SomethingGlorious

Respecting Marriage: My Advocate.com Commentary

2009-10-06T10:43:30-05:00

Yesterday, an article I wrote for Advocate.com, the leading LGBT news magazine, discussing why at this point in time it's ridiculous for people to see treat gays as second-class citizens. The following is an excerpt and you can read the rest of the article by clicking the link below.

Respecting Marriage

With the introduction of the Respect for Marriage Act, gay and lesbian couples moved one step closer to marriage equality in America. The big question: Will that be enough to really effect change in places where gays are still ostracized and treated as second-class citizens?

The bill, introduced in the U.S. House on September 15 by Democratic representatives Jerrold Nadler of New York, Tammy Baldwin of Wisconsin, and Jared Polis of Colorado, seeks to repeal the Defense of Marriage Act, signed into law in 1996 by President Bill Clinton. In an interesting twist, Clinton is a major backer of the new bill, saying, "Throughout my life I have opposed discrimination of any kind. When the Defense of Marriage Act was passed, gay couples could not marry anywhere in the United States or the world for that matter. Thirteen years later, the fabric of our country has changed, and so should this policy."

To read the full commentary, head to Advocate.com.

Hearty Boys' new spot Hearty to feature upscale comfort food, classic cocktails

2009-09-30T16:14:29-05:00

The Hearty Boys just keep on surprising us, don't they? Earlier this year, the original winners of "The Search for the Next Food Network Star" started serving brunch in their catering/HBTV studio space in Lakeview. Now they're taking things up a notch by opening their new restaurant, Hearty, in the same space, at 3819 N. Broadway. The menu promises to showcase upscale comfort food where they'll reintroduce dishes they grew up with, but adding a modern twist.

SomethingGlorious spoke Hearty Boy Steve McDonagh, who said he initially had reservations about opening another restaurant, but after seeing the popularity of their Sunday brunch and realized the the dearth of restaurants on that stretch of Broadway, they decided to give it a go. And go they will: their new website, featuring the new menu. just went live.

McDonagh, along with his life-and-business partner (and chef) Dan Smith , will close the space Oct. 21 and reopen for business following a bit of redecorating on Nov. 4.

Look for Smith's take on deviled eggs (a trio of deviled eggs, one each filled with curry, pesto and beets); pork and beans (Great Northern beans with pork belly and pork cheeks); surf and turf (hanger steak with batter-fried oysters served with a housemade BBQ sauce); "Campfire fish" (fresh market fish cooked and served in foil with vegetables and herb butter prepared over hot coals); lobster pot pie (does this really need an explanation?!); tuna casserole (deconstructed with seared ahi, egg noodles, light saffron cream, sauteed wild mushrooms, sweet pea puree) and a twist on the BLT morphing it into the P.A.T. (pancetta, arugula and marinated tomato on grilled sourdough). Smith will introduce a pudding flight on the dessert list: arborio rice, butterscotch and Indian pudding (corn meal with cinnamon and allspice), which is popular in New England. Price per plate will range from about $17 to $23.

Meanwhile, McDonagh has long had an affinity for classic cocktails and wanted to do them long ago before the big trend hit (you can read about his cocktails in their cookbook, "Talk With Your Mouth Full"). He's searching far and wide to find new and interesting drinks to feature alongside their all-American wine list, which includes West Coast wines as well as from obscure spots like Georgia, North Carolina, Connecticut and Texas, like Llano Estacado port. Cocktails will include the East India (Grand Marnier, orange bitters and pomegranate liqueur sourced from Thatcher's Organic in Michigan), the Cel-Ray Mary (Dr. Brown's Cel-Ray soda, Aquavit, muddled grape tomatoes, green pepper and spices) and the Off White Russian (Veev acai spirit, heavy cream and Chicago's own Koval organic rose hip liqueur).

The Boys will host one final preview dinner on Oct.7 from 5-10 pm. Cost is $35 for a three-course prix-fixe meal, where you get to choose your app, entree and dessert from a variety of new menu items (drinks are additional cost). You can make reservations by calling 773-868-9866.

[photo courtesy of Andreas Larsson for ChicagoBusiness.com]

Chicago Gourmet Chefs Dish on Tastings to Preview Event

2009-09-23T21:48:32-05:00

With Chicago Gourmet coming up this weekend, local foodies are all a-twitter about the impending gastronomic event. Last year, the site flowed with plenty of wine from around the world, but the food was surprisingly scarce. The focus was misdirected and lots of attendees ended up getting pretty hammered without any food to soak up the wine.

This year's event, taking place in Millennium Park Saturday and Sunday, already seems to be shaping up to rival some of the country's top food and wine weekends, including Aspen's Food & Wine Classic and the South Beach Food & Wine Festival. With nearly every major Chicago chef represented, it seems like it's going to be a culinary orgy.

The park will be set up with various tents serving as tasting stations, where chefs will do cooking demonstrations as well as hand out samples to the salivating public. There will be things happening all over

the park, including Pritzker Pavilion, Gourmet Pavilions and various tents set up to represent disparate cuisines and cooking styles and themes, including Mediterranean, Asian, French, seafood, stockyard, gastropub, Latin, regional American and dessert.

As for wine, it should flow as freely as last year with bottles being poured by vintners from around the world. In an interesting twist, it looks like spirits will also be represented. Thank god the food offerings look to be plenty as the last thing we need is a bunch of wasted Chicagoans tossing their cookies all over Millennium Park.

While we'd love to share what every chef will serve this weekend, we just don't want to ruin all the surprises. SomethingGlorious caught up with some of our favorites, who spilled the beans on what festival goers can look forward to eating. And if you haven't yet bought tickets, you still have time. Tickets range from $150 for a single day or $250 for the weekend pass. If you want in on the Grand Cru wine tastings, that'll run you another $175. It's a pretty steep price, but you get access to the city's best food and personal interaction with the chefs—not to mention all the open-bar booze you can drink.

Here's a bit of what you can expect to eat:

Graham Elliot Bowles of his namesake restaurant will serve an amuse bouche version of the corn bisque they serve in the restaurant. The bisque will be replaced with corn panna cotta with garlic cream, chipotle jam, corn nuts and micro cilantro.

Shawn McClain of Spring, Custom House and Green Zebra, will introduce fall with roasted autumn squash tabbouleh with roasted apples, grilled shrimp and citrus-cider vinaigrette. The ingredients are sourced locally from Seedling and Nichols farms.

