...virtual sabbatical...

Backcountry Hut Trip to The Wallowa, Oregon

2015-02-26T16:38:00.000-08:00

In a season of sparse snowpack throughout the Pacific Northwest, the Wallowas in Eastern Oregon maintained some shreddable conditions, especially in the alpine zones above 7,000ft. Ten of us rented out the Wing Ridge huts just outside Joseph, OR over the Presidents Day weekend and managed to find some really fun lines.

South-facing bowls felt like spring conditions - creamy in the late morning, but too crusty by the afternoon. The shaded North-facing aspects were by far the softest, but wind-loading made for considerable avalanche conditions, so they had to be approached with caution. Great crew, no crowds and terrain for days. All the elements of a good hut trip.

Photo credits: Calder Hughes, Lilly Mongeau
Song: Beat Connection - Saola

Multisport Roadtrip Through New Zealand's South Island & NSW Australia

2013-05-06T09:45:00.001-07:00

Highlights from 8 days on New Zealand's South Island including Queenstown, Fox Glacier, Castle Hill, Oamaru and Dunedin. A stopover in Sydney on our way home gave us a chance to meet up with friends and check out Ferndale Wildlife Park on the way to go climbing in the Blue Mountains, wrapping up with a day at Manly Beach.

Shot at 60 frames per second with a Sony NEX 6

Music Credits:
"Shadow" by Gringo Star
"From Finner" by Of Monsters and Men
"Well, You Can do it Without Me" by Father John Misty

Surf Trip to Playa El Tunco, El Salvador

2012-05-19T12:50:00.001-07:00

Clips from a fun and relaxing week in Playa El Tunco, El Salvador. Clean, glassy and pumping 5-12ft surf at the main town breaks (El Sunzal and La Bocana). Hotel shots are from the Tekuani Kal.

Music credits:
Sixth Finger - Paint It, Black
Sola Rosa - Del Ray

Climbing Cathedral Peak & Bear Creek Spire

2011-08-15T23:43:00.000-07:00

Short video from a climbing trip in the Eastern Sierra. After acclimatizing on Cathedral Peak (5.7), one of the classic climbs in Yosemite's Tuolumne Meadows, we headed south to Little Lakes Valley for a different, but equally classic alpine ascent of Bear Creek Spire (5.6).

Music:
"Ghostwriter" - RJD2

"Golden Cage" - The Whitest Boy Alive

"La Buena Vida" - Surfing in Guanacaste Costa Rica

2011-04-19T22:39:00.000-07:00

Surf. Eat. Sleep. Repeat. Highlights from an epic week of two-a-day surf sessions in Guanacaste Costa Rica.

Music Credits:
- Pretty Lights, Finally Moving Remix
- Miike Snow, Animal (Mark Ronson Remix)
- Surfer Blood, Floating Vibes
- Miami Horror (feat. Alan Polomo), Holidays
- Two Door Cinema Club, Something Good Can Work (The Twelves Remix)
- The Lively Ones, Surf Rider

Traversing Patagonia's Paso Guillaumet

2010-12-13T13:28:00.000-08:00

A three hour bus ride north of El Calafate and the famous Perrito Moreno glacier is the not-so-quietly burgeoning town of El Chalten. A warm, welcoming last stand of civilization before the cruelly beautiful park that is one of Southern Patagonia's last unpolished jewels. Visitors generally visit El Chalten between November and February when the temperatures are more tolerable and daylight lasts until late in the evening. The summertime temperature disparity between the enormous Patagonian Ice Cap and the valleys to the west creates powerful, icy gusts that scour El Chalten throughout the day. In the winter there is almost no wind, but the frigid temperatures and short days keep even the burliest of climbers from attempting legendary peaks like Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and Poincenot.

The three short days I had for my first visit to El Chalten were enough to realize one needs at least three months to explore this extensive surrounding National Park. We ended up hiking into Poincenot campground for two nights and using it as a base to do a few of the area's most well-known hikes like Laguna del los Tres and Laguna Torre. During an afternoon spent staring up at Fitz Roy from Laguna de los Tres, I enviously watched several mountaineering teams traverse the surrounding glaciers. As I crawled into my tent that evening I decided that I would regret leaving Argentina without getting to the base of Fitz Roy and seeing the ice fields on the other side.

After researching dozens of possible routes and guide companies I felt overwhelmed with the options. Fortunately one of my coworkers was a climber and had recently done the Paso Marconi with a guide company he spoke highly of called Serac-Andinismo. Paso Marconi is one of the lower, more accessible cols that is used to access the Patagonian Ice Field from El Chalten. It usually takes 6-8 days, half of which are glacier travel and consequently highly dependent on good weather. I had something shorter and more technical in mind so I reached out to Julian, the director of Serac-Andinismo, about what other options were available during January. Julian was really helpful and patiently explained the differences between the programs they offer over the phone. We ended up choosing Paso Guillaumet because the route passes through some lesser-traveled parts of the park and is technical without involving vertical rock or ice climbing (ie. not a route we would have felt comfortable doing on our own).

The name is hard to remember but the route is impossible to forget. Paso "G" as we called it was incredible and stands out as one of the most unique and memorable trips of my life. Approaching the pass from the backside and then coming over the ridge to the base of Fitz Roy gave us the chance to see the towers from a variety of perspectives. As we traversed along the intimidating accordion of glaciers below Fitz Roy and Poincenot I couldn't help but feel microscopic and fragile. Our guides Julian and Diego told us that an unusual snowpack combined with glacial movement had made their usual route too dangerous to pass. Serac-Andinismo ends up taking one or maybe two groups per year along this route as it's one of the most technical programs they offer. One other guide company in the area offers a similar route, but they end up doing it even less frequently. As our guides were faced with charting a revised path around crevasses that could swallow a school bus, I realized how foolish it would have been to do this route unguided. Even expert mountaineering skills can't replace the experience local guides have crossing these glaciers.

If you have the chance to visit El Chalten and want to venture into the glaciers, experience the ice fields or do technical mixed climbing, I highly recommend Julian and Diego from Serac-Andinismo. They are really experienced, professional guides who also know how to customize each trip and make it as enjoyable as possible. If hiking is more your speed then all you need is a good topo map and the Lonely Planet's Trekking in the Patagonian Andes guidebook.

Getting to El Chalten:

Technically you can drive or take a bus from either Buenos Aires or Santiago but it would take the better part of a week. There is currently no airport in El Chalten, but you can fly in to El Calafate and take a 3hr bus ride to the town of El Chalten ($19 USD per person each way). There are also a few private companies that organize transfers directly from the airport in El Calafate to El Chalten for about double the price of the public bus. The El Chalten chamber of commerce has a helpful page that outlines flight, bus and car options. If you fly, opt for LAN rather than the less-than-reliable Aerolineas Argentinas.

Places to Stay in El Chalten:

The lodging options in El Calafate vary from camping to 5 star hotels like the famous Estancia Cristina. Hostels del Glacier run 2 places in El Calafate - the older and slightly cheaper Pioneros lodge and the more recently built Libertador location where we stayed.

