Aroma Cucina

Roasted Chicken Bits, Olives and Tomatoes

2009-12-04T21:28:05-05:00

I confess. I hang my head in shame. I’ve completely fallen off the local and in-season wagon. I bought tomatoes, not only that but I bought tomatoes with a bar code! I couldn’t help myself, I missed having tomatoes so much, I caved. I’ll never achieve sainthood, but I have figured out a way to make winter tomatoes taste good. Not those big round tomatoes, which are hopeless, but the smaller grape tomatoes as they have a more intense flavor.

The other advantage to this dish is that you set it up in about 10 minutes, into the oven for 40 minutes and you’re done. No fuss and very little mess.

Roasted Chicken Bits, Olives and Tomatoes

Chicken thighs for 2, about ¾ of a pound, more if you’re extra hungry

15 grape tomatoes

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and thinly sliced

1 handful pitted black olives

¼ t dried oregano

Olive Oil

1 glug of red wine

Lemon Wedges

Salt, Pepper, 2 T flour for dredging.

Turn oven on to 350F/180C

Chicken thighs taste better than chicken breasts, try them, they’re also cheaper than chicken breasts. Cut the thighs up into small chunks and lightly flour the pieces.

Brown the pieces in a few tablespoons of olive oil.

While the chicken is browning, peel and sliver the garlic and place into a small roasting pan (preferably clay), add the tomatoes and oregano. When the chicken pieces are nicely browned, pour them into the roasting pan, deglaze the pan with a small shot of red wine, mix together and put in the oven. No, I didn’t forget about the olives. About 10 minutes before the chicken is done, add the olives. The olives are a much stronger flavor and adding them later will keep the flavor more separate rather than totally integrated. Gives you flavor variety from bite to bite.

Serve with some lemon wedges and a crisp white wine and maybe some bread to soak up the juices.

P.S. Roasting the little grape tomatoes with the garlic and oregano makes a nice side dish all by itself. Put the tomatoes in a small roasting dish, add some garlic, sprinkle of salt and oregano, splash of olive and roast until they soft but not totally mushy. Works well with a simple piece of grilled meat.

A Montone Calendar for 2010

2009-12-04T11:56:51-05:00

I'd like to share a labor of love with you. I've put together a calendar for 2010 with photos of our beloved Montone, lots of food, and a little bit of New York. It's available through Lulu.com...click the link at the left. I promise there are no incriminating photos of anyone! And you know I've got them!

Roast Pear Salad with Blue Cheese

2009-12-01T03:00:00-05:00

Life gets hectic this time of year so it’s time to rely on quick, easy, satisfying and easy to clean. If it’s going to be dinner, then it needs to satisfy

1 Pear, a firm pear, not over ripe

Salad greens for two, a mild green like baby romaine works well

Vinaigrette (olive oil, vinegar and mustard)

3-4 oz blue cheese like Gorgonzola or Bleu d’Avergne

Optional: pomegranate arils, walnuts, bacon or pancetta bits

Preheat oven to 180C/350C

Slice the pear in half and scoop out the seeds and core, leaving a half circle. Taking half of the cheese, press the cheese into the pear, keeping the cheese within the confines of the scooped out area. Roast the pear until the cheese is melty and bubbly, about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile wash your salad greens. I don’t care if the bag says triple washed; wash the greens anyway.

Make your vinaigrette: 3 parts olive oil to 1 part vinegar and 1 teaspoon of grained mustard.

Prepare your optionals: toast the walnuts, fry the bacon or pancetta, separate the arils from the pomegranate.

When the pear is ready, toss the salad with vinaigrette, add your accoutrements (that would be the walnuts etc.), open a bottle of wine, put on a good movie on and enjoy.

Thanksgiving Traditions

2009-11-30T13:07:46-05:00

I hope everyone had a very fun and tasty Thanksgiving weekend. For those of you not in the States: it’s a marvelous holiday that still hasn’t been overly tarnished by commercialism. Friends and family meet for a meal, and that is what Thanksgiving is all about.

