Following on from the previous foodie edition last season, this instalment of Armchair Travel is heading to the bar and ordering a cocktail, inspired by books about drinking cultures around the world and by travellers discovering the world through the bottom of a glass. So read on for a selection of drink-themed travel books and some stories inspired by alcohol-fuelled adventures. There are also a couple of non-alcoholic options on the menu too.

Here are 10 of my favourite books inspired by drink and travel.

Raw Spirit: In Search of the Perfect Dram – Iain Banks

The premise of the book is simple, Banks, an appreciator of single malts and classic cars, tours the back roads of Scotland visiting distilleries, sampling Scotch, and sharing stories over a quality dram with friends. The knowledge of his subjects, from Scottish history and urban climbing to global geopolitics and the technical side of the whisky-making process is worn lightly, and anecdotes are shared with genuine enthusiasm and excellent writing, making him seem a more convivial Bryson. This is the only non-fiction work by one of my favourite authors and for fans of Banks, as close to an autobiography as we’ll get. Buy it here.

The Devil’s Cup: A History of the World According to Coffee – Stewart Lee Allen

Backpacker Allen traces the journey of coffee, from its origins in the mountains of Ethiopia over the Red Sea to Yemen, where coffee was first grown commercially, then through the threads of trade across the Ottoman Empire, to Turkey, where coffee house culture originates. The Ottomans again bring the drink to Europe, to the coffee houses of 1600s Vienna, along with a more enlightened and intellectual outlook born over coffee house debates, and to Italy, where a group of monks give rise to the drink we know today as cappuccino. Allen ships out to Brazil, working his passage, then picks up the journey from plantations to the roadside diners in the U.S.A. Get it here.

Cooking with Fernet Branca – James Hamilton-Paterson

A snobbish English author takes a secluded hilltop villa in Tuscany to work in solitude on his latest project, as the ghostwriter of celebrity autobiographies, while indulging in culinary experiments with local produce. The peace is shattered when another resident moves in, a brash film score composer from an ex-Soviet state, who may or may not have connections to organised crime. What follows is a classic odd-couple tale filled with misunderstandings and hilarious misadventures, and horrendously assembled meals designed to drive each other away, always washed down with copious volumes of the bitter herb liqueur of the title. Buy it here.

McCarthy’s Bar: A Journey of Discovery in Ireland – Pete McCarthy

Travel broadcaster and writer McCarthy explores the west coast of Ireland from Cork in the south to Donegal in the north, with no specific destination in mind, but at all times obeying the rule “never pass a bar that has your name on it”. In McCarthy’s bars up and down the country, he finds interesting and eccentric characters, and through sharing their often hilarious stories, he gains insights into the history of Ireland from the Great Hunger to the War of Independence and the impending Celtic Tiger, and how that has shaped the national psyche. Find it here.

French Lessons: Adventures with Knife, Fork, and Corkscrew – Peter Mayle

Though Mayle will be forever associated with Provence though his series of heartwarming books about the life of an English ex-pat in a small rural village, this book ventures further afield to explore the regional food and drink fairs and festivals of France. He’d drawn by things which seem as alien to the British palate as possible; truffles, frog’s legs, snails, but mainly the wine. He indulges in delicious meals with good company, samples various vintages, and participates in the famous Marathon du Médoc (as a spectator), where runners break for wine rather than water. An easy, enjoyable read. Find it here.

Oranges – John McPhee

Inspired by a glass of juice at breakfast in the 1960s, McPhee planned to write a magazine article on the orange industry at what was a transformational time, as increasingly juice concentrates were produced and the future of the harvest looked towards mechanisation. The result was this distinctive book, a classic of non-fiction reportage. McPhee traces the journey of the fruit, from its origins in South East Asia, the royal connections which brought it to the shores of Andalucia, and across the Atlantic to the citrus groves of Florida. Along the way, he interviews people involved in the sector from orange pickers and individual growers, to citrus agro-scientists, factory owners and corporate heads. Get it here.

Wine and War: The French, The Nazis, and the Battle for France’s Greatest Treasure – Don Kladstrup and Petie Kladstrup

While many of us will be familiar with the WWII history surrounding the Allied invasion of Normandy, less well known is the parallel invasion in the south of France, spearheaded by the Free French forces, landing around Nice and fighting through the Rhône valley. Battles in the invasion were directed toward vineyards of inferior quality, preserving the superior crop with an eye to economic recovery, and reclaiming the character of the beleaguered nation. This history book is an easy read with an unfamiliar take on a well-covered topic, looking at the role of wine, and winemakers, often key members of the French Resistance, on the Nazi occupation of France. Get it here.

Whisky Galore – Compton Mackenzie

A gentle comic tale set in the Western Isles of Scotland at the height of WWII, which gave rise to the classic Ealing comedy. Rationing has affected the fictional islands of Great and Little Todday, long-term rivals on either side of the religious schism that crosses the Hebrides, brought to a head when the local whisky supply runs dry. The SS Cabinet Minister, laden with whisky, grounds on the reefs surrounding the islands, and the locals take advantage of the situation before the arrival of Customs authorities from the mainland.

This novel is based on real events. In 1941, the cargo ship SS Politician ran aground on the island of Eriskay with a cargo of thousands of cases of whisky, destined for the American market. Locals who “liberated” the salvaged goods were later charged with theft, though most were released with a not proven verdict. Get it here.

Bacardi and the Long Fight for Cuba: The Biography of a Cause – Tom Gjelten

Journalist Gjelten gives a comprehensive account of the history of Cuba in the lead-up to the revolution led by Fidel Castro, viewed through the lens of the Bacardi family. Facundo Bacardi, an immigrant from Spain arriving in Cuba in 1830, revolutionised the production of rum, turning a rough cane spirit into a smooth, blended spirit. His son, Facundo Jr., refined the process further, developing a premium product with high demand. His son, Emilio, used the company operations, and finances, as a front to support efforts for Cuban independence from Spain, initiating a long political affiliation for the family and the company. Find it here.

Withnail and I: The Original Screenplay – Bruce Robinson

The original screenplay of one of my favourite films. A dark comedy with sharp, brilliant dialogue (which, if you’ve seen the film, no doubt you can quote verbatim). Withnail and Marwood (the “I” of the title) are out-of-work actors, who leave their squalid flat in Camden Town for a cottage in the Lake District for a retreat designed to revitalise their careers. That does not happen, but the following drunken misadventures are alternately hilarious, bleak and bittersweet. Filmed in 1987, the movie is a cult classic and stands up to the test of time. It’s absolutely worth checking out too. Buy it here.

Do you have any drink-inspired travel books to recommend to me? Leave a comment below.

If you’ve really enjoyed my Armchair Travel recommendations, you can buy me a virtual coffee here.

Did this post capture your imagination? Why not pin it for later?

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through my link, I will make a small commission* at no additional cost to you. These help me to continue to run this site, providing tips and advice, and sharing stories from my adventures. Thank you for supporting me.

*Maybe enough for a coffee, or perhaps a dark and stormy. Not enough for a yacht.

Are you feeling hungry? This edition of Armchair Travel is leaving the sofa and heading through to the kitchen*, inspired by books by cooks and other hungry travellers discovering and sharing food cultures from around the globe. So read on for a mouth-watering selection of food-themed travel books and cookbooks filled with stories.

*then returning to the sofa after rifling through the fridge for snacks.

Here are 10 of my favourite books inspired by food and travel.

A Cooks Tour: Global Adventures in Extreme Cuisines – Anthony Bourdain

I read this book with envy while stationed in Antarctica, where my diet regularly featured Fray Bentos pies in tins and Smash powdered mashed potato. Bourdain poses the question, “What is the perfect meal?”, and sets out to explore what that means to people in different cultures around the globe. Travelling to places like Vietnam and Cambodia, Portugal and Morocco, his home in New York City, and the region of Western France where his father came from, Bourdain aims to eat like, and with, locals, searching out authentic dishes and local specialities. He doesn’t shy away from offerings which sound outlandish to the viewers of his Food Network show; lamb testicles in Morocco, Japanese nattō, Scottish haggis, the still-beating heart of a cobra in Vietnam, and relates the experiences in vivid, outrageous, and often hilarious anecdotes.

This book sets the groundwork for his fantastic TV shows The Layover and No Reservations, the latter being how I first discovered Bourdain. The way he connects with the people he meets on his travels through food, gaining insights into their culture and everyday lives, has always been inspirational. His way of communicating, self-deprecating, searingly honest, at times arrogant and self-righteous, but tempered by humility, sensitivity, and a great deal of introspection, are a masterclass on writing about travel, culture, and food. Find it here.

Black Sea: Dispatches and Recipes through Darkness and Light – Caroline Eden

Eden’s book is a fascinating blend of elements; a cookbook of recipes from an overlooked part of the world, a vivid travelogue of her journey around the Black Sea, and a richly illustrated exploration of the art, architecture, history, and culture of the region. Recent events in Ukraine add a poignancy to many of the images, and a stark reminder that all travel writing is just a snapshot of a place captured at a specific moment in time.

She begins her travels in Odesa (Odessa), and moves through the historic region of Bessarabia to Romania and Bulgaria, on to Istanbul, the city where Europe and Asia come together, and through the Black Sea region of Turkey, via the Greek-influenced city of Trabzon, to the Georgian border, meeting people across a café table or market stall. In each stop she explores the interconnecting cultures of a region long in flux, tracing legacies of various ethnic groups, migrants and exiles, using food as the anchor to place the stories of the region. Buy it here.

Salt: A World History – Mark Kurlansky

Micro-histories like this, where a single, everyday item or idea becomes the lens through which we view vast scenes and epic stories from the past are one of my favourite genres, and this is one of the best and most surprising. Salt, the only rock we consume, has shaped the ebb and flow of civilisations through almost the entirety of human history. So valuable it served as currency, influenced the establishment of trade routes and cities, financed conflicts and secured empires through taxation, and inspired revolutions and independence.

Kurlansky roams across the globe and through thousands of years of documented history following the path of salt, as an integral part of cooking and food preparation, as a lucrative product for trade, and as a key political commodity and catalyst for action. Buy it here.

Taste: My Life Through Food – Stanley Tucci

The sharp wit and wry humour of American actor Tucci was a bright light in lockdown as he shared a recipe for a perfect negroni cocktail on social media, and this memoir reflection on the role of food and eating in his life is filled with delicious anecdotes recounted with the same gentle charm, even flirtatiousness. Tucci’s vivid, conversational writing ranges from his childhood as a second-generation immigrant in a southern Italian community in New York State, falling in love on dinner dates, and compiling a cookbook with his wife to pass on their food heritage to their children, to his recent brush with oral cancer, acknowledging the absurdity of the illness given his passion for food. His acting career is not the focus of the book, though film roles are often the route to memorable meals, not least through his involvement in the food-centred films Big Night and Julie & Julia, and dining with big names like Marcello Mastroianni and Meryl Streep. Recipes are peppered throughout the book. Get it here.

My Life in France – Julia Child

Deployed to post-war France with her husband Paul to undertake work for the U.S. government, Child has barely a word of French and didn’t know the first thing about cooking. But she falls in love with French food culture, eating in bistros, shopping in local produce markets, and attending classes at Le Cordon Bleu, and her life is transformed. Child revels in the sense of taste, detailing memories of menus she ate or cooked for others from her first French meals to her culinary experiments to translate flavours for an American palate.

The book is beautifully written, constructed by Child’s nephew Alex Prud’homme from their many conversations and old letters which distil the essence of her love of French food, and illustrated with photographs taken by Paul, evocative of post-war France. The other highlight of the book is the relationship between Julia and Paul, the genuine love and mutual respect between the pair, and support and respect from Paul as she overcame the goofiness and imposter syndrome that shaped her younger years to forge a successful career as a renowned expert in French cuisine. Read this book with great care, as it may inspire you to order Child’s seminal Mastering the Art of French Cooking and recreate some of the 500+ recipes gathered in that magnificent tome. Get it here.

Read more | 10 Books about Drinking-inspired Travel

Sharks Fin and Sichuan Pepper: A Sweet-Sour Memoir of Eating in China – Fuchsia Dunlop

Dunlop’s early experiences in Oxford, UK, where her mother taught English as a foreign language to students from across the globe who often cooked meals from their cultures to share, set her up for a future of gastronomic adventures, though as she notes in the book, nothing quite prepared her for her first visits to China and Hong Kong as a student. Following the same vein as Julia Child, she immerses herself in the cuisine of Sichuan over several years, eating with friends, in restaurants and at street stalls, shopping in produce markets, cooking meals, and becoming the first Westerner to enrol in the Sichuan Institute of Higher Cuisine.

The book is filled with knowledgeable detail of cooking and eating across China, highlighting the vast differences which exist from one region to another in terms of available ingredients, preparation techniques, and finishing presentation, and are often overlooked in our understanding of Chinese cuisine. Outwith Sichuan, she meets and eats with different families, learning about the food heritage of their region and cultures. Get it here.