Argentina's president Christina Kirchner recently built an enormous luxury hotel in El Chalten and two of the towns four main streets were paved last year. Don't wait too long to plan your trip because it's only a matter of years before this sleepy, one ATM town becomes a mainstream tourist destination like Torres del Paine.

Beneath the Veil of Steak and Wine: The Obscured Charms of Buenos Aires

2010-07-09T14:10:00.000-07:00

Two years after falling in love with this chaotic, passionate and isolated metropolis as a tourist, I decided it was time to return to the United States. I throughly enjoyed my 20 month stint working in Buenos Aires and traveling throughout South America, but I couldn't be happier to return to my friends, family and all the conveniences of the US.

I miss my Argentine friends and co-workers as well as the qualities of life that visitors typically rave about: legendary steak (a.k.a. parilla) amazing wine values and unrestrained night life. However, what I find myself longing for more than these indulgences are the lesser-known qualities of BsAs that escape most passing visitors.

Leaving your watch at home. Most restaurants stay open until 1am and clubs don't get going until closer to 2am. Suffice to say that unless you are a vampire you never need to worry about last call or having places close before you're ready to leave.
Papi Fútbol. Canada has pond hockey, Brazil has futevolley, the UK has lawn tennis and Argentina has Papi Fútbol. Scattered throughout Buenos Aires are small indoor and outdoor soccer fields where Argentines play a 5v5 format that's similar to American indoor soccer, but smaller and without walls. I had a blast playing with two different leagues, but primarily one fortuitous mix of expats and locals called BAFA (Buenos Aires Fútbol Amigos).
First class buses. Bus travel throughout Argentina is often the best way to travel. While companies like Greyhound in the US have a reputation for being full of sketchy characters and ex-cons, bus lines like Andesmar and FlechaBUS comfortably take tourists and locals alike to destinations throughout Argentina. The trips are often long, but the buses are modern and complete with meal service (+wine), bathrooms and big, comfy reclining seats. Omnilineas.com is the best site I found for browsing schedules of multiple lines.
32oz beers for less than $1 dollar and the late night delivery service called No Mames Wey that would restock your house party until 3am. Quilmes is by far the most widely available, but other mass produced Argentine beers like Schneider & Brahma tastier and just as cheap.
Gooooool! Feeling the buildings shutter every time Argentina's national team scored a goal. It didn't happen very often (this year's team barely got the last qualification spot within South America) but when they scored you would hear a chorus of yelling reverberating from the tightly packed high rises.
Persicco & Volta. I wish I knew exactly why Argentina's Italian-style ice cream is so inexplicably good. What I do know is that no trip is complete without a visit to Persicco and Volta. Most Porteños claim Persicco as their favorite, but few patronize any one shop exclusively. If you are a chocolate lover Volta's unique varieties will blow you away. To top it off, these and most other "heladerías" do free home delivery until about 2am.
Choripan. Every country has their versions of sausage, but Argentina's Chorizo is the best I have ever tasted. Some restaurants serve "Choripan" but it's primarily the realm of street cart vendors. The recipe is simple: place a grilled Chorizo on a french baguette, add some chimichurri, mustard or whatever condiments you crave and POW. If you want to sound like a "Chori" pro, request yours "mariposa" or butterflied.

Argentina's wine and steak are famous for a reason. Below are some tried and true recommendations for visitors and residents alike.

Six excellent everyday Argentine wines:

Rutini Cabernet/Malbec Reserva
Intimo Cabernet
Doña Paula Estate Malbec
Catena Zapata Estiba Reservada
Zucardi Q Malbec
Altos las Hormigas - Valle de Uco Reserva

My favorite steakhouses (parillas) in Buenos Aires:

Miranda (Palermo Hollywood) Miranda was my go-to parilla because of its rare combination of high-quality meat, "real" salads, microbrews and tastefully modern design. Salad as most parillas consists of a bowl of shredded lettuce, carrots and some unripe tomatoes, but not at Miranda. They serve big, fresh salads complete with avocado, corn, grilled salmon or steak.
La Dorita (Palermo) is an excellent traditional parilla that's a clear local's favorite. Go to the one near Parque Las Heras because it has a Persico a block away.
La Brigada (San Telmo) This soccer-themed parilla is owned by a very friendly guy who looks like Maradona's brother. I was sold on this place on my second of 3 visits when our waiter sliced up a thick, perfectly cooked T-bone using two soup spoons! If you go brush up your knowledge of which cuts of steak to order or you might leave dissatisfied.
Lola's (Recoleta Cemetary) The inside is exceptionally cheesy, but their steaks are arguably the best in BsAs. What sets Lola's apart are the french sauces and bastes they bake into the meat after it comes off the grill. Their outdoor garden patio is the way to go on a nice night.
La Cabrera (Palermo SoHo) Good but not good enough to warrant the crowds and the wait. The excessive hype given by guide books in recent years has taken away from La Cabrera's old-world charm.
Cabaña las Lilas (Puerto Madero) Excellent and overpriced, this Brazilian-owned steakhouse caters to the high-end tourist crowd and people who are eating on the company tab.

Iguazu Falls Makes Niagara Look Like a Burst Pipe

2010-06-11T03:10:00.002-07:00

Located on the mutual borders of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay, Iguazu Falls remains one of South America's most popular natural attractions. Iguazu's infamous "Garganta del Diablo" or Devil's Throat pictured above inspires equal parts awe and fear into park visitors. You can't help but feel some butterflies when you realize that you are just meters from an enormous watery sinkhole that could devour you in a matter of seconds. Parque Iguazu's raised wooden pathways on the Argentine side of the falls bring you right next to, and in some places just above some of the worlds biggest and most impressive falls. These glorified boat docks quickly made it on to my list of "things that would never fly in North America."

As we passed over the calm green waters on our way to the main section of the Devil's Throat it was hard to believe that the mellow ripples under you feet were less than a minute from getting ruthlessly hurled into the frothy abyss below. It's not usually as stormy in Iguazu as my photos might suggest, but we just happened to visit when the area was getting hit with sporadic electrical storms. I have seen friend's photos from their time in Iguazu and the water was not only less violent and misty, but clearer and less clay-colored.

While touring around the park, I saw a wide array of reactions from visitors, from awe to fear to sheer amazement. Upon seeing Iguazu for the first time, First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt supposedly exclaimed "Poor Niagra!" Like Eleanor and most other visitors to Iguazu, I had never seen anything that compared to the miles of falls that spew upwards of 350,000-400,000 gallons of water per second. While Africa's Victoria Falls are taller (108m) and higher volumes of water have been recorded flowing from Niagara Falls, neither can match Iguazu's sheer acreage and panoramic views. At one point visitors can stand on a platform and be surrounded by 260 degrees of waterfalls.

Getting there:

Iguazu is typically reached via one of the two main towns on either side of the park: Puerto Iguazú, Argentina or Foz do Iguaçu, Brazil. Both towns have domestic airports with multiple daily flights from Buenos Aires and Sao Paulo respectively. From Buenos Aires I would recommend LAN and from Sao Paulo or Rio de Janeiro I would fly GOL. If you are on a budget, the first class busses are a good alternative but keep in mind they take about 18hrs from Buenos Aires and about 16hrs from Sao Paulo. The Argentine bus lines tend to be a better value than the Brazilian ones if you have a choice.

