The Easter Rabbit does not hippety-hop down the bunny trail for people in Spain so the godparents tote the load.  Godparents rank high on the Easter priority list as they bring  gifts to the children.

Chocolate Mona for People In Spain

To add to the Easter celebration, or Semanta Santa, schools close for a week.  Few people in Northern Spain attend church these days.  It is also the custom for families to gather for tapas or a light meal on Easter Monday.

In Catalunya, there are two traditional gifts that Godparents buy.   Elaborate cakes called monas, which are made of chocolate, can be huge.  Some are pirate ships or castles.  Other themes exhibited in the bakery windows are Mickey Mouse, Spiderman, fat chocolate eggs, motor cycles, and Obama images.

Easter - People in Spain

Flimsy, woven palm designs, called palmas, are you guessed it,  made of palm fronds.   Pale, beige palm designs can be as long as six feet and are usually bought at a florist or outdoor market.    Sometimes  you see these fronds twisted through balcony railings for weeks after Easter.  Chocolate cake or a palm thingy?  I know what Regina and I would choose.

An Old Kind of Easter Parade: Holding candles, thousands of people  line the streets in many cities in Spain to watch Semana Santa processions.  Especially elaborate in Southern Spain,  these Easter processions celebrate the death and rebirth of Christ.

Easter In Spain

I have seen grandstands  and white plastic chairs set up in Seville along the streets for this special event, many of which are for sale.    Hotels fill months in advance.

Holy Figures: History in Spain is played out  with centuries old rituals as holy figures are carried to cathedrals by men in brotherhood societies.   These coastalers wear shoulder pads to carry the heavy, ancient wooden figures which are dressed in brocades and silks.  On lookers view silently and weep;  I am assuming with penitence.  Some processions continue through the night.  I have watched with awe and frankly find the whole thing weird and without joy.  Ok, Christ died, and he had many good lessons.  Why not emphasize the positive stuff?

Fashionistas: Men,  the nazarenos, wear black, white or purple robes with tall pointed hoods and slits for eyes – a fashion plate for the Klan.  Eerie yet mesmerizing, something ancient is tapped inside of me at the sight of them.  Garments are  richly embroidered with crosses and other religious symbols.   They walk barefoot to slow, penetrating sounds of drums and coronets.  Hoods are taken off on Sunday to represent that Christ has risen.

Rain Dates: If it rains, the processions are canceled and no rain date in rescheduled.  Seville, Toledo, Malaga, and Granada are cities with well known processions.  Your Scoopettes like strange stuff.  We find many Semanta Santa events wonderfully odd and another reason why we love living in Spain.

Spring in Spain, Festivals in Spain 2010

By Regina Winkle-Bryan

Spring is on its way, and though as I write this we are experiencing a torrential downpour in Barcelona, the weather in Spain is sure to improve soon, beckoning folks out of their winter hibernation and into the streets.

March is a busy month in Spain. Semana Santa or Easter Holy Week is at the end of the month, and there are plenty of other reasons to celebrate, too. Here are the Scoop’s faves:

You don’t want to miss…

Las Fallas – Pyromaniac Fire Fest!

On now until the 19 of March 2010

Head to Valencia to feel the heat. Artists spend lots of time creating beautiful statues from paper and paint and then burn them in a pyro-fest like no other. This is one of the weirdest, noisiest and most fabulous festivals in Spain. You will be impressed, but bring your earplugs!

More here:  http://www.fallasvalencia.es/

Valencia and Las Fallas - Burn Baby Burn!!!

Easter or Semana Santa in Sevilla

From the 26th of March until the 5th of April 2010

The devout gather along with those who haven’t stepped into a church in years to view processions and burn incense. This is one of the most important religious festivals in Spain. Whether you are a believer or not, the Semana Santa processions are worth checking out. Be warned, people book months in advance to get hotel rooms in Sevilla over Easter. Expect crowds. Expect God.

