Wine drinking in Barcelona

By Regina Winkle-Bryan

What’s going on in the Barcelona wine scene? We talk to experts Gabriella and Ryan Opaz, of the popular online guide CataVino, about grape goodness in the city and wine culture throughout Spain.

Are young people in Barcelona, or young Spaniards in general, interested in wine? It seems like they are more interested in beer.

“Wine is ubiquitous in Spain, and therefore it’s often not appreciated, in much the same way you might overlook the beauty of your hometown. It’s not until someone comes to visit you, that you open your eyes and suddenly “see” what is exciting. Here, simple quaffable wine is served at many meals; parents pouring cheap plonk into glass tumblers. As children, people saw wine as a beverage, not a special drink, and definitely not something worth exploring. Until this changes and people demand something “different”, “unique”, flavorful, the status quo remains. Beer (and the craft beer movement in Spain), just might be the catalyst to help people jump from Don Simon (boxed wines) to higher quality drinks.”

Is there any difference between what young wine drinkers go for and what older wine drinkers buy?

“Yes. But it depends on their ages. Kalimotxo and Tinta de Verano are ubiquitous in Spain. The former, red wine blended with coca cola, and the latter with a 7up like beverage called Gaseosa. These are everywhere, and in truth, can be great summer quaffs. We don’t think this is a young versus old issue, however, it has a lot more to do with class. Spain is a not a “wine country” it’s a country that produces wine, yes. But it’s a small group that seek out special wines, or wines from abroad to experiment with. There is a new wave of wine drinkers, sure, but it’s not very easy to define.”

What are some of your preferred bars in Barcelona to drink wine?

“La Vinya del Señor is by far one of our favorite wine bars, with a sizable and diverse list of wines. Plus, it’s tourist friendly, located in the heart of the city and has a fab ambiance – especially in the summer. However, it’s typically standing room only which can be annoying for some.”

Back in the day every bar had its own wine barrel and served and sold its own house wine. Do you know anything about this and why it was stopped?

To be honest, this tradition hasn’t stopped. You can still find wine a granel across Spain, but it would require you to get out of the touristy areas. Many barrios have small wine shops that have vermouth and various wines in barrel, as do the majority of towns outside of main city centers. Simply enter the shop with a container of any size and you can “fill ‘er up”, sometimes even with gas pump like nozzles. When we are in small towns we always buy some vermouth considering each pueblo has its own blend and artisanal vermouths are amazing!”

How has wine changed in the last 10 years? The last 5 years? (In Barcelona)

I wouldn’t say it has changed a lot. To be honest most of the wine shops that were there then, are there now. Monvinic (a new bar in the Eixample) was a huge change, but isolated, in that they served a wide range of international wines. But as a whole, the wine scene is very similar to before. Restaurants are still not very adventurous unless you are talking about the higher end places, and even these places tend to focus on the traditional more than the artisanal. Moritz’s Bar a Vins is a cool place, and a great addition, and could be a sign of changes to come. But for the 8 years we were in BCN we didn’t see major shifts.”

When it comes to wine tourism in Spain, my experience has been that this is not Napa. It can be hard to find a cellar with a tour and tasting set up for visitors. How is this changing or how has it changed already?

You are absolutely correct that Spain is not Napa, in large part because they don’t collaborate. The US culture understands that without collaboration, you cannot sell wine. In order to attract consumers, you need to ensure that they have everything catered to them, from convenient shop hours to joint events in your region. A winery needs to promote its region as a whole, not just its wine, and this requires teamwork. In order to succeed, you must work with your neighbors, hand-in-hand, to ensure consumer satisfaction. Spain fears that level of collaboration, terrified that someone might “steal” their business. Unfortunately, the opposite is true. The more you guard yourself from others, the more hurdles are created, and the less opportunities consumers have to buy from you.”

How are Spanish winemakers and wine bars collaborating with chefs and helping to promote Spanish / Catalan cuisine?

At the celebrity end of the spectrum you see collaborations with chefs and winemakers to promote Spanish/Catalan cuisine, but in Barcelona we don’t see a lot of this. The Catalans are convinced by their wines and foods! As are the Spanish. So there is not a lot to promote internally.”

Any wine tours near or in Barcelona you recommend?

Absolutely! There are loads of wine tours available, ranging from biking through the slate vineyards of the Priorat to customized cooking and wine courses. Barcelona does not lack in options, it’s merely a question of what you’re specifically looking for. Catavino works with several trusted tour companies to create customized tours specific to wine and food lovers. Happy to provide links if you desire.

Anything else you think we should know about the Barcelona or Spanish wine scene?

“We hate to emphasize the same point, but Spain is not a wine country, it’s a country with wine. Which means most people here don’t put wine on a pedestal. It’s a beverage with dinner. Ryan used to say “In America people pick up a bottle and debate what to serve with it. Here in Spain people sit down to dinner and say ‘Where’s the wine’”. That said, there is no shortage of wines and foods to explore, but in large part, we highly suggest jumping into a car and getting out there to find those nooks and crannies of the country. There are many wines and styles that never make the pages of international wine magazines but are amazing nonetheless: Sherry is more than a cocktail mixer; Fondillon, once the world’s greatest wine back in the 1800’s; Rancio, Mistella, Vermouth, and then not to mention all the grapes. So much more than just Tempranillo.”

Where do you go when you want to drink a good Catalan wine?

Honestly, home We love to cook, so we tend to break open bottles we want to explore with meals we want to cook. And if we’re lucky, our experience is always shared among friends. Though if you are a visitor to Barcelona, currently we recommend Bar a Vins by Moritz. They have a focus on Catalan and it’s just a super cool place to hang out.”

Wine at Bar a Vins

Want more on tours, tips, and wine trivia? Visit Gabriella and Ryan Opaz’s site, CataVino, HERE.

About Ryan Opaz: Born in Minnesota, Ryan is the co-founder of Catavino.net, Catavino Marketing, Wineblogger.info and the European Wine Bloggers Conference. He also consults on the AVIN project and the social tasting note site Adegga.com Although a chef at heart, Ryan’s time is spent giving workshops and speeches internationally on social media and blogging for wineries.

About Gabriella Opaz: Born and bred in Chicago, IL, Gabriella is the co-founder of Catavino.net, Catavino Marketing, Wineblogger.info and the European Wine Bloggers Conference. Considered the “Little Engine that Could”, Gabriella is the motor behind Catavino’s projects, giving them life and fruition. Member of the Wine Century Club & the Circle of Wine Writers, a Certified Sherry Educator, Editor for Palate Press, Judge at Essencia do Vinho (2008,2009) and Bacchus (2010) and a post graduate of UMN with a Masters in Education.

