How to Install CHDK Software Using ACID

Today I’ll be updating one of my most popular posts with a new video tutorial. The CHDK, or Canon Hack Development Kit, is a small piece of free software that adds additional features to most Canon Powershot cameras. For our purposes, installing CHDK is the first and main step to installing a time-lapse interval program. An ultra intervalometer tutorial will follow, so check back in the next couple weeks or subscribe to receive future tutorials.

Since my first CHDK post in 2009, my Powershot S3 IS has been replaced by a series of newer Powershots. Today I’ll be using the popular SX260 HS. There have also been updates to installation software that make it much easier to install CHDK. For this tutorial, I’ll use the Automatic Camera Identifier and Downloader software, or ACID, and Windows Installer for CHDK and SDM, or WICKS. These tools replace the need to install firmware checking software on an SD card before downloading the appropriate version of CHDK. They should also format your card and install CHDK with very little user input. There are similar tools for Macs and Ubuntu on the links provided.

Before I begin, I should mention I tried two other methods to install CHDK before finding this software. While ACID might not work for every Powershot camera, it’s surprisingly easy and a good place to start. Also note I’m using a 2GB memory card to avoid the additional step of partitioning. CHDK requires partitions for any card over 4GB. Because I shoot in jpeg on my Powershot, I’ve never felt it necessary to use a card bigger than this. The ACID and WICKS software should make partitioning easy but I’ve never tried it.

Prepare the SD card

I’ll begin by taking a photo with my Powershot and uploading the photo to my computer. I like to format the memory card to begin with a blank slate and because formatting is part of the process anyway. (Click any photo in this tutorial for a larger image.)

Run ACID

Next, I’ll download ACID and WICKS. ACID requires Java Runtime 1.4 or later. You probably already have this installed because it’s fundamental background software for most modern computers.

Unzip the ACID file and look for the “acid” executable jar file. Double click to start ACID. Now, drag and drop your photo into ACID or use the “Browse Jpegs” button to find it. With any luck, ACID will be able to tell you the firmware version and know what software to download. Here I can see my SX260 is running version 100c. For now, the SX260 only has an early stage CHDK alpha build, but I’ll click “Download stable CHDK” anyway to download it. There are a few quirks because it’s alpha stage software but I haven’t had any problems with it.

Run WICKS

Once ACID gives the “Files successfully extracted” message, unzip WICKS. Again, I’ll look for the executable jar file. Because I’m not using an administrative user account, I’ll also have to use the “wix” Windows Command script and enter my computer’s admin password. WICKS automatically scans your card to see if you need a partition. Because I don’t, I can make sure everything looks good and change “Don’t copy files” to “Copy all files from” in the dropdown menu. ACID already downloaded the necessary files to the ACID folder, so I’ll change the file location to the “sx260hs-100c” folder just downloaded to ACID in the “Stable CHDK” folder and click “Prepare Card.”

Eject the card and use

WICKS should now say “Card has been successfully prepared – lock before use!” Now I just eject the card, flip the tiny lock slider, and put it back in my camera. I use the play button on my camera to activate CHDK but this differs between models. Try using the special function button if you have one or check out the CHDK wiki for model specific configurations.

Once my camera shows the “alt” text at the bottom, I can press the normal menu button and find a new set of options such as shooting in RAW or loading scripts. To end the special operations menu, I simply press the play button again. To view files, I now have to long press the play button or eject the memory card and unlock the slider.

Have fun experimenting with your new menu items. If you have a question, please leave a comment below. I’m not a CHDK expert but I’ll try to help or let someone else answer. Good luck!

The following is a list of the equipment I use because readers are always interested.  I’ve linked each title to the Amazon page where appropriate because I bought most of these on Amazon and because anything you purchase after clicking a link helps support my efforts to create high quality tutorials.

I considered pointing out equipment I own that was a waste of money but decided the list of good equipment is long enough and more useful.  My rule of thumb is low prices usually equal low quality in photography.  Low quality means wasting time and money.  If you have any questions, you can reach me through my contact form.

My Cameras

Canon 60D – As a still camera, the 60D is good for the serious hobbiest or entry-level professional.  For time-lapse, however, I feel the 60D is easily within the professional level.  Some of my favorite videos were made from 60D photos.  If money isn’t a concern, you can get incrementally better results from the Canon 7D or 5D mk. III.  Massive resolution might be important for large prints but your videos won’t exceed 1920 x 1080 pixels if you’re shooting for HD time-lapse.