More: http://www.semana-santa-sevilla.com/

Mallorca Island, Spain - Classic Car Rally March 2010

Classic Car Rally in Mallorca – Vi Rally Clasico Isla Mallorca

25 to the 27th of March 2010

Classic car fans gather to admire each others hubcaps. This rally is just another fun reason to jump on a plane to one of Spain’s most beautiful islands, Mallorca.

More: http://www.rallyislamallorca.com/index.aspx?idi=ing

Hotels on Mallorca here.

Add to our list! What’s your favorite Spring Fling?

Yin Yoga and Reiki in Spain 2010

Spain is famous for its religious processions come Easter time, or Semana Santa. If you’re not into the Catholic party, then consider a yoga retreat in the countryside of NE Spain. Combining Yin Yoga and Reiki, this retreat is bilingual and sure to be a rich experience. The 4-day retreat is a steal at just 350 Euros per person, including accommodations and meals.

Easter is coming up, so if you are interested contact the flexible and knowledgeable Jose at the following!

Jose de Groot (www.yogajosedegroot.blogspot.com)

Want more tips on Yoga in Spain? Write us an email…we’ve got the Scoop!

WHEN? Flamenco stirs the soul and your soul has several options for this rich, traditional Spanish music.   The fifth annual de Cajon Flamenco Festival will tap, twirl and strum until April 15, 2010.  Plan to stay for several performances.

Music In Barcelona

WHAT IS IT? de Cajon, the name of the Festival, means box.  This is a wooden percussion instrument, box shaped,  that a musician sits on and plays with his/her hands.   Originally pirouetting up from Andalucia, flamenco was the sound of a stick with a lone, single voice.  Modern flamenco has several sounds:  dance, guitar, percussion, and voice.    Performers are diverse in age, often older.  The de Cajon Flamenco Festival will feature an electic mix of traditional deep, scratchy voiced cante jondo meaning ‘deep song,’  to hip hop fusion.   All this is accompanied by complex hand clapping that I can’t begin to wrap around my brain.  Often, the music is so deeply emotional, I get tears.  Women wear flowers in their sleek hair, ruffly dresses with which they flip and flirt.  Men are dressed in black.  A red guitar often makes the scene.

WHERE? For flamenco music in Barcelona, performances will be held in several venues including the Palau de la Musica, one of the richest examples of Art Nouveau architecture in the city.  This passionate, sexy music is subtle but not subtle.  It will grab your heart.  A pause.  A ballet with the fingers and sideways glance.  A provocative tilt of the head.  It is sweet and it is raw.  Move over MTV.  I will be a flamenco dancer in my next life.   www.theproject.es

It is the same every time. Friends arrive to visit me in Barcelona and I ask them what they’d like to see. ‘We’d love to check out some flamenco!,‘ they reply, and I shake my head a slow ‘No’ in response, watching them look crestfallen. Barcelona is about a lot of things – flamenco is not one of them.

Flamenco in Spain, 2010

The scoop on good flamenco is:  go south, or at least get out of Catalunya. There are fabulous flamenco fests all over Spain all year long. For a complete list of some of the best flamenco festivals of 2010, check with flamencofestival.info, which lists shows by region.

This month in Jerez, a city in the south of Spain, the 14th Festival de Jerez will bring together some talented guitarists, dancers and singers. The festival goes from late Feb to mid March, and tickets to these popular shows range from 17 to 30 Euros. If you are in the south of Spain during this festival, you will not want to miss this opportunity to see some truly passionate music. Ole!

More:

Festival de Jerez

Feb 27 – March 13 2010

Web on festival

Web on Flamenco in general:

http://www.flamencofestival.info/

We want your scoop. Been to a must-see flamenco event? Tell us about it.

Photo credit www.regwb.com

Yoga and Reiki Workshop in Barcelona

Both Nancy and I try to stay flexible in mind, body and spirit. If you are also a yoga fan living in or traveling through Barcelona, consider signing up for one of Jose de Goot’s Yoga-Reiki workshops held once a month.

