The Treehouse Guide News

Re: tree house on 6 ft stump

no_email@example.com (dlconcepts) — Thu, 12 Jan 2012 04:16:20 GMT

sketched up a drawing for cycomoto's thread if you wanna take a look.

Re: Single Stump Octagonal Platform Treehouse

no_email@example.com (dlconcepts) — Thu, 12 Jan 2012 04:14:56 GMT

Just sketched something up for fun. Granted this is very quick. 14' octagon, with knee braces. Appros 96 sq ft interior, partial wrap around deck.

Re: Single Stump Octagonal Platform Treehouse

no_email@example.com (dlconcepts) — Thu, 12 Jan 2012 03:17:58 GMT

I actually just replied to Henry's question a second ago, similar situation would apply here. If anything is confusing at all, I could always draw it up for you. I like my drafting

Re: tree house on 6 ft stump

no_email@example.com (dlconcepts) — Thu, 12 Jan 2012 03:12:39 GMT

From a structural standpoint you could not go out very far unsupported. Even notching out the stump, 2x6s wouldn't go too far, maybe 4 ft or so without braces of some kind. If you would want to go out farther than that without knee braces or steel I would suggest larger girder lumber such as 2x10s or 12s and half lap joinery into a tic-tac-toe shape. The stump would just be cut into a square (24" square?) in the top 11-1/2" ans 2x12s around it. You would just have to make sure you reinforce the cross joints of your laps with deck bracing, being that you basically just cut their strength in half. Still without knee braces or steel gussets of some kind, I would be worried about the stability past 6 ft or so. Depends on the amount of weight and grain strength of the stump. A person standing 6 ft away from the central point puts a lot of torque on that stump. Dry dead stump = no stability. All depends on how much you want to put op there.
Good Luck!

Re: Single Stump Octagonal Platform Treehouse

no_email@example.com (henry) — Sun, 08 Jan 2012 13:52:24 GMT

I have the same situation.Did you ever build it?

henry

tree house on 6 ft stump

no_email@example.com (henry) — Sun, 08 Jan 2012 13:44:31 GMT

I had a 4 ft dia oak tree break off about 8 ft from the ground.I want to cut it off at 6 ft. and put a tree house on it.I prefer not to have any support posts.I plan on notching out 2 opposite sides to rest and bolt 8 ft 2x6's for my initial support joists.Good idea?

Re: DL Concepts 4 Tree Design : UPDATE 1

no_email@example.com (dlconcepts) — Sat, 07 Jan 2012 00:10:20 GMT

....and if anyone is wondering..plan one wins. Clerestory it is.

Re: DL Concepts 4 Tree Design : UPDATE 1

no_email@example.com (dlconcepts) — Wed, 04 Jan 2012 04:29:38 GMT

For anyone reading my posts. Saving up funds over the winter. More building to come this spring.

Re: I need all the help I can get

no_email@example.com (sukseed) — Mon, 12 Dec 2011 10:48:03 GMT

Ok yes I like !!

The Great Treehouse Challenge on Sky 1 (UK)

no_email@example.com (The Treehouse Guide) — Wed, 07 Dec 2011 10:12:52 GMT

The Great Treehouse Challenge is a new TV series on the construction of community treehouses in the UK. The programme airs from 12 December on Sky 1.

BBC News
Trailer for The Great Treehouse Challenge

Re: What size beam and how far out can flooring go unsupported?

no_email@example.com (Gorlag) — Mon, 21 Nov 2011 23:38:28 GMT

Since I have stumped the world on my two questions I can at least answer one of the two.

How far out can 2*6s go unsupported? I have just done this on a treehouse in NC and the answer is 3 feet. 4 would be pushing it.

Still hope someone will answer my "beam" question. Thanks!

Re: Treehouse bathroom options?

no_email@example.com (dlconcepts) — Fri, 11 Nov 2011 18:09:52 GMT

After milling it over for the night, I am probably going to build my own compost box at the bottom instead of a septic tank. Maintenance isn't much more, and better for the environment.