Row your boat on the canal at Plaza de España.

With its reliably sunny climate, Seville is an ideal family destination where you can nearly always be outside – although indoor activities offer a welcome respite from the summer heat. Mother of two small children, Fiona Flores Watson of Scribbler in Seville gives her top family-friendly activities in Andalucia’s largest city, for toddlers and teenagers, from high-tech to historic – which parents are guaranteed to enjoy as much as little ones.

By Fiona Flores Watson

PARK LIFE – PLAYGROUNDS, CART AND BOAT HIRE, MUSEUMS, FILM SET, ALL AT THE PARQUE MARIA LUISA

Best for: all ages, especially toddlers and sporty kids. Free, except vehicle hire.

Where better to take small children who need a runaround than the park? Shade, check; playgrounds, check; refreshments, check. But as well as the usual small person requisites, the Parque Maria Luisa in Seville – the city’s largest park at 45,000m2, located a short walk from the centre – offers a legion of other activities to keep you and your family happy for an entire day. And it’s a work of art in itself, too.

Lots of grass for picnics and games in Parque Maria Luisa.

Climb the waterfall mountain, visit the island on the lake, feed the ducks, and explore the glorietas (mini plazas), with their tiled pavilions, fountains, pools and benches, featuring lots of hidden corners for playing hide-and-seek (spare clothes are always useful in case of excessive splashing!). Several playgrounds with climbing frames, slides, spinning roundabouts, and swings will keep the smallest members of the family happy, while you soak up the sun on a bench.

Next to the park, the impressive Plaza de España is a vast space surrounded by four bridges crossing a canal, every surface resplendent with the azulejos (ceramic tiles) made in nearby Triana – climb the stairs to the upper level for great views over the plaza and park. Sharp-eyed young film buffs may recognise the plaza as the palace of Naboo from Star Wars: Attack of the Clones.

Clip from Star Wars: Attack of the Clones

If you don’t mind splashing out a few euros, you can rent a rowing boat on the canal in Plaza de España, or take a horse-and-carriage ride – both cheesy but heaven for kids; some drivers will let children sit up next to him, which always goes down a treat.

For older kids, there are pedal cars, go-karts, or for families with young children canopy bikes (shaded vehicles seating four or six, powered by two pedal bikes, with smaller seats at the front for little ones) – look out for them on Plaza de America, outside the Archaeological Museum, and near Plaza de España. And so to the learning zone: at the Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions you can see displays of traditional crafts such as tile-making, leatherwork and goldsmithery, although they’re a tad old-fashioned. History fans can wallow in the glories of Roman Seville at the Archaeological Museum (both museums are pavilions from the 1929 Expo) – look out for the mosaics with animals, and Roman toys and games, found at nearby Italica. The bling of the Tesoro del Carambolo, a hoard of Tartessian (pre-Phoenician) gold jewellery unearthed locally, will dazzle any accessory-loving chica.

When it’s time to refuel, you’ll find plenty of cafes and restaurants, snack bars and ice-cream stalls all around the park, or just join the locals picnicking on the grass.

ADVENTURES ON THE HIGH SEAS

Best for: pirate-loving five-year-olds and up. Entrance fee.

One of Seville’s newest museums, the Pabellon de Navegacion is all about sailing the high seas – think pirates, galleons and exploring the New World, starting with Columbus in 1492. The Pabellon de la Navegacion is located, appropriately enough, on the river, and as the city’s most high-tech, hands-on museum, is ideal for kids. All information is in both English and Spanish.

Originally built for the 1992 Expo (which commemorated the 500th anniversary of the great discoverer’s voyage), this pavilion has a sea of LED lights on stalks at child height, designed to fade on and off resembling rolling waves, so you feel like you’re in the ocean. Among them you’ll find models of sailing ships and animated films of characters who went off in search of new lands and wealth, from merchants to missionaries. You can find out about life on board – what the sailors and explorers ate, how they smelled (pretty stinky), games they played, rudimentary medicine that was practiced (delightfully gruesome instruments).

Along the back wall are huge video screens for interactive games of shoot-the-pirate, steer-the-ship, hoist-the-main-sail and pump-out-the-water, using hands-on mechanical devices which kids will love – a great combination of visual and manual.

For refreshments, a glass-walled café on the river side of the building offers tapas and sandwiches, with views across to the city.

MORE: http://www.pabellondelanavegacion.es/

Open Tuesday to Saturday 11am – 8.30pm and Sunday 11am-3pm.
Admission price: adults 4.90 euros; children aged 5-14, 3.50 euros; under-5s free.




I’VE GOT RHYTHM : THE MUSEO DE BAILE FLAMENCO

Best for ages eight and up, especially music and dance-lovers. Entrance fee.

Seville is famous for its flamenco, and here you can learn about the dance, take a class, and watch a performance. The Museo del Baile Flamenco is a traditional Sevillano house with patio, transformed into a multi-media centre for learning about this most typically Andalucian art form in a way guaranteed to appeal to children.

Drawing on audio-visual technology, this museum uses sound and video – music, interviews, experiences – to take you into the world of flamenco via your eyes and ears, explaining how it is melded from influences as far afield as Africa and India. Children can listen to the different rhythms and instruments – any young person who is interested in music or dance will love it, especially since it’s less about reading texts (though information is provided in English), more about using your senses, true to flamenco’s instinctive, oral tradition. In one room, the entire wall is taken up by a life-size video of dancers performing, and you feel as if they’re in the room with you – the closest thing to seeing a live flamenco performance. Enough to begin to grasp the idea of duende – or ‘spirit’.

The shop has an excellent selection of books, CDs, DVDs and flamenco accessories (jewellery, shawls, shoes, castanets), including smaller versions for children – what young girl can resist a frilly flamenco dress? Performances are held in the patio nightly at 7pm; times of classes vary.

MORE:www.museoflamenco.com

Open daily, 10am – 7pm.
Admission price: adults 10 euros, children aged 6-12, 6 euros; under-6s free. Performance price: adults 20 euros, children aged 6-12, 12 euros; under-6s free. Combined price: adults. 24 euros, children aged 6-12, 15 euros, under-6s free.
For details of classes, please ask.

Geared up with videoglasses for the Past View tour of Seville – a child-friendly way to learn about the city’s past.

STEP INTO SEVILLE’S HISTORY: PAST VIEW

Best for: ages ten and up, especially tech-loving teenagers. Fee.

Take a step back in time and experience Seville as it was hundreds of years ago, in an augmented-reality video tour – perfect for youngsters hooked on screens.