At the end of this month, the yoga workshop will be focused on the hips and legs. Basically, while students are in yoga poses, Reiki is performed on them, resulting in what should be an intense and very therapeutic experience.

More:

Feb 28th, from 5 to 8:30pm

At Kannon Gyo in Barcelona’s Borne area: calle Agullers 18, Barcelona

Cost 55 Euros

Space is limited!

For more on this see Jose’s Blog here: http://www.yogajosedegroot.blogspot.com/

Soft lighting.  Good drinks.  Music.  Sofas for snuggling close.  The Spain Scoop recommends two bars  that offer cozy places to celebrate Valentine’s Day in Barcelona as ideal choices in which to whisper sweet words to your love.   Regina and I love going to these bars with our friends.  For very cool books on Spain for a Valentine’s Day Gift, check out ‘Books We Love!’    Let us know how you are spending Valentine’s Day.

Art Nouveau Woodwork, Casa Almirall Bar in Barcelona

1.  Casa L’Almirall - Walking through the front door made of swooping bands of wood becomes your intro to this Art Nouveau bar. This style of architecture is called Modernista in Spanish.  Dating from the late 1800’s, original swirling floral hand carved woodwork adorns  L’Almirall.  Leather sofas, a marble bar, painted garlands on the walls, and softly lit wall sconces provide a romantic background to celebrate Valentine’s Day.  A bronze muse from the Univerasal Exhibition of Barcelona, 1888, sits on the bar to greet customers.  No food.  Open till three.  More Valentine’s Day tips……

Where:  Joachim Costa, 33

Metro:  Purple Line, Universitad Plaza or San Antoni. 

2.  Les Gens Que l’Aime  – The name means:   friends that I love.    This is an intimate bar in which to spend time with your date.  To enter,  step down stairs into a lower level that is not a basement but feels more like an oasis from the noisy streets of Barcelona.  The central location is in the Art Nouveau neighborhood, L’Exaimple.  Les Gens sells good martinis.  Red velvet love seats with fringed hanging lights, stained glass, quiet murmuring voices.  No food.  It is pleasant to stroll in the area to take in the beautiful architecture of this barrio. 

Address:  Valencia, 286

Metro:  Passeig de Gracia, Green Line.

Lleida is about an hour and a half from Barcelona by car and about the same by fast train. It is one of the larger cities in Spain’s Catalunya region, and hosts many cultural events throughout the year. The Spain Scoop on Lleida is that this February 22 – 28th, the city will host the international animation festival, Animac. In its 14th year, the festival offers an exciting line up of films which you can check out here.

Lleida makes for a great day trip or a base to explore inland Catalunya, and Animac is all the more reason to visit.

More on Animac: http://www.animac.info/animac/CAT/

Animac International Animation Festival 2010

The scoop on hot waters in Spain is that there are many spas and thermal springs to choose from in Catalonia (NE Spain). Spain’s spas offer scrubs, massages, wraps and sauna options for all budgets, but for something high-end head to Barcelona’s Hotel Arts on the waterfront.

Hotel Arts

Hotel Arts is one of the city’s main offerings for luxury digs and its Mediterranean location offers something that most hotels in the city cannot (aside from the new W Hotel): endless views of the sea. On the 43rd floor of Hotel Arts, providing the best views the hotel can muster, is Six Senses Spa.

Enter Six Senses Spa

Six Senses the company has luxury spas set up in exclusive locations across the globe, and certainly Barcelona is no exception. On my visit to Six Senses in Hotel Arts, I arrived stressed. I was late for my appointment, had too much work to do that day, and arrived thinking, ‘I really don’t have time for this.’

You know you have lost perspective on life when you are complaining about a free massage in a luxury spa. Luckily, I got a reality check as I walked into the low-lit lobby  to be greeted by four smiling faces. ‘Good morning Ms. Winkle-Bryan, would you like a green tea?’ Don’t mind if I do!

Hotel Arts Spa Barcelona

Good service goes a long way in my book and I love attention to detail. Some of the aesthetic details that I think may have been overlooked at Six Senses are made up for with their superb customer service. At a five-star, good service should be a given, but I was so impressed by this at Six Senses that I feel it is worth mentioning.

