I stumbled upon La Bergerie de Planpraz when researching places to eat in Chamonix before our trip. When visiting a new city, I usually book one or two restaurants in advance so I get to try local food without having to scramble at the last minute. La Bergerie de Planpraz was exactly what I was looking for in this charming winter resort of Chamonix.

Getting there

La Bergerie de Planpraz is located up the mountain at the Brevant mid-section at the 2,000-meter altitude. You have to take a gondola to get to the restaurant. Make sure you make a reservation at the restaurant well in advance as it could book up fast and also because when you buy a gondola ticket, they ask if you have a reservation.

I’m not sure if that’s because they won’t sell you the ticket if you don’t already have a reservation, or because they simply don’t want you to waste money on the gondola ticket to go up there and find out the restaurant is booked. But there is also an outdoor cafeteria Le Comptoir de Plan Praz, which shouldn’t need a reservation? I don’t know. Either way, it’s best to make a reservation in advance.

The food

The restaurant is a steak house that also serves local cheeses, charcuterie, fish, soup, salad, really yummy-looking desserts, and vegetarian dishes. To keep with the mountain vibes, we had a baked Reblochon cheese with charcuterie and potatoes. Everything was delicious. 

La Bergerie de Planpraz is considered one of the most authentic mountain restaurants. It has been awarded the title of Maitre Restauranteur since 2014, guaranteeing excellent quality and fresh local products.   

The view

The chalet-style restaurant has an indoor dining room and an outdoor terrace. We sat at the terrace with the panoramic view of the Mont Blanc, Aiguille du Midi, and Mer de Glace!

As the area was part of a ski trail, there were a lot of people taking a break for lunch, parking their skis along the side of the restaurant, adding a rustic charm to the place. 

When I took my first sip of the white wine with that spectacular view of snow-capped mountains in front of me, it felt more like a dream. What could be better than eating piping hot Reblochon cheese surrounded by white mountains watching people skiing, paragliding, and just having fun? 

Hours

In winter, the restaurant is open every day from mid-December to the end of April for two rounds of lunch at noon and 2 p.m. It’s open again mid-June until mid-September. Please check with the restaurant for exact dates and hours. 

Have fun in Chamonix, and if you try La Bergerie de Planpraz, let me know how you like it!

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We fly to Europe every year but mostly on an American carrier or its European partner airline. Last month was the first time we flew on TAP. It was a four-day trip to Lisbon, a great city that also serves as TAP’s hub for connecting flights to Europe. We had a great time in Lisbon, which I wrote about in my previous blog post here, and wouldn’t hesitate to go back.

But Lisbon was not the destination we had in mind when we first bought our tickets. In 2021, TAP was having a sale on flights to several cities in Europe, and so we bought two tickets at $363 each to Geneva, Switzerland.

But due to the airline’s drastic schedule changes, we had to cancel the Geneva tickets and got a voucher for a future trip. This experience before, during, and after the flights gave us a good idea about the airline and whether we want to use it again for our future trips to Europe.

Here’s our experience flying with TAP for the first time:

It’s a good deal if you don’t have checked bags or require a seat assignment in advance

TAP is considered a “budget” airline, so that means the tickets are relatively cheaper compared with most American carriers. As I mentioned above, we paid only $363 for a ticket to Geneva during a sale, a great deal and certainly cheaper than flying to California from either Washington Dulles or Reagan National. Normal TAP tickets to Lisbon are about $100-$200 more. 

For this ticket price, you can bring a carry-on and a personal item, but you can’t pick your seat in advance. You’ll get your seat assignment at check in, which you can do it 24 hours before your flight.

Things get expensive if you need to check a bag or want to reserve a seat so you don’t end up in a middle seat. My husband needed a window seat so he could sleep better, and I needed an aisle seat as I tended to use the bathroom a few times during a flight. We paid $45 each leg of the flight per person. So for each ticket, we paid $90 more.

My husband also checked a bag as he didn’t want to carry anything with him through the airport, and that cost him $80 each way – or $160 total. If our trip was longer than a few days, I would have to check a bag too.

And for our Lisbon tickets, we certainly paid more than our original tickets of $363 each. Now it was $508 a piece, which was in their normal price range. But because we reserved our seats in advance and needed to check a bag, it came down to $598 for me (just seat selection but without a checked bag) and $758 for him (with seat selection and a checked bag), not a great deal any more as other carriers like United charges a little bit over $600 with free seat selection and one checked bag each. 

Bag size restrictions 

I was worried when I bought the tickets and found out that the measurement of a carry-on bag was smaller than a normal size allowed on other airlines. The width of the bag allowed on TAP was only 8 inches when a normal carry-on bag allowed on most airlines measured about 9 or 10. I gathered all my carry-on bags – the ones with wheels – and all of them were bigger than 8. 

