Bacuit Bay

Bacuit Grill Bar and Restaurant is an open-air dining place perfect for those who wish to see the sunset at the bay. It is on the far end of the bay so you might find yourself walking along the beach for quite some time just to get here. Its wooden columns and chairs, bamboo ceiling, and nipa walls and roofs provide that tropical beach ambiance. The sound of the waves rolling made our stay here more relaxing. As darkness fell, candles provided enough light for friendly conversations. I guess that’s the strongest appeal of this place — it allows customers to enjoy food without letting them forget that they are on the beach!

We somehow predicted, while observing other people’s orders, that the serving was humongous. While my friends ordered pasta, I had Crab in Sweet and Sour Sauce and rice. As expected, it was big. My blogging buddy and I had to share coz there was no way I could finish that one crab without dying due to high blood pressure. LOL. Besides,  it was really good for 2-3 persons. The sound of the crab’s shell as we break them to scoop out the meat was music to us as we were really starved coming from a five-hour trip from Puerto Princesa. The smell assured us that it was fresh — it did not smell malansa. It tasted good, too. I just wished they added something more to the dish. The crab was great but there was nothing special. The sauce was a letdown, too. It actually tasted like it came out of one of those bottles of ready-to-serve sauces.

But on the upside, where can you find a full serving of fresh, delicious crabs for only P190? I’m certainly not complaining.

Crab in Sweet and Sour Sauce (P190)

I also had a taste of my friends’ pasta dishes (carbonara and meat sauce). They were good. That’s all I can say. Nothing special. Tasted exactly what you would expect from an average restaurant. BUT the serving was really big.

Cocktails and pasta

I guess at this point, it is important to note that Bacuit Grill Bar and Resto is more of a bar than a sit-down restaurant. The food is great for the price because they offer generous servings. If dinner is what you want, this will satisfy but not blow you away. But if it’s drinks that you’re after, maybe it’s the place to be. But the real selling point of the place is its excellent, romantic location and ambiance.

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I keep three jobs to fund my travels. When I still had a full-time job, my office was just a block away from my apartment to save money on fares. Although commuting is already a part of me, I can’t help thinking how convenient it must be to own a car for traveling on impulse or for traveling to nearby provinces.

Let me give you an example. Two years ago, when I first heard about the Hot Air Balloon Festival in Clark, I swore to the gods that I would join and watch the balloons go up in the air. I had never seen a real hot air balloon up close and I thought it was my chance. But I found myself totally discouraged by the exhausting hunt for public transport. Last year, I planned on traveling to Clark again but laziness got the better of me. As much as I loved adventures, I disliked the idea of getting stranded at a bus terminal, much more spending the night there. Truth is, I hate crowds. This year, I’m at it again. The Hot Air Balloon Festival is drawing near and I’m thinking of getting a car yet again.

Here’s another reason why I think I need a car. I rent an apartment here in Manila but every other week, I visit my family in my hometown in Batangas. Like I said, I love commuting but commuting twice or thrice a month for four hours to Batangas depresses me especially that the shuttle I take does not have stopovers. Many times, I wish to just stop and have coffee in Alfonso, Cavite or grab a quick lunch in Tagaytay. Sometimes, I wish I could sing OUT LOUD while on the road. I wish I have total control of the trip.

But let’s face it. I probably would need a fourth job just to make that happen. And that means I would have to give up sleeping. Haha.

Anyway, I was commuting again when I saw this huge billboard of Derek Ramsay along EDSA and he’s endorsing an Auto Loan from EastWest Bank. It hit me again. Maybe I should really consider. So I browsed about auto loans from EastWest Bank and found out that they have an ongoing promo where participants can win 1-bedroom unit at the Beaufort, up to 1.7 million pesos, OR Mercedes-Benz S300 or Mercedes-Benz C180 Avantgarde, all tax-free. I’m a sucker for promos, haha, and I will surely be considering this.

I’m pretty sure some of you have dreamt of owning a car, too. And if you’re in the same situation as me, maybe you should also head over to EastWest Bank’s website and consider making a change in your life.

As a travel blogger, I’m looking at it as an investment. Commuting will still have a place in my heart but I really would like to have more freedom to visit more places in nearby provinces without worrying about bus or jeepney schedules. More places I visit mean more content for me.

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The El Nido Town Proper lies along Bacuit Bay, which is dotted with several islands that create a stunning view. I had been to many popular beaches in the country and many times I got bothered by boatmen offering tours and rides. It didn’t happen in El Nido. We were just there watching the sea and the skies and the sand, and enjoying our time.

