Chicago’s a funny city. One of the largest cities in the country, it is also one of the hardest drinking party towns in the Midwest. Gangsters and Speakeasies played a big part during prohibition, but after prohibition, like elsewhere, there was a bit of a lull in cocktail culture.

Even after new classic cocktail bars started opening in New York, San Francisco, and Seattle, the Midwest has lagged behind, caught in the culture of bigger is better.

Chicago, though, seemed like it could do better. A fabulous culinary destination, arguably one of the best in the whole of the United States.  How long until a bar in Chicago took cocktails as seriously as restaurants like Alinea, avec, or blackbird?

With thoughts along those lines, Toby Maloney and his partners opened The Violet Hour in late June of 2007.

Toby,

I’ll be in Chicago for a dinner at Alinea on Thurs.  We’re staying
through the weekend to relax.

Hoping to stop by The Violet Hour (finally!)

Do you still have anything to do with that venue?

I do need to photograph at least this week’s 5 Savoy Cocktails (Star
through Stinger) somewhere in Chicago.

Seemed like The Violet Hour might be a fun place to do it.

Think anyone there would be interested?

Best,

Erik E.

Hey Erik,

I am happy to say I am an owner of The Violet Hour so I will always have my fingers in it. It would be my pleasure to get you a rezo at TVH anytime you want. Many people find a cocktail after Alinea is the perfect thing to decompress and settle the stomach. YAY Cynar.

I am checking with one of my people to see when they can make time for your photo shoot. Do you want the place to be open?

As soon as I hear back I will shoot you an other email.

Cheers,
Toby

Hey Toby,

Alinea is on Pernod-Ricard’s dime and there are quite a few bartenders
in tow, so perhaps we’ll make it over afterwards. I’ll suggest it,
unless they have already been in contact. Those Amaro based cocktails
were looking pretty darn appealing to me, and it is only 11:00AM here.

Usually before open or during a bit of a slow time is best for
photography. If such a thing exists at TVH. Is Saturday jammed from
open? I hate to get in the way of opening chores. Sunday at 5 or 6?
Whatever works.

Would be nice to do a bit of an interview and such, if they don’t
mind, and get some pictures of the atmosphere. Always curious about
the cocktail scene in other locales.

Erik E.

Toby,

Simon Ford appears somewhat taken with the idea of visiting TVH for a
post-prandial nightcap.

Our Alinea reservation is on Thurs at 7, I guess that means some time
around 11 or 12?

I will text closer to the time, if the idea gains traction.

Erik E.

I might need a little more notice than hours. Lynette is in I know, You, your wife and Simon make enough for me to make you a rezo in the back room. Any new info should be txted to me to insure prompt action to this fluid situation.

Cheers,
Toby

Well, nothing like rolling in with a bunch of high profile bartenders who have already been drinking, to put a place on edge. I know I always get nervous. Will they break anything? What will my hangover be like tomorrow morning?

Fortunately, we did not break anything, and all went well. Delicious post-prandial libations, perfect to sate our stuffed stomachs.

The next night Mrs. Flannestad and I traveled back to The Violet Hour in Wicker Park, this time to try a few Savoy Cocktails. Unfortunately, among the next 12, or so, cocktails, there wasn’t a lot of greatness. Michael Rubel did his best to maintain his cool and make the cocktails work. But some were just not that great.

Star Cocktail (No. 1)
1 Teaspoonful Grape Fruit Juice.
1 Dash Italian Vermouth.
1 Dash French Vermouth.
1/2 Calvados or Apple Brandy.
1/2 Dry Gin.
Shake well and strain into cocktail glass.
Harry McElhone notes this was, “A very popular cocktail at the Plaza, New York.”

Tastes, I guess, change. We first tried it with Carpano Antica, Noilly Prat Dry, Busnel V.S.O.P. Calvados, and Anchor Junipero Gin. Pretty close to undrinkable. Michael, not being one to admit defeat, had to mix it again, this time massaging the amounts a bit and using Bombay Gin instead of the Junipero. As he said, “it isn’t going to rock your world,” but it was at least drinkable.

