Traditional German Riesling relies a great deal on the soil to give the wine its character, aroma, palate, and structure. Towards that end, one of the objectives of producers who specialize in dry Riesling is to have the wine express the minerality and nature of the vineyard. The more minerals and volcanic soil in the vineyard, the better the wine. Combine this with other factors, such as a steep slope, southern-facing exposure, and proximity to the Rhine to moderate the climate and reflect the sun, and you have the makings of a top vineyard.

As mineral-rich soil is paramount to creating a quality wine, top German producers focus their efforts in the vineyard, preferring to tamper as little as possible with the vinification process. Patience is also a virtue, as the most respected and valuable grape variety, Riesling, ripens so late an October harvest is common. Keeping grapes healthy and flourishing during the long growing season from spring to near-fall is always a challenge.

One of the most famous names in the Riesling world, Weingut (winemaker) Helmut Dönnhoff operates from the Nahe region of Germany. From his many soil-specific vineyards, he offers a superb selection of dry and off-dry wines, universally prized for their balance, structure, and intense minerality. An attractive and elegant man with an air of calm confidence, Helmut Dönnhoff focuses on coaxing the best expression of the Riesling grape from vineyards famed for centuries for their volcanic soil and variety of minerals.

You do not need to be a Riesling scholar in order to immediately understand the power, beauty, and balance of Dönnhoff’s wine. Even if you are new to the Riesling grape varietal, you'll notice at first sip that these wines have a delicious and subtle balance between the fruit and acidity hard to find anywhere else. Dönnhoff and critics are quick to attribute this to the soil, especially of the Hermannshohle vineyard, as well as the well-positioned aspect of the vineyard which is on a steep slope which receives a great deal of sun.

As Dönnhoff explains his philosophy on winemaking, he reveals the winery does not have a web site. Why not, you wonder? Doesn’t he need to sell his wine? As it turns out, the wine is strictly allocated and he does not produce enough wine to meet the demand. Well, why not make more? After all, it’s the American way. Refreshingly, Dönnhoff takes a more European view. Life is to be enjoyed. All is well as is, so why change?

Weingut Dönnhoff
Bahnhofstrasse 11, 55585 Oberhausen a. d. Nahe
Phone: +49 (0)6755-263, Fax: +49 (0)6755-1067
weingut@doennhoff.com

From left, Roger Dagorn, Tracy Ellen Kamens Ed.D., DWS, Cheri Magid, and Pat Savoie, WMG President, with Roger Dagorn.

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In Germany, the word “schloss” means castle or “manor house.” These are historic structures, many first built during the Roman times near the very best vineyards in the land. The idea was to create a grand estate to showcase the quality of the vineyards and the wine.

With wineries in San Ynez, California considered old at twenty, a 650-year-old winery seems very ancient indeed. Yet this is the age of Schloss Schonborn in Germany’s Rheingau region, which goes back to 1349. Owned by Paul Graf von Schonborn-Wiesentheid, it is the largest family owned estate in the Rheingau comprising some 125 acres (50 hectares) of top vineyard sites. The winery has recently been modernized with stainless steel tanks. Many of the wines produced here make their way to Asia and North America so look for the brand on your wine store shelf.

What makes the Riesling of Schloss Schonborn special are the south facing vineyards which face the Rheingau river, reflecting the sun and warming the vines. The family had been active in the Catholic church for centuries, hence their ability to get the best vineyard sites.

Visit the ancient, dust- and spider web-covered cellars and you realize that some of the very old bottles inside have survived the Napoleonic wars, the Franco-Prussian War, WWI, and WWII. Many of the bottles date from 1735, and our host, Peter Barth, technical director, describes that they have held up well over the last three centuries.

Weingut Schloss Schönborn
Contact: Herr von den Benken
Hauptstr. 53, 65347 Hattenheim
Phone: +49 (0)6723-91810, Fax: +49 (0)6723-918191
schloss-schoenborn@schoenborn.de

Schloss Vollrads is another ancient castle, dating from the 14th century. Wine is produced and sold here, with the added benefit of the castle estate open to the public as a venue to eat in its stellar restaurant, hold a business conference, or stage a wedding.

