Once in a while, I make something just because of curiosity. Like this backpack that I made a couple of days ago. Perhaps you’re familiar with the general shape, that reminds you of the Kanken bag made by the Swedish company Fjällräven. Or perhaps you recognize the material, that is the Frakta shopping bag by IKEA.

I have several Kanken backpacks, from the mini, original, and big. My son and husband also use them. They’re perfect everyday bag, made from strong materials in many choices of colors. This is not an advertising for Kanken backpacks though, I just really like them. That is why I want to copy it, just to see whether I can.

The Kanken backpack is actually a good candidate for copying. The shape is really simple, this bag is literally consisted of a bunch of rectangles with rounded corners. Only the front piece and the bottom part of front pocket are not rectangles, but still some sort of rectangle on top of wider rectangle.

There are not many layers in the bag. All the stitches can be examined easily from both the right and the wrong sides. And finally, all the measurements are round numbers in metrics.

I put a picture of my Kanken x IKEA backpack in my Instagram yesterday, and was a bit surprised of how many people that liked it. There is also a lot of questions about it especially about the pattern and the specific ways to make this backpack.

There is no pattern and I didn’t make a pattern of the backpack. Since it is all just a bunch of rectangles, I just measured my Kanken bag, drew the measurements on the IKEA bag and added seam allowances. I didn’t cut all pieces at once, just the ones that I was about to sew. Of course this is not the most efficient way of using the materials as I just cut as I went.

One of the most interesting thing to think when sewing something is the order of sewing. Which one goes with which one first, and which one goes on top of another. When I sew a ready made pattern with full instructions, I always love to see how the designer presents the order of sewing. It helps me to think in three dimensional ways, which in turn will help when sewing something without instructions.

The order of sewing this backpack is also quite easy to understand. What’s on the surface of one piece should be stitched first before attaching the piece to another. For instance, you have to stitch the front pocket, zipper, zipper cover, and front strap first to the front piece, and the side pockets to the side piece; before attaching the front piece to the side piece.

I also learned a lot while making this backpack. Like this back straps that I attached differently than the original. I did it because the material for the handle straps and the back straps are different. But then I understood why the Kanken straps are stitched that way and the reason is not just aesthetics.

By making an X shape on the back, the weight of the backpack is also carried by the back piece. While in my backpack, the weight of the backpack is only carried by a couple of small stitches at the top ends of the back straps.

I also duplicated the name and address patch on the inside. For fun, I wrote them and drew the lines by hand. I also cut a circle and topstitch it on the front, like an almost invisible logo patch.

My husband and son tried the backpack on. I think it suits my son better, so I gave him the bag ❤️

I chose these kits from Studio Costura shop and made a couple of lingerie sets:

You can read more in my guest post at Studio Costura blog here!

Disclosure:  The bra kits were sent to me for free. However, all views and opinions expressed are purely my own.

While shopping online, I impulsively bought myself a huge tiger embroidery patch (does it often happen to you too?). It arrived a couple of weeks later, and the patch is just as beautiful as the photo. However I didn’t have any clothing item that would provide enough space for this patch. So I made one!

I used Maisa denim jacket pattern by Named Clothing, a classic button-down denim jacket with collar. This pattern is often recommended for jacket made of recycled denim pants.

The fabrics are from a couple of my husband’s pants that I made in 2013 and 2014. Two pants are just almost enough for the jacket, I had to use some remnant denim for the button facing and hem band.

The tiger patch has heat-activated bond so it can be simply ironed to the back of the jacket. In my experience, the bond is not strong enough and patches often got peeled off the fabric after several wears. To avoid this, I stitched around the patch to strengthen it.

The original pattern doesn’t have side pockets, which felt awkward when I wear the jacket. So I added a couple of pockets, and also shortened the front pockets.

I’m glad I added the side pockets! It’s great when you don’t know what to do with your hands. In these pictures, I wear the jacket with Wyome Boyfriend jeans, also by Named Clothing, that I made four years ago.

• • Pattern is Maisa denim jacket by Named Clothing (PDF), size 36.

These two tees have been in rotation for my daily wear recently. They are easy and comfortable, with enough details to make it more interesting than ordinary store-bought tees.

The pattern is Aeolian tee by Pattern Fantastique. I was very happy with my Terra pants that I started to look at other patterns from the maker. This tee immediately caught my eyes, as it is perfect for the warmer weather at the moment.

The pattern is quite simple and straightforward. It has a boxy shape, with several length options from tee length to ankle length dress. Other interesting details are the back facing and deep hem on sleeves and bottom edge. Although this pattern is drafted for knits, the loose and simple shape allow it to be made in woven fabric by using bias tape instead of neck band. I made a couple of tees in size 8 with cotton knit fabric.

The edges of the back facing are topstitched down with flatlock stich. Or in my case, faux flatlock, which is one of several stitch options in my sewing machine. I also used this stitch around the neckline, sleeve hem, and bottom hem.

