Tokyo Dreaming

Afternoon in Harajuku

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Mon, 01 Mar 2010 20:25:00 +0000

A day in Harajuku, Tokyo's center of street fashion.

Tobacco and Salt Museum in Shibuya

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Fri, 26 Feb 2010 02:36:00 +0000

An old-fashioned tobacco shop with vending machine set up inside the museum. Inside there was a tiny room with tatami on the floor and 60's era TV set.

Beautiful cigarette package designs.

Mannequins showing how tobacco was hand-processed in olden times.

Gorgeous lacquer and bronze tobacco set.

Tokyo has many quirky museums and exhibits, as most guides will tell you. I've often heard the Tobacco and Salt Museum being worth a quick stop in Shibuya for a mere 100 yen entrance fee (about $1). However being a non-smoker, I was never too excited to learn about the glories of tobacco production in Japan.

This time I went out of my way to visit this museum because they were holding a special exhibit on Vienna's tobacco and café culture, in celebration of 140 years of Japan-Austria relations. Anyone who knows me knows how Vienna has a special place in my heart. This exhibit turned out to be very interesting. There were documents and historical artifacts detailing the history of tobacco production, trade and usage in Austria and throughout the world. There were elaborate meerschaum pipes, jeweled snuff boxes, art deco cigarette cases and other beautifully crafted antique implements made for the enjoyment of tobacco. There were even pipes and other things from Emperor Franz Joseph's personal belongings, and a classic Viennese café set-up with coffee tray and smoking table on the side. Unfortunately, photography was strictly verboten so I have no pictures of this exhibit.

The salt part of the museum is rather ho-hum, and I went through this very quickly. The tobacco part of the museum was a surprise, and this is where I took tons of photos. I'm fascinated by vintage ephemera and I got an eyeful of graphic wonders here. I loved all the colorful cigarette packages with special edition designs, with themes revolving around the big event of the year - a new train, the Olympics, the war effort. Some of them are small works of art. There was even a little old-fashioned tobacco shop set up (you still see these types of shops all over Japan). This museum is worth the visit for anyone interested in Japanese design - and don't miss any special exhibits going on.

Tobacco and Salt Museum

Jinnan 1-16-8, Shibuya-Ku,
Tokyo, Japan 150-0041
Phone: + 81-3-3476-2O41

www.jti.co.jp/Culture/museum

Momoko Doll Mini Lingerie Apartments

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Fri, 26 Feb 2010 02:02:00 +0000

Shibuya's Parco department store offers interesting, frequently rotating exhibits in their basement level Logos Gallery. I went seeking an exhibit on vintage film posters, but got my dates mixed up and arrived a couple days too late. Instead, I found this Momoko Doll lingerie exhibit.

Momoko Dolls are a modern creation - they've been around since 2001. They are fashion-oriented like Barbie, and the consumer can purchase a wide array of outfits ranging from demure to sexy to rebellious. This particular exhibit was mostly about elaborately designed lingerie and sleepwear for Momoko.

The life-size mannequins had a Twilight Zone feel to them and were slightly creepy, but they weren't nearly as disturbing as the male customers rifling through the lacy Momoko-size undergarments and ogling her in garters.

Find out more about Momoko and her friends here.

ROOTOTE Tote Bag Gallery in Parco Shibuya

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Wed, 24 Feb 2010 00:54:00 +0000

I'm a handbag junkie and generally have to avoid spending much time in bag stores because they tend to deplete my funds pretty quickly. This new shop in Parco's basement level, though, had eye-catching displays that were impossible to resist.

The Rootote tote bag line started in Japan in 2001, collaborating with internationally known artists and licensors such as Andy Warhol, Pantone, True Religion and Tintin to create bold graphics for their hip-yet-functional products. Rootote's trademark feature is their zippered "roo pocket" built into the side seam. Take a look at their site for everything they have to offer.

The Parco gallery featured graphically stunning LIFE and Warhol totes (I wanted about twenty of them), but just as intriguing were the very cool display racks. The bags were hung on loops from black metal arms that individually swiveled away from the walls. The smart and space-efficient design made it easy to see both sides of each bag while keeping everything neatly displayed. The clerk was very nice about explaining all the features to us and letting me take photos.