Re: Treehouse bathroom options?

no_email@example.com (dlconcepts) — Fri, 11 Nov 2011 05:13:54 GMT

Also, I am keeping a updated thread on here as well. Designs and Plans, DLConcepts 4 Post Design. Hopefully by this spring I will be into the well/pump/plumbing/toilet/shower stuff.

Re: Treehouse bathroom options?

no_email@example.com (dlconcepts) — Fri, 11 Nov 2011 05:09:55 GMT

I'm thinking about the same thing.
On the shower note, i am definitely looking at an Ecotemp L5 water heater. Runs from a liquid propane tank. I'm going to dig a well being that i'm close to a river, with a 12v pump, and in line water filter, to fill my 30g holding tank. Water for sink, shower, and more. I can always draw more and refill my tank in the flip of a switch.
I am still debating the best idea for a toilet. Like you, cost is an issue; and compost systems are expensive. My best idea so far is a standard toilet, and a separate valve from my water tank and separate switch in the bathroom. As for drainage, I am building out in the middle of nowhere, so i can use something like a 4" drop pipe to a buried 50 gal septic tank (or optional covered compost pit, havent decided yet.)

Toilet: FREE
Electric and plumbing: Less than $100
Old 50 gal drum: FREE

So, in the long run. Little overall cost, being that i have already have figured for my water system. Easily drainable for winter months, guessing a 10 year plus before septic issues, and not much upkeep. Just the usual chemicals you can pick up at any RV/camper supplier.

Maybe not the best option for your case. But it does involve a bit of plumbing and electricity, but nothing connected to anything household.

Treehouse for my two little girls

no_email@example.com (dmudflapsdad) — Wed, 09 Nov 2011 03:19:09 GMT

After doing alot of research and purchasing several books i decided to use this A frame support.

Got the A frame up using 3/4"X 10" long lag screws.

Used 2X12X16' as the main supports. I have a sliding bracket that attaches to the back tree and notched the A frame so it can slide.

One beam up the other one is right above my head in this photo.

Two views of the bottom floor. I eventually added another A frame to the other side of the tree for more support after i had a design change for the loft area.

got the loft area in and upper walls.

Used inner tube for a flexibe water seal around tree at roof line.

Roofing is on and you can see the flexible seal.

Window box seat so the kids can sit in them. There will be one on the other side also.

The finished view of the window box. My first treehouse, i know i probably made made mistakes and i am by far not an expert at this so any comments are welcome. Thanks for looking.

Here is some updated photos of the stairs leading up to the treehouse.

Upper stairs and slide leading down to landing

lower stairs and slide

Needs handrails and railings

Re: Is this treehouse safe?

no_email@example.com (Gorlag) — Sun, 06 Nov 2011 16:09:35 GMT

Very cool project but I agree changes are needed. Keep the wood screw in at the corners but add 1/4 to 1/2 lag bolts that are 3 to 4 inches long. Recess them if you want to dress them up.

Knee braces. Temporarily support a corner and remove the zinc 8 screw plate. Take the plate to a steel/iron shop and have the exact same angle made but make it 3 inches wide and 4 inches long up and down. Have 3 offset holes drilled with a diameter of 1/2 inch. Off set them...don't have them in a row. Change all four to this type of plate and get rid of the wood screws and upgrade to 1/2 lag bolts with washers. Steel plate can be 1/4 inch and painted to prevent rust. Four of these should cost less than $30.00 to $40.00.

May your 4 year old have a ball!

Re: DL Concepts 4 Tree Design : UPDATE 1

no_email@example.com (Gorlag) — Sun, 06 Nov 2011 15:51:20 GMT

I'll vote twice. If you can have a long window (or two separate ones) in the wall on Plan #1 between the two separate roofs facing the loft...then that has my vote. It would be cool to lay on the loft and see up into the trees and a narrow long window there would really add to the perception of space.

If you can't do that then Plan 2 gets my vote especially if you can break up the longer ceiling span with 2 sky lights. Even new there are some pretty cheap models out there that I would never put in a home but would be fine for a treehouse. I'd bet Ebay or Craiglist has some used ones available. I even found used spiral staircases for my current design...though I still ruled that out due to cost. Later.

