uruguaymyway

Negotiating the Curves

2010-07-30T21:09:00.018-03:00

Wow, has it really been four and a half months since my last post? For those of you who haven't totally given up on me, our move to Piriapolis in April actually turned into two moves. The second move being in June. Needless to say saving money on a cheap place to live isn't always the best thing to do. 'Nuf said about that.

We are loving where we are except for the unusually cold and rainy winter. The name of our new barrio in Piriapolis is Punta Fria (I guess we should have paid more attention.) We are extremely excited to have our electric bed warmer, gas stove and two electric heaters.

Old business out of the way, it is time to talk about culture shock again. Right now I am in the midst of major negotiations with my new found home. For me, this phase is a combination of stages two (cultural shock), three (initial adjustment), and four (mental isolation). It is the time when differences between the old and adopted cultures seriously collide. What it boils down to is a frustration that things are not the way they are supposed to be. According to experts, mood swings are the norm and depression is not uncommon. Hellooooo!

These stages manifest within weeks of arrival and last anywhere from six months to two years. I am at month 18 and there are still days I have trouble coming to grips with life in a 2nd (some days I would argue 3rd) world country. I guess the sociologists and psychologists had to come up with a "one size fits all" definition of culture shock, but let me tell you, it varies greatly from person to person.

I do actually have moments when things seem fairly normal and I feel like this is home, so maybe I am moving in the right direction, albeit slowly. I just hope the normal moments increase exponentially. Like really soon. Let's just refer to this as the 'winter of my discontent'. Not terribly original, but an apt description nonetheless.

On a lighter note, we are meeting great people, both locals and expats alike. Our circle of friends is larger than it ever was in the States, so I guess there is something to be said for life-altering, mind-numbing change. Oh yeah, and Uruguay placed 4th in the World Cup. I felt extremely proud for our little country. What a huge accomplishment. And this week Joe and I found out we are officially Uruguayan residents.

A perfect transition to the final stage of culture shock. Coming soon...

Remembering the Honeymoon

2010-03-19T17:24:00.013-03:00

We recently celebrated our first anniversary of living in Uruguay. It has been an amazing year. I think time passes faster in the southern hemisphere, or maybe it's an illusion due to my advancing age.

We are now in the process of preparing for a move to Piriapolis to save $$ and to get away from the din of the city for a few months.

I thought I would take a break from packing to begin my series on the five stages of culture shock. What better time to reflect on the honeymoon phase than at the first year mark.

We arrived in Montevideo on a balmy Wednesday morning last March at 4:15am after a 30-hour travel odyssey with our small terrier. After a few hours of well needed sleep at the hotel, we kicked off our adventure with a lively parrilla lunch in Ciudad Vieja at the Mercado del Puerto.

We were instantly captivated with the city, the food, and the people. The first few weeks at the hotel were like a dream. Playing the tourists, we tried all of the great restaurants, explored the streets on daily walks with the dog, tested our language skills (or lack thereof) and stretched our wings for the first time in a long while.

How invigorating it was to be in a strange place with no idea what the next minute, hour or day would bring. We knew no one. We had never been here before--we moved here sight unseen. Everything was new and exciting.

Even after moving into our apartment and developing a daily routine, I still felt as though I was on some sort of a high. I was amazed at my patience when trying to get things done, such as setting up Internet access for our bank account and working through the minutiae of the residency process. Nothing seemed to fluster me.

Our circle of friends grew and we felt like we were settling in nicely to our newly adopted home.

Then, without warning, reality started to seep in and the veneer of my seemingly idyllic existence began showing signs of wear...

There's No Place Like Home

2010-02-20T16:45:00.010-02:00

I've been out of sorts of late. Up one day, down the next. Kind of tired, kind of restless, kind of bored, kind of anxious...not myself. Yes, I'd say I am flummoxed. What a great word.

It all came to a head last Sunday as I watched the Italian classic Ladri di biciclette (with Spanish subtitles, of course) and went into a two day funk. You see, the protagonist realized the city he knew as home had utterly defeated him. He was dejected, confused and without hope.

