on tables and picnic cloths for guests to enjoy, it’s no wonder that most travelers leave Georgia with a warm and fuzzy impression of the place.

I know my experience was largely shaped by the friendship and generosity of my good friend Nino and all the wonderful people I met through her.  Nino basically declared herself my tour guide and introduced me to Georgian food, to the traditions of the supra, to the Tbilisi jazz scene, and so much more.  Then, at the end of my trip, she took me to her childhood home of Vardzia and showed me the home of the legendary Queen Tamar.

When you visit Georgia, make an effort to meet some Georgians.  Learn a bit of the language and be fearless about butchering the pronunciation — it’s not a matter of if, but when.  People will love you for trying, and doors will open.

And most importantly, try every bit of food and drink that is thrust your way.  You’ll be glad you did!

How about you?  Have you ever been to visit Georgia?  How was your overall impression of the place? What would you add to this list?  Let me know in the comments below!

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It’s been a few years since I’ve done a Christmas letter.  Perhaps that’s because my last one didn’t go over too well with relatives back home.  Perhaps it was just the craziness of my schedule at the end of 2016 as I geared up for my third year in Korea.  Perhaps it was just laziness.  Yeah, there was a bit of that.  But when I think about 2018, I feel a need to do this, if only for myself.

You see, it was a big year.  A crucible in every sense — several epic adventures in some far-flung corners paired with the most unimaginable of heartache.  It was a year of trials, obstacles, and fear.  It was a year of conquering physical ailments, smashing down obstacles, and reaping the benefits of exploration.  It was a year of death.  A year of love.

The year began with family — I’d flown back from Korea for a family wedding that never happened.  It was a whirlwind visit, but seeing my family after nearly a year away was great.  Then it was back to work in Pohang, banging out two more months of corralling my little monsters until the end of my teaching contract.

But life threw the most vicious of curve-balls my way and, in February, everything changed.

One of my best friends, a guy I’ve called a brother since grade school, suddenly and unexpectedly passed away.  It was like someone had taken my universe and shaken it; I was left reeling in shock and grief.  Being overseas at the time, away from family and friends, made the shock even more potent, and I can’t thank my friends in Korea and all around the world enough for their consolation during that time.

I was so tempted to scrap my planned trip to the Caucasus in March.  Going on holiday just didn’t feel right, and I wasn’t sure I’d be able to enjoy it.  But as soon as I thought of canceling my adventures, I knew the idea was ridiculous.  Not from a financial standpoint, but I knew that Cody, the friend who had passed, would’ve slapped me upside the head for even thinking it.

So I went, and spent just over four months exploring the Caucasus.  I immersed myself in the capital cities of Tbilisi and Yerevan, eating more food than I should’ve and quaffing wine as the locals do.  I even made some very dear friends and hope to return someday.

And the mountains… oh, they were surreal!  The Caucasus are a mountain range on the southern border of Russia with multiple peaks in excess of 5,000 meters.  I just about hiked my legs off, pushing my just-rehabilitated knee to its limits with my summit of Mount Aragats and a 75-kilometer trek from Shatili to Omalo.  I faced my fears of hiking at altitude and successfully summited the highest peak I’ve ever climbed.  I came face to face with that fear deep in the Caucasus when I had to drag myself up a mountain pass as the temperature plunged and packed snow blocking the trail threatened to send me sliding down the mountain.

An interlude at home came next — a period of several months where I spent my time enjoying the place where Cody and I had both grown up.  I desperately needed the time with friends, old and new, as we grieved the one we’d lost.  Cody’s celebration of life was one of the most beautiful, emotionally exhausting days I’ve ever experienced, but it was a necessary step for me to move on from the events of February.

Later that summer, a good friend I met in New Zealand came all the way out from Germany to visit, and we set off on an epic road trip down the coasts of Washington, Oregon, and California.  It was a great week and really helped me appreciate the beauty of the area that I’m from.  It wasn’t without its hiccups, however, as I managed to acquire some gastritis towards the end, which made the following week a very uncomfortable one.

