The Treehouse Guide News

More Treehouse Pics (topic: Post a picture of your treehouse)

mmbeller191 — Tue, 01 Jul 2008 22:59:02 +0100

my treehouse and your advice pls

Alex F — Tue, 24 Jun 2008 16:12:56 +0100

Hi
This is my incomplete treehouse before and after I addeed posts to give it decent support. I didn't plan the development of the treehouse properly and consequently weigh and support was an after thought. Sadly it don't look nearly so good with these supports. I would have put the supports at an angle but I was concerned that entire tree and hedge which the tree is growing out of might fall in a stong wind. I am wondering wahat the best way to seal the gaps where the branches go through the roof. Any suggestions?

Re: Post a picture of your treehouse

mmbeller191 — Sun, 22 Jun 2008 09:12:27 +0100

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm147/mmbeller191/62108…
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm147/mmbeller191/62108…

Here is my progress so far. The house will be about 40% of the deck, not including the trunk and the rest will be porch.

Re: Water proofing

The Treehouse Guide — Sun, 01 Jun 2008 13:42:19 +0100

It's quite hard to effectively seal the gap between the tree and the roof and walls. One way is to wrap a layer of neoprene or butyl rubber around the trunk, overlapping the roof/wall. The waterproofing material is pressed against the tree with shock cord or other elasticated material. You can add caulking between the wrap and the tree to fill up smaller gaps.

There are two problems with this method. Firstly, as the tree moves and grows, gaps can open up between the sealing materials and the tree, and secondly you need to avoid constricting the year-on-year growth of the tree if the material is fixed too tightly. Using nails to fix the material can introduce weak points or disease into the tree, and the material can't be easily adjusted later. You can use a second layer of waterproofing overlapping the first for extra protection.

Some people allow rain to flow down the trunk, straight through the treehouse and out through the floor. If nothing touches the trunk within the house (eg shingles, rafters, floor), the water usually flows through without making anything wet. Generally your roof supports should not touch the tree anyway, as this can introduce extra movement in the structure under wind loads.

Water proofing

Jerome — Wed, 28 May 2008 06:00:08 +0100

I can't seem to find any information regarding sealing the gap between the roof and any limbs or the trunk of the tree. Can anyone offer me any good solutions?

Thanks,
Jerome
(Australia)

Re: Tree noosed with dog cable

The Treehouse Guide — Tue, 27 May 2008 08:49:24 +0100

If the tree has survived so far you should leave it as it is. If the cable is completely grown over, the new growth will be supplying nutrients and water successfully. Cutting the cable out, even in sections, will cause more damage than good.

Re: Best way to allow tree movement?

bobleblaw — Mon, 26 May 2008 13:11:43 +0100

Sorry forgot to add that the height from the ground to attachment point for tree 'B' is about 1 - 2'.

Best way to allow tree movement? (4 tree layout)

bobleblaw — Mon, 26 May 2008 12:50:19 +0100

Greetings folks.

I've been reading the pages on this terrific site to learn how to safely build a treehouse for my boys. I have a question regarding the best attachment layout (tree movement) to accommodate the desired treehouse.

Attached is a pic that shows the proposed layout and the trees that I have to work with.

Distances from tree to tree and approximate diameters are:

A = 20" Pine
B= 5" Hardwood
C= 12" Hardwod
D= 12" Cedar

A - B =63.5"
A - C =107"
B - D = 90"
C - D = 136"

The trees are located on a slope overlooking a lake.
The slope area is unused for anything else.
The area is subject to strong storm winds during big storms. It is protected from east winds, but is susceptible to storms from other directions.
Side A - B faces east.

I had four J brackets made up as slings aren't really a viable option.
The J brackets were made such that the bottom of the J is oversized (@ 3.5" in depth).
The bracket could hold a double 2 x 10 if needed, but that would only leave about a 1/2" of space for movement.

I guess my question is where is the best position to mount the brackets and should any beams be fixed or should all trees have a J bracket?

Thanks so much.