Re: Tree house review request

no_email@example.com (Gorlag) — Sun, 06 Nov 2011 15:41:23 GMT

Korey, looks great. Please post up to date pics. Foundation looks fine and based on my treehouse experience since 2006 I'd say you could safely have 4 adults in that treehouse with each weighing between 150 and 225 lbs. However, I wouldn't have everyone standing on the same corner all huddled together. Using bolted wood blocks for your four 45s was interesting. Down the road if you ever see issues with this you can probably change those out for iron braces that connect to the existing beams. Brackets are not expensive to have made. I just had a large naive, 2 "J"s, and 2 box brackets made for $209.00 from New Hanover Iron Works in Wilmington, NC. They paint them too. You probably have a place near by. Later.

Re: DL Concepts 4 Tree Design : UPDATE 1

no_email@example.com (dlconcepts) — Fri, 04 Nov 2011 22:52:18 GMT

Just two plans for the treehouse...one clerestory, one not.
I have enough materials, windows, siding, ect for either design.
I'm taking votes!
Hopefully someone responds.

Re: DL Concepts 4 Tree Design : UPDATE 1

no_email@example.com (dlconcepts) — Mon, 24 Oct 2011 02:34:51 GMT

Updated overall look.
Telephone poles leveled off and deck laid down. 4x4 structural posts attached to floor joist, rim joist, and sitting on to of the girder.

DL Concepts 4 Tree Design : UPDATE 1 (4 Post Design, Sliding Floor Joist System)

no_email@example.com (dlconcepts) — Tue, 18 Oct 2011 22:23:16 GMT

Platform 16' x 15'8", 9' off of the ground.
Sliding joints for both north to south and East to West movement in the trees without
racking the structure. Double 2x12 Girders on each side with 2x10 joists on 24" centers.
Next on the list is decking and knee braces.
Plenty of fun so far, anxious to show the structure further along.
I'll keep ya posted.
I'd be happy to answer any questions that I can.
More pictures http://www.facebook.com/media/se…?set=a.626460561623.2109… for those with facebook.
Question: What type of knee brace design do you think would work best?

Re: rope

no_email@example.com (Gorlag) — Mon, 17 Oct 2011 23:44:33 GMT

I dream too. I dream of writing a book on local treehouses. One of the sections will be called "How to hurt a tree". The focus of the chapter will be rope. Second only to wire, rope is at the top for damaging trees. The problem with staring at trees and coming to a conclusion is that by observation you cannot see how a tree works. The tree's nutrients travel up the outside of the tree. This is why on those rare occassions you'll come across a treehouse in a living tree that has the stairs carved right up through the center of the tree. The center supports, but the outside layer is life. When you use rope you can actually strangle this life line.

Personally I too have no piercings. However, this is the best way to support anything in a tree. The key is to limit the holes. My first treehouse was made in three trees with a total of 5 holes. The treehouse I am building now using a naive and 2 "J" brackets will be 4 holes. A treehouse in Wisconsin I am designing and will construct in the spring of 2012 will have 2 decks and only have a total of 8 to 10 holes. These will all be 1 inch in size. Those will be GLs. Go to Google Images and search "GLs" (or Garnier Limbs) and "treehouse brackets". You'll see some very useful pictures.

Also look up "tree compartimentalization" to better understand piercings and their effect.

One designer said "the treehouse itself should never touch the tree." That is a good guideline. Have fun.

A GL question (GLs and angles)

no_email@example.com (Gorlag) — Mon, 17 Oct 2011 01:36:07 GMT

Great site. Can't believe no one has posted in this thread for a year. Hope you are still here admin.

This a GL question. You may have seen my other thread. Same project. Most GLs are placed in a tree at right angles. If the limb is running away and you place the GL...I get it, as long as the angle is not to great.

But what if you need a GL "under" limb. This is for the one of two main beams that will support the entire deck. I'm not talking a huge angle but when you factor in that a 10" beam needs ceiling room to rest on the GL...well now the GL is extending out further to get out from under the limb it is screwed into.

Assuming you have a very healthy 150 year old oak and a well placed GL...how far can a GL extend out before it needs additional cabling connected to the end of it? Can you have a solid GL extend out 12 to 14 inches?

Actually, can GLs even be put in horizontally to the ground in a limb that runs at an angle (not a huge angle...but enough that when staring at it you wonder)?