While the sun was starting to call it a night, I removed my slippers and felt the sand and the waves on my feet. The sand was not as fine or white as that on Panglao Island in Bohol or Boracay but it was good enough for a tourist wanting to bond with nature. The view alone made me want to move to El Nido for good. It was that beautiful. As it started to get dark, we decided to walk and look for hostels where we could spend the next couple of nights.

From the shore, we got a good glimpse of beachfront hotels/hostels. Many times we stopped and inquired. We skipped the others as we knew they were too costly for us just by looking at them.

The view of the nearby islands added to the ambiance of the restaurants lined up along the bay. Tables were set up on the beach in some areas. Candles were lit. Music were turned on.

As we checked out one restaurant after another, we realized that most of the customers in the area were foreigners. In fact, we found ourselves the only Filipino tourists wherever we went. European words — English, Danish, German, French — filled the air.

When we reached the farthest restaurant where the flag of Denmark danced with the wind, we decided it was time to pick the place to have dinner at. We walked back a few steps to another restaurant and sat at a table behind a chalkboard with Happy Hour written on it. Tonight, we shall eat and drink and get drunk. And we shall get lost in the familiar yet strangely foreign embrace of El Nido as the pink skies get swallowed by the dark.

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At 6am, we were already at the pre-departure area waiting for boarding when my phone made a sound again. This time, it wasn’t a beep but a ring. A real, legitimate, yes-someone’s-calling-me ring. “Hello po, taga-Cliffside Cottages po ito,” said the voice on the other line when I picked up. Her name was Marilyn. And she just saved us from the possibility of sleeping in the streets of El Nido.

Cliffside Cottages

Ate Marilyn, the lady on the other end of the line, told me the good news. Cliffside Cottages had three vacant rooms and they could accommodate all seven of us. Sweet! I had the three rooms reserved for a night. Problem solved.

Location

In a destination where the good majority of hotels lie on the beachfront, Cliffside Cottages is a standout. Although it does not provide the therapeutic sound of the rolling waves and the blowing winds, Cliffside Cottages offers a fantastic view of the side of the mountain towering over the town. The cottages rest just beside a cliff that paints a good backdrop, adding a more rustic feel to the already nature-quiet atmosphere.

Cliffside Cottages and the giant wall beside it

Although not by the beach, Cliffside Cottages is a few blocks away from the shore. You have to enjoy a five- to seven-minute walk to get to the beach. It’s a short walk that will allow you to check out some of the town’s landmarks including the Church, a few bakeshops and some restaurants.

Rooms and Rates

Each cottage has two rooms that can accommodate up to two guests. I’m not sure how many but there are cottages that can accommodate up to three guests. These are non-aircon rooms but they are spacious. The room we got was equipped with a desk fan, a side table, a cabinet, and a couple of electrical outlets for your gadgets. Cottages also have porches where you can hang out and have coffee.

This is how a double room looks...

The only negative thing that I can throw at this place was that the sink and the bathroom, although clean, had brown, rusty stains that made us doubt the quality of the water. The shower in our room was also not functioning properly.

The rates were also very attractive. If you’re staying for more than one night, the double room is at P500/night. That’s P250/guest. If you’re staying overnight, it’s P600 per room per night.

…

If you’re on a budget, Cliffside Cottages can be a good option. I don’t think you’d mind its distance from the shore but you might find the restroom uninviting.

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For the Poor Traveler and his friends, however, its location is not an issue. I had been to Puerto Princesa several times and Coron once and nothing would stop me to visit El Nido. As early as booking our flights, I already knew how I would want to get there.

Choose Your El Nido Gateway

There are several ways to reach El Nido and here are three of them.

• Direct Flights. El Nido has its own airport but its short runway prevents most airlines using relatively big planes to land here. Seair has direct flights to El Nido but tickets are expensive (compared to other destinations in the country). There are also other companies offering chartered flights but the rate might be a little too much for many travelers.
• Via Coron. You may also consider flying to Coron. From there, big outrigger boats that travel to El Nido. The catch is that travel time is around 8 hours. And it also proves more expensive as you will have to fly to Coron first and then shell out a couple of thousand pesos to boat to El Nido.
• Via Puerto Princesa. For me, the wisest choice have to be the Puerto Princesa route. From Manila, there are several cheap flights to Puerto Princesa City, Palawan’s capital. From there, there are buses and vans that can take you on a road trip to El Nido. Travel time is five to six hours.