Stephanie Izard, of the soon-to-open Drunken Goat, is whipping up a smoked chicken salad with pumpkin vinaigrette, also to ring in the fall. A big supporter of local farms, Steph is sourcing corn from Nichols Farm and apples from Seedling Farm. She'll be sharing tent space with Bowles and Sepia's head chef, Andrew Zimmerman.

If you're looking for a little Spanish flavor, make sure you visit Randy Zweiban. The Province chef is preparing a Green City Market vegetable salad with lavender honey chicken and an orange mojo sauce. Be sure to catch his late Saturday afternoon demo where he'll discuss the many uses of mojo.

Piccolo Sogno's Tony Priolo, who will be hanging next to his buddy Dirk Flanigan from the Gage in Pritzker Pavilion (he'll also have his own spot in the Mediterranean tent), will have two dishes: cappellacci di zucca (pasta traditionally stuffed with sweet pumpkin, Parmesan and spices and topped with sage butter) and a local squash (from Green Acres) and walnut-stuffed ravioli with butter and sage.

You won't see his ever-changing chalkboard menu, but the Bristol's Chris Pandel will serve up heirloom tamato panzanella in the gastropub area.

When he's not signing copies of his new book, True Italian Pasta Dishes, Quartino's John Coletta will be busy doing two cooking demonstrations: a fonduta a la valvostana (a fontina cheese fondue) and asparagi in salsa (white or green asparagus with egg sauce, capers, XVOO and more). He's also sampling out homemade longzino, a cured pork loin.

And Radhika Desai, formerly of Between Boutique Cafe, will partner up with RL's Ryan Pitts and Supreme Lobster to prepare a Lake Superior white fish cake with chorizo, pickeld baby cucumbers and saffron aioli

Norwegian Pop Princess Annie to Return with More Electropop Magic

2009-09-18T11:17:36-05:00

Some things are worth the wait and that officially includes the very-long-awaited sophomore album from Annie, who took the indie pop world by storm in 2005 with her debut, Anniemal.

The new album, Don't Stop, picks up where the first left off, but shows the Norwegian singer/DJ's musical growth. Annie has been working on the album for three years, picking up new sounds and influences along the way. She again works with collaborators Timo Kaukolampi and Richard X but also taps producer Paul Epworth (Bloc Party, Primal Scream) and Franz Ferdinand frontman Alex Kapranos. SomethingGlorious got the advance and can't stop listening.

The songs, like "Songs Remind Me of You," "Hey Annie" and "I Don't Like Your Band," have enough commercial appeal to crossover to a larger audience but still have that indy edge that first engendered the most skeptical hipsters and music critics to swoon at her vibrant, lovable songs off Anniemal, including "Heartbeat" and "The Greatest Hit," which sampled Madonna's "Everybody." This collection is undeniably catchy with Annie's breathy vocals, big dance hooks, melancholy French pop in the vein of Serge Gainsbourg and a whole pack of '80s-influenced bubblegum.There are influences of Kylie, Daft Punk, the Go Team and, dare I say, Paula Abdul.

The album isn't out in the U.S. until Nov. 17, but as SomethingGlorious gets access to MP3s, I'll post them. In the meantime, check out this video for the hot, club-ready track "Songs Remind Me of You."

Paul Kahan's Honky Tonk Tacos

2009-09-16T19:23:51-05:00

Whenever the team behind avec and Blackbird kick off a new project, the rumors swirl. Last fall, news broke that the guys—Donnie Madia, Paul Kahan and Eduard Seitan, along with Terry Alexander and Peter Garfield of the Violet Hour—took over the legendary and much-loved Pontiac space in Bucktown. Construction and renovations soon followed and while many hoped the sprawling front patio would emerge for summer, the rehab work is still going on, but is progressing at a steady clip. And the wait is almost over.

Recently, Time Out Chicago revealed that the still-unnamed spot will focus on tacos. SomethingGlorious just discovered that this new space, which is on target to open in late October barring any issues, will primarily be a bar with a walk-up taqueria (no exterior door, just a window) and will feature about 10 items on the menu, according to Executive Chef Paul Kahan. Kahan, who embarks on a SoCal "research and development" trip this week, said that he was inspired when he "ate something and loved it." The food will focus on al pastor tacos, much in the vein of Santa Barbara, Calif.-based Super Rica Taqueria, of which Kahan is a big fan and says has the best tacos he's ever eaten. While Kahan will pull inspiration from his time working alongside Rick Bayless at Frontera Grill, he wants to experiment with "fun food that tastes good," like eventually having fried chicken and mole—which is something I can definitely get down with.

The overall concept will take people back to Bakersfield, Calif., in the 1950s where people like Merle Haggard and Buck Ownes birthed honky tonk music, where migrant Mexican workers inspired food and where you could get a good, cold beer for $1. The space will have a square center bar and a number of booths, and while the bar will serve vodka, gin and run (only one of each, and I'm happy to report the vodka of choice is Tito's from Austin, Texas), the spirits program, curated by Violet Hour manager Michael Ruble, will focus primarily on tequila, beer and hard-to-find, lesser-known American whiskey (bourbon, rye, etc). Beers will be cheap and will come in both seven- and 12-ounce draft pours, so people can get a quick beer and taco or tostada (maybe even a shot of whiskey) for about $10.

Think the crowds at avec and Publican are crazy? Wait till this joint opens this fall. This will likely become the new hipster Mecca, but instead of it being only a summer spot, the interior allows for hanging throughout the winter. Rack 'em up, boys.

Dining and Drinking with Gaja

2009-09-01T22:50:00-05:00

I recently had the pleasure of having lunch with Gaia Gaja, daughter and heir to the famed Gaja Wines estate founded in 1859 in Barbaresco, Italy. Gaja wines are first rate and are considered some of the best Barbaresco in the world, consistently rating above 90 points (usually more than 93) from Robert Parker and the Wine Spectator. After tasting a few of their newest releases with Gaia at NoMI restaurant at the Park Hyatt in Chicago, I understand why. Gaia was in the U.S. meeting with various people in the wine trade to help keep the Gaja name flowing. She was a wonderful hostess—engaging, entertaining, funny and incredibly knowledgeable about her family's history and wine.