Our Thanksgiving was a happy marathon of seeing family and friends, drinking amazing wines, preparing and eating some seriously good food.

We try to observe and uphold tradition in our family and two things that are absolute necessity are Oysters Rockefeller and toys at the table.

We’ve progressed from hanging spoons on our noses to blowing up latex gloves and putting them on our heads, I really don’t know how to describe the mayhem that was caused by the walnuts with the condoms inside and there isn’t much that can top the hillbilly fake teeth, although this year’s fake mustaches and red wax lips were pretty hilarious. Picture a large table of food, mashed potatoes piled high, sweet potatoes covered in walnuts, juicy turkey, gravy, ok you get the picture. Everyone comes to the table and immediately dives for their red wax lips.

Although to be fair, the other cause of frenzy in our family is the Oyster Rockefeller feast. My cousin makes THE best oyster Rockefeller in the universe. Really.

Goes like this:

1) Procure a lot of oysters.

2) Wake up early on Turkey Day and scrub a lot of oysters. This is a labor of love, lots of cold water and grit.

3) Assemble shucking team in the basement, near the woodworking equipment.

This is an all male team and it was a proud day, a few years back, when my son made the team.

4) Designated Swamp Girl and Cheese Girl must be in position.

Swamp is the mixture of chopped spinach, garlic, walnuts and sour cream that gets placed in precise amounts on top of the opened oyster.

Cheese Girl sprinkles the cheese on top of the swamp and takes care of oyster baking tray management.

Cheese Girl must be young and pretty. Alas, my cheese days are over and I’m now Swamp Girl.

5) Trays of oysters go into the oven until the oysters are bubbling hot.

6) Everyone gathers around, burning their fingers on the shells, and slurping

down the delicious contents.

Is it true that laughter aids digestion?

The Saturday after Thanksgiving is developing into the Anti-Turkey festival. All the people who couldn’t gather on Thursday gather on Saturday for a lobster feast. Of course this involves the ritual of hypnotizing all of the lobsters so that they will be relaxed, happy and tender. This year, we were also treated to a truly outstanding ceviche, and I vote this gets added to the annual, traditional Anti-Turkey menu.

All of this is just my way of saying that I’m thankful, happy and grateful to have my family, to share laughter and to embrace tradition.

A strega without her broom.

2009-11-22T12:10:44-05:00

A strega is a witch and I’m feeling like a strega without a broom. No, I'm not talking about cleaning; I’m talking about not having my familiars about, my spices, herbs, oils, vinegars, my tools of the kitchen trade.

Coming back to NYC, to an empty kitchen is one thing. But as I go around the kitchen seeing what I need to start cooking again, I’m realizing what a disconnect the average US person has from their food supply. I’ve gotten used to getting my eggs from Bruce’s obliging chickens, I reach for chili peppers that I grew and dried, I have jars of summer produce and I know I shared the same hot summer sun as that basil, buying cheese isn’t a plastic shrink wrapped affair, it’s a trip to the cheese maker, which involves having a long chat about life and only then do I get the carefully wrapped piece of cheese. It sounds so romantic and nostalgic, but that’s because how many of us feed and clean out a chicken house, or get up pre-dawn to milk sheep? Romance is more fun that reality which is why we make love in the dark. The older you get, the darker the room…but I digress.

Romanticism aside, I was physically connected to my food and now I’m in the city buying food that I don’t know anything about it. According to the last US Census in 2000, 80% of us live in urban areas. Since you are reading this, it’s safe to assume you care about food and know what time of year tomatoes are at their peak. It’s also a reasonable bet that you are in the minority. After a screening of the film, Food Inc., at the New School, there was an excellent discussion panel led by Jill Richardson, and she told of talking to people who literally thought that spaghetti was a plant, or that pumpkins grew on trees. Sounds ridiculous, but what if you never had any opportunity or reason to know better? It’s like having street smarts: I don’t walk around with my handbag open or put it on the back of my restaurant chair, but that nice lady from a small town in Iowa who is an instant target for an urban pickpocket, how should she know better? Tomatoes are always in the supermarket, apples are always in the supermarket, and cherries appear at Christmas time, how would someone know the season for these fruits?