I bought a gold Warhol tote with a shoe design for a friend, and meant to go back to get something for myself (I had my eye on a black and white typewriter tote, third photo from the top) but never did. Just as well...I have more bags than I can use in a lifetime.

Akira Kurosawa: 100th Birthday Anniversary

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Sat, 20 Feb 2010 21:01:00 +0000

The great Kurosawa was born a hundred years ago on March 23, 1910. In commemoration of Kurosawa's birthday there are film retrospectives, a Criterion special collection and a new book to look forward to.

Kurosawa Film Festival at The Stanford Theatre

I learned of this month-long Kurosawa film festival via @JapanIntercult on Twitter. Classics such as Ikiru, Seven Samurai and Throne of Blood will be showing at the historic Stanford Theatre Feb 20 - March 30.

TCM/Turner Classic Movies: Spotlight on Kurosawa

Kurosawa's films will be featured on TCM every Tuesday for the month of March - 26 films in all, so mark your calendars!

Criterion Collection: AK 100

This awesome 25-disc set is being offered by Criterion for $319. Their blurb:
"This deluxe, linen-bound collector’s set includes twenty-five films and an illustrated book featuring an introduction and notes on each of the films by Stephen Prince (The Warrior’s Camera: The Cinema of Akira Kurosawa) and a remembrance by Donald Richie (The Films of Akira Kurosawa)."

New Book: Akira Kurosawa: Master of Cinema (Hardcover)

According to the Amazon description, this book is "the most lavishly produced and profusely illustrated volume on Akira Kurosawa ever published, timed for the centennial of his birth." Release date: March 9, 2010. Author Peter Cowie has also written about Ingmar Bergman and John Ford.

And just for kicks, here is an old Kurosawa/Kitano interview! I found this on an excellent film blog for Maboroshii Productions.

Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons

Peering Through the Bamboo: Ryo Yamashita's Glasses

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Fri, 19 Feb 2010 20:24:00 +0000

In my Shibuya Granbell breakfast post below, I mention a small exhibit in the restaurant featuring Ryo Yamashita's glasses. Here are a few photos of the exhibit called "Peering Through the Bamboo" - my favorite are the first pair. These art-glasses are made predominantly of bamboo and metal. He uses the term "Kyoka" for these fanciful designs, meaning "glass that reflects (the beauty of) flowers." I really wanted to buy a pair but didn't dare inquire on price and now I regret it.

Ryo Yamashita is an haute couture eyewear designer. According to this profile from Gallery Ef's site, it takes three to four months to complete a pair of custom-designed glasses. He creates most of the parts by hand, a personal expression against mass-produced products.

You can view Ryo Yamashita's site here.

Granbell Breakfast with a Twist of Surrealism

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Fri, 19 Feb 2010 19:39:00 +0000

Bright, ginormous goldfish float outside the Shibuya Granbell Hotel's restaurant.

Teishoku breakfast w/ small cup of natto (center) started my day.

Miniature prints with avant-garde or pop art themes hung in the hotel's corridors.

In my previous post I mentioned the free breakfast with your stay at the Shibuya Granbell Hotel. This was served on the second floor at a restaurant called Ninnin. On the Granbell site, it's merely described as a "Japanese restaurant." It's open for dinner also, but I only went for breakfast.

Outside the entrance you are greeted by gigantic floating goldfish. Inside, the decor is sparse, but I noted a small art exhibit displayed around the restaurant and inside its small private banquet rooms. This exhibit featured Ryo Yamashita's whimsical glasses (see my blog post above).

At the time of my stay in October 09, there were three breakfast choices: Japanese teishoku (meal set), Western style breakfast, and some other kind - maybe Continental? I can't say for certain because I always chose the Japanese. This meal first thing in the morning made me very happy. It included grilled fish, rice, tsukemono (pickles), nori, miso soup, natto, salad (yes, salad - don't know how the tradition of eating salad for breakfast started in Japan) and tea. Perfect.

Granbell Hotel in Shibuya

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Mon, 15 Feb 2010 23:42:00 +0000

Big wood entrance door to Shibuya's Granbell says "Have a nice day" on it. In the heart of Shibuya, the massive station minutes away, yet miraculously quiet.

The snug bar/lounge located next to the lobby serves standard drinks and wine by the bottle.