Canon PowerShot SX260 HS – The SX260 HS is my backup camera and what I use to make HD videos of my main camera. I picked it because it’s a Canon, because I can install CHDK on it, because it has full manual mode, and because it got good reviews. I plan to use it for longer time-lapses, such as plants blooming, that would monopolize my main camera for weeks.

Canon S3 IS – This camera is outdated and I rarely use it.  When I do, it’s usually for the macro function.  This camera’s close up mode is so good I’ve actually photographed pollen resting on the lens.  For a serious point-and-shoot with 50x optical zoom and manual functions, consider the newest model in the S-series line, the SX50 HS.

My Software

Adobe CS6 Production Premium – This pack includes Photoshop Extended, After Effects, Premiere Pro, Illustrator, and a bunch of other software at a high price point.  The student version is identical but about $1000 less.  The only catch is you need to be a currently enrolled student or teacher. If you’re not a student, consider taking a photography class at your local community college in the evenings for a discounted price, which is what I did.

Lightroom – I can’t recommend this software highly enough.  It makes file management and batch editing a breeze even with hundreds of photos.  Lightroom doesn’t have the number of options available as Photoshop but it has all the basics you’ll need for RAW conversion such as temperature adjust, lens correction, spot removal, and contrast controls.  As with CS6 Production Premium, the student and teacher version is cheaper than the regular version.  A big bonus for time-lapse photographers is its integration with LRTimelapse.  I use Lightroom in every post production workflow.

LRTimelapse – As the name suggests, LRTimelapse is software built for editing time-lapse sequences in Lightroom.  Until someone makes a similar product, this software will be the best way to make day-to-night time-lapse videos.  LRTimelapse works by gradually adjusting settings such as temperature and exposure.  A sample workflow is to shoot in aperture priority mode, adjust five evenly spaced images in Lightroom, and then have LRTimelapse adjust all the photos in between.  Without this software, good day-to-night shots with light temperature control are almost impossible.  If you already have Lightroom, consider trying the trial version of LRTimelapse.  Like all software made for a limited audience, this software isn’t as user friendly as the big names.  You’ll almost definitely have to use a tutorial the first time.  The price is also high for anyone who wants to use it for professional work.  At the time of writing, the professional license costs around $338.

QuickTime Pro - I use this app despite my general disdain for it.  It’s a fast, relatively cheap way to turn photos into a time-lapse video using industry standard settings and compression.  It’s not at all intuitive and will hopefully be replaced soon.  I have a QuickTime time-lapse tutorial that covers the basics and some pitfalls.

VirtualDub - This free software for PC’s is my go-to solution when I want to quickly see how photos from my most recent shoot look.  It’s bare bones software but good enough for entry level work or to avoid using slower but more powerful software.  If you’re interested, one of my most popular tutorials is how to use VirtualDub for time-lapse.

My Lenses

Canon EF-S 18-55mm – This is a good main lens for any EF-S mount series camera (full list).  The Canon 60D’s crop factor means I can use this lens for most landscapes.  The minimum f/3.5 isn’t as fast as I’d like but it’s a good lens for the price.

Tamron AF 10-24mm – I want to mention this lens although I’ve only ever rented it.  This is my absolute favorite lens for my Canon 60D but they also make a Nikon version.  It retails for around $500, so I can’t justify buying it since my next camera will likely be full sensor.  Instead, I rent it from BorrowLenses.com.  I like this lens so much because it’s the widest angle I can get without going fisheye.  I used this lens to capture all the Milky Way shots in my Yosemite video.

Odds and Ends

NEEWER Timer Remote Control RS-60E3 - This intervalometer works with my Canon 60D just as well as the $100 models made by Canon.  For a breakdown of what an intervalometer is and what it does, check out my intervalometer post.

Grey Card Set – This cheap set of grey cards is essential for anyone shooting RAW.  Take a photo of the cards at the beginning of your sequence to easily adjust white balance in post processing.  The only reason I don’t use these cards more is because I like shooting at night when they’re less useful because of competing light sources.

