You can see the official P&O news release here.

The only UK-Spain ferry route that will remain in operation from this date is the Brittany Ferries service to Santander, which runs from both Portsmouth and Plymouth and is much faster than the P&O service – around 24 hours, rather than the 36 hours or so required by P&O’s ageing ships.

Santander is pretty close to Bilbao and for the purposes of travelling in Spain, it doesn’t make much difference which port you arrive in.

Eilean Donan Castle:

Driving through Glen Shiel:

Glen Finnan Viaduct – better known as the one from Harry Potter, together with the Jacobite Express steam train:

The Jacobite Express steaming across Glen Finnan Viaduct

Driving through Glen Coe - surprisingly good

The Falkirk Wheel – a kind of giant ferris wheel that carries boats between the Forth & Clyde Canal and the Union Canal, replacing a series of locks:

The Falkirk Wheel: Boats go into the lower section, the whole wheel rotates and they motor out the top

Edinburgh - we saw the Queen but security around her visit meant that we couldn’t see some other parts of the old town or Holyrood Palace:

… and thus ended another trip. From Edinburgh, we travelled home, back to normality for a while.

1. It was hillier and more scenic than I expected.
2. The number of foreign tourists in rented cars and motorhomes was surprisingly high.
3. The condition of many of the roads was the worst I have ever driven on, anywhere in Western Europe.
4. Despite it being peak tourist season (mid-July), most businesses were still closed on Sundays. In the main town, Portree, almost everything was closed. This was despite the large numbers of visitors who were milling around the town, looking in shop windows and trying locked cafe doors (really). These people were  just itching to be allowed to spend some money. The one cafe that was open was packed. Surely the residents of Skye aren’t all such devout Christians that no one can be found to open up on a Sunday and make some money?

That aside, here are a few memorable highlights of our exploration of the island.

Fairy Glen

Like something from a children’s book, Fairy Glen is made up of miniature pointed hills, rocky outcrops and even a tiny lake. Access is by a narrow winding single-track road and isn’t recommended for larger motorhomes but if you aren’t too large, then definitely take a look:

The pictures don't convey the real novelity of the landscape of Fairy Glen

Coral Beaches

Continue driving down the minor road beyond Dunvegan Castle and you will (eventually) come to the parking area for the Coral Beaches. From the car park it’s about a mile’s walk to two beaches made up entirely of dead coral – or “bleached exo-skeletons of coralline algae known as maerl”, as Lonely Planet describes it.

The beaches are a strange anomaly – all the others nearby are bog-standard shingle – and really are made up of dead coral, not sand or stone:

Coral beaches - yet on either side, the beaches are just shingle

Although it looks like sand from a distance, it really is all coral

Well worth a trip – although access and parking isn’t ideal for larger motorhomes.

Visiting The Outer Hebrides – Or Not!

The next stage of our trip was going to be a series of ferries to the Outer Hebrides, starting from the Skye port of Uig.

Up until this point, our strategy of not booking a single ferry in advance had worked well for us. However, on Skye, our luck ran out! A combination of one broken-down ferry, cancellations due to gales the previous week and the mid-July tourist season meant that we would have had to wait four days for the next ferry. This was time we didn’t have, so we abandoned the Outer Hebrides and will return to visit them at some point in the future.

We stopped in Thurso to buy fuel and visit Tesco – apart from this, there isn’t much reason to stop here but it does have the cheapest fuel in the area and the only substantial supermarkets. Having recently paid 131.9p/litre for diesel in Shetland, it was nice to pay less than 120p/litre again (July 2010), although I didn’t begrudge the cost in Shetland – it’s obvious why it costs more.