So I had to go with a very small hand carry-on bag as both the website and some online reviews said they were pretty strict with bag measurements. This stressed me out a bit as I did not have that much space for my clothes, let alone space for any purchases if I wanted to buy something there. For this reason alone, I was really thinking I wouldn’t fly TAP again.

But when we got to the airport and boarded the plane at Dulles, to our surprise they didn’t check the size of anybody’s bag at all. Most people’s carry-ons were normal sizes that were certainly bigger than 8 inches, and they breezed through. But I was cautious – I wanted to see how they handled it at Lisbon airport, TAP’s headquarters. 

On our return flight from Lisbon, they didn’t check the size or weigh the carry-on bags either. Everyone walked through with no problem.     

Beware if you buy tickets far in advance

We originally bought our tickets for Geneva in July last year for our trip in November. But days later, we got an email from the airline saying they changed their flight schedules which affected our flights. From having to wait for a connecting flight in Lisbon for only a few hours, our wait time was now 18 hours. This would have changed our trip’s itinerary, and we didn’t want that.  Usually, cancellation was not allowed for our kind of tickets, but because it was not our fault, they let us cancel our flights in exchange for credit that we could use for our future tickets.   

Because of our busy schedules, we didn’t use the vouchers until a year later, right before the vouchers expired. I made a point not to make a reservation too far in advance to avoid changes in flight schedules. 

Because of Covid, TAP had several flight cancellations and delays as they didn’t have enough staff after a massive layoff in 2020, just like many airlines. To avoid missing a connecting flight, we decided to change our destination to Lisbon as it was the only direct flight available.   

In-flight experience was good    

I didn’t have much expectation for a budget airline, but TAP’s inflight-service exceeded my expectation. Maybe because it wasn’t a full flight, nobody sat between us on our flight to Lisbon. The seat was comfy and not too small. There was a large selection of movies and shows. The food was surprisingly good. We had a good experience on-board. Six hours passed by fast. Even though our flight back to Dulles was a full flight, it was not bad either.

But Lisbon Airport’s check-in process was a bit chaotic

On our flight back, we checked in from our phone the night before and were supposed to drop our checked bag when we got to the airport. We got there more than 3 hours before our flight, and the lines were long because they automated everything and it took a bit for people to figure things out. In addition to the check-in machines, they also had machines for dropping off checked bags. You had to go through the process of weighing the bag and printing out a bag tag. Even though they had a few people walking around just in case you needed help, this could be confusing for people who had to do everything for the first time. 

We were waiting in line and thought it would be a while when a staffer told us and a few others to go to the other side of the counter where there were more machines. Not only was there no line but an airline staffer was there to help us with the process of dropping off our checked bag. 

Abrupt change of gate without notification

We thought we had everything under control after we had our boarding passes and checked our bag at Lisbon Airport. We went to our gate to make sure everything was okay. As we were there early, we walked around a bit checking out shops and grabbing a cup of coffee. When we went back to the gate again, something didn’t feel right – it was almost boarding time and nobody was there. We checked the departure board again and found out they had changed the gate! Indeed, we looked at our boarding passes and it was a different gate. We looked at our email and text messages and had not received any notification of the gate change.

To go to the new gate, we had to go through immigration. Good thing the line was not long otherwise we could have missed our flight as the new gate was so far away.  

Chaotic boarding process in Lisbon

When we got to the international area where our flight was about to depart, there was a long line waiting to get to the boarding zone. This was where staff walked up to everyone and asked security questions like whether anyone had asked us to carry anything. Then they started “boarding” people in groups of priority. 

But instead of walking right onto the plane, we went down an escalator to another waiting area to wait for a bus that would take us to the plane. It was a small waiting area and everybody was cramped in with more people coming down the escalator. It was crazy. People with priority boarding were not necessarily at the front as the line snaked across the room so many times until there was no line. We waited for the bus for about 10 minutes, and those standing near the doors got to get on the bus first. It was also an unusually long bus ride for boarding a plane.

Not user-friendly system and slow customer service

So we had to cancel our original tickets to Geneva and got vouchers for our future tickets. But when it was time for us to redeem our vouchers, I was totally confused. 

I bought both tickets, so I logged in to my TAP account, expecting to see the credit amount there. When I didn’t see that, I tried to make a reservation thinking there would be a button where I could apply my credit, but it was not there either. Confused, I called the customer service number and was told the vouchers were NOT linked to my account. The staffer told me the vouchers were emailed to me when I cancelled my original tickets, and she was happy to email them to me again. I then had to fill in the voucher numbers when I made a reservation. So far so good.

But when I made the reservation, the voucher number I received worked for me but not my husband. After a few attempts, I realized my husband must have had his own voucher number, but I couldn’t find his voucher in my in-box anywhere. Turns out, it was sent to his email. 