What size beam and how far out can flooring go unsupported? (Treehouse in a year with planning ...

no_email@example.com (Gorlag) — Mon, 17 Oct 2011 01:23:09 GMT

I am designing a treehouse from a home owner in WI with construction to begin in the Spring of 2012. The tree is a red oak of at least 150 years. The plans consist of two platforms. The first is about 12' off the ground with the second constructed about 20' from the ground. Question. Each deck will be supported by 2 beams supported by GLs. The beams will be custom made of Douglas Fir. The first set will both need to be 16' long and each is supported on 2 GLs separated by 3.5' (the deck starts where the tree divides in 2). The #2 deck's beams are also supported by 2 GLs each where the tree has divided to 4 limbs. These beams are each 22' long. The GLs for these beams have a spread of 7.5'.

Finally, the question...How thick and how high? 3" * 10"? Do I have to go to 4" beams?

The second question may help with the first. Deck #1's GLed beams will be about 2-2.5 feet apart. If I run 2*6s in the opposite direction for the decking support how far can these extend off the beam and not be supported with cabling from above or knee bracing from below? How far out from well supported beams can decking "hang" with 2*6s?

Re: cutting into tree

no_email@example.com (The Treehouse Guide) — Sat, 08 Oct 2011 10:50:21 GMT

The collar is part of the healing area around the cut off branch, and is living tissue. Damaging it again would not be recommended. Perhaps there is a way the treehouse can be moved away from the area slightly to avoid contact. In any case space should be allowed for the tree to grow wider over time.

If you can post a photo it will make the situation clearer.

cutting into tree (Is it ok to cut a notch out of a tree branch collar?)

no_email@example.com (Tim) — Thu, 06 Oct 2011 21:12:06 GMT

I am building a treehouse and the base butts up to the collar of a branch I have sawn off. Is it ok to cut a small notch out of the collar of this cut off branch? The tree is a mature and healthy Oak.

Thanks, Tim

Re: Lag Bolts - is 1/2" okay?

no_email@example.com (The Treehouse Guide) — Thu, 15 Sep 2011 20:09:05 GMT

No. You would need several of these bolts, which could introduce problems of compartmentalisation. It's also unlikely that they would be strong enough.

The best solution is to use a Garnier Limb or equivalent. You then have just one attachment point for each end of each beam which is better for the tree, and the Garnier Limb allows the tree to grow for a few years before it presses against the supports. They can also be used to hang cables, which are a good way to allow flexibility between trunks. They are quite a bit more expensive than lag bolts, but your treehouse will last a lot longer.

Re: Maximum area with one tree and knee braces.

no_email@example.com (The Treehouse Guide) — Thu, 15 Sep 2011 20:01:02 GMT

You would probably run out of money well before reaching the maximum floor area that a mature tree could hold. You just use bigger and bigger supports for loads of several tons.

Weight limit is dependent on the size of supports and the strength of the attachment points. For a large (ie heavy) treehouse you would need to use Garnier Limbs or equivalent - lag bolts don't have the capacity.

Re: Easier?

no_email@example.com (The Treehouse Guide) — Thu, 15 Sep 2011 19:52:31 GMT

The single tree with knee braces will probably look better in the tree, but overall a two tree treehouse may be better for you.

With two trees you'll get more space, as the trunk doesn't go through the house. This has one big advantage - there'll be no need to seal round a hole in the roof. You would fix the one side of the floor to the larger tree (with knee braces), then use cables for the other tree. This way the large tree provides stability to the house, but the cables prevent damage when the trees move around.

A single tree floor can be held up with four knee braces if it's not too big, though six or eight will spread the load better and will reduce flex in the floor.

The cost comparison depends on your design. The cable system could work out cheaper as you would have less fasteners than with a lot of knee braces. Especially important with cables is to use large bolts (eg 1" diameter) since so much weight is loaded on one or two points.

Easier?

no_email@example.com (0SKS0) — Tue, 13 Sep 2011 21:52:08 GMT

Which one would be easier/more worth it:

Single tree knee braces

or

Two tree cables

Also the cost is a factor

FYI I am 13 years old

Thanks.