A Brief Detour Inland

I felt that we might be missing something by sticking only to the coast road across the north of Scotland (the only main road in the region), I persuaded my wife to take a detour inland into the Sutherland hills. We left the A836 coast road just after Bettyhill and turned took the B871/B873/A836 to make a loop back up to the coast at Tongue. To say the inland areas were rural and remote doesn’t begin to do justice to them, although the dismal weather didn’t help either:

The north coast is attractive enough but turned out to be just a taster for what was to come once we turned the corner onto the west coast. However, before we go that far we managed a stop at Smoo Cave, which boasts underground waterfalls and is worth a few minutes of your time if you are passing. High water levels in the cave meant that the guided (boat) tours were cancelled that day, but on the plus side, admission by foot was free, enabling us to see most of the cave for nothing.

The entrance to Smoo Cave (in the rain)

Inside the cave is a waterfall - it's possible to explore further, but only by boat with an expert guide

Heading west, the main road (A838) cuts off the north-west corner of Scotland – there are no roads to Cape Wrath – and from Durness heads south west towards the west of Scotland proper and perhaps the most amazing scenery I’ve seen anywhere in the UK:

This area is still extremely remote – there simply aren’t any towns, villages or even houses in most areas – but the scenery is amazing and there is no shortage of areas where you can pull off the road to admire the view or indeed spend the night. Highly recommended, although unlike the north east and the northern isles, this area and all points south are much more popular with tourists than you might imagine.

This continues (with slightly lessening intensity) all the way down to Ullapool, a picturesque but busy place that reminded me of Windermere. The reason for Ullapool’s popularity becomes obvious when you realise it is within comfortable weekending distance of Glasgow and Edinburgh – and hence the majority of Scotland’s population.

The Bealach na Ba Pass

One other highlight of this area is the Bealach na Ba pass, which is probably the closest you will get to an alpine pass in the UK. Tight hairpins, a gradient of up to 20%, and single track most of the way makes it a memorable drive – even without the amazing views. It rises to 626m at the top of the pass (a good place for a lunch break) and is by far the most fun way to get to the village of Applecross on the coast, although drivers of larger motorhomes might prefer to take the alternative coastal (and flat) route.

The view on the way up the eastern side of the Bealach na Ba pass

To get to the Bealach na Ba pass, take the A896 and turn off at Tornapress. The road is well signposted with various warnings, suggesting that learner drivers, caravan towers and large vehicles should avoid it. It certainly is not a suitable route for caravans or American RVs. In winter conditions it tends to be closed.

Spot the tree...

Historically, this meant that the islanders had to find something else to burn to keep them warm in winter – something that was in plentiful supply locally. The answer, surprisingly, is peat, which was (and is) cut out of the ground in blocks, dried and then burned. Apparently, peat burns quite slowly and is surprisingly suitable for use as a solid fuel. Driving around the islands, you can still see evidence of peat cutting and drying today:

The peat is cut in blocks and then left to dry out for a few days

Fishing In Shetland

Another historical industry that seems to be surviving is fishing. Shetland is home to some of the biggest fishing boats I’ve ever seen. Although there aren’t many of these, they look pretty expensive – presumably there is still some money to be made from deep-sea fishing, despite the best efforts of the EU…

We found this ship tucked away in a tiny harbour on the coast of Shetland but saw an identical (sister?) ship arrive in Lerwick harbour on the day we left.

Lerwick – Internet Access & Shopping

Before leaving Shetland, we visited Lerwick, capital of the Shetlands. If you need public internet access in Shetland, Lerwick is one of the few places you will find it. Lerwick library offers free wireless internet access if you have your own laptop. There are also computers you can use if you don’t have your own. This is a boon even if you have a mobile broadband dongle, as we found that 3G coverage was non-existent throughout most of the highlands and islands of Scotland (on 3).

(Incidentally, when assessing UK mobile operators’ claims of coverage, remember that they are normally based on the percentage of the UK population that’s covered, not the proportion of the UK land mass. The highlands and islands of Scotland don’t have much in the way of population…)

Internet facilities aside, one of the most interesting things about Lerwick is that it allows younger people to have the novel experience of walking down a high street with no chain stores. Every shop (except Boots) is independent and uniquely named. It’s completely unlike most town centres throughout the UK and hopefully will remain so.

