Traveloscopy Travelblog

Whistlestop conquest of the Balkans

2026-08-03T23:14:39.977+10:00

On a nostalgic railway journey across Croatia and Slovenia, Roderick Eime recalls the heady days of Cold War Yugoslavia.

It was the autocratic, Soviet-aligned Marshal Josip Tito of post-war Yugoslavia who can be credited with developing the comprehensive railway system that bound the quarrelling Balkan republics into something of a unified nation.

Cabo Verde: No Stress, Big Smiles and World Cup Fever

2026-08-02T11:25:00.000+10:00

Arriving in Cabo Verde during World Cup celebrations, Ros Freeman finds a dry, windswept island nation full of warmth, football pride, salt flats, lemon sharks and an irresistible commitment to taking life slowly.

How can you not love a country whose motto is 'No Stress'? Arriving in Cabo Verde we were greeted with fluttering flags and smiles as wide as faces would allow. There are two significant days of celebration in Cabo Verde: National Independence Day and the day we arrived, the day that Cabo Verde faced World Cup giants Argentina . . . and really gave them a scare!Read more »

Classy and Convenient Accommodation in the Centre of Seoul

2026-08-01T14:47:42.651+10:00

Few cities blend ancient traditions and futuristic ambition quite like Seoul. Sandip Hor explores IHG's new voco hotel.

One moment you’re wandering through centuries-old Joseon dynasty palaces; the next, you’re immersed in neon-lit shopping streets, world-class cuisine and the infectious energy of K-pop culture. South Korea’s capital is a city that never seems to stand still, yet somehow always finds time to honour its past.

Artillery relics around the world

2026-07-22T23:58:48.809+10:00

Like so many young boys growing up in Australia, I would always play on the old gun in the park. Later, as I grew older, I came to understand the significance of these war trophies and the immense sacrifice connected, not only with the Great War, but with each individual gun.Read more »

Hola Andorra!

2026-07-09T19:08:46.512+10:00

Perched high in the Pyrenees between France and Spain, Andorra is famous for its high-altitude ski resorts, duty-free shopping, and dramatic mountain landscapes. Globetrotting Ros Freeman explores one of the tiniest countries in the world.

In the town centre of Andorra La Vella is a five-metre-high bronze statue, Salvatore Dali’s melting pocket watch ‘The Nobility of Time’. It’s generally thought that Dali’s melting timepieces are a rejection of the idea that time is rigid. Which for us, is quite appropriate, as we’ve no planes, trains or buses to catch; we can take it easy in this relaxed, laid-back little city.Read more »

Travel Flashback: The Scenic Route Home

2026-07-05T18:30:25.194+10:00

On my last couple of trips, I've invited motorcycling pal, Bill, along for the journey. Naturally, we had plenty of time to reminisce, and as I dug into Bill's colourful past, I discovered he spent some very interesting times overseas in the early 80s. Unlike me, Bill is a modest chap, not prone to dominating the dinner table tales, yet his adventures in Pakistan, Turkey, North Africa, Eastern Europe and Southeast Asia almost 50 years ago would have Michael Palin on the edge of his seat. So, I've bullied him into dusting off his old photos and reminiscing before the synapses refuse to cooperate. Hope you enjoy. I did.

- Roderick Eime, Editor, Traveloscopy, 2026

Disclaimer: some images tidied up in AI

Ferries, forgotten lakes, Kashmir houseboats and the Khyber Pass on the roof of a bus: memories of an overland journey from Europe to Adelaide in the early 1980s.

The trouble with trying to reconstruct a journey more than 40 years later is that memory does not behave like a map.

I cannot always remember the name of the town, the exact order in which we visited places or even whether something happened in 1981 or 1982. I would need to dig out my old diaries and passport stamps to settle some of that.

But put an old photograph in front of me and the details begin to return: a fishing boat with a Volvo wedged across its deck, a flower seller paddling between the houseboats of Kashmir, cricket commentary drifting from the back of a Pakistani shop and the two of us sitting on the roof of a bus through the Khyber Pass.

our salubrious accommodation in Israel

I had been working in the Sinai Peninsula and was supposedly returning to Denmark. Instead, as often happened in those days, I took the scenic route.