This new technology, pioneered by Sevillano company Past View, offers a glimpse into Roman, medieval and Moorish Spain. Whether or not your child is interested in history, he or she will be captivated by these 3-D films, viewed through videoglasses which you wear while standing in the spot where each is set. Meet the Moorish architect of the Giralda (former minaret in the cathedral), Cervantes’ servant on the day the Don Quixote writer is arrested in Plaza San Francisco, and see the dodgy types who inhabit the Arenal’s river port in the 17th century.

Using geo-positioning, an iPhone and the headset with earphones, you listen to audio information and watch the movies (all available in English) for each spot, accompanied by the Past View guide – an experience which brings history to life as no book can. And will appeal to children, especially, far more than print.

The Metropol tour takes you up on top of the “Mushrooms”, Seville’s new architectural wonder, officially named Metropol Parasol, consisting of six vast fungi-shaped shades. On a 26m-high walkway, you watch a video reconstruction of Roman Seville – inspired by, rather than based on, fact. This is the best introduction to the city you can give to a screen-happy teenager.

MORE:www.pastview.es

Prices: Seville tour: 15 euros (price is same for adults and children).
Metropol tour: 5 euros, plus 1.40 euros entrance fee.
Combined price: 18 euros, plus 1.40 entrance fee.

Three fierce lions at the Archaeological Museum in Maria Luisa Park.

Have you traveled in Spain with children? Tell us about your experience!

Surfs up! To give you some summer destination inspiration, here’s a beach shot for Photo Friday.

Hints:

-It rains in this area…..a lot
-Some of the best surfing in Spain is found here
-I’ve eaten tapas all over Spain, and it is in THIS region that I found them to be the most delicious….

Do you know where in Spain this photo was taken?

Fun Travel Advice Spain

Leave your guesses below in the comments section!

An old farm on Fuerteventura

By Regina Winkle-Bryan

The Canary Islands are off the western shores of Africa, and are made up of seven large islands. Fuerteventura is one of them, and I was lucky enough to spend a few days there this spring. Dry and volcanic, Fuerteventura is like no place in Spain I’ve ever been.

Beaches:

People mainly come to Fuerteventura for its superb beaches and windsurfing. I especially liked the coves near El Cotillo, pictured here:

El Cotillo – Spain

El Cotillo with mountains in the distance – Fuerteventura

Water around El Cotillo

Surfers at El Cotillo

Pebble Beach in El Cotillo

Food:

We ate fresh fish, locally produced goat cheese and the spicy specialty, potatoes with mojo picón, a hot garlicy sauce that will stay with you for hours….it’s tasty, but you may not want to eat it before a date.

Fresh Fish on Fuerteventura

Mojo picón and potatoes

Locally made aged goat cheese from La Villa

Island produced goat cheese – ‘Queso Pimenton’

Tomatoes are a crop grown on the island

Some of the best Carrot Cake I’ve ever eaten at ‘Pastelo’ in Lajares

Elegant seafood dinner with wine at Elba Palace Golf Hotel

Typical honey rum, served after dinner

Villages:

Most tourists find a beach and burn, I mean tan, there for the duration of their stay. But there are many pueblos worth exploring if you have a car that are inland or lesser-known. These villages are less set up for tourists and therefore not as expensive and less crowded. Here are a few that stood out.

El Cotillo, a few tourists but nothing like Corralejo

Pajara, Fuerteventura

Pajara is an oasis

Betancuria

Betancuria, an inland village near Antigua

Betancuria, village details

Betancuria, Fuerteventura

Other sights:

I also visited an aloe vera farm on Fuerteventura where I learned all about what aloe can do for my body, inside and out, and how it’s processed. Is there anything aloe cannot do? Doubtful. It’s one of the earth’s most useful medicinal plants. You can eat it, drink it, and slather it on your skin. You may need aloe if you spend too much time roasting in the sun! Maybe it doesn’t sound that thrilling, but I found the farm tour really interesting. FYI: Aloe is not a cactus like I had thought. It’s actually a succulent, closer to asparagus. Feel free to impress your friends with that fact at your next dinner party. In addition to aloe, which is one of the island’s exports, I also peeked in on a goat farm, and a salt factory.

Aloe goodness at Savimax

Aloe plants on Fuerteventura

Goat farm – La Villa Queseria de Betancuria

Donkey from Fuerteventura with ‘cross’ on its back

Salt factory with whale skeleton

Stay:

I stayed at Elba Palace Golf, a luxury 5-star resort near Caleta de Fuste. I also visited a casa rural, or country house B&B, called La Gayria. I didn’t stay there, but it may appeal to visitors who want to stay off the tourist track on a working farm, complete with donkeys, dogs, hens, gardens, and a burgeoning vineyard.

Elba Palace Golf, Fuerteventura

Elba Palace Golf, Bedroom

Elba Palace Golf pool

Elba Palace Golf bedroom balcony

Elba Palace Golf bedroom bathroom

Elba Palace Golf outdoor lounge

Casa Rural La Gayria

Casa Rural La Gayria – bedroom

Casa Rural La Gayria – gardens

Casa Rural La Gayria – pool

More on hotels:

Elba Palace Golf: http://bit.ly/15d2bnU

Casa Rural La Gayria: http://www.agroturismolagayria.com/

Hopefully these photos have left your curious and inspired to see more of Fuerteventura. Have questions? Send us an email or leave a comment below.

***I was a guest of Elba Palace Golf. All the photos are my own as are the descriptions and opinions about the hotels and destinations listed here.

By Nancy Todd

The Scoop Experts say, “Tip.”  And, you tip differently in Spain.  We hope that servers in Spain are well compensated when payday rolls around because tipping is much less in Spain.

Whether you are in big cities like Barcelona or Madrid, or in villages,  service is slower as in really, really slow.  Don’t let that deter the quantity of your tip.  It is not bad service.  It is Spain.  I have often been in a restaurant when the servers were talking with each other or on their cell phones, and they just continue talking.  The guest is not attended to until they are ready.

Review your bill to make sure it is correct.  Bills are incorrect about 50% of the time.  Check to see if you are charged a tip.  If you are, don’t tip anymore.  Some places include a tip, most do not.  Here are some rules of the wallet when it comes to tipping.

1.  Coffee, beer, small stuff – Round the amount  off to the next euro.  For instance, when I pay 1.30 euros for a coffee, I leave 1.50 euros if it is a place I go to often.  If I don’t go there often, no tip.

2.  Lunch -  For the Menu del Dia ( Menu of the Day), tip etiquette is to leave one euro per person or about 5%.

3.  Dinner -  In a moderately priced restaurant, leave one euro per person.  In an elegant restaurant, 10-20%.

4.  Taxis – Round tip off to the nearest euro.  If a driver is surly or takes you out of your way, leave him a crumpled gum wrapper.  Drivers usually charge 1.50 extra for each suitcase handled.

