Mushrooms are not only delicious, they’re also powerful allies for your health, a key part of healthy soil ecosystems, and surprisingly fun and easy to grow once you know the secrets.

Visit COREgardening.com for full details on this workshop, plus a complete list of our upcoming in-person events and agricultural programs for the 2025 growing season!

Gain Valuable Skill at This COREgardening Workshop

Ready to grow and harvest your own mushrooms? They can be cultivated right in your backyard, or even on a kitchen counter!

Our mushroom cultivation workshop is one of COREgardening’s most popular programs and provides you with everything you need to successfully grow gourmet and medicinal mushrooms indoors or outdoors. Don’t wait, register today to reserve your spot!

In this Mushroom Cultivation Workshop, you’ll learn:

• Precautions and safety basics for identifying, handling, and storing gourmet mushrooms
• Simple techniques for growing mushrooms both indoors and outdoors
• How to clone a mushroom and use it to produce your own mushrooms
• Methods for cultivating specific varieties of mushrooms in garden beds
• My favorite process to inoculate hardwood logs with gourmet mushroom spawn

You’ll discover practical, easy-to-master methods that can supply you, and your friends and family with more fresh, delicious mushrooms than you can imagine!

Bonus: Every participant will take home several mushroom cultures, including a DIY Fruiting kit and a fully inoculated mushroom log featuring varieties like Wine Cap, Oyster, and Shiitake mushrooms.

You’ll also learn how to scale up your production if you dream of growing mushrooms in bulk for greater self-reliance, food security, or even for a side business!

Can’t Make It in Person? Take the Online Course!

If you can’t attend the live workshop, you can still learn at your own pace through COREgardening’s online mushroom cultivation course.

You’ll receive the same knowledge via a user-friendly platform featuring Keynote presentations, videos, resource lists, and links to the exact mushroom cultivation supplies I use and recommend.

Explore Even More at COREgardening!

Beyond mushroom cultivation, COREgardening offers a wide range of opportunities to deepen your organic gardening and self-sufficiency expertise:

• One-on-one consultations (Phone or Zoom)
• Private customized workshops
• Farm Stays where you can visit and experience life on the farm while learning hands-on skills like organic gardening, beekeeping, vermiculture, orchard care, food preservation, composting, and more!

Visit COREgardening.com to see all the exciting opportunities we have planned for 2025. We can’t wait to grow with you!.

A big part of that success is location and taking advantage of the various micro-climates that exist on my property even if the temperature variations, southern exposures, and favorable positions are only slightly better than other spots in the garden.

The payoff comes the following season when over wintered herb plants show their full potential and yield results that you don’t get from herbs that are grown as annuals. Over wintered plants grow larger, bushier, and often produce flowers. You’ll also get considerable leaf production that can quickly stock your herbal pantry.

Here’s a look at some common herbs from my garden that show what a difference it can make to shelter the plants through the winter and into additional seasons of growth:

Rosemary isn’t very hardy in my region, but when it survives the winter it will take on a tree-like appearance and become a very ornamental evergreen in addition to being a great culinary herb. It will also produce a profusion of attractive pale blue flowers that many gardeners have never seen in the garden.

Oregano is a reliable winter survivor here in Central Pennsylvania and will spread nicely into a rounded mound of leaf growth to season pasta sauces and other recipes in the kitchen. During mid-summer the plant will be covered with tiny white flowers that bees and other pollinating insects can’t resist. The leaves are easily dried and stored to keep your homegrown oregano on hand.

Thyme is a common and popular herb plant and this photo is an example of what a single plant can grow into within the space of a few years. It is a great ground cover that will offer a splash of color from the flowers that will completely cover the plants early each spring. This is a carefree herb that you can count on to over winter without fail.

Sage is hardier and more reliable than Rosemary but still not a guarantee to make it through a harsh winter on a consistent basis. But when it does survive you’ll wind up with enormous plants, plenty of leaves for cooking with, and a display of sage flowers. With all these leaves you’ll need to find new uses for sage such as including this herb in omelets, grits, and even breads for a unique flavor experience.

Bay Laurel is another one of my favorite over wintered herbs, but in this case you will have to bring it indoors for the winter if you want it to survive in cold weather regions. The reward will be a tree that will need to be pruned annually just to maintain it at a manageable size that can be moved from house to patio as the seasons change. The prunings will provide you with more bay leaves than you can use in the kitchen and save money on those expensive little jars sold at the market!