Food Inc. is a cornerstone film in the way that Inconvenient Truth was. It’s a wake up call to everyone that we need to look at what’s going on with our food sources and the culture of eating. The film attempts to highlight many of the key areas of concern: industrialized meat operations, consolidation of crops, exploitation of workers, obesity, fuel and water consumption, cheap junk food versus expensive healthy food, the implications of patenting seeds, etc. etc. etc. etc. But, the part that struck home for me was the family that ate dinner together….in their car, after getting a drive through hamburger meal. The mother’s reason was long working hours so cooking was impossible and it was cheaper. She also had been under the impression that a drive-thru burger meal was healthy. The camera then follows them into a supermarket where we see that chips and soda are much cheaper than some broccoli.

My heart broke. I think the family may have been Mexican-American, so somewhere in that mother’s history is a long and beautiful culinary tradition. Where did it go? How did it get lost? What happened that we are so disconnected from our food? What legacy will she give to her daughters?

After the film and the panel discussion with Peter Pringle, Bryan Walsh and Marion Nestle, there was Q&A time and one audience member made a staggering point: food memories are a very strong touchstone. If the times you remember eating as a family are shared at a McDonalds, then the smell of McDonalds will always be warm and fuzzy and comforting.

There is no magic bullet cure, we are talking about a systemic multi-generational disconnect from our food, loss of cooking skills and the benefits of dining together.

The film cobbled together some band-aid slogans as a tagline to make us all feel better: Eat organic. Plant a garden. Etc.

These are noble sentiments, not a guide to a return to respecting our food.

The last audience member asked a simple question of the panel, “What can I do?” And a very wise Marion Nestle replied, “Pick one cause.” She’s right; no one person can provide us with solutions. Stonyfield's Organic Yogurt is now available at Wal-Mart; that was Gary Hirschberg’s small step towards bringing a good product to many.

My battle? Bringing people back together to the dining room table and letting people know that cooking isn’t so hard.

See the film. Make some choices of your own.

City Life

2009-11-20T19:14:37-05:00

I've traded in my garden clippers and my canning pot for some heels and a cocktail! Although a Manhattan may have been more appropriate, we decided to celebrate our re-entry into city life with a Champs Elysee.

1.5 oz Cognac

.5 oz green Chartreuse

.25 oz lemon juice

1/8 oz simple syrup & 2 dashes Angostura bitters

Shake Stir Shoes Optional

Goodbye Country Life!

2009-11-18T11:06:00-05:00

The orto is ready for its long winter nap, we're taking in the flowers, closing the shutters and getting
ready to see friends and family in the States.

I've bottled the last of the green tomatoes, eaten the last of the goose eggs, and actually...there is no food left in the house, so it must be time to go. We're always sad as we leave, I hate the good-bye season, but I'm very much looking forward to the hello season!

Ciao and see you Stateside!

Cream of Cauliflower Soup with Truffles

2009-11-17T06:55:00-05:00

While summer vegetables get all the gushing praise and glossy photos, what of the lowly winter vegetables? To me, they are every bit as wonderful: all the root vegetables, leeks, cardoons, artichokes, bitter greens, they all lend themselves to hearty preparations.

And now is the season of the cauliflower in all its glory. We love it roasted, sauteed, braised, creamy and in a soup. Here's a simple cauliflower soup that gets a boost of elegance from truffles.