Tree noosed with dog cable (Live oak tree in danger)

louisianahugger — Sun, 25 May 2008 00:41:03 +0100

Hi all, can someone with any advice please help me to save an oak tree in my yard? I just bought a place that has about a 30+ year old oak on it that has an old dog cable noosed around its base, and has already grown several inches into the bark. How can i cut the cable out without cutting the tree's jugular, if that is the best analogy? For what i know about trees there main circulatory system lies about 2-9" behind the outer bark and if i completely cut around the tree with, say a circular saw, that i am basically cutting its throat. Is this true? How can i cut out the cable? Can i cut through the bark periodically in sections to remove partial cable and then let it grow back before continuing? The cable is very strong and is plastic coated.
Thanks, all...
-Stephen
--Lafayette,LA

Re: MAXIMUM SPAN BEAM SUPPORT

beerobber — Tue, 20 May 2008 17:08:48 +0100

I notice that the diagram shows the fixed support point on the live tree as a fastener drilled through the vertical center of the beam near one end. I studied English literature in college, not structural engineering, so my expertise is limited. However, one of the truths I thought I had learned about load-bearing beams is that if they were fastened in this way, the effective depth of the beam for purposes of calculating load-bearing strength was reduced to the distance between the fastener and the top of the beam. Is this not true, or is there another principle at work?

This question interests me because my treehouse design is much like this one. I am using two live trees, and have sunk a 6x6 in concrete 48 inches deep. I will use 2x10 pressure-treated pine beams 12' in length for the 3 spans. I plan to use J-brackets for flexible joints. As I consider the fixed joints, I have some uncertainty. I can notch the 6x6 so that it fully supports two beam ends, and the lag screws will simply hold the beams in place against side-to-side forces. But how strong is the fixed joint on the live tree if the single lag screw transfers all its gravity force resistance against the top half of the 2x10 beam?

There will be an 8x8-foot cedar-planked deck and a 6x8x5 hut with tar-shingled pitched roof atop it all. I am allowing for 6 children and an occasional adult to be in the structure at the same time. I figure to support 3600 pounds total, 600 pounds for each of the 6 anchor points.

I was thinking of using 4 J brackets for the live tree joints with 3/4"x8" lag screws, then rendering one of the tree-to-tree beam joints "fixed" by screwing 1/2" lag screws into the beam on either side of the bracket. If I'm making needless work for myself, please correct me.

Brackets

mmbeller191 — Sun, 04 May 2008 19:16:13 +0100

I am planning a single trunk treehouse with a 12 X 12 platform of 2 x 6s with 4 x 4 support posts going from each corner of the platform down to the trunk at a 45 degree angle(the whole thing rests on 2x8s). I was hoping to find some metal brackets that would not only help hold the 2x6 beams together in the corner but would also provide support for mounting the 4x4 going down at a 45 degree angle. Also I was hoping to find some L brackets for where the posts meet the trunk so the end grain of the posts wouldn't be fixed directly into the trunk. Does anyone have a source for brackets like these or any better options if these are prohibitively expensive?

Re: Tree House Defined

The Treehouse Guide — Wed, 23 Apr 2008 13:14:58 +0100

The problem here is that in law treehouses are defined differently from place to place. In most cases they are not defined at all.

The first thing to do is find out why your treehouse was defined as an outbuilding, and specifically how the homeowner's association defines an outbuilding. You may find it to be very vague, such as "a building separated from, but associated with, the main building". This could be anything, although usually a building has a permanent foundation.

Are you allowed to put up a shed without permission? What about a children's playhouse that isn't fixed to the ground? A tent? In order to be a building, some might say that the structure would need to have a permanent foundation and that a shed, playhouse or tent would not be covered as they are temporary structures. Your current design has a permanent foundation in the pole fixed in the ground. If you support your treehouse from four posts set on a square frame of timber, the foundation isn't permanent. I know of one treehouse that was exempt from a building permit because it didn't touch the ground and so wasn't a building, as defined in the code.

What are the rules for adding decks? They are not enclosed, unlike buildings, but often have their own regulations and restrictions. If you built a treehouse with no roof it is technically a high deck. If you then put a removable shade over the treehouse, it's still a deck.

You may then come across further restrictions on maximum height for any structure. The term structure includes more than building, eg an aerial or a teepee are both structures but not buildings. You could then be turned down on issues of invasion of privacy of other properties. There are certainly more factors working against you than in your favour. I would say you would need a big change to the design or a precedent of a similar structure that had been granted permission for this to go through successfully.

Tree House Defined (Is a tree house defined as an outbuilding?)

Keith — Sun, 20 Apr 2008 02:42:51 +0100

I live in a subdivision that has a homeowners association. I requested permission from the home owners association to build a treeless tree house. If you are not familiar with this type of a tree house, it is basically a gazabo supported in the air by a utility pole. The structure is 8' x 8' and has a rail around it on all four sides. It has a roof, supported by four corner posts and the pole going up the center. My request was denied stating that "The main reason being is that this project technically is an outbuilding and all outbuildings are strictly prohibited in the subdivision." I'm looking for help (with references) defining the structure correctly so I can make an appeal to the association.