Where to stay:

The location and overall convenience the Sheraton Iguazu Resort and Spa is impossible to beat. With the Sheraton you are paying an average nightly rate of $300 USD for the view and location rather than fancy, modern rooms or luxurious amenities. The above average but not rave reviews on Trip Advisor are consistent with what I heard from fellow travelers and friends. If you stay at the Sheraton be prepared to buy all your meals at the hotel because there are just a few cafeteria-style restaurants inside the park that serve decent but overpriced meals to tourists during park hours.

If you are OK with the 20min bus ride to and from the park there are plenty of lodging options in nearby Puerto Iguazu. I can't remember if the bus was free but if you had to pay it was very minimal (2 pesos). For backpackers and those on a budget I highly recommend the Hostel-Inn Iguazu (pictured above). After staying in a wide variety of hostels throughout South America over the past two years, I can confidently say that Hostel-Inn was my favorite. The Hostel-Inn is best described as a resort that got converted into a not-so-family-friendly club med complete with indoor and outdoor lounges, ping pong and pool tables, dance music, outdoor pool and tiki bar. We stayed in a double private room with bath that was clean, secure and completely sufficient for about $47 USD/night.

As amazing as Iguazu is, you only really need 2-3 to see both the Argentine and Brazilian sides of the park. Some must do/see activities while in Iguazu include:

1) Walk the "Paseo Garganta del Diablo" to get up close and personal with Iguazu's most impressive section

2) Go on the 20min jet boat ride for some unique views of the falls from below. Just bring a poncho and/or a change of clothes because the boat drivers make sure everyone gets soaked.

3) Take at least an hour to soak in the scenery along the raised pathways just above the Argentine falls

4) Look for critters and tropical plants along the park's network of paved nature paths below the falls

5) If you have time (and a Brazilian visa), take a bus to the Brazilian side for a different perspective of the falls and some picaña. The view of the Brazilian falls from Argentina pictured below.

South America's Most Captivating City

2010-03-16T07:31:00.000-07:00

After years at the top of my list of must-see destinations, I finally got to experience prismatic Rio de Janeiro this past October. Of the South American cities I have visited, Rio is without a doubt the most unique and impressive. I had never seen a beach town, let alone a city with Rio's fusion of jungle-covered hills, lagoons, towering rock formations and white sand beaches. With each consecutive viewpoint, I became progressively captivated with Rio's natural beauty.

To all those who told me I would love Rio, you were right. The stunning landscape looks and feels like nowhere else on earth, the city is dripping with energy and culture, the locals are fit and beautiful and the fruit stands or "sucos" are irresistibly enticing.

If you have seen the movies City of God, Favela Rising or Elite Squad you know that Rio's allure and beauty is often overshadowed by its inherent danger. Though it can feel unsafe, visitors who are cautious and aware of their surroundings can still experience everything Rio has to offer. Towards the end of my time in Rio I recognized that one of the fundamental reasons why Rio is so incredible is the coexistence between locals as diverse as their city's landscape.

There was no better example of this enchanting diversity than in Rio's bohemian Lapa neighborhood, famous for it's live Brazilian music scene and effervescent nightlife. The main street where the bars and clubs were concentrated was teeming with a wide variety of locals mixed and the occasional tourist. We ended up going to Rio Scenarium which came highly recommended and completely surpassed any expectations I had.

The crowd was on the whole so much more laid back and seemingly at ease than Paulistas and certainly Porteños. The live Forró band had no problem keeping the dance floor full throughout the night. It was so refreshing seeing the contented crowd dancing fluently absent of the dark, loud room and 3 drink minimum that is so painfully common in North America and parts of Europe. Forró is a traditional style that's led by an accordion and accompanied by a drum and triangle. The simple yet captivating beats sounded like a sexier, more danceable version of Cajun music. Between the music, the random decorations and memorabilia hanging off the walls and the people, I remained captivated for hours just soaking it all in. Throughout the night, I marveled at how tan, fit and attractive the crowd was overall. The only logical conclusion I could draw is that Rio's unique beauty serves as a constant reminder for its residents to focus on the simple yet important elements of life; music, dance, health, friends and culture.

I spent some time walking around our hotel in Copacabana (Rio Guesthouse) and quickly realized how drastically things change from one block to another. Where some cities transform from safe to sketchy within neighborhoods, Rio morphs within hundreds of meters. Just blocks above the most touristy sections of Rio (Copacabana, Botafogo, Ipanema, Leblon) lies the fringe of some of Rio's most notorious favelas or slums.

While walking off a huge Picaña feast along Ipanema beach, we saw a Police car screech up to a group of shirtless guys already scattering towards the beach. As we approached we saw 8 guys laying flat on their stomachs with two armed cops, one in plain clothes and one in uniform standing above them with a huge machine gun. This was an all-too-real reminder that although Leblon and Ipanema feel safe, it's impossible to escape the realities of life next to the Favelas.

The fact that I felt unsafe at times will certainly not prevent me from returning to Rio many times throughout my life. Tourists who stick to the safer parts of the city, stay as inconspicuous as possible and exercise caution are able to experience the aspects that make Rio so unique. The beach front esplanades, shopping areas as well as most of the Leblon and Ipanema neighborhoods felt very safe to me and were vigilantly monitored by Rio's tourist police who seemed to deter most shady activity.

In four days I feel like I barely scratched the surface of Rio and would return for another week without thinking twice. Aside from checking out a wider variety of Rio's neighborhoods I really wanted to go hang-gliding over the city but the wind conditions while I was there grounded any hopes of that. Now that the 2016 Summer Olympics coming to Rio I have another excuse to return for a bird's eye view of my favorite South American city.

The Best of Rio (a local's perspective)

2009-12-25T14:49:00.000-08:00

My Carioca co-workers are all very proud of their city, and rightfully so. When I sent an inter-office email asking for tips I got a bunch of great suggestions for things to see, places to eat and hot spots to check out. While I can't vouch for each and every recommendation, we were really happy with the ones we did try. The handful of times we got cocky and tried a restaurant or bar off this list we thoroughly regretted it.