Hotel Arts is on Barcelona's boardwalk

I was taken to a round massage room, fitted with ceiling lights that changed depending on the mood that the therapist was going for. This was color therapy in action. As usual in spas, meditative flute music played in the background, and I was asked to select a natural essential oil for my massage. I went with orange blossom and lavender. Throughout the massage my therapist would stop, and rub lavender oil just below my nose release its scent and setting my mind at ease.

Water Works Area at Six Senses Spa Barcelona

Twenty minutes into the massage and I was in a different place than I had been coming in. I realized that I had been wound up tighter than  clothesline and that I needed to seek out professional massage and relaxation more often in my life. Who doesn’t? My massage was an hour, and was above average.

Afterwards I was escorted back to the changing rooms, where I slipped into a bathing suit and had some more tea. I took a towel and headed to the top floor to the water works area at Six Senses, which are small but complete. The room is surrounded on three sides by windows and overlooks all of Barcelona, the Mediterranean for miles, and the coastline to the north. The water works area is appointed with a sauna (wet and dry), an ice machine for closing pores and a large jacuzzi with a massage waterfall.

Waterfall Massage at Six Senses

After a good long while staring out ever the sea from the bubbling jacuzzi I felt much refreshed. Besides massage and the water works area, Six senses offers other treatments such as:

Spa Menu Index

Massage Therapies – The Heart of Six Senses

Facial Therapies – Nurturing with Six Senses

Body Therapies – Sense of Renewal

Spa Beauty (Head, Hands and Feet) – Sense of Touch

My complaints about Six Senses are few. However, I will mention that when I went to shower off in the changing rooms, there were a couple of flaws. One: none of the showers had hot water – it this was in November! Two: there were not enough hairdryers and I was rushed along while trying to dry my hair by some impatient spa goer. In a five-star there should be two hairdryers if there are more than two guests in the place. These are small details, but that is what makes luxury: details.

More attention to detail needed in changing rooms

Overall I’d give the experience a 7, and would highly recommend the massage for visitors staying at Hotel Arts or anywhere else in the city.

More:

Book your massage with Six Senses here !

Address:

Marina 19-21, Barcelona

Hotel Arts Web here : http://www.hotelartsbarcelona.com/

* Do you have a spa story for us? Write us at info@thespainscoop.com. Or, would you like us to review your spa? We’d love to. Drop us a line.

1. MADRID FASHION WEEK -  February 18 – 23.  For more events in Spain, join the fashionistas who clamour to get in the door to view 384 manufacturers and 600 brands.  Fall, winter fashions for 2010, 2011 for men and women will be shown.  Cocktail galas.  New designers.  Display fixtures plus fashion shows will have you wish listing for new clothes.  30 euros entry fee.   

2.  “I HAVE A DREAM” EXHIBITION, Sitges. -  The Cultural Delegation of Sitges City Hall organized an exhibition honoring Dr. Martin Luther King.  Opening February 7 and continuing for one month, this show features artists from many countries.  The show has traveled in major cities in the States.  Sitges is location a shell’s throw from Barcelona right on the Mediterranean Sea. 

3.  CANARY ISLANDS FESTIVAL – The Canary Islands are more than beaches, discos, and dramatic landscape.  Classical music including opera will reign on the Islands late January and into February.  A great way to be in the sun and relax with music.

4.  ARCO MADRID INTERNATIONAL CONTEMPORARY ART FAIR -  March 6 – 8.  Over 3,000 artists will take part in 200 galleries and in an exhibition center.  Following the art is an unusual way to get to know Madrid.   Sculpture, photography, paintings, installations, video, etc.  Los Angeles is a theme for the Fair. 

5.  COSMOBELLEZA AND WELLNESS FAIR – Barcelona.  March 6 – 8.  Enjoying strolls by the Mediterranean Sea can add to your relaxation in Barcelona while checking out the Fair.  Hundreds of exhibitors will promote spa, wellness, make up, hair, and many extras in live.