I’m not too fond of this faux flatlock stitch though, as it is quite heavy on the fabric. For the green tee, I omitted the back facing and simply used three step zigzag stitches around the neckline and hems. If I make another tee in woven fabric, I will keep the back facing and topstitch it with straight stitch.

Pattern is Aeolian tee by Pattern Fantastique (PDF), size 8. (Can also be bought as a bundle with Aura skirt to make a dress.)

I’m sure you’ve known about the famous Ginger jeans pattern by Closet Case Files, I just realized that I’ve never made it. My usual pattern for jeans is Style Arc Sandra jeans pattern, but it is now too small. I only have one size of this pattern since it is the paper pattern form. A good time to try a new jeans pattern!

The Ginger jeans pattern has two options, view A is low rise with narrow legs and view B is high-waisted with skinny legs. I made view B in size 6. As usual, my alteration is shortening the legs about 14 cm: 7 cm above the knee and 7 cm below the knee.

The fabric is light colored denim with slight stretch.It is a bit thin, so I interfaced the waist and inserted a length of elastic on the back waist. I often did this method to avoid gapping on the back area.

After fitting the pants, I found the placement of the back pockets is way too low for me so I unpicked them and sew them about 2.5 cm higher than suggested. Next time I will also make the pockets slightly smaller.

So far I’m happy with the fit. I’ve been wearing them and they’re comfortable – as comfortable as jeans can be, not joggers pants’ comfortable of course-. I’m sure this is my new favorite jeans pattern!

• Pattern is Ginger Jeans by Closet Case Files (PDF), size 6.

Nowadays I get most of my inspirations and news in the sewing world from Instagram. Like these pants for instance, the news about the pattern launch popped out a few days ago in my feed and I was instantly attracted to the shape.

The Persephone pants by Anna Allen is a pattern for high-waisted pants and shorts, inspired by US Navy sailor pants. I find it very interesting that the pants don’t have side-seams, the front and back are cut from one piece. This must be some magical drafting! Other interesting details are the concealed button fly and front waist in-seam pockets.

I made my pants in size 4 with medium weight denim. For reference I am 4’11” (150 cm) with 26″ waist and 37″ hip.  Naturally there was a lot of shortening alterations that I always do in every pattern. For this pattern, I shortened the legs about 12 cm (5 inches), and shortened the rise about 0.5 cm (1/4″).

The instructions are absolutely brilliant! I always have trouble with pants fly, but the instructions for the button fly is very clear and easy to follow. I’ve never made front waist in-seam pockets before, and it is great to learn something new with this pattern. With no side seams, the pants are relatively quick to make.

The pattern has 12 mm (1/2″) seam allowances. My sewing machine uses metric and it doesn’t have marking for imperial measurements. So I shaved 0.2 mm from all the 12 mm seam allowances. I could have put tape on my sewing machine to mark the seam allowance but I prefer to have 1 cm (3/8″) or 1.5 cm(5/8″) on all my sewing patterns.

Here’s the button fly! The buttons are metal button and they came with special strong thread to sew them. You can also see the clever front waist in-seam pockets. All topstitchings are done with #20 rust-coloured denim thread.

The fit is great with no alterations. There is quite a wedgie on the back part though, but I think they still look okay?

• Pattern for pants is Persephone pants by Anna Allen (PDF), size 4.
• Pattern for top is self-drafted.

I had been wanting to make the Lempi button dress by Named patterns for sometime, but hadn’t found the perfect fabric and occasion. My son Sidra was going to graduate from junior high school and I thought it would be a great reason to finally make this dress!

This is a midi-length button down dress with self fabric belt to cinch the waist. All the details are simple, and that’s what attracted me to this pattern. With the right fabric, I think it can also be worn as a spring coat.

I made mine in size 36, one size bigger than I used to wear. Since I’ve started working out regularly for the last 6 months, my weight and measurements have gone up. I’m very happy with these changes but none of my dresses fit anymore! More reason to sew new dresses.

My alterations are shortening the bodice 2.5 cm, the hip about 2 cm, and the hem 5 cm. It’s a lot of shortening alterations since the pattern is drafted for the height 172 cm while I’m only 150 cm. All these alterations have worked well, everything sit nicely and the length is just right.

This is actually a style that I’ve never worn and turned out that I really like it. I think the shape and color looks rather authoritarian, which fits the occasion: a Japanese school graduation day (I have lots of mixed feeling about the education system).

And here’s some more detail shots of the dress.

The first day and last day of Junior High School, Sidra has grown a lot! The school uniform has been worn for three years, the pants have been lengthened several times. The right photo was taken after we got back from the graduation ceremony. All the buttons on his jackets are gone because he has given them to the girls at school.

It’s a cute custom on graduation day. Girls would ask the boy that she likes for one of his button, especially the second button as it’s closest to the heart. Sometimes the boy would give his second button to a girl that he likes. Sidra is a friendly boy though, so he just likes the excitement of giving away all his buttons to the girls.

• Pattern is Lempi button down dress by Named patterns (PDF), size 36.