For a few more (independent) shops, head to the Toll Clock Shopping Centre, which is on the way out of Lerwick towards the ferry port. It is bright red and although it may seem a little dated to habitués of modern-day urban horrors like Meadowhall, it does have some useful shops for people who actually live in Shetland.

We left Shetland the way we arrived – on the Lerwick-Kirkwall Northlink Ferries service. It departs Lerwick around 1730 and arrives Kirkwall at about 2300.

Although the UK is a very long way from having the extensive network of motorhome overnight facilities that are available in countries like Germany (stellplatz) and France (aires), I’m happy to say that the light does seem to be slowly dawning in the UK.

On a recent visit to Pickering, in North Yorkshire, I noticed that Pickering Antique Centre, which is in the town centre, now offers overnight parking for up to 5 motorhomes in its car park, which is large, surfaced and flat. In addition to this, fresh water and chemical waste disposal are advertised as being available. It costs £10 a night. This might seem expensive by continental standards, but it’s cheap compared to most UK campsites and it is, after all, a private facility that has to pay its way.

Pickering Antique Centre is also right in the centre of one of the most popular towns in the area, right on the edge of the North York Moors National Park and within five minute’s walk of the North York Moors Railway.

Well done Pickering Antique Centre.

For more details or to book, telephone 01751 477210 in shop hours. If you arrive out of office hours, call or text 07899 872309/07792 918836 to book in (be reasonable if it’s the middle of the night).

One of the small ro-ro ferries that connect the islands

Arriving in Yell is a surprise at first – while Shetland seems fairly empty, Yell takes this emptiness to a new level. There really isn’t very much there – it’s both beautiful and desolate.

There's not much traffic on Yell or Unst

Our plan was to head up the western side of Yell on our northbound journey and then come back down the eastern route on the way back, after visiting the northernmost inhabited island in the British isles, Unst. We didn’t spot any good overnight places on the northbound trip through Yell so decided to carry to Unst. This involves another ferry trip but it’s free and only takes 10 minutes – so there isn’t much hassle involved.

Unst & Britain’s Most Northerly Hostel

We drove up into Unst and eventually came across Gardiesfauld Youth Hostel, in Uyeasound, which is not only Britain’s most northerly youth hostel but also boasts motorhome/caravan parking facilities directly facing the sea. This did cost £12 but access to the hostel’s facilities were included and it seemed a good idea, especially as we needed to do some washing and the hostel had a laundry (£1 each for washer and dryer).

The motorhome (or caravan) parking spaces at the Gardiesfauld Hostel in Uyeasound

Don’t travel to Unst expecting any cosmopolitan pleasures – restaurants, pubs and shops are virtually non-existent (as elsewhere in Shetland) and you need to have your own supplies. Here’s a quote from the youth hostel’s brochure:

There is no shop in Uyeasound, the nearest shop is 7 miles away. We strongly recommend that you bring basic food items with you.

The quality of the scenery and location is unbeatable – and I’d recommend the site (although at the time of visiting they didn’t have chemical toilet or waste water disposal points, which was a bit annoying, although you could use the toilets inside the hostel, I suppose. Fresh water taps and electric hookups are behind each pitch. Just park up and then walk up to the hostel to find out (from the noticeboard in the entrance) when the warden’s next visit is to collect payment.

As befits Britain’s northernmost inhabited island, there are a few ‘most northerly’ places you will see on your travels around Unst:

Britain's most northerly post office at Baltasound, Unst...

Britain's most northerly church (recently rebuilt)

The oddest bus shelter I've ever seen - but where else would it remain free of vandalism and theft?

Britain's most northerly MoD housing estate (there was a radar station in the north of Unst until a few years ago)

Of course, there are unspoilt sandy beaches and great scenery, too...

Motorhome Parking On Yell

One of the highlights of Yell was discovering the parking in the harbour at Burravoe – a purpose built caravan/motorhome site is under construction, but at present it’s free to use and provides electricity (coin metered) and fresh water. Parking is right by the harbour/marina area of this small village and there’s also a walk to see the nearby Ladies Hol and the Horse of Burravoe – an unusual rock formation.