Got a hot date for Valentine’s Day? No? Planning to spend the evening eating bon-bons and cursing love gone wrong?

Well put the breaks on the pity party and head out to this Valentine’s Day concert the 13th of February! Drown your sorrows at the bar on cerveza and ron con coca-cola and then shake your tail feather until the wee hours of the morning to Volpina and The Gangsters of Love.

Who needs a boyfriend when you’ve got music, strong drinks and a room full of attractive Spanish men? Happy Valentine’s!

The Gangsters of Love Valentine's Day - poster thanks to the Gangsters

The Gangsters of Love with Volpina

Sidecar Factory, Placa Reial number 7, Barcelona, Spain

13 Feb 2010, 10pm

(P.S., Valentine’s Day is not a Spanish holiday…but that doesn’t mean its not celebrated).

Music in Barcelona With Purpose - Photo Credit Luz Verde

For More on this event visit: SALA APOLO here

Back from our vacations, Regina, Arthur and I wanted the perfect place for tapas to linger and catch up.  We merged at my favorite neighborhood hang out, Café del Centre.

I love Café del Centre.  Being there makes me feel connected to community.  Food in Barcelona makes everyone feel connected to community.

Owned by the Gimenez family since 1873, this typical Catalan restaurant is unsophisticated charm. It is not hip nor does it pander to the pseudo antique look. The black and white marble floors of Café del Centre are chipped and stained with decades of chair shuffling and red wine spills. The family prepares basic food with kindness and love of tradition.

Gray marble table tops with curvy edges are set on scrolly, black iron bases. My favorite parts of the décor are the hand carved, dark wood, flowery art nouveau benches that line one wall. Frilly, white glass lampshades hang from cloth cords. Large beveled mirrors tarnished with the years and old photos deck the walls.  Jordi Bel,  grandson of the original owners, says the upright pianoin the back of the restaurant can’t be played anymore as the neighbors complain.  The music is the soft murmur of the Catalan language.

Jordi’s Mother, Inez,  cooks Catalan specialties.  She shyly comes out to smile at customers, wiping her hands on her apron, and checks to see if you like the ravenoll mushrooms fresh from the Pyranees.  Choices include boiled leeks stuffed with anchovies. Torradas, a big slice of country style round bread brushed with tomato and olive oil.  Torradas toppings vary with sausage, herring fillets, duck breast, and of course, the Spanish staple, ham. To heck with calories. I am going back for another torrada with creamy Spanish cheese and a glass of white wine.

Lovely Lamps at Cafe del Centro - Barcelona, Spain

WHERE: Carrer Girona, 69

METRO: Yellow Line, Girona

PRICES: A bargain

HOURS: Nine till around midnight. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

WEBSITE: Are you kidding?

We welcome your comments:

Here is the Spain Scoop on some of our faves, both fiction and non-fiction books about Spain in English and castellano.  Write us about your favorite books on Spain.

GUIDE BOOKS:  LONELY PLANET SPAIN.    Lonely Planet authors continue to tell the truth.  Funny, frank, and full of info.  From sleeping in a palace to a hostel, this Guide covers all wallets. 

THE ROUGH GUIDE TO SPAIN – My favorite guide book with unusual photos, honest info, quotes from artists about towns accompanied with little drawings.  Transports you right there-your sofa to Spain. 

LIVING ABROAD IN SPAIN – Nikki Weinstein left New York City to make her home in Spain.  Info on jobs, housing, health, culture, etc.  Some info on visas, jobs, etc. may be dated. Email your Spain Scoop authors for the latest info.   

HISTORIC WALKING GUIDES – MADRID – This book takes you on a journey through centuries of Madrid’s history via a series of  eight walks.  Each is themed from medieval buildings to where artists gathered.  Maps, times and distances included.  To purchases check out Destin World Publishing Co. on line store.