View to the left from my window at night. Overpasses leading to the station and the busier flow of Shibuya just down the street, but my room was well-insulated and peaceful. Location was phenomenal.

My fab Annex Single room, which, according to the site, is "More pop. More artistic. And, fresh sense is added." I wanted to take the tropical print window panel home. The tinted green glass wall encloses the bathroom, a clever design ploy to make the room seem more spacious. The tiniest fridge you've ever seen is located beneath the TV - just big enough for drinks and snacks.

Magnetic sign for maid service attaches to the door.

I can't rave enough about this ideally located, hip little boutique hotel. It's a five-minute walk from Shibuya station, but tucked away on a side street in a small area called Sakuragaoka-cho, which is just far enough away from the crowds to be peaceful, but not isolated and still has a great vibe to it.

The English-speaking staff at the front desk are welcoming and helpful. The room comes with a good breakfast served in the second floor restaurant (choice of western style or traditional Japanese), and there is a cozy bar/lounge at lobby level to hang out at night. There are plenty of other eateries including inexpensive yakitori, an Okinawan restaurant (I never got to try it) and a couple of konbini (convenience stores) just steps from the hotel. All this for 11,900 yen (roughly $129) per night for what they call an "Annex Single" room. A regular single costs a bit less, but my impression was that it feels more claustrophobic (I peeked into one when it was being cleaned). For the location this is a good deal.

The room is small but stylish, clean, uplifting and pleasantly lit (super important). There is free internet access but no WiFi in the room - lobby only. The shower is excellent (no bath) and great amenities such as slippers and night shirt are provided. The bed is really comfortable and surprisingly spacious, almost equivalent to a queen size. The wood paneling surrounding the bed, built-in shelving and lighting give it all a retro ship's cabin feel, and I enjoyed pretending I was on a Life Aquatic adventure.

I felt absolutely at home in my room and it was the perfect place to unwind for a single traveler. I have one gripe: there was no closet, just a ledge to place your gear with one ridiculously tiny drawer underneath. You get a couple of pegs on the wall with some hangers, so be prepared to live out of your suitcase. If you travel with massive luggage you may find a single room uncomfortable. I found it somewhat awkward, but there was so much I liked about my room, the hotel and its location that I'd still go back in a heartbeat.

Book your room directly through the Granbell website and you might get a discount like I did (my room's regular rate is 14,000 yen per night - there is a wide range of rooms with most expensive suite at 50,000 yen). Another plus: when you check in, you receive a frequent user's card, a stamp for each night. Ten nights get you a free one.

Access from Narita Airport by train to Shibuya station, or by limousine bus, which takes you to the Cerulean Hotel around the corner. More info here.

Shibuya Granbell Hotel
15-17 Sakuragaoka-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0031
Tel +81-(0)3-5457-2681
Fax +81-(0)3-5457-2682
info@granbellhotel.jp

There is another Granbell located in Akasaka, where I also stayed - review coming soon.

Asia Galleries in San Francisco: Closing

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Sun, 14 Feb 2010 02:29:00 +0000

We've been treasure-hunting at Asia Galleries antique shop in San Francisco's North Beach for years. Today we went on whim, and learned that tomorrow (sadly) is their last day of business so many items in the shop have huge discounts.

The owner, Rhett Mundy, is packing up shop and moving to Masachusetts, where his warehouse is located, although he spends most of his time in Kyoto where he operates his other gallery - unless he's traveling the rest of Asia in search of more antiques. What a life! He buys directly from 15 different countries including Japan, China, Korea, Tibet, Burma, Thailand and has a great eye for the rare and offbeat.

We will miss this unique San Francisco gallery. Each time we stopped by there were more unusual oddities and gorgeous religious artifacts crammed into its dusty corners. Today I spied a tall Buddha from Burma I would have loved to have (if I owned a mansion), as well as some antique scrolls (a spooky-faced one with a $400 price tag) and old Japanese dolls. We ended up taking home an iron Japanese lantern for our garden marked down to $175 (we were told it's about a hundred years old), and something else I've always coveted: vintage glass fishing floats, about 3.5" with netting, $5 each.

Tomorrow, February 14, is their last day of business - go check it out!