SanDisk Extreme 32GB Memory Card – This isn’t my only memory card but it’s my favorite and the only type I’d buy in the future.  High speed might seem odd for time-lapse but many of my shoots quickly overwhelm my camera’s buffer.  Additionally, I’ve used slightly cheaper SDHC cards with decent results during photoshoots that froze when I shot in live HD video.  I prefer 32GB because it gives me enough photos for three 10 second videos at 30fps with a little extra room.  The 64GB version is fine but I don’t like trusting more than three shots to one card.

Battery Grip with Extra Batteries – This battery grip is made specifically for the Canon 60D.  It might work on other cameras but I’m not sure.  In contrast to my cheap=bad theory, this Canon knockoff worked well on a trip to Yosemite and has given me hours of shooting time in chilly temperatures.  I also like that I can use AA batteries with the included adapter.  A big box of AAs calms my fears of running out of power on backcountry trips.

Slik Sprint Pro II Tripod – This tripod’s best feature is how light it is.  It has a quick release ball head for fast leveling and costs under $100.  For time-lapse, I should probably have gone with a heavier, more stable unit.  Unfortunately, increased stability in tripods usually go along with increased cost.  A good video tripod might offer great stability but cost over $1000.  Unlike other items on this page, I’d highly recommend buying a tripod at a local store so you can find one that feels good and has the right features.

Thermaltake BlacX eSATA USB Docking Station – What’s the downside to having 32 GB memory cards?  Lots and lots of files taking up hard drive space.  My solution is the BlacX hard drive dock, aka “the toaster.”  This docking station lets me plug in and store to hard drive the way I used to save to floppy disks.  The format might not be as safe as encased external storage but it lets me use any eSATA hard drive without effort.

WD Green 1.5 TB Hard Drive – One of these bad boys can hold 46 full uploads from a 32 GB memory card.  I keep one in my computer and one in the toaster.  The rest of my space is made up of older hard drives that I pull from computers or buy for cheap.

Intervalock - This is a sleeve I use for my intervalometer.  Check out my video review for more details.  Intervalock currently sells for $16.

Books

Pro Photographer’s D-SLR Handbook – This is a great book that goes over everything you need to know about your D-SLR camera.  It’s full of wonderful, full color images that explain the principals of digital photography and how to make the most of your camera.  Unlike most items on this page, I didn’t buy this through Amazon.  I used my local bookstore in San Francisco, Green Apple Books, to buy it.  It’s the best used and new bookstore I’ve ever seen and worth checking out if you’re in the bay area.

Adobe Photoshop for Photographers – Remember how I said I took a photography class that let me buy discounted student software?  Well, this is the textbook.  And at $33, this might be the cheapest textbook I’ve ever bought.  So far, the book is easy to follow and doesn’t assume any previous knowledge of photo editing.

Time-Lapse Photography – I bought and downloaded this book last year to see if it was worth recommending.  I’m happy to say that it covers the basics of time-lapse more thoroughly than any other book I’ve seen.  You can read my full write up if you’re interested.

AIRNow.gov

This site is run by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and collects information from many regional sources and even Canada. My favorite feature is the Visibility Cameras link in the bottom right of the front page. This leads to a list of webcams with live views from around the country. Some of the cameras even offer historical examples of what to expect on clear and hazy days.

This information is worth a peek the next time you’re headed out for a day of shooting or scheduling a trip to a national park. We all know to check for clouds, fog, rain, and snow, but air quality is perhaps even more important. I’ve captured some great shots in many different weather conditions but haze and smog almost always leave me disappointed.

AIRNow also offers Android and iPhone apps for free with national maps and regional information.

A few weeks ago I mentioned Intervalock, the sleeve for time-lapse intervalometers.  Someone from Intervalock was kind enough to send me a sample.  After using it for a little while, I can definitely say that it will find its way into my equipment whenever I go out.  The video shows how to use the sleeve and a couple adaptations I’ve made to the suggested set up.  In short, the Intervalock keeps my timer from moving while looking professional.  The only problems were that my tripod can’t be stored with the Intervalock in its recommended configuration and that the strap inhibits the remote shutter lock button when put on too high.  If you’re interesting in learning more about Intervalock, visit their website.

Update:  Some of my concerns are addressed on Intervalock’s video page.  Someone from the company pointed out my tripod has foam pads and a large tightening screw (both true) and that their design will work better on other tripods.