After pondering his fate for a few hours, I realized that was exactly how I felt. The city I had chosen to call home had defeated me.

Now, before you get too concerned and suggest I get my hands on some good meds, I will tell you my symptoms are quite normal. What I have is a good old-fashioned case of culture shock.

I am happy to report culture shock is not a medical condition. I don't have a "disorder" or "syndrome". My brain is just confused over the many changes it has experienced over the last 11 plus months.

Culture shock is not just a term describing the realities of living in a foreign country. It's more nuanced and longer term.

While in Piriapolis over Christmas, Joe and I shared a conversation with a Uruguayan sociology major who described in detail the five stages of culture shock. We listened with rapt attention, recognizing each one, except, of course, the final stage of acceptance and integration. Check back with me in year.

For a while. the stages were progressing in true textbook fashion. Now they seem to be flip-flopping all over the place. Apparently this is quite common as well. Wonderful.

Considering culture shock is such a large part of the expat experience, my next five blog posts will describe witty and engaging personal examples of each stage. Maybe not so much witty and engaging as frustrating and irritating.

Today, I'm happy with my life in a strange land. Tomorrow may be a different story. I will say living in a foreign country is like the mother of all amusement park rides. Woohoo.

You People Eat This Stuff?!?

2010-01-26T09:04:00.034-02:00

I realize it is the end of January, but I wanted to touch briefly on our recent holiday trip to Piriapolis. We spent a lovely Christmas with a nice mix of expats and locals. There were great conversations, fireworks on the beach, music and general merriment. Like most holidays this one was all about the food, but with a different twist.

For starters, our Christmas Eve meal was a real treat for the expats...a Mexican food feast comprised of soft hamburger tacos, jalapenos, guacamole, Doritos chips and refried beans. It was met with a great deal less enthusiasm by the locals. The basic Uruguayan diet consists mainly of bland foods, so even the slightest hint of spice in the taco seasoning was overwhelming to native tastebuds. And the guacamole...they couldn't get their minds around this mushy green dip that is so revered by those of us from the Northern Hemisphere. Not easily daunted, we tried to win them over yet again.

The next day, our Christmas dinner consisted of all things American...turkey, dressing, green bean casserole and fruit ambrosia. Favorite expat holiday dishes all suited to the North American palette. Little did we know these familiar menu choices would also be considered exotic to the locals.

The one brave soul tried every dish we offered up and was extremely gracious in saying it was all very tasty. Others were not so adventurous...to them the taste and the texture of the turkey was strange. The green bean casserole went untouched. I'm not sure what they thought of the dressing. Probably not much. The ambrosia was acceptable, but only as a dessert. Uruguayans never mix sweet and savory foods on the same plate. So I guess cranberry sauce with the turkey would have been a big no-no! Good news is you can't find cranberries in Uruguay.

Our breakfasts however, were a perfect melding of the cultures. Toast, butter (lots of butter) marmalade, American coffee sweetened with freshly whipped heavy cream and of course, mate (see my post of 7/2/09.)

As with all great American holiday meals there are always leftovers. We expats left it to the local contingent to come up with subsequent meals featuring the massive amount of leftover turkey. Turnabout is fair play. They ate our food, now we try theirs.

I am pleased to say their creativity in the kitchen was the crowning touch to our weekend festivities. They prepared a wonderful turkey casserole with bite-sized bits of turkey, rice, potatoes and hard boiled eggs. The dish was warm, filling and delicious. The same casserole is also designed to be eaten cold, which we did for our next meal. It was served with a fresh tomato and cucumber salad topped with a chimichurri of olive oil, oregano, basil and salt.

The leftover green bean casserole and dressing were shared among the expats. The ambrosia was, of course, served separately as a dessert.

I would like to thank our Uruguayan friends for being such good sports and teaching this expat a thing or two about cultural differences. It was a truly unique Christmas that will always hold a special place in my heart.

Felices Fiestas!

2009-12-19T12:39:00.005-02:00

I've been busy. Very, very busy. I know that is no excuse for ignoring my blog. But I have been very busy. Terribly busy. I'm sorry, but I've been busy.