1 medium head of cauliflower

3-4 cups of good chicken stock

1/2 medium sliced onion

3-4 T heavy cream

Combine the roughly chopped cauliflower with the stock and onion and boil until tender. Season to taste with salt, puree until smooth, adding just enough cream to bring everything together, finish with a swirl of truffle oil. See, told you it was easy.

Le Logge Ristorante, Citta di Castello

2009-11-16T03:55:19-05:00

La Logge is tucked away in the atrium building off the main piazza in Citta di Castello, and they have quietly been developing a fine restaurant. We’ve gone a number of times now and have impressed with their creative menu, execution, presentation and obvious love of what they do.

The three young proprietors have created a chic, modern and inviting space housed inside a gracious vaulted ceiling dining room. Now that the cold weather is upon us, a very warm crackling fire welcomes the hungry diner. The wine list is a careful selection of Umrian wines and a few choice regional Italian wines. And by choice, I don’t just mean expensive, I mean they are good choices.

Recently the fall menu included a number of white tartufo selections, and even though this is not a good truffle year in Umbria, their truffles were pungent and delicious. Memories of their steak covered in white truffles will sustain me through a long truffle-less winter in New York. And just for the record, a salad with truffles isn't bad either!

Last Saturday night was the one year anniversary party for Le Logge and we were happy to be there as the good food, good wine and good cheer flowed. Photos of everyone gnawing away at fabulous bistecca will be kept private!

So, to Arlind, Natascia and Michele: Auguri!! Complimenti! E ci vediamo nella primavera!

Le Logge Ristorante

Piazza Matteotti (Logge Bufalini)

Citta di Castello, PG

Tel: 075-864-2304

info@ristorantelelogge.com

Sautéed Cavatelli with Radicchio

2009-11-14T11:19:52-05:00

Our friend Toni recently gifted me with 4 goose eggs which she assured me were great for making fresh pasta. Is it just my imagination or do people just get a kick of giving me large quantities of challenging ingredients? I’m not complaining I’m just wondering out loud.

Goose eggs are HUGE. It has the most gratifying heft in your hand, thick sandstone colored shell; gigantic bright orange yolk and water clear white. An average chicken egg’s contents weighs about 45-50 grams, a goose egg weighs in at around 125 grams. Doing a rough comparison, goose eggs are higher in calories, protein and cholesterol. It is the protein part that intrigues me because the pasta dough had a much drier and slicker hand feel than chicken egg pasta. I opted to make cavatelli, which in retrospect was a good choice, because I think goose egg pasta lends itself to a chunkier, heavier style pasta. I used a traditional 2:1 ratio of flour to egg, and actually had to cut back a bit on the flour because the dough was becoming too stiff and dry.

The fun part was the ‘sauce’, not really a sauce but more of a condiment.

Radicchio Guanciale Gorgonzola Sauce

1 radicchio head, thinly sliced

1 medium onion, thinly sliced

¼ cup guanciale, pancetta or bacon

1//4 cup fresh walnuts, roughly chopped

3 T Gorgonzola dolce, the soft kind

Balsamic Vinegar

Salt, Pepper

About 4 minutes before your pasta is done, start the sauce.

Sauté the pancetta, then add the onion and finally the radicchio. Use a sauté pan big enough to hold the drained, cooked pasta. Sauté the vegetables until everything is tender and wilted.

When the pasta is done, drain and add to the sauté pan and cook until slightly browned. Toss in the walnuts. Adjust for salt and pepper.

Plate the pasta and add a nugget of Gorgonzola in the center, sprinkle on a bit of good balsamic vinegar. Eat.

A note about walnuts: Discovery! Fresh walnuts make a huge difference. I’ve always used the grocery store walnuts in a bag, and you know, uh, they have a mild walnut taste. We were given a huge bag of very fresh walnuts (see what I mean… people give me great stuff!) and Jeff was my hero and shelled the whole lot of them. They are so flavorful and oily…grocery store walnuts just won’t cut it anymore. I’m such a snob.