Messing around later, I found a version made with 1 teaspoon M&R Bianco, 1 teaspoon Carpano Antica, 1 teaspoon Grapefruit, 1 oz Laird’s Apple Brandy, and 1 oz Krogstad Aquavit to be actually enjoyable. Your mileage may vary, but, made literally, this classic cocktail is definitely one of questionable merit.

Star Cocktail (No. 2)
1/2 Italian Vermouth.
1/2 Applejack or Calvados.
(dash House “Aromatic Elixir”)
Shake well and strain into cocktail glass.

Michael went with 1/2 Carpano Antica, 1/2 Laird’s Bottled in Bond, and, after a brief query, “I’d put bitters in this, wouldn’t you?” he suggested we add Violet Hour House Aromatic Elixir to the cocktail. Maybe it was the previous Star Cocktails, but what a relief to be drinking an Apple Brandy Manhattan! Whew!

Stomach Reviver Cocktail
5 Dashes Angostura Bitters.
1/6 Fernet Branca.
2/3 Brandy.
2/3 Kummel.
Shake well and strain into cocktail glass.

This cocktail just seemed so appropriate for a bar which has a section of its cocktail menu based on Amaros! Plus, it’s just odd to find a bar with Kummel on the back bar! We used Maison Surrene Petit Champagne Cognac, Kaiser Kummel, Fernet and around an eighth of an ounce of Angostura!

And nice it was, a fine example of extreme Fernet Mixology. About our only criticism would be, it was almost nicer before it was chilled and diluted. Maybe I’m just used to drinking Fernet at room temp, but the flavors seemed a bit muted after the cocktail was cold.

Stinger Cocktail
1/4 White Crème de Menthe.
3/4 Brandy.
Shake well and strain into cocktail glass.

I wasn’t sure if I wanted to drink a Stinger, but as we were talking, Michael had a funny story. He mentioned that it was one of Dale DeGroff’s favorite cocktails, and when he was working in New York, he got an order from the great man. For some reason, which I fail to exactly recall, he decided to make it, instead of with Cognac, but with a (very nice) Spanish Brandy.

The next Saturday night Michael was working, in the height of the evening’s rush, Mr. DeGroff came back to talk to him, and explain in no uncertain terms, without concern for how busy Mr. Rubel was, precisely why it was wrong to use Spanish Brandy and exactly the way he preferred his Stingers, thank you very much.

Well, after that story, how could I not finish the evening with a Stinger prepared by Mr. Rubel?

This evening we made the stinger with Brizard White Creme de Menthe and Maison Surenne Petit Champagne Cognac.  You can’t say Michael did not learn his lesson. We did serve it up, per the Savoy Cocktail Book, and I believe Mr. DeGroff prefers his over cracked ice. FYI, just in case you get an order for one from him one busy Saturday night.

I can’t say I entirely see the appeal of the Stinger, I did think it could use a bit less Creme de Menthe. I also believe I agree with Mr. DeGroff and prefer it over cracked ice.

This is the violet hour, the hour of hush and wonder, when the affections glow again and valor is reborn, when the shadows deepen magically along the edge of the forest and we believe that, if we watch carefully, at any moment we may see the unicorn.
- Bernard DeVoto “The Hour”

I have to thank Toby and especially Michael and Maura of The Violet Hour staff for making me welcome and putting up with a couple pretty awful Savoy Cocktails. The most inspiring thing, as a bartender and customer, that I took away from our evenings at The Violet Hour, was that the staff were great hosts. I loved watching the truly professional way they interacted with each other, the customers, and kept their bar top in order. Amazing. Although I didn’t see the unicorn this time, I certainly hope it won’t be another 3 years before I get a chance to return and look for it again!

This post is one in a series documenting my ongoing effort to make all of the cocktails in the Savoy Cocktail Book, starting at the first, Abbey, and ending at the last, Zed.

© erik for Underhill-Lounge, 2010. | Permalink | 3 comments | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags: Angostura Bitters, AppleJack, Aquavit, bars, Bartenders, Bianco Vermouth, Brandy, Calvados, Cocktails, Cognac, Creme de Menthe, Dry Gin, Fernet Branca, French Vermouth, Italian Vermouth, Kummel

Feed enhanced by Better Feed from Ozh

Swizzles Cocktail
The Juice of 1 Lime. (Juice 1 lime)
1 Dash Angostura Bitters.
1 Glass of Gin. (2 oz Tanqueray Gin)
1 Teaspoonful of Sugar. (1 tsp Caster Sugar)
Stir with swizzle stick until it foams.