Be in the know with more restaurant rules.  For cool tapas places to go in Barcelona, Scoopette Regina has The Scoop.

What have your service/tipping experiences been in Spain?  Any advice?

At the original patatas bravas restaurant in Madrid, Las Bravas

Luckily, our writers for The Spain Scoop love to eat the unique food of Spain.  However, when it comes to patatas bravas, one of Spain’s most delectable tapas, writer Robin Graham, in his ever inquisitive way, digs into the history of this famous food. Caution: you may get hungry reading his story. 

By Robin Graham

In Britain it’s the chip, stateside the fry, the French eat pomme frites and the Belgians do too. Cultural identities can be distinguished in the choice of ketchup, mayonnaise, vinegar and salt. Very little in the culinary world can arouse our enthusiasm, or make us so opinionated, as the fried potato.

In Spain, there is only one winner- originating in Madrid and served everywhere, it consists of chunky fried potatoes doused in a day-glo sauce made of hot pimentón, saffron, sherry vinegar, tomatoes, garlic, sugar, sometimes even some jamón (ham) and who knows what else.

Madrid’s Gran Via

There are probably as many different recipes as there are bars that serve it, but nowhere has more of a claim on the original as Madrid’s  Las Bravas, the little bar that opened for business on El Callejón del Gato in the capital city’s La Latina district in 1933.

In or around 1950 the owners, who had been serving mainly sardines, started serving up their fried potatoes with a spicy sauce and it did so well for them that these day there are two more branches in the neighbourhood and a whole country full of copycats.

They’ll sell you the sauce bottled, the original recipe closely guarded, but the best way to enjoy it is in the (brightly-lit, visually unattractive) bar, where madrileños squeeze themselves in to start an evening or finish off an afternoon’s shopping with a racion of the bright orange, deep fried dish.

You could have some pulpo (octopus) too or maybe some embutidos (chorizos and blood sausages) but it’s probably some kind of sin to come here and not try the iconic dish they credit themselves with inventing.

San Miguel Market is another place in Madrid to buy patatas bravas or buy your own potatoes.  The Scoop has suggestions of where to stay in Madrid.

What is your favorite Spanish tapa? 

Robin Graham writes about Andalusia, Spain and some other stuff. His stories can be found, with accompanying photography, at alotofwindHe’s a private person but, strangely, doesn’t mind being followed: @robinjgraham or liked: alotofwind.com.  Photography at 500px

Move over Disneyland! Here’s a real castle right out of fairytales. Where did I snap this shot? A few hints:

It’s in the North of Spain
Some say this area is Basque, others say it isn’t
They make a nice rosé wine….

Do you know where it was taken?

Fun Expert Travel Advice On Spain

Pool and terrace area

By Cat Gaa

Aww, Ronda gets all the fame. Like the beautiful older sister, she’s the gem of the white villages of Andalusia and the de facto capital of the Serranía de Málaga.

But tucked into these northern mountains of the province, far from the holidaymakers on the Costa del Sol, are a host of small ‘pueblos’ that hide the true Andalusian spirit, ‘en español’ of course. Almohalla 51, a couple-run boutique hotel in the small village of Archidona, mixes an eclectic style with classic Andalusian hallmarks, and has helped transform the sleeply village into a tourist draw.

Boutique hotel stays in Spain

The Story of How
The Almohalla 51 owners have long had ties with Spain. In fact, Myles summered in the Costa del Sol as a child, and when the pair decided to grind their corporate lives in London to a halt, their next step was clear.

Checking out properties in the geographical center of Spain, he and his partner David bought two crumbling houses from a local family and did a major renovation, striving to conserve as much of the original furniture and making the home eco-friendly. Solar panels heat the rooms and running water, and local artisans were hired to repair or recreate furniture when possible.

Almohalla 51, Spain

The Hotel and Amenities
The result of the renovations is a cozy, five-room space with several common areas and en suite bathrooms. One of the highlights is the ‘Gallinera,’ a hidden deck with a pool and small bar where guests can enjoy a glass of sherry and take in the views. David and Myles are excellent company and cooks, serving us up a hearty breakfast and giving us tips and suggestions for the ‘pueblo’ and beyond.

Hotel nook area

There are a number of stairs in the hotel, so children are not allowed, and Almohalla 51 is not recommended for those with mobility issues. Rates vary by season, but expect to pay between 80€ and 115€ per night, with breakfast, linens, housekeeping and VAT tax included.

Cat Gaa at Almohalla 51, Spain

What to do in Archidona
Perched on the side of the Sierra de Grácia, Archidona serves up inspiring vistas of the surrounding countryside, and Myles and David take their loveable dog on walks to the sanctuary and ramparts that tower over the village. Archidona is also noted for its Baroque architecture, evident in several convents and the Plaza Ochavada, the central square.

David and Myles are available to help with itineraries and suggestions on where to eat in Archidona, and where to get local specialties like ‘porra archidonesa’, a cold, tomato-based soup.

MORE:

Get info and make bookings at: http://www.almohalla51.com/

Arriving to Archidona
The town is a mere 20 kilometers from Antequera, making it easy to reach thanks to the high-speed train and its connections from Madrid and around Andalusia. It’s also an easy drive from Seville on the A-92 and the Costa del Sol, just catching the A-45 and turning off at the A-354 highway.

Cat Gaa left the skyscrapers of Chicago for the olive groves of Southern Spain over five years ago, developing an allgery to the olive trees along the way. While she calls Seville home and writes about it on her blog, Sunshine and Siestas, even this city girl needs a country escape from time to time. You can find her on twitter and instagram at @sunshinesiestas.

****My stay was graciously provided by David and Myles, the owners of the hotel. All opinions (and the kilos gained from their food recommendations in the village) are mine, all mine.

In the South, some say this city is the most romantic in all of Spain! Where did I take this photo? Leave your guesses below!

Fun Travel Spain

Interview by Nancy Todd

Kaley moved from Indiana to big city Madrid, taught English, met a man, put on her white dress and walked down the aisle.  Her blog is full of tips about the good life in Madrid and teaching English in Spain.  The Scoopettes love a fun wedding story and hers is a delight.

1. You moved from Salamanca to the big city of Madrid. Do you prefer small or big city life in Spain?

I prefer small, no doubt about it. I can’t deny that living in Madrid has its perks: more access to things (food especially) and a more central location, but I like small-town life more. Now, don’t get me wrong. I don’t want to live in a remote village anytime soon. But I enjoy being able to meet people in less than 10 minutes, in walking everywhere, and the feel of a smaller town in general. It might have something to do with the fact that, as John Mellencamp sings, “I was born in a small town.”