Learning another cuisine is like learning a language. In the beginning, you know nothing about its most basic rules of grammar. You experience it as a flood of words, or dishes, without system or structure.

Fuchsia Dunlop, Shark’s Fin and Sichuan Pepper

Following Fish: Travels around the Indian Coast – Samanth Subramanian

This collection of travel essays uses fish as a central theme to explore the coastal regions of India from West Bengal in the east, to Tamil Nadu and Kerala in the South, and Gujarat in the west. Journalist Subramanian investigates communities and cultures shaped by fish and fishing, delving into histories and traditions, sharing stories from research and conversations on his route.

Particular highlights are the chapters where he examines culinary aspects of fish, the processing and consuming of hilsa from a roadside shack in Kolkata, searching the toddy shops of southern Kerela for the perfect fiery preparation of karimeen, and the diversity of cultural cuisines available for workers in the markets of Mumbai. Get it here.

Nathaniel’s Nutmeg; or, The True and Incredible Adventures of the Spice Trader Who Changed the Course of History – Giles Milton

The tiny island of Run in the Indonesian archipelago doesn’t seem like the place where world history was shaped, but at the beginning of the seventeenth century it was at the centre of a bloody and prolonged conflict by the colonial powers of England, Portugal, and the Netherlands which determined their spheres of influence around the globe. The reason was spice, and control of spice was control of the universe. Pepper, cinnamon, mace, and nutmeg were worth a fortune in Europe, and Run’s harvest of nutmeg made it the most lucrative of the Spice Islands.

Milton covers the sweeping scale of trade and raids, conflict and colonisation, and the ripples of consequence that spread out across the globe from the East Indies to the Americas, through a focus on the misadventures of British spice prospectors in the Banda Islands, including the eponymous Nathaniel Courthorpe. He provides searing details of ocean voyages wracked with scurvy, and the vicious conflict with indigenous peoples that lie in the history of our common store cupboard ingredients. Buy it here.

The Spice Necklace: My Adventures in Caribbean Cooking, Eating, and Island Life – Anne Vanderhoof

Continuing the spice theme, Vanderhoof and her husband Steve tour the islands of the Caribbean on their sailboat, though sailing takes a secondary role to cooking and eating in this book. They meet fishermen and farmers, hunters and harvesters professional chefs and home cooks, and share their love of food as they voyage from island to island, from Trinidad and Tobago, Grenada, St. Lucia, to the Dominican Republic and Haiti.

Scattered throughout the book are seventy or so recipes for traditional Caribbean dishes shared by the people Vanderhoof meets and others inspired by the availability of fresh produce and island ingredients, many developed in the small galley onboard the boat. She writes with lightness and conviviality which make this book just as suitable for a holiday beach read as a companion in the kitchen.

We Fed an Island: The True Story of Rebuilding Puerto Rico, One Meal at a Time – José Andrés

Food writing can at times feel disconnected from reality, playing with the ideas of what is luxurious and exotic, but food is a fundamental human need, and never more than in the midst of a humanitarian crisis. Chef Andrés is the founder of World Central Kitchen (WSK), a non-profit NGO dedicated to preparing and distributing food in the immediate wake of natural disasters by building networks of local chefs and volunteer cooks, and sourcing local supplies. This book details the relief efforts coordinated by Andrés and WSK in Puerto Rico in the aftermath of Hurricane Maria in 2017, working closely with affected communities. He also gives an incisive critique of government bodies and disaster relief organisations working in Puerto Rico, his frustrations of working inside the established response structure, and potential solutions for dealing with future crises. Find it here.

What are your favourite cookbooks from around the world and food-inspired travel books? Leave your recommendations for me in the comments below.

If you’ve really enjoyed my Armchair Travel recommendations, you can buy me a virtual coffee here.

Did this post capture your imagination? Why not pin it for later?

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through my link, I will make a small commission* at no additional cost to you. These help me continue running this site, providing tips and advice, and sharing stories from my adventures. Thank you for supporting me.

*Maybe enough for a coffee, possibly a slice of cake too. Not enough for a yacht.

This edition of Armchair Travel takes to the water in a selection of small craft, in canoes, kayaks and skiffs to explore the world from water level. These accounts of expeditions in small boats are tales of individual adventure on the water, but also embrace the pace of paddle-powered slow travel allowing the history and maritime culture of the regions travelled to unfold for the voyagers.

So whether you’re looking to find motivation to try a new activity, or you’re more than comfortable exploring the world from the waterline, read on for inspiration for making a paddling adventure of your own, or enjoy the vicarious undertakings of seasoned paddlers.

10 of the best books about paddling adventures

Argonauts of the Scottish Isles: Sea-Kayaking Adventures – Robin Lloyd-Jones

A recent re-issue of the Scottish sea kayaking classic Argonauts of the Western Isles, first published in 1974, with five additional chapters featuring more recent paddling tours, Lloyd-Jones shares memorable tales from expeditions solo and with friends through the Inner and Outer Hebrides, Orkney, and Shetland. Woven through the stories of paddling open water in the swell of the Atlantic Ocean, running tidal streams like the awesome Corryvreckan whirlpool, and bivouacking under the stars are thoughts on kayak exploration, local history and wildlife encounters. Find it here.

Kings of the Yukon: One Summer Paddling Across the Far North – Adam Weymouth

The 3,190km (1,980 mile) long Yukon River runs through the wilderness of Canada’s Yukon Territory and Alaska, before reaching the Bering Sea at the Yukon–Kuskokwim Delta on the west coast of Alaska, and is one of the longest salmon runs anywhere in the world. Each year, hundreds of thousands of king (Chinook) salmon migrate upstream to spawn, then die

Weymouth paddles the Yukon from source to sea over the course of two summers, tracing the lifecycle of the salmon and the deep ties the fish have with communities along the river. He explores current and historic cultural and commercial connections, and probes ideas of what the future may hold for both fish and people in the light of climate change, a globalised economy, and fundamental changes to the balance of nature across the region and on a greater scale. It has many parallels with another book I’ve previously enjoyed, Cod by Mark Kurlansky. Buy it here.

Inside: One Woman’s Journey Through the Inside Passage – Susan Marie Conrad

This is Conrad’s account of a 66-day solo kayak expedition through the Inside Passage of the Pacific Northwest region, from Anacortes in Washington State to Juneau, Alaska. Refreshingly for a book of this type by a female writer, the writing focuses mainly on the narrative account of the expedition, the detailed planning and preparation, and the intensive physical preparation Conrad undertakes ahead of the journey, rather than being wholly an introspective memoir on finding oneself through adventure. However the landscapes travelled through and the events of the trip are vividly described, from relentless rain and challenging tidal conditions to spectacular scenery and encounters with native wildlife, which gives this part of the book the feel of a slow-moving meditation on connecting with nature and reflecting on vulnerability while undertaking a gruelling physical and mental challenge. Get it here.

The Survival of the Bark Canoe – John McPhee

This book was first published in 1975, and captures the craftsmanship required to build a traditional First Nations birchbark canoe through a beautiful character profile of Henri Vaillancourt, a self-taught boatbuilder determined not to let the skills be lost. McPhee describes the process in rich detail, from splitting the trees to shape the frame to laying on the bark skin, and hand carving a paddle, and dives into the history of the crafts.

The second part of the book recounts a canoe voyage McPhee takes along with Vaillancourt, teaching him to paddle his own canoes, and a couple of friends through the big woods of Maine, the wilderness traversed by Thoreau around a century before, searching for the birch trees used in the construction of the boats and musing on connections to nature and use of natural resources. Find it here.

Travel by canoe is not a necessity, and will nevermore be the most efficient way to get from one region to another, or even from one lake to another – anywhere.

John McPhee, The Survival of the Bark Canoe

Kabloona in the Yellow Kayak: One Woman’s Journey Through the Northwest Passage – Victoria Jason

A hard-learned lesson in choosing a paddle partner with a similar outlook on life, compatible goals and objectives for an expedition, and a leadership style that suits everyone involved in the undertaking. Over the summers of 1991 to 1994, Jason took part in a 7,500km kayak from Churchill, Manitoba to Tuktoyaktuk on the Beaufort Sea, initially with two companions, Fred Reffler and experienced kayaker Don Starkel. Beset by injury and illness, Reffler pulls out of the expedition early on, and Jason is forced to drop out with extreme fatigue on reaching Gjoa Haven in the second summer. Starkell continued alone before being rescued just a couple of days short of Tuktoyaktuk, close to death and suffering severe frostbite.

Not content with abandoning the expedition, Jason returned in the following summers to complete the journey alone from west to east, paddling from Fort Providence on the Mackenzie River to Paulatuk in 1993, and from Paulatuk to Gjoa Haven in 1994. The book is a testament to Jason’s resilience and tenacity, especially as on setting out in 1991 she had been kayaking for just a year and was still recovering from the second of two strokes. Get it here.

The Pacific Alone: The Untold Story of Kayaking’s Boldest Voyage – Dave Shively

In the summer of 1987, Ed Gillet undertook an awesome challenge, paddling solo and unsupported from Monterrey, California, to the island of Maui, Hawaii, a distance of around 3,700km (2,300 miles). An accomplished paddler and sailor with several previous endurance kayaking expeditions under his belt, navigating by the sun and stars, fixing his position by sextant, he completed the gruelling voyage in 63 days, four days after his food rations had run out. The physical toll of the voyage extended to pounding from the relentless Pacific swell, saltwater sores and sun exposure, and extreme exhaustion from a lack of sleep. Shively builds the remarkable story from Gillet’s expedition logbook and in-depth interviews with Gillet, his wife Katie, and other expedition supporters. Find it here.

The Happy Isles of Oceania: Paddling the Pacific – Paul Theroux

Over the course of a year and a half in the early 1990s, Theroux spent time on fifty-one islands across the Pacific, from the larger islands of New Zealand and Papua New Guinea to less visited further flung specks of land surrounded hundreds of miles of ocean, equipped with just a folding kayak, small tent and sleeping bag. Theroux’s writing is always personal, the lens through which he views his travel experience, and this book reflects on the separation and impending divorce from his wife. This introspection filters into portraits of locals and snapshots of places, filled out with deep dives into the history and culture of the region. Find it here.

Four Corners: A Journey into the Heart of Papua New Guinea – Kira Salak

Salak sets out to traverse the breadth of Papua New Guinea in the mid-1990s, leaving behind the threat of crime and violence in the city to flyover swampy jungle, trek on foot through mountainous highlands, and paddle by dugout canoe through the Sepik River and its tributaries. Her solo journey pushes her to her physical and emotional limits, and she explores the fears and risks faced by women travelling on their own in remote locations, where linguistic and cultural differences create additional challenges to be navigated.

She offers a glimpse into the history, geography, and culture of a lesser-visited area of the world, through the nature of her expedition means these are more of a snapshot view than insights illuminating the lives of people and the relationship they have with place. The narrative is much more about the interior journey Salak undertakes, the compulsion to keep moving through the landscape supporting a spiritual voyage based on the desire to transform herself and find contentment. Get it here.

Paddlenorth: Adventure, Resilience and Renewal in the Arctic Wild – Jennifer Kingsley

Kingsley and five companions set out to make a canoe descent of the Back River (Haningayok / Great Fish River) in Nunavut Territory, taking 54 days to reach the Arctic Ocean. This book is an honest and authentic account of an expedition through a wilderness area by Canadian canoe, avoiding embellishment to the challenge of the undertaking, the nature of the terrain traversed, or interactions with wildlife encountered. It also avoids the trope of the voyage becoming a metaphor for a journey of self-discovery, yet eloquently explores the transformational impact of time spent in wild areas and the dynamics of a team operating in such a setting. Scattered through the expedition journal and accounts of wildlife sightings, icy swims, painful blisters, and personal celebrations, are vignettes of history, politics, Inuit culture, and ecology which bring the spectacular Arctic landscape to life. Find it here.

The Frayed Atlantic Edge: A Historian’s Journey from Shetland to the Channel – David Gange

The thesis behind this book is that the sea, the Atlantic Ocean, has shaped the island nations of the UK and Ireland much more than widely recognised and that a representative history of these islands must view through the lens that coastal communities making their livelihoods on the fringes of the ocean are of equal importance to the major inland cities.

Historian Gange set out to explore these places over the course of a year, paddling the western coasts of the Atlantic archipelago, from Out Stack at the tip of Shetland to Cape Cornwall, via Ireland, diving deeply into the history, geology, folklore, local language and wildlife of each region. The interdisciplinary approach to his writing doesn’t feel as though it jumps from one subject to the next, rather he neatly wraps the layers of history, nature and travel through his prose.