Our choice was obviously via Puerto Princesa because we had already booked a flight with Airphil Express when they slashed their base fares to only P100 last March for their anniversary sale. We took the 7:30am flight and we arrived at 8:40am, as scheduled.

Airphil Express A320 at the Puerto Princesa airport

Upon arrival, we approached the Tourism Booth near the Baggage Claim section of the Puerto Princesa Airport and asked for their recommendation on the best way to reach El Nido. The two friendly staff manning the booth explained the bus and shuttle options to us.

Bus vs Van

If you’re traveling to El Nido via Puerto Princesa City, you may choose to take the bus or van (shuttle). According to the guys at the Tourism Booth, there are trips to El Nido every hour from 5am to 8am every day. The bus ride takes 6-8 hours because there are at least two stops, usually in Roxas and in Taytay. The fare is around P350.

Fort Wally Shuttle Services, on the other hand, carries passengers to El Nido every day at 5am, 7am, 9am, 11am and 1pm. It usually takes 5-6 hours and stops only once. It is also more comfortable by van but the fare is double — P700 per person. The best part about the van is that they are willing to pick you up at the hotel or wherever you are in downtown Puerto Princesa.

Fort Wally Shuttle Service contact numbers

The Fort Wally staff who entertained us offered us a deal — P1200 for roundtrip, which we gladly took. We asked them to pick us up at the Balinsasayaw Restaurant where we planned to have brunch. We also got their number so we could inform them where they would pick us up in El Nido for our return trip to Puerto Princesa.

At 11am, the van picked us up at the restaurant, made a quick stop at their office to pick up more passengers and then we were on the way to El Nido.

The Long Road to El Nido

Six hours. I knew exactly how I would spend the six hours that we would be on the road to El Nido — SLEEP. Because I did not have enough sleep, trying to look for a place to stay online the night before, I decided I’d sleep the entire time. And I did, almost. When the van pulled over in front of an eatery, I grabbed a quick lunch. And once we were back on the road, I slept again. Up until the rough road started to rattle my slumber. I wasn’t able to sleep since then.

Don’t worry, though, because the rocky part wasn’t that long. The paved road made a comeback several minutes later but then the scenery caught my attention.

View on the way to El Nido from Puerto Princesa

If you’re on the left side of the van like I was, you’ll have a great view of the sea and other islets playing hide and seek with you as trees cover and reveal them every now and then. It was a fantastic experience having a glimpse of what was in store for us!

Arriving in El Nido

The sun was nearly kissing the horizon when our van stopped at a small terminal. I knew it was time to hop out. We were there. Hey, El Nido, nice to meet you.

The first thing I noticed was the imposing limestone cliffs surrounding the quiet town. While our driver was helping us with our bags, I was busy falling in love with this giant wall-mountain as though it was etched by the gods. The holes in the wall were not flaws but signs of life as birds flew in and out of them like little children running around at a playground.

The steep Karst cliffs surrounding the town of El Nido as seen from the terminal

As soon as we got our things, we were approached by tricycle drivers who offered to take us to our hotel. There were seven of us in the group and it took two trikes to get us all to the Cliffside Cottages.

“It has started,” I said as I stared at this giant cliff towering above me. The break that I had always wanted, “It has started.”

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Bacuit Bay, El Nido at low tide

Every stress that work had brought me in the past few weeks was blown away by the wind, washed away by the waves of El Nido. Who would have thought that I would still find myself enjoying this trip stress-free given that there was no extensive planning whatsoever that happened.

Yep, no planning. Whatsoever. I’m a bad traveler.

Booking a Flight to El Nido

It all started when Airphil Express celebrated their first anniversary last March and cut the cost of many of their seats to only P100. After a brief consultation with friends, we decided to book flights to Puerto Princesa. My friends had not been to Puerto Princesa but I had been there several times before. So before they could be overly excited about touring Puerto Princesa, I quickly brought up the idea of traveling 6 hours by van/bus to El Nido.

Airphil Express A320 at the Puerto Princesa airport

Everyone loved the idea. It was my turn to get overly excited because I had never been to El Nido before and it was my ultimate dream to see what this North Palawan town has to offer.

By the way, we got our roundtrip tickets for only P200 (base fare, P100 one way) plus P153 taxes and other applicable fees. That’s P353, total. Spell CHEAP. I loved it!