This wasn't my introduction to Gaja, mind you. I've known about and have had some of their wines in the past. But getting to taste these during a one-on-one lunch with a member of the family was a real treat. Gaia, one of three children to Angelo Gaja (the current owner and innovator), is a fifth-generation wine producer of her family's treasured wines. During a lunch overlooking Chicago and Lake Michigan, Gaia and I tasted through the 2005 Barbaresco, 2004 Rennina and 2004 Sugarille, the last two both from the Gaja's estate in Montalcino, Pieve Santa Restituta. Angelo Gaja acquired this estate, named for the small church located in the heart of the estate, in 1994 to help grow the Gaja name throughout Italy. By adding these two Brunello di Montalcino wines (both 100 percent Sangiovese), they now have bragging rights to even more of the best wines coming from Italy.

The Barbaresco, the flagship of the Gaja portfolio, is produced from Nebbiolo grapes sourced from 14 vineyards on the Gaja Estate in Piedmont, specifically in Barbaresco and Treiso. It was light and elegant with prune notes up front. As it enters the mouth, you can feel it progress as it rolls back across your tongue. At first, its tannins were not as pronounced, but grew as the wine was open. The long. layered finish was filled with raisin and raspberry notes (and maybe even some pine) and paired, surprisingly, beautifully with our apps: shiro maguro sashimi and beet salad with arugula and goat cheese. Nebbiolo does not overpower food, but rather reflects and partners with it. Such was the case with the tuna and goat cheese. Each time I had either in my mouth and took a sip, I was happily surprised with how interesting the wine tasted and brought out the flavors of the food.

Since I was having Brunello next, I knew I had to have something that could hold up against the wine. Fortunately NoMI has a flat iron steak sandwich on the menu. It's topped with a chimichuri sauce and accompanied by goat cheese and piquillo peppers. This combination of flavors on the plate were a good test to see what the Brunello would do. It didn't disappoint. The Rennina is blended from three vineyards on the estate. It was gentle and easy to drink with bold cherry, spice and clove notes to help maintain the chimichuri, and it was velvety making it easy and pleasurable to drink. The Sugarille on the other hand, was bigger, bolder and more tannic with flavors of dark purple fruit like plums, but also gave off notes of soft violets and some tobacco. This is a wine could stand to be cellared for about five years to become more expressive over time and the '04 vintage is one to seek out. That said, it's too bad Gaia didn't send me home with a bottle to store!

Salute! Raise a Glass to Italian Wines

2009-08-10T12:09:14-05:00

When many people think of Italian wine they think of Chianti Classico, but truth is, there are about 1,500 grape varieties in Italy--more than any other wine growing area in the world. Some, like Sangiovese (the grape grown in Chianti, which is a region and not a grape), Nebbiolo or Primitivo, are widespread and well known. Others are grown in small batches and produced by mom-and-pop growers who may only make enough wine for themselves and their friends and family.

Learning about Italian wines can be a heady undertaking, but if you grasp the basics, much of what you need to know falls into place. Many of the wines are named for regions or towns where they are produced, like Brunello di Montalcino (which is made of Sangiovese Grosso and grown in Montalcino in Tuscany) or Barbaresco (which comes from the Nebbiolo grape but is produced in the town or Barbaresco in the Piemonte region).

One way to dive into Italian wine is to drink a whole bunch of it. But to have some fun, I thought it could be interesting to compare some Italian wines to others you might be familiar with. I don't mean these are an exact match, but are similar in style and body and give you an idea of what to look for based on what you already like to drink.

If you like a meritage, check out Super Tuscans, which are often blended with Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and other Bordeaux-style grapes (like a meritage). These wines were first produced in the late 1960s and early 1970s after winemakers created wines that didn't fit within the DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) or DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) classifications set forth by the Italian wine governance. One winemaker in particular, Piero Antinori, whose family has been producing wine in Tuscany since the 1300s, created the first truly robust Super Tuscan in 1971. This was Tignanello (available at Binny's), and today is considered to be one of the best wines produced in Italy, if not the world. Since then, Super Tuscans, once considered mere table wines, have gained much respect around the world.

For something more affordable, grab a bottle of 2006 Aia Vecchia "Lagone" Rosso di Toscana at Sam's Wines & Spirits. From the Bolgheri area of Tuscany, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese combines flavors of berries, raisin, earth and herbs with a long finish. It went great with pizza but can work with various meats.

Syrah, or Shiraz, has grown in popularity, especially through Australian wines. If you like these medium-bodied sippers that offer robust berry and sometimes chocolate notes, pick up a bottle of Nero d'Avola or Negroamaro. Nero d'Avola, which means the "black grape of Avola," loves hot, arid climates and thrives in Sicily. It produces big, rich reds and goes well with lamb and beef. Negroamaro is also a dark, deep-colored grape producing hearty, earthy wines and grows primarily in Puglia, the "heel" of Italy's boot, where it is also hot and dry, especially in summer. It's often blended with Sangiovese or Malvasia Nera to add more fruit and aromatics. Binny's has the 2006 Ajello Majus Nero d'Avola, a bright and juicy wine with raspberry notes and a hint of spice, for $10.99. A kick ass blend that has 40 percent Negroamaro comes from Tormaresca. The Neprica, at Binny's for $8.99</a>, which also includes Primitivo and Cab, beautifully combines berries with chocolate and hints of fennel seed. It's a perfect wine for a light pasta with sausage.

One of my favorite grapes is Zinfandel and it was no surprise that when I was introduced to the "Mother Zin" a number of years ago, I fell in love with Primitivo. This is said to be the ancestor of modern California Zinfandel and it shows, especially in many of the old vines that produce some of the best wine in Italy. It's underrated and you can get some great deals on Primitivo, which offers up an explosion of blackberry, blueberry, spices and more. The Li Veli "Orion" Salentino Primitivo from Puglia has cherry and clove notes on the nose with a medium body, soft tannins and really obvious blackberry on the tongue; and it got bigger the more it was open. Grab it online at Snooth for $11.29.

Dolcetto is a good substitute for Pinot Noir, especially when you're looking for something that you can have with a light pasta lunch or an easy drinking wine on a warm summer evening. The name means "little sweet one," but many of the wines tend to be somewhat drier with noticeable tannins. This wine hails from the Piemonte region (usually from the town of Alba) and is often used as a typical table wine. Dolcettos produce nice cherry flavors with an earthy finish. Want a steal? For $9.99, pick up the Boroli Madonna di Como Dolcetto, a well-rounded beautiful wine that can drink now or after a couple years of storage and offers blackberry and spice with violet notes balanced with nice tannins and acid.