This book was shortlisted for the Wainwright Prize for nature writing in 2020, and I read it early in 2021 while in winter lockdown in a small flat in snowy Aberdeen. The slow, unhurried pace of the book and the rich veins of information it contains were an engaging escape at the time, and it’s one of the best books I’ve read recently. Find it here.

Read more from David Gange’s blog of the expedition here The Frayed Atlantic Edge – A Historian’s Journey from Shetland to the Channel

Have I included your favourite book featuring travels by canoe or kayak? Leave me your reviews or recommendations, non-fiction or fiction, in the comments below.

If you’ve really enjoyed my Armchair Travel recommendations, you can buy me a virtual coffee here.

Did this post capture your imagination? Why not pin it for later?

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through my link, I will make a small commission* at no additional cost to you. These help me to continue to run this site, provide tips and advice, and share stories from my adventures. Thank you for supporting me.

*Maybe enough for a coffee.  Not enough for a yacht, or even a sea kayak.

In this edition of Armchair Travel, I’ve curated a collection of some of the true classics of travel writing. The beauty of many of these travelogues is that they take us back to lands which no longer exist.

This is a selection of notable titles by some of the best-known names in the genre, many of which have inspired later writers and travellers. It includes well-known works seeded by mountaineering and polar expeditions, journals of travels in unusual circumstances and situations, and wry looks at more familiar places. It should be recognised that some of the content of the books listed and the ideas expressed within have aged much better than others.

Read on to dive into the inspiration that has fuelled generations of travellers, ideas planning a travel adventure, or to travel vicariously in space and time without leaving the sofa.

The Innocents Abroad – Mark Twain (1869)

Twain and a companion spend several months touring Europe, North Africa, and the Middle East on a cruise of the Mediterranean during the period of transition from Grand Tour to modern tourism. He writes sharp, insightful dispatches for an American newspaper, peppered with irreverent observations, satirical caricatures, and his trademark acerbic wit. However, it is to be noted that his views spill over into racism and Islamophobia at points. At a time when few travelled intercontinentally, his accounts were a lesson in culture and history, not just for his readers at home, but for those abroad encountering the brashness of Americans for the first time. The account is the source of the much-quoted observation below. Find it here.

“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people needed it sorely on these accounts.”

Mark Twain

The Worst Journey in the World – Apsley Cherry-Garrard (1922)

The title of this book really is no exaggeration, and it’s no spoiler to let you know things do not go well. In 1912 Cherry-Garrard was the youngest member of the ill-fated Terra Nova Expedition led by Robert Falcon Scott. He was part of the team making the infamous Winter Journey to the penguin rookery at Cape Crozier with Edward Wilson and Birdie Bowers, and crossed the Great Ice Barrier and Bearmore Glacier with the polar party before being sent back at latitude 85° 20′ South. After leading the final unsuccessful rescue mission, Cherry-Garrard was part of the team uncovering the fate of Scott and the rest of the party, just 11 miles short of One-Ton Depot. Wracked with survivor’s guilt, he poured himself into this work, piecing together diary extracts from other team members, adding details of scientific endeavours and anecdotes of resilience and endurance in the frozen South. Get it here.

The Valley of the Assassins – Freya Stark (1934)

Stark is an intrepid explorer, trained as a geographer and cartographer, perhaps even working in the intelligence service, who writes engagingly of the people she encounters on her travels and challenged the perception of travelling safely as a solo woman. This book recounts several separate trips undertaken by Stark, into Luristan and its bordering regions, the mountainous area between Iraq and present-day Iran, as the fragmenting Ottoman Empire allowed access to areas previously off-limits to Western Europeans. It is hard to ignore that Stark is essentially a gravel robber, with obtaining grave goods and skulls the primary reason for her interest, which she justifies on the basis that it was better these were acquired on behalf of museums than fall into the hands of private collectors. Find it here.

Green Hills  of Africa – Ernest Hemingway (1935)

An account of a month Hemingway spent on safari in East Africa with his second wife, Pauline Pfeiffer, in 1933 when such an expedition was the height of glamour. He aspires to spend his time in the Serengeti shooting big game, fishing, drinking, and debating literature and philosophy with his fellow hunters. The book graphically describes the killing of animals, and though Hemingway acknowledges this will be distasteful to many and imagines the feeling of his prey close to death, he only shows contrition over a job poorly done. Alongside capturing the adrenaline rush of the hunt, and the notions of masculinity it conferred, he writes beautifully about the landscape and nature of the African bush. Get it here.

Journey Without Maps – Graham Greene (1936)

In 1935, successful novelist Greene undertook a trip to Liberia, a part of West Africa little known to Europeans, with his cousin Barbera as a travel companion. All the others invited to join him turned him down flat, but Greene was fascinated to explore the influences of colonialism in the region, and investigate the factors enabling Liberia to retain independence in the late-nineteenth century Scramble for Africa. Starting in Freetown, in the neighbouring British colonial possession of Sierra Leone, he treks inland with a team of porters to French Guinea, then through Liberia, a nation founded around a hundred years prior by formerly enslaved people and free-born Black people from the US and Caribbean. Greene’s narrative is compelling and insightful, exploring and exposing European myths about Africa, albeit through the white male gaze of the time. Get it here.

Black Lamb and Grey Falcon – Rebecca West (1942)

West travelled with her husband to the Balkans in the spring of 1937, their six-week journey through inter-war Yugoslavia was a return visit to document the history, political situation, and people of the region as the dark clouds of WWII gathered over Europe. The scale of the undertaking is epic, with more than 1200 pages of travel journal, historic insight, and cultural commentary, probing the fragmented and troubled history of the Balkan states and the uneasy relationships of the people of the region. They travel through what was then Croatia, Dalmatia, Herzegovina, Bosnia, Serbia, Macedonia, and Montenegro, recently on the fringes of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and the remains of the Ottoman Empire, now lying between Nazi Germany and Fascist Italy. West’s writing is exceptional in its clarity and striking imagery, a masterpiece by turns witty and beautiful, on the edge of overwhelming. Find it here.

A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush – Eric Newby (1958)

Bored of his career in the London fashion trade, Newby undertakes an expedition to make a first ascent of Mir Samir (5,089m / 19,058′) in the Hindu Kush mountains of Afghanistan. After just four days of training in Snowdonia, the woefully underprepared duo of Newby and Carless set off on their transcontinental expedition to reach Kabul, and into the mountains of Nuristan, where he bumps into renowned explorer Wilfred Thesiger. The book is an entertaining read, though for its frivolity is a comprehensive history of colonial expansion into South and Central Asia and the Himalayas, and the insight into the Nuristan region is a glimpse of somewhere much changed by events of subsequent years. Read it here.

Travels with Charley in Search of America – John Steinbeck (1961)

In 1960, Steinbeck loads up a pick-up truck camper and sets off on a road trip across the United States, travelling though forty states, accompanied by his French poodle, Charley. At the age of fifty-eight, feeling the softening of age about him and growing a little weary with the world, he aims to reconnect with his subject matter and meet the people that make up this new America and understand their stories. He writes with insight into the upheaval and change of the 1960’s, the loss of regional diversity across the country, and the changes in the environment. This is an account of a quiet journey rather than an adventure, slipping into travel-inspired fiction in places. Buy it here.

As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning – Laurie Lee (1979)

Lee writes evocatively of his younger days, when at the age of 19, he leaves his small village in Gloucestershire and travels on foot to London, via Southampton, to find work as an itinerant labourer. He travels to Spain, supporting himself by means of his fiddle, tramping across the country on foot and becoming enchanted by the country, the people he meets, the music and customs he experiences. It is 1934, and life is hard in Spain, poverty is inescapable, and the signs of impending civil war are everywhere. This is in part a coming-of-age narrative as much as a travelogue, as the young Lee is filled out by his experiences, capturing the atmosphere, beauty, and tensions of Spain in lyrical prose. Find it here.

The Songlines – Bruce Chatwin (1987)

Central Australia was one of the few regions of the globe inhabited not by herders, pastoralists, or farmers, but by nomadic hunter-gathering people. As they moved across the continent they carved a network of invisible pathways in space and time, the Songlines of the title, which tie together cultural heritage, rites and rituals, and the human condition. This stands in vivid contrast to the prevailing culture of Australia, and Chatwin explores the conflicts between an indigenous population and a colonial force, impoverished people and wealthy, wanderers and the settled. I feel the insights of the book are enhanced by the unusual, shape-shifting form of the writing. It compiles travelogue and anthropology with Chatwin’s famed diaries, and a touch of fiction, making only a token attempt to merge these facets together, often running through deep, probing passages, interspersed with some that are little more than field sketches, before breaking down completely into scattered notes and journal extracts. Get it here.

Do you have any recommendations for classic travel books that I should read?

Did this post capture your imagination? Why not pin it for later?

This post contains affiliate links.  If you purchase through my link, I will make a small commission* at no additional cost to you.  These help me to continue to run this site, providing tips and advice, and sharing stories from my adventures.  Thank you for supporting me.

*Maybe enough for a coffee.  Not enough for a yacht.

Extreme Environments

In Defence of Adventurous Mothers

Written following the death of ski mountaineer Hilaree Nelson on Mansulu in early October, and examining the criticism directed towards women with children participating in high-risk activities in extreme environments.

An Acquaintance with Fear

Former British Royal Marine and safety specialist operator Aldo Kane explores managing fear while operating in risky and extreme environments.

The End is my Beginning

An essay by Tamara Lunger on when things go wrong in an extreme environment and those who are left behind must pick up the pieces and continue based on her experience on K2 in 2021.

Existential Risk and Ecological Anxiety

Half of the World’s bird species in decline as destruction of avian life intensifies

Findings from the State of the World’s Birds report that human activity and climate crisis have put almost half of all species in decline, and around 1 in 8 at risk of extinction.

Britain faces biodiversity collapse

The UK is one of the most nature-depleted nations on the globe, and current levels of biodiversity may not be nearly enough to mitigate against the risk of ecosystem collapse.

Climate tipping points could lock in unstoppable changes to the planet – how close are they?

An assessment of the potential climate tipping points which will result in ecological collapse and devastating changes to the planet, and changing understanding of risk with advancing models.

“More Like War Photography” photographing the Arctic during a climate crisis

An exploration of the ethics of tourism to the polar regions to capture an environment hanging in the balance.

The colourful little city of Stanley is the capital of the Falkland Islands, located on a large natural harbour on the eastern side of East Falkland island, and the only settlement of any real size in the archipelago. Formally awarded city status in 2022, as part of the late Queen Elizabeth’s Platinum Jubilee honours, this far outpost of the UK is fiercely proud of its British heritage, but has a unique character all of its own to discover.

In this guide you’ll find tips for the best things to do in and around Stanley, with options for different seasons and weather conditions, plus my recommendations for places to eat and drink, where to stay, and travel information. And take a look at my guide to visiting the Falkland Islands here.

A Vagabond Guide to Stanley, Falkland Islands

The Best Things to Do in Stanley

Take a walking tour of the City of Stanley

With a population of just around 3,000 or so, it might seem like a reach to call Stanley a city by the usual metrics, but there’s no shortage of historical and cultural landmarks to discover on a walking tour, from the solemn to the quirky. After all, living in a small community in a relatively isolated location makes you acutely aware of the ties that connect to the wider world, and the things that make you distinctive.

The local architecture is an interesting hybrid of traditional British styles with a local response based on functionality and practicality, epitomised by Jubilee Villas at the corner of Ross Road and Philomel Street, and the cottages of Marmont Row. The stone-built terraced villas are topped with colourful corrugated tin roofs, one of which is home to Falklands Conservation, the NGO which leads environmental conservation across the archipelago.

Christ Church Cathedral is the southernmost Anglican cathedral on the planet, and serves as the parish church for the Falkland Islands, South Georgia, and the British Antarctic Territories. Built between 1890 and 1892, it stands on the site of an earlier church building which was destroyed, along with several other buildings and the loss of two lives, by a peat slide that slammed into the early settlement.

The Whalebone Arch outside the Cathedral is a Stanley landmark, created from the jaws of two blue whales in 1933 to commemorate a century of British presence on the islands. The whales were hunted in the waters around the South Sandwich Islands, then part of the territory known as the Falkland Islands Dependencies, now a part of the British Overseas Territory of South Georgia, and the epicentre of industrial whaling in the Southern Ocean in the early 20th Century. The scale of the animals from which these bones originated is humbling.

Wandering down side streets, you’ll find colourful houses and fences painted in the colours of the Union flag, and one of the city’s most famous landmarks, a lawn occupied by a legion of garden gnomes. Other reminders of the British identity of the islanders to look out for are several red phone boxes, red post boxes, and a red Routemaster double-decker bus.