Asia Galleries
1534 Grant Avenue
San Francisco
415.392.9127
asiagalleries.com

Japanese Calendars

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Wed, 03 Feb 2010 03:32:00 +0000

This calendar stopped me dead in my tracks (above). The art is so stunning I had to post every month. Printed with vibrant inks on handmade washi paper. If you look closely you can see a debossed rectangle on each page - meant for cutting out so the image can be used as a postcard for its second life! I love multi-purpose things like this - so clever.

This is similar to the above calendar, but with stylized animals on colorful backgrounds. I like the eel on moss green. The debossed rectangles for use as postcard guides come through more clearly in this series.

This is really fun...this is how the calendar looks closed.

Then, voilà! Individual die-cut panels swing out, all attached by a grommet. Cool retro-style art. I don't know how practical it is but very rewarding to play with. Made from uncoated, heavy cardstock, very yummy and tactile.

Cats are well-loved and seen on every type of product. I saw many cat calendars, this one being my favorite. It features a community of kitties with distinct characters, engaging in activities such as dancing or enjoying fireworks.

This calendar features everyday objects with smiley faces on them. So kawaii.

This is a sweet calendar...charming illustrations of a girl and her dog doing things together. Each page has a door, window or other object die-cut to reveal a surprise underneath. Hard to tell, but this month has the book's page that opens up. Click on image to enlarge.

More cats! This one shows cats for every week. A wide range of whimsical, quirky, painted cats.

This calendar is illustrated with traditional Japanese icons and motifs that match the season. I liked the gold accents and bamboo binding.

Beautiful black and white botanical prints in an oblong format.

I purchased most of these calendars at Tokyu Hands - they made excellent souvenirs.

Check out my Japanese stationery post here.

World's Greatest City: 50 Reasons Why Tokyo is No. 1

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Sun, 31 Jan 2010 02:04:00 +0000

This "50 reasons" list from CNNGo just makes me want to hop on a plane and fly back to Tokyo tonight. Among my favorites on their list are:

3) Tongue-gasmic food porn
10) You can commute to the mountains
12) Even the serious museums are weird
26) Cyberpunk infrastructure
35) The cuddliest cafes (for cat lovers)
36) The most bars per square meter
40) The most prolific festivals
45) You can eat like a sumo wrestler
49) The finest art cafes

Photo: Peak Bar at the Park Hyatt in Shinjuku

Tokyo Vice: An American Reporter on the Police Beat in Japan

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Wed, 27 Jan 2010 22:31:00 +0000

Jake Adelstein spent a grueling twelve-year stint as a crime reporter for Japan's prestigious Yomiuri Shinbun. His career gave him an inside look at parts of Japanese society that few foreigners have a chance to see: the underworld of organized crime. Tokyo Vice follows his exploits from his rookie beginnings, culminating in the scoop of a lifetime and yakuza threats on his life. I couldn't put this book down and was sorry when it ended.

Adelstein's life in Japan started off as a Japanophile's dream. He mastered the language, landed a respectable journalism job straight out of university, and proceeded to boldly go where no gaijin has gone before. He's the first American journalist to have gained access to the Tokyo Metropolitan Police press club while learning about the intricacies of connections between the police force, the press, and sources of information from the shadier side of the tracks.

Adelstein's story has been described as hard-boiled and gritty, but coming through his lurid tales of crime and the sex trade is a self-depracating, funny, likable and very human voice. I cheered him on as he rolled with the punches, whether it was having to eat fish eyeballs or working a night in a host club in order to follow through on a story. I also loved the accounts of evening visits to the home of his detective mentor, Sekiguchi-san, as he plied his family with ice cream and patiently waited for useful information.

Tokyo Vice is an eye-opener, not just in terms of the prevalence of the yakuza in all corners of Japanese society, or the horrific rise in human trafficking. I also learned fascinating details about Japanese culture I didn't know before, like how nihonjin often remove their shoes before committing suicide - presumably because, just as it's poor etiquette to enter a home with shoes on, it would be just as rude to enter the afterlife in this manner. Or, that the top-selling books on Amazon Japan are how-to manuals, including a sex manual, a suicide manual and a manual on how to argue with Koreans.