The fact that not everything regarding your ticket is linked is true for checked bags as well. Because my husband paid for his checked bag after I bought our tickets, he had to ask for a refund for the checked bag separately for our cancelled flight to Geneva. He called them but didn’t get through. He also emailed them and never heard back. Tired of trying to get a hold of someone, he gave up and never got a refund.

I lost a personal item during a flight from Dulles to Lisbon. I asked a TAP staffer at the Lisbon airport for help. She called a number but nobody answered, so she gave me a number and an email address to try when I got home. I called the number she gave me and no one answered. I called the customer service number on the website, someone answered and gave me a different number, and when I called, nobody answered. I emailed the address she gave me and the address listed on the website. I got a reply from the email the staffer gave me a few days later informing me that nobody returned my lost item, but I never heard back from the email listed on TAP’s website. 

Will I fly TAP again?

I think TAP is a good airline if everything goes smoothly. But if you need help with something, pack your patience as there could be a long wait or you might not get the help you need at all. So adjust your expectations if you fly with them. 

For me, I would use TAP again for flights to Portugal only. I like Lisbon, and TAP is the only airline that offers direct flights from my airport. When I fly, I prefer direct flights to avoid delays and missing connecting flights. 

For other European destinations, I’d stick with other airlines as the price is comparable with all the things that I need, the process is less chaotic, and it’s easier to get assistance if I have problems.

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What we love the most about Lisbon is the fact that it’s pretty laid-back. There are cafés, restaurants, and snack kiosks everywhere so you’ll never go hungry. Those with a sweet tooth will undoubtedly love Lisbon’s many yummy desserts, including world-renowned custard tarts. When I sank my teeth into my first real Portuguese custard tart, I nearly cried. It had just come out of the oven and was beyond delicious.

We don’t speak Portuguese but never had a problem communicating with locals as most of them spoke English really well. For those that didn’t, they were so kind and patient in explaining things to us.

So for foreigners, Lisbon is a very welcoming place. But that doesn’t mean you won’t have a few hiccups of being in a foreign country for the first time and having to figure everything out. But to me, that’s part of the allure of travel. On the road, we experience new things and learn not just about the world but ourselves.

To help you navigate Lisbon (and Sintra) better, here are a few tips you might find helpful.

There are non-stop flights from several U.S. cities to Lisbon

Wherever I go, I try to fly non-stop to save time and minimize the possibility of missing the connecting flight if the first flight is delayed. So I was happy that TAP Portugal flies directly to Lisbon from northern Virginia where we live. The non-stop flight from Washington Dulles took us to Lisbon in about 7 hours. It was our first time flying with TAP and I’m going to write about it in my next post.

Depending on where you live, your airport might have direct flights to Lisbon. I did a quick Google search and found that U.S. airports with non-stop flights to Lisbon are all on the East Coast except San Francisco and Chicago. 

Portugal is very affordable

We were shocked to find out that food and transportation in Lisbon were very inexpensive. A nice meal at a nice restaurant, for example, cost about 30-40% less than what we would have paid for in northern Virginia. We took a train from Lisbon to Sintra, and it cost 5 euros roundtrip! A tram ride to Belem cost less than 2 euros, and with a Lisboa card, it was free. Check out a Lisboa card if you plan to visit several museums and sites and take public transportation. We got ours at the Lisbon airport after we arrived.   

Gluten-free folks will be happy 

Restaurants in Lisbon are also pretty inclusive as several have gluten-free, dairy-free items and when making a reservation, they ask whether you have any dietary restriction. We dined at JNcQUOI (pronounce it as the French saying Je ne sais quoi) and Prado and both had gluten-free options.

Our hotel, which I will write about in a future post, even serves gluten-free croissants at breakfast! They of course have gluten-free bread, but we had never seen a gluten-free croissant, so I was really impressed that they’ve strived to create a breakfast spread that’s friendly to those with food restrictions.

Try to visit certain sites in the afternoon

Everywhere is packed in the morning. At 10 a.m. at Jeronimos Monastery, for example, the line was so long the wait to get in would have been at least an hour. The line to get the ticket was empty. Obviously, most people had already gotten their tickets online, and those buying tickets at the doors couldn’t get in right away but had to join the same entry line. 

We decided not to wait and walked over to the riverfront to Padrao dos Descobrimentos, a monument to the Golden Age of Discovery where ships set sail to discover the world at the height of Portugal’s maritime power.

We also checked out the Game of Thrones-esque Belem Tower even though we didn’t get in as the line was long. At noon we had lunch and went back to Jeronimos Monastery at 1 p.m. and there was no line. There were only a few people in front of us, and we walked right in.

After the monastery, we went to St. George Castle back in Alfama and there was no line. We even bought the tickets there and there were only a few people in front of us.

There was no line at Quinta de Regaleira in the afternoon either. 

Pena Palace was the only place that was packed both in the morning and afternoon. But the line moved fast for us as we bought the tickets online for 11 a.m., and we were there right around 11. We waited in line for about 15 minutes to get in and the line kept moving. Those who were there earlier than their scheduled entry time had to wait longer in another line.