Outside the Secretariat buildings, overlooking the harbour, is the 1982 Liberation Memorial, dedicated to the 255 British military personnel and merchant seamen, and three Falkland Islands civilians that lost their lives in the 1982 Falklands Conflict. The large memorial, topped with a sculpture of Britannia, the personification of Britain, lists the names of the Royal Naval vessels, British Army units, Royal Air Force squadrons, Royal Marine units, and Merchant Navy vessels involved in the operation, and is an important stop for those interested in exploring the military history of these Islands.

Nearby is a memorial to Margaret Thatcher, British Prime Minister at the time of the Falklands War. A divisive and contentious figure in my home country of Scotland, she’s near-universally revered in the islands for her leadership during the conflict. Below a bust of Maggie is a quote from a speech she gave in the British Parliament following the Argentine invasion of the Falkland Islands in April 1982, “They are few in number, but they have the right to live in peace, to choose their own way of life and determine their own allegiance.”

Further west, on the edge of Stanley, is a monument commemorating the Battle of the Falklands in 1914, a key naval engagement of WWI between the British Royal Navy and the Imperial German Navy which you can read more about here. Nearby is a sculpture of the Sun, rendered in recycled corten steel, that sits at the centre of an installation of a model of the solar system at 1:1 billion scale. If you have the time, the planets can be discovered on a day-long hike, right out to tiny Pluto near the top of Mount Tumbledown.

Read more | A Comprehensive Guide to the Falkland Islands

Travel Tip | The Tourist Information Centre is located next to the town jetty, on the corner of Ross Road and Philomel Street. They can book tours for you, arrange vehicle hire, and provide maps and information leaflets for self-guided exploration of Stanley and the surrounding area.

Did You Know? | There is a memorial to the Argentine casualties of the Falklands War located in the Argentine Military Cemetery in Fish Creek, near the Darwin-Goose Green settlements. The remains of 236 Argentine combatants are interred in the cemetery. A further British memorial is located at the Blue Beach Military Cemetery in the settlement of Port San Carlos, on the west of East Falkland. A dedicated military history and battlefield tour with an expert local guide can be booked through the Tourist Information Centre.

Visit the Falkland Islands Museum and Historic Dockyard

The Falkland Islands Museum is the place to get an understanding of the islands, the history, and the people who live there. The comprehensive galleries cover the social, natural, and maritime histories of the islands, as well as exploring the lead-up to and consequences of the 1982 conflict, and the role of the islands as a staging post for the exploration of Antarctica. The museum is excellent, and seeing all the displays could easily fill most of your day. Not to be missed is a particularly moving display with audio recordings from Islanders who were young children at the time of the war in 1982 recounting their memories and experiences.

Around the Historic Dockyard there are several other historic buildings to visit: the 1840s smithy, showing the forges and tools used by blacksmiths, and the importance of horses in the islands; an old-fashioned laundry house; the original printing press and workshop; and the Island’s telephone exchange and radio hub, which kept the islands connected to each other and the outside world right up to the advent of satellite communications. Visitors can also see inside Cartmell Cottage on Pioneer Row, where rooms are staged to show island life from the 1840s right through to the 1970s.

Where + When | Falkland Islands Museum, Historic Dockyard. Opening hours: Tuesday to Friday, 1000 to 1600, Saturday 0900 to 1100 and 1300 to 1600, Sunday 1300 to 1600. Hours are often extended on days with cruise ship visits, and weekend hours are reduced in winter.

Send a postcard at the Post Office and become a philatelic nerd

I love postcards, both sending them to family and friends and receiving them from others. A lovely scene with a personalised message is a small but thoughtful gift, and if you send it to yourself, a great reminder of your travels. Postcards can be purchased in the Tourist Information Centre and many of the gift shops, but it’s worth checking out the Philatelic Bureau at the Post Office for special issue postage stamps, collector’s edition stamps, and First Day cover collections with Falkland Island themes like penguins, Land Rovers, and the British Royal Family. Drop your cards in the red Post Box outside the Post Office, and see if they arrive home before you do. The Stanley Philatelic Bureau also sells stamp issues for South Georgia and the British Antarctic Territory, so you can get a second chance at shopping if your cruise ship has been unable to make landings in Grytviken or Port Lockroy. Find out more on the Falklands Stamps website.

Where + When | Stanley Post Office and Philatelic Bureau, Ross Road. Opening hours: Monday to Friday 0800 to 1700.

Go for a Pint in the Victory Bar

After all the walking around, head for the Victory Bar. Inside an unassuming wooden building is a traditional British pub that’s popular with locals and visitors alike. With a dark wood bar, open wood fire, pool tables and dartboards, it feels very much like the pub run by my parents where I grew up, albeit with strings of Falkland Islands and Union Flags along the beams of the ceiling and military memorabilia on the walls. The bar serves most favourites, though beer fans should go for one of the local cask ales from Falklands Beerworks, like Rockhopper blonde ale or a Peat Cutter oatmeal stout.

Where + When | Victory Bar, Philomel Street. Opening Hours: Monday to Friday, 1100 to 1300 and 1600 to 2300, Saturday 1100 to 2330, and Sunday 1200 to 2230.

Visit the Falkland Beerworks Taproom

Holding the rare honour of being the most remote microbrewery in the world, Falkland Beerworks produces traditional cask-conditioned real ales as a response to the lack of beer cellars equipped with CO2 systems in local pubs and bars. The popular beers are named for local events and notable figures, such as the Longdon Pride best bitter and the Iron Lady IPA, and can be sampled in the tap room. Fans can also pick up bottled and boxed beer to take away, and merchandise to support the endeavour.

Where + When | Falkland Beerworks, John Street. Opening hours: usually Friday 1400 to 2030, and Saturday 1300 to 1700. Check Facebook for details.

Take a Smoko at a Café

A longstanding Falkland Islands tradition, smoko is the name given to the mid-morning and mid-afternoon breaks enjoyed by workers, especially on farms around the sheep shearing season. In Camp and on the outer islands, where visitors can be few and far between, it’s a chance to get together with rarely seen friends and welcome guests over a big pot of tea and some home baking and share news. In Stanley, smoko often involves visiting a favourite café to sample the scones and cakes on offer. Make sure to try some local specialities, like scones with a dollop of diddle-dee jam or teaberry buns. Try the Teaberry Café located at the Historic Dockyard, or see my suggestions of places to eat in Stanley further down the post.

Where + When | Teaberry Café, Historic Dockyard. Opening hours: Monday to Friday, 0730 to 1530. Hours are often extended on days with cruise ship visits.

Shop for Souvenirs at Studio 52

There are a few souvenir shops lining the street between the Town Jetty and the Post Office, but Studio 52 has something a bit different on offer. Owner Julie is a photographer and graphic designer, who in addition to producing her own prints and Falkland-inspired homewares, printed with local icons like penguins and Land Rovers, also dabbles in jewellery design and making soaps. The studio also showcases products from other local artists, sculptors, ceramicists, photographers, and jewellery makers, and is the place to find a special memento of your time in the Falkland Islands.

Where + When | Studio 52, Ross Road. Opening hours can vary.

Read more | Photo Journal: Land Rovers of the Falkland Islands

Visit the Magellanic Penguins at Gypsy Cove

The white sand beaches at Yorke Bay and Gypsy Cove, in the Cape Pembroke National Nature Reserve, are the most accessible locations for watching wildlife near Stanley. Charismatic magellanic penguins, known locally as jackass penguins for their braying call, nest in burrows in the peaty soil of the headland behind the beach. Steamer ducks, much larger than the diminutive penguins, share the sands, and rock shags perch on the low cliffs. Small songbirds like the distinctive long-tailed meadowlark and excellently-named dark-faced ground tyrant are spotted on the heathland vegetation and amongst the tussac grass. And dolphins and sea lions can often be seen playing in the surf.

During the 1982 conflict the Yorke Bay area was extensively mined, then fenced off and signposted to prevent human and livestock access to the minefields. The area became a refuge for native flora and fauna, with penguins in particular, being too light to detonate the landmines, thriving in these areas.

Now cleared of mines and safe to access, a short interpretive trail leads from a parking area to a viewpoint overlooking the bay and the penguin colony. Beyond the Gypsy Cove viewpoint, a rough track continues on to Ordnance Point, or you can return to the start of the trail and head towards Yorke Bay, then Whalebone Cove, to return to Stanley.

Ordnance Point was a WWII defence post, to protect the approaches to the Narrows and the safe waters of Stanley, and the concrete foundations of the buildings and a mounted gun from the time are still to be found. The track continues around the headland over the diddle-dee heath, with views across Port William to Twelve o’Clock Mountain and Mount Low, to Engineer Point.

Engineer Point forms one side of the Narrows, the entrance into Stanley Harbour from Port William, and continuing along the rough track around the shore leads to Whalebone Cove, littered with wreckage from old ships. The tilted rusty hulk of the three-masted barque Lady Elizabeth is a local landmark.

The Lady Liz, as she’s known to locals, has been lying in the harbour since 1912. Shipping from Vancouver bound for Mozambique, she was damaged in foul weather rounding Cape Horn and limped towards Port Stanley for repairs, and struck a rock on the approach to the harbour that ripped a hole in her side. Written off by the insurer, she was sold for use as a coal hulk in the settlement, but her mooring lines broke during a storm in 1936 and she drifted to her current location in Whalebone Cove. The excellent Falklands Maritime Heritage Trust website has more information about all the wrecks around the coast.

The walk out and back to Gypsy Cove, by Ordnance Point and Engineer Point, from the centre of Stanley is around 12km (7.5 miles), though it is possible to arrange a taxi to drop you off or pick you up to reduce the total distance. Cruise visitors may find their ship has arranged a bus to shuttle to and from the site as one of their excursion options.

Did You Know? | Around 30,000 landmines were laid across the Falkland Islands during the 1982 conflict. Many were cleared immediately following liberation, but operations were halted in 1983 following a series of accidents. Minefields were fenced off and signposted for the following few decades, until the UK Government committed to the removal of all landmines in 1998, aiming to complete the process by 2009. The final landmines were finally lifted from the dune system behind Yorke Bay in 2020, and the Falkland Islands are now landmine free.

Visit Cape Pembroke Lighthouse

Located at the easternmost tip of the Falkland Islands, around 11km (7 miles) from Stanley, the lighthouse at Cape Pembroke looks out into a vast expanse of Ocean, where the South Atlantic meets the wild Southern Ocean. The next landfall is Bird Island, South Georgia, around 750 nautical miles to the southeast.

The distinctive black and white banded lighthouse was built in 1855, a cast iron construction 18 metres high. The lamp originally burnt rape seed oil, but a problem with supply led to it being supplemented with sea lion oil, which was much more readily available in the local area. The light was converted to a clockwork mechanism burning paraffin in 1906, and eventually decommissioned after WWII. The structure is maintained by the National Trust of the Falkland Islands, and it is possible to collect a key from the Museum to enter.

Just beyond the lighthouse is a large ship’s propeller amongst the tussac grass, a memorial to the SS Atlantic Conveyor, a merchant ship requisitioned by the British military in 1982 to transport supplies, including helicopters, to the islands. She was hit by two Exocet missiles, which caused a fire to burn out of control. The ship eventually sank off Cape Pembroke with the loss of 12 lives.

The headland is a spectacular location for birdwatching, particularly albatrosses, petrels, and shearwaters, and for looking out for whales, or just watching breaking surf from swells which have rolled up from Antarctica. Care should be taken at certain times of the year, as sea lions often come ashore and snooze among the tussac grass. The bulls are massive and quite scary when unexpectedly encountered (take this from my experience!).

Hiking to Cape Pembroke is around 11km (7 miles) each way, and can take around 3 hours in each direction. It is possible to arrange a drop-off or pick up with a local driver to reduce the total distance for a self-guided hike or book a tour with a local guide, which often includes a stop at Gypsy Cove and York Bay on the way.

Take a Battlefield Tour Hike of Mount Tumbledown

Overlooking Stanley from the west, Mount Tumbledown was the location of one of the critical battles in the Falklands War, just prior to the Argentine surrender. A contingent of Royal Marines Commandos and Parachute Regiment soldiers had crossed the island on foot from San Carlos, carrying all their equipment, to take the surrounding peaks of Mount Longdon, Mount Harriet and Two Sisters. They covered 90km (56 miles) in three days, facing blizzards and high winds on the yomp.

Soldiers of the Scots Guards were tasked with taking Tumbledown, and faced fierce firefights through a minefield to meet their objective. It was reported that casualties would have been much higher had the ground not been soft peat, which absorbed much of the impact of the mortars which fell. The circular craters left behind have formed small ponds on the flanks of the mountain. Rocks on the crags have been moved and re-laid to create foxholes, and the rusted remains of an Argentine field kitchen unit sit in a sheltered spot below the crag.

At the summit, there is a simple memorial cross, with a stunning panoramic view of the mountains to Stanley Harbour and the city, with Cape Pembroke beyond. A collection of small plaques, personal mementoes, and an empty bottle of whisky once shared with absent friends sit at its foot.