From Haifa, we caught a ferry to Rhodes, where three of us wandered around for about a week. We then found a fishing boat heading to Marmaris in Turkey.

The boat was carrying a Volvo, positioned across the deck with its bumper bars hanging over the side. Passengers could sit at the bow or the stern, but moving between them was another matter.

“You couldn’t choose to go on the bow or the stern because they wouldn’t let you crawl through the bloody Volvo. It was really weird.”

Marmaris (Turkey) was a beautiful town then. We made a camp on a hill and stayed there, as you could in those days, without bookings, permits or much of a plan.

We bought a map of Turkey, noticed a lake somewhere in the middle of the country and said, “Let’s go there.”

I no longer remember its name.

This was before the film Gallipoli made that part of Turkey a familiar pilgrimage for Australians. We were not following a historic trail or ticking off famous sights. We simply saw something on a map and headed towards it.

Eventually, we reached Istanbul. One of our companions returned to England, while my friend Noel and I continued to Denmark. He caught a bus. I hitchhiked through Yugoslavia, back when Marshall Tito was still in charge and the Soviets were getting their butts kicked over the border in Afghanistan

“I’m pretty sure I got to Copenhagen before him.”

A complicated stop in Copenhagen

In Denmark, I reconnected with Mona, a Greenlandic woman I had met while working in Israel.

She invited me to Greenland to meet her family. I could afford the main journey, but not the helicopter flight required to reach her town, so I remained in Copenhagen.

By the time Mona returned, I had changed bedrooms and moved in with another woman, Birgitta.

“That was a bit untidy.”

Birgitta and I eventually decided to return to Adelaide, travelling overland whenever possible.

We flew from Copenhagen, possibly via Moscow, to Dubai. The modern towers, shopping centres and vast airport terminals did not exist.

“There was nothing in Dubai back then. It was just sand.”

From Dubai we continued to Colombo and travelled around Sri Lanka for about a month. We then crossed by ferry to India, where the journey expanded into a six-month zigzag across the country.

The photographs show the Taj Mahal, crowded towns, palaces and a much younger version of me looking like a wannabe hippie.

India felt rawer then. Agra was chaotic, and I remember seeing graffiti inside the Taj Mahal complex. The country had a population of about 700 million, which already seemed enormous.

Dry season in Srinagar

From the plains we travelled north to Kashmir and stayed for four or five weeks on a houseboat on Dal Lake.

The boat belonged to a local family spanning three or four generations. They moved downstairs while we occupied the upper rooms.

Life on Dal Lake, Srinagar

Life on Dal Lake moved at the pace of the paddles. Traders came past in small boats selling flowers and other goods. Mountains rose beyond the water, and the houseboats formed a floating neighbourhood of timber verandas, carved panels and reflected light.

I cannot now remember precisely where Kashmir fits into the sequence. It was before Pakistan, I think, but I would need the diaries to be certain.

The photographs are often clearer than the chronology.

Somewhere along the Khyber Pass, I think

Across the border into Pakistan

We entered Pakistan overland from India.

The trucks did not cross the border. Labourers carried the goods from one side to the other, with the Indian and Pakistani workers distinguished by different coloured clothing.

I can still picture them rushing forward as each new load appeared.

In Islamabad, a contact at the Australian Embassy helped arrange a visa recognising my de facto relationship with Birgitta. Otherwise, she could only have entered on a tourist visa.

It saved us from getting married for the sake of paperwork.

We travelled through Islamabad and Lahore, where we witnessed a religious mourning procession that remains one of the most confronting sights of the entire journey.

The annual procession in Lahore where young men self-flagellate is held to mourn the death of Imam Hussain, the grandson of the Prophet Muhammad

It began at dusk.

Men and boys, bare-chested and dressed in white trousers, moved along the street beating their chests with their fists. They continued until blood began to show through the skin.

Later, some returned carrying chains fitted with small blades. They struck their backs as they walked, leaving blood on their hair, clothes and the road.

“It was incredible. You really had to be there.”

I had heard that mud from a particular mosque was applied to the wounds and was believed to help them heal. Decades later, I mentioned the procession to a Pakistani taxi driver in Australia.

He was astonished that I knew about it.