No. 2 Pen also suggested a post about Groundhog Day. I think this could be an interesting prompt for a time-lapse video if you base it on the Bill Murray movie.  Maybe a month’s worth of sunsets or daily commutes in different weather conditions.

Time-Lapse Jargon Defined

Moco – Short for “motion control,” which involves using a machine to slowly move a camera between shots.

Intervalometer – A fancy word for a timer that attaches to your camera. See “Everything You Need to Know about Intervalometers.”

Dragging the Shutter – A technique of taking long exposures to avoid closing the shutter for too long between shots. This often adds motion blur to avoid choppiness.

Shooting Wide Open – Adjusting your aperture to the widest setting. There are several reasons you might want to do this, such as wanting more light, limiting your depth of field, avoiding a star burst effect on lights, or minimizing flicker in the final video.

ND Filter – Short for “Neutral Density Filter.” In theory, this filter lets you limit the amount of light hitting your sensor without changing any colors. ND filters are often used to “drag the shutter” in bright conditions.

HDR – Short for “High Dynamic Range.” This technique merges multiple exposures in order to show more detail than what’s available in a single shot. When done lightly, the technique is hardly noticeable. When overdone, the final photo can look garish and cartoon-like.

Tilt-Shift – Another photography effect often used in time-lapse. Tilt-shift limits focus to a small section of a photograph and can often make the subject look like it was photographed in macro.

1080p – Stands for 1920 x 1080 progressive scan, the current standard of HDTV.

Telescope mount (aka Azimuth mount) – Originally used to automatically track celestial objects across the sky, telescope mounts also work to slowly rotate a camera during a shoot.

Stepper motor – A type of motor that divides rotation into intervals, or steps. The advantage of this is movement can be precisely programmed and controlled.

Arduino – A cheap microcontroller that can be used with stepper motors.

Hyperlapse – A new name for creating a stop motion video or time-lapse by walking and taking pictures of a fixed subject.

CHDK – Short for “Canon Hack Development Kit.”  This software works with many Canon Powershots and expands existing capabilities.

Copyright by Moyan Brenn

With the long winter nights and cold conditions starting to drag out in much of the northern hemisphere, I thought I’d share some winter time-lapse videos to inspire your own.  It’s not easy standing in the snow for hours and protecting your camera from the elements but we have these videos because of some intrepid photographers.  Let me know in the comments if there’s a great video I missed or feel free to link to your own winter video. I’ve never seen snow in San Francisco so my own holiday video lacks some of the winter magic.

What’s 4K TV?

The current standard of HDTV is 1080p, or 1920×1080 pixels. By comparison, the 4K format uses 3840×2160 pixels. As you can see from the rough diagram, this is much bigger than anything currently available.

At current TV sizes, 1080p is about as much detail as we can discern from across the room on a 42″ TV. As TVs get bigger (and don’t they always?) we’ll have to use a higher density pixel format to avoid losing detail. 4K is supposed to be the answer to this problem.

But Will We Use It?

There are some strong indicators that say we’ll use 4K as a standard format sometime in the near future. First is the size. The 4K aspect ratio has almost become standardized among many manufacturers, which means limited production can start without fear of competing standards.

The second is availability of cameras. There are several professional grade cameras that can record in full 4K. Even the GoPro HERO3 Black Edition has a 4K mode, albeit at a slow 15fps.

Third is the availability of 4K televisions. There have been a couple of TVs in the $20k range, but the price is expected to drop quickly, just like with HDTV. The latest CES show featured even more TVs and promised lower prices.

The Problems

There’s a very real technical problem of simply finding a way to deliver such an enormous file. We can stream a movie onto an HDTV at 720p without noticing much of a difference, but how does a company deliver 4K content over the internet? What type of compression would work the best? And will internet service providers balk at the amount of data flowing over their networks? Even Tom Lowe’s TimeScapes time-lapse movie has to be physically delivered on a flash drive if you order it in 4K.

How Does this Affect Me?

As a time-lapse photographer, your current footage could soon look as obsolete as shows from the 90s look today. So if you’re worried about how your videos will look on monitors that are already exceeding 1080p, or want to keep your stock footage viable, consider shooting and editing for the larger format. Instead of leaving a lot of room to crop, make sure you can pull out images at least 4096×3112 pixels, which is the largest size of the competing formats.