Well, that certainly is interesting!

I had thought the Swizzle was primarily the domain of Rum drinks like the Queen’s Park Swizzle, but here we have a Swizzled Rickey.

Sadly I am lacking in proper swizzle sticks, so I shall have to do this my own way…

Fill glass with ice. Pour ice from glass into blender or food processor and top up with a few more cubes. Add all ingredients except angostura bitters, and pulse until well frappeed. Pour into glass and top with dashes of Angostura Bitters. You may want to do some additional swizzling.

Oh my god! I thought blenders were the domain of rum and tequila drinks! Surely no man would contemplate a blender version of a gin rickey!

I can. I have. And it is good. Refreshing even! I dare you to try it!

Dear lord, what is next, slushy machines full of Corpse Revivers?

No, I don’t think so, but now that you mention it, this would make quite a tasty sorbet. “Hello, is this the Humphry Slocombe flavor suggestion line?”

This post is one in a series documenting my ongoing effort to make all of the cocktails in the Savoy Cocktail Book, starting at the first, Abbey, and ending at the last, Zed.

© erik for Underhill-Lounge, 2010. | Permalink | No comment | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags: Cocktails, Gin, Lime Juice, Sugar

Feed enhanced by Better Feed from Ozh

Boy, I haven’t posted a Bachelor dinner for a while!

But all the recent bachelor dinners have been Jambalaya. There’s only so many times I can post that recipe.

Recently we were visiting family in Wisconsin, and I was called upon to make Guacamole.

When I was doing that, I was reminded I haven’t made any Mexican dishes for ages.

Horror!

So for this Bachelor Dinner, I decided to dig waaaaay back into my past, and make chicken in a tomatillo sauce.  And by way back, we’re talking nearly prehistoric, late-1980s, when I first discovered Diana Kennedy’s “Art of Mexican Cooking”.  I probably made this as a dinner special when I was working as a manager at Pasqual’s in Madison, Wisconsin.

This dish, with its sweet-sour, spicy sauce, when served with corn tortillas and garnished with feta cheese and cilantro is truly one of my favorite flavor combinations. Hard to beat, and the leftovers, (should there be any,) make great enchiladas.

Chicken in a Tomatillo Sauce with Chipotle Peppers

Ingredients:
8 Pieces Chicken Leg and/or Thighs (you could also use chicken breasts, but why would you?)
2 TBSP Olive (or other) oil
1 Pound Tomatillos, husks removed and rinsed
1 can Chipotle en Adobo
3 Cloves Garlic
1/2 White Onion, halved
2 TBSP Pepitas (hulled Pumpkin seeds) toasted and ground
Chicken Stock (maybe)
Honey or Sugar (maybe)
Salt
Cilantro, Picked and Chopped
Feta Cheese (or queso blanco)
Corn Tortillas

Method:
You can go two ways with the Tomatillos. Either poach them or roast them. If you are a traditionalist, a la Diana Kennedy, you will probably poach them. If you are a modern cook, a la Rick Bayless, you will probably roast them. Either way, you want them to be poached or roasted until they feel like little water balloons. They will probably not all reach this state at the same time, so remove them carefully from the water or oven as they cook, and add them to a blender or food processor. If you let them go too long, they will split.  Not horrible, but you’re either losing flavor into your poaching liquid or messing up your roasting pan.  No disrespect to Ms. Kennedy, I roasted them in a pre-heated cast iron pan.

If you are roasting, also include your garlic and onion in the pan. Turn as you do the tomatillos, and remove last after all the tomatillos are cooked through. Add the onion to the blender. Peel the garlic and add it to the blender. Open the can of Chiles en Adobo and grab 3-6, depending on your preference for Spiciness. Chop them roughly and add them to the blender. Add the Ground Pumpkin seeds. Pulse until well pureed. You may need to add chicken stock, if it is particularly dry (unlikely).