I made some slight revisions to the below to improve readability and added in the most relevant links I could find. Huge thanks goes out to Rodrigo & Julia for putting together their suggestions. Just try to hide that smug grin while you dodge the packs of tourists on their Lonely Planet pilgrimage;)

View Best of Rio de Janeiro in a larger map

Tourist Favorites:

Corcovado (statue of Christ the Redeemer)
Pao de Açucar (Sugar Loaf - cable car brings you to the top)
Ipanema Beach (anytime of day, but especially during sunset)
Copacabana Beach (more touristy, but beautiful as well)
Jardim Botanico (Botanical Garden)

Local Flavor:

Centro Cultural Carioca - a place to see old school samba, chorinho, etc, I recommend saturday night when "Sururu na Roda" plays there. Great atmosphere, great people, great music. Tip: take a cab to and from, it's easy to get one there to go back to the hotel.
Pedra da Gavea (if you want to do some hang-gliding)
Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, by night. Go eat / drink at any of the kiosks. Sunset over there is usually very nice too.
Cobal do Humaitá - It's a market during the day but at night it gets crowded with young people, due to its many nice bars. I'd recommend Pizza Park or Espirito do Chopp.
Escalada Selaron in lapa is another interesting place that has been in some hip hop videos
Horto Neighborhood - there is a mountain just behind that with some waterfalls. You can walk up there to swim, and enjoy the sunset from Pedra Chinesa (Chinese Rock)
Juice bars/stands (a.k.a. Sucos) are very popular in Rio and a great way to try different varieties of tropical fruit juices, as well as eating Açaí (rich, dark fruit typical of the amazon that's usually sweet because it’s mixed with Guaraná syrup). Be sure to try Cacao, Acerola (less sweet) & Cupuaçu too. The best spots in town are Bibi Sucos (Leblon), Poli Sucos (Nossa Senhora da Paz Square, Ipanema), and BB Lanches (R. Ataulfo de Paiva, in the cornner of Aristides Espínola at the beginning of the street)

Places to Eat:

Celeiro for salads and natural food (Leblon)
Ten Kai for japanese (Ipanema)
Zuka for nice food and atmosphere (Leblon)
Devassa - chope and appetizers (Leblon)
Marius Crustaceos for Seafood. It's a bit expensive but hey, it's for tourists and the food is great! (Leme beach)
Porcão Leblon - Great churrascaria, very famous chain of rodizio (all you can eat). You have a big salad buffet and vegetarian options as well, but the different kinds of meat are the main attraction. Second location called Porcão Rio's – Aterro do Flamengo.
Capricciosa - Best pizza place in Rio, even if a little posh. It’s in Vinicius de Moraes, near Barão da torre st.
Gula Gula - Inexpensive and healthy food, great salads, grilled fish and meat. Very cute and laid back atmosphere (R. Anibal de Mendonça, corner with Barão da torre st.)
Nik Sushi - Great all you can eat Japanese restaurant for sushi lovers. Kind of Pop (R. Garcia D’Ávilla, between Visconde de Pirajá and Prudente de Morais st.)

Clubs & Bars:

Belmonte - leblon or jardim botancio are the best choices – please make reservations.
Rio Scenarium in downtown Rio/Lapa, very good place to hear chorinho (samba jazz). Not very safe neighborhood, please arrange transportation. (We went here and LOVED it)
Clube dos Democráticos - Very popular dance place, with good traditional music and samba. In Lapa, check transportation and security measures, somebody to escort because it’s not such a safe neighborhood.
Melt - night club, sometimes have live music. More American like, pop, rock and Brazilian music. (We also went here and liked it. Relatively typical club atmosphere)
Bombar - More American like, pop, rock and Brazilian music.
Botequim Informal - nice bar, good food, lovely cod and the people are pretty chill too (Praça Nossa Senhora da Paz, Ipanema)
Garota de Ipanema (Rua Prudente de Moraes com Rua Vinicius de Moraes, Ipanema)
Carioca da Gema - best root samba live, for ~$10. Friday is the best day to be there (Lapa)
Baixo Gávea - the main point to meet people, with lots of bars and all. This is in the south, between Leblon and the Botanical Garden

Other:

Best shopping malls are Rio Sul (in Botafogo), Shopping da Gavea (in Gavea), Shopping Leblon (in Leblon) and Barra Shopping (in Barra).
Adventure tours and sky diving
Alternative adventure tours and excursions
For Art, I would take the tube to Cinelandia and walk to MAM (Museum of Modern Art)
Favela Tours

Safety Tips:

Careful when you use your photo or video cameras. Don’t walk around with expensive equipments in your hands or disclosed place. Be aware of pick pockets at all times.
Don’t carry much money, passports, tickets or important documents around. It’s a good idea to use your hotel safe for your valuables.
Don't bring a laptop but if you do, carry it in a backpack and leave it with the hotel. If you need to carry it around for work, use a backpack and try to get transport set up to and from where you are going.
Better to walk around the city in a group, or al least in pairs. More attention is required at night, when you should avoid empty streets. If you are leaving late at night from some club or restaurant, ask inside to the hostess for a cab. They can call one.
Always ask to cab driver to use the meter, as well as try to get taxi from the hotel or regular stops, rather than getting one in the street
Best neighbourhoods to stay are: Ipanema, Leblon & Gavea. Urca, Copacabana and Botafogo should be fine too if you're on a budget, but not ideal.

piCHILEmu

2009-06-29T13:31:00.000-07:00

With over half of South America's Pacific Coastline spanning almost 4,000 miles, it's strange that travelers most often associate Chile with the Andes and wineries rather than beaches. Even though Brazil, Venezuela and Ecuador have more beach-oriented cultures and warmer weather, the Chilean coast is far too scenic and diverse to be overlooked. Chile is California's less-crowded, less-hyped mirror image in the southern hemisphere. Ever since my visit to Viña del Mar in August 2008, I had been anxious to check out more of the Chilean coast.

About 4hrs southwest of Santiago by car there's a mellow but bustling surf town called Pichilemu (pronounced Pee-chee-may-lu). Pichilemu is well known for it's big waves within the circle of well-traveled surfers, but otherwise is pretty much off the map. I first heard about Pichilemu in a LAN airlines travel article and later read some positive reviews in Lonely Planet Chile and on an about.com travel page featuring Chile's best beaches. A group of expats living in Buenos Aires and I were looking for a fun, relaxed beach town to spend a long weekend. Most of the options sounded fun so we just crossed our fingers and choose what sounded like the most appealing costal spot within 3-4hrs of Santiago. We knew we made a good decision when at the end of the weekend the 7 of us were competing to come up with the best excuse for missing the next few days of work. (Below: mellow rollers at low tide breaking off the point in Pichilemu)
When we arrived, everyone assumed we came for "la ola grande" - a.k.a. the Quicksilver big wave tournament just down the coast on Punta Lobos. We had no idea it was going on. Some locals we met told us that huge swells hit the central Chilean coast around May, creating a Mavericks-like beast that cracks so loud it can be heard from town (15km away). According to Surfline, March brings Pichilemu's best waves, but there's consistently good, if not great surf year-round. Pichilemu's water temperature and coastline are a lot like Santa Cruz. You won't last long without a 4/3 wetsuit in addition to booties+gloves in the fall/winter.

There are not a ton of lodging options in Pichilemu, but more than enough to accommodate the swell of surfers who arrive from Santiago and neighboring cities during holidays and weekends. Most of the hostels or "pensiones" we saw in town looked like they would do the trick, but were not exactly places I could get excited about spending more than a weekend. By sheer luck, we chose one of the coolest and most unique hostals I have ever stayed in. The Pichilemu Surf Hostal and the restaurant/bar across the street called Puente Holandes are owned by a really nice windsurfing-obsessed Dutch expat named Marcel. With above average food and a comfortable, well-stocked bar echoing Reggae and Electronica, Puente Holandes became our living room for the weekend. They even brought in a DJ on Saturday night which morphed into a beach bonfire rager lasting late into the night.
At about $50/night for a double including breakfast, the Pichilemu Surf Hostal was an outstanding value. They even provide complimentary hot salt water baths overlooking the beach (pictured above). There are definitely cheaper places in town if you are looking to stay and surf for a couple weeks, but for a few nights the Pichimelu Surf Hostal would be tough to beat.