Southern Africa came next, with my sister, Alisha, and my Korean sister, Se.  Compared to my solo trip through the Caucasus, this adventure was a piece of cake, as we had our hands held the entire way.  The experience was a fulfillment of so many childhood dreams, including going to one of my dream destinations when we visited Namibia.  There’s a reason safaris in Africa are so popular — there really is no other place like it!

Then, for my last adventure of the year, I boarded a plane for Guatemala for five weeks of relaxation, with a little bit of adventure mixed in.  I got both, spending three weeks on the shores of Lake Atitlan before heading off to Antigua to climb an erupting volcano.  Yeah, that happened.  And yes, I told my mother… after I got back   I’m not crazy!

That’s when the second curve-ball of the year hit me, but this time it was much more welcome.  You see, I fell in love.

Cody made a habit of journaling every day — a habit which has given those of us left behind the means to hold a piece of him close.  A common practice of his was to lay out what he was thankful for every day.  These weren’t token things like family, friends, food, etc.  These were specific and detailed, and they changed from day to day.  Cody focused on the elements and people in his life that made it worth living and was methodical about making sure he cherished them.  He practiced rigorous self-examination and consistently worked to improve his way of thinking, advance his progress in the achievement of his dreams, and cultivate the relationships he held most dear.  While I haven’t been journaling daily, as he did, I have been actively trying to work some of his ideology into the way I approach my life.  Being mindful of the things I have to be thankful for.  Looking for ways to improve myself.  Not letting opportunities pass.

So when I met Luz in Antigua, Guatemala and realized what was happening between us, I didn’t want to toe the line.  I wanted to seize the moment and get swept away in its current.  Improbably, unimaginably, she felt the same, and we both dove headlong into that river.  I don’t know what lies ahead for us, but I can’t wait to see what it is!

So in 2018, as I prepare to spend another Christmas with family and friends, I’m going to try and focus on the positives and think about what I’m thankful for.  I’m thankful more than ever for my health, that lets me be as active as I like.  I’m thankful for the jobs I’ve been able to get, which have provided me with the money necessary to go on these trips that I love.  I’m thankful for friends the world over who love me like a brother or a son, and who don’t mind that years often go by between our reunions.  I’m thankful for a family that supports me and always welcomes me home.  I’m thankful for my two little nieces (not by blood, aunties, don’t worry!) who remind me that hope is still alive and that the world is still a beautiful place just waiting to be explored.  And now, I’m thankful for the love that I’ve found and the sense of bliss it infuses me with.

No matter how bitter life gets, no matter how much is taken away from me, I hope I can always find the strength and clarity to be thankful — just like Cody taught me.

Be mindful this holiday season, when you’re spending time with your family and friends.  Be mindful of the fleeting nature of all of these things we have.  Don’t leave things unsaid or opportunities unseized.  Say, “I love you.”  Buy that plane ticket.  Climb that mountain.  Ask for that kiss   Because life does not wait for you to experience it.  It is a wild, raging river, and we must cast ourselves into it with abandon to seize hold of all that it offers.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays, everyone.  Thanks for reading!

The post Christmas Letter 2018 appeared first on The Open Road Before Me.

All Nature’s wildness tells the same story: the shocks and outbursts of earthquakes, volcanoes, geysers, roaring, thundering waves and floods, the silent uprush of sap in plants, storms of every sort, each and all, are the orderly, beauty-making love-beats of Nature’s heart.