2. What were the most difficult parts to get used to when you moved to Spain? Any advice for our readers?

I first came to Spain in 2008, to study abroad in Toledo. I struggled with adjusting to the eating times, but after a while it became like second nature. I also wasn’t ready for the amount of social faux pas I was about to commit. I had no idea to whom I should give dos besos, (two kisses) how to greet someone when entering a shop, the right way to use my knife and fork, and obviously some more serious ones. One time I asked my now husband, Mario, a question and ended it with “… ¿o qué?” which to me was a polite way of letting him fill in the blank, so to speak. He informed me that this sort of question could easy be perceived as rude if I said it to someone who didn’t know my good intentions. Oops!

For anyone who wants to move to Spain, especially from the US or England, I would say just be ready to adapt to their social cues. What you think is rude may not be. And what you think is perfectly acceptable may be seen as very rude. You can’t go to the grocery store (Midwestern speak for supermarket) in your sweatpants in Salamanca without the whole place staring at you. (Though I have heard that in the beach towns this is more than acceptable.) You have to say hello when entering a shop or the gym locker room. Watch what the people around you do and follow suit!

3. Loved all your posts about your wedding! What was special/different about being married in Spain? Did you also have a ceremony in Indiana?

Getting married in Spain was special because it was about more than uniting two people — it was uniting two cultures, two families, two languages, two countries. It was magical too, for a girl from Indiana. We got married in a church built in the 11th century, way before my country even existed. We had a lavish banquet and later a dance party that lasted hours! It’s not the norm in Indiana, but it was the best day of my life. I cannot imagine it having gone better. Plus, in Spain, you don’t usually plan as much yourself, which means less freedom in a way, but I loved it. I didn’t worry about a thing besides my dress, hair, and makeup. Another thing that is great here in Spain is that tourists and passers-by stop and watch you as you get out of the car, go into the church, etc. You feel like a celebrity!

We are planning on having a ceremony in Indiana this summer or fall. I am excited to share our love with our family there.

4. Where are the most fav places you have traveled to in Spain?

Good question. I really enjoyed our trip to San Sebastián. The weather was just perfect, and as you are well aware, it is a picture-perfect town. Also: great food! We hiked up Monte Urgull for a wonderful view.

I also really enjoyed Lago de Sanabria, located in the Zamora province. It’s obviously not very well known, but it’s highly underrated. There’s a lot of hiking and a great place to swim.

5. How do you and your husband spend the perfect Sunday in Madrid?

Mm, any perfect Sunday needs to start out with a good breakfast, and for me that is a tostada con tomate and a café con leche. Mario will take the tostada but exchange the coffee for an English breakfast tea. After breakfast, we’d take a stroll along the Madrid Río, a nice little park along the Manzanares River. After sufficient exercise, we might stop by the Matadero for a cultural exposition or film.

For lunch, we’d stop by La Madreña, a great little Asturian restaurant in our barrio. We’d choose their specialty, carne a la piedra. To wash it down, we’d choose Pesquera (Ribera del Duero).

Then we’d hit up a café for coffee and dessert, perhaps El Azul de Fúcar, a quaint little coffeeshop near Atocha Train Station which fellow Spain blogger, Cassandra, introduced me to and I love. We’d have some dessert and coffee (for me) or herbal tea (for him).

During a perfect day, we’d also watch Mario’s favorite team, Real Madrid, play a match at Santiago Bernabeu. After a win, we’d head home to our barrio for some cheap, delicious tapas.

Kaley started this blog as a way to keep up with her family in Indiana, when she moved to Salamanca, Spain in 2009. She wrote for the 2010–2011 school year when Kaley was working as an English teacher in Zamora, Spain, regaling readers with humorous anecdotes from her 200+ high school students studying English.  You can find her delightful reads at Kaley…& Más.

Tenerife Island, Apartments abound in Playa de las Americas, Adeje.

Linda Wainwright is an expert on the Canary Islands, especially Tenerife Island where she has lived since 1987.  She has seen the quality and numbers of hotels change.  Our post on where to stay includes fat/thin wallets, and insider tips.  Plus, finding where the stars stay.

It’s always a difficult question for an ex-pat, the one about accommodation, because we don’t, normally use it. What I can say with absolute certainty now is that there is something for everyone on Tenerife Island. That wasn’t always the case. When I arrived in 1987 it was very much a package holiday kind of place, but that has changed dramatically over the years in between.

I’m lucky, I think, in my life to have friends from a huge variety of backgrounds and nationalities, so what I do get is feedback on the different styles of hotels, hostels or apartments they’ve used.

Hostel, El Medano

To state the obvious first: the southwest coast of Tenerife is the habitat of what they call in Cornwall, England “grockles.” That’s a cute kind of name for tourists. From Los Gigantes to Los Cristianos the coast is lined with hotels and apartment complexes large and small, mostly large. Development went unchecked here for some years, before powers-that-be decided that they needed to smarten up the island’s image.

However, a few years back,  some bright spark at the town hall in the municipality of Adeje (where a large chunk of “grockleland” sits) had the idea of re-branding their image. They christened their section of coastline Costa Adeje, and more upmarket development was encouraged.

Don’t get me wrong, there had always been some good hotels along with the average, but the first, which really seemed to raise the bar, was the Jardin Tropical. It’s design, reminiscent of Andalucia, stood out from the faceless pack. There followed the rather less stylish, but nevertheless luxury Mare Nostrum resort in Arona, a complex of three inter-linked hotels, where (shh!) stars of British TV have been known to hang out. Most striking perhaps is the Bahia del Duque, which seen from the ocean looks like an entire, Canarian village. Its colourful turrets, and a pool which makes use of the natural rock face, are just two features. It appears to remain the flagship hotel of the southern coast, frequently used by the Tourist Board to accommodate visiting bloggers and journalists.

Rural hotel, Tenerife Island, village of Granadilla de Abona

Pre-recession saw construction of several upmarket hotels along this coastline, including the spacious Costa Adeje Gran Hotel with a truly gourmet a la carte restaurant, La Laja. The Gran Meliá Palacio Guia de Isora boasts the largest infinity pool in Europe (don’t know if it is, but it is stunning!). It’s in the small village of Alcalá, so away from the crowds. Non-other than President Clinton has lunched at the Abama Hotel and Resort, further up the coast, another grand hotel in a tranquil setting.

Whilst I’ve never holidayed in any of these hotels, I’ve had dinner, attended conferences or visited friends in most, and I can testify that Tenerife is beginning to get its act together now when it comes to the luxury market.