While the vegetables are cooking start another straight sided saute pan over medium heat. When it is hot, add the oil. Brown the Chicken on all sides and remove from the pan. Turn off the heat, but leave the oil in the pan. (It should be noted, that in traditional Mexican cooking, with its lack of oil and appropriate cookware, you would not brown the chicken.)

If your saute pan has cooled, turn the heat back on and pour the tomatillo sauce into the pan. Heat briefly and check the seasonings. If it is too tart, add some sweetener. You will need to add a fair bit of salt, as the sauce up to this point is only vegetables. Add chicken to sauce, cover, and cook at a low heat until done, turning the chicken from time to time.

When chicken is done, remove from sauce and place in warmed serving bowl. Turn the heat on the sauce up to high and reduce until the liquid level is similar to apple juice. Pour over Chicken. Garnish with Cilantro and crumbled Feta Cheese. Serve with Corn Tortillas and a side dish.

Serves 4 with a side dish.

© erik for Underhill-Lounge, 2010. | Permalink | No comment | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags: Bachelor Dinner, Chicken, Chipotle Chiles, Food, Tomatillos, Tortillas

Feed enhanced by Better Feed from Ozh

Sweet Patootie Cocktail
1/4 Orange Juice. (1/2 oz Orange Juice)
1/4 Cointreau. (1/2 oz Cointreau)
1/2 Dry Gin. (1 oz Ransom Old Tom)
(1 dash Angostura Orange Bitters)
Shake well and strain into cocktail glass.

Hm, how did that Angostura Bitters get in there? Weird. Sometimes I go through my notes about the cocktails and kind of wonder what I was thinking! Well, I do prefer an Income Tax to a Brooklyn, (Err, I mean Bronx!, thanks Matt,) and oranges were undoubtedly smaller and probably more bitter before modern super market breeding took over. Even possible vintage Cointreau was a bit different in character.

In regards Ransom, well, I am curious about using it in different contexts, and, well, I find most dry gin cocktails which call for orange juice a bit boring on their own.

However, aside from a goofy name, this slightly more elaborate relative of the Orange Blossom doesn’t have a whole lot to recommend it.  Maybe if you were to use a bitter or esoteric variety of orange.  Tangerine?  With Navels or Valencias, there just isn’t a whole lot here.  The Ransom Old Tom ups the interest factor a bit, and is fairly tasty, but not quite enough to make this a slam dunk.

Very single notedly Orange.

This post is one in a series documenting my ongoing effort to make all of the cocktails in the Savoy Cocktail Book, starting at the first, Abbey, and ending at the last, Zed.

© erik for Underhill-Lounge, 2010. | Permalink | 3 comments | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags: Cocktails, Cointreau, Dry Gin, Orange Juice

Feed enhanced by Better Feed from Ozh

Swazi Freeze Cocktail
1 Dash Peach Brandy. (5ml/1tsp Massenez Creme de Peche de la Vigne)
1/3 Canadian Club Whisky. (3/4 oz 40 Creek 3 Grain)
2/3 Caperitif (5ml/1tsp Amaro Montenegro, 1 1/2 oz Dolin Blanc)
Stir well and strain into cocktail glass.

For the Caperitif my current favorite substitution remains Blanc/Bianco Vermouth with a dash of Amaro Montenegro.

Accurate or not, this substitution is really tasty in the Swazi Freeze Cocktail, in fact the Swazi Freeze is just about the best use of 40 Creek 3 Grain I’ve found so far.  Also one of the most enjoyable Savoy cocktails I’ve made in the while. I suppose, not dissimilar to one of my favorite modern cocktails, Julie Reiner’s Slope Cocktail.

As usual, cocktails with weird names and Caperitif in the ingredient list are related to South, or in this case Southern, Africa.

For more information about Swazis and Swaziland:

The Swaziland National Trust Website

This post is one in a series documenting my ongoing effort to make all of the cocktails in the Savoy Cocktail Book, starting at the first, Abbey, and ending at the last, Zed.