John Muir

Guatemala has at least 37 volcanoes — the highest concentration in Central America.  While many are dormant or extinct, there are several active ones, of which Volcán de Fuego is perhaps the most infamous.  This is especially true in 2018 after a June eruption killed more than 150 people and displaced thousands.  While that eruption was Fuego’s most powerful in over 40 years, the volcano is nearly constantly active, belching out smoke and fire day in and day out.  Crazily enough, there are companies that lead tours up the adjacent Volcán de Acatenango and even onto the treacherous ‘Knife Ridge’ that is leveled at Fuego’s fiery gullet…

Climbing Acatenango and Fuego

We set out early, meeting at the OX headquarters in Antigua at 7:00 in the morning to pack our bags and eat a quick breakfast.  From there, it was just over an hour to the trail-head.  The ascent was merciless from the get-go, with an exposed slog through cornfields comprising the entire first leg of the hike.  Since the track starts at just under 2,500 meters in elevation, altitude is a factor,  so we went slowly and took plenty of breaks to rest and hydrate.

After the sun-baked grind through the fields, entering the cool shade of the cloud forest was a welcome reprieve.  Thick tree-cover hung with ferns and vines kept the sky from us, save for the stray beams of sunlight that dappled the forest floor.  It was strange to think that we were on a volcano which had erupted as recently as the ’70s; indeed, it felt more akin to a rainforest far removed from any sort of life-purging flame.

The shift from cloud forest to alpine forest is sudden, as if all the lush vegetation mutually decided that none of it would grow higher than this elevation.  But the shift in flora didn’t make for a barren landscape.  The sweet tang of pine needles filled our nostrils, and alpine flowers blossomed in purples, reds, and yellows along the dusty path.

Solitary Volcán de Agua loomed in the distance, its 3,760-meter bulk dwarfing the surrounding hills.  But not our Acatenango.  Acatenango reaches a height of 3,976 meters, while Fuego tops out at 3,763 — give or take a few layers of transitory volcanic rock and ash. When climbing Acatenango, you feel every meter!

After a lunch break during which we hoovered some fantastic sandwiches, we carried on as the first clouds of the day gathered around us.  The wind picked up as well, and it wasn’t uncommon for a wisp of cloud to be harried past us before disappearing around the shoulder of the volcano.

When we (at last) reached our Base Camp, Fuego lay before us — a titan of smoldering menace intermittently shrouded in cloud.

Every few minutes, a puff of smoke would burst from its cone, roiling black and thick through the cloud cover.  Occasionally, the spectacle would be accompanied by a low rumble, followed by the clattering of searingly hot stones cascading down Fuego’s flanks.

After a short break at Base Camp, two of us set out with our guide, Miguel, towards that rumbling, fiery giant across the valley.  The descent down Acatenango was frenzied — a literal sprint down a steep slope with thick layers of fine, volcanic stone.  After the first few, terrifying steps, the experience became exhilarating, feeling for all the world like cross-country skiing down a volcano.  It basically was, sans any skis.

But that descent only meant we had to climb back up to reach the Knife Ridge of Fuego, and we set out from the saddle between the two peaks with weary steps.  A sea of clouds broke against the flanks of Acatenango behind us, and the glow of the sinking sun tinged them with gold.

When we crested the ridge-line and saw Fuego smoldering in barely contained fury before us, I could feel a chill go through me — and not just from the cold!  The path dropped sharply to either side, and Miguel made a point of showing us which way to fall if we lost our balance.  “Don’t fall this way, you’ll die.  If you fall this way, you’ll just slide for a very, very long time.”

Thanks, dude.

Other groups trudged behind us, and we all stopped just beyond a scattering of fresh rocks from a recent eruption.  Because, you know… safety.

The sun dropped further towards the horizon, and we huddled on the safe side of the ridge to take shelter from the wind.  I had a thermal layer, a fleece, and a windbreaker, but I was still freezing.  Waiting became a war of attrition, and I alternated which hand I kept exposed to work my camera shutter as I tucked the other as deep into my pocket as I could manage.  Miguel stood staring out over the clouds, oblivious to the elements.

In the distance, Volcán de San Pedro loomed over a cloud-covered Lago de Atitlán, where I’d spent the last few weeks staying in Santa Cruz la Laguna.

Darkness fell, and Fuego’s eruptions turned fiery, lending credence to its name.  In Spanish, it literally translates to Volcano of Fire, while the Mayan name of Chi’gag translates to, ‘Where the Fire Is’.  Apt.