HISTORIC WALKING TOURS – GIBRALTAR – Across the border in Southern Spain is the small British colony of Gibraltar.  The compact size of Gibraltar allows the visitor to see all areas with spectacular scenery along the way.  Eight themed walks are oulined including the Upper Rock Nature Reserve and the history of the Royal Navy.  Visit Destin World Publishing Co.’s on line store. 

HISTORY:  BARCELONA – Robert Huges, writer extraordinaire, writes again with intelligence and wit.  History books usually put me to sleep.  This one is a well researched page turner.  If you don’t want to read cover to cover,  the excellent index will allow you to read in random snatches and have it make sense at the same time.  Enticing read for lovers of Barcelona.

 BARCELONA, THE GREAT ENCHANTRESS – Robert Hughes.  The author has been coming to Barcelona since 1966 and creates a fascinating painting of this Catalan capital.  His commentaries on architecture, people he knows, and people he wants to know like, Wilfred the Hairy, makes it a passionate read.  Today, you could meet Wilfred the Hairy at a singles bar.  No index.  I love a book where I have to look up new words.

HOMAGE TO BARCELONA – Colm Toibin.  As witness to the Franco Era and the heart breaking Civil War, Tolbin writes with authority and passion.  Picasso, Miro, and the boys are covered and their impact on art.  I found the section on the expansion of the city limits of Barcelona in the late 1800’s especially intriguing.  I now live in the Art Nouveau neighborhood of L’Exaimple ( The Expansion),  the “new”  Barcelona beyond it’s medieval City walls.

SPAIN IN MIND – This anthology is a great read for the metro, a cafe, or snuggling in front of your fireplace for armchair travel.  Alice Leccese Powers weaves Wharton, Hemingway, Orwell, etc. in a diverse collection.

A DAY WITH PICASSO – by Susanne Pfleger.  The man, Picasso, got around.  He was born in Spain and there is one of his retrospectives in The Picasso Museum in Barcelona.  Spain influenced his art in politics, bulls, women, women, and in women.  A great read about a great artist. 

http://www.travelerstales.com/links.html - Traveler’s Tales are publishers of stories, wit, and wisdom from travel writers around the world.  My favorite books are the  ‘Best American Series’  which is a collection of travel stories for each year starting in 2000.  Editors include Tim Cahill, Jamaica Kincaid, etc, and my hero Bill Bryson.  Transporting you to different niches on the planet including Spain, you can always be on the move with a Traveler’s Tale book in hand. 

LANGUAGE:  LAROUSSE POCKET  STUDENT GUIDE TO SPANISH-ENGLISH, ENGLISH-SPANISH - Whatever dictionary you buy, make sure it is Spanish-English, English-Spanish.   For really bizarre words, go to www.spanishdic.com .  No, it is not a porn site.  It has saved my booty many a time when struggling with my Taco Bell level of Spanish.  Larousse dictionaries also come in pocket size.

NOVELS:  CATHEDRAL OF THE SEA - Ildefonso Falcones.  This book is the big Spain Scoop on life during the  middle ages.   As historical fiction, it takes place on streets you can stroll today.  Centered around Santa Maria Del Mar, a grand cathedral well worth the visit in Barcelona, is a story of a family’’s transcendence from serfdom to wealth.  One of our top favs! Our friend Dana stayed up three nights in a row to read this book.

SHADOW OF THE WIND -  Carlos Ruiz Zafon.  Translated from Spanish, Shadow Of The Wind is a buzz book among our friends in Barcelona.  A thriller without blood and gore, the story takes place,  in part, in a bookstore in Barcelona.  Today, you can meander the late 1800 streets that the author describes.

THE ANGEL’S GAME - Carols Ruiz Zafon.  Eagerly awaited by Zafon fans, the author  explores the world of writing by taking the reader on a literary trip of romance and mystery.  Takes place in Barcelona.

OUR LADY OF THE SEWERS AND OTHER ADVENTURES IN DEEP SPAIN – Paul Richardson.  Witty, eccentric, with sharp view of people and places.  Will add idiosyncratic info to the sights and sounds of surprising Spain!