Finding Cheap Hotel/Hostel in El Nido

This trip could not come at a better time. Work load had been horrible in the past few weeks that I wasn’t able to plan the trip — not even look for accommodations. Our flight was at 7am and at 1am, I was just starting to look for a cheap hotel or hostel to stay in. I browsed several websites and blogs and texted all the contact numbers I could find. Unfortunately for me, only a few replied and those who did said that they were fully booked.

It didn’t help that we were a group of 7 people. One hotel had a vacant room but could only accommodate up to 3 people.

We were already at the airport at around 5:30 am when I received a call from Cliffside Cottages, telling me that they had rooms for all 7 of us. Thank Heavens! We asked about the rate and we were surprised that it was really cheap — P500 per room per night. Each room could accommodate up to 2 people. That’s only P250 per person. We immediately had 3 rooms reserved and gave our word that we would stay for one night. (By the way, the rate is P600 per room per night if booked for only one night, which was completely fine with us.)

We decided that since we would have ample time to kill on our first night in El Nido, we’d look for other hotels in the area as soon as we got there. In the mean time, we would be spending our first night at Cliffside Cottages.

We would end up staying at the El Nido Waterfront Hotel and the Garnet Hotel on our second and third nights.

Cliffside Cottages (Left) and Garnet Hotel (Right)

The takeaway here is: Book in advance. We were lucky that we were still able to find vacant rooms for all seven of us. We have asked almost all beachfront hotels at Bacuit Bay and they were all fully-booked considering that it wasn’t peak season when we were there.

What to Consider Before Your Trip to El Nido

A number of things have to be considered when preparing an El Nido itinerary.

1. First, what is your gateway to El Nido? While some choose to fly directly to El Nido, others are thrown off by the expensive direct flight tickets. Spending much on airfare was not an option for me so I was left with two options: via Coron or via Puerto Princesa. I chose the latter.
2. Second thing to consider was the time of flight to Puerto Princesa. Ours was scheduled at 7:30am. Why is it important? Because it takes approximately 6 hours to get to El Nido from Puerto Princesa. That’s an entire morning and afternoon, if you ask me. We landed at 8:40am at Puerto Princesa airport, stopped at Fortwally Terminal/Office to book a shuttle trip to El Nido, and had a quick brunch in the city. We finished brunch minutes before 11am, just in time for the shuttle (van) to pick us up. If you plan on doing the same and everything goes right, then expect to be in El Nido by 5pm. (Yep, that’s almost an entire day lost on the road but you’ll find a way to enjoy the journey.) The guy from Fortwally Shuttle Services who entertained us said that their last trip to El Nido was at 1pm so make sure that the flight you take is scheduled to arrive by that time.
3. Third, the return flight. If your return flight is via Puerto Princesa, too, then make sure that you arrange the timing perfectly. Always remember that the travel time between El Nido and Puerto Princesa is five to six hours.

At least that we planned when we booked our flights. For everything else since then, we just went with the flow.

The El Nido Packaged Day Tours

We didn’t book any packaged tour before the trip. Hours before the trip, we just browsed through several websites and learned that there are usually four major boat tours that await tourists who visit El Nido. There are many establishments in the town proper and along Bacuit Bay that offer such tours and there isn’t much difference between their rates because the local government standardizes them (Yay!). You can also haggle and some of them can even pull the price lower.

• Tour A – Small Lagoon and Big Lagoon on Miniloc Island, Simizu Island, Entulala Island, Payong Payong Beach, and 7 Commando Beach, P700/person
• Tour B – Snake Island, Cudugnon Cave, Pinagbuyutan Island, Cathedral Cave, P800/person
• Tour C – Matinloc Shrine, Matinloc Island, Secret Beach, Hidden Beach, Tapuitan Island, Helicopter Island, P900/person
• Tour D – Nat Nat Beach, Pasandigan Cove, Paradise Beach, Ubugon Cave, Bukal Island, Cadlao Lagoon, P700/person

Note that a minimum of 4 people per tour is required. Lunch is also included but you might want to clear with the tour operator if water is included. Otherwise, bring water, lots of it! Lunch usually includes grilled fish, grilled pork/chicken, rice, vegetables, and fruits.

Snorkels, masks and aqua shoes are not included.

Helicopter Island, El Nido, Palawan

Again, you can still haggle and bring the cost down especially if you’re a big group. Our group of 7 was already considered a big group and we were able to get Tour A for only 550/person and Tour C for only P650! What is awesome?