Even with the extra GPS unit from the car rental company, getting to Pichilemu took a few hours longer than we expected. It's a little too far from Santiago to be a legitimate weekend trip, so if I had it to do over again I would have taken a few extra days off in order to fully settle into Pichilemu's relaxed, unhurried rhythm.

The Circuit - Torres del Paine, Chile

2009-06-14T12:42:00.000-07:00

Torres del Paine has become world famous for its dynamic scenery, knife-like granite towers, turcoise lakes and mammoth glaciers. Over the last decade it has become a popular destination for climbers, trekkers, photographers and anyone touring the Southern Patagonia. With this popularity came park infrastructure and a growing tourism industry. There are just about as many ways to get to the park as there are activities to choose from once you arrive. However, as we eventually figured out, there are fewer options from the Argentine side of the border (details and logistics at the end of this post).
The bag checks and customs formalities at the Chilean border seemed to take an eternity. Groggy from the half sleep of the bus ride, we got dropped off at the eastern entrance to Torres del Paine at Laguna Amarga. The clear, sunny weather provided a humbling introduction to the mosaic of mountains, lakes, plains that make up the park. From the Laguna Amarga entrance most visitors interested in trekking take a short transfer to Hosteria Los Torres or the Paine Grande Lodge depending on whether they plan to do the popular "W" route or the full circuit. It's also possible to skip the transfer and start the 6-7 day park circuit known simply as "el circuito" directly from the park entrance.
Day 1 (Laguna Amarga to Camping Seron): The longer dotted line on the map to the left shows the alternative start from Laguna Amarga and the shorter dotted line shows the transfer route. All in all, the transfer only saves you a mile or so we decided it was not worth the hassle and cost (~$15 USD/person). The route to the first campsite was mostly flat and in retrospect was the easiest of the 6 days. Getting there took ~8hrs and was only challenging because we were not quite used to the weight of our packs. Seron is a simple site with a small building that serves food, drinks and has a bathroom/shower available.

Day 2 (Camping Seron to Refugio Dickson): The second day was ironically my second favorite of the circuit. Traversing the northern edge of the park through rolling hills, two enormous lakes and peaks in every direction. Day two's highlight was undoubtedly the moment we spotted Refugio Dickson in the distance, surrounded by a combination of mountains, lakes and glaciers that looked improbably fake. Refugio Dickson was an unusual, but certainly memorable spot to spend New Years eve.
Day 3 (Refugio Dickson to Camping Los Perros): Anticipating a slow start on New Years Day, we planned a short 4hr section, the mellowest of our circuit. The next campsite after Los Perros sits just below the far side of the highest pass on the loop, which is often covered in patches of snow and disposed to sudden, inclement weather. In order to skip Los Perros and do the pass all in one day, we would have needed 9hrs of daylight which would have meant an early departure from Refugio Dixon. We heard that many groups get stuck at Los Perros or Refugio Dixon for days waiting for the weather to clear up enough to safely cross the pass, so we figured starting out first thing in the morning would give us the best shot at making it. Los Perros is a simple campsite tucked into a grove of trees with a common drying hut and ranger station that sells the essentials and has bathrooms and running water. They charge somewhere around $10 per tent for use of the facilities.
Day 4 (Los Perros to Refugio Grey): Our fourth day was definitely the most grueling of the circuit. We more than made up for our previous "rest day" by covering in one day what most groups do in two. From Los Perros we headed up a long and gradual but relatively steep moraine field, through patches of light snow to the saddle-like pass. At 1192m, paso John Gardner is hardly high by Andean standards, but since the majority of the park is right around sea level it provides some absolutely spectacular views of the park and especially the gargantuan Glacier Grey (photo above). The snow, exposure and 100+ mph winds at the top of the pass made this pass seem much higher than 4,000ft.
We descended the pass and met up with at trail that hugs the ridge above Glacier Grey, weaving through a forest gnarled by the harsh climate. I found myself stopping every so often to admire the magnificent scale of Glacier Grey. After we passed Campamento Paso, the Glacier's blue ripples we saw from the pass began to take on dimension, becoming accordion-like masses of ice towers and crevices. The magnitude of Glacier Grey was memorizing and unlike anything I have ever seen. Aching and exhausted after 10hrs of hiking, we were blown away by Refugio Grey's lakefront location with the towering backdrop of Cumbre Norte and Cumbre Principal. The site reminded me of a summer camp for adults with its picnic tables, hot showers, general store, not to mention the guide company that organizes kayak trips, ice climbing and glacier hikes in the park. Refugio Grey would be an ideal base camp for a an extended stay but also great for a short visit.

Day 5 (Refugio Grey to Paine Grande Lodge): I was really sad to leave Refugio Grey because it was such an ideal and picturesque spot, but we had beds and hot showers waiting for us at Paine Grande Lodge. Day 5 was one of the longer days from a mileage perspective, but the flat terrain makes it easy to cover a lot of ground.
Up until this point, we had been pretty lucky with weather. A storm came through a few hours into the day, bringing rain from all directions along with powerful gusts of wind that almost succeeded in blowing me over a dozen times. It was hard to enjoy the scenery when you are being blasted with sideways rain, but on the way to Paine Grande you pass a variety of really scenic lakes. Cold and soaked we arrived at the lodge, ate a huge buffet dinner, took a hot shower and melted into the bar with it's impressive panoramic view. Sitting in the warm bar with a cold bottle of Austral, looking out on the lake and the storm shrouded cuernos, I felt bad for all the hikers trying to set up camp in the driving rain. Of all the nights we spent in Torres del Paine, this was the one I didn't want to spend in a tent.
Paine Grande lodge has somewhat of a sterile, institutional feel to it. Unlike the more remote refugios and campsites full of backpackers and active, adventurous travelers, Paine Grande was full the type of guests you would expect at a Holiday Inn - frumpy American families, packs of European retirees, Brazilian couples dressed in leather and fur and tour groups of soggy, ill-prepared hikers. We were cracking up at the series of guest requests for thing like fresh towels, extra blankets, laundry and clothes drying services. What do these people expect? We were at a hostel (not a hotel) in the middle of a huge national park that's only accessible by boat or a 3-5 day hike. It's amazing they even have electricity, let alone hot showers, a full blown cafeteria, a bar and a general store. I came to resent the increased level of accessibility that the tourist ferries brought to this unique spot.

Day 6 (Paine Grande to Hosteria Los Torres): Our 6th and final day was nothing short of a marathon. We did the last 1/3 of the loop in one day, covering 24km in about 10hrs. At this point we were feeling quite strong, our packs were the lightest they had been and we were well rested so we decided to see if we could push all the way through to the end.After 4hrs we stopped for a much needed long lunch breat at Albergue los Cuernos which is usually the second to last campsite on the circuit. From there the rest of the day consisted of a rolling ridge traverse that skirted the shore above Lago Nordenskjold. By the time we reached Hosteria Los Torres it was almost 10pm and we were exhausted and deliriously hungry. Hosteria Los Torres is relatively new and was a really good value. Most of the guests were using it as the starting point for the popular sunrise hike to the Torres lookout.