The routes to the top of Tumbledown and Mount William are unmarked, for the most part following off-road vehicle tracks across rough ground, followed by an easy rocky scramble towards the peaks. A guide isn’t necessary if you’re confident in navigation, but you will gain knowledge and insight into the events that took place on the slopes of the mountains in the lead-up to the liberation of the islands. The Tourist Information Centre can arrange a knowledgeable local guide for the hike, or you can pick up a leaflet for a self-guided hike there.

The circular walk to Mount Tumbledown from Moody Brook, via Mount William, is approximately 5km (3 miles), with an additional 4.5km (2.75 miles) each way from the centre of Stanley to Moody Brook. It is possible to arrange a taxi to drop you off or pick you up to reduce the total distance for a self-guided hike, or a local guide will include the drive out to Moody Brook and back in their tour. Cruise visitors may find their ship has arranged a bus to shuttle to and from the site as one of their excursion options.

Take a Tour to Volunteer Point

Volunteer Point, located on Johnson’s Harbour Farm in the northeast of East Falkland, is one of the most popular spots for day trips in the Falklands. The beautiful long, white sand beach of the peninsula is home to the largest colony of king penguins in the archipelago, as well as gentoo and magellanic penguins, and a number of other notable bird species. Dolphins and sea lions are also seen regularly around the coast.

But it’s the kings who steal the show, huddled together on the beach. There are around 2,000 breeding pairs, and with king penguins, there’s the opportunity to see the big fluffy chicks, known as oakum boys by old sailors after the material used to caulk the decks of their ship, and tiny chicks, perched on top of their parents’ feet, at the same time.

To reach Volunteer Point takes around 2.5 hours’ drive each way, on the gravel road from Stanley to Johnson’s Harbour, followed by an off-road track that’s only passable in a 4X4 when conditions are dry enough. When the largest cruise ships arrive in port, almost everyone in town with a suitable vehicle becomes a tour guide to ferry visitors out to the site and ensure people get the opportunity to visit.

An alternative way to visit Volunteer Point is on a half-day tour with Falklands Helicopter Services, which combines landing at the location with a scenic flight across Stanley Harbour, Wireless Ridge, Port William, and Johnston’s Harbour on the way. The size of the helicopter means everyone gets a window seat for amazing views of the coast and local landmarks, shipwrecks and empty beaches, winding rivers and rugged stone runs.

Most visitors only make a day trip to Volunteer Point, but full board visitor accommodation is available in the Warden’s house, a short walk from the beach, between October and April for longer stays.

Explore the coast on a sea kayaking tour with Falklands Outdoors

The coast of the Falkland Islands is wild and beautiful, and the best way to explore is by sea kayak. Paddling along white sand beaches, there’s a chance for close encounters with dolphins, sea lions, penguins, and even large whales at the right time of year. A half-day tour close to Stanley will still feel like a remote adventure.

Conditions can be challenging at times, with a prevailing westerly wind that’s rarely absent, so Falkland Outdoors can outfit experienced paddlers and help with local knowledge for planning trips.

Half-day trips are £100, or £90 per person for groups of six, including all equipment hire and an experienced guide They also offer guided mountain bike tours, a half-day is £90 (or £110 for an e-bike) and mountain bike hire, a half-day for £40 or full-day for £55.

Travel Tip | The currency used in the Falkland Islands is the Falkland Islands Pound (FKP), which is tied to UK Pounds Sterling (GBP) and can be used interchangeably in the islands*. There are no ATM cash machines in the centre of Stanley, but the Standard Chartered Bank and West Stores supermarket will give cash back for a card transaction. Card payments are widely accepted, and some places may also take payments in USD and EUR.*FKP will not be accepted in the UK, so try to spend all you have before you leave.

Where to Stay in Stanley

There’s a range of accommodation options available in Stanley for different budgets and travel styles, however, availability can be limited at certain times of the season, especially with the influx of contract workers at times of the year. Research well and book as early as possible.

Here’s my pick of guesthouses, B&Bs, and hotels in and around Stanley.

Waterfront Boutique Hotel | Located in the centre of Stanley with views across the harbour to Wireless Ridge, this small luxury hotel is beautiful and cosy, and offers residents free access to Wi-Fi, a very rare thing in the Falkland Islands.

Malvina House Hotel | Opposite the Historic Dockyard, the Malvina is the oldest and largest hotel in the Falklands. The Malvina also has a spa with a sauna and jacuzzi, available for private booking by residents and non-residents.

Lafone Guest House | A comfortable lodge-style house located around a 10-minute walk from the centre of Stanley. The wonderful host Arelette was thinking of retiring soon, so changes may be afoot.

Pale Maiden BnB | A clean and modern bed and breakfast close to the centre of Stanley, with great views of the city from the lounge. Teresa is a knowledgeable and attentive host and provides an excellent breakfast with a great selection of local produce.

Lookout Lodge | A large budget hotel which serves both tourists and contract workers located close to Stanley Services, around a 15-minute walk from the centre of Stanley.

Did You Know? | The Malvina is named after Malvina James, the youngest daughter of the Scottish settler who built the house in the 1870s, and unconnected to the Spanish name for the islands. Evelyne Station, a farm near Teal Inlet, is named for her elder sister, and their photograph hangs in the hall of the hotel.

Where to Eat and Drink in Stanley

There are a few great places to eat in Stanley, and Facebook is often the best place to find opening hours and up-to-date menus. I’d recommend trying the following:

Waterfront Kitchen Café | Part of the Waterfront Boutique Hotel, the café is a great spot for everything from a mid-morning smoko with great coffee and homebakes, to filling lunches, and Italian-inspired bistro meals with a couple glasses of wine. Possibly the best range of vegetarian options.

Groovy’s | A cool bar and restaurant specialising in tapas-style sharing platters and cocktails, with big burgers, Chilean-inspired specials, vegetarian options, and a good wine selection.  They often have live music at the weekend, but through the week it’s the place to enjoy a board game with friends.

UnWined | A sophisticated yet relaxed wine bar, serving a selection of tasty nibbles and finger food to enjoy with your drinks. This is where Falklanders go for date night.

Grubz Up | A popular pop-up food truck usually found on Friday and Saturday nights outside the Victory Bar and just around the corner from Falklands Beerworks. Rhys serves delicious food in generous portions, including some hearty St Helenian home cooking.

Malvina House Hotel | A classic hotel restaurant with a la carte dining and occasional buffet nights. The pizzas are enormous and the crispy squid is sensational. The Malvina is also the location of Harbourlights Cinema, so the bar is a great spot to grab drinks and a quick meal before watching a film.

Narrows Bar| A friendly pub restaurant with a view across to the Narrows at the entrance to the natural harbour, serving traditional pub food in generous portions.

Shorty’s Diner| A relaxed diner that’s popular with locals, with an extensive menu for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and a big selection of cakes for a mid-morning or mid-afternoon smoko. Shorty’s Motel next door provides affordable accommodation in en-suite cabins.

How to get to Stanley, Falkland Islands

The Falkland Islands are located in the South Atlantic Ocean, just 700km north of Antarctica, and around 500km from their nearest landfall in South America. Most visitors arrive on a cruise ship, with others arriving on flights from Santiago or Punta Arenas in Chile, or the military Falklands Airbridge flight from the UK.

Read more | A Comprehensive Guide to the Falkland Islands

Stanley is a small city, and walking is often the best way to get around. Taxis are available locally, and can also be booked through the Tourist Information Centre.

Vehicle hire can be arranged from Stanley Services and Moody Enterprises. Almost all of the vehicles are 4x4s, as outside of Stanley most roads are gravel and in some areas of Camp off-road driving skills are essential.

Penguin Travel provides bus transfers between Stanley and Mount Pleasant airport, 56km (35 miles) away or around an hour’s drive, and can be booked for group tours to other locations.

The Falkland Islands Government Air Service (FIGAS) operates the Interislander aircraft service which connects Stanley Airport to the rest of the archipelago. They also offer opportunities to take a round-robin scenic flight.

Read my other posts about the Falkland Islands and South Georgia here.

I hope you enjoyed this guide to Stanley, Falkland Island and found it useful. If you have any questions, drop me a message in the comments below.

If you’ve really enjoyed reading my blog, you can buy me a virtual coffee here.

Pin this vagabond guide to Stanley for later.

Please note that some links on this blog are affiliate links, and if you choose to purchase through these links I may receive a small commission* at no additional cost to you. Using these links directly supports These Vagabond Shoes as an independent travel blog, and allows me to create guides to help you travel better.

*Enough for a coffee. Not enough for a yacht.

Armchair Travel this season brings you my favourite books which explore the fascinating cultures of the islands and archipelagos of the Pacific Ocean. Included in the selection are histories and ethnographies, travelogues and tales of adventure which will deepen your knowledge and understanding of the region. I’d love to know if you’ve read any of these books, and if you have any recommendations for me, especially any fiction by Pasifika writers. Leave me a message in the comments below.

But first, read on to find a wee bit of tropical island inspiration for planning your next travel adventure, or set sail on a Pacific voyage of discovery without leaving the sofa.

The Happy Isles of Oceania: Paddling the Pacific – Paul Theroux

Over the course of a year and a half in the early 1990s, Theroux spent time on fifty-one islands across the Pacific, equipped with little more than a folding kayak, a small tent, and his sleeping bag. Attempting to reconcile with his separation and impending divorce from his wife, a level of personal reflection filters into superbly written vignettes of encounters with locals, informed by thorough research into the history and culture of the region. Get it here.

I paddled away thinking how I had once seen these islands as idyllic. I had been wrong. An island of traditional culture cannot be idyllic. It is, instead, completely itself: riddled with magic, superstition, myths, dangers, rivalries, and its old routines. You had to take it as you found it.

Paul Theroux, The Happy Isles of Oceania

Hawaii – James A. Mitchener

A classic work of historical fiction on an epic scale (complete with the maps and genealogical charts essential to follow the narrative), which spans from the formation of the archipelago itself through to the most recent wave of immigration to reach the islands by the time of the book’s publication in the late 1950s, weaving in inspiration from notable characters and events from the island’s story on the way. Michener is obsessive about the granular detail, the minutiae of everyday life that underlie the big events in the story, and the scene-setting building blocks which place the narrative, which makes this read feel much more like non-fiction. Find it here.

The Bounty: The True Story of the Mutiny on the Bounty – Caroline Alexander

We may think we are familiar with the story of Bounty, captained by the tyrannical and dogmatic William Bligh, and the heroic mutineers, headed by Fletcher Christian, who overthrew the oppressive rule on the ship in the pursuit of freedom, but over the intervening years numerous folk tales and the gloss of Hollywood romance have revised and shaped our perceptions. In an attempt to redress the record, Alexander dives deeply into the events leading up to the mutiny, the astonishing feat of navigation in which Bligh was able to rescue loyal crew in an open-boat voyage over 3,500 nautical miles, and the subsequent capture and courts-martial of the mutineers. The book is a dense and detailed historical text, but this does not detract from the remarkable story and the quality of the research and writing. Find it here.

Six Months in the Sandwich Islands: Among Hawaii’s Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, and Volcanoes – Isabella Lucy Bird

Encouraged to travel and spend time outdoors and at sea for a “nervous disposition”, Bird was a pioneer of travel and exploration in the 19th century, becoming the first woman to be elected to the Royal Geographical Society for her writings.  Most of her travels were undertaken in her 40s, 50s and 60s, and to areas often overlooked or previously out of reach to westerners. Despite showing some of the biases of her era, her second book detailing her time exploring the islands of Hilo and Kilauea on horseback is immensely readable, filled with descriptions as lush as the landscape she travelled through.

Fatu Hiva: Back to Nature – Thor Heyerdahl

Long before the era of Kon-Tiki, not long after their graduation and wedding, Heyerdahl and his first wife, Liv Torp, relocated from Oslo to the Marquesas Islands in French Polynesia in 1937 in search of a simple life living close to nature. Fatu-Hiva, the island where they settled for eight months, is the most remote of the archipelago, formed from two interlocking volcanoes and blanketed in lush rainforest and montane cloud forest and a seeming paradise setting for their self-imposed robinsonade. Though written later (adapted from an earlier version with limited reach in Norway), the seeds of Heyerdahl’s theories and more famous adventures can be seen to germinate as they negotiate interactions with islanders and the challenges of life in basic conditions. Heyerdahl also illustrates the dilemma of ethnography; how does one observe another culture at close quarters without both influencing, and being influenced by it, when interaction is essential for daily life.