We are off to Piriapolis to spend a bohemian Christmas with a small group of expat orphans. Should be a fun time--a little sol, a little vino and lots of good asado and nice people to share in the experience.

Just so you know, one of my main New Year's resolutions is to be a better blogger. I will do my level best to update this darned thing more often than once every couple of months. We'll see what happens.

Here's wishing everyone the happiest of holidays and a better new year than the one before (or at least one not quite so busy.)

Besos

Way South of the Border - Part Dos

2009-11-24T20:35:00.001-02:00

I am happy to report we have had an opportunity to visit the two Mexican restaurants in Montevideo and they aren't half bad. For those of you residing in or visiting Montevideo, try one, the other or both next time you have a hankering for Mexican food. For those of you North of the border, just humor me for a few moments...

Hacienda Las Palomas is located in the affluent barrio Carrasco (home to diplomats, movers and shakers and people with access to ridiculously large sums of money.)

The food is really quite flavorful and imaginative. The meal begins with crispy fried strips of flour tortillas served with three varieties of salsa -- verde, mild red and a dark red picante. If I haven't mentioned the bland nature of the food here, I am now. When dining at Hacienda Las Palomas we always consume more than our fair share of the salsa picante.

Potent margaritas are available frozen and on the rocks. Lemon slices garnish the authentic Mexican stemware. (You can buy limes here, so why would they choose a lemon for garnish? Fodder for another post, I suppose.)

On our last visit, I ordered nachos. I was pleasantly surprised by the creative interpretation of this venerable classic. My nachos arrived on a large platter featuring neat compartments, each containing a fresh take on traditional nacho ingredients -- a crispy version of homemade chips shaped like dainty quatrefoils, light and fluffy guacamole, black bean refritos and a heavenly rich cheese sauce. (I suspect whipped heavy cream had been folded into the cheese sauce to give it an incredible ganache-like consistency and buttery pale yellow color.)

I can also vouch for their enchiladas, tacos and chicken wraps. All were delicious and inspired. For dessert, my sweet tooth prefers chocolate, so I was compelled to sample their version of death by chocolate--a small, dense torta served warm with dark chocolate sauce and a mound of vanilla ice cream. A pleasant, but filling end to the meal.

Entree prices range from $15 to $23 USD. A margarita will set you back $6. While these prices may not seem too outrageous to the average American, they are considered quite high here. Dinner at Hacienda Las Palomas is usually reserved for a special evening out with friends. Call to confirm hours and make reservations 600 179 (Wednesday-Saturday 7pm-close; Sunday for lunch only). Easy to find at Pedro Domingo Murillo 6566 in Carrasco.

La Lupita is the other choice for Mexican cuisine in the city. Authentic Mexican food created by authentic Mexicans. This diminutive restaurant is located in Punta Carretas. While the neighborhood is upscale, the restaurant is real and unpretentious; a favorite among locals. Corn tortillas and chips are made from scratch. The salsa brims with the flavor of fresh tomatoes, but could use a bit more kick. The food may lack pizzazz, but the restaurant makes up for it with heart.

I have tried the tacos, enchiladas rojas and tortilla soup. All basic, hearty and never once a disappointment. The tortilla soup at La Lupita is a steamy onion broth served with tortilla strips, smoked chipotle peppers, grated cheese and cubed avocados on the side for the diner to add as they wish. Fabulous on a chilly July evening.

Margaritas are served over finely crushed ice and are garnished with the familiar slice of lemon and taste amazingly like their lemonade sold by the pitcher. Lemon margaritas. Hmmmm. Odd, but refreshing.

Prices at La Lupita are half that of Hacienda Las Palomas. Good news for those of us on a budget. Get there early or call and see if they accept reservations 712 1966 (hours Tuesday-Saturday 8:30pm-12:30am; closed Sunday and Monday.) Warm weather heralds longer waits and the lively crowd spills onto al fresco sidewalk seating. Located at Luis de la Torre 565 and Gregorio Suárez in Punta Carretas.