Tyler Arboretum treehouse exhibition - Totally Terrific Treehouses (31 May - 28 September)

The Treehouse Guide — Fri, 11 Apr 2008 09:46:49 +0100

Tyler Arboretum will be opening sixteen treehouses to the publc at the end of May. The structures were designed by local artists and architects.

Further reading
Tyler Arboretum

Longwood Gardens treehouse exhibition - Nature's Castles (25 April - 23 November 2008)

The Treehouse Guide — Fri, 11 Apr 2008 09:41:46 +0100

Longwood Gardens will be opening three treehouses starting at the end of April. The treehouses will be 'The Lookout Loft', 'The Canopy Cathedral' and 'The Birdhouse'. Also in the area, Tyler Arboretum will have a display of sixteen treehouses open throughout the summer.

Meet the treehouse designers for the Longwood Project on 27 April, 11am-2pm.

Further reading
Longwood Gardens is located 30 miles from Philadelphia, PA.

Building a swing in a tree with no branches (topic: How to make a tree swing in a tree with no ...

The Treehouse Guide — Fri, 11 Apr 2008 09:26:04 +0100

Depending on the size of your trees, building an artificial limb supported entirely by the tree may be difficult. The structural problem is not the weight of the swing + child, but for the supports to withstand the back and forth swinging movement. Here are two different approaches.

Using ground support
Fix a 6x6 post 3' or more deep in concrete 6' from the tree. Bolt a horizontal beam between post and tree. Fix 45º bracing to the post to resist the pendulum motion of the swing. Alternatively, make a triangular support with two 6x6s set in concrete at 60º. Where they meet at the top fix the beam to the tree.

Using the tree for support
Fit two 8' beams radiating out from the tree at 60º to each other, supported on 45º braces. Attach another beam between the ends to support the swing, and add bracing between the first two beams for rigidity. The swing goes in and out towards the tree so no sideways motion is created.

How to make a tree swing in a tree with no horizontal limbs?

mikesarabranson — Thu, 10 Apr 2008 23:44:19 +0100

We have a six year old son who REALLY wants a tree swing in the back yard. I would love to make this happen for him, as I had one as a child and have some great memories associated with it. Trouble is, none of our mature trees have anything even close to a horizontal limb to hang a swing from. I'd like to hear any ideas anyone might have for creating an economical, aesthetically pleasing, and structurally sound "prosthetic limb" that can be attatched to the trunk of our single existing tree and support the weight and movement of a child swinging from it, without killing the tree (or the child) in the process. Any help is appreciated!

Re: Cheap materials

Ben — Sun, 06 Apr 2008 15:23:02 +0100

This is a rather late reply it would seem, but I've only just read this.

Skips are perfect as was said, but also there tends to be a lot of waste on building sites that people working there take home and avoids the skip. If you get to know site managers you can get a lot from there. for this treehouse the budget is currently around 35 quid (excluding planning permission application), and everything bar some nails/wood preservative and rope has been found for free, which includes the double glazing windows, wooden pylons, as well as all the roofing felt and thatch. (not in photo). A lot of business's will not let you go through there skips for health and safety reasons, so you should always take gloves and general protection so they can't use that excuse.

When looking for skips, I tend to find the best ones are where people are converting houses into open-plan.

Ash Tree (topic: Tree types)

nyc534 — Fri, 28 Mar 2008 00:51:12 +0100

Hi all,

I have a large Ash Tree (50' +) near a swing/slide set that has a platform, and I am interested in building across the span to the ash to a tree house there. I am pretty comfortable with all sorts of tools, and have done pretty major house renovations, but I am concerned about the possibility of damage due to sway. The top of the tree can sway pretty significantly in the wind, and I'm looking at building about 8' to 10' off the ground (it's on a side slope). The tree itself seems healthy, and the way I envision the house is hanging off one side, wrapping about 2/3 the way around the tree. Two major branches on the bottom would support the platform - one crossing over to a 6x6 post of the playset. One corner of a vaguely triangular shape would be knuckled, or perhaps cabled. Given what I have been reading about the possibility of tremendous forces, is this even possible? Or am I simply going to build an elaborate pile of crushed lumber at the bottom of a tree?

I'll try and figure out how to upload some photos so you can see what I have in mind.

Many thanks,
Tony M.