The best view of the city is at St. George Castle in Alfama

I expected to find the Moorish ruins at Saint George Castle but didn’t expect such a nice view of the Lisbon rooftops and Atlantic Ocean. The castle grounds are vast and green and beautiful and I could stay there all day just to meander around. Right when you walk in on your left, there are food stalls with tables and chairs where you can have a drink and enjoy the view. I would not miss this castle. 

If you’re taking a train to Sintra, read on

We wanted to see Pena Palace and Quinta de Regaleira in Sintra. As we didn’t have a lot of time, we originally planned to take Uber, but when we mentioned it to the hotel staff, they suggested we take a train as the station was five minutes from the hotel, it would get us there in 40 minutes, and it cost only 5 or 6 euros. I’m glad we took their advice despite some confusion later on.

The following morning, we followed our iPhone map app and realized the gorgeous building with a Starbucks at Rossio Square that we passed several times was a train station. We went up the escalator to get tickets, which you can get either at ticket machines or a ticket office. 

As the line was a bit long at the ticket office, I tried the machine, but it was confusing as there was no option to choose a destination. I wanted to go to Sintra, but what I saw were buttons for various zones, single ticket, roundtrip ticket, and a few other things. I had no choice but to ask a fellow traveler for help. She pressed the roundtrip button, and I was even more confused as I hadn’t picked a destination. How would the machine know where I was going? Turns out, this Portuguese Gothic Revival building is a train station for trains to Sintra! It’s the station that serves the suburbs with Sintra as the final destination. If you want to go to other cities that are not on the way, you have to use a different station. 

It was an easy 40-minute ride. We paid only 5 euros for a roundtrip ticket. An Uber ride would have cost us over 50 euros and taken 45 minutes or even longer. 

On the way back to Lisbon, make sure you get on the train that says Rossio as there are trains to other stations in the Lisbon area. We took the one going to Lisbon Oriente thinking it meant Lisbon bound! Haha! We had to change trains to go back to the station where we could get a train to Rossio.

If you’re taking a taxi or Tuktuk, read on

When you get in a taxi, make sure the driver turns on the meter. We took a cab from the airport to the hotel and didn’t notice the driver never turned on the meter. By the time we got to the hotel, he told us the trip cost 55 euros when it was not supposed to be over 30. On our return trip to the airport, we asked the hotel to book us a taxi, and we paid only 29 euros with the meter on.

We also took a Tuktuk from Sintra train station to Pena Palace and were charged 20 euros each when it shouldn’t be more than 10 euros each. So don’t be like us. Negotiate or wait for the next one. I had no idea why I didn’t speak up even though I knew it was not the right price. 

Also, try to get a bigger Tuktuk because Pena Palace is high up the mountain and it’s harder for a smaller Tuktuk with a smaller engine to go up the hill. And hang tight as there are a lot of swift turns. We had a blast though. It was hilarious trying not to fall off the Tuktuk as the driver did his best to maneuver the vehicle up the hill.

After our visit to Pena Palace, we looked for a Tuktuk or a cab to take us to Quinta de Regaleira. It was a bit tricky to get one as there was only a few waiting around and you had no idea when the next one would come. A Tuktuk that was there was taken, but the driver yelled out for another driver who could take us. His Tuktuk was parked at the nearby parking lot, not up front like other Tuktuks. Red flag number one. He also told us that he could drop us near Quinta de Regaleira and we had to walk 3 minutes on a flat surface. We thought a vehicle was not allowed at the entrance, and since we had no idea when the next Tuktuk was coming and a 3-minute walk was not bad, we agreed. The price was not bad – 10 euros per person. Maybe because his Tuktuk seated 6, he picked up another family of 3. We were okay with it as there was room and there were not a lot of Tuktuks around. 

He dropped us off at an intersection and we walked about 10 minutes to the entrance, the last few minutes up the hill. There were cabs and Tuktuks all over at the entrance. It dawned on us that, for some reason, he might not be licensed to take passengers and so he couldn’t park where other Tuktuks parked and drop people off where other Tuktuks did. Interesting experience.    

That’s it for now. I hope you find this post useful. Have fun in Lisbon!

The post 7 Things You Should Know Before Visiting Portugal appeared first on Eat. Love. Vacation.

The restaurant was built in 1900 for the Universal Exhibition and was originally called buffet station. Inaugurated by then French Prime Minister Emile Loubet, it wasn’t open until a year later to serve travelers arriving in Paris by train and introduce them to a gourmet experience in a luxury setting that Paris was, and is, known for. 

The restaurant was built by famous architect Marius Toudoire, who was commissioned by railway company Paris-Lyon-Mediterranean that ran train services from Paris to the Cote d’Azure. In 1963, the buffet station became Le Train Bleu, which means the blue train, as a tribute to the Paris-Ventimille train line that ran along the French Riviera. 