Bon appetite (and yes, they do say that here.)

Way South of the Border - Part Uno

2009-10-08T16:26:00.015-02:00

I am a Mexican food snob. I love Mexican food. My husband loves Mexican food. Let me be more specific. We love Tex-Mex, not to be confused with authentic Mexican food. He is from Texas. I lived in Texas for 10 years. Our long-time home, Colorado even had Tex-Mex. It just kind of gets in your blood. Authentic Mexican food is fine and dandy, but we were never really satisfied with the southern California fare. After more than a few failed attempts, we completely gave up searching. Del Taco became our sole Mexican destination.

It's funny how one's perspective can suddenly change.

Now that we live way south of the border, the cravings for super spicy salsa, copious amounts of grated cheddar cheese and sour cream, jalapenos, tacos and enchiladas (even the bad ones) have come flooding back. This being a Latin American country, you'd think there might be a fair amount of that kind of stuff here. You'd be wrong. Not even a Taco Bell (I salivate at the thought.)

I could prepare Mexican food at home. The nearby Tienda Inglesa has Old El Paso flour tortillas (with a hefty price tag.) They offer fresh and pickled jalapenos, ground beef, taco sauce, cheese, avocados and limes. All of the ingredients are available (short of sour cream, which I now understand you can make from scratch.)

I know how to cook and sometimes enjoy it. I consider myself to be respectable in the culinary arts. But you see, I'm at a slight disadvantage. Our current kitchen (and I use the term loosely) takes up about one square meter of our 60 square meter apartment. It's not someplace I want to spend a great deal of my time. Imagine two tall people with a small dog underfoot, crammed into a closet with a toy stove and no counter space. That gives you an idea of what cooking at home is like.

Thus began our journey. The search for Mexican food in Montevideo. Any Mexican food--good or bad--we really didn't care. We were no longer Tex-Mex elitists. We had become sniveling, whimpering junkies looking for our next fix. Our cravings were driving us to the brink of despair. Luckily we recalled hearing that two Mexican restaurants actually do exist in Montevideo. But alas, in the fog of our first few months in the city, we could not remember the names or the locations.

But at least we knew there was hope. To be continued...

Songbirds of Montevideo

2009-09-24T21:12:00.007-03:00

Yes, it is springtime in Montevideo. The days are gently warming, the trees are budding, the flowers are blooming and the birds are singing sweet songs to usher in the new season. I was just reading that Uruguay is known as the Kingdom of the Birds. There are over 400 beautiful and unusual species residing in this country, but one in particular is most notorious--known to the locals as the official songbird of Montevideo.

They never migrate. They are omnipresent. Their maddening call pierces the night air and echoes throughout the day. I am convinced they must mate at an alarming rate. It seems hundreds of new birds hatch each day and join the cacophony of the city. If I may, I would would to try to recreate their high-pitched, high-decibel shrieking:

Ooowee! Ooowee! Ooowee! Weeooo! Weeooo! Weeooo! Eeeee! Eeeee! Eeeee! Whooeep! Whooeep! Whooeep! Beeeep! Beeeep! Beeeep!

This sequence repeats until the creature either gets tired or dies, I'm not sure which. We recently listened to one screech for 18 hours straight. This one didn't tire or die. A passerby finally reached the breaking point and killed it.

These birds prefer to nest in crowded parking garages (unfortunately our apartment happens to back up to one of the busiest in town.) When one chirps, they all join in and at times, the air is filled with nothing but their frenzied twittering.

This species is not native to the region. Their introduction to the country was somewhat of a government mandate. They were imported in great numbers to protect the citizens of Montevideo from an increase in theft. However, as with most government-sponsored solutions, this one is completely out of hand. There is no solution to the solution that has become a huge problem. I would even do my part if officials called for a mass extermination of these useless creatures.

Before you get your PETA panties in a knot, the songbirds I refer to are of the genus autophila alarmica--the common car alarm.