Re: 3/8" lag bolts enough?

The Treehouse Guide — Thu, 27 Mar 2008 08:32:04 +0100

A harder species tends to be stronger at resisting deformation from bolts. With any treehouse the goal is to have a fastener that is being used well within its limits, even in the worst case scenario of a heavy storm hitting the treehouse.

Bolt failure is a combination of thread strength (pull-out resistance) and shear. This is compounded by the fact that there will always be small amounts of movement in the supports which put extra load on the bolt, and the fact that the tree itself will deform as the joint fails. The ideal bolt is rigid enough to resist bending along its length, long enough to reach deep into the tree and has suitable threads to hold it there.

Bolting through the tree removes the pull out risk but the bolt can still bend and shear so you need to use the same thickness of bolt (3/4"+).

It is well worth over-building the hardware side of a treehouse, considering the small extra cost and significant safety issues.

Re: 3/8" lag bolts enough?

NaviGator — Fri, 21 Mar 2008 22:36:12 +0100

would a more dense/hard tree sepcies, such as an oak, be more or less suitable in an application such as this? Also, angular load ratings for shouldered eye bolts/eye lags should be less than what would expected for a lag, right, because the point of "stress" is farther from the tree? If I bolt all the way through the tree would that be stronger? (ie. is the problem with the lag bolt pulling out or is it with the bolt shearing/breaking off?) Thanks for all your help.

Re: 3/8" lag bolts enough?

The Treehouse Guide — Fri, 21 Mar 2008 22:12:54 +0100

There are not really any fixed rules for bolt sizes in treehouses, because with variations of tree density, load angle and movement it is hard to predict what will happen to a bolt under load. Another important consideration is that only one bolt should be used at each attachment point, to avoid problems of compartmentalisation.

Generally I recommend using at least a 3/4" bolt to allow plenty of extra strength. For angular loads like this, 1" would be a good choice. The Garnier Limb is usually built at 1 1/4" diameter and is testing at 4000lbs in Douglas-fir.

I do think that there are some useful items to be found in the climbing world. It would be possible to drill the pictured device to take a 3/4" bolt, but this would reduce the effective load it would take by an unknown degree. A bracket with more surrounding steel would be better for a custom treehouse bracket, or you could have one made/make your own to a similar design from 1/4" steel plate. A short piece of square section galvanised steel would also be suitable.

3/8" lag bolts enough?

NaviGator — Fri, 21 Mar 2008 18:18:29 +0100

I am looking to build a two tree treehouse that will be roughly a 10' x 10' platform with a 7' x 7' enclosed area. I am estimating that it will weigh around 2,500 lbs. (without children). Instead of using knee braces, I would like to suspend the beams from cables just like that shown in the Supports Tutorial

I understand that this design would normally use shouldered eye bolts in the tree but I have found some bolt hangers used in rock climbing that may work (see below). That are steel and are rated at 5,000 lbs. and accept a 3/8" bolt. My question is whether this size bolt will be sufficient is using this type of hanger.

Thanks a bunch for your input.

Salvaging an old treehouse (topic: Need opinion on a good deal or not)

The Treehouse Guide — Thu, 20 Mar 2008 13:57:25 +0100

If the timber is in good condition, this looks like an excellent deal, especially if you're going to build a treehouse yourself with the wood.

You should take a look at the treehouse before you commit to the deal to check that it is still sound and worth your time taking apart. The first places to go are areas where water can accumulate, leading to rot. This includes the floor, base of the walls and windows and the posts holding the floor up. The posts may have been treated to make them last longer, but sometimes their condition isn't obvious because the rot starts below ground level. If the posts are mounted in metal fixtures in a concrete base they are likely to be in better condition - this arrangement lets rainwater run off and allows the post to dry out.

Taking the treehouse apart depends on the methods used to put it up. Anything that was nailed together should be easy to knock apart with a heavy hammer. Use a block of wood as cushioning to avoid damaging the salvage material. If possible, try to release complete sections, as this will save time and make re-assembly easier. You can re-inforce sections by screwing lengths of wood diagonally across them. If the treehouse was originally pre-fabricated before being put in the tree, it should come apart in wall sections which can be stacked for transportation. Sometimes it's quickest to just cut right through a section and re-build it later; be very careful for nails, screws and staples that may be hidden in the wood. Get someone to remove any exposed nails as you go along, saving your hands and vehicle from nasty scratches.