The Japanophile's dream begins a grim descent to reality, however, as Adelstein pursues two big stories: one involving a yakuza boss getting a liver transplant at UCLA, the other about human trafficking in Japan. He becomes increasingly involved with the victims whose lives are shattered by sexual slavery and this becomes his crusade. As he works obsessively towards exposing this darker side of Japan, his personal life, family, health and well-being are put at risk.

This book begins as a coming-of-age story and a fascinating look at crime reporting in Japan, and ends with the tone of someone who's seen too much, veered too close to the moral edge and lost too many friends and mentors. In one unforgettable chapter called "Evening Flowers," he writes about the many words for sadness in the Japanese language and how the various subtleties can't be translated. My sense was that Jake-san had a chance to experience many kinds of sadness during his crime reporting days, and he will remain haunted for some time.

Related links:

Jake Adelstein's site, Japan Subculture Research Center, with a Random House interview

Awesome interview with NPR where Adelstein talks more about yakuza and how they've infiltrated society

Tokyo Vice on Amazon

Image used with permission from Jake Adelstein

Tanka: The City

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Tue, 26 Jan 2010 22:27:00 +0000

With bright promises
of eternal youth
the city lures me
but even one night here
is too long without you

Ads and Signs Around Tokyo

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Sun, 24 Jan 2010 08:44:00 +0000

T-Shirts in Shibuya Shops

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Fri, 22 Jan 2010 19:25:00 +0000

Some funny t-shirts I saw on display.

Haiku: Shibuya Crossing

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Tue, 12 Jan 2010 07:24:00 +0000

Shibuya crossing
in the frenetic midst
a man reads a book

"Whales of August" Bar for Movie Buffs in Shibuya

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Sat, 09 Jan 2010 04:56:00 +0000

There is a bar in the middle of Shibuya called Hachigatsu no Kujira (八月の鯨), Whales of August, which features original cocktails named after movies. I chose this place at random, lured by images of movie stills posted outside and by the name, which is adopted from a Bette Davis/Lillian Gish film.

The underground interior is snug and pub-like, with a traditional wood bar and simple decor of movie posters. As soon as I entered I was informed there was a 500 yen cover charge (about $5). Drinking establishments in Japan often have cover charges so it's good to ask up front - but this usually includes some type of snack, and just remember you don't have to tip so it all balances out. Drink prices ranged between 900 and 1200 yen (about $9 to 12).

The bartender (whose name I never got, I'm sorry to say) wasn't only excellent at his craft, but also a gifted mixologist. It was worth the price of admission to watch him put the cocktail shaker in motion with a fluid flick of the wrist and go into a near-trance of mixing with his eyes closed. He seemed befuddled at first when I just ordered a martini, but warmed up to me when I started sampling his special creations, and became even more congenial when I was able to converse with him about movies. He takes requests, too - so try going in with your most offbeat film and see what he comes up with.

Of course, I had to start with the Blade Runner. Generally I'm against blue drinks, but this contained just the right amount of liqueur de violette to give it a fabulous electric blue hue, and was quite refreshing and mildly fruity.

The Oldboy, named after the Park Chan-wook thriller. I don't remember what was in it but it was a well-balanced drink, vodka based. The bartender seemed impressed that I knew the film.

I asked what they had for Hitchcock since I couldn't find anything on the list, and the bartender asked what I wanted. So I requested The Birds. He whipped up this breezy concoction containing a hint of Curaçao and a sprinkling of powdered sugar, to represent flight.

Wendy Nelson Tokunaga's "Love in Translation"

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Fri, 08 Jan 2010 03:31:00 +0000

I loved Celeste, the protagonist of "Love in Translation," from page one. Anyone who has ever longed to find her place in the world or aspired to seemingly unreachable dreams will enjoy following this funny and self-deprecating heroine on her adventures in Japan.

In order to honor an aunt's final request, and hoping this might lead to revealing secrets of her own family history, Celeste goes to Japan with no knowledge of the culture or language. Through her eyes the reader will experience the cuisine, customs, pop culture, art and dynamics of this fascinating and sometimes baffling country. For those familiar with Japanese culture, everything will ring true, from the pronunciations of Japanese-English, to the complex attitudes towards foreigners. This story was clearly written by someone who has not only been there and experienced some of the cross-cultural intricacies firsthand, but who also has a deep love for Japan and all of its quirks and rich offerings.