The good news is, the din from the two construction sites directly adjacent to our apartment building has all but eclipsed the sound of the songbirds. It gets better. Our lease isn't up for another six months. Ain't life a kick in the pants?

A Day en el Campo

2009-08-18T12:38:00.027-03:00

I am remiss in not updating you on our adventures in South America. Frankly, life is getting in the way these days. I have been busy earning a buck or two writing freelance web articles and taking informal Spanish lessons twice a week from a very patient friend. However, today I thought I would take a break and tell you about our trip to the country last week.

Several months ago, I was in the little market in our building and approached an English speaking couple from Texas. We chatted briefly and subsequently joined them for dinner, learning they were in the process of building two houses outside a small town (La Mariscala) about 2 1/2 hours northeast of Montevideo in the Department of Lavalleja. One of their sons is living in Uruguay full time and will supervise the construction, the husband is currently on an overseas business assignment and the wife is splitting her her time between here and the US until the houses are built.

She was in town again recently for a couple of weeks and invited us to tag along for a trip to their property and to visit a working estancia owned by Uruguayan friends. Considering we don't own a car and were suffering from cabin fever as a result of the chilly winter, we jumped at the chance for a change of scenery, delightful company and the opportunity to breathe fresh air (I'm not implying Montevideo is congested and polluted, I'm flat out admitting it.)

The scenery on the drive up reminded me of the landscape around southern California--low rolling mountains (the locals refer to them as cerros--hills, to us gringos), groves of eucalyptus and wild palm trees. This particular part of the Uruguay is primarily ranch land dotted with an appropriate amount of gauchos, horses, cattle and sheep.

We pulled off the main highway outside of Mariscala and onto a well maintained dirt road and arrived a few minutes later at their property. We were immediately taken with an impressive stand of large trees that are home to wild green parrots (I actually heard and saw one, but wasn't quick enough on the trigger to snap a picture.)

We wandered about enjoying the sunny day, admiring the beautiful countryside and checking out the two inviting streams that wind their way through the property.

After surveying the land, we grabbed a quick bite to eat at Mariscala's main 24-hour hangout, Restaurante El Rancho--part truck stop, bus stop, parrillada and local watering hole--for a plate of papas fritas and barbequed chicken (chicken seasoned with lemon, garlic, green olives and red bell peppers and grilled over a wood fire. Quite tasty.)

Then it was off to the estancia to make new acquaintances and learn about rural life in Uruguay. Plenty of horses, cattle, dogs, sheep and pigs on roughly 325 hectares. We even witnessed a sheep shearing by a gaucho called "Gaucho". I had a marvelous time hanging out with all the critters. Aren't these piglets just the sweetest? We named them "Bacon" and "Sausage". Makes me want to give up pork. Someday. Maybe.

Before long, it was time to hop in the car for the journey back to the big city and a rendevous with our little dog who was none too happy spending the day by herself in the apartment. The good news is we have an open invitation to visit the country any time and bring poochie along for the ride.

I am looking forward to visiting our friends in the country once their compound is completed. I'm not much of a country girl, so it is doubtful I'll be riding a horse or anything like that, but I do think I could easily adjust to spending a lazy summer afternoon by the stream, sipping a cold beer and listening to the chatter of the parrots. La buena vida.

Can We Talk?

2009-07-26T12:45:00.004-03:00

Sadly, the answer to that question is, "No, not much."

Let me explain. Yesterday was a normal day. I took care of some business, ran errands and walked the dog. It was a normal day with one disturbing exception--people wanted to talk to me. This is odd because I can sometimes go several days at a time without engaging in so much as simple pleasantries with other people, but yesterday was quite different. People actually wanted to converse, much to my dismay.

I am not anti-social. I love to talk to people. But I have a horrible secret to share with you...my Spanish sucks.

If I do happen to have an involved conversation with someone, it generally requires they speak a modicum of English. Not yesterday. Not one person could summon up a word of my native language. What did I do to deserve this? And it didn't seem to matter to anyone that all I could offer up were a few awkwardly chosen words and phrases--it must have been excruciating to hear. But it didn't seem to matter. They just kept talking.