When I mentioned the healing mud, he became even more animated.

“You know about the mud?” he said.

He believed completely in its powers. I remained less certain, but the intensity of the procession was unforgettable.

Shopping in Lahore. We bought what we thought were gems. (sigh)

Cricket and chai in the bazaar

Australia was playing Test cricket in Pakistan while we were there.

One day, while walking through a bazaar, I heard the commentary coming from somewhere behind a shop. I asked the shopkeeper for the score.

He looked at me and said, “Are you Australian?”

When I said yes, I was immediately ushered into the back of the shop. Cups of chai appeared, followed by small plates of food.

There I sat, surrounded by strangers in a Pakistani bazaar, listening to Australia play cricket.

That is the sort of moment that stays with you. It was not a monument or an organised tour. It was a temporary connection created by a game being played somewhere else.

From there, we headed towards Peshawar and the Khyber Pass.

The Khyber Pass: It was beautiful up on the roof

We travelled on a public bus. There were seats inside, but they were already occupied, so we climbed onto the roof rack with the other passengers.

“It was beautiful up on the roof.”

The road wound through a dry, mountainous landscape dotted with mud fortresses and fortified compounds. I had been told that Pakistani law extended only as far as the bitumen and that disputes beyond the road were governed by local customs.

Whether that was entirely true, I do not know. It certainly added to the atmosphere.

The journey took a few hours and was completed in an afternoon. From the bus roof, the Khyber Pass appeared less like a line on a map and more like an ancient corridor through difficult country.

Camping in the Himalayas

Peshawar, guns and misunderstandings

Peshawar was a wild town.

Gunfire could be heard frequently because local workshops manufactured weapons, including copies of AK47 military rifles. Someone offered to sell me a pen that could fire a bullet.

Another man asked whether I wanted to buy some hashish.

I said that sounded like a reasonable idea and followed him upstairs. Once there, the sellers began asking how many kilos—or perhaps tonnes—I required.

“I said, ‘I’m only after a couple of joints, actually.’”

Despite the gunfire, the weapons and the occasional misunderstanding, I never felt especially unsafe.

Birgitta attracted more attention than I did. Her blonde hair was a considerable novelty in that part of Pakistan in the early 1980s, and crowds sometimes formed around her.

Truck stop: The chai is served

After Pakistan, we eventually returned to India and continued east. From Calcutta, we flew to Bangkok because I did not know whether it was possible to travel overland through Burma.

From Thailand, we took trains south through Malaysia to Singapore, where I bought a miniature stereo.

I then carried that bloody stereo across Java by train.

From Java, I think we continued to Bali, and from Bali we finally flew back to Adelaide.

The journey had begun with a ferry from Israel and a fishing boat carrying a Volvo. It ended with me hauling consumer electronics through Indonesia.

In between were forgotten lakes, Himalayan houseboats, crowded borders, a blood-streaked procession in Lahore, cricket and chai in a bazaar, and the Khyber Pass from the roof of a bus.

I may still have to consult my diaries to put every place in the correct order.

But some things do not require a date or a map.

I remember how it felt.

It was beautiful up on the roof.

(Stay tuned for more rollicking adventures)

They were just as curious about us and our blonde companion as we were about them

All material (c) Copyright Traveloscopy.com unless noted otherwise.

Motorcycle Touring: On the road with the ‘Mild Hogs’

2026-07-03T18:57:56.859+10:00

The vision of scores of thundering Harley-Davidson motorcycles, line astern and dominating the highway is a vision few of us will forget.

This intimidating apparition, straight out of countless movies, has served to place this venerable US motorcycle brand at the forefront of all things wicked and dastardly. Even so, the ‘don’t mess with me’ persona of the ‘hog’ has ensured Harley-Davidson is the first thing you think of when ‘bad boy’ bikers come to mind.Read more »

Living the Life in Lyon

2026-07-02T21:34:36.955+10:00

World traveller, Ros Freeman spends four days discovering Lyon’s secret traboules, celebrated food culture, hilltop views and old-world charm in a city that quickly exceeds expectations.

There’s nothing more exhilarating than arriving in a city and knowing so little about it. Especially when that city happens to be Lyon. Jane and I are here for four days, soaking up all this elegant city has to offer.

An African-Style Safari, Just an Hour from Adelaide

2026-06-28T14:43:06.259+10:00

An African safari sits high on many travellers’ bucket lists, but reaching the great reserves of Kenya, Tanzania or South Africa requires considerable time, planning and money. Fortunately, it is possible to enjoy a surprisingly convincing taste of the experience much closer to home.

Just an hour’s drive from Adelaide, Monarto Safari Park offers wide-open landscapes, encounters with remarkable animals and the opportunity to stay overnight at either the plush Monarto Safari Resort or the luxury tented Safari Lodge.

Pakistan: Difficult roads often lead to beautiful destinations.

2026-06-27T15:15:46.787+10:00

Celebrated author Catherine DeVrye is about to publish her tenth book, Beyond Timbuktu. She captures her experiences in vivid, visceral detail, like this encounter in Pakistan.

Pakistan prejudiced my impressions long before I visited. I pictured poverty, terrorism, female oppression. Now I think of glaciers, apricots – and love.

After escaping the 2024 riots in Bangladesh, I posted: “Rested and relieved to be safely in Pakistan … words I never thought I’d utter.”

Towering Toronto

2026-06-22T08:30:00.000+10:00

Toronto is Canada’s biggest city and offers a wide range of fascinating experiences, Winsor Dobbin reports.

Fancy a vibrant North American experience but are keen to avoid the madness of the US?

Toronto, the vibrant Canadian city just across Lake Ontario from the US, might be the destination you are looking for.

Amazon Express

2026-06-21T15:45:55.863+10:00

Venturing into the Amazon basin is like exploring the heart and lungs of the planet. With one in ten known species on Earth and 1.4 billion acres of dense forests, the Amazon contains half of the planet's remaining tropical forests. Listen, and you can hear the world breathe.

Words and images Roderick Eime

Additional images as noted

I know that look. It’s that kind of cheeky half-smile, half snarl, like when you’re handed a peanut tin with a spring-loaded fake snake coiled inside. And like the 8-year-old sucker all over again, I fell for it.

Going Sleepless in Seattle

2026-06-15T18:51:00.000+10:00

Twenty-four hours in the Emerald City keeps Ros Freeman wide awake.

It’s easy to be sleepless in Seattle. There’s so much to do in this fair city, stunningly situated between mountains, forests and water. The city is only a short flight from Alaska, which is why I’m here . . . but only for 24 hours.Read more »

Marnong Estate: Killing time

2026-06-12T12:29:03.938+10:00

If you ever find yourself with a few hours to kill before flying out of from Melbourne Airport, then Marnong Estate is a name that should be on your radar, writes Winsor Dobbin.

Just a short drive from Tullamarine, Marnong is a popular destination for Melbourne wine and food lovers.

It is also a delightful destination for anyone who might enjoy a day or two away in the vineyards.

Northwest Passage: Ice Would be Nice

2026-05-28T14:57:47.651+10:00

A changing climate has turned the treacherous Northwest Passage into a pushover, discovers Roderick Eime

We’re all crowded on the bridge, at least 20 of us, peering out to the horizon with powerful binoculars and telephoto lenses. Surely we’ll see something soon.

Under the Shade in Belize

2026-05-24T15:04:42.012+10:00

On the cayes and lagoons of Belize, Ros Freeman finds a Caribbean country rich in wildlife, colour and easy charm, where the greatest travel dilemma is whether to explore or simply do nothing at all.

I’m running late! Two weeks late, to be precise. Legend has it that if you swim on Good Friday in Belize, you could turn into a mermaid. Imagine that? Passports wouldn’t be a travel requirement, though sharks could pose a bigger problem.

Finniss River Lodge: Is this where Crocodile Dundee goes on vacation? [video]

2026-05-19T00:14:31.155+10:00

Australia’s Northern Territory really is an untamed land. And with these massive carnivores lurking in the shadows, no one is going to try.

“Be careful not to get too close,” warns Chase, “they can be a bit unpredictable.”

Steel and Stone: Yorkshire’s Great Railway Journey

2026-03-28T19:31:00.001+11:00

John Newton returned to his roots in northern England to board the Settle to Carlisle railway, a journey that traverses a spectacular viaduct and takes in the unforgettable landscapes of the Yorkshire Dales National Park and neighbouring Cumbria.

From the soaring arches of Ribblehead to the windswept heights of Dent, the Settle–Carlisle line remains one of Britain’s most compelling rail journeys—saved from closure and now firmly back on track.

Grand Hotel and Casino in Port Vila: A Warm Island Welcome

2026-03-23T16:18:00.000+11:00

A landmark return to Port Vila’s waterfront, the Grand Hotel and Casino reopens after extensive restoration, pairing sweeping Pacific views with refreshed interiors, renewed dining and a steady sense of local continuity. Sandip Hor investigates.

“Wow” is exactly the word that sprinted out of my mouth the moment I entered my room at the recently reopened Grand Hotel and Casino in Port Vila, the capital city of Vanuatu. The 270-degree scenic views of the Pacific Ocean through the floor-to-ceiling high glass windows surrounding the round-shaped floor space, simply mesmerised me.

Libya Uncovered: Ruins, Realities and a Return to the Map

2026-03-10T16:56:00.007+11:00

After decades of isolation, Libya is cautiously reopening to travellers and revealing extraordinary Roman ruins, layered history and a complex modern identity. World traveller, Ros Freeman, fulfils a promise to herself.

There can be no better place in Libya than sitting atop a Roman amphitheatre, gazing out over the clear blue Mediterranean. In the distance, ancient galleons once traversed these waters, sails billowing. In the foreground, orchestras played as masked mime artists danced across the stage before enthralled audiences.Read more »

Jericoacoara: Pleased to meet you - finally

2026-02-16T13:43:00.005+11:00

Drawn by the laid-back beach vibe, Robyn Smith fulfilled a long-held dream of visiting this seaside paradise in Brazil

Many, many years ago, I saw postcards of Jericoacoara, and its unique colourful hand-crafted fishing boats called jagandas on the beautiful sandy beaches. I thought – I have to go there one day! It took me about forty years, but I finally did get there last October.

Salzburg: The Music is still playing

2026-02-04T13:02:00.003+11:00

Few jaw-dropping travel destinations in Europe can boast little or no change to their beauty spots over more than two decades. The Austrian city of Salzburg is one of them, as John Newton was relieved to find on a recent visit to Mozart’s city after a 25- year gap.

There are cities that never sleep but, more importantly, Salzburg is one that never loses its rich historical and picture postcard lure.

Vanuatu's Land Divers

2026-01-26T11:54:00.004+11:00

There’s something almost suicidal about Vanuatu’s famous land divers. Bungy jumpers have the benefit of an elastic cord to cushion their fall, but not so the legendary N’Gol (land-diving) natives of Pentecost Island.

Words: Roderick Eime || Listen

The origin of this dangerous ritual is clouded in tantalising mystery. One of the more romantic tales tells the story of the abusive husband Tamalie who, in pursuit of his recalcitrant wife, followed her up a tall tree as she fled from him. She, whose name seems to have been mislaid in the passage of time, refused to come down knowing that another beating was in store. Driven by pride and rage, Tamalie lunged at her, but she jumped. Tamalie, intoxicated by fury, lunged after her not knowing she had tied vines to her legs and he plunged to his death while she survived.

Iceland: Trolling About

2026-01-24T19:11:00.015+11:00

Be sure to pay your respects to little invisible Icelanders or your journey may end abruptly. Roderick Eime treads carefully.

“If you go walking, be careful not to kick around rocks and things. You could disturb a troll or an elf,” my guide tells me, and I turn to share in the joke. But he’s not laughing.

Liberia, Land of Freedom

2026-01-23T17:48:00.001+11:00

'Unique' is an overused term to describe almost anything, but world traveller, Ros Freeman, found it perfectly appropriate to describe this African republic.

In 1821, the American Colonisation Society established the West African country of Liberia. The name means ‘Freedom’. An idealistic notion became a reality, returning African Americans and Afro-Caribbeans to Africa. 18,000 previously enslaved people elected to return to Africa, developing an Americo-Liberian identity. They brought their culture and traditions, and, along with the indigenous people, they founded Liberia. It became the first African republic to gain independence and is Africa's oldest continuously independent country.