Preparing an El Nido Itinerary (4D/3N)

So now, let me present to you our initial 4-day, 3-night El Nido itinerary:

Day 1: PUERTO PRINCESA TO EL NIDO
05:30 am – Check-in NAIA Terminal 3
07:30 am – ETD NAIA Terminal 3 – Manila (via Airphil Express)
08:40 am – ETA Puerto Princesa Airport
09:00 am – Fortwally Shuttle Services Office/Terminal Booking
09:30 am – Breakfast somewhere in Puerto Princesa
011:00 pm – ETD: Pick up by Fortwally Shuttle/Van
01:00 pm – Stopover at an Eatery in Roxas, Palawan
05:00 pm – ETA El Nido Terminal
05:10 pm – Check-in: Cliffside Cottages
06:00 pm – Walk along Bacuit Bay, Dinner

Day 2: TOUR A
06:00 am – Wake up call
07:00 am – Breakfast
09:00 am – TOUR A
05:00 pm – Change clothes, rest
06:00 pm – Dinner
08:00 pm – Drink at a bar (Yep, I said it)

Day 3: TOUR C
06:00 am – Wake up call
07:00 am – Breakfast
09:00 am – TOUR C
05:00 pm – Change clothes, rest
06:00 pm – Dinner
08:00 pm – Drink at a bar (Yep, I said it again)

Day 3: DEPARTURE
03:00 am – Wake up call
04:30 am – ETD Fortwally Shuttle to pick us up at the hotel
11:00 am – ETA Balinsasayaw Restaurant, Lunch
12:30 pm – Check in at Puerto Princesa Airport
02:00 pm – ETD Puerto Princesa Airport
03:10 am – ETA NAIA Terminal 3 – Manila

As you may have noticed, although it’s a 4-day/3-night itinerary, we would only be spending two whole days in El Nido. Two days were to be spent on the road. Bummer, yes, but that’s what makes El Nido all the more special. It’s playing hard-to-get. But it’s the kind of destination you’d want to marry.

Note that this is just the initial itinerary. What actually happened on this trip is a different story. Stay tuned for my next posts as I narrate what happened on this trip every step of the way.

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“What is?” I walked towards her.

“Look.” Her finger led my eyes to two words in particular. Last seen.

Usually, a gravestone has two lines written below the name of the departed — the date the person was born and the date the person passed away. But instead of the typical Died, there was Last Seen taking its place. A few moments later, I found myself frozen next to her,  both of us not moving as we stared at the gravestone while our brains bled a gazillion thoughts.

Last seen.

“That’s weird.”

“She didn’t die?” she wondered.

“I think she went missing and they didn’t find her?” I theorized.

If she really went missing and found her dead, wouldn’t it be easy to determine the approximate date of death? If she went missing and was never found, how come there’s a grave? Does that mean the family gave up their search, assumed she was already dead, and made a gravestone? After all, she was born in 1922 and was last seen in 2000. So there’s no body underneath this gravestone? Or maybe we were overanalyzing things? Maybe it was one of the traditions of the town? But this was the only stone with Last Seen that we found. Everything else had Died marked on it.

Since I learned about the word, my idea of a “cemetery” had always been very simple — a place where dead bodies are buried. But right in front of me was a big block of stone that smashed that definition. Here lies not the body of a person but a memory, buried in dirt, topped with a white stone.

A memory.

Sagada’s town cemetery, part of the Mission Compound, is a relaxing and beautiful place. It was very unconventional for me. The heap of charcoal in front of each gravestone gave a new meaning to the word “chilly”. The cemetery lies on top of a hill, which is unusual. Our Guide explained that the wind becomes a buzzkill most of the time leaving candles with no use. Instead, they set up mini-bonfires before the grave using a kind of wood that burns easily. Fascinating.

Bonfires, not candles.

Mission Compound Cemetery on top of a hill

It was December when we were there and our Guide described how the locals celebrate All Saints’ Day. The hill is well lit by gentle flames. Pillars of smoke kiss the fog looming overhead. Crowds gather in a place that is usually very quiet in ordinary days. Like all the other cemeteries in the country, this one, too, comes to life on All Saints’ Day.

Veterans' Tomb.

It was one of those moments when we were just supposed to enjoy the place but there I was overthinking, “overreflecting.” What may look like ordinary tombstones to many became mirrors for both my friend Tonet and I. On the far side of the cemetery was the Veterans’ Tomb, where the bodies of those who served at World War II were buried. It made me wonder whether or not I had done anything in my life that was as significant. I could only imagine what they went through during the war. I could only imagine.

In one corner was another gravestone that caught our attention.