Luckily my comprehension level has advanced well beyond my language skills. I found myself nodding a great deal and threw out what I hoped was an appropriate word or two when it was my turn to speak.

My favorite exchange came about while I was taking the dog for her afternoon walk. In the distance, I spotted an impeccably dressed older woman walking her strange looking terrier. I have seen her a number of times in the park and we recently started waving greetings to each other from afar. But yesterday, I caught her out of the corner of my eye moving slowly towards me. Before I knew it, we were toe to toe, dog to dog and face to face.

It just so happens this was one of the coldest days so far this winter and I was dressed like I had just set out on the Iditarod. She was dressed, as always, in a fashionable coat, sweater, skirt and a really nifty little pair of shoes.

She started speaking and I immediately broke into my patented apology for my lousy Spanish, which didn't seem to deter her. Standing in the bitter cold wind, we established where I lived, where she lived and for how long, what floors we live on, where I was from, where she was from, our dog's names and ages, how she was looking forward to spring and that California must be a wonderful place as she had seen it in movies. In my broken Spanish I asked if we could possibly take coffee together sometime soon.

I don't know if it was the bone chilling cold or the ten minute conversation in Spanish, but by the end of our chat, I had a screaming headache. Learning Spanish hurts.

All in all, I enjoyed the day. And I think we may be taking coffee soon.

Baby Wipes and the Residency Process

2009-07-17T11:49:00.021-03:00

I am by no means an expert on the residency process, but having been through a good part of it, I do have a several tips and can recommend a couple of websites that will point you in the right direction. I'll get to the baby wipes in a minute.

This is a brief description of the steps involved and items you will need for permanent residency: (information thanks to Uruguay: The Owner's Manual by International Living):

Letter of Intent for Immigration
Several passport photos
Copies of passport
Criminal background check. (You can obtain this at Interpol in Montevideo)
Evidence of financial means of support
Legalized birth and marriage certificates
Uruguayan health certificate (requires a simple physical and dental checkup)
Copy of your entry "card" (that slip of paper you receive upon entering the country) We did not receive one and it wasn't a major obstacle.
All documents and certificates translated into Spanish by a escribano(a).
The above items turned over to immigration with a copy of your passport

Here are a few things you can do before your move to expedite the residency process once you arrive:

Obtain official documentation of your monthly income (wage records, mutual fund documents, Social Security statement, pensions information, etc.)
Get certified (authenticated) copies (with seal) of your birth and marriage certificates from the county of origin.
The above certificates must be legalized by the appropriate Uruguayan consulate in the United States. Check the Uruguayan Consular's website for a list of U.S. offices and the zone they represent.
Women between the ages of 21-65 are required to present results of a current pap smear and mammogram in order to receive a health certificate.

It is best to perform numbers 2 and 3 prior to your move. The logistics of these steps would make it extremely difficult to do long distance.

I would recommend hiring an relocation consultant prior to your move. These folks know how to get things done and are very helpful, especially if Spanish is not your first language. They will work with the escribano, set up appointments and serve as translator in addition to following your residency paperwork trail. Your best bet is to do an online search, interview to two or three and check the Uruguay Living forum for references.

Finally, the baby wipes. Right before our immigration "appointment" in Maldonado, our relocation consultant said he had to make a quick stop at the farmacia. He strolled out with a package of baby wipes. I didn't question it, I thought maybe he was doing a favor for a friend.

It became abundantly clear when the immigration official completed my paperwork (on a manual typewriter), ushered me into a back room and proceeded to roll copious amounts of gloppy, gooey, India ink onto my fingers. No inkless fingerprint pads here. Also no soap and water. The Interpol experience was virtually identical.

In the past four months I have learned the importance of research, of the unique nature of Latin bureaucracy and the virtue of patience. But ultimately, the best advice I can impart is to bring a super-size package of baby wipes to your immigration and Interpol appointments. And don't forget to leave the rest of the pack behind for the next messy soul.

Read All About It!