The paintings in the restaurant depict scenes from that era, including destinations the train line served and famous people like actress Sarah Bernhardt and writer Edmund Rostand. In 1972, the restaurant was listed as a historical monument. Luminaries like Coco Chanel, Salvador Dali, and Brigitte Bardot were spotted dining there.

Once stepping inside, you’re be reminded of the bygone era of luxurious train travel at the end of 19^th century and the beginning of the 20^th century. Back then, travel took longer, so services were designed to help travelers pass their time and enjoy themselves.

I’m a history buff who loves train travel and beautiful architectural details, so this restaurant is up my alley. Paris is full of beautiful places, but this restaurant is so unique because of its location and history. Gastronomically speaking, however, there is room for improvement although the food was beautifully presented. 

All in all, we enjoyed our experience and would go back, especially if we’re taking a train from Gare de Lyon!

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Harpers Ferry is already a popular destination in spring and summer for those who love hiking, whitewater rafting, kayaking, and river tubing. But it’s even more beautiful and pleasant in the fall when the air is crisp and the leaves are turning gold.

If you go in the afternoon, you’ll notice the sunlight that seems to shine on the town in the most perfect angle, creating the most stunning reflection on the rocky waters.

Harpers Ferry is an easy day trip if you’re from Washington D.C. and northern Virginia as it’s only about an hour or so drive.

Here’s what I love about the place:

The spectacular view at sunset

You can hike on the Appalachian Trail, which you could do for weeks or months, or you can just hike up the Maryland Heights Trail to the overlook and be rewarded with a stunning view of the town and rivers below. It’s about 4.5 miles round trip and takes about 3-4 hours. 

I’m not a hiker and was completely exhausted after we came down, but I’m glad I did it. Obviously, it was harder on the way up, but the view was absolutely stunning I forgot I was tired!

I really recommend staying for the sunset to catch that picture perfect moment when the glowing horizon wraps around the little town and the two rivers. Make sure you bring a GPS as the trail is not well marked. Also bring a flashlight – you will need it on your way down if you’re there for the sunset. 

John Brown Museum

This beautiful little town has a painful past. I happened to be there on the 163th anniversary of abolitionist John Brown’s raid on Harpers Ferry in October 1859. Brown and a group of 21 men invaded Harpers Ferry and took over the federal armory in an attempt to free slaves. They failed and the men were either killed in the fight or subsequently executed. It was considered one of the main incidents that led to the Civil War after Abraham Lincoln was elected president. 

The museum is by no means high tech but tells a good story of the town and the fateful days and months after the raid.

The historic town

I enjoyed walking around the streets that have been restored to when it was in the past with all kinds of businesses like a clothing store and a dry goods store. This living museum reminds me of Colonial Williamsburg but on a much smaller scale. You’ll get to see what the buildings and shops looked like way back when. 

A few tips

You can park along Potomac Street and at the train station, but a parking spot could be hard to find if you go there on the weekend. So go early or late. You can park at the main parking lot, but it’s further away and you need to take a shuttle. Or you can park along Washington Street on the way to the next town called Bolivar and walk down to the rivers. 

Have fun in Harpers Ferry!

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Food and art are a big part of joie de vivre, so why not pursue them in Paris where enjoyment of life is so immensely appreciated? For both classes, experience is not required, just a few hours to learn something new and have fun! 

Croissant and Breakfast Pastries Class

As a pastry lover, I was extremely happy to get to take my very first pastry class in Paris. Croissants are my favorite breakfast food, so I decided to take a Croissant and Breakfast Pastries class with La Cuisine Paris. The school is situated right on the bank of the Seine River near Hôtel de Ville.

Registering for classes well in advance is highly recommended as they could get booked up fast. 

I registered for the class on the school’s website once I got the dates for my trip. The class was three hours and taught in English.

I was there with my mom, and we learned all the steps and techniques involved in making flaky croissants, Pain au Chocolat, and Pain au Raisin. As making croissants takes more than 6 hours, the dough we used in class had been prepared in advance. We got to make the dough but didn’t have to wait for it to rise! After the class, we got to eat these delicious pastries we’d just made. 

The school has many other classes, so check it out! On my next trip to Paris, I’m going to try their Baguettes and ‘Boulangerie’ class.

Drawing class

I was looking for things to do in Paris and found this organization – WICE – that offers all kinds of courses in art, culture, language, and writing. Classes are taught in English, but membership is required. If you’re in Paris for only a short period of time, they have a 3-month rate at 25 euros.

The drawing class I was taking was some kind of an on-location urban sketching class. I’m really bad at drawing, but I do it as a way to relax, and this class was perfect for me. 

Our class met at the Louvre in the evening when there were not a lot of people and we could sit in front of a piece of art for a long period of time without being interrupted. The Louvre was really peaceful this time of day and I could wander around without running into the crowds. 