When you're looking for white wines, a great place to start your exploration is near the Alps in the Friuli and Trentino-Alto Adige regions in the northeast corner of Italy. Due to its proximity to the mountains, this area has a climate that allows the grapes to remain on the vines for a healthy growing season, with warmer days and cool nights. The area produces beautiful wines that run the gamut from crisp and floral to peachy to nutty to rounded and buttery, coming from a variety of grapes, including Friulano, Pinot Bianco, Ribolla Gialla, Verduzzo and Pinot Grigio. Grab a bottle of 2007 Marco Felluga Collio Mollamatta Bianco, a golden yellow blend of Tocai Friulano, Ribolla Gialla and Pinot Bianco showcasing citrus, banana and guava notes. It's at Wine Discount Center in Chicago for $17.99

Who doesn't love Champagne? If you're looking for a more affordable alternative that you can drink daily (because everyday is worth celebrating, right?!), try Prosecco. These wines, made from prosecco grapes, generally come from the Veneto region in the northeast part of Italy. These are generally crisp wines with nice floral notes and hints of apple or white peach and should be drunk young because they can go bad in the bottle if kept too long. These crisp and dry sparklers go really well with a variety of cheeses. Grab the Adami "Dei Casel" for $16.99 from K&L Wines.

Think that's enough for the first lesson? Good. No go out and drink.

Irony 2006 Monterey Pinot Noir

2009-07-14T20:47:57-05:00

So today being Bastille Day I wanted to do something to honor the storming of the Parisian fortress that was a major turning point in the French revolution in 1790. I had planned to crack open a bottle of French wine, but when I was going through my wine, I grabbed a bottle of Pinot Noir, a delicious Burgundian grape. But in a weird twist (ok, it really wasn't that weird) the bottle I grabbed was from Monterey County in California. Maybe call it ironic?

The Irony 2006 Monterey Pinot Noir may not be from France but it definitely is working to help celebrate the holiday. After sticking it in the fridge for about 20 minutes to bring its temperature down a bit, it took a few minutes to open and when it did, its cherry and raspberry nose was ready to go. This lighter wine is bright, silky and has a long finish with some cherry and chocolate notes. There's a bit of tannin on the tongue, but when paired with some non-smoked gouda on a buttery cracker, it softened up and everything worked really well together.

My partner is grilling homemade turkey burgers mixed with bacon, spinach, onions—and at this point, some sort of surprise. I tried to get it out of him for the purpose of this post, but he wouldn't give it up. Sometimes chefs can be finicky that way. But back to the wine.

I wasn't really too familiar with Irony until I got a couple of bottles a few weeks ago, and I'm really glad they showed up. The winery was started by brothers Chris and Jay Indelicato, whose grandfather planted vineyards back in 1924. The guys grew up working harvest, but their lives took them in a different direction when they got older, until they came back together to launch Irony. This Pinot was sourced from three different vineyards in Monterey: Arroyo Seco, San Lucas and San Bernabe. The grapes went through primary and then malolactic fermentation before being bottled in oak to age for eight months; the wine was then blended to create this vintage.

Check out the Irony website to find out where you can pick up their wine in your area. The suggested retail price is around $16 and, when compared with some French Pinots, it's a steal. This wine can hold its own against some Burgundian wines I've had. I'm looking forward to seeing how it pairs with this turkey burger surprise.

Vive La France!

[Update: the "surprise" was brie baked into the turkey burger. How do you like that? A little French surprise inside my dinner. And the wine was awesome.]

Understanding German Riesling: It's Not All Sweet

2009-07-08T00:16:09-05:00

Riesling is possibly the most misunderstood grape varietal in the wine world, especially when it comes to American palates. Ask your average wine drinker in the U.S. what they think of Riesling and they'll undoubtedly say it's sweet. In many instances they're right. But Riesling runs the gamut from super sweet dessert wines to bone dry bottles that you could even pair with a steak. Riesling, which can show peach, apple and pear notes, pairs with a variety of food from soft cheeses, pork and fish or sushi to spicy Thai dishes and Indian curries and more.

In May, I had a great opportunity to take a trip sponsored by the German Wine Institute to visit German wine-growing regions. Germany has 13 distinct growing regions, with most centered around or near the Rhine river. We spent four full days hitting three of those regions--Rheinhessen, Pfalz and Mosel--and learning all about the diversity of the Riesling grape, and let me tell you, it's diverse. Riesling, like most German wines, are classified by a number of things. With Riesling, the wine can be a kabinett (a more basic wine that tends to be drier), spatlese ("late harvest," and is sweeter), auslese ("select harvest," and even sweeter) and on to beerenauslese (a late harvest dessert wine that tends to be a bit more syrupy and sweet). The quality of the wine and whether it's trocken (dry) or suess (sweet) all depends on where it's grown and how long the grapes remain on the vine. And one of the more impressive qualities of the vineyards, at least in the Mosel region, is that many reside on very steep slopes, giving the grapes better access to sun, wind and other elements that help the them grow and produce more robust, juicy fruit.

Although I tried and enjoyed many different types of Riesling, even some Pinot Noir (locally called Spätburgunder) in the three areas, I most enjoyed the wines from the Mosel (you may recognize the former official name of the region as Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, as is printed on many classic German wine bottles). The Mosel is a colder region (where the Pflaz is the warmest and therefore is more accommodating for red wine) and therefore produces very crisp wines with pronounced acidity and brightness.

All in all, I tasted dozens of wines over the course of the trip from wineries including Gysler (a totally biodynamic winery with a beautiful, modern tasting room and is part of the "Message in a Bottle" association of young wine growers), Fitz-Ritter (Oprah loves their Gewürztraminer, which can be found in Chicago at Bin 36 and Randolph Wine Cellars); Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt (owned by the super classy Annegret Reh-Gartner, who produces award-winning and high-scoring wines that are sold in 25 countries worldwide) and Schloss Lieser, which was possibly my favorite of all. Schloss Lieser winery was in disrepair in 1992, but after four years, owner Thomas Haag brought it back to life and now his wines generally get rated between 88 to 98 points by Wine Spectator and the Wine Advocate.