Aside from the amazing diversity of scenery, the thing I liked the most about the circuit was the flexibility it offers. You can stay in refugios the whole time and never pitch a tent or you can camp every night. You can be aggressive and finish it in 4-6 days or opt for a more leisurely 7-9 day pace. Food, water and drinks are available for purchase at a number of different points along the route which saves simplifies meal planning and dramatically lightens your pack. This removes much of the stress and uncertainty from planning and hiking the circuit.

5 "Must Have" items for trekking in Torres del Paine:
1) A windproof, waterproof rain shell. The wind in Torres is extremely strong and easily cuts through soft shells and insulating layers. I brought along a softshell but I ended up wearing my Arcteryx Sidewinder for the majority of the trek to stay warm and dry. Pack something more burley than a rain jacket, but less bulky than an insulated ski jacket.
2) Lightweight waterproof pants. I usually consider rain pants a "nice to have" when backpacking, but with the fast-moving, unpredictable weather in Torres del Paine, they were a must. I busted mine out at least once a day.
3) Two beanies - one thick and thin. While hiking I was loving my thin Icebreaker wool beanie, but once we stopped to set up camp, I wished I brought something thicker and warmer. A windstopper fleece cap would be another more packable alternative to thick wool.
4) Waterproof pack cover. A strong gust of wind stole mine below paso John Gardner and I had to Macgyver a black garbage bag for the rest of the trek. Not having a pack cover in this kind of climate is a great way to guarantee a bag full of wet gear. Some of the lodges have garbage bags they will sell you, but it's a poor substitute for a good pack cover.
5) Wool insulation layers. I recommend Icebreaker or Smartwool base layers because they are versatile, packable and smell way better than synthetics after a week of hiking. Replacing synthetic baselayers with half as many wool layers is a great way to cut weight and bulk.

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Travel logistics: If you plan to travel from El Calafate to Torres del Paine, keep in mind that the border crossing takes a couple hours because the Chilean customs agents search every bag and backpack that comes through. We later found out that the majority of people get to Torres through Puerto Natales on the Chilean side where there are cheaper transport options and no border crossing hassles. If you plan to visit both Torres and El Chalten, you will eventually have to deal with crossing the border no matter whether you fly into Puerto Natales or El Calafate. Whichever city you fly/bus into, you will find ample opportunities to buy any last minute gear in addition to food and fuel.

At the bus station in El Calafate we learned that the closest any public bus could get us to the park entrance was an unpopulated border crossing ~40 miles from the start of the circuit. We couldn't afford to waste an extra day if we wanted to complete the 6 day circuit of Torres del Paine, have a day in El Calafate to rest, check out the Perrito Moreno glacier and then head north to explore the area around Fitz Roy. Reluctantly, we sucked it up and payed for the private transfer. Always Glaciers, the only tour company in town that offers a direct lift from Calafate to Torres, has realized they are the only game in town and consequently charge $450 pesos ($120 USD) per person for the 4hr bus ride. I have no complaints about the service or the buses, but for that price I feel like I should have gotten dropped off in a helicopter. To provide some context, $450 pesos buys a round trip bus ticket from Buenos Aires to Bariloche that takes ~20hrs.

El Chalten & the Towering Fitz Roy Range

2009-05-15T13:00:00.000-07:00

When people ask me what my favorite part of Argentina is, I can now say without hesitation that it’s El Chalten and the Fitz Roy range. Just hours from the town of El Chalten, the northern part of Parque Nacional los Glacieres is the total package. The terrain is extremely dynamic and unlike any park I have ever visited. Once inside the park you are surrounded by visually stunning features. Turquoise, glacier fed alpine lakes, rivers, hanging glaciers and huge granite rock formation dominate the scenery. The section of the park near El Chalten is also relatively untouched and undeveloped compared to Torres del Paine, and the parks surrounding Lago Argentino. While one of the park's biggest charms is its lack of development, the downside is that there surprisingly few trails to choose from considering its size.
The thing that blows my mind about the Fitz Roy range is its level of accessibility. In just under 3hrs from the El Calafate airport, you can be in El Chalten at the foot of one of the most spectacular mountain ranges in the world. The main trail head begins on the way out of tiny El Chalten, and after only 2hrs of hiking you get to an impressive, panoramic viewpoint. This was hands down the best day hike I have ever done. The only ones that even come close are Half Dome and Cathedral Peak in Yosemite. The photo below was taken just over 1hr from town.
With just 3 days and no shortage of options, we decided to hike from El Chalten to Poincenot, a popular (and free) first come, first serve campsite situated in a grove of trees in the valley below Fitz Roy. There is another free camp site 10min upstream from Poincenot called Rio Blanco, but it's only available to climbers with permits. From Poincenot we set up camp and headed to Laguna de los Tres with day packs to check out the surreal view (opening photo in this post). Laguna de los Tres is one of the park's most popular routes, but there are also plenty of other day hike options in the area.

On our second day we decided to head to Piedra del Fraile and get as far up Cerro Electrico as we could. To get there you can take a taxi 16km from town to to the Rio Electrico bridge or hike 2-3hrs from Poincenot campground. We got a late start and had to turn around at Refugio Los Troncos (pictured below) near the base of Cerro Electrico. From Poincenot to Piedra del Fraile ended up taking 8-9hrs out and back. In order to climb Cerro Electrico we would have needed 5-6 additional hours of daylight which would have required leaving Poincenot at the crack of dawn or staying the night at Refugio Los Troncos. We were told by a couple locals that the views of Fitz Roy from the top of Cerro Electrico are spectacular and well-worth the extra effort.
The maps they gave out at the main park office in town were sufficient for day hikes, but if you plan on going doing any multi-day hiking, I would recommend getting Lonely Planet's Trekking in the Patagonian Andes or Trekking in El Chalten & Lago del Desierto. By now there are just a few places in Argentina I have yet to explore, and I would be shocked if any of them end up replacing the Fitz Roy range as my favorite part of Argentina.

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Vallecitos - Gateway to Cordon del Plata

2009-04-15T15:55:00.000-07:00

Before attempting to climb Aconcagua, many mountaineers head to a small, local ski resort ~1.5hrs outside Mendoza called Valles del Plata (a.k.a. Vallecitos). In the summer the lifts at Vallecitos stop and climbers replace skiers thanks to its proximity to dozens peaks (some over 6,000m) and high camps. Good ‘ole Lonely Planet mentioned that they the Centro de Ski at Vallecitos sells maps and they have guides that can provide directions. Additionally, for just under $20 USD they sell a great guide book for the area called Montañas de Luz by Alejandro Geras. This comprehensive guidebook details routes for each of the area's 12+ peaks, varying from short day hikes to week long expeditions to El Plata (6,050m) which is said to be more difficult and technical than Aconcagua. If your route planning can't wait until you arrive, I would recommend checking out this page on SummitPost.
“Pol”, one of the mountain guides at the lodge was nice enough to explain the which routes we could hike within the 6 hours of remaining daylight. We ended up choosing a 3 peak traverse from Andresito to Arenales to Lomas Blancas (3650m). Before setting out on the 7-10 day ascent of Aconcagua, Vallecitos seems like the perfect place to test our gear and comfort level with heavy physical exertion at such high altitude.
The above image was taken from the Vallecitos ski area site and shows just how expansive and varied this resort really is! Seriously, I think I would be bored to tears if I came back in the winter to ski groomers there. However, the slopes on either side of the valley where the lifts have definite backcountry skiing/riding potential. Their lifts would not help out much in terms of access, but given my experience at other Argentine ski resorts, you would be the only one not following a cat track.