I treat Winter Lettuce similar to the way that I grow garlic, it’s planted in late fall and allowed to over winter as a juvenile plant in order to get a huge jump on the spring growing season. It doesn’t require much space in the fall garden as the seed is sown thickly and the plants are crowded together in a garden bed or cold frame over the winter.

Winter Lettuce is Actually Sown during the Fall Months

These types of lettuce varieties are super hardy, and because the plants are young and small they are able to easily endure even bitterly cold winters here in Central Pennsylvania. I usually broadcast the seed thickly over a four by four foot area during October or November.

The seed will germinate and begin growing during the fall but will not attain any significant size going into the winter months. Once the ground begins to freeze I will place a cold frame over the patch to offer a little protection to the plants. But more commonly Winter Lettuce plants are covered with a light layer of straw for protection, or a snow cover would also serve the same purpose of providing insulation and to deflect harsh winds. Floating row covers could be another good option.

Hardy as Fall Planted Garlic and Just as Care-Free to Cultivate

That is all the care that these hardy plants require and it is possible that some types could survive the winters out in the open with no protection at all. These are heading lettuce varieties and by March they will begin to look the part as they send out a spurt of growth during late winter. Again just like the fall planted garlic there will be noticeable leaf gain when most other plants are still enjoying their winter slumber.

This is the time when the gardener really appreciates Winter Lettuce because the plants are so lush and more vibrant than any lettuce plants you could have started indoors. They are also perfectly acclimated to the outdoor environment since that is all they’ve known and there is no need for coddling the plants or for hardening them off as you would plants that were started inside or under lights.

Spring Thinning and Transplanting Winter Lettuce

Mid-March is the time that I usually thin and transplant the patch of Winter Lettuce, and since I use raised garden beds I can conveniently transplant without the need for tilling or working the garden beds in advance. I can also get into the garden earlier than most gardeners and don’t need the soil to dry out at all, which is another bonus that comes in handy when it’s time to transplant Winter Lettuce.

Simply dig down and loosen a five by five inch square of plants, carry to the new growing place, and gently separate the plants for replanting. You should find nice root growth on healthy plants with six or more true leaves. Set the transplants at the same depth that they were growing before and lightly firm them into the ground. Then if desired you can mulch around the Winter Lettuce transplants with shredded leaves or chopped straw to restrict weed growth and conserve moisture.

Don’t Overlook Spring Care, Harvesting, and Seed Saving

Because of the weather conditions during late winter and early spring I seldom notice any transplant shock and the plants should recover quickly from being moved and resume their rapid growth. I usually transplant before a rain but otherwise you may need to irrigate to help the plants adjust to their new setting.

After transplanting it will only be a matter of a few weeks until the Winter Lettuce will be displaying nicely formed heads that can be harvested or left a little longer to reach full maturity. Leave a few heads until summer and the plants will produce seed to use for next fall’s planting and the cycle will continue.

Starting and Locating Varieties of Winter Lettuce

If you’d like to grow Winter Lettuce in your own garden start by searching for lettuce varieties that are bred for this purpose and that are hardy enough to survive winters without much care or protection. When I lived on the farm there was a no name “winter lettuce” that we planted under straw and saved seed for during the summer. I don’t have that seed anymore but have been able to locate varieties such as; Landi’s Winter, Maule’s Philadelphia, Eva Snader’s Brown Winter, and Red Tinged Winter Lettuce that I am putting to the same purpose as that proven generic winter lettuce that I used to grow.

It may require a bit of trial and error to determine the timing and varieties of Winter Lettuce that will grow best for your growing region but it is worth the effort. Fall sown lettuce plants that enter into springtime are so healthy, vibrant, and in sync with the changing seasons that I believe they will outperform greenhouse produced transplants and provide an early harvest of gorgeous heads of homegrown lettuce.

Today I will share my experiences with a new addition to the FLEX line of equipment; the Chipper Shredder attachment. This is one of the attachments that I was the most excited about and I waited patiently until this past fall when the FLEX Chipper Shredder was released along with the new FLEX Log Splitter attachment.

The Latest FLEX Attachments Added to the Line Up

My initial review and video featured the FLEX System Power Base, Wide-Area Mower, and the Snow Thrower. Since then I added the FLEX Power Washer and Leaf Blower attachments to use in the yard and around the house. Every attachment has performed perfectly and I have been very pleased with the FLEX concept and performance that this Troy-Bilt System delivers.