At first sight, it is a pattern classic pleated pants. But the more I look at it, the more I understand the great shape of this pattern. The legs are wide with almost a cocoon shape. These pants are slouchy but not too exaggerated. The pants are supposed to wear with the waistband sits lower at the front and higher at the back. If you choose a size down, these pants become high-waisted like a 50’s style pants.

I made mine mid-rise waisted in size 8. I suddenly had the urge to have a green pants so I bought 2 meters of green cotton twill.

The drafting and instructions are very well-done! I especially like the instructions for installing the front pockets and waistband. The result is very neat and minimizing bulks.  There are options for back pockets and cuffed or hemmed legs. The only alteration I made was shortening the legs about 7 cm (my height is 4’11” / 150 cm).

I didn’t think that I’d like the finished result so much. The shape is great and the pants are so comfortable!

• Pattern is Terra pants by Pattern Fantastique, size 8.

Once in a while, I found a pattern that fit almost everything that I want and it is always a great day when it happened!

This time it is a panty pattern by Merckwaerdigh called ‘Waistband’. It is a pattern for high-waisted panty with scalloped stretch lace around the waist and back leg. I have had this pattern for a while about never thought too much of it.

This is the first version of the panty in size XS. I was surprised that it actually looks good when worn. However, the waistband is too high-waisted for me because I’m petite, but I imagine it would be perfect for much taller person.

I shortened the waistband piece for the next version, then had the idea of making the panty in mesh fabric. Instead of scalloped lace edges, the mesh fabric is folded to create self-finished edges. Then I made four of them!

The pink and red ones have higher waistband than the yellow and green. The folded mesh edges are very comfortable on the back side and don’t show visible panty lines under clothing. I decided that I like the height of the waistband around 1 cm above my belly button. Too high it will roll down, and too low it will cut around the love handles.

I made further alteration by adding center back seam and combining the back piece with the back edge piece. Here you can see that the back side only have one seam at the center back. These ones are my favorite because I can wear them under my workout leggings. I also reshaped the front legs a bit to my liking.

The lace edges or the folded mesh edges are very soft and thin so they don’t show VPL like ordinary panties. I don’t sweat much, so I don’t mind wearing fancy panty under the leggings.

Another thing that I like about this pattern is the minimal use of elastic. The stretch lace version only needs elastic on the front legs through crotch, while the mesh version needs elastic on the front legs through crotch and waist.

This is how the final version of the panty fits on me. I think the pattern can also be used as shapewear if firm powernet is used on the waistband.

• Pattern is Merckwaerdigh waistband (PDF) size XS.

Hello and happy new year!

It’s winter and I’m surrounded by the darks and greys that people are wearing. I thought something bright would make me feel better as I’m still not used to the cold winter, despite having been living here for several years.

The pattern is Kochi kimono by Papercut patterns. From the description of the pattern:  “A boxy cropped jacket for any season. Make it in wool for winter or soft chiffon for summer, our three variations provide plenty of options. Features optional lining, 3/4 sleeves, drop shoulder, side seam splits, tie front and front patch pockets.”

The simple and boxy shape is perfect for the red fake fur fabric that I used. I made variation 1 with pockets and ties, but omitted the side ties. The fake fur is too bulky for the coat to overlap on the front anyway.

The whole coat and pockets are lined with bird-patterned silk fabric. For the pockets, the pocket and lining are attached on the upper edge first. Then the lining is stitched on the front of the coat using sewing machine, the pocket then folded over the lining and handstitched around the edges. This way, I don’t have to topstich around the pockets, while the pockets are still strongly attached. I suppose these are very difficult to explain using merely words. Sorry if it is not clear!

The striped long-sleeved tee is made with Kyoto tee pattern by Papercut. This is the second time I made this pattern and I still love it. The pattern is very simple but the ruffles around the armhole make it very special! I found that many Papercut patterns have the same concept, simple lines with interesting details.

The stripes on the fabric are kinda wavy, which is great since there’s no need to match the stripes! I still have some leftover enough for two matching tops for my fur babies.

I also made the jeans! My usual jeans pattern is actually Sandra jeans by Style Arc, but this time I wanted to try different pattern. This is Safran pants by Deer & Doe. This is a pattern for high-waisted, skinny jeans made with stretch woven fabric. Because I’m pretty short, I shortened the rise about 1 cm and a lot on the legs.

The jeans actually look fine, but I’m not too crazy about it. My biggest concern about the jeans is the size of the pockets, they are too small! I need to at least be able to fit my whole palm into the front pockets, and my palm is not even that big.

This whole outfit actually was made in 2017, but I didn’t get the chance to take pictures until a few days into 2018. I find the instant-ness of Instagram has made me a bit lazy in writing and taking pictures for this blog. There are even some unblogged sewing items from 2016! Hopefully in 2018 I will be more inspired to blog my projects!

Patterns used are:

• Kochi kimono by Papercut patterns (PDF), size XXS.
• Kyoto tee by Papercut patterns (PDF), size XXS.
• Safran pants by Deer & Doe, size 36