The shingles on the roof will probably need to be removed individually, but they will be worth the extra time to recover. Start at the top and try to hammer them out from the inside of the treehouse to avoid splitting the wood. In your own treehouse design, make sure the shingles are visible - if the roof is out of sight then shingle the walls instead and use a simpler roofing material. You may need to buy new flooring material if the original is showing its age, but you should be able to re-use a lot of the support timbers. Apple trees tend to have fairly small branches, so re-building on posts will give you more options and floorspace.

Good luck and let us know how you get on!

Need opinion on a good deal or not (a tree house for $200)

cadencesdad — Mon, 17 Mar 2008 23:09:45 +0100

Hey guys, I'm new to all this, and could use some advise. I found this on a local classifieds site, and it looks like alot of pricey lumber, for a cheap price. I have a single, decent sized Apple tree in my back yard, and would like to build my kids a treehouse. My question is.....

Is this a good deal for whats offered? and what is salvagable, and what is not? Hows the best way to dismantle it? And any tips on things to beware of, and to look out for when dismantling it?

http://www.ksl.com/?nid=218&ad=2824804&cat=&lp…

Thanks for any tips guys.

Yours truly: The rookie.

Photos of the first treehouse (topic: Development of a Costa Rica tree house community)

The Treehouse Guide — Fri, 14 Mar 2008 11:25:53 +0100

Photos of the first treehouse are now on Finca Bellavista's website.

Re: Wicking Problem

The Treehouse Guide — Mon, 10 Mar 2008 17:44:31 +0100

There are a few different ways that the inside could be getting wet. The first is if the metal edging does not fit under the siding, allowing rain to run down between the metal and siding. For wicking to occur you will be getting quite a bit of water on the platform, so there's a leak somewhere. The alternative is that the rain is being wind blown through the siding (if lapped), forcing it through to the inside. Ideally you should have deep eaves on your treehouse to keep rain away from the walls, though this won't help much in strong wind.

If you can send a couple of photos (either directly in a reply or via e-mail from the contact page) it might be easier to see what's going on.

At this stage, it seems you will need more of a physical barrier than caulking, as this may still leave the platform wet. In any case you should try to get the area dried out to prevent rot setting in. It might be worth tarping over the wall for now.

Wicking Problem

Liam Mooney — Mon, 10 Mar 2008 15:38:08 +0100

Hi My family and I are building a treehouse but have run into a problem.
We have a 3 tree design with multiple posts. However, on the two sides with trees, the trees grew slightly in, so we decided to move those two side's walls in 2'', leaving an edge on the bottom platform. In order to stop water from ruining the siding, we rose the siding up about an inch and a half, and put a metal dripedge attached to the siding and over the edge of the platform. We thought this would be enough, but somehow the inside walls were still getting wet, up to a foot up the wall, and there was also a little wetness on the floor. A friend told us this was because of wicking, where water would fall down the outside, and get sucked into the wood and up again.

My solution was just putting in a water-proof caulking into the gap, however i still have my doubts. What other options are there? Thanks for your help.

Re: Supporting trees damaged in a windstorm

The Treehouse Guide — Mon, 11 Feb 2008 16:30:32 +0100

Certain trees can regenerate if the top is broken - do you know what species of tree they are?

If you can add a photo of the treehouse and trees it will be easier to imagine what you could do.

Even if the trees both die, they will remain structurally sound until the wood rots, which could take years, again depending on species. You may be able to use cable supports back to the sound trees as a less visual way to avoid the need for posts. You could also use a large through bolt in each of the dying trees to hang cables from, or supplement the existing support bolts. Assuming that you are currently using lag bolts, a through bolt with large washers will last longer before losing grip and will work as a useful backup in case the current bolts fail. Knee braces back to the sound trees will also take some of the weight off the dying trees.

Supporting trees damaged in a windstorm

PamT — Sun, 10 Feb 2008 14:17:24 +0100

Hi,
We built a nice 8x10 tree house last year complete with real windows, a small deck, and nice stair case with railings. We were in the process of adding electricity to the house, along with some drywall inside, when we were hit with a severe windstorm which caused the top of one of the four supporting trees to snap off. This large branch/trunk fell on another of the trees and snapped the top of that tree as well. So, now our tree house is supported by two strong, healthy trees, and two trees with no tops (or branches). Without branches or leaves, I know these trees will soon die.
What should we do? Is there any way to preserve these trees and continue to use them as supports? I would hate to replace them with pressure-treated posts set in concrete as that will take away from the "nature" feel of the tree house.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Pam