One of the biggest disappointments about German wine is that more Americans don't understand and appreciate it. When I went seeking it out around town, I found most wine shops have small selections, pointing to a theory that I think most people don't realize that Riesling is more than a sweet dessert wine. Ask for the wines above at your favorite shops or check out Truly Fine Wine, a San Diego-based store (with a comprehensive website) that sells only limited-production German wine from micro vintners.

In addition to the wines mentioned above, here are a few more to check out.

Gysler 2006 Weinheimer Riesling Kabinett ($16.99 at Sam's Wines & Spirits). I had the 2008 while at the winery in the Rheinhessen and really enjoyed it, with its touch of sweetness, citrus notes and high acidity. This is a great wine for fresh seafood. If you want a real treat, seek out the Gysler 2005 Huxelbrebe, a beerenauslese dessert wine that sells for $41.99, but when its chilled viscous honey notes slink down your throat after a great meal, you'll be happy you spent the money.

Max Ferd. Richter 2007 Mulheimer Sonnenlay Riesling "Zeppelin" ($16.99 at Sam's). This winery is one of the older and more respected in the Mosel. All the wines are fermented in oak barrels and are all estate bottled. This wine features a 1920s art deco label and is a creamy yet sweet wine with gorgeous peach, apple and honey notes. According to winemaker Dirk Richter, it's his best-selling wine in the U.S. market. He also says, "A glass of Riesling a day keeps the doctor away." Who can argue with that?

Zilliken Estate 2007 "Butterfly" Riesling ($16.99 at Wine Discount Center). This is another great example of a Mosel wine: crisp and dry, lots of nice peach notes and a whole bunch of acid and minerals from the slate where the vines grow. This is a great wine to have with any spicy food since the acid will help reduce the heat from overpowering your mouth.

Clos de la Siete: A Nontraditional Malbec

2009-05-12T17:19:46-05:00

There's no question that Malbec has quickly become a favorite grape of American wine drinkers. The wine these Argentine grapes produce tends to be supple and rounded with soft tannins, allowing it to be drunk alone or with food.

I recently discovered a fantastic wine from Campo Vista Flores (just south of Mendoza, Argentina) that really knocked my socks off. The 2007 Clos de la Siete is predominantly Malbec (48%) but introduces a few other varietals to give it a real punch. The wine came to life by a group of seven Bordeaux winemakers (led by noted wine consultant Michel Rolland) who decided they wouldn't just do a Malbec. So they planted Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon as well and the result is a great bottle.

The wine is, to put it simply, big and bold. The tannins hit your palate just at the right place and leave a hint of earth as the wine goes down. But its dark and ruby hues make way for wonderful blackberry, currant, violet and cherry notes that you'll want to go back to again and again.

Buy it online now for $13.95.

Live Review: Coldplay @ United Center 7/23/08

2008-07-24T16:00:14-05:00

The Brit Boys are Big But Are They Getting Bored?

The reviews from Coldplay's current North American tour have been mixed — by both critics and fans. People who attended the band's Viva La Vida July 22 tour stop in Chicago said the sound was amazing and that it was one of the best live shows they'd ever seen. Expectations were high for last night's show, and the sold-out crowd screamed every time Chris Martin said anything into the mic — even when being goofy and cheeky while saying some canned lines he likely says at every show.

The band came out strong, walking out to the instrumental "Life in Technicolor" and then launching into a rousing version of "Violet Hill," which led to "Clocks," where the band and audience were swathed in red light and penetrated with multi-colored lasers. They played possibly every track off the new album — "Strawberry Swing" was a personal highlight — but where were the songs from the first three releases? For a show that ran nearly two hours, the band played more of a blend of greatest hits: "Yellow," "In My Place," "Fix You" (which, in true Coldplay grandiose style, was layered and beautiful), "God Put a Smile Upon Your Face" (a cool remix version that was played on a small stage that jutted out into the crowd), "The Scientist" and "Politik," which again proved the band can fill a stadium with their now larger-than-life presence. A high point came when Martin announced they were filming a video for "Lost," which the band ran through twice — apparently something they did last night as well. The second run through was definitely tighter and more on point.

However, it would've been nice to hear more of a blend from all four albums (where the hell was "Talk" and "Everything's Not Lost"?) and at some points, it felt like Coldplay was phoning in the performance. "Speed of Sound" didn't have the energy of shows past. At times, Guy Berrymore — who couldn't be bothered for some reason to return to the stage for the surprise encore of "Green Eyes," despite Martin calling out for his longtime mate and carrying on anyway — looked like he'd rather be elsewhere. Same with Jonny Buckland. If Will Champion hadn't been such a rhythmic bruiser on the drum kit, he too, may have wanted to meet up with friends at a bar instead of being on stage. To that end, the nice thing about Coldplay is that, for the most part, they seem like they enjoy each others' company and like playing with each other — not an easy task for a major act on a worldwide tour. And this isn't to say the show wasn't fun, because it was. And they sounded great. But it would've been nice to hear them sound great on a wider variety of tunes. Hopefully they'll mix it up for the rest of the tour.

Band to Watch: Sunfold; Check out new MP3

2008-07-16T17:06:19-05:00

If you want to round out your summer with some sweet, golden "wish I grew up in the '70s" tunes, pay attention to Sunfold. This North Carolina band, fronted by the not-even-legal-to-drink Kenny Florence and backed by members of Annuals, is set to release its debut, Toy Tugboats, on July 22. If the rest of the album is as catchy as this single, "Sara the American Winter," it's going to help keep things warm around these parts well into the fall.

Live Review: George Michael @ United Center, 7/9/08

2008-07-10T16:57:24-05:00

The '80s pop star proves he's still got it during this "farewell" tour

[Photos courtesy of Barry Brecheisen]

It only took 17 years, but George Michael finally returned to the big stage last night in Chicago -- and what a stage it was. Looking like a massive cascading waterfall, the multi-story-high LED backdrop—replete with light shows and now-vintage videos—flowed down to serve as Michael's stage and dance floor. The iconic '80s pop singer who has had more notoriety in the last decade for his sex scandals and drug busts put on a two-set, two-plus-hour show to a nearly sold-out United Center. Word has it that the previous show in Minneapolis only saw a half-full arena Michael allegedly played a half-assed show. Not the case in Chicago. He honestly seemed thrilled to be here and the crowd made him feel right at home.