Typee: A Peep at Polynesian Life – Herman Melville

A compelling blend of travel memoir, embellished ethnographic study, and ripping yarns-style adventure story inspired by the time Melville and a crewmate jumped ship in the Marquesas Islands and spent a month on the island of Nuku Hiva in 1842. The book is filled with descriptions of lush landscapes and evocations of an Eden, but also challenges the notions of paradise and the noble savage outwith the realms of civilisation prevalent in western views of the region. This was Melville’s first book, published when he was 26, and became wildly successful amongst audiences in New York and London, and enabled him to go on to write further works including the masterpiece Moby Dick. Get it here.

The Shark God: Encounters with Ghosts and Ancestors in the South Pacific – Charles Montgomery

An interesting travelogue in the following footsteps vein which just tips into an ethnographic work at points. Sparked by a found photograph, Montgomery retraces the journeys of his great-grandfather, a missionary deployed to Melanesia, through the archipelagos of Vanuatu and the Solomon Islands. Aiming to explore the impact of Christian religion brought by the missionaries against the relicts of the traditional beliefs that came before, he dives deeply into the history, mythology and customs of the region, becoming enraptured by the idea of witnessing magic. He captures the essence of the places and the people he meets in fine detail, while managing not to fall into the trap of judging the past against the present. Buy it here.

Sea People: In Search of the Ancient Navigators of Polynesia – Christina Thompson

The Polynesian Triangle is the vast area of the Pacific Ocean, over 10 million square miles, between the archipelagos of Hawai’i, at the northern apex, Rapa Nui / Easter Island in the southeast, and Aotearoa / New Zealand in the southwest. It includes more than 1,000 scattered islands, reefs and atolls, though within its boundaries the ratio of ocean to land is almost one thousand square miles of water to one square mile of land. The indigenous people of the islands are connected by kinship which spans the ocean, but were pre-literate on the arrival of Europeans in the 1500s leading to much speculation on their origins. Thompson traces the changes in understanding over the centuries, as theories were supported or refuted by increasing scientific understanding, with a depth of knowledge and sensitivity to the various cultures. The writing also captures the beauty of the islands of Oceania and the captivation of the ocean. Get it here.

Blue Latitudes: Going Boldly Where Captain Cook Has Gone Before – Tony Horowitz

Horwitz is a former war correspondent and Pulitzer Prize winner, and that heavyweight journalist pedigree is evident in the depth of the research which lies behind this entertaining travelogue following in the wake of Captain James Cook’s voyages of exploration in the Pacific in the late 1760s and 1770s. He examines the legacy of Cook, not just as a renowned navigator and geographer (some sailing charts of Pacific islands still draw heavily from the data gathered by Cook’s voyages) but also on the culture and heritage of the indigenous people of the islands, and on his role in precipitating the wave of European colonisation which followed him. Find it here.

We, The Navigators – David Lewis

In the early 1970s New Zealander Lewis sailed with some of the few remaining traditional navigators in Polynesia and Melanesia, observing their techniques and documenting the methods shown to him over long ocean voyages. His research captured knowledge that inspired new interest in traditional navigation, and supported a cultural revival across the Pacific, with the formation of voyaging societies and the construction of traditional voyaging canoes like Hōkūleʻa of Hawai’i. The subject matter is fairly technical, taking on concepts like sidereal star charts, land projection and dead reckoning, and will appeal most to readers with first-hand experience out on the water and on the wind, but the narrative is well-paced and peppered with sufficient anecdotes to fascinate and entertain non-sailors too.

Do you dream of visiting the islands of the Pacific Ocean? Which books about the region would you recommend to me?

Did this post capture your imagination? Why not pin it for later?

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through my link, I will make a small commission* at no additional cost to you. These help me to continue to run this site, providing tips and advice, and sharing stories from my adventures. Thank you for supporting me.

*Maybe enough for a coffee.  Not enough for a yacht.

Driving in the Falkland Islands is an experience not for the faint-hearted. Many of the roads outside Stanley are gravel, and often single-track at that, save for a short paved section on the route to Mount Pleasant airport, and in some parts of Camp the road is barely distinguishable from grazing parks, cattle runs, or even bog.

There were few roads outside Stanley before the conflict in 1982. The only options to travel between farms and settlements in Camp was on horseback, or by the ubiquitous farm Land Rovers in convoy, negotiating vast expanses of bog and rough terrain on dirt tracks. An extensive post-war road-building programme saw good all-weather dirt and gravel roads built to almost every settlement on East Falkland, but it wasn’t until the late 1990s that the network extended to West Falkland.

The Falkland Islands have the highest rate of 4WD vehicle ownership anywhere in the world, and the numbers of Land Rovers alone outnumber the permanent residents of the islands. As a consequence, Falklanders are some of the best off-road drivers anywhere in the world.

The original Land Rover (Series I) was developed in 1948 as a rugged, go-anywhere utility vehicle. The simple, easy-to-maintain and repair systems of the Land Rover suited it for life in rural locations, in places where a make-do and mend mindset was second nature, and the first vehicles were brought to the Falklands soon after it entered production.

Once the Series II Land Rover became available in 1958, it became the universal farm vehicle across the islands. Specialist modifications were introduced for the police, fire service, and ambulances, and the local Government, and the British military brought Series III Land Rovers to the islands, which were sold on to local residents as their upgrades were brought in.

And given the make-do-and-mend necessity of life in a rural location, and the easily interchangeable parts of Land Rovers, many classic and vintage vehicles are still in daily use across the archipelago.

An array of models can be seen, from the Series I, II, IIa, and III, Land Rover 90, 110, to the Defender 90, 110 and 130, and 101 Forward Control. There’s even a modified long-wheelbase Defender hearse available for funerals, and somewhere in the islands, a caterpillar-tracked Forest Rover (despite the widespread lack of trees).

You can find much more on the Land Rovers of the Falkland Islands Facebook page.

Have you been to the Falkland Islands? Are you a Land Rover fan? What about these charismatic vehicles that appeal? Let me know your thoughts in the comments below.

If you’ve really enjoyed my Photo Journals, you can buy me a virtual coffee here.

Did this post capture your imagination? Why not pin it for later?

The Falkland Islands are an archipelago of seven hundred or so low, rocky islands which look like they’ve been flung out into the South Atlantic Ocean by the hooked tip of South America. Lying a few hundred kilometres from the coast of Argentina, a troubled history means they look further afield for their closest connections; up the length of the Atlantic to the British Isles, 9,000km (5,600 miles) to the north. The islands are an outpost of Britishness, and a gateway to Antarctica, South Georgia, and the wild Southern Ocean. There’s really nowhere quite like the Falkland Islands.

These small islands aren’t widely known outside certain spheres of interest, making them a destination for curious and intrepid travellers to explore. They’re not easy to travel to, nor particularly affordable, filing them in a ‘once-in-a-lifetime’ trip category for most who visit. Planning and preparation are key to making the most of your trip, so read on to learn more in my guide to visiting the Falkland Islands.

In this guide for travellers, you’ll find the information needed for planning a visit to the Falkland Islands, including the best things to do, with options for different seasons, background on the history and ecology of the islands, and detailed travel information. If you can’t find what you need to know about visiting the Falkland Islands, post your question in the comments, and I’ll do my best to answer it and update this post!

A Comprehensive Guide to Visiting the Falkland Islands

Background Information

The Falkland Islands are a self-governing Overseas Territory of the United Kingdom, meaning they determine their own internal matters while the UK has responsibility for defence and foreign policy. Falkland Islanders are British Citizens. The islands are located in the South Atlantic just 700km (435 miles) north of Antarctica, and around 500km (310 miles) from their nearest landfall in Argentina.

Settlements | Stanley (formerly known as Port Stanley) is the capital of the Falkland Islands, and was elevated to city status in 2022 as part of the Platinum Jubilee honours. The only other settlement of similar size is MPC, the Mount Pleasant Complex military station surrounding the airport, also on East Falkland. Areas outside Stanley are known as Camp, with small farm settlements at Goose Green and Darwin on East Falkland island, Port Howard and Fox Bay on West Falkland, and on the outer islands.

Population | Only around 3,500 people live in the Falkland Islands, mostly in and around Stanley, with around 350 people in Camp and on the outer islands. Around 1,000 or so are stationed at the Mount Pleasant military complex at any time, with many rotating thorough deployments from the UK. Most residents are Falkland Islanders of British descent, and there are also significant populations from the UK, Saint Helena, Chile, New Zealand, the Philippines, and Zimbabwe. The main industries are fishing and farming, and around a quarter of the population works for the Falkland Islands Government.

Visitors | Around 60,000 people visit the Falkland Islands each year, the vast majority as part of a cruise voyage. Only around 10% of visitors travel independently, due to the off-the-beaten-track location and expense of travel to the islands.

Languages | The official language of the Falkland Islands is English, with a distinctive local accent. You hear other languages spoken by resident communities including Chilean Spanish, Saint Helenian English, Filipino Tagalog, and Zimbabwean Shona.

Currency | The Falkland Island Pound (FKP) is the official currency and is pegged to British Pounds Sterling (GBP), and US dollars may also be accepted as payment. Most businesses take virtual payment forms like Visa, Mastercard, and even Apple Pay or Google Pay.

Connection | The local internet provider is called Sure, and is super expensive and only available in a few hotspot locations. Your accommodation may have its own hotspot, but the connection is often patchy. Costs are around £15 for a 12-hour data card or £25 for a 24-hour card. Consider your visit as an opportunity to disconnect from social media for a while.

Did you Know? | These islands are occasionally referred to as Islas Malvinas or Las Malvinas in Spanish, derived from the French name Îles Malouines given by the explorer Louis-Antoine de Bourgainville who founded the first settlement on the island, named after his hometown of St Malo in Brittany. You won’t hear the name said locally however, due to the controversial territorial claim to the islands made by Argentina which erupted into open conflict in 1982. In a recent referendum on nationality, over 98% of the residents voted to remain a British Overseas Territory.

Visiting the Falkland Islands

The Falkland Islands are a long way from everywhere, and their relative isolation in the South Atlantic is one of the big attractions for those who can set aside the time, and the money, to get here. Visitors will find a breathtaking landscape of silver sand beaches lapped by gin-clear water, rocky crags looming over sweeping landscapes, and a range of outstanding wildlife encounters, from charismatic penguins and distinguished albatrosses to thrilling orcas and soul-stirring sei whales. It’s not easy or cheap to get to the Falkland Islands, but if you’re planning a South American or Antarctic itinerary, they make a wonderful addition. After all, when are you next likely to be in the neighbourhood?

How to get to the Falkland Islands

The vast majority of visitors to the Falklands arrive onboard a cruise ship, usually departing from Ushuaia, at the southernmost tip of Argentina, or Montevideo, Uruguay, passing through on a South American itinerary or a once-in-a-lifetime voyage to Antarctica and South Georgia. There are usually a couple of sea days onboard before reaching Stanley.

However, if you want to stay longer and travel independently in the Falklands, there are a couple of options for flights to the islands, and they can be part of a South American travel itinerary.

The most direct route from northern Europe is the twice-weekly Falklands Airbridge service operated by the UK Ministry of Defence from RAF Brize Norton in Oxfordshire, England. A limited number of seats are available for civilians on each flight, though at certain times of year, the service may be fully subscribed with young Falkland Islanders travelling to school and university in the UK, and staff from the British Antarctic Survey transiting through Stanley on their way South. Bookings are made through the Falkland Islands Government Office, and return fares are currently listed at £2,222.00.

The alternative is to fly with LATAM Airlines from Santiago or Punta Arenas in Chile. The flight departs once a week on a Saturday, taking around 5-6 hours from Santiago, and just over 2 hours from Punta Arenas. Once a month the service also calls by Rio Gallegos in Argentina. Santiago is well connected to routes from Europe, North America, and the Pacific region.

All international flights arrive at Mount Pleasant Airport, part of the military complex managed by the UK Ministry of Defence. Bus transfers by Penguin Travel are available from the airport to Stanley, 56km (35 miles) away or around an hour’s drive, but if travelling independently, your accommodation and an airport transfer must be arranged prior to arrival.

Travelling within the Falkland Islands

If you’re visiting on a cruise ship, getting around won’t be a challenge. You’ll land by zodiac close to where you need to be and walk the rest of the way. In Stanley, the ship might go alongside at FIPASS, and from the port, you can walk or take a bus to the centre of town. Your cruise company may also organise day tours from Stanley.

Vehicle hire can be arranged from Stanley Services and Moody Enterprises. Almost all of the vehicles are 4x4s, as outside of Stanley most of the roads are gravel. In some areas of Camp off-road driving skills are essential, and may not be covered in your rental agreement. Rental vehicles may not be permitted to cross on the ferry to West Falkland, mainly due to the lack of roads on the island and a history of people getting bogged.

The Falkland Islands Government Air Service (FIGAS) operates a few Interislander aircraft which connect East and West Falkland and many of the outer islands with daily flights from Stanley Airport. They also offer the opportunity to take a round-robin scenic flight from Stanley.