The tone is emotionally restrained with humorous observations worked in, but beneath this is a moving story with much depth. Every so often, emotions caught me by surprise as Celeste revealed bit by bit glimpses of a lonely childhood and a lifelong search for belonging. Finally, fate seems to have handed her clues to the secrets of her past, her identity, and maybe even a path to claiming a real family of her own. Intertwined with this personal quest is a delightful romance and a seemingly far-fetched chance at stardom that had me turning the pages and rooting for Celeste to the very end.

Find "Love in Translation" at Amazon. More info on Wendy Tokunaga here.

Also check out this interview w/ Wendy on KAXE, which airs her song "Nozomi no Hoshi," which is featured in her novel as a key theme.

Image used with permission from Wendy Tokunaga.

ジェロ! Jero: An American Makes Enka Cool Again

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Thu, 07 Jan 2010 21:47:00 +0000

During my last trip to Tokyo, I kept seeing posters of Jero, and I thought, whatever, another JPop or hip hop star of the moment. Then I finally heard him sing and I became an instant fan. I love this guy!

It used to be that whenever you admitted that you enjoy enka (as I do), and you're younger than fifty, people seemed to think you were sadly out of sync with the times and maybe even a bit strange. This young African American singer has made enka cool again with his hip-hop style and youthful energy. And he can really sing, in impeccable Japanese, with all the soul and passion of more mature, traditional Japanese singers. He's the first American enka star, and in 2008 his debut single "Umiyuki" (Ocean Snow) hit the Japanese charts at number 4.

An in-depth CNN interview goes into details about his upbringing in Pittsburgh and the Japanese influence in his life from his Japanese grandmother, who was a native of Yokohama. He grew up listening to and singing enka in her home, and knew from the age of 5 or 6 that he wanted to become an enka singer. He talks about his love of the genre, and his dream of bringing it to younger generations. He comes across as humble, bright, earnest and hardworking, with strong sense of self and purpose. He's a cross-cultural sensation.

Some other videos of Jero: here singing Yurakucho de aimasho, an old, bluesy enka song that's one of my favorites; performing for President Obama at the Cherry Blossom Festival in Washington D.C., singing "Eisa;" his CNN interview, parts one, two and three.

You can purchase Jero's music from cdJapan.

Above: Jero sings "Umiyuki", English translation included. Posted on YouTube by impetuosity.

明けましておめでとう！ Happy New Year

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Sat, 02 Jan 2010 06:44:00 +0000

,
New Year's - oshogatsu - is an important holiday in Japan. I grew up celebrating New Year's with more excitement than any other holiday. As kids we stayed up on New Year's eve until midnight, watching special Japanese broadcasts on TV and eating the feast prepared by my mother.

In Japan, oshogatsu festivities last for days, and everybody is on holiday, feasting, toasting, visiting temples and wishing friends and family well in the coming year.

It's powerful to be able to feel like we have a fresh start. Let go of the bad and ring in the good, that's what it's all about. This time of year I think of friends and family near, far and no longer with us, and hope for peace for us all.

I'll close with a year-end haiku:

Too many ghosts
crowd the year's final hours
time to let them rest

Shibuya, Friday Night

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Sun, 29 Nov 2009 08:05:00 +0000

Travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living. – Miriam Beard

Shibuya at night: like Venice or Paris, it's one of those places that exceeds your expectations. You go there for the first time thinking, there's no way it can be as exhilarating/dreamlike/surreal as depicted in the movies or in your craziest fantasies. And then you're blown away because it really is that effing unreal. I'll let the photos say the rest for now.

Persimmon Season

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 19:36:00 +0000

Actually the season for kaki (persimmon) is drawing to a close here in the Bay Area, but while I was in Tokyo in October, persimmons were in the spotlight. Persimmons are well-loved in Japan, not only as a fruit used in many types of dishes and sweets, but as an admired symbol of the autumn season, its pleasing form adorning stationery, textiles, paintings and ceramics.

With its stunning vibrant orange color (one of my favorite colors), symmetrical shape and gorgeous tree with broad leaves that become fiery-hued in fall, I think the persimmon must be nature's most beautiful fruit. I love looking at them and decorating my home with them. But sadly, I just cannot appreciate their flavor and texture. My neighbor has a Hachiya persimmon tree, laden with fruit that nobody eats. I pick them for my mother and her Japanese friends, who all go nuts over them.