The main attraction for visitors to Burravoe is The Old Haa, Yell’s oldest building. It’s a local museum and craft shop and sells local arts and crafts. Sadly it was closed on the day we were there (Monday).

Park your motorhome (or caravan) here for free - water and electricity provided

It's worth remembering that in Orkney and Shetland, caravans can park freely just like motorhomes - unlike most of mainland Scotland, where caravans are often prohibited.

Both Yell and Unst are scattered with attractions and pleasant walks, and although some of the attractions are fairly minor, the scenery is resolutely excellent wherever you go.

Driving on these islands is a pleasure, too – the roads are excellent, although often single track, and other drivers are remarkably few and friendly, pulling into passing places with extreme consideration when necessary. In fact, it’s sometimes hard to do your fair share of giving way – the other driver always does it first!

Main of the shops in Scalloway had closed for the day (Saturday) as it was the town's summer gala

You can explore Scalloway Castle for free - just pop up the road to get the key from the hotel and then take it back when you're finished!

Scalloway still has a busy harbour

What’s The Shetland Bus?

When Norway was occupied by the Germans in World War II, Shetland became the nearest place from which allied forces could operate. The burgeoning Norwegian resistance movement didn’t lack spirit but did need supplies and coordination. A sea route was established from Shetland to the Norwegian coast that allowed both people and supplies to be moved between the two countries whilst evading German capture. This became known as the Shetland Bus (find out more here and here or read the excellent book on the subject, The Shetland Bus).

The service was run primarily by the Royal Navy, but the ships used initially were Norwegian fishing boats, which were crewed by genuine Norwegian fishermen – the only people with both the seamanship and the cultural and linguistic knowledge required to complete these difficult missions and move around freely onshore in Norway.

For much of the war, Shetland Bus operations were based out of Scalloway and today a memorial exists to remember the 44 men who lost their lives while serving with the unit. I’d recently re-read The Shetland Bus by David Howarth, who was the naval officer in charge of the operational side of the Shetland Bus. Seeing the names of people he wrote about on the various plaques and memorials really brought the history to life – as did seeing the slipway that had been used to haul the fishing boats out of the water for vital maintenance between missions.

This very slipway in Scalloway was assembled and used by the Shetland Bus team to maintain their fishing boats

If you’ve only ever travelled around the UK by motorhome, this may come as something of a revelation!

To provide an introduction to these facilities, I’ve gathered together some of the photos I’ve taken on my travels and put them into an article, along with some useful tips for using motorhome service areas.

Click here for my guide to Motorhome Service Areas in Europe

Purpose-made service points like this Euro Relais design are common in France and, increasingly, in Spain and Portugal. They're easy to use but may charge for water and electricity (if provided).

The Shetland Islands are home to about 20% of Scotland’s puffin population and 2,000 pairs of these breed at Sumburgh Head. These were out in force on the day we got there and the weather steadily improved, too – we ended up spending the whole morning at Sumburgh Head. (For lots of information about wildlife-spotting in Shetland, visit www.nature-shetland.co.uk)

Sumburgh Head - first we saw one puffin...

...and then we couldn't get away from them!

The sun came out!

Our next destination was just up the road but was so perfect that we spent the rest of the day and the night there, too. St Ninian’s Isle is a small island that’s joined to the mainland by Britain’s largest shell-and-sand tombolo (a narrow isthmus).

The island is picture perfect, especially on a sunny summer’s day, and there is parking above the beach opposite, providing a perfect overnight spot with walks on the beach and across to the island, for those who are so inclined. If you walk back up from the beach, there is a shop-cum-post office in Bigton selling all sorts of things (from frozen fish fingers to fresh bread and cakes) – although it was for sale at the time we visited, so it may not be there next time.

St Ninian’s Isle isn’t inhabited anymore and is only used for sheep farming today. It does, however, boast the remains of a 12th century church that can be viewed freely at any time.