As deer season comes to a close and winter sets in, a lot of hunters don’t hesitate to start dreaming about next year. That’s just how the hardcore hunter is wired, we can’t help but to dream ahead and start getting anxious about hunting those big bucks again.

A great way to keep those juices flowing is to get out in early spring and do some shed hunting. As most everyone knows, a buck will shed his antlers every year sometime in late winter or early spring. This makes for a lot of bone on the ground for people to find.

If you’ve never tried it, you’re missing out. Being the first human to touch a shed antler that has fallen off the head of the very creature you are hunting is exhilarating. Finding antler sheds means a lot of walking. There are also certain areas that will be better than others for coughing up some of these gems. You just have to know where to look. Read 21 Shed Hunting Tips to help you be more successful at finding more bone.

What to Do With Sheds

Once you’ve found some deer sheds the question is – what do you do with them? Many hunters just like to hold on to them. Perhaps you’ll harvest a big buck one day and you’ll find you have his shed from a few years back – how sweet is that?

Keep them in a pile, hang them on the wall, or use them for rattling next season. If you find a matching set, make a European mount minus the skull or use epoxy glue to attach them to a different skull. It’s really up to you, but finding them may only be half the fun.

Deer Antler Crafts

If you are more on the creative side, you can make a lot of neat crafts with deer antlers. From antler tools and weapons to rustic decorations – there are so many antler projects that really your own imagination is the only limit.

• Antler Candle Holder
• Knife Handle
• Lamps
• Buttons
• Cabinets and Drawer Pulls
• Wall Hooks
• Black Powder Flask
• Letter Opener
• Jewelry

You can even paint or stain the antlers to help bring out their characteristics. The ideas are really endless.  A great book on the subject is Antler, Bone, Horn & Hide: Projects You Can Make at Home
by Monte Burch. There are over 190 pages of do it yourself projects that will really bring out your creativity – and heck, maybe you can even make some money doing it.

Throw the Dog Some Bone

This may seem a little odd if you’ve never heard of it. I had to research it myself to make sure it was safe. I even called our Vet and asked about it. It turns out that chewing on antlers is completely safe for dogs and is actually a good source of calcium and minerals. They recommended it over rawhide which is not digestible and can be unsafe for dogs.

I normally cut the sharp tips off the antler and clean it with soap and hot water. An antler for a chew toy will last a long time. It also keeps them busy and may stop them from wanting to chew on other things around the house.

We have a very large dog and she has never broken a piece off or splintered the antler in any way that would be unsafe. I’ve even found antlers for sale on some of the pet websites. They aren’t cheap which makes it really nice if you find them yourself.

There are so many different antler uses that this article probably only scratches the surface. Let us know in the comment section what you’ve done or made with some of the deer antler sheds that you have found. The important thing is to keep your juices flowing by finding some deer sheds then let your imagination run wild.

Last winter I sat down with a few friends to hash out some plans to build a better deer habitat. To get started, we decided to purchase some cuttings that we could plant the following spring. Through some online forums like the QDMA, we found that Big Rock Trees was highly recommended. We placed an order for a few hundred cuttings.

That spring, without any equipment, we slammed them into the ground and waalaa – we now have some screens and thickets started. Who knew you could stick a branch into the ground and it would grow? Though the concept was easily understood, and I literally planted a couple hundred of those cuttings by myself in no time, I wanted to know more. Recently, I had the opportunity to interview John Walton, owner of Big Rock Trees.

So What Is Big Rock Trees and How Did it Get Started?

BigRockTrees.com is an online nursery for habitat managers focusing on species that grow from Livestake cuttings (un-rooted cuttings). We also offer propagation containers useful for growing trees and shrubs in a controlled setting before moving them out “into the wild”. We started in 2009 after realizing there simply wasn’t a source for Livestake cuttings and supplies.  With the growing movement of land owners doing habitat improvement projects on their property, a reliable source for LiveStake cuttings was needed. Thus the birth of BigRockTrees.com.

For Those of Us That Don’t Know – What Exactly Is a Cutting and What Are the Advantages of Planting Them?