The photo above is of last-second gifts I found at an elegant sweet shop (can't remember the name) in Narita airport on my way back home. They were super expensive but so lovely I had to take these back for my mom. The persimmon-shaped container in the little basket holds persimmon jelly, and the other item is some sort of persimmon-flavored sweet.

I found this recipe for persimmon pudding cake so I'm going to try putting my rapidly softening fruit to some use. If it turns out okay I'll post photos. This site also talks about the difference between Fuyu and Hachiya.

Japanese Stationery

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 01:38:00 +0000

Tissue-thin slips of paper for writing memos.

Incense for stationery - scented little inserts to put in letters.

More stationery incense.

Scented bookmarks.

Winter postcards.

Tiny accordion-fold booklets, about 1.5" high.

Postcards with gold accents. Japanese have a tradition
of exchanging New Year's Day postcards. 2010 is the
year of the tiger, so tigers are everywhere right now.

Postcard featuring bamboo with gold.

A vintage woodblock print from 1903 featuring stylized bamboo.
I like the citrus green on brown and art deco feel.

Kurodaya's handmade business card is decorated with
a piece of colorful goldfish chiyogami.

One of my favorite things: a stunning hand-printed
envelope with chrysanthemum design and gold accents.
The ink scent and paper texture are delicious.

Kurodaya's paper bags.

Maybe my second favorite thing: mini envelopes with
hand-printed elephants, about 2" square.

Autumnal postcards: mushrooms and
gingko leaves with a swirl of wind.

A set of 5 postcards featuring autumn leaves.
(Japanese products usually come in sets of 3, 5 or 6,
rarely 4, as one pronunciation of the number 4 -"shi" -
sounds like the word for "death" and is considered bad luck.)

A sweet set of whimsical owl postcards.

Artist Yumeji Takehisa apparently was not respected by his peers
during his time, but was popular with "ordinary people"
and is loved by collectors now.

There's a slight roughness to his work
which is part of the charm. Great color.

Playful kitty letter set. Cats and dogs are well-loved in Japan
and used as motifs everywhere.

This is beautiful...letter paper which tucks into a flap
to form its own envelope, and matching slips of memo paper.
Small slips of decorative paper for writing that "hito-koto" -
- literally, one word, or brief note - are popular items.

Sights of Japan's regions advent calendar/card.

Sumo card! The wrestlers perf out and players make them
bounce and "wrestle" in the sumo ring.

Delicately ornate, panoramic lasercut card. I love the
minimal palette, all brown with just accents of soft pink.

A simpler, elegant lasercut card featuring a
panel in the background with color photo.

I love these ladies in kimono, skiing and snow-golfing.

These floral cards are hand printed in rich jewel-tones.

I've devoted a decade of my life to the stationery industry so you'd think that would give me more than my fill of it, but even now I see a nice paper goods shop and I'm in love all over again.

Japan is the paper and stationery lovers' mecca. Much care is placed in the creation of paper and keeping up the various traditions of handmade paper crafts and seasonal letter-writing. I appreciate most Japanese design, but it's in stationery where you most readily find the expression of traditional Japanese aesthetics and values: respect for simplicity, reverence for nature and changing seasons, a sense of nostalgia, a love of whimsy.

Another thing I enjoy about good stationery is the almost full sensory experience it offers. A well-crafted postcard or greeting card engages your vision first as you take in and appreciate its design, then your sense of touch as you pick it up and feel the papers and other materials used. Sometimes even your sense of hearing and smell are involved if it happens to be a music card, and in Japan, I noticed the trend of adding incense adornments to your letters. The only sense missing out is taste, but who knows, maybe that will change in future. And then, there's the emotional aspect engaged in a card: perhaps the image or the sentiment evokes something, a memory, a longing, a laugh, a message you want to convey, or simply a deepened awareness for beauty and the urge to share it.

Japanese stationery is especially tactile, which I really anticipate and savor each time I enter a stationery shop. When crafted of quality paper, simple cards - some even bordering on being visually boring - change and come to life as soon as you pick them up and run your fingers over them. There is a pleasing texture to handmade papers such as washi that is like no other sensory experience. Its coarseness and warmth in your hands bring dimension and spirit to whatever you're creating.