We descended Fuego and made our way back up Acatenango in total darkness, picking our way gingerly down the steep slope and practically crawling the last several hundred meters up into camp.  Dinner and a fire waited for us, followed by a cold, windy night on packed earth as Fuego rumbled and shook in the distance.

Morning came much too soon, as we all got up at 4:00 am for a pre-dawn ascent of the summit of Acatenango.  Bleary-eyed and groggy from a restless night at altitude, we trudged up the slope as the sky began to lighten, cresting the rim of the crater just minutes before sunrise.

The sun rose just over the shoulder of Volcán de Agua, painting the clouds below and the neighboring peaks in soft reddish-orange light.  Fuego sent up its regular plumes of ash and the occasional belch of lava, prompting cheers of “FUEGOOOOO!!!!” from gathered onlookers.

Lake Atitlán was visible behind us, with its vanguard of smaller volcanoes dwarfed by the shadow of Acatenango.

As we’d learned the night before, sometimes the easiest way to descend a volcano is to run straight down, so that’s what we did.  A steep pitch covered in a deep layer of loose stone made for a surprisingly safe ‘ski’ slope.  We took giant, leaping steps down, sliding up to a meter per step down the scree.

We took our time eating breakfast while Miguel and Milton broke down camp.  When it came time to bid Fuego farewell, we waited for one last eruption before heading back along the trail.  Behind us, the Volcano of Fire rumbled on, sending ash and fire into the clear blue expanse of the sky.

Review of Ox Expeditions

Climbing Acatenango and Fuego with Ox Expeditions has undoubtedly been the highlight of my trip. Not only was the experience extremely epic and satisfying, but the guiding expertise and overall organization of the trip by Miguel and Milton were exceptional.  They handled our group of 14 with aplomb, easily adapting to the different hiking abilities present in our group.  The food was better than I expected and having the crew set-up/tear-down camp AND prepare all the meals was a welcome surprise.

The administrative side of Ox was a little less organized, as my hike was rescheduled at the last minute — forcing me to frantically adjust some travel plans because of the inconvenience.  That said, Ox made good on the snafu and organized my transport to Antigua AND comped my pre-trip night’s sleep in their dorm.

I’d definitely recommend them as a tour operator and would highly encourage you to use them for climbing Acatenango and Fuego when you eventually visit Guatemala!

What to Bring

• Good hiking shoes.  I use Merrell Moab or Chameleon hiking boots and have always been impressed with them!
• A windbreaker.  I use the Arc’teryx Incendo hoody and love how I can just stuff it into my pocket when I’m not using it.
• Thermal layers.  Bring these for top AND bottom, as it gets very cold when you’re climbing Acatenango — sometimes the temps are sub-zero!
• Tough, breathable long pants.  You’ll be sweating a lot, so jeans are a strict no-no, while the rough volcanic stone can chew up flimsy materials.  Get something comfortable, tough, and protective for the hike up — I use Coalatree’s Trailhead pants.
• A fleece jacket.  Columbia makes great quality fleeces for affordable prices.
• GLOVES! I forgot these and ended up having to put wool socks over my hands to keep them warm.
• A warm hat.
• Snacks.  While lunch, dinner, and breakfast are provided, snacks are not; so bring some chocolate, nuts, berries, or your favorite hiking food to snack on during the many breaks you’ll take on the way to the summit.
• Sunscreen.  Needless to say, there’s not a lot of shade on top of the volcanoes, so you’ll be getting some prime exposure to the sun while at altitude — a recipe for a gnarly sunburn if you’re not prepared.

Things Ox Can Loan You

OX has gear to lend or rent for those who don’t have their own for climbing Acatenango, Fuego, and the other peaks they lead expeditions up.  Here’s all the stuff I borrowed:

• Sleeping bag
• Sleeping pad
• Backpack
• Eating utensils
• More… check with Ox if there’s something you need.  They might have it on hand for you to borrow/rent.