LiveStake cuttings can range from small 2 bud cuttings, as short as 3 or 4 inches to larger pole cuttings, as long as 4 feet. The cuttings are relatively straight sections of the parent plant with all branches removed. The cuttings have enough stored energy to supplement the development of roots and shoots until the new plant is self-sustaining.

Regardless of their size, cuttings are planted with one or more buds exposed by simply inserting the cutting into the soil.  From these buds, the cutting will begin to develop upper leafy growth. At the same time, the buds below ground will begin to develop roots.

Cuttings are often used because of their relatively inexpensive price, ease of planting, and flexibility of uses. Cuttings can easily be planted at a rate of 200 plants per hour per person on a prepared planting  site. Little or no equipment is required, no holes to dig, and access to remote planting sites can be advantageous.

What Are Some of the Uses for Cuttings?

Cuttings can be used for a wide variety of purposes in a habitat project. The list of uses includes:

Screening – Visual boarders for blocking off views from the road, breaking up large fields into smaller fields, etc.

Cover – Thickets for all types of wildlife. Depending on the species you choose this could include browse, fruit, and thermal cover.

Food – Fruit & browse. This type of planting can be used as a “Year Round” food source.

Many of the uses overlap each other. For instance, a screen made of a mix of Hybrid Poplars and Elderberry would provide both visual screening, browse, and fruit!

What is Your Favorite Cutting(s) for Growing Thickets for Deer?

That’s a tough one to answer, it depends a lot on your planting site and what you expect to get out of the planting. On sites that tend to be wet, Red Osier Dogwood, Silky Dogwood, and Hybrid Willows would be my favorites.

On more upland sites I would choose Arrow Wood, Elderberry and Hybrid Poplars. If I could only choose one, hands down Elderberry would be my favorite.

If You Had One Piece of Advice For Someone Trying to Build the Perfect Wildlife Habitat – What Would It Be?

I think too much attention is given to Food Plots. Although they are necessary, and often provide instant gratification, they still only provide a small portion of what wildlife need to thrive. A typical food plot provides nutrition for 4 or 5 months per year. What should the wildlife do the rest of the year?

Planting beneficial trees and shrubs is a longer term investment with a much higher return in the long run. I think properties need both, and I plant lots of food plots every year. In short, don’t forget the trees and shrubs in any good habitat plan!

For More Information

I want to personally thank John for being a good sport and for everything he does for the industry. For more information or to place an order visit BigRockTrees.com.

Hunting deer is both challenging and rewarding. It’s also the reason so many of us love doing it. Like many hunters, when I first started hunting it really didn’t matter how much bone a buck had on its head – it was more about harvesting a buck regardless of its size.

Today I choose to hunt a more elusive creature, one I like to refer to as the ghost of the woods. A mature buck is a different animal to hunt than small bucks and does. I’m calling a mature buck a 3 1/2 year old and older. A buck of this age is all about survival and that makes them a tough nut to crack.

With the exception of the rut, a mature buck is normally the last deer to enter the fields at night and the first to leave in the morning. He is in bed before most deer think about heading to their bedding areas. Once pressure is abundant, a mature buck becomes almost invisible.

So how do you find a big buck? I can tell you in 20 plus years of hunting, I have had more close encounters with big bucks than the average hunter. I don’t have a barn wall full of mounts to show for it, but I have gained some great memories and a ton of experience through lessons learned.

Pressure on Bucks

A sizable buck will not tolerate pressure. If you walk into the woods in the fall and leave scent, there is a good chance you just changed a buck’s pattern. I have learned over the years that you don’t take chances. Always be scent free whether you are hunting, scouting, or checking trail cameras.

You can get away with leaving scent if it’s early in the season and you don’t come back for awhile. Set your tree stands and blinds a few months before hunting season then slip in undetected once you decide to hunt. Use travel routes that make sense and play the wind in addition to being scent free.

Most deer become accustomed to certain things like vehicles, farmers, the landowner mowing lanes, people cutting wood, and so on. You can use this against a big buck if it makes sense. A friend of ours hunts on 400 acres that is weaved with driving lanes. For years they have driven the lanes on a regular basis with tractors, golf carts, ATV’s, and UTV’s. The deer are not spooked by the activity unless you step off the vehicle and start walking. So hunters are dropped off right at their stands and picked up afterwards. There are many big bucks on this property and a few mature bucks are killed there every year.