Opening the show with a recording of "Waiting (reprise)" Michael then sauntered on stage through doors that opened in the LED and launched into the upbeat and dancy "Fast Love," setting the vibe for the rest of the show. Throughout the first set, he plucked hits from throughout his career, including two from the Wham! era: "I'm Your Man" and the energetic and solid "Everything She Wants." The crowd got down with "Father Figure" and "Too Funky," which was accompanied by the video featuring a pre-talk show Tyra looking gorgeous and young. He closed the set with "Star People" and announced he'd be back in 20 minutes.

Despite what the tabloids may have said about Michael throughout the years, there's no denying he possesses one of the greatest voices of our generation. The man has sold more than 100 million albums worldwide, has earned a number of Grammy awards and has packed stadiums and arenas from London to Los Angeles. His voice may not be as pristine as it once was, but Michael can still hit the high notes, still deliver the soul and still dance like he's having the time of his life.

That energy continued into the second set, which kicked off with a crowd-singing "Faith." It was somewhat surprising that he didn't play guitar but who's to say he actually played it in the late'-80s video or just danced with it? The sexy burlesque star Dita Von Teese filmed a video to accompany Michael's sultry remake of Nina Simone's "Feeling Good," which he introduced by saying, the song "describes my present state of mind." His cover of the Police's "Roxanne" was a little flat -- it would've been better to hear "Don't Let the Sun Go Down on Me," which he dueted with Elton John at Live Aid in 1985, but released as a single in 1991.

Before he could leave the stage, Michael kicked things up a notch—as if everything up to that point wasn't good enough. After commenting on how great it was to be living today where a man could marry a man or a woman could marry a woman, he dedicated "Amazing" to his partner, Kenny Goss. Then, to introduce "Flawless," he said, "This is probably the gayest album I ever made." And then he left the stage but quickly returned wearing a gayed-up police uniform for "Outside," the song he wrote in response to his bathroom "entrapment" in Los Angeles in 1998.

Michael treated the crowd to two encores: the first featured the beautiful but somewhat boring "Different Corner" and the rousing "Careless Whisper," but interestingly didn't include either "Cowboys and Angels" or "Praying for Time." The second, he came back and asked the crowd if we had enough energy for one more and asked what we wanted to hear. In unison, the crowd screamed "Freedom." And with that, he capped off an amazing concert, which was staged as a "thank you" to his fans for sticking by him for 25 years; he's said this is his last full-scale tour. Michael, with his trademark perma-scruff and sunglasses, gave fans what they came for and it would be a shock if anyone–the gays, the girls or the straight guys they brought–left disappointed.

For the full set list, click here.

MP3 -- Bigelf "Money, It's Pure Evil"

2008-07-02T14:18:22-05:00

When this song came across my desk (OK, my IM) about an hour ago, I couldn't believe the enormity of it. It sounds like it was made for a major arena circa 1977. L.A.'s Bigelf will drop their new album, Cheat the Gallows, Aug. 12 on Custard Records (Linda Perry's label). Check out "Money, It's Pure Evil" and listen for influences from the Beatles, Bowie, Pink Floyd — and even Lenny Kravitz (when he was still making good music). This album could be a big surprise this year — but I'm solely basing that on this one song (the tracks from their last album, which you can hear on MySpace, are decidedly heavier and darker a la Sabbath. Who knows, it could suck, but at least this song is cool). Apparently Alicia Keys is a fan. Random.

Album Review: Coldplay -- Viva La Vida or Death and All His Friends -- 4/5 stars

2008-06-17T12:01:13-05:00

Viva La Vida or Death and All His Friends breaks from the wispy pop of Coldplay's first three albums and mixes things up a bit. Gone are the easily accessible, radio-friendly chart toppers replaced with a collection of gorgeous ballads, layered symbiotic guitar-focused tracks and melancholy, insightful lyrics. But don't worry -- this is still Coldplay, only darker and more mature. The band teamed with legendary producer Brian Eno, who helped enlist diversity through sound: tribal congas permeate "Lost!"; acoustic Irish folksy guitars meet Spanish handclaps on "Cemeteries of London"; grandiose strings create mystery on "Yes"; and sunshine soundscapes on "Strawberry Swing." The album is bookended by the same instrumental loop starting on "Life in Technicolor" and taking things out on "Death and All His Friends." Viva has a well-traveled feeling, a collection of short stories that gets better with every listen. You may not immediately click with it, but give the album a few spins and you'll grow to appreciate Coldplay on a whole new level.

Hangin' with Cut Copy in Chicago

2008-06-09T13:30:15-05:00

Last month, UR Chicago spent the afternoon hanging with Australian dance/rock group Cut Copy, in town for two hyped shows at the Abbey Pub and an after party at Smart Bar. We took along our friends from VIMBY (thanks Noah!) to capture the time, where we hit Crust pizza in Wicker Park (some of the guys are vegetarian), the Intelligentsia coffee roasting works in the West Loop (apparently it's not only Chicagoans who can't get enough of those beans -- it's also the band's No. 1 North American coffee choice) and Union Park (where Cut Copy will be this summer as part of the Pitchfork Music Festival). Our final stop, before dropping the guys back at the Abbey, was a quick trip to Dusty Groove -- Chicago's premier record shop for hard-to-find vinyl for serious DJs (lead singer Dan Whitford uncovered a Chic album he didn't have -- and they guys are ga-ga for the '70s disco heroes). Overall, the day was a blast, the weather cleared up and Cut Copy -- who is one of our faves -- couldn't have been a nicer bunch of guys.

VIMBY - Cut Copy

Reason No. 36 to Love California: Gay Marriage

2008-05-15T16:45:50-05:00

No it's not the avocados; fresh sushi-grade fish; year-round hiking, surfing or biking; the abundance of hybrid cars; Half Dome; Coachella; Tahoe; Golden Gate Bridge; Hollywood or Hwy 1 (but these all pretty much kick ass). It's the fact that the California Supreme Court believes in the rights of all people.

California's high court today overturned a ruling saying that it's unconstitutional to deny gay couples the right to marry. They likened it to not allowing interracial couples to marry. The justices, in a 4-3 ruling, wrote, "In view of the substance and significance of the fundamental constitutional right to form a family relationship, the California Constitution properly must be interpreted to guarantee this basic civil right to all Californians, whether gay or heterosexual, and to same-sex couples as well as to opposite-sex couples."