At the other end of the scale, private enterprise seems to have cottoned on to the fact that there is a “traveler’s” market, backpackers who simply want a bed for a night or two whilst visiting the different islands. Two hostels have opened in recent months in the area in which I live alone, Casa Grande Surf Hostel is smack-bang in the center of El Médano, windsurf capital of the island, so no prizes for guessing what market they’re targeting! The other  Amigos, is sited in a reconstructed large house, a little off the beaten track, but with the advantage of an enclosed garden with a small pool, and the décor is suitably funky and trendy. My nephew, who has done the obligatory RTW trip, has used both, and pronounces them both high standard.

The development of rural tourism has been notable here of late. On a drive around the northwest tip of the island the other day a friend and I were surprised to notice the amount of rural accommodation offered. Even in a tiny hamlet we’d never heard of before (on an island this size you can imagine how tiny that was!) there was a “rural hotel” notice.

I’ve “had a nosy” into some of these, and they vary from very basic conversions of old houses to the quite sophisticated boutique hotel, rural only in the sense that it’s in a small town, like Hotel San Roque in Garachico in the island’s northern tip. Others I’ve stumbled across on back roads whilst hiking, where I least expected to find lodging. They certainly fulfil a desire for a peaceful holiday, but also mean that you need a car unless you really are going to “hole up” for a few days.

The Sir Anthony part of Mare Nostrum Resort in Arona.

Apartment renting is the fashionable alternative in cities worldwide these days, but it’s always been an economical alternative in the Canary Islands.

Some years ago, in an attempt to maintain a standard, the Canarian government passed laws regarding the letting of apartments. It was, of course, also an attempt to track down illegal lettings, people who lived off island and weren’t declaring income, so there was an outcry. It goes on. For sure, standards did vary enormously. I worked in real estate for a while, and I’ve been shocked by the filth and lack of maintenance in some apartments. These days, happily, we have a zillion websites where you can check on whether an apartment or a block of apartments has had negative comments from previous users.

Apartments can be luxury penthouses with views across the blue Atlantic, or they can be converted outhouses in a small village, like La Casita (the little house) in inland village San Miguel de Abona. All should be clean and have adequate cooking facilities, that is, at least a hob, though many do have ovens too. The renter does cleaning, although some big blocks will offer a basic service, but not, normally, on a daily basis. Bedding and towels are almost always provided, and should be changed at minimum on a weekly basis, preferably twice weekly. If you’re planning to stay for 3 months, or more, then it should qualify as a long let, and you should pay less than you would for a weekly or two-weekly rental. Basically, the closer to the sea the apartment is, the more expensive it will be, and a true traveler would probably want to avoid the busier resorts.

With so many alternatives, and with so many websites to check out, today finding accommodation to fit both your budget, lifestyle and type of vacation isn’t the problem in Tenerife it once was.

Write The Scoop about your favorite places to stay on the Canary Islands.

Linda Wainwright likes to say that she is “re-inventing herself for her third age” these days. She transplanted to the Canary Islands more than 20 years ago. Now with kids grown up, leaving behind the 9 to 5, she studies writing and photography and is beginning to scratch a living from them, thus fulfilling a lifelong dream. She blogs at www.islandmomma.wordpress.com

It’s always a difficult question for an ex-pat, the one about accommodation, because we don’t, normally use it. What I can say with absolute certainty now, in 2013, is that there is something for everyone on Tenerife. That wasn’t always the case. When I arrived in 1987 it was very much a package holiday kind of place, but that has changed dramatically over the years in between.

I’m lucky, I think, in my life to have friends from a huge variety of backgrounds and nationalities, so what I do get is feedback on the different styles of hotel, hostel or apartment they’ve used of late.

To state the obvious first: the southwest coast of Tenerife is the habitat of what they call in Cornwall, England “grockles.” That’s a cute kind of name for tourists. From Los Gigantes to Los Cristianos the coast is lined with hotels and apartment complexes large and small, mostly large. Development went unchecked here for some years, before powers-that-be decided that they needed to smarten up the island’s image.

However, a few years back some bright spark at the town hall in the municipality of Adeje (where a large chunk of “grockleland” sits) had the idea of re-branding their image. They christened their section of coastline Costa Adeje, and more upmarket development was encouraged.

Don’t get me wrong, there had always been some good hotels along with the average, but the first, which really seemed to raise the bar, was the Jardin Tropical. It’s design, reminiscent of Andalucia, stood out from the faceless pack. There followed the rather less stylish, but nevertheless luxury Mare Nostrum resort in Arona, a complex of three inter-linked hotels, where (shh!) stars of British TV have been known to hang out. Most striking perhaps is the Bahia del Duque, which seen from the ocean looks like an entire, Canarian village. Its colourful turrets, and a pool which makes use of the natural rock face, are just two features. It appears to remain the flagship hotel of the southern coast, frequently used by the Tourist Board to accommodate visiting bloggers and journalists.

Pre-recession saw construction of several upmarket hotels along this coastline, including the spacious Costa Adeje Gran Hotel with a truly gourmet a la carte restaurant, La Laja. The Gran Meliá Palacio Guia de Isora boasts the largest infinity pool in Europe (don’t know if it is, but it is stunning!). It’s in the small village of Alcalá, so away from the crowds. Non-other than President Clinton has lunched at the Abama Hotel and Resort, further up the coast, another grand hotel in a tranquil setting.

Whilst I’ve never holidayed in any of these hotels, I’ve had dinner, attended conferences or visited friends in most, and I can testify that Tenerife is beginning to get its act together now when it comes to the luxury market.

At the other end of the scale private enterprise seems to have cottoned on to the fact that there is a “traveler’s” market, backpackers who simply want a bed for a night or two whilst visiting the different islands. Two hostels have opened in recent months in the area in which I live alone, Casa Grande Surf Hostel is smack-bang in the center of El Médano, windsurf capital of the island, so no prizes for guessing what market they’re targeting! The other, Amigos, is sited in a reconstructed large house, a little off the beaten track, but with the advantage of an enclosed garden with a small pool, and the décor is suitably funky and trendy. My nephew, who has done the obligatory RTW trip, has used both, and pronounces them both high standard.

The development of rural tourism has been notable here of late. On a drive around the northwest tip of the island the other day a friend and I were surprised to notice the amount of rural accommodation offered. Even in a tiny hamlet we’d never heard of before (on an island this size you can imagine how tiny that was!) there was a “rural hotel” notice.