Head for Cover

It didn’t take me long into my hunting career to figure out that mature bucks like thick cover. Most of these buck hangouts are in thick nasty cover that is nearly impossible to hunt. Some of these spots have likely never been hunted and that is exactly why a buck will reside there.

The best way to hunt a thicket is to set up on the edge of it in the right wind and try to catch the buck entering or exiting. If you can overlook the thicket and get a shot into it, that’s even better.

I have had some super close encounters by slipping into a thick area and sitting on the ground by making a quick natural blind. This is not for the weak at heart. Being on the ground in a buck’s bedroom is risky. I’ve had bucks come within feet of me and it isn’t something you’ll soon forget.

It’s tough to know where to sit once you’re in the thick stuff but just try to stay on the downwind side of the thicket and back up against a downed tree or some thick brush. You’ll find it challenging to draw a bow on a buck this close but the experience alone is exhilarating.

Time of Day

This is one topic that gets a lot of lip service. I know it’s common to hunt at dawn and dusk but when hunting big bucks you have to think outside the box. I recently read an article that stated most of the record book bucks were shot in the middle of the day between 10am and 2pm. This isn’t a fluke in my opinion. Like I stated, a big buck is a different animal.

Most hunters themselves are patterned by mature deer. Deer see hunters park in the same spot, walk the same routes, and sit the same stands. They know when the hunter is there and when he isn’t. Therefore, many bucks cruise during the middle of the day searching for does and then again at night. During pre-rut and rut – try slipping into a stand during the middle of the day when most hunters are heading back in.

Being successful at hunting big bucks takes patience, experience, and some untraditional hunting methods. Try using these mature buck hunting tips and see if you can down the buck of your dreams this season.

Yesterday you read all about the Barronett Snake Eyes Venom ground blind review. We talked about features and upgrades they made over last year’s model and added plenty of images of the blind.

Now you have the chance to win a free Snake Eyes Venom 375 ground blind in Mossy Oak Break-Up Infinity. The blind is the top of the line model offered by Barronett Blinds and currently retails for $300.

• Who Can Win: Any hunter who wants to own one of the best hunting blinds on the market.
• What Will it Cost me: Absolutely nothing! We will cover the shipping costs within the U.S. The blind will ship brand new in the box at zero cost to you.

To Enter the Giveaway

1. Leave a comment. After reading the ground blind review from yesterday, COME BACK HERE AND POST A COMMENT BELOW telling us what you found most interesting or what features you like best about the new Snake Eyes Venom Ground Blind (leave your comments in the comment section below THIS post “scroll down”).
2. Please like us on Facebook. Also be sure to “like” Trophy Hunting Obsession on Facebook to be eligible.

For Extra Entries

Spread the word through social networking. Post about this contest or what you love most about Trophy Hunting Obsession on any social media sites (Facebook, Twitter, Digg, Stumble Upon, Blog, etc.) For every site you post on, come back here and add a comment below sharing the link where you did this. You can get up to 5 extra entries for this. Use the social bookmark icons below this post for ease of social networking.

Announcing the Winner

The winner will be picked via random drawing using Random.org. We will post a screen shot image of the Random.org number. The person that leaves the comment that corresponds with the number will be announced the winner.

Please use a valid email address with your comment. The winner will be contacted via email and will be announced on the comment section of the blog and on our Facebook page.

Contest Rules and Deadlines

• The ground blind giveaway starts on Tuesday, September 20th, 2011 at 10am eastern time. The winner will be selected via random.org on the evening of Sunday, September 25th, 2011.
• Comments must be placed on this blog in the comment section below.
• To increase your chances of winning, participate in the “extra” entries.
• Use a valid email address.
• We can only cover shipping costs within the U.S.
• This contest is void where prohibited by law.
• This contest is sponsored by TrophyHuntingObsession.com.
• No purchase necessary.

Details from the Barronett Blinds website about this blind

Snake Eyes Venom™ 375 with Mossy Oak® Break-Up Infinity™ SEV375MI
Snake Eyes Venom blinds have the most versatile window configuration. The 6-panel design allows for horizontal window opening, vertical window openings, or both. The options are limitless. The windows also dip low allowing for sitting shots, and all Snake Eyes Venom blinds come with removable zippered shoot-through mesh windows.