Trekking in Parque Provincial Aconcagua

2009-04-14T13:35:00.000-07:00

Noun: Aconcagua
Definition: mountain in W Argentina, in the Andes: the highest peak in the Western Hemisphere. 22,834 ft. (6960 m). Also known as "the stone sentinel."
Synonyms: Herculean*, Moby, blimp, brobdingnagian*, colossal, cyclopean, elephantine, enormous, gargantuan, giant, gross*, huge, immense, jumbo*, mammoth, massive, monster, monstrous, prodigious, stupendous, super-colossal, titan, tremendous, vast, whopping*
Antonyms: dwarfed, little, miniature, miniscule, small, teeny, tiny

Aconcagua turned from an interest into a fascination during a flight from Santiago to Calama, Chile last August. Calama is the air travel gateway to the Atacama desert in the north. To get there, you trace Chile’s Andean spine from the glacier-covered monsters outside Santiago to the ominous red volcanic cones of the Atacama. Slack jawed and staring out the window, I noticed one peak that stood way above its surroundings and thought to myself “that must be Aconcagua”. Topping out at 6,962m (22,841ft), Aconcagua is the tallest peak in the Americas as well as the southern or western hemispheres. Higher peaks only exist in the Himalaya. A few minutes after I saw what I thought was Aconcagua, a bigger mountain appeared in the distance, surrounded by a horse shoe of similarly daunting peaks. As we passed it, I felt as if our plane was coasting at the same height as the gigantic, beast of a mountain. August in South America is the dead of winter, so at the time, Aconcagua was blanketed in thick layers of snow and ice, making it even more imposing. All I could think was “how the hell does anyone climb that thing?”
As the highest peak in the southern and western hemispheres, Aconcagua is a very popular climbing destination with plenty resources covering the dozen or more routes mostly traveled in the summer months (December to April). According to some mountaineering books and SummitPost articles we have read, there are 3-4 routes that require little-to-no technical climbing skills – just endurance and acclimatization. Pleasantly surprised with our discovery that climbing Aconcagua was within the realm of possibility, we thought we would take a closer look during a long weekend in Mendoza. Below is a map of our route.

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A simple and relatively cheap flight from Buenos Aires’ Aeroparque, Mendoza is an ideal weekend destination. It’s most famous for it’s wineries and amazing food. Many foreigners refer to Mendoza as the Napa Valley of South America. Aside from the world class wine, gourmet food, and laid-back atmosphere of the city, there’s a lot to see and do just 2-3hrs out of town. We went straight from the Mendoza airport to Uspallata – a sleepy, green oasis of a town fed by glacial runoff from the high Andes (pic below). After a heavy, steak laden lunch we rented a pair of wobbly mountain bikes for 5 pesos/hr (< $2 USD) to tour around town. There are miles and miles of relatively flat dirt roads branching out from the center of Uspallata. We only rode around for 3hrs or so, but you could definitely spend a full day riding if you were so inclined. From Ushpallata we headed further west to a little ski resort just outside el Parque Provincial Aconcagua called Los Penitentes. April is the start of fall, so most of the hotels and restaurants in Los Penitentes were closed. Fortunately we came across a refugio a few hundred yards up from the closed hotels that was more than happy to fill their half-empty lodge up. A bunk bed and breakfast in low season cost us each $35 pesos/night. The woman who ran the refugio was extremely friendly and accommodating, which made up for the limp mattresses.
We arrived at the entrance to Parque Provincial Aconcagua (aka Horcones) before any of the park rangers were there and after 2hrs of waiting we proceeded up the trail without the required permit. Given it was fall, we had no daylight to spare and were not sure if any park officials were even going to show up on this holiday weekend. The trail is really straightforward because it’s tracked by thousands of feet and hoofs every year.
The only way to get to Confluencia (first of the base camps pictured above) is by following the Horcones river. From there you can fork NW to Plaza de Mulas or North to Plaza Francia. Plaza de Mulas leads climbers to the west side of Aconcagua’s which is one of the less technical and therefore most popular options. Plaza Francia is located in the cradle of the glacial amphitheater that makes up Aconcagua’s south face. From here a select, bad ass few attempt one of the seemingly vertical routes up this stunning but imposing face.
Setting out from the parking lot, we planned to pass Confluencia and get as close to Plaza Francia as daylight and our legs would allow. Plaza Francia is about 20k from the parking lot so we knew that getting there would be a stretch. Leading up to Plaza Francia, we passed some really cool layered rock formations and a winding glacier that was cloaked in soil and rocks…all with the backdrop of Aconcagua’s south face. We ended up turning around just after the mirador (viewpoint), which is about an hour from “bad ass base camp.” In total, we were out for about 10hrs and covered 35k. I like to look back at this hike as a big, grueling warm-up for what I hope one day will be an amazing sequel. January 2010 at 22,841ft:)

El Calafate & the Perito Moreno Glacier

2009-03-23T14:29:00.000-07:00

Getting to El Calafate was far simpler than I imagined. There are at least 3 flights per day from Buenos Aires Aeroparque to El Calafate as it's a popular tourist destination for both Argentines and foreigners. Given that El Calafate is situated in between Torres del Paine and El Chalten, we decided it would be a good home base for the 2 weeks of touring we had planned. The lodging options in El Calafate vary from camping to 5 star hotels like the famous Estancia Cristina. We ended up choosing Hostal del Glacier and we liked it so much that we came back for a few nights before heading back to Buenos Aires. Hostels del Glacier actually runs 2 places in El Calafate - the older and slightly cheaper Pioneros lodge and the more recently built Libertador location where we stayed.
In between our trips to Torres del Paine and El Chalten, we took a day and a half to rest, wander around town and take an afternoon to tour the Perito Moreno glacier. Because of it's proximity to an airport and overall tourist accessibility, Perito Moreno is by far the most well known and most frequently visited in the southern cone. Of all the glaciers I saw in our 2 week tour of the Southern Patagonia, I wouldn't say Perito Moreno was the most impressive, but it's certainly worth the half day trip. From the viewing platforms you can clearly see and hear the truck-sized blocks of ice cracking off the wall and into Lago Argentino.