© erik for Underhill-Lounge, 2010. | Permalink | No comment | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags: Canadian Club Whisky, Caperitif, Cocktails, Peach Brandy

Feed enhanced by Better Feed from Ozh

Mr. Eric Sutton’s Gin Blind Cocktail
6 Parts Gin. (1 1/2 oz Hayman’s Old Tom Gin)
3 Parts Curacao. (3/4 oz Clement Creole Shrubb)
2 Parts Brandy. (1/2 oz Germain-Robin Fine Alambic Brandy)
1 Dash Orange Bitters. (1 dash Regan’s Orange Bitters, 1 Dash Fee’s)

Invented by THE Mr. Sutton. Chelsea Papers please copy. This is a very troublesome form of refreshment.

I went with a quarter ounce per “part”.

Well, if there was ever a cocktail that needed a “hard shake”, it’s this one, simply based on the proof of the ingredients involved. Though, aside from the measurements and strength, I’m don’t know what is so very “troublesome” about this “refreshment”. A tad sweet, but nothing particularly evil or insidious…

Looking up Eric Sutton, I’m not sure who this might be named after. Google is not particularly helpful.

There was a gentleman of that name who worked translating many books, notably Sartre and de Maupassant, into English in the 1920s through the 1950s. Though now that I look closer, it seems he translated books for Constable & Co, the publishers of the original version of the Savoy Cocktail Book! Oh ho!

One friend suggested that Carl Sutton, of Sutton Cellars fame, and myself should get together, drink a bunch of these, and get into some trouble. Knowing Carl, I believe that would be the outcome, no matter what we might be drinking.

This post is one in a series documenting my ongoing effort to make all of the cocktails in the Savoy Cocktail Book, starting at the first, Abbey, and ending at the last, Zed.

© erik for Underhill-Lounge, 2010. | Permalink | No comment | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags: Brandy, Cocktails, Curacao, Gin, Orange Bitters

Feed enhanced by Better Feed from Ozh

Sunshine Cocktail (No. 2)
The Juice of 1/4 Lemon. (Juice 1/4 Lemon (about .25 ounce))
2 Dashes Crème de Cassis (5ml/Teaspoon Brizard Creme de Cassis)
1/2 French Vermouth. (1 oz Noilly Prat Dry)
1/2 Bacardi Rum. (1 oz Havana Club Anejo Blanco)
Shake well and strain into cocktail glass.

What Sunshine Numbers 1 and 2 have to do with one another, is anyone’s guess. Clearly there is no familial resemblance based on ingredients.

What we do have is a rather light and gussied up version of the Bacardi Cocktail (Rum, Grenadine, and Lime or Lemon Juice). The addition of Dry Vermouth softens the impact of the rum and the Cassis stands rather head and shoulders above the average Grenadine. Well, either that, or it is an El Presidente with a bit of Lemon.

Either way, quite a pleasant cocktail.

Heck, this would be even nicer doubled and served over ice with some soda, especially on a hot day!

Again struggling with the light meter on this one, so apologies for the murky appearance of the photo.

If you see Lauren Bacall coming, be sure to hand her a glass of Sunshine BEFORE you whistle.

This post is one in a series documenting my ongoing effort to make all of the cocktails in the Savoy Cocktail Book, starting at the first, Abbey, and ending at the last, Zed.

© erik for Underhill-Lounge, 2010. | Permalink | One comment | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags: Bacardi Rum, Cocktails, Creme de Cassis, French Vermouth, Lemon Juice

Feed enhanced by Better Feed from Ozh

Sunshine Cocktail (No. 1)
1 Dash Angostura Bitters.
1/3 Italian Vermouth. (3/4 oz Carpano Antica)
2/3 Dry Gin. (1 1/2 oz Ransom Old Tom)
1 Lump of Ice.
Shake (I stirred) well and strain into medium size glass. Squeeze orange peel on top.

Generally the inclusion of “1 Lump Ice” is an indication of a 19th Century Cocktail source, Jerry Thomas or similar, but I couldn’t turn this up in any likely books.

Anyway, I’ve lately been telling everyone I need to mix more with the Ransom Old Tom gin to get a better handle on its properties. This seemed like a fine excuse, being nothing other than a simplified Martinez.