I live in Virginia, and so I was surprised to learn the teacher was from Virginia where she taught drawing at a university. What a small world! 

The class was fun, and I learned a few techniques, like when she asked us to draw without looking at the drawing pad. We basically just looked at what we were drawing and let our eyes guide us so we drew what we saw and not what we thought we saw! 

When I go back to Paris, I would definitely try other classes like photography.

Have fun in Paris, you all!

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I later read up on the Czech Republic’s history, and it’s hard to believe this stunning beauty has been through countless wars and occupations, including the Nazi’s and the Soviet Union’s. Yet it’s one of the best-preserved cities in Europe and remains utterly beautiful.

If you’re going to be in the city for only a few days, I suggest you take a private tour to maximize your time and help you understand the city better, especially from the locals’ perspective. We did a private walk called Communism and 1989 in Czechoslovakia with Prague Walker and were totally happy with our guide. 

Prague is a painting, a true work of art, and I would go back in a heartbeat. But before then, here are 7 things I thoroughly enjoyed and would highly recommend for anyone:

Charles Bridge

I’ve been to many beautiful bridges in Europe, but my number one favorite has to be Charles Bridge, the city’s oldest bridge built by King Charles IV in the 14^th century to replace another bridge that was severely damaged by floods. 

I still remember how in awe I was when I saw it for the first time. Flanked by the mythical Lesser Town Bridge Towers and Old Town Bridge Tower on each end, the cobblestoned bridge is adorned by ornate statues of saints that were added between 1683 and 1928.

It was beautiful during the day but utterly stunning at night. During my trip, I went back several times because I couldn’t get enough of it. Expect a lot of people – everyone wants a glimpse of this master piece.

Old Town Square

In my humble opinion, Prague’s old town square is one of the most charming in Europe. Maybe because I love Gothic architecture with spires and everything, but who can resist the sky-piercing Church of Our Lady Before Tyn, which has been the main church in this area since the 14^th century, or the massive, quaint Old Town Hall Tower, which also dates back to the 14^th century? 

One of the main missions for me in Prague was to see Tyn Church with my own eyes, and I got the best view of the church from the top of Old Town Hall Tower. The tower also offers the most amazing view of the old town, its terracotta roofs, and Prague Castle in distance. 

Also standing tall in the square is the memorial to Jan Hus, a religious reformer who fought both the Catholic Church and the Austrian Habsburg for Czech’s freedom from foreign oppressors.

Lunch at Teresa U Prince

If you can have only one meal in Prague, let it be at Hotel U Prince’s rooftop restaurant. Just the view of the Old Town will fill you up. It’s true you can get the best view of the city from the Old Town Hall tower, but you won’t see the tower itself. At this restaurant, you can see everything. If you’re looking for the best Instagram spot in the city, this is it.

A reservation is highly recommended. As for the food, I had creamy seafood pasta and loved it.    

Strahov Monastery

Besides the gorgeous architecture, Prague has something else up its sleeve. Simply walking up the hill to Strahov Monastery and you’ll be greeted with the fresh air and breathtaking view of the entire city. I was surprised to see the vineyard and a restaurant overlooking the city!

Built in the 12^th century, the complex has a church, a gorgeous library that houses several manuscripts from the Middle Ages, the Museum of Miniatures, and a brewery where they brew beer with the same method monks have done for centuries. 

Prague Castle 

In keeping up with the medieval theme, I simply love the architecture of the buildings in this castle complex built in the 9^th century. The Old Royal Palace’s Vladislav Hall definitely transports you back to the times of the Bohemian princes and kings who lived there until the 16^th century. The palace is still in use today as the President’s office and for ceremonial state events. 

Museum of Communism

We did a private walk with a tour guide about communism in the country, and one of the stops was Museum of Communism where life under the communist regime is on full display. It’s not exactly a high-tech museum but tells a good story of the dream, reality, and nightmare of communism. Czech was a nation in turmoil even before being forced to accept the Nazi’s occupation as a result of the Munich Agreement (or to the locals – the Munich Betrayal by the Great Britain, France, and Italy). They were hoping for a better day under communism.

What’s good on paper may not match reality, and in this case, it did not. From total elimination of private businesses to the secret police and violent crackdowns on protesters, their dreams were dashed. It wasn’t until the Velvet Revolution in 1989 when they were finally free.

The best part of the entire museum for me was when I walked to the bathrooms and saw the statues of Lenin and Stalin in front of the doors, summing up exactly how the Czechs feel about the two Soviet leaders.

Try local food

For food lovers, traveling and eating go hand in hand, and it’s no exception in Prague. We enjoyed local cheese, soup, stew, fish, steak, schnitzel, pork knuckles, dumplings, and the grilled sweet pastry called Trdelnik. – is best when it’s hot, so get one that’s just been made on the grill! Besides Teresa U Prince restaurant, I highly recommend Kampa Park right on the river with a view of Charles Bridge. It was recommended to us by the hotel staff we stayed at and the food was delicious.