A vehicle ferry, the Concordia Bay, connects the two largest islands, East Falkland and West Falkland, between New Haven and Port Howard, and every six weeks makes an extended voyage as the supply vessel for the outer islands. You can find schedules and fares here.

Did you Know? | Everything located outside of Stanley is referred to as Camp, including the other sizeable settlements of Fox Bay, Darwin-Goose Green, and Port Howard, from the Spanish word campo, meaning countryside, a throwback to when farms in the islands employed Patagonian gauchos to tend the livestock. Even until the 1980s, horseback was the main way to get around in Camp.

The best time to travel to the Falkland Islands

Most visitors to the Falkland Islands arrive as part of a cruise ship itinerary, either on an expedition voyage taking in Antarctica and South Georgia, as part of a South American tour, or on an ocean crossing that could also call at the off-the-beaten-track islands of St Helena and Tristan da Cunha on the way to Cape Town, South Africa.

With a milder maritime climate than Antarctica, the Falklands has a much longer cruise season, usually starting in the austral spring, around September, and continuing through until April. Temperatures range from an average of around 15°C in the middle of summer, to a low of around -5°C in winter. I spent time there in November, where we experienced everything from bright, breezy days to brief snow showers, then again in March, when we had a week of calm, sunny and warm conditions. Weather conditions are very similar to those experienced in northern Scotland or Denmark.

Early Season (September to November)

Spring is the best time for watching wildlife, as the islands will be bustling with activity. Elephant seals and sealions will be returning to breeding beaches and competing for territory. Birds, like penguins and albatrosses, will be re-establishing their pair bonds, constructing and repairing nests, and making their courtship displays before mating begins in earnest. I found when the wind is gentle, it’s also heavenly-scented with the gorse flowers and Christmas bush blossom which bloom at this part of the season.

Mid-Season (December and January)

These are often the best months to visit, as the days are longer and conditions drier and warmer, making it better for exploring ashore and heading out on hikes. The sea might still feel quite refreshing for a swim, but the beaches are at their best and you’re likely to catch glimpses of hatching chicks at penguin colonies. There’s also plenty of events held around Christmas and New Year, like the Stanley Races and sheep-shearing demonstrations.

Late Season (February to April)

The end of the summer brings different wildlife experiences as breeding birds begin to fledge and leave their nesting colonies, taking to the seas and skies. Late summer and early autumn is the time to scan the seas around the islands, as the number of whales and dolphins spotted close to shore reaches its peak.

Five Unforgettable Locations to visit in the Falkland Islands

The main attractions for visitors to the Falkland Islands are the wildlife havens and the wild landscapes, and the opportunity to get away from it all. Travelling in the islands necessitates a bit of self-reliance, as there’s not always information on what to see or do available in the lodges, and internet access is limited and expensive or non-existent. Research before you travel, and make a plan of places you want to visit and things that you’d like to do.

One of the real pleasures of travel within the islands, and something that’s a rare experience elsewhere, is getting to know everyone you encounter by name. Friendliness and hospitality are the way of life here, and don’t be surprised to know the names of your hosts, drivers, pilots, cooks and servers, even the sheep shearers out in Camp, and their connection to everyone else you might have encountered. The connections you’ll make are part of the charm of the islands.

If you’re visiting as part of a cruise, the itinerary will be determined by the expedition leader on your voyage, but it’s still worth doing your research to make the most of the experience.

Stanley | The newest city in the British Overseas Territories since 2022, Stanley is home to most of the island’s population. Colourful wooden houses with corrugated metal roofs lining the south side of a natural harbour give it a Shetlandic look, and the red postbox and telephone boxes and Union flags leave you in no doubt of the identity of Kelpers, as locals are known. The Falkland Islands Museum at the Historic Dockyard is comprehensive, and will easily occupy a few hours, and the Tourist Office can help you book guided tours. There are several good restaurants and cafés in town, a craft brewery and gin distillery, and the Victory Bar has a famous reputation. The wildlife reserve at Gypsy Cove and the battlefield site at Mount Tumbledown are both within walking distance of town, and you can check out my guide to Stanley for more ideas.

Saunders Island | Saunders is the location of the first British settlement in the Falklands, Port Egmont, and you can still see the remains of buildings dating back to 1765, but the main attractions for visitors are the wildlife sites at The Rookery and The Neck, where it’s possible to get close views of five species of penguins and nesting black-browed albatrosses. The island is an internationally recognised Important Bird Area. The Neck is a classic Falkland view, a sweeping isthmus lined with white sand beaches backed by rounded hills and bog. Commerson’s and dusky dolphins can be seen playing in the surf, and later in the season, southern right whales will hang out in the bay. Elephant seals use the beach at Elephant Point for breeding early in the season, and are often spotted hanging out on the shore. Visitor accommodation is available in Saunders Island Settlement, and in rustic cabins at The Rookery and The Neck. Find out more here.

Carcass Island | The name comes from HMS Carcass, the ship which originally surveyed the island back in 1766, and doesn’t quite seem to fit with the white sand beaches and tropical blue water. Though it has been a working sheep station for over a century, careful management has preserved large areas of native tussac grass, which along with the rodent-free status of the island, makes it a haven for songbirds, including the endemic Cobb’s wren. Carcass is also an internationally recognised Important Bird Area. The hike along the island from the settlement to Leopard Beach is a highlight; basking elephant seals and southern sea lions can be spotted on the shore, and sei whales, Peale’s and Commerson’s dolphins can be seen in the waters off the island. Visitor accommodation is available at Carcass Island House, a restored farmhouse on Port Patterson bay. Find out more here.

Fox Bay| Fox Bay, on West Falkland, is the largest settlement outside of Stanley and the location of the only other Post Office on the islands, but don’t expect anything comparable in size. The farming settlement is divided into Fox Bay East and West, each with around 12 residents, on either side of a wide bay. Coast Ridge Farm in Fox Bay East has several beautiful walking routes, some short walks close to the settlement, and longer routes taking in the rugged East Head, the Coast Ridge with its rockhopper penguin colony, and stunning Carcass Bay. Farmers Keith and Nuala Knight give tours of the farm and wool shed outside of the shearing season, and visitors can watch the shearing work in the spring and summer. Visitor accommodation is available at Coast Ridge Farm and Cottage in Fox Bay East and Black Shanty House in Fox Bay West.

West Point Island | I think this is one of my favourite places in the Falklands, a beautiful island and working sheep station off the northwest corner of West Falkland. The only way to reach West Point is on a cruise voyage or by hitching a lift on a boat, as the challenging airstrip is only used in emergencies. There’s no tourist accommodation on the island, so most visitors stay on nearby Carcass Island and take a day trip across. From the settlement, a landrover track leads over the hill to a seabird colony on steep cliffs known as the Devil’s Nose, home to thousands of black-browed albatrosses and southern rockhopper penguins. West Point, along with nearby skerries and sea stacks, is an internationally recognised Important Bird Area, and cruising under the cliffs reveals the true scale of the population. The island’s caretakers, Theis and Kicki, keep the Falklands tradition of smoko, serving freshly baked cakes and cups of tea for visitors in the beautiful garden of the old farmhouse; dating from 1880, it is one of the oldest continuously occupied buildings in the archipelago.

Accommodation in places in Camp and on the outer islands may seem initially seem expensive, but do bear in mind that you’re not just paying for a bed in a room. Included in the cost will be transfers to and from the airfield, and taxis around the settlement or island, plus good meals with friendly company, coffee and chat at smoko time, and often a personal tour guide for the time of your stay. You can’t put a price on becoming part of the community.

Not-to-be-missed Experiences in the Falkland Islands

A visit to the Falkland Islands is an opportunity to see and do a wide variety of things in an off-the-beaten track destination, but there’s a few highlights to make sure to experience while you’re there. These are five things to look out for:

Penguin Encounters | The Falkland Islands are one of the best places in the world to see penguins, and it’s one of the biggest draws for visitors. Around one million penguins nest in the islands through the austral summer, and there’s a possible five species to encounter; Magellanic, known locally as jackass penguins for their distinctive braying call; regal-looking King penguins; raucous Gentoos, charismatic Southern Rockhoppers, and the elusive Macaroni, found only in a few locations across the islands.

Learn about Military History | I’m not old enough (just!) to remember the Falklands War, but the events that took place over 74 days between March and July 1982 on a far-flung archipelago in the South Atlantic played out on evening news reports and in the daily papers around the world, and for many are the reason why some of the local names are so familiar. The Falkland Islands Museum in Stanley is the best starting point to unravel stories of the conflict, while walking the ground on a battlefield tour reveals a greater insight, including seeing abandoned equipment and the impact craters of artillery fire. Over 900 people lost their lives, the majority young Argentine conscripts, and a visit to the war cemeteries in places like San Carlos and Darwin, and to memorials for ships like the Atlantic Conveyor, Sir Galahad, and Sir Tristram, are a poignant reminder.

Walking and Hiking | The Falkland Islands have superb walking and hiking opportunities, often with very few other people around to intrude on the feeling of remote wildness or chance to get close to wildlife. Options include leisurely beach walks, long hikes to phenomenal wildlife-watching locations, and mountainous hikes in stunning landscapes. Well-known mountain names from the 1982 conflict, Tumbledown, Harriet, Longdon, Two Sisters, and Wireless Ridge, are all easily accessible from Stanley and make interesting hill walks, occasionally with easy scrambles to summit cairns for an additional challenge.

Land Rover Spotting | It’s often said that the Falkland Islands are the spiritual home of the Land Rover Defender, a distinctive-looking vehicle with a go-anywhere workhorse reputation. Their rugged capability off-road and ability to be repaired with just basic equipment made them indispensable around Camp, and the locals have grown to love them. Look out for Land Rovers everywhere around Stanley; used as emergency vehicles by the Police, Fire Service, and as an ambulance; as official Government transport; for transporting farm supplies; and as everyday runarounds and pimped-up projects.

Island Escapes | When the hustle and bustle(!) of Stanley gets too much, get away from it all with a trip to stay in a tourist lodge on one of the outer islands, like Saunders or Carcass, or a farmstay on West Falkland. The journey starts with a FIGAS flight in a small plane to a grassy airstrip, a superb way to see more of the islands on its own, often followed by a Land Rover ride to your accommodation with your hosts as tour guides. The wild, white sand beaches, rocky headlands, and grassy camps will be yours to explore, or you can get to know the local community around the farm and join folk for a traditional smoko break.

The Falkland Islands Wildlife Big Five

The archipelago of the Falkland Islands is an island refuge in the wild Southern Ocean, with a distinctive biodiversity that reflects that of Patagonia and Antarctica, with species uncommon elsewhere in the world. For most visitors, their Falkland experience centres around exceptional wildlife encounters. These are the top five species to look out for:

King Penguin | The largest penguin species found in the Falkland Islands, King penguins are a real highlight. These islands are the northern edge of their circumpolar sub-Antarctic breeding range, and the best place to see them is the colony at Volunteer Point, home to around 1,000 pairs during the breeding season.

Orca | Around 20 species of cetacean have been recorded in Falklands waters, with nine species regularly seen around the islands. But the unmistakable black and white appearance and tall dorsal fin of the Orca or Killer Whale spotted in the surf off the island’s beaches always creates a buzz. The best places to spot Orcas are Sea Lion Island and Surf Bay, just outside Stanley.

Elephant Seal | The Southern Elephant Seal is the largest member of the seal family, with adult beachmaster males weighing up to 3,700kg and reaching 4.5 to 5 metres in length, around 5 times larger than the females. They can spend quite a lot of time ashore on their breeding beaches. The best places to see Elephant Seals is Sea Lion Island, where the population is part of a long-term research project, and Carcass Island.

Southern Right Whale | These distinctive-looking whales, with large white callosities around their head, were hunted to the brink in the past, but numbers have increased steadily since the cessation of whaling. They are found in oceanic waters around the Falklands year-round but come near shore in winter to socialise and mate. Read about the Southern Right Whale tracking project here.

Striated Caracara | The Falkland Islands are home to around 230 species of bird, and while enormous seabird colonies around the coast are a big attraction for visitors, the other avian inhabitants of the island are not lacking in character. Known locally as a Johnny Rook, these rare birds are found across the Falklands and have an inquisitive nature that guarantees a memorable encounter.

Visa Requirements

British citizens do not need a visa to enter the Falkland Islands, and neither does anyone arriving on a cruise ship and participating in shore excursions. If you plan to arrive by air, or spend a longer time in the islands you may need to apply for a visa if you are not from a country covered by the Falklands’ via exemption scheme. More information and a list of exempt countries can be found on the Falklands Tourist Board website.

The Falklands have strict biosecurity regulations to ensure their environment is protected. Any outdoor equipment and hiking boots you bring should be checked and cleaned.