Born 1963, Died 1974

“When I was 12,” Tonet shared, “I had a crush on our church’s sacristan, and I was dreaming to be a sportscaster someday. This girl died when she was 12.”

The Veterans’ Tomb and this little girl’s grave made everything we complain about or worry about or whine so much about so, so trivial. Many times, when we dwell on life’s negativities, we tend to forget that we are still lucky for a having a relatively good life, or simply for being alive.

To most of us, the cemetery is a dead place. Death roams here. Death rules this space. But our brief visit to the beautiful Mission Compound Cemetery made us realize one thing — the opposite of life isn’t death. The opposite of life is the inability to leave a mark, to touch another life. The cemetery is home to not just dead bodies six feet under, but to memories. It is not death that makes people flock to graveyards. It is not death that makes us light candles — or bonfires — and keep their flames burning. It is these memories that make us do all that. And for as long as there are memories worth reliving and people reliving them, life — and its endless cycle of gaining, losing, searching, and moving on — never ceases. Yes, even in places where death lives.

Flames and Mirrors at the Mission Compound Cemetery – Sagada is my very first entry to Pinoy Travel Bloggers’ Blog Carnival. This October’s Blog Carnival has the theme ‘Dark Tourism: Philippines in Focus’ and is hosted by Gael Hilotin of The Pinay Solo Backpacker.

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“No way. Not gonna happen,” I resisted.

An hour later, I found myself in a cave, surrounded by coffins. The fear of coffins was overshadowed by the fear of not getting to experience the trip in full so I walked down to the cave, along a steep and rugged trail, with my friends to face the most coffins at a single place I had ever seen.

And it wasn’t scary.

Coffins stacked one after another, creating an entire wall of sealed proof of how much our ancestors valued the afterlife, did not trigger fear but curiosity. The place offers a quick but rich glimpse of the past — traditions, culture, life.

Lumiang Burial Cave Coffins

The Lumiang Burial Cave is probably the most visited burial site in Sagada primarily because it is usually bundled with the Sumaguing Cave Tour. Sumaguing Cave is arguably the town’s most popular tourist attraction and those who avail of the tour are given a free side trip to the Lumiang Cave. It is also the start point for the Cave Connection, the more challenging of the two spelunking options you may choose from.

The cave is hidden several meters away from the road and one needs to go down a steep — and if you’re unlucky and it’s raining —  slippery trail. There are parts that are very difficult to traverse but nowhere near dangerous. You just need to keep your balance by using your arms as your third and fourth legs. Some parts are rocky that you might want to watch your step, while some were littered with soft sticks that make music when stepped on.

Although a challenge, especially for asthmatic tourists like me, the trail offers a good view of the limestone cliffs along the way. There’s even a spot for picture-taking!

My friends at a photo stop. Haha

When we reached the site, we were greeted by a number of small groups of tourists, all posing against the piles of coffins. While some settled for just looking at the coffins from afar, others went deeper into the area to get a closer look at the priceless content of the cave. On one end were those about to start their Cave Connection spelunking adventure.

Our Guide leading the way into the mouth of Lumiang Cave

Tourists about to start their Cave Connection Spelunking Adventure!

The Lumiang Burial Cave

A good fifteen minutes had passed and everyone in our group agreed it was time to come back up to the road. Minutes before, we were all talking about how difficult it was to go down to the cave. Apparently, the going down was relatively easy if you ask me. It was the coming back up that left me gasping for and vomiting air.

I wouldn’t say my fear of coffins had been completely removed by this experience. However, this close encounter with the vessels of the departed brought me closer to the realization that death and all things that we associate with it are all reflections of the culture we take part in.

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That was my groundbreaking answer when my friends Dane and Ces asked me where we would be staying in Sagada. We were already on the way there.

“Are you serious?”

Unfortunately, I was. And it was a big problem. How could a group of yuppies travel to Sagada without any hostel reservation? The guest houses I called days before were all fully-booked. I was hoping to push my luck again just like the year before when our reservations did not push through but we ended up staying at another guest house.

When I  received a text message from fellow blogger Benj of VisitSagada.com, I knew it was good news. Apparently, he found a place for us. He just warned us that it was far from the main road. We were relieved. We were perfectly fine with anything really. We couldn’t be choosers that time.

After a long trip to Sagada and a satisfying meal at Salt and Pepper, our group decided to head over to Ligaya’s Guest House and Cottages or simply Ligaya.

Cottages!