Talking about hotels, if you love hotels with old world charms and great views, the Luxury Family Hotel Royal Palace is a good option. It’s situated on the historical part of town and has a view of the Prague Castle and its Wallenstein gardens! 

Have fun in Prague! You’re gonna love it!

The post Travel Guide: 7 Awesome Things to Do in Prague  appeared first on Eat. Love. Vacation.

The Loire Valley is only about 2 hours by train from Paris, making it a great destination for those flying in and out of the French capital.

For a first-time visitor without a car, the lovely town of Amboise is a good base for exploring this beautiful area of France. It’s home to Château d’Amboise, a favorite royal residence of several French kings, including Francis I, the Renaissance king who invited Leonardo da Vinci to work and live in a château nearby. The town is also the final resting place of the Italian artist.

You can take a train from Paris and stay at a hotel in town. Then take a minivan tour to explore all the famous châteaux like Chambord, Chenonceau, Blois, Chaumont, and Cheverny.

There are several hotels in town, but my favorite is Le Clos d’Amboise, which I blogged about here.

If you only have a few days in the area, here’s the itinerary I would recommend:

Day 1: the town of Amboise

Explore the town to get the lay of the land. You’ll notice some beautiful half-timbered houses dating back to the Middle Ages. Try to be there either on a Friday or a Sunday as they are market days so you can try some local delicacies and shop local products. To me, local markets are a great way to get to know the town and its people. We got there on Sunday, which was the bigger market day of the two.

Then check out Château d’Amboise, a medieval stronghold-turned royal residence on the bank of the Loire River. It was originally built by a noble family but was later confiscated by the Crown and was built upon and renovated extensively. Several French kings were either born, raised, or lived there, including Henry II and his wife Catherine de Medici.

Day 2: Chenonceau, Chambord, and Cheverny

Explore other châteaux in the area! To get to these sites, it’s most convenient to take a minivan tour which should be booked in advance. I used a tour company called Acco-Dispo, and they took us to three marvelous châteaux: Chenonceau, Chambord, and Cheverny. The guide/driver talked about the history of the châteaux in the vehicle, and when we got to the châteaux, we explored them on our own.

Chenonceau

Spanning the Cher River, Chenonceau is an elegant and romantic château with an interesting past. During the reign of King Henri II, the king gave Chenonceau to his beloved mistress Diane de Poitiers, a beautiful widow and his mentor. Diane loved Chenonceau and helped transform it into a Renaissance gem. She ordered the construction of the arched bridge and gallery over the river, but only the bridge was built. Henri was married to Catherine de Medici but was madly in love with Diane who accompanied him everywhere, causing much heartache to his wife who really loved him despite the arranged marriage. 

When the king suddenly passed away in a jousting accident, Catherine became regent as her son was too young to rule. She kicked Diane out of Chenonceau, took over the château, and put her own portrait in Diane’s bedroom.

The queen mother proceeded with the bridge project Diane had started and added two galleries above it. The two gardens that bear their names symbolizing this royal rivalry are still on display today. I had been reading about Catherine de Medici, and a visit to Chenonceau was the highlight of my trip.

Chenonceau is also a good place to stop for lunch as it has a restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating. 

Chambord

Château de Chambord, by contrast, is massive and majestic. The biggest château in the Loire Valley, Chambord was built as a hunting lodge for Francis I, Catherine de Medici’s father-in-law. The architectural style is French Renaissance, and it was said that Leonardo da Vinci influenced the design. The construction was not completed until the reign of Louise XIV, the Sun King who built Versailles.

Compared to Chenonceau, Chambord lacks warmth and feels more like a museum. That’s may be because of its size and the fact that it was not designed to be a permanent residence. But I enjoyed learning about the period furniture on display, including the royal toilet, which is a beautiful wooden chair with a built-in porcelain bowl.

Cheverny

Château de Cheverny feels more intimate and warm because of the luxurious interior and the fact that the family who owns the château still lives there. It has been in the Hurault family for six centuries and although it was lost to the Crown at one point, Henri II gave the château to Diane de Poitiers, who sold it back to the Hurault family because she preferred the nearby Chenonceau.

Besides its elegantly furnished rooms, the classically French château is famous for the over one hundred hunting hounds. The dogs can be seen all day long during your visit, but the feeding is at 11:30 a.m. Check out the feeding schedule here, but possibly due to COVID, they’re not currently being fed publicly as of this writing.

In 1922, Cheverny was one of the private châteaux to open its doors to the public. About half of the château is close to the public as it’s the private residence of the family.