Before I jump into the new Chipper Shredder it would be a good idea to provide an update on the other attachments that I’ve had a chance to use for two full seasons. The FLEX Wide Area Mower continues to do a great job on the lawn and hasn’t had any service issues. We only had one significant snow fall each of the past two winters but I was very impressed with the way the FLEX Snow Thrower handled them. This machine is a “thrower” and in each case I quickly cleared about two feet of snowfall from my driveway and two of my neighbor’s drives!

Working Smarter and Faster with the FLEX System of Equipment

One thing that I continue to appreciate about the FLEX System is that power base is in operation during each season so you never experience the type of difficult start-ups that can occur with equipment that has been sitting around for months and just doesn’t want to fire right up! There’s also a decreased need for using fuel stabilizers, or winterization, and I no longer have to waste gasoline by running engines dry at the end of the season.

The FLEX Power Washer made cleaning the deck so much faster and easier last spring and is so convenient that I don’t hesitate to break it out for whatever odd cleaning job that could use a powerful blast of water behind it. I debated over purchasing the FLEX Leaf Blower because I have handheld leaf blowers, but I was so glad that I did because I came to realize how much of a difference having wheels, propulsion, a directional blower, and greater power could make when moving mountains of leaves!

The Troy-Bilt FLEX Chipper Shredder Attachment

And that brings us back to my review of the Troy-Bilt FLEX Chipper Shredder attachment. I’ll avoid any suspense and begin by saying that I love the new attachment and that it has worked even better than I anticipated. This is the first chipper shredder that I have owned and I was initially concerned about the size and maneuverability of the unit, but the FLEX Power Base easily transports the chipper into place and then powers its operation.

The connection is as simple as any other FLEX attachment; it clicks right into place and is ready for action. Starting the engine requires a slower and stronger tug of the cord compared to the other attachments in order to get all of the internals of the chipper spinning, but other than that startup was a breeze. From there the drive of the power base provides all the muscle needed to move the FLEX Chipper Shredder wherever you want to use it.

FLEX Chipper Shredder Layout and Specs

The layout is similar to stand-alone chipper shredder units; with a large hopper that will accept leaves, twigs, and yard debris. In addition there’s also a side chute with a two inch chipping capacity. A 10:1 debris reduction ratio makes the five bushel collection bag seem even more spacious and reduces time spent emptying and reconnecting the bag!

This is by far the tallest and heaviest attachment that I have used with the Flex System but as I mentioned earlier, the FLEX Power Base has no difficulty driving and powering the unit. When moving the FLEX Chipper Shredder around I would simply tilt back on the handle bars slightly to ensure ground clearance on the front end and then allow the power base do all the work of actually moving the attachment.

Getting Down to Work with the New Chipper Shredder

I had plenty of ideas for ways that I could use the FLEX Chipper Shredder around the garden and it hasn’t failed at any of them. Most impressively, my process for gathering leaves to make compost has become much more efficient. I used to use rakes, leaf blowers, and a handheld leaf vacuum to gather, shred, and move the leaves to my compost bins, but now the work goes much faster with the chipper/shredder.

The hopper of the FLEX Chipper Shredder never stuttered as I added pile after pile of fallen leaves into it, and the huge collection bag always filled completely and never clogged as the shredded leaves filled it to the brim! I was so happy to say goodbye to the leaf blower jams, and forget the misery of that small capacity bag that seemed to fill as soon as I started sucking leaves into it. The process is so much smoother and easier now with the Flex shredder attachment.

Convenience, Versatility, and Functionality are the Norms for FLEX

Now I have nicely shredded leaves to cover garden beds over the winter, to insulate the garlic patch, mulch individual plants, and to save for making compost in the spring. I’ve also been chipping branches to make my own wood chips. The smaller stuff goes right in the hopper and larger diameter branches go straight into the dedicated chipping chute. Either way it’s a cinch to chip, collect in the bag, and then move to any spot where mulching is needed.

I can’t wait to see what the future holds for new FLEX attachments. It seems like my favorite Flex attachment changes with the seasons, and that’s probably exactly the way that Troy-Bilt designed the FLEX system so that it can be appreciated and utilized all twelve months out of the year!

Disclosure: I am a member of Troy-Bilt’s Saturday6 Program which provides compensation to me, and in the case of product reviews, tools or equipment are provided to me at no cost for the purpose of providing an evaluation and sharing my honest opinions.