The good news is that most DSLRs should be able to handle the new requirement already. My Canon 60D, for example, has a maximum resolution of 5184×3456 pixels. Unfortunately, my monitor is still 1080p, which puts me in a similar situation to two years ago when I regularly published HD videos but could never see them on my lower resolution monitor. This makes it a little hard to see small mistakes that disappear at lower resolution.

In case you think this is all an act in predicting distant changes, consider that YouTube and other video sites already allow uploads much bigger than 1080p. I hear they look fantastic. Guess I’ll find out in a few years when I upgrade my monitor.

Product Overview from Intervalock on Vimeo.

This has to be the most oddly specific piece of time-lapse gear I’ve seen. That someone would make a sheath specially designed for time-lapse photographers shows this hobby is gaining serious traction. At the same time, it looks incredibly useful and I’d probably keep it attached to my favorite tripod at all times.

Anyone who’s taken time-lapse with even a hint of wind knows that the lens cap and intervalometer can act as sails and cause motion in the final images. I counter this by wrapping the intervalometer tightly around the camera base. I’ve also heard of people attaching Velcro to their intervalometer and tripod but I always forget to buy it at the hardware store.

Anyway, if you’ve got $16 burning a hole in your pocket and want to avoid the irritation of ruined photos, head over to the Intervalock website to take a look for yourself.

Photo by konradfoerstner on Flickr

If you’re beginning time-lapse or want to step up your game, what better way than to learn from an expert? Below are some of the biggest names in time-lapse and links to their sites. I choose some seminal photographers and others who have changed time-lapse or simply have a large web presence. They’re presented in no particular order. My apologies if I missed someone. Please add your favorite time-lapse photographers in the comments.

John Nash Ott – Chances are you’ve never heard of Ott, but you’re familiar with his work if you’ve ever seen Disney’s “Cinderella.” Ott was commissioned by Disney to make a time-lapse of a pumpkin growing to full size. Animators then used this footage as the inspiration for the pumpkin-to-coach sequence in the film. Ott’s book, My Ivory Cellar, talks about the early days of time-lapse.

Ron Fricke – Director of Baraka and Samsara (official site) and cinematographer for Koyaanisqatsi (IMDB). Fricke is often held as the undisputed master of time-lapse.

Jay Burlage (aka MILapse) – I began following Jay a few years ago when he first started attaching telescope tripod heads to motorized sliders for panning time-lapse videos. Since then, Burlage’s company Dynamic Perception (official site) has become the go-to producer of motion control time-lapse gear. Find Burlage on Twitter. It’s also worth noting Ryan Chylinski, whose time-lapse manual I recommend, works with Burlage.

Philip Bloom – It’s hard to find anyone in time-lapse with a bigger online presence than Bloom (official site). Not only does he share his gleeful excitement for time-lapse, mocked in this video, but he offers information on other forms of cinematography on Vimeo.

Vincent Laforet – Like Philip Bloom, Laforet’s talent extends beyond time-lapse. Check out his show reel at his website or read his blog.

Tom Lowe – The website devoted to Lowe’s film, “Timescapes,” has the best time-lapse forum on the web. Check out the trailer to see why Lowe’s included on this list.

I know I’ve missed a few dozen really good time-lapse photographers, so I’ll try to keep this list updated as I realize my omissions. I hope these links will inspire you to get out and make something amazing. Thanks for reading.

It looks like the holiday season is starting a bit early this year. I was planning on mentioning some discounts in December but this great deal just landed in my inbox. You can save 10% on all orders placed at BorrowLenses.com before the end of Thanksgiving Day (Nov. 21, 11:49pm PST). And here’s the best part, the order doesn’t have to go out by Thanksgiving, you only need to make the reservation by that time. To get the 10% off, enter TURKEYGEAR in the coupon box at checkout. Any rental made through this link results in a small affiliate commission and helps keep this site running.

I’ve talked about BorrowLenses before because I’ve used them a couple times and have been really happy with the service, selection, and multiple pick up locations. This is the first across-the-board discount they’ve offered this year, so I thought it was worth sharing. I’m also hoping they’ll offer their Christmas discount again this year, which is another broad discount offered on rentals of at least a week.

I have a new tutorial video ready to go and a few ideas for blog posts for the last two months of the year. I also hope to offer a good discount on another product I like. If there are any tutorials you’d like to see on this site, please let me know.