Day 3: Château du Clos Lucé

Visit Château du Clos Lucé, Leonardo da Vinci’s final home before he passed away. Da Vinci was a guest of Francis I who named the Italian Renaissance master the king’s painter, architect, and engineer. The château had been a summer royal residence for French kings, and Francis spent a lot of time at this Gothic-style castle with his family when he was young. When the famed 64-year-old artist came to France, he brought with him what would become the most famous painting in the world, the Mona Lisa.

Da Vinci spent the last three years of his life at the château working on projects for the king. He died in his room there and was buried at St. Florentine on the ground of the Château d’Amboise. But centuries later the church was destroyed during the French Revolution, so his remains were transferred to St. Hubert Chapel on the grounds of Château d’Amboise.

Have fun exploring the Loire Valley! Let me know how you like it.

The post Travel Guide: Exploring France’s Loire Valley in 3 Days appeared first on Eat. Love. Vacation.

I found this hotel when I was looking for a place to stay in Amboise on my trip to explore the Loire Valley with my mom, which I will write about in my next blog. If you think about exploring the Loire Valley and its many châteaux, Amboise is a perfect base.

Joie de vivre in a French mansion

Situated in the royal town of Amboise where French king Francis I had his royal residence, Château d’ Amboise, this 17^th century house was converted into a hotel in 2003 and was completely renovated in 2011.

The first thing that caught my eye when I first saw the pictures of the hotel was its French country mansion aesthetic. The cream-colored main building has that typical French gray roof and shuttered windows and doors. Boxwoods line the building and courtyard adjacent to a hidden swimming pool. Cute tables and chairs in the lawn are perfect for dining alfresco throughout the day. It’s beautiful during daytime, but with evening lights, it’s stunning. Photos don’t do it justice.

But the highlight of the hotel is inside. The elegant wall paneling, gilded mirrors, lamps, crystal chandeliers, and ornate furniture are hallmarks of the French style décor while the colorful velvet chairs give it a modern twist. The multiple drawing rooms where guests can hang out provide additional space and remind me of a château. The common area is inviting, sophisticated, yet comfortable. 

The hotel also has a restaurant, which comes in handy when you’re out sightseeing all day and just want to relax at the hotel with a good meal. We were there in March, so we had our meals indoors as it was still a bit chilly. A breakfast buffet was served in the beautiful drawing rooms, which were even lovelier in the morning light. 

The room

Unlike typical hotel rooms in Europe, our room was quite spacious. Besides the comfortable bed, the room had a sitting area and a little mini bar where we could make coffee or tea. But my favorite part was the walk-in closet. The little walled off area at the far end of the room gave me an idea of one day creating an easy walk-in closet in my bedroom. 

How to get there

There are several daily trains from Paris to Amboise. Some are direct and some with connection. A direct train takes only 1 hour and 40 minutes. An indirect one takes about 2 hours.  The Amboise train station is small, so there may not be a taxi waiting around. It’s best to ask the hotel to arrange a taxi for you or you can also walk. It’s a 20-minute walk across the Loire River to the hotel. 

A nice touch

We got there early, and while we were waiting for our room to be ready, they served us tea and delicious croissants to help us relax while waiting. We really appreciated this level of hospitality. All in all, we had a great stay and can’t wait to go back! 

The post Where to stay in the Loire Valley: Le Clos d’Amboise appeared first on Eat. Love. Vacation.

For coffee lovers, a trip to Vienna is a must as it’s been crowned the Coffee Capital of the World. Indeed, when I was in Vienna for the first time, I was happy to see cafés and coffeehouses at every corner. I was particularly impressed with two traditional Viennese coffeehouses, Café Central and Café Spearl, and would go back over and over just to hang out. These two coffeehouses are famous for a reason.

Café Central has been home to some of Vienna’s greatest writers and philosophers since 1876. Café Spearl is even older and has an illustrious past. It’s been around since 1880, boasting regulars such as the Archdukes Josef Ferdinand and Karl Ferdinand and artists who founded the modern art movement in Austria.

What I love about these two places

Besides the taste of the coffee I enjoy, what I particularly love about these coffeehouses is the way they look and feel. They have an air of joie de vivre mixed with intellectual curiosity and nostalgia. Big rooms, wooden panels, big chandeliers, velvet seating are some of the hallmarks of traditional Viennese coffeehouses and are copied in many cities in Europe. 

They also provide newspapers and billiard tables for guests to enjoy. I later learned that billiard tables at coffeehouses in the past served as a source of additional income for the coffeehouse owners as people rarely played for pleasure.

To order the “Viennese coffee” that I love is more complicated. I can get either Einspänner (a shot of espresso with whipped cream), or Kapuziner (double shots of espresso with whipped cream, or Franziskaner (a shot of espresso with milk and whipped cream). I like the last one the best.

Even though Vienna is not the birthplace of coffeehouses – the first ones were found in Mecca as early as the 12^th century – the Viennese took their coffee seriously and have shown the world how to enjoy it. As writer and coffeehouse resident Hans Weigel put it, coffee has become “part of the people’s soul.”

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