The ingredient list is short and consists of “Yesterday’s News” Kitty Litter (unused and unsoiled of course), Guinea Pig food, distilled water, plastic bags, and some mushroom spawn of varieties such as oyster or shiitake. Sterile conditions are not necessary for success and there is no heating or pasteurization required.

One of the Easiest Ways You’ll Ever Find to Grow Mushrooms at Home

This process is very simple! You place four cups of “Yesterday’s News” Kitty Litter in a clean container and add four cups of distilled or de-chlorinated water. Let sit until all of the water is absorbed by the kitty litter, then mix in one-third cup of Guinea Pig Food and three-fourths cup of mushroom spawn. This mixture is then packed tightly into a plastic bag. Those long slender sleeve type bags work perfectly for this task.

Tamp the media down to compress it and remove as much air as possible, then twist and tie a knot so that you are left with a solid tube of inoculated mushroom growing substrate. Cut four one inch slits in the sides of the bag to allow the spawn to breathe and place the bag in a dark, cool spot.

The Spawn Run and Colonization of Your Mushroom Bags

Then it’s just a matter of time as you wait for the mushroom mycelium to spread throughout the kitty litter substrate. Once everything is fully colonized you will notice the light colored mycelium is visible throughout the mixture of kitty litter and mushroom spawn. As is typical with mushroom spawn, it has to run through and fully consume the nutrients in the growing substrate before fruiting.

You will eventually get budding and see tiny clusters of mushrooms start to pop out in various parts of the bag where they are receiving air from the tiny perforations that were made in the plastic bag. At this point the bag should be in an area where it can receive light, but avoid placing it in direct sunlight or where it could over heat or dry out. A slightly humid location is also good but not critical for success.

Fruiting and Harvesting the Mushrooms in a Matter of Days

At this fruiting stage the mushrooms will grow rapidly and should be ready to harvest within a few days. You can lightly mist the bags with a spray bottle of non-chlorinated water to help the mushroom form but don’t overdo it. Harvest the mushrooms as soon as they reach full size and before they begin to release any spores.

I haven’t tried this yet, but you should be able to let the bags rest for a couple weeks then soak them in water over night to coax a second fruiting out of them. I have some other ideas that I plan to experiment with to keep the spawn going and I will share them if it is successful. Even if this is only a one or two harvest application it will still be worth the effort. The spent bags of mycelium can be composted, broken up and used as a soil amendment, or be fed to earthworms if you have a worm bin.

So if you’ve wanted to try your hand at cultivating mushrooms this is a great way to start the journey. It’s also pretty satisfying as you can go from start to finish in a month or so with just a handful of ingredients and no special equipment!

Even gardeners who are committed to making and using worm castings may find it challenging to produce enough castings to supply all their gardening needs. Fortunately VermisTerra by JL Organics LLC is now supplying earthworm castings and teas that allows everyone access to the great benefits that worms have to offer the soil, and research at Cornell University even shows that earthworm castings can suppress plant disease and regulate nutrients.

Using VermisTerra Earthworm Castings in the Vegetable Garden

VermisTerra offers pure earthworm castings in a dry form that can be mixed with seed starting or potting mixes, be applied as a side dressing around plants in the garden and containers, or be added to growing beds along with or in place of compost and other organic amendments and fertilizers prior to planting. Also in their product lineup is a stabilized compost tea that is diluted in water and then sprayed onto the garden with a sprayer, via watering cans, or through irrigation systems.

The VermisTerra castings seem to have a finer texture than other castings that I have used, and they are very clean, and easy to handle and apply. I used them both as a stand-alone amendment and in combination with other powdered or granular organic fertilizers. As a side dressing I spread the castings around the base of my veggie plants and then scratched it lightly into the surface of the soil layer.

Applying Worm Teas and Custom Fertilizer Combinations

VermisTerra earthworm casting tea is easy to apply, you simply mix it with water and then feed and condition your soil at the same time that you are watering the plants in your garden. Like with the castings, I used the tea separately, as well as in combination with other organic amendments. JL Organics does not recommend adding raw materials directly into your soil as it can cause a burn or nutrient lockout. However in your garden, you can experiment with what works for you. Liquid foliars that I used with the casting tea included; seaweed, fish emulsion, and even powered water-soluble organic fertilizers. Once mixed with water, it is best to use the tea mix within a couple of hours.