Hiking sticks are available to rent for 5 quetzales at the trailhead.

How about you?  Have you ever been climbing on Acatenango, or any other volcano?  If so, how was your experience?  Would you do it again?  Let me know in the comments below!

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Pull up a chair. Take a taste. Come join us. Life is so endlessly delicious.

Ruth Reichl

Cooking Class in Antigua

When I arrived in Guatemala fresh off the plane from my adventures in southern Africa, I headed straight for the colonial capital of Antigua — a picturesque, easily walk-able city nestled in a valley surrounded by volcanoes.  After a bit of research, I found two decent cooking school options: La Tortilla and El Frijol Feliz.  La Tortilla seemed to have the best value of dishes in relation to price, so I messaged them and set up my cooking class in Antigua.

Atol Blanco

Many foreigners will think coffee is the most Guatemalan of drinks, but that’s only the one most commonly exported.  No, the most Guatemalan drink out there is atol blanco, a thick concoction made from corn flour and served hot.  There are many variations, two of which we made during our cooking class in Antigua: sweet and salty.  While I almost always choose the sweet option, the salty version had just a hint of spice and was oh, so tasty.  I highly recommend it!

Ingredients

Directions

Cook the cornflour with water for 30 minutes, stirring constantly. For the sweet version, add the cinnamon stick to the water. For the salty version, add the bay leaf. When the mixture has a thicker consistency and is very smooth without any lumps, the Atol Blanco is ready. Depending on which version you prefer, add the other ingredients to your taste.

Picado de Rabano

This healthy salad makes for a refreshing and light side in a cuisine that leans towards heavy main dishes.  Simple, easy to prep, and with a nice balance of flavors, it is the dish I definitely feel most comfortable recreating!

Ingredients

Directions

Trim off the ends of the radishes and then cut them into quarters. Leave the skin on to keep the flavor and the color. Boil the radishes with plenty of water until soft (approx. 20 min). Take them out of the water and let them cool. When they are cool enough to handle, remove the skin and cut them into small cubes. Dice and add the onions, lime juice, thyme, and salt to your taste. Serve the salad as a cold side dish.

Guatemalan Rice

The base of our meal during our cooking class in Antigua came in the form of Guatemalan rice — rice cooked with onions and carrots.  Another easy-to-recreate dish, this one can be modified as you like, substituting new vegetables and potentially even adding some spice.  I would definitely add some extra flavors unless the main dish I was cooking had a flavorful sauce…

Ingredients

Vegetables can be substituted as you prefer.

Directions

Peel the vegetables and cut them into small strips. Fry the vegetables in oil, stirring them until the onions are crystallized. Then, add the rice and keep stirring for 5 minutes more. Add enough water to cover the contents of the pot and cook thoroughly until done (approx. 20 min). Serve the rice as a side dish.

Pepían

Few dishes are more emblematic of Guatemalan cuisine than pepían, a hearty stew that’s a blend of Spanish and Mayan influences.  We made ours with chicken, though it can be made with pork or beef as well.  Remember how I talked about the necessity for the main dish in this meal to have a flavorful sauce in order to spice up the rice?  Pepían delivers on that, with a fragrant blend of chilies, cloves, allspice, cilantro, cinnamon, and sesame comprising the aromatic sauce.

Ingredients

Directions

Use a comal or a flat frying pan and roast the tomatoes without oil on a high flame until the skin is loose and a little black, and the tomatoes are soft. Once roasted, place the tomatoes in a bowl with 1 cup of water.

Peel the güisquil and potatoes and cut them into cubes. Boil the vegetables with approximately 1 liter of water. Cut the chicken into a few big pieces. When the vegetables have cooked for approximately 5 minutes, add the chicken with the bones included. Add a little bit of cilantro and a tablespoon of salt.