The restaurant, I might add, is fabulous. You can find both German and continental cuisine, prepared with as much attention to detail as a five-star restaurant in Manhattan. Service is quite formal, with our servers seeming to pride themselves on getting everything just right. And, of course, the view is magical. A couple dining at another table, who looked to be first-time daters, seemed visibly carried away by the cuisine, view, and ambiance.

At the heart of the palace complex is a majestic tower surrounded by a rectangular moat that is only accessible by bridge. The greater part of Schloss Vollrads as its stands today is the work of architect Johann Erwein, and the many armorial designs decorating the farm buildings, the cavalier’s house, and the gateway to the garden bear witness to his remarkable building activity. The most recent alterations to the palace were initiated in 1907-1908 by Countess Clara Matuschka-Greiffenclau, whose family tree can be traced back to 1097. Many of the Greiffenclau family were prominent personalities who served as patrons of the arts, as well as archbishops and electors of Mainz and Trier, and prince bishops of Würzburg. Today the estate is owned by the Nassauische Sparkasse (Nassau Savings Bank) dedicated to carrying on the estate’s great viticultural tradition.

Schloss Vollrads
Contact: Hans-Joachim Binz, Rowald Hepp
65375 Oestrich-Winkel
Phone: +49 (0)6723-660, Fax: +49 (0)6723-6666
info@schllossvollrads.com

"Riesling pure" is the philosophy of the estate, particularly since Hochheim is credited for the worldwide first documentation of Riesling in history some 550 years ago. The Riesling wines are rich in high mineral content due to the soil, and two types of Riesling are made. The first is a classic fruity style with overwhelming richness of elegant fruit and spiciness, and the second is a dry style with good substance and a moderate, harmonious acidity.

Dr. Michel, a handsome man in a tweed jacket, looks and conducts himself like a college professor, not particularly surprising for he had been the director at Geisenheim University. He has a natural elegance and charming manner that Americans might best associate with the classy, well-mannered, European aristocrats sometimes seen in black and white classic films.

The winery got its start in 1780, when the renowned "Domdechant" (dean) of the Cathedral of Mainz acquired the Hochheim wine estate from the Count York. Domdechant Werner is credited with having saved the cathedral from being demolished during the French Revolution and was responsible for its reconstruction.

Visits typically begin with an introduction to the area on Dr. Michel’s pretty flower-covered porch, as he explains the soils and latitude of his grand cru vineyards which are known in German as "erstes gewächs" or “first growth.” The vineyards are planted to Riesling (98%) and Spätburgunder or Pinot Noir (2%) and all are located on gentle slopes facing south with chalky soils rich in minerals. According to the estate's chronicle, its wines were sold at auction as early as 1795.

The single vineyard names appearing on the bottlings are Domdechaney, Kirchenstück, Hölle, Stein, Stielweg, and Reichestal. Riesling takes dramatically different form depending on which vineyard it is from. In the sweeter styles, I preferred grapes grown on Domdechaney, whereas for drier styles I preferred Kirchenstück. Dr. Michel is eager to hear the preferences of guests, and answer any questions he can.

Describing the house is as essential as describing their award-winning Riesling, as it is a gorgeous yellow structure seemingly plucked right out of a fairy tale, with flowers everywhere. Inside are mounted oil paintings of serious looking ancestors (many of them clergy), antiques, and many lovingly framed black and white pictures of family members from the 18th and 19th centuries. During my visit, I also meet the toddler generation who will surely be running the winery in twenty years time.

You can find this fantastic wine on the shelves of your favorite wine store, or buy from an online shop. Better yet, book a flight to Germany and set up a meeting with Dr. Werner in advance. The opportunity to taste and discuss wines with this most knowledgeable and gracious gentleman is an experience you will never forget.

Domdechant Werner´sches Weingut
Contact: Dr. Franz W. Michel
Rathausstr.30, 65239 Hochheim
P.O.Box 1205, 65234 Hochheim
Phone: +49 (0)6146-835037, Fax: +49 (0)6146-835038
weingut@domdechantwerner.com

“I almost prefer inhaling to actually tasting,“ Johannes Leitz told importer Thierry Thiese in an interview. “I can’t really love a wine regardless of how it tastes if it doesn’t excite me on the nose.” I find this quote represents a very keen insight into a remarkable winemaker who is passionate about his vines. Of course, Riesling is such an aromatic varietal being able to inhale the aroma is usually easy. Johannes specifically used the word “excite” which is something else entirely.

With people who already know and love quality Riesling, I sometimes use the expression “like biting into a rock” to describe the rapture of how a wine tastes. The term is used to describe the incredible interplay of minerals and sometimes, volcanic soil, that can be found in quality Rieslings, an aroma and palate so pronounced the taster feels he or she is tasting the terroir of the land the grapes grew on, as well as the rich concentration of fruit.

Meeting Johannes Leitz on a bright fall day in his gorgeous, glass-enclosed tasting room that looks out over the vineyards, I am impressed by his enthusiasm and energy. In person, he is animated and straightforward, freely expressing his passion for his grapes and his vineyards. Weingut Josef Leitz dates back to 1744 and, like so many wineries in the Rheingau region, has passed from father to son for virtually four centuries. Fate put a crimp in the legacy as Johannes’ father died when he was an infant, leaving his mother to support the family with a flower shop business and await the time when Johannes came of age and could take the reins.

By the time he was in his mid-twenties, Johannes connected with importer Thierry Thiese, and today has more than 26 hectares of vineyards and produces 10,000 cases of wine. You have probably seen a bottle of his famed “Dragonstone” in your local wine shop. “It’s a fantasy name,” Johannes tells me. By this I infer Johannes is also trying to make the wine user-friendly to the millennial generation who grew up on Harry Potter novels and play video games like World of Warcraft. This dry wine hails from Leitz’s Drachenstein vineyard, is reasonably priced, and pairs well with a wide variety of food. Its numerous awards and user-friendly label have helped its popularity in America’s wine shops and restaurants.

During my sampling of ten wines, I found all to be enormously rich with a variety of minerals. Looking over my scribbled tasting notes, I see words not used for any other winery, including “grey slate” and “iron in slate” reflecting the varied terroir of his vineyards. My favorite wine, underlined and circled with zeal, was the 2007 Rudesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Spatlese with its aroma of heirloom apples, slate, and rose that is echoed on the palate with a dazzling finish. This vineyard is known for its quartzite soil, with the age of vines between twenty and forty years.

Weingut Leitz is known for his first growth Riesling vineyards, and his insistence on low yields and high standards of vintage management. He is considered a rising star in the Rheingau and Germany, with his wines already receiving accolades by sommeliers and winning awards at competitions. If you would like to visit and taste, use the contact info below.

Weingut Josef Leitz
Contact: Johannes Leitz
Theodor- Heuss- Straße 5, 65385 Rüdesheim am Rhein
Phone: +49 (0) 6722- 48711, Fax: +49 (0) 6722- 47658
johannes.leitz@leitz-wein.de

Looking from the label to Martin Tesch, indeed I can see a flicker of resemblance, albeit the two gentlemen have been separated by three centuries and are opposite ends of the spectrum in terms of attire. Whereas the ancient Mr. Tesch’s picture appears the height of formality, Martin Tesch is dressed like a surfer from Santa Barbara, California in a faded t-shirt and jeans. Still, both men have lived on the family estate, walked the same Nahe village streets, and toiled in the same vineyard soil.

”Any other similarities?” I ask Dr. Tesch, who despite his casual attire is quite formal in manner and has a degree in microbiology. To answer my question, Tesch reveals that his family has the diary of that ancient family winery founder, and that his ancestor’s concerns about the family wine business, including market and weather conditions, echo his own.

Now if you are new to wines from Germany, realize that Riesling is king. Riesling is a white-skinned, late-ripening varietal that does well in Germany’s cool climate, especially on steep vineyards with mineral rich soil that happen to face south and reflect the radiant heat from the Rhine river. Perhaps more than any other grape in the world, Riesling takes on a variety of expressions depending on the soil, the vintage, the steepness of the slope, the proximity to water, and exposure to the sun. Beyond dry Riesling you also have the complex world of off-dry Riesling, sweet Riesling, and the luscious botrytized dessert wines known as Trokenbeerenauslese (TBA) and Beerenauslese.

But this article is about Martin Tesch and his focus on dry Rieslings. The Tesch wine estate is located in the Nahe region in Southwest Germany, with grapes grown on vineyards classified as “Grand Cru” or “Grosses Gewachs” in German. Here vineyards are shielded from the harsh west wind, and thrive on soils rich in minerals from an ancient seabed. Tesch pulls out a jar of shark teeth his kids collected in the vineyard to give a clear sense of this ancient, mineral-rich terroir.

Upon his father’s retirement, Martin Tesch looked at the winery’s accounting books, examined the marketplace for Riesling, and made his decision to focus exclusively on the production of quality dry wine. In 2002 he grubbed up vines, replanted, and stopped producing any medium-dry Rieslings. His goal was to return to the basics of authenticity, balance, and complexity.

Towards that end, he created the new international favorite, called Riesling Unplugged – a name clearly meant for the MTV generation. The wine is as natural as you can get, with tremendous value placed on environment-friendly viticulture. The wine is untreated, meaning no must concentration or chaptalisation (the producure of adding sugar to the wine to increase alcohol). The result is a dry, light wine with intense minerals and concentrated fruit on the nose, and a long palate with refreshing acidity.

Dining in the Bellpepper restaurant of the five-star Hyatt hotel in the city of Mainz recently, I was delighted to see Riesling Unplugged on the wine list – and promptly ordered it. With every sip, I remembered the meeting Dr. Tesch was so kind to give, and the sharks’ teeth his children collected in the vineyard which, no doubt, gives Riesling Unplugged its mineral-rich signature flavor.

Things are a bit different at Kendermann, which bills itself as the number one “new generation” wine brand, reaching annual sales of 250,000 cases. Instead of a quaint farmhouse, Kendermann is headquartered in a large, modern-looking building with busy-looking, sharply dressed executives rushing about and the fragrance of fresh brewed espresso in the air. You sense a vibrating energy in the air that is almost palpable – these executives are on a mission. And you can see evidence of it when you learn that in ten years, Kendermann has won more national and international awards than any other German wine brand and according to Nielson, a respected company that measures such things, is one of the fastest growing wine brands in the UK.

Successful wine sales takes more than good quality wine, or simply savvy marketing. Kendermann has both, and has found success by creating quality, branded products at a variety of price points, and tailoring that specific brand toward a specific consumer profile. Kendermann's Black Tower, Germany’s most widely exported brand, attracts a cult following among younger consumers. The wines sell for under $10, and according to Kendermann executives, the reason it sells so well include:

• Excellent wine quality
• Distinctive black bottle with a unique shape
• Innovative, integrated PR and marketing campaigns
• Extensive distribution network around the world

Tasting Black Tower side by side with the higher quality brands I noticed that the difference between them was indeed quite subtle. The Black Tower wines seemed younger, less nuanced, as well as bolder and more assertive than their more expensive siblings. According to winemaker Philipp Maurer, Kendermann strictly monitors their contract growers and visits often to ensure a quality harvest. Varietals include Rivaner (white), Riesling, Dornfelder (red), Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio, Rose, and Merlot. Of all the wines in the Black Tower family, I really enjoyed the Pinot Noir and Rose the most. The rose in particular was delicious, with a refreshing amount of tannin and rich, ripe fruit.

We tasted the premium quality brands as well, and here, it was very easy to taste the high mineral content of many of the soils used for production of premium wine, as well as the older age of the vines and care in viticulture and vinification. The Kendermann Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Beerenauslese 2005 was outstanding, and it was easy to see how it won the coveted Gold Medal at the San Francisco International Wine Competition in 2007. As is most quality Beerenauslese, it was made from the ripest grapes from Reh Kendermann’s own vineyards in the Mosel. Aromas include exotic yellow fruit and intense, dried raisins – quite lively despite the high sugar content.

Between Black Tower and the “icon” single vineyard Beerenauslese and TrockenBeerenauslese (even richer, sweeter, and botrytized) is the aspirational lifestyle brand Bend in the River along with other brands (traditional, classic, organic, and my personal favorite, Kendermann Terroir, which is differentiated from the other brands by its very pronounced aroma and taste of the intense mineral soil in which it was grown. Finally, a key factor that makes Kendermann's a role model for other large wineries is its “green” factor.

• Low reliance on fossil and other fuels
• All raw materials used in the winery are recycled or environmental friendly
• Labels are made of cellulose paper from sustainable forestry
• Most cartons are made of 100% recycled paper

The corporate name of Kendermann is "Reh-Kendermann", reflecting the name of its owners, Carl and Andrea Reh. The Rehs were not there during my visit but I was completely charmed by winemaker Philipp Maurer (his colleague Christine Pröstler was elsewhere). Young, wildly enthusiastic, engaging, and quite fluent in English, Phillipp’s passion for wine really shows. Next time I open a bottle I will think of his enthusiasm for all the Kendermann's brands with every sip.

Reh-Kendermann Weinkellerei
Contact: Volkmar Stöckmann
Am Ockenheimer Graben 35, 55411 Bingen
Phone: +49 (0) 6721-9010, Fax: +49 (0) 6721-901240
info@reh-kendermann.de, volkmar.stoeckmann@reh-kendermann.de

I’m not talking about a California Riesling or an Australian Riesling. I am referring to a Riesling from its native Germany. Here, in the cold climate with its glistening river, steep hills, and soils, you will find a true Riesling. If you are new to Riesling, you may think that all Rieslings are the same – especially if they are from a single country. If so, you will be amazed to discover that Riesling is one of the most versatile grapes in the world, and it takes its finest and most diverse expression in Germany

Towards that end, the German Wine Institute and Wines of Germany USA have created a campaign to bring Riesling wine to the world’s attention. The campaign, Destination Riesling, consists of full-page color advertisements in top wine and food magazine like Food & Wine, Riesling tasting events in major cities conducted by celebrities such as Aldo Sohm, whom the World Sommelier Association declared "Best Sommelier in the World" 2008, and trips for top international media to visit producers in Germany and spread the good word.

So on a chill September morning, myself and four media colleagues found ourselves in the warm tasting room of Weingut Strub. Now, in Germany, "weingut" is the word for winemaker. Another honorarium is "Docktor" which, to my understanding, is the term used for anyone who has been to university (though in our travels we met a few with actual doctorates). Winemaker Walter Strub is the latest in a long line of Strubs who have produced wine from red clay and other vineyards in Germany’s Rheinhessen region since 1710. Many Americans will be astonished to learn that he and his family actually live in that same exact ancestral house (with renovations, of course), though I am told living in ancient family estates is quite common in Germany.

Walter Strub assumed proprietorship of the estate in 1985, after receiving a degree in oenology from Germany’s famed viticultural institute in Geisenheim. He served apprenticeships in Baden and the Rheinhessen, and to get foreign experience spent three months in the Napa Valley . As is the case in many of the wineries I’ve seen in

Germany – and elsewhere - the entire Strub family is involved in the operation, including his charming wife Margit who treated everyone with a warm smile and a delicious spread of quiche, cheese, and other nibbles. Their three children Sebastian, Johannes, and Juliane are involved as well.

The Rheinhessen is the largest German wine growing region, historically justifiably famous for its excellent Riesling wine. That is, until the 1971 wine laws "equalized" vineyards so that the "Grand Cru" vineyards would legally have no more weight than flat, fertile land (this type of vineyard is bad for wine, as the vines need to struggle for nutrients to bear good fruit). As a result of this dark period, many Rheinhessen wineries stopped concentrating on quality and produced mass-market sweet wines such as Blue Nun and Liebfraumilch which gave German wine, temporarily, a bad name.

In the last several years, Riesling is experiencing a Renaissance in the Rheinhessen, with quality producers like Walter Strub, who produces wine in Nierstein, the most famous village in Rheinhessen with twenty-two individual sites. The oldest site, Niersteiner Glock, has been documented since 742.

Weingut Strub has 18 hectares (44 acres) of vineyard, with 10% steep slopes, 40% gentle slopes, and 50% flatlands. The soil types are sandstone, loess, and loam, along with the famous red clay. The grape varieties include 60% Riesling, 15% Silvaner, 20% Muller-Thurgau, and 5% other varieties such as Spatburgunder (what we call Pinot Noir) and Scheurebe. The cellars are ancient, vaulted, and built between 1600 and 1900. The best sites include Rehbach, Pettenthal, Auflangen, Orbel, Olberg, Spielgelberg, Paterberg, Brickchen, Findling, and Rosenberg.

Average annual production is 100,000 litres, with 30% dry (trocken), 30% off-dry (also called halbtrocken), and 40% a new classification called "classical." 30% of the wines are exported, mostly to the UK and USA. According to Strub, the best-selling wines is Niersteiner Bruckchen Riesling Kabinett, with 10% alcohol, and 48.0 grams of residual sugar. While this seems like a lot of sugar, the wine has such racy acidity and is so crisp it simply tastes refreshing.

Strub is a Terry Theise Estate Selection for USA importer Michael Skurnik Wines (516-677-9300). Contact Kevin Pike (kbpike@skurnikwines.com). Visits are by appointment. Please see information below.

Oh, and here is a Flickr link for pics!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mdvari/

Weingut Strub
Contact: Margit Strub, Walter Strub
Rheinstr. 42, 55283 Nierstein
P.O.Box 1207, 55280 Niersten
Phone: +49 (0) 6133-5649, Fax: +49 (0) 6133-5501
info@strub-nierstein.de

Strub Vineyards

www.strub-nierstein.de

For additional information:

* German Wine Institute www.deutscheweine.de

* Wines of Germany www.germanwineusa.com

Let's imagine that it is New Year's Eve, and you want to find the perfect wine to pair with a first course of fresh briny oysters. Or maybe you are vacationing in a chic French island like St. Barts, and just bought a freshly-caught snapper from a sleek, tanned fisherman in Prada swim trunks who had moments before cast his net into the emerald sea. What would be the idea wine to accompany the dish?

Perhaps your first thought is Chardonnay or a Sauvignon Blanc - both very appropriate pairings. Yet have you considered Muscadet Sevre-et-Maine? The Muscadet grape (also known as Melon de Bourgogne) comes from a region of France in the Loire Valley, at the mouth of the Atlantic Ocean. The most popular style of Muscadet from this region is Muscadet Sur Lie, which means the wine is "aged" on its lees which gives the wine its yeasty, biscuit-like aroma and fuller body.

Muscadet Sevre-et-Maine is not typically stocked on supermarket shelves, where mainstream-centered supermarket buyers rely on oaked California Chardonnays with their popular aromas of spiced apple pie, or New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs with their refreshing, signature aromatic citrus and mineral notes. In contrast to those two popular varietals, Muscadet Sevre-et-Maine is difficult to pronounce and may take more than a few sips to understand and appreciate.

Yet once a novice Muscadet taster gets past the unfamiliarity of the flavor profile, pleasure awaits. Typically a Muscadet nose is neither pungent or shy, with an aroma that hints at sea breeze and citrus. On the palate, one will usually find a substantial medium body with racy acidity and depending on the winery and vintage, a good concentration of fruit with tart citrus notes.

Of course, white-fleshed fish and seafood is a natural pairing. Yet also consider Muscadet for upscale treats such as caviar, sushi, and sashimi, or serve this crisp, refreshing wine as an aperitif or a light wine to accompany luncheon fare or omelets for a Sunday brunch. Appropriate cheese pairings include goat cheese, both soft and creamy or hard and aged, depending on the flavor profile of the particular wine.

Right now I'm sipping 2007 Domaine de la Batardière Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie, a textbook Muscadet Sevre et Main with an aroma of zesty ocean spray, lemon pith, and wet sand, which echoes on the palate. You will find a substantial body and excellent balance between fruit and acidity, with lots of mineral notes from the rich soil. I would pair this particular wine with a hard goat cheese, perhaps with crackers liberally sprinkled with a great deal of black pepper. Or maybe I'd serve the wine with caviar. This particular wine is just under ten dollars, so you will have extra money to splurge.