VermisTerra tea differs from compost tea because it will not become anaerobic. Also, buying this pre-made tea can save time over brewing your own compost tea and maintain a quality, consistency, and high standard. The casting tea is a concentrate of dormant microbes that is diluted at a general rate of three ounces per gallon of water. Up to six ounces per gallon is recommended for fruits and vegetables. VermisTerra is not chemical fertilizer so the tea doesn’t burn even when applied during blooming and fruiting. The castings are odorless, and along with the tea, are loaded with beneficial bacteria and fungi, which are important for optimum soil health, resulting in improved plant health and growth.

Seeing the Results of VermisTerra Products in the Garden

A few crops that I focused on with the application of the castings and tea in my garden this past season were eggplants, ginger, and peppers; and the results were great. I did not do any type of control and can’t claim that the results were due solely to the castings and tea, but this was the best crop of eggplants that I have ever seen in terms of the size and health of the plants and the fruit production from the peppers was incredible as well.

Next season I’m planning to conduct my own backyard trials with controls to better isolate the results. But in the meantime I’ll trust the experience that I had with the crops in last summer’s garden and will continue using the VermisTerra products. For more scientific results here is a link to a recent NPR article that explored some of the benefits of worm castings; The Power of Worm Poop.

Ideas and Strategies for Utilizing Worm Castings

I’ve read from other reports that earthworm castings are great for improving seed germination and for helping to promote the health of young seedlings. Castings can be applied at any time during the growth cycle without the risk of burning young plants or roots. And a little does go a long way, making the use very economical. Heavy feeders and specific crops such as ginger and turmeric that respond well to increased levels of soil microbes will also especially benefit from the application of worm castings.

My personal tips and recommendations include using distilled, well, spring, or rainwater when mixing up a batch of the tea. It just seems intuitive to avoid mixing the tea in treated water that contains chemicals like chlorine, which are intended to kill microorganisms, since that is a major component and aspect of using worm castings in the first place. I always use water from my pond or rain barrels to dilute and apply materials that contain living biology of any type.

More Tips for Using Worm Castings in the Garden

When applying compost or worm teas I make it a point to spread the finished tea over the plant foliage as well as the soil since I have heard from one soil scientist that the microbes provide benefits and protection above ground to the plant’s leaf matter in addition to working within the soil itself.

In the case of worm castings I prefer to apply them just before or after a light rain if possible in order to help the organisms become established without drying out too quickly. I also apply teas and castings during the early morning hours or in the evening when temperatures are milder. The VermisTerra products work great on houseplants and patio plants in containers also. These environments may be in even more need for the increased soil microorganisms that castings and teas provide.

VermisTerra’s Product Quality Standards

The team at VermisTerra takes the extra step of getting certified with the USDA and CDFA. This makes their earthworm castings and nutrient tea certified organic for your farm or garden. And you can be confident that you’re not adding any toxins or heavy metals into your garden. VermisTerra products are also lab tested to ensure they are free of pathogens so your garden receives only beneficial microbes, and not those that will cause disease.

So if you are looking to give your soil, plants, and garden a boost consider trying out VermisTerra’s worm castings or worm teas as a convenient and easy amendment that is natural, safe, and compatible with other organic fertilizers and soil conditioners.

Disclosure: This article is a sponsored post and I have been compensated for trying out the VermisTerra worm castings and teas and then afterward sharing my honest impressions of the products and the results that I saw.

The convergence was held over a span of five days and included, camping, meals, and a host of workshops, forays, and demonstrations covering many aspects of fungi. The event was held at the Harlem Valley Homestead, on over one hundred acres of farmland that plans to become a staging location for similar educational agricultural gatherings in the future.

Speakers at this year’s event included Peter McCoy of Radical Mycology, Olga Tzogas from Smugtown Mushrooms, and Steve Gabriel author of “Farming the Woods.” Also on hand to provide lectures and workshops were Willie Crosby, Mara Fae Penfil, William Padilla-Brown, Fern Katz, and others that made up a talented collection of mycology experts.

There were workshops focused on medicinal mushrooms, how to cultivate cordyceps, mycoremediation, crafts involving fungi, liquid culture techniques, mushroom identification, and aseptic lab construction and operation. Other activities included forays to gather fungi, exercises into reading the forest landscape, collection of mosses, and even opportunities to hike up to the nearby branch of the Appalachian Trail.

Following are some photos taken during the convergence and I’ll have more to share later about specific techniques and information that was presented during the event:

The mornings started off with an amazing display of the sun burning through the mist and fog to reveal the mountains that surrounded us.

The Harlem Valley Homestead is an incredibly beautiful farm with big plans in store and I hope to make it back there soon.