Health and Wellbeing

If you’re reaching the Falkland Islands on a ship, you may encounter rough conditions in the Southern Ocean. Even experienced sailors may take a few days to get used to the feel of a new vessel, and feel dodgy for the first day or so (hello, this is me). Take your preferred sea-sickness treatment with you, and ensure you have an adequate supply. Some medications may not be readily available once you’re on the road, though the ship’s doctor will always have a supply of something to help with the symptoms, and can access stronger medication for extreme cases.

On board a cruise ship you’ll be sharing space with people from around the world, which increases the risk of infections. Take the same precautions you would at home to minimise risk, such as using hand sanitiser frequently, and ensure that your essential vaccines are up to date before departure. These would be things such as: MMR (measles, mumps and rubella); diphtheria; tetanus; polio; Covid-19, and seasonal flu; plus any additional travel vaccines for regions you may have travelled through prior to your voyage.

The weather in the Falkland Islands is comparable to what you might expect in Scotland, the southern part of Scandinavia, and Patagonia, and you should dress accordingly. Wearing several thin layers is key to regulating your body temperature depending on exertion, and a waterproof outer layer can also be the best protection from the wind, which in the Falkland Islands, can be relentless.

The atmosphere in the region is ozone-depleted, and intense sunrays can penetrate through more easily, even on overcast days. High-factor sunblock (F30 or higher) should be applied regularly to avoid sunburn, and sunglasses with adequate UV protection worn whenever you’re outside, even when it’s cloudy.

Most of the wildlife you’ll encounter poses no risk, however, sea lions and fur seals can give a nasty bite and move faster than you may anticipate. At times they can be aggressive as they try to defend their territories, and moving away from visitors can bring them into conflict with each other. When you’re in an area where they are found, you’ll need to be extra vigilant.

A Packing List for the Falkland Islands

Selecting the right clothing and equipment is one of the most important parts of travel preparation. If you’re travelling to the Falkland Islands on a cruise vessel, many tour operators provide you with warm and waterproof outer layers, including jackets, trousers, and gumboots, so be sure to check what’s included when you book.

As these are usually geared for voyages taking in Antarctica and South Georgia, you may find them too much for the Falkland Islands, so think about taking a lightweight waterproof hardshell jacket and trousers, and hiking boots, especially if you plan on any walking in camp. Layers are key for coping with variable weather, but it’s not that cold and you can skip the super thermal baselayer (unless you’re carrying on to Antarctica).

Your packing list should include:

• Waterproof jacket and waterproof trousers
• Hiking boots
• Down jacket or fleece warm layer
• Warm hat
• Buff / toob neck gaiter
• Gloves
• Hiking trousers x1
• Hoodie, fleece or wool sweater mid layers x1
• Long-sleeve top or shirt x1
• T shirts x3
• Merino wool hiking socks x5
• Sunglasses x1

Other important items to think about:

• Camera, and a selection of lenses
• Spare batteries
• Waterproof cases for electronics
• Journal and a sketchbook
• Binoculars and a wildlife guide. I recommend this one from Falklands Conservation.
• Smartphone

Top Travel Trips for the Falkland Islands

• The most spectacular wildlife behaviour is usually seen early in the season, as fur seals and elephant seals battle to become beachmasters. However, later is often better for whale watching, including spotting rare Southern Right Whales close to shore.
• Don’t forget seasickness remedies if visiting by ship. Southern Ocean sailing can mean large swells which may leave all but the most experienced seafarers feeling rough. Your sea days are opportunities for wildlife watching or listening to presentations from experts, and you don’t want to spend all that time cooped up in a cabin.
• Invest in good photography equipment or look at renting gear, especially a zoom lens, and learn how to use it to best effect. You’ll want to take memorable photos, though that being said, don’t live through a lens and remember to put your camera down once in a while to engage all your senses.
• Make an effort to learn about the events of the 1982 conflict, as it had a significant impact in shaping the psyche of the local population, and in their relationship with both the UK and Argentina. The Falklands Museum in Stanley is a good place to start, as are books like The Battle for the Falklands by Max Hastings, One Hundred Days by Sandy Woodward, and Argentine Fight for the Falklands by Martin Middlebrook.
• Get a good travel insurance policy. The Falkland Islands can be considered a remote location, and medical provision is limited, so take out a policy which includes emergency evacuation cover. There’s the possibility a cruise ship may have to divert for someone else’s emergency; I know of a few which had to alter plans to deal with medical evacuations and rescue assistances during my seasons in South Georgia and Antarctica.
• Prepare to embrace the unpredictability of the experience; chance wildlife encounters and changing weather conditions can lead to last minute changes to itineraries, but could also create that unforgettable highlight of your whole trip.

Read my other posts about the Falkland Islands and South Georgia here.

I hope you enjoyed reading this guide to the Falkland Islands. If you have any questions, or you’ve already visited, leave me a message in the comments below.

If you’ve really enjoyed my guides, you can buy me a virtual coffee here.

Pin my guide to the Falkland Islands for later.

Please note that some links on this blog are affiliate links, and if you choose to purchase through these links I may receive a small commission* at no additional cost to you. Using these links directly supports These Vagabond Shoes as an independent travel blog, and allows me to create guides to help you travel better.

*Maybe enough for a coffee. Not enough for a yacht.

I travelled to the Falkland Islands on route to a posting in South Georgia, for the South Georgia Heritage Trust. Travel to and from the Falkland Islands and accommodation in Stanley was provided by my employer in partnership with the Government of South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands, and some activities were provided for me by the Falkland Islands Tourist Board. I’ve since returned on several occasions in other roles and funded other activities by myself. All opinions are my own.

This instalment of Armchair Travel brings you a selection of the best reads that capture the arresting beauty of arid landscapes and the unique challenges for those who live in or travel through them. Including riveting accounts of adventures, classic travelogues, and fictional works that bring deserts to life, there’s something for all interests.

Read on to find inspiration for planning your next travel adventure, or just explore the desert sands without leaving the comfort of home.

Arabian Sands – Wilfred Thesiger

Written in the 1950s , this is an account of the five years Thesiger spent with nomadic Bedouin camel herders crossing and re-crossing the Rub al Khali, the desert known in English as the Empty Quarter, a huge part of what is now Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates. With the subsequent discovery and extraction of oil in the region, this is a rich document of a vanished world, a record of a way of life on the cusp of change recorded in lyrical prose. Thesiger was one of the last of the old-school explorers, and his writing also reflects the thrill of reaching places where few have been before, remote from the reaches of the modern world, as well as relishing the hardships and privations of the undertaking. A classic of travel writing. Find it here.

Traversa – Fran Sandham

Recent adventurers face a challenge their historic precedents never did, a greater awareness and knowledge of the more remote regions of the globe mean there’s nowhere “new” for them to explore, or more importantly to entertain those at home with their tales on their return. Sandham embarks on a 5,000km solo trek from the Skeleton Coast of Namibia across southern Africa to the Indian Ocean coast of Tanzania, and on to Zanzibar, recounting his experiences with self-deprecating humour as he provides historical context to the route. Refreshingly he also interrogates the futility and frivolousness of his endeavours and acknowledges the fears that the whole sweat-drenched, blistering, sun-baked venture may have been a perfect waste of time. Get it here.

The Southern Gates of Arabia: A Journey in the Hadhramaut – Freya Stark

In 1934 Stark set out from Aden to follow the ancient frankincense routes of the Hradhramaut Valley on the edge of the Empty Quarter, aiming to be the first westerner to locate the lost city of Shabwa, said to be the citadel of the fabled Queen of Sheba. Stark was already a noted explorer, having undertaken several challenging treks in what is now Syria, Lebanon and Iran, receiving recognition for her writings from the Royal Geographical Society, and fluent in Arabic, and captures the essence of the time and place in superb detail. This book is the first of three written about her time spent in Arabia, and deeply immersed in the culture and history of the region. Buy it here.

Skeletons on the Zahara – Dean King

The wreck of the US brig Constitution on the desolate Atlantic coast of the Sahara in 1815 is just the starting point for this harrowing true tale of disaster and survival, blending accounts from survivors with the author’s experience retracing the journey of the crew after their capture by nomads. That crew members survived the deprivations of the desert hinged very much on the character of the ship’s captain, James Riley, and how his quick-thinking courage and tenacity enabled the endurance of the crew through extremes of starvation and dehydration which pushed them to their physical and mental limits. Find it here.

Desert Solitaire – Edward Abbey

Written over the seasons Abbey spent as a ranger in Arches National Park in Utah in the 1960s, this is a passionate and poetic reflection on finding nature, solitude and wilderness in the American southwest against the encroaching presence of humanity, which went on to be a key text in the environmental movement, much like Rachel Carson’s Silent Spring. He captures the outstanding beauty of the desert and the terrifying indifference shown by nature which stokes our deepest fears, with the unfiltered range of personal reactions of a conservationist. However, Abbey as a person is hard to like, veering from enraptured and fervent to salty and cantankerous, a contrarian driven in equal parts by heartfelt emotion and anger, which will polarise readers of this book. Find it here.

Wilderness is not a luxury but a necessity of the human spirit, and as vital to our lives as water and good bread. A civilization which destroys what little remains of the wild, the spare, the original, is cutting itself off from its origins and betraying the principle of civilization itself.

Edward Abbey, Desert Solitaire

Desert Flower – Waris Dirie

Dirie is a remarkable individual, and this short autobiography is an insight into the nomadic Somali culture in which she was raised. She writes of the closeness to nature in her childhood, of the hardships and beauty of life on the edge of the desert, and talks candidly of the experiences of sexual assault and FGM that shaped her young life. Barely in her teens, she escapes an arranged marriage to an older man, fleeing alone across the desert to Mogadishu, from where, illiterate and destitute, she makes her way to London. Scouted by a fashion photographer, her life takes a new route, via the catwalks of the world, to an appointment as a special ambassador to the UN. The second part of Dirie’s autobiography, Desert Dawn, details her return to Somalia in the late 1990s, a failed state wracked by civil war, to reunite with her family 20 years after her escape. Get it here.

Dune – Frank Herbert

Yes, it’s a work of science fiction set on a distant planet in the far future, and an epic one at that, but the setting of the desert world of Arrakis is fearsomely realised. The climate is terrifyingly hostile, water so nightmarishly scarce that all moisture expelled from the body is captured and recycled. But the depths of the desert must be navigated to extract an essential resource, spice, taking characters into the realms of monstrous creatures and an indigenous culture for which Herbert draws heavily on depictions of the Bedouin by Lawrence and Thesiger. Buy it here.

Come, Tell Me How You Live – Agatha Christie Mallgowan

Of course, you’ll recognise the familiar first names of the author, well known for her masterful locked room murder mysteries, but this is a memoir of Christie’s time living in northern Syria in the 1930s. Her second husband, Max Mallgowan, led archaeological expeditions on behalf of the British Museum in the region between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers, ancient Mesopotamia, and Christie joined him on excavations, documenting digs and cataloguing artefacts. The writing is light and charming, and though some views are very much of the colonial era, it gives an insight into expedition life that’s filled with appreciation for people both present and past. Get it here.

Tracks – Robyn Davidson

In 1977, Davidson undertook a remarkable near solo 1,700 mile trek across the deserts of Western Australia, from Alice Springs to the ocean, accompanied by four camels and a dog, and joined at times by Mr Eddie, an elder of the Pitjantjatjara people, and periodically by National Geographic photographer Nick Smolan. The first part of the book details the preparation and learning process Davidson throws herself into after her arrival in Alice, and her experience of the macho Outback culture she finds herself in. The remainder covers the expedition and her time with the indigenous people of the desert; descriptions of the natural environment she moves through, the relationship she has with the camels, and her personal conflict at having to share her undertaking with an audience. Find it here.

The lunatic idea was, basically, to get myself the requisite number of wild camels from the bust and train them to carry my gear, then walk into and about the central desert area.

Robyn Davidson, Tracks

Wind, Sand and Stars – Antoine de Saint-Exupéry

Saint-Exupéry is best known as the author of The Little Prince (Le Petit Prince), a set text familiar to many students of French, but he was also a pioneer of aviation, flying airmail routes between Europe, North Africa and South America in the 1920s and 30s. Whilst attempting to set a record for a flight from Paris to Saigon, he and his navigator crash in the Sahara, surviving the impact and facing a drawn-out death from dehydration while lost in a sea of sand. This slim book recounts his experience, and meditates on the human condition, combining powerful, lyrical storytelling with observations on love, beauty, adventure, life and death. In my opinion, this is as near perfect as a book can be. Get it here.

Do you dream of visiting the desert? Which books with a desert setting would you recommend to me?

Did this post capture your imagination? Why not pin it for later?

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through my link, I will make a small commission* at no additional cost to you. These help me to continue to run this site, providing tips and advice, and sharing stories from my adventures. Thank you for supporting me.

*Maybe enough for a coffee.  Not enough for a yacht.