I’ve “had a nosy” into some of these, and they vary from very basic conversions of old houses to the quite sophisticated boutique hotel, rural only in the sense that it’s in a small town, like Hotel San Roque in Garachico in the island’s northern tip. Others I’ve stumbled across on back roads whilst hiking, where I least expected to find lodging. They certainly fulfil a desire for a peaceful holiday, but also mean that you need a car unless you really are going to “hole up” for a few days.

Apartment renting is the fashionable alternative in cities worldwide these days, but it’s always been an economical alternative in the Canary Islands.

Some years ago, in an attempt to maintain a standard, the Canarian government passed laws regarding the letting of apartments. It was, of course, also an attempt to track down illegal lettings, people who lived off island and weren’t declaring income, so there was an outcry. It goes on. For sure standards did vary enormously. I worked in real estate for a while, and I’ve been shocked by the filth and lack of maintenance in some apartments. These days, happily, we have a zillion websites where you can check on whether an apartment or a block of apartments has had negative comments from previous users.

Apartments can be luxury penthouses with views across the blue Atlantic, or they can be converted outhouses in a small village, like La Casita (the little house) in inland village San Miguel de Abona. All should be clean and have adequate cooking facilities, that is, at least a hob, though many do have ovens too. The renter does cleaning, although some big blocks will offer a basic service, but not, normally, on a daily basis. Bedding and towels are almost always provided, and should be changed at minimum on a weekly basis, preferably twice weekly. If you’re planning to stay for 3 months, or more, then it should qualify as a long let, and you should pay less than you would for a weekly or two-weekly rental. Basically, the closer to the sea the apartment is, the more expensive it will be, and a true traveler would probably want to avoid the busier resorts.

With so many alternatives, and with so many websites to check out, today finding accommodation to fit both your budget, lifestyle and type of vacation isn’t the problem in Tenerife it once was.

Linda likes to say that she is “re-inventing herself for her third age” these days. She transplanted to the Canary Islands more than 20 years ago. Now with kids grown up, leaving behind the 9 to 5, she studies writing and photography and is beginning to scratch a living from them, thus fulfilling a lifelong dream. She blogs at www.islandmomma.wordpress.com

Antoni Gaudi is a world renown architect who reinterpreted motifs of nature in playful, undulating designs.  Most of his famous buildings are in Barcelona and were built at the turn of the 20th century.  He worked with a team of ceramicists, glass makers, woodworkers, etc. and usually designed on site as a building progressed.  Name the Gaudi building/site where this architectural element is located.

El Tajo, Ronda’s Gorge

It is not often one travels by train with a real live baron’s grandson to explore family history.  Robin Graham, our knowledgeable writer from Southern Spain, was able to dig into the past of early train travel.  Ronda, one of the most dramatic cities in Spain, has a train heritage that will make you want to ride the rails.

By Robin Graham

The train isn’t powered by steam anymore (actually it’s rather space-age with its information screens, vending machines and between-seat power points) but the country through which it wends its way from Algeciras to the mountain town of Ronda is largely unchanged and dramatically beautiful.

The Henderson family overlooking the gorge.

Rich green country covered in oak forest and lined with valleys and gorges full of rushing water; this was the challenging terrain through which Mr Alexander Henderson, the first Baron Faringdon, was commissioned to build a railway, connecting the British enclave of Gibraltar with the rest of Spain. By the year 1891, his work was complete.

I don’t know much about railroad engineering but if scenery is a criterion I’d say Mr Henderson did a spectacular job. I’m travelling the line back towards Algeciras and although I’ve done it before, this time’s different. Firstly, I’m working – I’ve been commissioned to document my trip by a company that seeks to revive interest in the physical and cultural beauty of the line. Secondly, I happen to be sharing a carriage with the first Baron Faringdon’s great grandson, Lord Faringdon III, and twenty-four of the extended family, reuniting here to celebrate their heritage.

Hotel Reina Victoria in Ronda

So no, not a typical outing for me but a very enjoyable one, not least because the end of the line is Ronda, one of Spain’s most enchanting towns, and I get to hike the gorge while the great and the good go off to dinner.

Disclaimer: should you choose to explore the region by this beautiful old railway and see it from an angle most visitors miss, making use of all the cultural and gastronomic delights it throws up, it may not be possible for Lord Faringdon to accompany you. You can, however, enhance the historical vibe by staying in one or both of the two lovely hotels his ancestor built at either end of the line – the Reina Victoria in Ronda and the Reina Cristina in Algeciras.

Want a day tour by old railroad to Ronda?  Check out Manni’s Tours.

Robin Graham writes about Andalusia, Spain and some other stuff. His stories can be found, with accompanying photography, at alotofwind.  He’s a private person but, strangely, doesn’t mind being followed: @robinjgraham or liked on Facebook: alotofwind
Photography at 500px.

Ben visiting Freixenet Winery while traveling in Spain.

Ben Holbrook tasted his way through the cava capital of the world, where he discovered that luxury of cava is still an affordable and essential ingredient of everyday life.  Cava is sparkling wine and is part of the pride of the wine industry in Spain.

By Ben Holbrook

“In Cataluña this is a delicacy, but before it was food for the farmers,” Marijose told us. “We only had bread to eat, so when it was hard (she knocked her knuckles on the table whilst shaking her head) we put on the garlic and tomato, and the oil of the olive to make it soft.”

She had short, matte-black hair with talcum powder hues flowing through her fringe, and her wrinkles became deeper and more profound as she talked about the food she had prepared for us. I’d eaten pa amb tomàquet  (bread with tomato, oil and garlic) before but this was exceptional.  Encouraged by our smiley faces, Marijose moved on to the semi curat pur d’ovella (cheese).It was cut into bite-sized rectangles and intricately spread out over the plate like a sun-bleached Gaudi mosaic.

“The cheese, this cheese, it is from here, from Sant Sadurní d’Anoia – it is cheese of the sheep.” We demolished every last crumb and paid the bill of €6.60. Marijose gave us another warm smile before darting off to serve a queue of bow-legged punters who were waiting at the bar like thirsty cowboys.

We ran down to the foyer where we met the rest of the group. Our guide approached. His back hunched and eyes glowing against dark olive skin. “Good morning everyone, my name is Carlos. Welcome to Freixenet!” He spoke clearly and sounded a little like Jon Travolta back in the days of Boogie Nights. “OK, guys! Who wants to see the cellar?” We were in the quiet Penedès region of Catalonia, an hour’s train ride from Barcelona. The region is world-famous for its outstanding cava and produces ninety five percent of Spain’s quota.

The walls were the colour of rich red soil and covered in a hundred years’ worth of cotton candy cobwebs. My knees jarred and ached as we descended deeper underground to a place with cathedral-arched ceilings and a climate that reminded me of home. Dusty bottles rested like nuclear missiles in aircraft hangers. Chunks of bricks were missing where a few bottles had exploded at some point during the fermentation process.