The weather was ideal for camping with warm days, cool nights, and only one day that brought clouds and rain over the area.

In between the peaks and valleys were campsites, the buildings and outdoor spaces that held workshops, and the forests where we spent time foraging.

Here is one of numerous ponds on the property which formerly was a fish farm and also has a nice sized trout stream flowing through it.

Peter McCoy presented several interesting lectures including this one on liquid cultures and the ingenious lid that makes the technique easy and practical.

This workshop covered a mushroom cultivation hack that we learned and used to grow oyster mushrooms in a low tech manner with a just few ingredients.

Steve Gabriel’s session on growing woodland mushrooms for forest health included a fascinating guided walk through the local forest.

Olga from Smugtown Mushrooms was on hand instructing on aseptic lab skills and leading a tour through the farm’s mushroom lab and grow rooms.

John Michelotti of Catskill Fungi shared lots of great info on medicinal mushrooms, extracts, and the benefits of various types of mushrooms.

Just one of many circles that we formed around the farm, early morning, at evening campfires, while feasting on healthy meals, hanging out at tent sites, talking between workshops, or while lending a hand to make sure that the convergence was a success for everyone. It was a great event and I’m looking forward to the next one!

This home-made worm bin is based on a Vermiculture workshop that I attended at the Rodale Institute several years ago and have I have managed to keep a colony of composting worms alive and well ever since then with no losses. By “no losses” I mean that the worm population did not die off or migrate out of the bin.

Achieving Care Free Success with Composting Worms

In addition the bedding has remained in good condition, the worms have multiplied, and the moisture levels have remained consistent without the extremes of drying out or becoming over saturated to the point of leaching liquids. My bin has been relatively care free; all I’ve done is feed the worms.

The only possible issue has been the infiltration of foreign soil organisms such as snails and other tiny creatures. Even this has not created a problem and probably could have been avoided if I had not introduced organic matter and some yard waste from the garden into the bin. On the other hand the diversity could actually be a sign of a healthy bin and nothing has grown out of control at this point.

Creating a Simple Worm Bin out of Recycled Materials

But let me get back to the worm bin itself and share how easy it is for you to make one for yourself. Most of the bins that you find will be made out of plastic or wood, but the material of choice for my bin is Styrofoam. Like the common Styrofoam coolers that you are familiar with, but I recommend recycling the Styrofoam shipping containers that you can find at pet stores. They are larger, sturdy, and used to transport aquarium fish and other critters to the stores.

The thing that makes Styrofoam ideal for shipping aquarium fish also helps create a great environment for worms; it’s the insulating properties! My worms love their Styrofoam bin. How do I know? Well besides them surviving, and multiplying, they never wander off even though my bin has large holes drilled all over it. That is all there is to the bin construction, you simply drill one inch size holes into the sides and bottom the Styrofoam tub.

Adding Bedding and Red Wiggler Worms to the Bin

I’ve come to wonder about the necessity of the holes, and in my next bin I may skip them altogether. Or maybe I’ll just place a single hole at one end of the worm bin just in case there ever is any excess moisture that needs to drain off, even though that hasn’t been the case since I began using this type of bin. I do keep a shallow tray underneath the bin to protect the floor and the bin itself sits on a few one by one wood strips to allow for air circulation.

When I first started this bin I used shredded newspaper that was moistened and a couple handfuls of garden soil. The soil added a bit of biology to an otherwise rather sterile environment and the newspaper made up the bulk of bedding material that the worms live in. Place a few inches of bedding on the bottom of the bin, sprinkle the soil across, and then add the composting worms to the center. Top things off with a few more inches of bedding, put the lid on, and your bin is ready to work.

Feeding the Worms and Basic Maintenance of the Bin

To feed I usually bury a thin layer of kitchen scraps in the bedding to start with. Over time as the bedding is converted into compost and castings I will just place the food on top over a third to half of the bedding surface of the bin. I also cut a piece of heavy cardboard to lay across the top of the bedding/food in the worm bin. The worms love scraps like salad mixes that are beginning to decompose, cantaloupe rinds, and they will even eat paper.

You can use a spray bottle of distilled or spring water to mist the bedding if it shows signs of drying out, but my bin has seemed to maintain enough moisture that I have not needed to mist it on a regular basis. Over time you will see the depth of the bedding rise as the worms convert the food scraps into rich, dark brown, castings. The worm castings are an amazing soil conditioner and plant fertilizer that will find many uses in the garden and I will talk more about that in a future article.