And, yeah, it is quite tasty. I suppose I kind of missed the Maraschino (or Curacao) included in more elaborate recipes for the Martinez, but still, quite nice. And it wouldn’t have been anywhere near as interesting with Dry Gin.

Was having some meter/battery related problems with the camera, thus the rather Noir appearance of the photo. Suggest wearing a trench coat, packing a heater, and serving this one to a dame, naughty or nice, your choice.

This post is one in a series documenting my ongoing effort to make all of the cocktails in the Savoy Cocktail Book, starting at the first, Abbey, and ending at the last, Zed.

© erik for Underhill-Lounge, 2010. | Permalink | 6 comments | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags: Angostura Bitters, Dry Gin, Italian Vermouth, Old-Tom Gin, Orange Peel

Feed enhanced by Better Feed from Ozh

The next thing you know about is Sunrise.

Oh for cripes sake, talk about an annoying recipe!

Let’s fix it:

Sunset Cocktail
1 apricot, Quartered
1 apricot pit, crushed
2 oz Germain-Robin Fine Alambic Brandy
1 tsp. Clear Creek Kirsch
2 tsp. We Love Jam Blenheim Apricot Jam
Whole Zest of 1 Orange
2 oz Noilly Prat Dry
3 oz Right Gin*
Sparkling Wine (Blanquette de Limoux, Cuvee Berlene 2005)

Method: Combine Apricot, Apricot Pit, Brandy, Kirsch, Jam, and Orange Peel. Let stand for a couple hours. Transfer to a large mixing tin, add the dry vermouth and gin. Ice and shake gently. Double strain into medium size glasses and top up with Sparkling Wine.

Well, at least the recipe, if not the technique, is slightly less annoying.

I increased the jam quotient since I decided to include the sparkling wine. It has a tendency to dry out cocktails more than regular wine would. Suggest shaking gently or even rolling to prevent pulverizing the apricot. You will want to double strain to catch those apricot and fruit pieces. You may need a spoon to encourage the liquid’s passage through the strainer.

With all that work, you would hope that it was at least tasty, and indeed, it is pretty darn tasty.

In fact, the warning, “The next thing you know about is Sunrise,” seemed a bit apt, far more easy drinking than it’s alcohol content would suggest. I would not suggest drinking all “6″ Sunset Cocktails yourself, even if your wife is out of town and you aren’t driving anywhere. You will probably regret it.

*Right Gin was sent to me by a firm promoting the brand.

This post is one in a series documenting my ongoing effort to make all of the cocktails in the Savoy Cocktail Book, starting at the first, Abbey, and ending at the last, Zed.

© erik for Underhill-Lounge, 2010. | Permalink | 4 comments | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags: Apricot, Apricot Jam, Apricot Pit, Brandy, Cocktails, Dry Gin, Dry Vermouth, Kirsch, Orange Peel

Feed enhanced by Better Feed from Ozh

Sunrise Cocktail
1/4 Grenadine. (1/3 oz Small Hand Foods Grenadine)
1/4 Crème de Violette. (1/3 oz Benoit-Serres Liqueur de Violette)
1/4 Yellow Chartreuse. (1/3 oz Yellow Chartreuse)
1/4 Cointreau. (1/3 oz Cointreau)
Use liqueur glass and pour ingredients in carefully so that they do not mix.

Odd to have two Pousse Cafe style cocktails so close together.

I tried to pour this in the order given, only to discover that the Yellow Chartreuse preferred to be under the Liqueur de Violette. Well, if you pour these things steadily and slowly enough, they usually self correct.

Can’t say that there is anything in particular to recommend this combination, other than maybe that the orange of the Cointreau and the Violette of the Benoit-Serres are a pretty interesting combo.

Other than that, it’s just a pretty drink, even if it is slightly out of order.

This post is one in a series documenting my ongoing effort to make all of the cocktails in the Savoy Cocktail Book, starting at the first, Abbey, and ending at the last, Zed.

© erik for Underhill-Lounge, 2010. | Permalink | One comment | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags: Cocktails, Cointreau, Creme de Violette, Grenadine, Yellow Chartreuse

Feed enhanced by Better Feed from Ozh