“There are 12,000 people in the town of Sant Sadurni and 97% of them are involved in the production of cava. We say that if you buy cava and it is not from the town of Sant Sadurni, well, it’s not really cava.” We learnt that cava is made in the exact same way as champagne. The only reason that champagne costs a fortune, and cava is dirt cheap, is down to the fact that it’s so much easier to produce in Catalonia’s generous climate.

“You know, we are not normally allowed to take guests through these parts of the cellars, but I’m so happy, because you know, two weeks ago I got married and to celebrate I’m going to show you something very special.” He took the cork out of a baby elephant-sized barrel and encouraged us to stick our noses in and have a good whiff. It smelt like burnt cherries and Christmas trees.  “At Freixenet, we squeeze the grapes very softly so we don’t break the seeds. This gives the really smooth flavour that you get with good cava”, Carlos boasted.

Re-entering the tasting room through a considerably less impressive doorway than before, we were back where we’d started. “Hola!” called Marijose, as a mother would welcome her children. Sylvie and I sat with the rest of the group and got to work on some Cordon Negro Reserve Brut, which refreshed my mouth like explosions of cinnamon apple.

This was followed by a number of tastings based on Carlos’ personal recommendations. I had asked him what he would drink on a regular basis, as well as where he would go on the weekends with his friends. I was hoping we’d have a few recommendations to try out after the tour. “All of my friends work for different cava producers, so we get together in our houses and try different cavas.” A particular favourite of mine was the gluggable Trepat, which Carlos explained was ideal for drinking in volume – I would most certainly have to agree.

The rest of the group excused themselves and exited quietly through the gift shop – no doubt picking up a few bottles of vintage cava for the road (at less than €10 a bottle, it’d be a crime not to). Marijose opened a bottle of pink Brut Rose and, as so often happens after a few drinks, the conversation turned to politics. I asked Carlos if they’d experienced any downturn in their production as a result of the nose-diving economy. He scrunched up his face, instantly looking ten years older, and shook his head whilst tutting. “No, we still have our jobs and the company is growing. It is true that Spain as a country is in a lot of trouble, but here in Catalonia, we are safe. We say that in Catalonia we are supporting the rest of the country, and this is why we fight for our independence. With this, Catalonia would be very, very rich.”

Finally, we sipped a Malvasia dessert cava. It was soulfully sweet and sent shivers down my spine. I noticed Carlos staring silently at the floor for a moment, with his arms crossed tightly. I wondered if I’d said too much, if I’d darkened the mood. Then he stood up with the grin back on his face and grabbed my hand whilst looking into my eyes: “You know, never mind about ‘the crisis’, Catalonia is not a bad place to propose to your girlfriend, you know?” It took all of my will power not to give him a big hug. “You’re right, Carlos. And it’s not a bad place to live, either.”

Ben Holbrook is a London-based travel writer who dreams of returning to his beloved Barcelona, where he lived for two glorious years. You can find more of his Spanish adventures and insider guides on his travel blog, Driftwood Journals.

Info on Freixenet Tours - about 45 minutes from Barcelona.

What are your favorite Spanish wines?

Nancy in front of her 20' high door in l'Eixample.

By Nancy Todd

We Scoopettes love living in Barcelona, and have Scoop on the coolest neighborhoods in our city. Read over this list to find out which area of Barcelona is the right one for your stay.

1.  L’Eixample (meaning The Expansion) is Nancy’s neighborhood. With thousands of Art Nouveau buildings with their twirly vines, stained glass roses, and rippling facades, Gaudí was a big influence here. La Pedrera, Casa Batlló, and the famous Sagrada Familia Church loom skyward in L’Eixample. Cerdà was the genius who designed this grid in the late 1800′s. The street corners were chamfered to allow the trams and cool Mediterranean breezes pass. It is a photographer’s dream. Peek in through the huge doorways into lobby’s with old gas lamps, colorful tile floors, and elaborate graffito work on the walls. Damn, I love my neighborhood. 

Fav street: Enrique Granados.

Fav restaurant: La Bodequeta, Rambla de Catalunya, 100. Art Nouveau tile floors, neighbors gather, noisy, authentic Catalan tapas.

La Pedrera in Barcelona’s Eixample Neighborhood

2.  In Gracia there are few folks with floppy maps in hand.  It’s a neighborhood with bohemian roots which continue to this day; reefer is in the air, drums beat.  Kids play soccer in the plazas, old folks shop for bread, and cafe life teems.  Gaudí’s first obscure house is here, Casa Vicens, and it is a dicombobulated creation worth the walk.  Squeezed between the Green and Yellow Metro Lines, Gracia is easy to get to.  The Gracia Festival in August is several days of partying, dancing, and displays.  And did I mention reefer?

Fav street: Verdi Street for its original version cinema and fun bars.

Fav restaurant: A Casa Portuguesa, Carrer de Verde 58, Portugese wines and tapas. Contemporary digs, fun, thirty-something crowd.

The Gothic Neighborhood

3. To the left of Las Ramblas, as you head to the sea, is the Gothic Neighborhood.  In its crackled web of lanes, many of which are so skinny that a fat American car would have it’s mirrors torn off to a jagged nub, is one of the largest preserved medieval neighborhoods in the world and the Roman dudes also left their mark over 2,000 years ago, too.   We love to go bar-hopping here with friends on the weekend. No plan except an initial meeting spot and we are out till at least three. The Barcelona Cathedral has Sardana dancing, which is Catalan folk dancing, on Sunday afternoon, about one. The Frederic Mares Museum and The Shoe Museum are quirky stops.  Watch your wallet day and night.  Plaza Neri is one of my top three plazas in the city.  Oh, you are going to love getting lost here!

Fav street: Carrer Comtal, lots of excellent shopping!

Fav restaurant: Onofre, a wine and tapas bars just behind the Cathedral. All Spanish wines. (Carrer de les Magdalenes, 19 08002 Barcelona)

There are many more barris, or neighborhoods, in the city to choose from (Poblenou, El Raval, Poble Sec, La Barceloneta, etc), but the above are some of the Scoopettes’ faves. Stay tuned for future reviews on areas of Barcelona we recommend staying in. Once you’ve chosen your quarter of the city, look for travel deals online for the best hotel rates. Hotel and hostel rates fluctuate in the metropolis depending on the season and what’s on (for example, expect to pay a lot more if there’s a big trade show in town or if it’s Christmas, etc).

Gothic Quarter Barcelona

Have you stayed in an area of Barcelona that you really liked (or hated)? Tell us about it!