Features:

• Zippered roof opening provides additional room, air circulation or shooting options.
• Three-panel mesh windows designed to stay tight so arrows fly through with no interference.
• Five-hub design has no loose poles that require in-field assembly.
• Brush holders provided for additional concealment.
• Bow hangers, gear pockets, tie-down ropes and ground stakes are included.

Update – Winner Announced

It’s 7pm Eastern time on Sunday, September 25th and the contest is officially over. The comments are closed and a winner has been drawn. We had a total of 20 comments, I used Random.org to generate a number between 1 and 20 and the winning number is 6. The sixth comment was left by Keith Manning!

Congratulations to Keith and thank you all for participating in the contest. I truly wish I could give everyone a gift but we will have more giveaways in the future. Thanks again and your continued support and readership is much appreciated. Good luck to all of you this season and happy hunting!

We’ve talked before about how effective a ground blind can be for hunting. If you have never hunted from a ground blind, you don’t know what you’re missing. These days we set about as many ground blinds as we do tree stands. We get them out early, brush them in, and hunt them when the conditions are right.

Ground blinds are excellent for youth hunts, for hunting in the rain or snow (better than sitting at home on the couch), and for areas where we can’t get a tree stand. Besides deer hunting, we also use them a lot for turkey hunting. You can pop them up anywhere and turkeys don’t seem to mind.

We have used, tested, and done a review on the Barronett Snake Eyes Series blinds in the past, so this year we were excited about the new Snake Eyes Venom series. This is a 5-hub style ground blind that has no loose poles to mess with and pops up in seconds. I knew that Barronett was going to make some changes to improve an already excellent ground blind and I couldn’t wait to get my hands on one for testing and reviewing.

Camo Pattern

Probably the biggest notable change to the Snake Eyes Venom ground blinds is that they come in Mossy Oak Break-Up Infinity camouflage. The definition of the camo pattern definitely helps the ground blind blend into it’s surroundings. Although in the future I would like the blinds to be available in multiple camo patterns, I will say that you can’t really go wrong with the Break-Up Infinity camo.

Fabric and Stitching

Another big time change is the quality of the fabric . This year they went with a heavier canvas type fabric and also improved the stitching. Although the blind is now 12 lbs heavier weighing in at 29 lbs, it is now a lot quieter and more waterproof than before which is a huge plus.

Window Configuration

The 6-panel windows open horizontally, vertically, or both ways giving you unlimited options. The windows dip down giving it that “snake eyes” look and allowing the shooter to take seated shots.

The windows come with zippered 3-panel shoot through mesh that is removable depending on your preference. They kept the zippered roof allowing for more room, shooting options, and air circulation.

As an added benefit, they attached interior hooks to hold up the windows that you want opened. This small but needed improvement makes it so much easier and quicker to open a window and keep it open.

Concealment Options

I can’t express my excitement enough about the amount of loops they added to the exterior of the blind for brushing purposes.

There are brush holders that run vertically on each corner,  horizontally above the windows, under the windows, continuously all around the outer edge of the roof, and up further in the middle of the roof. In total, I counted 180 brush holders!

We brushed in our first one not using even half of the loops and you can barely see the ground blind at all! Not only is this important to conceal it from deer, but in my opinion concealing it from dirt bags that like to steal things is almost priceless – or at least worth the cost of the blind.

Overall Dimensions

The largest blind is the Snake Eyes Venom 375. This is the replacement for last year’s Snake Eyes 350. The set up size is still 90″ x 90″ which has a huge 3.5 person capacity – great for a hunter and a cameraman. The footprint is 62″ x 62″ which is actually 8″ smaller than last year so it doesn’t take up as much ground space when set up but still offers the same roominess. They did increase the overall height from 80″ to 84″ giving you even more head room than before.

The smaller Snake Eyes Venom 250 has a set up size of 75″ x 75″, a footprint that measures 59″ x 59″, and a height of 67″. It weighs 25 lbs and has a 2.5 person capacity.

Price and Final Thoughts

The new Snake Eyes Venom 375 ground blind currently retails at $299.99 and the smaller 250 Venom ground blind retails for $249.99.

I realize that price may be a concern and that we happen to test the more expensive models, but Barronett does offer ground blinds for every budget. They have the Big Mike Hunting Blind that currently retails for $149.99, the Wind Storm that is only $89.99, and the Grounder Series blinds that range from $99.99 to $159.99 so there are other options.

I am a huge Barronett Blinds fan and no I don’t get free products or get paid to say that, it’s the honest truth. I still tree stand hunt, but over the past couple of years I have seen the advantages of adding ground blinds to my hunting arsenal. It just gives you more options and range of hunting ground and to me that can be the difference between eating a tag sandwich or having a successful hunting season.

Drop a comment and tell us what features you like best about the new Snake Eyes Venom Series or any of the other Barronett blinds.

If you thought dealing with manhood shrinkage while cold was bad, try walking up on a downed whitetail buck you swore was a monster – only to see a dink. It’s known as ground shrinkage and it can take the wind out of a deer hunter’s sails quicker than they can say big buck down.

In the heat of the moment, a whitetail buck can look much more impressive than he actually is. This has to be one of the leading reasons smaller bucks get shot. It’s a fact that if you want to see more mature whitetails on your property, you have to let the smaller ones walk. So how do you size up a whitetail deer before deciding to shoot?

He and I Go Way Back

The easiest way to know a shooter when you see it, is to have some history with the buck. Through past hunting experiences, trail camera pictures, and information from other hunters – you can get to know bucks on your property.

I study every trail camera picture I have of bucks to become familar with them. I make a responsible decision, while sitting in front of the computer, as to whether or not it’s a shooter. I name the bucks just tohelp me recognize them in the field. This way there is no second guessing when it comes to making a decision if I get the opportunity.

On the other hand, when a buck that you’ve never seen before makes an appearance, you have to be able to quickly size him up.

Aging a Deer in the Field

Mature bucks have certain body characteristics that younger bucks don’t. A younger buck can almost look like a doe with antlers. They appear tall and lanky like a skinny little teenage boy. Their necks are considerably smaller than a more mature buck and their antlers lack size and mass. I’ve also noticed they aren’t very hard to hunt – 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 year old bucks are usually the first ones you see out cruising prior to rut.

Traits of a 3 1/2 year old buck are a bigger chest and neck. The neck may only narrow up a little bit as it extends from the chest. They can have the start of a hump on the top of their back above the shoulders. The legs will appear shorter than a younger buck but unlike a 4 1/2 year old, their stomach will still appear tight.

Bucks that are 4 1/2 years old or older can sport some serious headgear. Their legs will appear extremely short in comparison to their body. Their neck will blend right into the chest and they will have more of a pot belly than a younger deer. Needless to say, they are also very weary and tough to hunt.

Field Scoring Deer

 The reason I first mentioned age, is because I believe that age should be the number one determining factor of harvesting a buck. Sometimes this industry gets too caught up with antler size. Shoot a buck with a huge rack and all of a sudden you’re an expert – I disagree. With that said, antler size can certainly help you age a buck and therefore help you in deciding whether or not he is a shooter.

The number of points a buck has should not be your only reason for shooting him. I have seen plenty of spindly 3 1/2 year old 10 points that probably wouldn’t score over 125 inches.

Inside Spread Quick Tip: If the buck is facing you, compare the inside spread to his ears. An alert buck’s ears will measure about 16″ from tip to tip. If the rack doesn’t extent past the ears, it’s fairly narrow. In contrast, if the antlers spread an inch or two past the ears, you can bet he has 18 inches or more of inside spread.

Main Beam Length: From a side profile, notice the buck’s main beams. Long main beams will stick out as far as the buck’s nose or further. On average, if they are even with the nose they can be 20 inches or longer. If they extent out even with the nose and the main beam tips wrap around and almost touch, then they could be in the range of 22 inches to 24 inches long. Be aware that some buck’s main beams may extent up instead of out – it just depends on the buck.