This is a huge day for our country. Massachusetts made same-sex marriage legal four years ago at the same time that San Francisco Mayor Gavin Newsom started issuing marriage licenses to gay couples. All the marriages granted during that period had been nullified, but will now be reinstated. Today Newsom said, "It's a throwaway line, but I think it's true: As California goes, so goes the rest of the nation."

As a Chicago resident, I have to ask: So Mayor Daley -- when are you going to start issuing same-sex marriage licenses in the city? Let's make this happen!

Dolly Parton Live in Chicago, May 8, 2008

2008-05-09T13:27:32-05:00

"There ain't nothin' real about me but my heart," Dolly Parton told the sold-out crowd at the Chicago Theatre Thursday night, May 8. From the bleach blond wig (that she said came from a real nice Korean girl) to the voluptuous breasts (yes, they are even bigger up close -- and no, they ain't real), Dolly Parton brought her "Backwoods Barbie" tour to the Windy City -- and the crowd couldn't have been happier. The singer who has sold more than 100 million albums, has written hundreds of songs and has touched more hearts than you can shake a stick at was nothing but joyful and full of fun lovin' that night.

But one thing you notice when you're sitting up close (we lucked out and got fourth row center) is that Ms. Dolly, for all her talent and gumption, unfortunately lip synched a lot of her songs -- apparently the "ain't nothin' real" line wasn't just about her looks. This was a big surprise, and disappointment, because when you knew she was actually singing, she sounded great. But it almost didn't matter because she put on such a great show regardless. She played a bit of the banjo, harpsichord, violin, piano, recorder, a rhinestone-studded dulcimer and a worn-out, old acoustic guitar that was strapped on with nothing but a piece of rope -- apparently you can take the girl out of the Smoky Mountains but she's bringin' 'em with her wherever she goes. And thank god for that.

It was that poor upbringing that made Dolly the icon she is today. It was in that house in the backwoods where she lived with her parents and 11 siblings that Dolly first realized her talent. They'd all sing, dance and play instruments together. Her mother encouraged her and would bring the whole family down to church where her granddaddy was a Pentecostal preacher (oy, I can only imagine!) and they'd all sing and dance. She said they called them the Holy Rollers. Despite her family being dirt poor, Dolly learned that it isn't money and material possessions that make one happy, rather the love of friends and family. And a lot of that comes out in her music.

It didn't take long for her to get to a classic -- "Jolene," a song about a woman who tried to steal Dolly's husband a long time ago. She said she saw her recently and that "she doesn't look so good now," and added her trademark giggle. She introduced a number of tracks from her new album, Backwoods Barbie, including the title song, "Only Dreamin'," "Jesus and Gravity," "Better Get to Livin'," and "The Lonesomes," a surprise blues track on an otherwise mostly mainstream country album -- her first in about 20 years.

But it was her hits like the heartbreaking and autobiographical "Coat of Many Colors," "Here You Come Again" (one of my personal favorites), "Islands in the Stream" and "9 to 5" that really got the crowd up on its feet. She played two sets -- that each had a costume change (she wore a skin tight sequined white jumpsuit with a sheer coat in the first set and a red rhinestoned and fringed outfit that really put her, um, girls front and center during the second set). She also let her band -- about eight or nine players and singers -- have their moment in the second set when they ran through a medley of hits from the '50s and '60s showcasing classic songs like "Great Balls of Fire," "Johnny B. Goode" and "My Girl." Dolly encored with her biggest song, which was made even bigger by Whitney Houston, "I Will Always Love You."

Throughout it all, however, Dolly treated her fans to what they really came for -- a taste of Dolly. Even though she did lip sync some, it didn't matter. Many consider dolly an icon and a national treasure and they came to see her in all her good ole Southern glory. She told stories, cracked jokes and interacted with a number of fans. She's honest, self-deprecating and full of life. There's a reason she's one of the most successful singers -- country or mainstream -- of all time. She has a personality larger than life -- but not quite as big as her boobs. And she wouldn't have it any other way. As she says, "It costs a lot to look this cheap." Amen, sister.

Madonna Announces "Sticky & Sweet" Tour

2008-05-08T11:57:06-05:00

As if bowing at No. 1 in 27 countries around the world with her new critically acclaimed album, Hard Candy, wasn't exciting enough news this week for Madonna fans, Madge just announced the (currently) 27-city European and North American "Sticky & Sweet" tour. She will no doubt announce more cities and fill in extra dates for the ones already announced (she always does -- she played four shows in Chicago for the Confessions tour in 2006). Tickets, which range from $55-$350, go on sale Sat. May 17 at 11 a.m. CST (at least in Chicago) through Live Nation and Ticketmaster (believe me, it's worth it to pay the high price -- I sat 14th row on the catwalk that jutted out into the center of the crowd and was 5 feet from her the last time -- surreal!). The tour kicks off in Cardiff, Wales on Aug. 23 and will hit Berlin, Rome, Amsterdam, London, Paris and elsewhere across the pond before jump starting the U.S. leg Oct. 3 at the Izod (?) Center in E. Rutherford, NJ (wasn't that Giants Stadium?!). Can you stand it?

"Spider"

2008-05-04T18:25:30-05:00

This video is about 10 minutes long but is worth it. Brilliantly shocking. Watch it all the way through. It's definitely disturbing.

Radiohead Hitting North America this Summer

2008-01-09T11:07:19-06:00

Radiohead this morning announced a North American jaunt. Sort of. It will take place in two segments -- with a break in the middle for an early summer European tour. While specific dates aren't set, the band will hit the following cities:

Atlanta, Boston, Charlotte, Chicago, Cleveland, Dallas, Houston, Indy, LA, Miami, Montreal, NYC, Philly, San Diego, SF, Santa Barbara, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Toronto, Vancouver and DC.

Based on the above itinerary, it doesn't really seem like the band is playing any summer festivals -- although they do mention Chicago (Lolla?) and Philly (Vineland?) -- so who knows. But anyone hoping for Coachella or Bonnaroo ... the band isn't going anywhere near Indio or Manchester (unless LA hints toward Palm Springs, but that's a stretch). Either way, Radiohead is coming to America -- get psyched. Will they play sheds? small theaters? More info and exact dates coming soon...