Ligaya's House and Cottages, Sagada

Benj was right. It was really far from the town’s main road. Upon arrival, we were greeted by Ate Ligaya herself. She led us to a neighbor’s house, which was also open to guests. That was where we would be staying because her house was fully booked, too. But we weren’t complaining, this house was big and we would have the room to ourselves. The living room of the house is spacious and has a fireplace on one end! Call us shallow and childish but the first thing we did was camwhored by the fireplace. Haha.

Obvious ba na natuwa kami masyado sa fireplace. Here are my friends camwhoring again!

The room they gave us had two double-deck beds. The beds were wide and very comfortable. It was also between two restrooms, which meant that our morning rituals won’t be a problem. The bathrooms were also spacious but they didn’t have hot water. However, you may choose to heat water at the kitchen. It was fine with us.

Our hosts were very friendly and helpful. They assisted us in everything that we needed. We were treated as special guests  and they were really mindful of our needs. When we were there, we noticed that they kept making lemon and orange pies. At first we thought it was for their family but we eventually learned they were selling them. One night they gave each of us a slice of lemon pie and it was really, really good. We bought several boxes from them on our last day.

We didn’t have much to complain about the guest house we stayed in. If anything, we were deeply thankful of them for accommodating us. They were life savers. There were a couple of things that needed improvement, yes, but it was an awesome, relaxing experience overall.

Perhaps the only big thing that works against it was the location. It was really, really far from the main road. On our last night, after the bonfire, the SAGGAS jeep service dropped us off at the corner of the main road and the road leading to our guest house. It was past 12 midnight and we had no choice but to walk. We pretended to be courageous travelers and braved our way to the guest house but our act didn’t last long. Just several meters into it, we decided to head back to the main road. It was so dark and we were all about to pee our pants out of fear. Fortunately, a group of locals passed by and they offered to walk us to the guest house.

The upside was that the location was really, really nice. It had this quaint, rustic atmosphere, given that it was somewhat isolated. And the service made up for the distance from the town proper.

Ligaya’s House and Cottages
Kapinitan, Sagada
09183438415 / 09207849633
Rate: P250 per night per person

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Although the original plan was to witness the sunrise from the Kiltepan Viewpoint on our last morning in Sagada, we still hoped we could catch the dawn as soon as we arrived. We tried to dodge the idea of waking up really early on our last day. Unfortunately, the sun was already up when we reached the quaint town of Sagada. But we were not complaining; we were too busy getting awed by the place.

Our first stop was the Salt and Pepper Diner. After almost 10 hours on the road, we were ALL starved and were ready to eat the first food that would come our way. Good news, Salt and Pepper Diner offers complimentary fruits to their customers. Yay!

My friends Tonet and Dane loving the coffee and the weather.

Dane, Celine and Ces enjoying the complimentary fruits!

Salt and Pepper Diner isn’t very easy to spot. There’s just a small signage in front of the diner. The place is located above the Ug-ugo Souvenir Store, beside the office of Sagada Genuine Guides Association (SAGGAS). You will have to climb a short flight of stairs to get there.

On my previous trip to Sagada, I noticed that the place was always packed in the morning. Fortunately, there was still one vacant table when we arrived. And there was a basket of bananas on it. Last time I was here, it was a basket of dalandan.

Although Salt and Pepper offers a variety of dishes, they usually just serve longganisa and tapa when there are too many customers. Don’t worry because both dishes taste good especially when paired with coffee or chocolate.

Ganayo's Favorite: Homemade longganisa with fried egg and garlic red rice

Bisled's Choice: Beef Tapa, Fried egg and garlic race! TAPSILOG Sagada-style!

When our meals were served, we were hypnotized by the smell. I’m not sure whether we were just hungry or the smell of the beef was just really strong and appetizing. Mind you, I’m not even a beef fan. The meat was not dry and each bit was tender. The best thing about it was that it didn’t have the usual “beef” aftertaste.

Each order of longsilog comes with two rolls of homemade skinless longganisa. It was sweeter than many other longganisas I had tasted before and I liked it. It was perfectly cooked. The outer part was a little crispy while the core was juicy and tender but well-cooked.

The red rice was a breath of fresh air for me. It was my first time to see this type of rice. I was reluctant at first because I was expecting regular rice. I thought it would taste different.  Fortunately, it tasted like your ordinary garlic rice. Awesomely normal. If it had another taste, then I wouldn’t have liked it as I usually like my rice to taste exactly like the rice I am used to.

Overall, it was a great experience. The ambiance of the place was very homey. We felt like visitors at a home of a great cook, and we were treated exactly like that. Although we would have loved to try their other dishes, we understood that the diner’s manpower could only produce two dishes at the time. But they were two great-tasting dishes. The complimentary fruits were greatly appreciated. So was the service. The next day, we had breakfast at Salt and Pepper again, which goes without saying just how much we enjoyed the place.

For the complete menu, visit Salt and Pepper’s official website here.

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More than five years ago, just before our college graduation, my friend Tonet invited me to go to Sagada. Tonet and I had always wanted to visit Sagada for a number of reasons. “I don’t think that’s possible given that we’re too busy working on our theses. Perhaps after graduation?” I suggested.

After graduating, while we were walking in Makati, looking for a job, she brought it up again. “I think we should find a job first. And then let’s plan a Sagada getaway,” I dodged. She agreed.

When we finally landed a job, the desire to travel to Sagada was still there. But neither tried to bring it up because we knew there was no way we could squeeze a 3-day trip into our totally toxic schedules. It wasn’t until our company-sponsored outing in 2009 when I finally set foot on Sagada.

When Tonet found out that I had been there already, she made me promise that I should take her with me the next time. Fortunately, Sagada is one of those places anyone would love returning to. A year later, I decided to go back to Sagada. The perfect time glimmered in between Christmas and New Year. I gave Tonet a call.

“You asked me to call you the moment I decided to go to Sagada. The moment has come. You still up for it?”

Tonet’s response was a loud and happy “Of course.”

After 5 years of wanting, it finally happened in December of 2010.

How to Get to Sagada

When our friends found out about this trip to Sagada, they decided to join. After all, because the trip was scheduled on December 27-29, they already had filed a leave of absence from office. Before we knew it, we became a group of 10, composed of college friends and some colleagues.

There are three routes that you can take to get to Sagada from Manila via public transportation: via Baguio City, Bontoc or Banaue. For more information on these routes, please click the links below. They will lead you to a friend’s blog, Visit Sagada, the most useful guide on traveling to and around Sagada that you will find online.

• Via Baguio City 
• Via Banaue
• Via Bontoc

You may also hire a van for 3D/2N. There are many vans for rent for Sagada trips out there and the most common rate we encountered when we asked around was P17,000 for the van rental inclusive of driver’s fee, toll fees, gas and driver’s accommodations. The van and the driver will be with you for the entire trip. This is a good option if you’re a group of 10 or more.

Preparing a 3D/2N Sagada Itinerary

When we were planning our itinerary, we were sure of 3 things:

1. We wanted to join the Bonfire on December 28. It’s an annual event hosted by the Sagada Genuine Guides Association (SaGGAs). Tourists get to party Sagada-style at the Kiltepan Viewpoint (top of a hill) and enjoy good food and music. It was non-negotiable for us. We needed to be a part of it.
2. We wanted to experience two of Sagada’s most popular tourist spots — the Sumaguing Cave and the Bomod-Ok Falls — on separate days because we could already foresee how exhausting it would be.
3. We wanted to pick oranges at the Rock Inn and Cafe!

With these in consideration, here are our initial itinerary:

Day 0: DEPARTURE
07:00 pm – Meet up (Manila)

Day 1: ARRIVAL, LUMIANG BURIAL CAVE, SUMAGUING CAVE
07:00 am – Arrival in Sagada
07:20 am – Breakfast at Salt and Pepper
08:30 am – Check in at Ligaya’s Guest House
09:30 am – Lumiang Burial Cave
10:15 am – Sumaguing Cave
01:30 pm – Lunch
03:00 pm – Echo Valley, Sagada Weaving, Mission Compound
06:00 pm – Dinner
07:00 pm – Rest

Day 2: BOMOD-OK FALLS, ROCK INN, BONFIRE
06:00 am – Wake up call
07:00 am – Bomod-Ok Falls
12:00 pm – Rock Inn and Cafe, Orange picking
03:00 pm – Change clothes, rest
05:00 pm – Prepare for Bonfire
12:00 am – Return to Hostel

Day 3: DEPARTURE, BANAUE SIDETRIP
04:30 am – Wake up call
05: 10 am – Watch sunrise at Kiltepan Viewpoint
06:30 am – ETD Sagada, Sidetrip to Banaue
08:00 pm – ETA Manila

When my other college friends and colleagues heard about this trip, they decided to join. Before we knew it, we became a group of 10 yuppies. But on Christmas Day, two days before the trip, they backed out one by one until only 6 people were left. We thought about canceling the whole thing. But in the end, we pushed through with the trip. And it was a great, great decision.

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