Tine Length Quick Tip: Judging a buck’s tine length is tough. I normally start with the G2 (the first tine after the brow tine). A buck’s ear is about 6 1/2 inches long, so comparing an ear to the tallest tine (usually the G2) can help you in determining its length. I then compare that tine to the rest of the tines to come up with a quick tine measurement.

Mass Measurements

Mass is a tricky one. I think it just comes with experience as far as field judging it. There are up to 4 mass measurements on any buck. If I think a buck has decent mass, I will add 15 inches to the score. A lot of mass would be 20 plus inches. With experience, you will know if a buck has mass or if he looks spindly.

Take the age characteristics into account to help you. If you aged the buck at 2 1/2 and are leaning towards him being spindly, then he probably is – perhaps 12 inches of mass or less. A lot of times a younger deer may have good tine length or width but won’t gain mass until he reaches 4 1/2 or older.

Extra Quick Tips

If you have time, add up all the numbers in your head. I add up the shorter side – tine lengths, main beam, and mass. Then I double it and add the inside spread. By doubling the shorter side I feel more confident that I am not over-judging the score.

The number of points can add to the score considerably so be sure to count them all up. Look hard for sticker points, split brows, or extra tines that may not have a match to the other side.

What hurts a buck’s score the most has to be poor mass measurements and/or short tine length. Pay close attention to both of these considerations.

These whitetail field judging techniques are only meant to be used as a guide, although field scoring deer doesn’t have to be rocket science. As long as you study the body characteristics and use the methods for field scoring deer antlers, you’ll find it easier to make a quick but educated decision instead of acting on impulse. Hopefully you’ll be less likely to experience ground shrinkage and regret something you can’t take back.

Not many deer hunters will argue that they would enjoy hunting more if they felt confident that a mature buck was likely to pass their tree stand at any given time. This is where good scouting techniques come into play.

Scouting for deer sign has certainly changed over the past several decades. Now we hear the term digital scouting - also referred to as digi-scouting. This digital way of deer scouting is using hi-tech tools like trail cameras, GPS units, mapping software, and satellite imagery to put together a plan for a successful hunting season.

GPS Technology

We use a hand held GPS unit for marking trails, tree stands, camera sites, and any other notable sign. This spring we used our GPS units to measure off food plots. By using a unit measuring tool on the device, we held the unit and drove the perimeter of the plot with a 4wheeler. This would give us an exact inside measurement in acres – no half assed measuring by stepping it off or second guessing. The GPS unit was dead on every time.

Satellite Images

Finding an aerial map of your property used to be a tough proposition. Years ago we went to the courthouse to purchase aerial photos that were in black and white and not very detailed.

Today, you can purchase detailed satellite images and topographical maps from places like Point North or My Topo. You can also download Google Earth or Google Maps onto your computer or smart phone.

Satellite and topographical images can show you terrain layout, pinch points, ditches, and other features that are common deer travel routes. Highlighting these hot spots before you even hit the field is a huge time saver. Plus there is a chance that you might not have even stumbled upon certain hot spots without first viewing aerial maps.

I like to save the image of my hunting property from Google Earth and then open it in an editor like Photoshop. I mark tree stands, camera sites, food plots, know rubs, scrapes, trails, etc. I print and laminate it for planning my hunts.

Lately while figuring out stand sites, I’ve been using the Google Earth app on my Ipad by tethering off my cell phone service while out in the field. If you would have told me 10 years ago I’d be viewing a satellite image of my hunting property from a mini computer while I was in the field, I would have said you were freaking nuts.

Trail Cameras

The trail camera has to be the top hi-tech tool for digital scouting techniques. We first start the season by placing our cameras over salt blocks or mineral licks. This brings the deer to the camera so we can see which bucks survived and their current antler growth.

Towards the end of summer, we move the cameras to large openings, food plots, and heavily used trails to attempt to pattern the deer. We pay close attention to the time of day and the direction the deer are heading.

We’ve had success putting the trail cameras up higher (10-12 feet) to get a shot of an entire field or opening. We put the camera on a time lapse mode so it takes a picture every few minutes during certain hours of the day. I like setting it for every 5 minutes during first light and then again in the evening. It’s a lot of work flipping through all the images but it can really tell a story about the deer patterns leading up to hunting season.