2009-07-08T19:19:00.005-03:00

I have never been into shameless self-promotion, but considering I am a blogger and budding freelance writer it has become apparent I need to take advantage of any opportunity to toot my own horn. So here goes...

I am pleased to announce I am officially a published author! I submitted a travel article on Montevideo to Associated Content and recently received word that my work was accepted and I will actually be paid for my trouble!
Now here's where you come in. I received a token upfront payment, but I am also paid based on traffic to my content. In other words, each time a different person clicks my article, I receive a small (and I mean small!) payment. Only one view per person (or computer.) To earn a meager income from this particular content, I need THOUSANDS of content views.

Surely you can understand the importance of this for a starving artist! Please, please, please forward the url to everyone you know and tell them to check out my article (explain to them it's a favor for an eccentric friend in South America. By the way, I think you and they will actually enjoy reading it!) You can even register as my "fan", post a comment or add me to your "favorites" on Associated Content's website.

http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/1855217/visit_montevideo_uruguay_as_an_alternative.html

I will keep you updated on my progress and additional articles as they are published in cyberspace. Thanks for your help!

Mate: A Drink for All Seasons

2009-07-02T11:51:00.029-03:00

In case you were wondering, the image in my blog banner is that of maté gourds. Maté (mah'tay) is a South American tea, if you will, prepared by steeping the dried leaves of yerba maté in hot water (in the gourd) and sipping the infusion from the gourd from a silver straw or bombilla (bom'beesha.)

Yerba maté is a species of holly that is native to parts of Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay, Chile and Brazil. The origins of the use of maté in South America is attributed to the ancient Guarani indians. Legend popularized the plant and described yerba maté as a magical herb providing strength, promoting health and nurturing friendships. As word spread, the popularity of maté grew and the herbal infusion became the main ingredient of many home medical curatives. Today, the yerba maté is dried and chopped into a somewhat powdery mixture that is sold in bags (just like coffee) and available at any market. Grocery stores even feature a maté aisle.

Maté contains virtually the same chemical stimulants found in coffee and chocolate. It's effects are said to be quite similar, which probably explains why you see people sipping the beverage at all times of the day. It is unique in that people carry their maté accoutrement (yerba maté, thermos, gourd and straw) with them in a leather case with a shoulder strap.) The beverage is generally consumed in a social setting -- although I have seen solitary drinkers walking in the mall, strolling the Rambla and at their desks in an office setting. More common is the practice of sharing the maté with friends and acquaintances.

The preparation and consumption of the drink is as much ceremony as it is science. Here is my simplistic description of the process:

One person (generally the owner of the thermos and gourd) is designated as the preparer and server. The maté gourd is filled to about 2/3 capacity. The gourd is covered with the palm of the hand, inverted and shaken for a few seconds. This action brings the finer yerba toward the top of the maté. It is further shaken to move the maté along one side of the gourd. A small amount of tepid water is poured into the emptier side and the water is allowed to absorb into the yerba maté. The straw in inserted into that spot, so the wider end touches the bottom of the gourd. The gourd is then filled with hot water from the thermos, steeped and is sipped by the host. The server refills the gourd with hot water and passes it to another person, who in turn drinks the contents. The gourd is passed from server to drinkers until the hot water from the thermos is gone. Yummy!

I have yet to try maté. They say it's an acquired taste reminiscent of dried grass clippings (not sure how you would know) or a cross between green tea and coffee. I think for now I will stick to coffee!

Live from Montevideo!

2009-06-26T14:54:00.001-03:00

Ok, Ok. I know it's been more than a while, but I've finally gotten my act together and am ready to regale you with our escapades from south of the equator.

The purpose of my blog is two-fold: I want to keep friends and family in the States updated on our new life, as well as provide a lighthearted source of information to expats in Montevideo who may be as befuddled as we are!

Our first few months have been spent dealing with mundane matters like renting an apartment, beginning the residency process, setting up and figuring out how to pay our utilities, honing our communication skills, etc. In other words, learning the little nuances of everyday life in a new country. It's all quite overwhelming and can, at times, be a full time job.