Acclaimed DJ BT Searching for Missing Daughter

2008-01-07T17:25:05-06:00

** This Just In **

Acclaimed artist/producer BT speaks out on his missing daughter, Kaia Transeau, age 3- ½. Kaia was abducted over three weeks ago by her mother. There has been no contact since the first few days. BT is making all reasonable efforts to find his daughter. Currently Kaia has been placed on the national missing persons NCIC (National Crime Information Center) list (phone number 1-304-625-2000).

BT states, “I am diligently and delicately working to do everything possible to amend this tragic family situation. As a father my only goal is to get my daughter back home. I appreciate your continued support and understanding in this desperate hour.”

TV on the Radio Entering Studio

2008-01-04T12:49:16-06:00

Indie faves TV on the Radio are set to enter a Brooklyn recording studio in the coming weeks. While there isn't a lot of news to report, I can say that Kyp Malone and Tunde Adebimpe have written a whole mess o' songs. Guitarist Dave Sitek will produce (he's worked with Yeah Yeah Yeahs, Scarlett Johansson, Beck and NIN) and the band is scheduled to start mixing around March (assuming all goes well with the recordings). No word yet on what guests will join them, but knowing TVOTR, they'll likely invite some influential musical pals into the studio. Unlike TVOTR's last album, 2006's Return to Cookie Mountain, whose release was held up with legal wranglings with their former label, Touch and Go, this still-untitled set will hopefully come out in the fall.

Binocular Soccer

2008-01-01T18:08:13-06:00

this is an absolutely hilarious clip from a 1984 show hosted by Japanese comedian Takeshi Kitano.

two questions:
1. Why soccer with binoculars (if for no other reason than to make stoners laugh)?
2. What's up with those insane outfits?

watch and laugh...

Dry Hands Fast

2007-12-27T15:07:14-06:00

You have to wonder why more businesses don't install the XLerator in their bathrooms

One to Watch: Neimo

2007-12-27T15:01:24-06:00

Is it actually possible to have another great rock band thrust at us from Paris (other than Phoenix, of course)? Where the band sings in English and doesn't have a hint of an accent -- and does it well? Neïmo might just be the next great hope to break through on our side of the pond (although they're kind of cheating now by moving to the US to tour throughout 2008). The band is parts rock and parts glam – think Velvet Underground meets Marc Boland and then runs into Frank-N-Furter doing lines with the Strokes. They have the package: fuzzed-out guitars, electro synts and commanding (sometimes insipid), storytelling vocals. They're going to hit SXSW – and I think they're going to be one of the buzzier bands down there. If CBGBs were still around -- or if Neïmo were around in the late '70s -- they might be mentioned alongside the Ramones and Blondie. Bold statement? Sure. Check for yourself on their MySpace.

Welcome Back Rotter

2007-12-19T12:09:00-06:00

My pals over at Rotter and Friends have just released a slew of new T-shirt designs, one featuring an exclusive drawing by former Welcome Back Kotter star Ron Palillo, who you likely remember better as the funny and endearingly annoying Horshack. The intricate design is the first of two limited edition pieces commissioned, and it's printed on a mint-colored T and is available exclusively at the Rotter and Friends pop-up holiday shop at Moli.com for both men and women for $37. Don't walk ... run, because they will likely run out. This is a collector's item.

New Cut Copy Mix

2007-12-19T11:53:03-06:00

Hot Aussie indie dance rockers cum DJs (their 2006 FabricLive mix last year was truly amazing and one of my fave mixes to come out of the London super club) just dropped a new mix -- and we're one of the first places in the US to have it (it was sent to my magazine, UR Chicago, as an exclusive from Modular Records). Based on what they've released in the past -- and how they (really lead singer/songwriter Dan Whitford) made me shake my booty with the FabLive mix, this one should be setting dance floors ablaze in no time. The mix features songs from Cut Copy's forthcoming album, In Ghost Colours (gotta love the non-American spelling), out April 8. It follows up their smash 2004 debut, Bright Like Neon Love, which was an album that I at first dismissed but revisited a year later and wondered why I had stayed away so long. Don't make the same mistake -- get on the Cut Copy bandwagon, you won't be disappointed.

Download the new mix here.

Alinea's Grant Achatz Beats Cancer, in Remission

2007-12-18T16:11:37-06:00

After undergoing groundbreaking chemo and radiation to help eradicate the cancer of the mount and tongue (officially called stage 4 squamous cell carcinoma) famed and celebrated Chef Grant Achatz of Chicago's Alinea is in remission. I just received this letter from Grant, sent by his publicist:

"It is with a tremendous sense of gratitude and relief that I have successfully completed my course of therapy at the University of Chicago. It was incredibly important to me to remain as engaged as possible at Alinea while receiving treatment, and during that time I only missed 14 services. I continue to stand committed to innovating fine dining long into the future.

At this time I want to thank everyone at Alinea -- the staff, investors, and patrons of the restaurant have offered their unwavering commitment and support in ways large and small. The community of restaurants, chefs, and industry professionals who reached out to us was exceptionally gratifying.

Most of all, I must make special mention of doctors Vokes, Blair, and Haraf at the University of Chicago Medical Center, as well as the countless number of medical professionals and support staff there who cared for me. Where other doctors at prominent institutions saw little hope of a normal life, let alone a cure, these doctors saw an opportunity to think differently, preserve my tongue and taste, and maintain a long term high quality of life. Through the use of a new and rigorous Chemotherapy and Radiation protocol, they were able achieve a full remission while ensuring that the use of invasive surgery on my tongue was not needed. Onward."

Koko, Ike, Miguel, Joan Win Indie Music Awards

2007-12-18T14:31:21-06:00

Chicago blues diva Koko Taylor, Bay Area down-tempo/house genius Miguel Migs, legendary (albeit douchey) R&B guitarist/songwriter Ike Turner and indie rockers Joan as Police Woman, Apples in Stereo and the Silver Seas (!!!!) were all named winners in the 7th annual Independent Music Awards. The awards were chosen by an international panel that included the Kinks' Ray Davies, Mavis Staples, Snoop Dogg, Suzanne Vega, Judy Collins, music journo Anthony DeCurtis and many more.

Want a complete list of winners? Go here.