Technology also helps me to view my trail camera images faster and more efficiently. I bring my laptop to insert the SD card into so I can see what pictures we have. Then I can decide whether to leave the camera there or move it. It sure beats driving all the way home to flip through the images.

Mapping Software

Using software like Buckview which comes free with the Reconyx Cameras
can be a huge advantage. You can upload all your images and use the X-Pattern tool to see patterns and where certain deer are hanging out. The software also has a slideshow viewer, image tagging, video builder, and radar overlays.

Currently, we have a good 10 point that has only visited 3 of our camera sites which all form a triangle. Now we know where his core area is and where to hunt him. Without the image storing capabilities of the Buckview software it would be hard to remember what camera he was on, where the camera was, and so on. I’ve tried to track all my images without software before and it gets confusing to say the least – no matter how organized you think you are.

Digital scouting for deer is cutting edge and adds another level of excitement to this great sport. Don’t be afraid to go hi-tech this hunting season, you’ll learn more about the deer you hunt and the lay of the land. I think you’ll also find it will be more rewarding when you put yourself in a better position to harvest a deer.

Planting a food plot for wildgame can be very rewarding. There is nothing like seeing deer feeding on something you have purposely planted for them. Whether it’s to supplement their nutrition, keep them on the property, or to draw them in closer for harvesting intentions – food plots are quickly becoming the norm when it comes to deer hunting.

As deer hunters are evolving into deer managers, one decision we all have to make each year is what to plant. Some factors like geographic region, soil conditions, and herd density can help narrow your options. But regardless, a final choice has to be made and that’s a decision that can have a huge effect on your hunting success this season.

One of the highlights of our summer was planting something new. I wanted something that was going to provide the deer with a smorgasbord of food all summer and throughout the fall and winter months. The plot was to be a 1/2 acre hunting plot but in addition would also provide high nutrition for the deer.

After researching many different types of seed mixes, the choice was made to go with Frigid Forage Monster Magnet. This is an annual mix of soybeans, spring peas, purple top turnips, sugar beets, black oil sunflowers, winter rye, and hairy vetch. Besides deer, this will also attract grouse, doves, and turkeys.

The chosen field had previously been farmed for many years on a corn and soybean rotation. The soil tests showed a pH of 7 so no lime was needed. Around the first of June we prepared the plot by nuking everything with 41% glyphosate and allowing everything to die off.

After a week or so we fertilized with 19-19-19 at an equivalent of 400 lbs. per acre. We used a no till drill and planted the Monster Magnet seed at a depth of 1/4 – 1/2 inch deep and let Mother Nature take her course.

Rain was abundant and within a month the plot was looking great. After 2 months I could see the sunflowers from several hundred feet away. With a closer look there was definitely everything growing that was supposed to be including soybeans, peas, sugar beets, and lots of turnips.

One thing I noticed at this time about the plot was that the sunflowers were getting so tall that some good trail camera pictures were going to be tough to get. Not that no trail camera pictures was a bad thing because it was then that I realized the plot was also going to double as a screen to slip into one of our stands which I hadn’t really anticipated.

By early September the Monster Magnet food plot is still holding up well despite some signs of browse. As winter arrives, the first freeze will make the sugar beets and turnips more palatable and I suspect to see deer digging in the snow to get to the bulbs. They’ll also be eating whatever bean pods are left along with the winter rye.

I’m excited to get out and hunt this plot and regardless of what happens, I can tell you the only thing I will be doing different next year is to plant more of it. In total we planted about 8 acres of food plots this year and the Monster Magnet is certainly one of the best looking and useful plots on the farm.

When it comes to hunting season, deer hunters need every advantage they can get over their elusive prey. This means bringing an array of equipment to help increase their odds of harvesting a deer.

Whether it’s extra clothing to stay out longer on a cold day or the new deer scent you wanted to try, forgetting something sucks and once you’re in your treestand it’s too late.

This alphabetized deer hunter’s checklist will help you to remember everything you need before heading out this hunting season.