Is this a luxury hotel in Montevideo? Nope, it's our new home (at least until next April.) Torres Nauticas is a complex of 3 high rise apartment buildings in Pocitos situated one block from the Rambla. The complex has 24 hour security, a small market on the property and is located directly behind Montevideo Shopping (one of the big malls in town.) Our apartment (on the 19th floor) is 66 square meters in size, which by all accounts is pretty darn small. But we have everything we need and are growing accustomed to the close quarters (at least I am!)

We chose this apartment building because of the modern conveniences it provides. I have a washer/dryer combo -- dryers are extremely rare in Uruguay. Most people hang laundry to dry outside their apartment windows or in the lavadero (laundry room with an open window and implement to hang wet clothes.) We have the benefit of the laundry room and the dryer. The apartment also has a dishwasher (which I have yet to use as it is located in the lavadero!) The unit has radiant floor heating and air conditioning in the living room and bedroom (heat and air conditioning are also rare.)

Now, it's time to run to the market for my daily shopping (and a cappuccino!) Needless to say, I am happy to be back in the blogosphere. I look forward to sharing our journey and hearing your comments. Stay tuned.

Ciao!

Contact

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Services

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English to English "Translation"
Are you pleased with the Spanish to English translation of your message, but still think it lacks the "edge" that will appeal to your English-speaking North American audience? Not to worry! We hone the rough edges and polish your words into an impactful, succinct message -- one that speaks to your clients like never before! All without giving up the unique content and feel of your original communication. Let us provide the finishing touches to your content. It's like the icing on the cake with a cherry on top!

Wordstead Express
My goal is providing you with low cost, high quality writing (including, but not limited to: website content, advertising copy, essays, newsletters, B2B collateral, catalog copywriting, rewriting projects) and proofreading. To view my writing, go to eHow and Livestrong.com. In the "Search" box, simply type in 'Linda Chechar' for a list of links to my latest articles!

Photography
Funky, insightful images suitable for framing.
Coming soon: gallery of works

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FAQ

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What is the purpose of your blog?
To share my experiences as a US expat living in Uruguay. More importantly, I want to provide useful information to residents regarding daily life in the capital city of Montevideo.

Do you review restaurants?
Yes. I will be reviewing local restaurants as a service to my readers.

Will you tell me the best places to shop in Montevideo?
I will indeed! This is a subject near and dear to my heart and I feel obligated to share my shopping tips for those who are new to the city.

Are you a directory?
No. Do we really need another boring directory? I will, however, include pages and blogs with necessary newcomer contact information (local businesses, healthcare providers, utilities, internet/cable providers, and the like.)

What blogging platform do you use?
I use Blogger and the Minima template.

Do you accept paid ads for local businesses?
I probably will at some point. I would like this blog to be the "go to" location for concise, helpful information on enjoying life in Montevideo. I would like to introduce businesses to an untapped audience.

Can you tell me about your photography?
I am expanding my portfolio and plan to exhibit and make my photos available for purchase in the near future. My work focuses primarily on architectural elements and common items seen in a fresh and personal light. It's fun, kind of irreverent, familiar and edgy at the same time! How's that for a description?

Will you consider and use unsolicited reviews and comments about businesses in Montevideo?
By all means! Leave a comment and I take it into consideration. If I use the information, I will give credit where credit is due.

Do you promote events, businesses or restaurants if you receive a press release from a publicist?
Absolutely.

Do you provide any other services?
I am also a freelance writer tackling everything from website content to travel articles. Check out the "Services" tab for details on this and our translation "tweaking" assistance.

Author

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Linda, like many of us, was all too set in her ways. She thrived on the familiar -- people, surroundings, daily routine and life in general. Possessions were like children to be bragged about and shown off. She imagined her existence would somehow always be within the boundaries of this insulated and comfortable world. Then life suddenly and irrevocably changed. The collapse of her small business, the housing crash and a chance meeting with a stranger would transport Linda, her husband and their small dog to a place where nothing would ever be the same.

"Toto, I've a feeling we're not in Kansas anymore!" -- Dorothy, from "The Wizard of Oz"

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