While the chicken and vegetables are boiling you can finely chop the rest of the cilantro and cut the onion into half slices. Roast the cilantro and onion and place them with the tomatoes in the bowl of water. Then roast the de-seeded and de-veined chilies, placing them in the water with the rest of the roasted vegetables once they are done. Now roast the sesame and pumpkin seeds, but make sure you put a cover on the pan when you do so. They have a tendency to pop up when heated. Finally, roast the allspice, cloves, and cinnamon until the cloves get grey. Add all of this to the bowl of water.

Put all of the roasted ingredients with the water in the blender. Blend until it is a smooth liquid and add to the stockpot with the chicken, stirring until incorporated. Continue letting it cook without stirring it. Blend the cornflour with a little bit of water and add it to the sauce as a thickener. When all the vegetables and the chicken are cooked thoroughly your pepían is ready. Usually, this dish is served with Guatemalan rice.

Rellenitos de Plátano

Rellenitos are a strange little dish, combining the sweetness of ripe plantains with the bitterness of chocolate and the earthy taste of black beans.  The end result — rolled into balls and then fried in oil — is a strange blend of flavors that I think is pretty fantastic.  We ate ours with some leftover sauce, though you can also sprinkle them with powdered sugar or drizzle them with honey.

Ingredients

Directions

Cut off the ends of the plantains and discard them. Cut the rest into 4 parts while leaving the skin on. Wash the plantains and cook them in a pot of water together with the cinnamon and sugar for about 10 minutes. When cooked, drain the water and save it. This water is really healthy, as it has a lot of potassium, and can be drunk. Peel the plantains and mash them into a smooth paste without any lumps. Let it cool.

In a pan, cook the chocolate with ¼ cup of water until completely melted. Add the black refried beans and mix well until they form a paste.

Heat sufficient oil in a large frying pan. Take a little bit of plantain paste and form a small bowl. Add one teaspoon of the chocolate/bean mixture and close the bowl so it forms an egg-shaped ball with the chocolate/bean mixture inside. Make sure there are no holes or gaps so the filling cannot leak out. Fry the stuffed plantains until they have a light golden brown color. You can serve them plain or with sugar.

Tortillas

Tortillas are essential to just about any Latin American meal, but making them is an art that takes some practice to master.  That was abundantly clear during our cooking class when I struggled to make a tortilla that was as thin and uniform in shape as those of our teacher, Odilia.  Mixing the dough is the easy part, as the only ingredients are corn flour and water.  Then, the tricky part begins.

Wet your hands slightly with water, tear off a clump of dough, and roll it into a ball.  Then, move the ball from hand to hand, using the top part of your palm and the fingertips of the other hand to flatten and smooth the dough.  Don’t use the hollow of your palm, as this will cause the dough to tear.

Ingredients

Directions

Mix the cornflour with water and knead until it becomes a smooth, thick dough, which always remains a little sticky. Put a little water on your hands and roll into a ball, clapping your hands to create the flat tortilla shape. Depending on your tortilla-making skills and preference you can make big or small tortillas.

Use a comal or a flat frying pan to fry the tortillas without any oil on a medium-low flame. Flip them from time to time. The tortillas are ready when they have little brown spots on them. This will normally take a few minutes.

Conclusion

Once we finished cooking our meal, Flor and I sat down with a glass of wine as Sully — the translator helping me follow along with the lesson — and Odilia set the table.  It turns out, we’d made a LOT of food, and both of us were able to eat our fill.  There were even enough leftovers for my lunch the next day!

Highlights were the atol blanco, the rellenitos, and the pepían, while the picado de rabano and Guatemalan rice were good, but nothing remarkable.  Sully and Odilia were absolutely lovely to work with, and I learned a lot!  If you’re looking for a cooking class in Antigua, La Tortilla gets my seal of approval!  Did I mention that you get free wine?

You get free wine.

How about you?  Have you ever done a cooking class in Antigua, or anywhere else?  Which country’s cuisine did you learn about, and what did you think?  Let me know in the comments below!

*All recipes are taken from La Tortilla’s cookbook and edited by me for spelling and grammar.

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