• Ammo
• Armguard
• Arrows
• Backpack
• Binoculars
• Bottled Water
• Bow Holder
• Bow Sling
• Breath Spray
• Broadheads
• Camo Face Paint
• Cell Phone
• Climbing Sticks
• Cover Scent
• Decoy
• Digital Camera
• Doe Bleat
• Drag Rope
• Extra Batteries
• Extra Clothing
• Facemask
• Fanny Pack
• Flashlight or Headlamp
• GPS Unit or Compass
• Gloves
• Ground Blind
• Ground Blind Chair
• Grunt Tube
• Gun or Bow
• Hand Warmers
• Hang on Treestand
• Hat
• Hunting Knife
• Hunting License/Permits
• Lunch
• Pee Bottle
• Pruners
• Pull-Up Rope
• Quiver
• Rain Gear
• Range Finders
• Rattling Horns
• Release
• Rubber Boots
• Safety Harness
• Scent/Lures
• Scent Eliminating Spray
• Seat Cushion
• Spotting Scope
• Topographical Maps
• Trail Camera SD card
• Tree Saw
• Tree Steps
• Two-Way Radios (if legal)
• Video Camera
• Video Camera Arm
• Wallet
• Wind Indicator

It might also be a good idea to have a written permission letter on you if you’re hunting on a new lease or have access to some private land. Don’t forget any type of medical items you may need like an epipen, inhaler, diabetic shot, Tylenol, etc.

This is by no means an extensive list for going out west for a week, but rather just a simple checklist for the average deer hunter heading out to the stand.

We have all forgotten something at one time or another before walking out. Take the time to go through this deer hunter’s checklist so you have everything you need every time you head out this hunting season. If you have something else that you think should be added to the deer hunter’s checklist, just mention it in the comment section below.

Related Articles: 101 Tips to Deer Hunting Success – 7 Must Haves for Deer Hunting

It’s been a long off season for many hunters, but that magical time of year is almost upon us. I’m talking about early deer season, and just saying that gives me goose bumps.

A lot of planning and effort can go into your early season strategy and the key to that is finding the best deer stand location. Recently, Mark Kenyon posted a great article on The Perfect Early Season Stand over on his blog WiredtoHunt.com.

The article inspired me as it hit on all the great spots to set your early season treestand. One such location is over a known water source, especially if your area tends to be dry this time of year. Mark also covered hunting between bedding and feeding areas and hunting over a  known food source.

I wanted to elaborate on hunting between feeding and bedding areas because as mentioned, it’s a great spot to hunt during the early season. When I look for travel corridors connecting these locations, I look for two different types of hot spots - funnels and hubs.

Funnels or Pinch Points

A funnel or pinch point is anyplace where the terrain is funneled down to a narrow corridor. A week ago I attended a school open house that took place in the gym. As the huge crowd was dismissed, we all hustled across the gym floor only to come to a standstill to funnel through the small entry door. I actually muttered to myself, “Hey, a pinch point!” I guess I had deer hunting on my mind instead of the boring speech I had just been forced to listen to.

When I think of these narrow funnels for deer, I like to target any spot where a well traveled wood lot or other type of cover bottlenecks down. I prefer bottlenecks that are 50 yards across or less so any passing deer stays within bow range.

I have also had great luck honing in on fence crossings. A place where a fence is cut or lying down more so than the rest of the fence, can be a good funnel for deer. The same goes for creek crossings. A creek runs through one of the properties I hunt and some of the banks are pretty steep. You can have great success picking out the trails that offer the deer the easiest route to cross. Remember, when deer aren’t pressured they’ll use the path of least resistance.

Hub Areas

A hub is an area where multiple deer trails all come together, much like the spokes of a bicycle wheel. Hunting a hub area is like covering several well traveled routes all at once and I can tell you from experience, it can be exciting.

During the early season, it’s important to note where the deer are bedding and where the preferred food source is. This will help you in choosing your exact treestand location. A hub can be a hot spot but you really have to pay attention to the wind direction. Unlike a funnel point, a hub area can deliver deer from multiple directions and routes so know where the deer are supposed to be coming from and which direction they should be heading.

Setting up on the downwind side of a pinch point or hub area can be a great early season strategy. Pay close attention to the wind direction and be stealthy on your route to and from the stand. Most importantly, don’t over-hunt your early season stands or pressure the deer too much this time of year.