Hi Roger-

What’s the best way to keep my driveway and walkways safe in the winter without damaging the ecosystem around my home?

The traditional salt application is a simple, cheap and effective way to eliminate ice in your driveways and sidewalks but it does have its drawbacks. It’s corrosive and can irritate your skin and your pets’ paws. It also ends up making its way into groundwater, altering its chemistry. If you have plants and grass near heavily treated areas, they can also be collateral damage.

I would have two suggestions for someone looking for alternatives—one would be to blend your salt/ ice melt with sand to lower the salt burden and add some traction to your driveways. Also, there are some more earth friendly alternative ice melts out there. I’ve noticed “Safe Paw” mentioned multiple times by our clients. I’ve also seen some other, unusual ideas to naturally remove ice including alfalfa and beet juice!

-Roger

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Hi Roger-

I was walking through a public park and noticed these rose plants had been buried. What’s the deal?

Excellent question- you must be in an area that can have chilly winters and yes, this can look a bit odd! Depending on the species, roses can be susceptible to cold and frost. An easy solution is to provide insulation for the wintertime and one common way is to use soil/compost to build a “blanket” around the plant. You can also find man-made rose “guards” at your local home and garden centers. It looks like this park is doing it the old fashion way. Another tip to get roses ready for the winter is to make sure you cut off any fertilizer treatments in late summer so the plant is properly dormant when winter arrives.

-Roger

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Hi Roger-

My wife wants to cut back a overgrown arborvitae in the winter. Now my problem is will it ever grow back to its original shape?

Arborvitaes are fantastic screening plants. They are also pretty tough and can tolerate pruning. Just keep in mind, a little goes a long way- I wouldn’t remove more than say 20% at one time. Because Arborvitae is a conifer, it generally will not produce new growth from the older wood – so make sure you stay within the “live” area foliage.

Arborvitae has a fun backstory- the “Tree of Life” in Latin got its nickname because malnourished explorers would use the needles to make “tea” that provided the Vitamin C necessary to ward off scurvy!

-Roger

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Hi Roger-

I’m curious to know when’s the best time of year to plant hydrangeas?

Thanks!

–

I’m not sure what climate you live in but, the goal is to avoid extreme heat or frost. Your best bet is Fall or early Spring (when you sure the risk of frost has passed). Once the Hydrangea’s root system is more established, it will be much more prepared to deal with weather-related stress.

It’s important to remember that hydrangeas are sensitive to pH- for example, hydrangeas have an amazing deep blue color on Cape Cod where I spend the summer- this is because the soil tends to run at a higher acidity.

Fun fact about hydrangeas- in some Asian cultures, they use hydrangeas for herbal teas.

-Roger

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Hi Roger-

We really miss you on TOH. Wish you lived here in Tucson, AZ. I have lots and lots of questions, but my biggest one is this: How to politely ask/tell the neighbor that they need to trim/thin and take the branch hanging over my fence before the tree splits and falls – possibly killing somebody. Hope you are taking care of yourself – health is most important after 21, you know!

Stay safe. enjoy retirement!

Gil-

Hi Gil-

Thanks for writing in! Laws about trees and other people’s property vary by state. For example, in Massachusetts if your neighbor’s tree has limbs that encroach on your lawn you have the legal right to have them trimmed without asking their permission. However, I always encourage good communication between neighbors. Also, in Massachusetts if a neighbor’s tree falls onto your lawn is it then considered “your” tree. You should check your local laws regarding this before proceeding.

All of this being said, the quickest way to get this taken care of is to offer to pay for the work. Most people are happy to accommodate a friendly request from their neighbor if it doesn’t cost them anything! Good luck!

-Roger

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Dear Roger-

How do you prevent the yellowing of the grass from male dog urine?

-Joe

Dear Joe-

Thanks for writing in. Teach the dog not to urinate on the grass! But seriously, assuming that’s not possible the other option is to install a special kind of artificial dog turf in one area of the yard. Depending on where you live, heating the turf will make them want to urinate in that space and save your grass from the larger spray of male dogs that affects more of the grass.

-Roger

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While I’m sure you get a lot of these notes – as you should – we wanted to ensure that you heard from us personally. You’ve built a great company and team that you should be proud of. Well done!

We hope you and your family are well and stay safe. Please pop round if/when you can to wallow in the outcome and explore the greenhouse

Kind regards,
James and Julia

PS – our neighbors and random passers by have expressed their positive voices on the outcome also.

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Hello Roger-

I recall seeing Roger on an episode of This Old House where he was speaking with a homeowner about ways to repel deer.

He mentioned an egg based spray that lasts for 8 – 10 weeks. Could you please provide me with the name of the product/manufacturer?

Can you recommend an equally long lasting spray to deter rabbits?

Thank you so much,

-Jeanne aka Frustrated in Framingham

Dear Frustrated-

Deer are beautiful creatures, but not when they’re ravaging your plants! There is an egg-based product called Deer Out that we use for our customers. They also make a product called Critter Out that you can try on the rabbits. I’ve been known to chuck a Miller Lite can at some critters in my own yard to scare them off because I would never want to hurt them but the Deer and Critter Out is more effective and less of a waste of a delicious beverage. Good luck!