For me, one of the most entertaining parts of visiting Perito Moreno was witnessing the hundreds of tourists, young and old, from all parts of the world, watching and waiting in silence for the ice to fall. All of a sudden everyone's heads would turn in the direction of a thundering boom, hands frantically trying to capture the fleeting moment on film and groups of tourists commenting in a spectrum of languages. As the small islands of glacial ice bobbed the water, the Argentine tourists would lead the crowd in a refined applause as if they just witnessed a birdie at a golf tournament.
Visiting Perito Moreno: Hostels del Glacier organizes an "alternative glacier tour" that includes a back road route to the glacier with some excellent photo ops, a short hike to a panoramic view point, a few hours at the viewing deck and a 1hr boat ride that traverses Perito Moreno's crystal blue face. This tour was smaller, cheaper and more laid back than some of the more traditional companies that bring hundreds of leather jacket and jewelry-clad tourists to the glacier every day. In terms of boat tours on Lago Argentino, Fernandez Campbell seemed to be the main outfit in the area. They must have a "mutually beneficial" relationship with the local government. There are some smaller companies that organize private, high-end cruises based on demand, but if you just want to get up close to the glaciers for a better view, Fernandez Campbell's 1hr ride is a great value.

A wonderfully bizarre Sunday in Buenos Aires

2009-03-22T15:07:00.000-07:00

Living in Buenos Aires has been a continuous string of highs and lows. Some people who read my previous post assumed that I am unhappy here, but that's far from the case. I love living here, and sometimes the things that annoy me the most are the same things that help me understand the intricacies of Porteño culture and society. Last Sunday was a glowing example of the ups and downs of living in BsAs.
Late Saturday night, I went out with a big group of friends to Osaka - arguably the best sushi/seafood restaurant in the city. Buenos Aires is not a city known for it's seafood, and certainly not its sushi, in part because it has only recently become a popular here. Osaka is truly an oasis of flavor and creativity in a world of steak and potatoes. They call themselves "Peruvian-Japanese fusion" and it's no hole in the wall secret. You usually need to call days and sometimes weeks ahead of time to get at table on a Friday or Saturday night. We showed up at 10pm - early by Porteño standards - with our fingers crossed. By some miracle got seated at an great table 20min later. We hung out there ordering drinks and sushi rolls until 1:30am. Try doing that in the US!

After Osaka, we headed to a really cool bar named Godoy in Palermo Hollywood with a unique indoor/outdoor setup situated right next to an old train yard. It was a warm, beautiful night and the patio was packed with a fun, stylish, mostly single crowd. I am continuously amazed with the night life in Buenos Aires. There is always a new bar or club to go and tons of great spots worth returning.
Looking to shake the "went to bed at 5am" haze I was in, I decided to go work out. We belong to a chain of gyms called Megatlon and the only one that's open on Sunday's is the Barrio Norte location. It's sufficient, but they don't exactly run and maintain it to the same standards as other locations such as Recoleta and Alto Palermo. This Sunday, like every other Sunday that I trick myself into going to the gym, I see the most tragic, disturbing transvestite fumbling around with the free weights. She is typically wearing street clothes, and by street clothes I mean street corner clothes. Tights, platform shoes, miniskirt, wig, the full deal. Additionally, she smells like a gutter. I know that sounds mean, but it's the smell that jumps to mind. This makes sense because my girlfriend saw her sleeping in a nearby doorway on the way home from a night out. I feel really bad for her as it must be really hard to survive day-to-day living that kind of life. But when she arrives everyone in "nose shot" slowly scatters away, keeping her in their peripheral out of sheer, morbid curiosity. The mostly young, working class male members of this gym are anything but thin-skinned, or easily shocked but is just impossible to ignore.
There is another regular Sunday gym-goer who calls slightly less attention to himself, but to me is even more disturbing than the transvesti. I like to call this guy "Capitan Pañuelos" (diapers), for his pirate bandanna and the way he rolls his already short shorts into his underwear. To compliment his man diaper, he sports 1 (sometimes 2) leather weight belts around his waist and gloves. The Capitan must be convinced this is a pretty great look given how much time he spends admiring himself in the mirror. At first I thought he was just an old, eccentric, gay guy who really likes to show off his legs, but his exponential creepiness leads me to think that he is actually a child-abducting pirate. It's the only logical explanation. Unfortunately for the rest of the people in the gym, he just can't pry himself away from the leg sled, thy machine and dips bar. This past Sunday I looked up after finishing a set to see him doing leg overhead hamstring stretches right in front of me. I almost threw up in my mouth. Between the homeless transvesti and Capitan Pañuelos, it's hard not to be grossed out by the weight bench I just finished using.
That same Sunday on our way home from the gym we ran into a typical Sunday scene on Santa Fe street; Argentines taking their elderly relatives for a stroll, leisurely walking their dogs or enjoying a coffee at one of the countless sidewalk cafes. We also saw an old man sitting along the sidewalk calmly thumbing through a gay porn magazine, an equally pornographic aerobics video playing in the store front window of an electronics shop and an odd looking mother daughter pair who looked like they just went through a gas station car wash. This all happened in a span of 5min.

Buenos Aires is a lot of things, but it's never boring or predictable. I need to find more opportunities to break out my camera and capture some of these "truth is stranger than fiction" images.

Yes, the Steak IS that good!

2009-02-15T15:20:00.000-08:00

In Letterman-like form, I put together my own "Top 10" list of things I have come to realize during my brief, but eventful time living in Buenos Aires. I don't claim to be an expert, but if nothing else this list reflects an outsider's perception of some of the idiosyncratic elements of life in Buenos Aires.
1) Curb your pet laws do not exist. Consequently, when walking around the city, I find myself looking down at my feet rather than my surroundings in order to avoid the scattered land mines of poo. The Palermo and Recoleta neighborhoods are particularly dangerous as that's where highest concentration of little drop-kick, purse dogs seem to live. Actually, it's hard to say where the majority of Buenos Aires' estimated 400,000 dogs because Porteños love their pets. You could say it's an obsession. Near my old apartment in Recoleta, there were more pet shops than hardware stores. Never a good sign, unless you are a vet.
2) Protesting is national pastime. Sure, Argentine's watch as much fútbol as any other South American country, but the greatest displays of passion I have witnessed are in regular demonstrations throughout Buenos Aires. Some protests are mellow, whereas others border on violent, but it amazes me how common they are. So common in fact, that most people, including the taxi drivers rarely know what they are even for. I have seen protests that block up Buenos Aires' biggest intersection just to cause traffic jams and general chaos. Across the street from my apartment, a mob of young people blocked the doors outside a company's office until 2am, yelling things like "come out you cowardly son of a bitch" and "go to hell, your mother is a #@%*!" all while banging drums, pots and telephone poles. Other protests just include a few hundred people strolling down a main street on a Tuesday afternoon to get some media attention. Argentines protest for good reason; the party that has been in power for the last few decades (Peronistas) is shady. In 2001, they openly seized approximately 2/3 of its citizens' savings after defaulting on government debt and they will likely do the same with retirement accounts soon. Unfortunately, as far as I can tell, the dissent gets ignored by the government and therefore fails to bring about real change.
3) Banking is a nightmare. When I say banking, I don't just mean going to the bank to make a deposit, I mean anything that even in some remote way involves the banking system. