I just received photos from CoutureFashionWeek 2010, which took place in February, in New York City, at the same time as Fashion Week New York. Couture Fashion Week presents high end, handcrafted clothing (lots of gowns) and accessories from artists around the globe and has been doing so since 2003. Couture Fashion Week doesn't get the press or blog coverage that Fashion Week does. It could be that the designers showing here don't work for the big fashion labels, so they don't garner the same attention.

In support of handmade fashion, here are a few up-and-coming designers whose work inspired me.

 

Photo courtesy of CoutureFashionWeek.com. 
 
This gorgeous coat (above) was made by Janina Stankiene, a native of Lithuania, who began knitting at an early age. Stankiene specializes in wool and fur and even redesigns vintage fur coats for her clients under her Janerations label.

 

 

Photo courtesy of CoutureFashionWeek.com. 

Morgan Sarver specializes in one-of-a-kind gowns (above), made to her customers' specifications. Sarver began designing gowns in 2001, after studying in Europe for nearly a decade.

 

Photo courtesy of CoutureFashionWeek.com. 

Paulina Lopez, from Mexico City, presented her "Celebration" collection (above) to reflect her belief that every day can be a celebration. She creates lovely, custom made, "haute" dresses and gowns. I just love the gown's big, bold rosettes and stunning shade of blue.

How do you like this kind of fashion?

Can you tell what colorful materials Illinois-based metalsmith Tamara Gentry uses for the center of these pieces? Try fordite, also known as Detroit agate. Fordite is made of old automobile paint which has hardened enough to be cut and polished. These pieces are from Gentry's fordite collection, which pairs fordite with gemstones and sterling silver. The television (left) can be worn as a pendant or brooch. It's capped with yellow and blue sapphires. The gorgeous wide square cuff bracelet below is made with fordite, gold and silver. I love the look of the fordite patterns combined with the silver. Gentry's next collection will feature stones as the centerpieces of the work. You can see more at Tamara Gentry Design Studio.

I found jewelry maker Margherita de Martino Norante on the Behance Network of artists and was smitten with her work. The necklace (below), from the "Some are Real, Some are Masks" collection, is my favorite. The idea of creating a necklace with delicate doll's feet poking out from beneath a blue ballerina skirt capped with a fish head top is so unusual, even for art jewelry. I was compelled to find out more about the artist who created such an interesting necklace.

 
'be careful clementine' necklace made out of silver, fabric, and pearls

Here is the short interview I did with Margherita about her work. I think you'll see that she is a free spirit who has taken an unconventional approach to jewelry making - qualities that I find especially appealing.

In your commentary about the works on your Behance site, you talk about hiding, disguising yourself. Would you please tell me why you chose this theme?

I started from the assumption that everyone, to a different extent and for different reasons, tends to lie and hide beyond masks. The mask itself, however, reveals something about the wearer. I think this hiding/revealing game is somehow present in the relation between the jewel and its wearer, and I like playing with it.

I notice that you combine precious metals like silver and gold with unlikely materials that have a low 'perceived' value. Why is that?

I choose materials depending on the idea beyond the piece: technical, aesthetic, conceptual. My ideas determine the materials I need for my work.

 
'WAIT #3' necklace made out of copper wire, shibuichi (a copper-silver alloy which can be patinated into a range of muted colors), and pink gold

Would you please tell me how you got started in jewelry and textile design and metalsmithing?

I took an undergraduate degree in Product Design, but at the end of it, I decided to major in something different. I wanted to work with my hands and I realized that I had no interest in the market-oriented jobs where my degree would lead. So, I took a three year program in Contemporary Jewelery at Alchimia school, where I could learn metal-smithing techniques, experiment a lot, and start to develop my own approach to jewelry.

I notice that you are from Florence, Italy. Has this always been your home? What kind of impact, if any, has living in such a beautiful place had on your art?

I was born in Florence and I've always been living there. This makes it a little bit difficult for me to say how much Florence has influenced my work. I don't know what living elsewhere is like! Of course, everyday I have the opportunity to see great pieces of art from the past, and this is stimulating. On the other hand, Florence is a small and coy town, where the mainstream definition of art is still Vasari. Contemporary art is given little consideration here.

 
'KEEP QUIET' brooches made out of silver

This is fascinating jewelry that doesn't fit tradtional definitions of beauty. Each piece tells a story, forcing the admirer to figure it out. I find myself drawn to this kind of conceptual work. What do you think? You can see more at Margherita de Martino Norante.