There are stationery and paper shops all over Tokyo, but a few I recommend:

Kurodaya - in Asakusa right near Kaminari-mon and the subway. It was established in 1856. This is my favorite store - sometimes the larger stores can be overwhelming, and this shop is charming, unique and manageable (plus it's in wonderful Asakusa right at the Nakamise-dori shopping district). You can find traditional stationery and paper-crafted goods, kites, origami paper, washi (handmade wood fiber paper), chiyogami (elaborate silkscreened paper), and new and vintage wood block prints in a range of prices.

Ito-ya - this huge stationery and office/art supply emporium is in several locations, the largest found in Ginza (2-7-15 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, phone 81 3 3561 8311). I stumbled on a smaller one off the metro in Shibuya and still spent a good half-hour browsing through a wide range of greeting cards and postcards - traditional, contemporary and imported. At this time of year, you can find a variety of non-Western holiday and New Year's cards, many beautifully printed or with intricate lasercut designs.

Loft - there are several locations but I always go to the one in Shibuya for old times' sake. There's a good selection of housewares and gifts, but I pretty much head straight for the stationery floor. Cute letter sets, a large assortment of journals and planners, and nice art supplies.

Tokyu Hands - again, I go to the one in Shibuya. This place is so fun for the crafty DIY-ers. There's a lot of stuff for the "creative life," including wacky party supplies and costumes, supplies for beauty and health, housewares, art supplies, and of course, stationery. Their stationery seems to range in quality each time I visit, some years not so great, but this year, better, with a great collection of calendars (which was actually not in the stationery department) - so it's still worth visiting.

Check out my post on Japanese calendars here.

Sayonara, Almond

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:45:00 +0000

The Almond Roppongi intersection in March 2008.

The same corner in November 2009.

Demolished!

Anybody who has memories of being in Tokyo in the last couple of decades will understand what I mean when I say Roppongi will never be the same without its famous Almond Cafe. I was in Roppongi briefly for lunch a couple of weeks ago, ironically enough, thinking as I emerged from the metro to meet my lunch date: "no matter how much Tokyo changes, Almond will always be there."

I walked from the metro exit, anticipating the old pink-and-white relic from my youth. I looked around at the intersection, confused and disoriented because there was no Almond! The building had just been demolished, with a big gaping hole in its place.

To those of you who lived there back in the 80's like I did: how many times did you make a date with someone, saying, you'll meet them at "Ahmondo no mae?" Definitely the end of an era. I'm really glad I got to see it one last time on last year's visit, and as if knowing it would be the last, took photos and lingered over tea, basking in the natsukashi-sa of it all.

The building was no longer earthquake safe, so the business was relocated around the corner earlier in January. A new building will go up in its place, a modern-day landmark where people can meet out front. Whatever takes its place, it won't have the same retro charm as the old cafe with the striped pink awning.

To learn more about Roppongi and Almond, read this Japan Times article about its beginnings as an international meeting place in Tokyo.

Shopping in Asakusa

akigibbons@yahoo.com (Aki) — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 23:44:00 +0000

Hanafuda card game - I used to play this as a kid but
need my mom to teach me again. I always loved the images.
I'll blog more about this later.

Beautiful fabric remnant I found for a couple of bucks
at a tiny vintage kimono shop. Colors are not reproducing
well...the purple is really vibrant and the gold is rich.

"Eco" is the popular term in Japan for anything "green" or
eco-friendly. Cute shopping bags can be found everywhere, but
I especially like the ones with traditional prints. These tuck into
their own inner pockets.

Handmade business card holders in a variety of beautiful fabric.
I always stock up on these and save for future gifts.
Also, mini nioi-bukuro charms - scent sachets.

A small boy's cotton jinbei - a kind of short yukata with
matching shorts. I got this for my friend's son.

A tenugui with gorgeous brown and teal pattern -
a traditional cotton multi-purpose hand towel.
Traditional textile items such as tenugui, furoshiki and
yukata seem to be enjoying a revival in recent years.
I'll blog more about these soon.

A box of traditional sweets - small pastries filled
with sweet bean paste. I think I bought it
more for the packaging than anything.
I love the wrap depicting a crazy festival
scene at Asakusa's famous temple.