-Roger

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But as Roger says, he’s “not going anywhere” and we at K&R Landscape are here to attest to that. He will still be bossing us around and bringing his sense of humor and compassion to the K&R team and his family.

Likewise, our presence won’t go missing from This Old House, as K&R Landscape will continue to do the legwork for Roger’s replacement, Jenn Nawada. The staff of K&R look forward to working with Jenn Nawada of Nawada Landscape Design in the future on This Old House and Ask This Old House job sites.

For more information about Roger’s departure from This Old House, read the press release.

If you want to keep up with all that is happening with Roger and our team check back here often!

-Carey Sue Barney
COO, K&R Landscape

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We have an area shaded by an oak tree (55-60 feet high, and similar width of branches). In the shaded area that is about 15 feet circular around the base of the tree, grass will not grow. We have planted grass at least 10 times , once each year, with no success. Areas beyond the 15 foot circle have grass.

Is there something better to do than plant seed for grass. We have had the soil tested and have added the ingredients that the Ohio State University Soil Conservation recommended, but this did not let us grow new grass. We live in North East Ohio in a snow belt area. Is there anything better we can do or plant in this area?

-Andy C.
Concord Township, Ohio

Andy-

Thanks for reaching out! Sadly, grass will not grow under large oaks due to lack of sunlight and root competition, even if you’re using a shaded seed. We recommend choosing an alternative ground cover that is zoned for Ohio, such as vinca pachysandra ferns or ivy, as well as mulching. It won’t be grass, but it will eliminate the unattractive, patchy grass and dirt you’re experiencing now, and help beautify your yard.

I hope this is helpful!

-Roger

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Dear Roger-

I am a new home owner and have never had to take care of a lawn before. I know every yard is different dependent on climate but do you have a basic lawn care plan to use as a template for someone like me, just starting out?

-David J.
Concord, MA

Dear David-

To your point, indeed, every lawn has different needs and I always recommend that you have a professional landscaper come at least a few times of year to do some maintenance. However, some people can’t afford to have a professional service come every week or just enjoy taking care of things to themselves. The following is a basic lawn care guide for the beginner.

1. In Spring, walk around the property and look for any big branches or debris that need to be removed.
2. If you are walking on the lawn and it seems soft, delay working on the lawn because it could cause damage.
3. If there are any pieces of grass that have been dug up by a plow, you should try to put them back in place and lightly tamp down.
4. If it is dry enough, rake the lawn.
5. Then decide what you are putting down for fertilizer: either regular lawn fertilizer or crabgrass control fertilizer.
6. If you only have a few weeds growing in the lawn during the growing season, you can hand-remove them rather than spreading herbicide over the whole lawn.
7. Once the lawn is growing and reaches 3″ in height, cut it, bagging it to compost in the yard or dispose of it offsite.
8. Watering should be done so that the lawn gets one inch of water per week spread out evenly into 3 watering sessions.
9. Make sure sprinkler heads are adjusted so they don’t throw water on walkways and driveways. Watering should be done early in the morning to diminish evaporation.
10. Generally, lawns are cut weekly, reducing the length from 3″ to 2.”
11. Edge all beds and move remnants to compose pile. Do not put them in the bed. After edging, clean old mulch out of beds and move to compost pile, and re-mulch with 1-3″ thick of new mulch. Do not create
    “mulch volcanoes.”
12. In the early Fall, apply an appropriate fertilizer for the current condition and time of year. Early Fall is the perfect time to reseed the lawn.
13. In late Fall, rake leaves. Using a blue tarp simplifies collecting and transporting leaves to the compost pile.
14. Aerate lawn.
15. After aerating, this is a good time to spread compost on the top of the lawn and apply a Fall fertilizer.
16. The last cutting will be cut to 2.”

-Roger

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Carol and Paul McIver
Winchester, MA

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In the meantime, a great opportunity awaits someone looking to purchase a historic home belonging to one of America’s most famous and revered historians. Read the full article below:

https://realestate.boston.com/home-of-the-week/2019/08/07/historian-kearns-goodwin-closes-chapter-lists-house/

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Aubrey Mancke
Bedford, MA

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Dear Roger-

I just reset my walkway pavers (S+H), I had to do this because of mole tunneling beneath. Do I have to fill in “grout” spaces with sand? I kind of like it bare.

Just wondering,
-Hans Moleman

Dear Moleman-

Moles and other animals can be quite destructive for landscaping. Our advice would be to to fill in the joint 1/2-2/3 with polymeric sand or brick sand just to keep insects or even the moles out.

– Roger Cook

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Jeff B.
Suburban Boston

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Dear Roger-

I live next to a seasonal wetlands that began flooding a couple of years ago because of inappropriate construction. Never needed pumps until this. Neighbor won’t help/ take responsibility for water invading my cellar even though this started happening after their completed construction. No idea how to handle this. Suggestions???

Many thanks.
-Waterlogged

Dear Waterlogged-

We suggest you start with contacting the Department of Public Works, Department of Engineering and/or the Conservation Department for you municipality. If the wetlands you mentioned are protected property there are guidelines and permits required with regards to construction around or near them to prevent just such issues. Good luck!

– Roger Cook

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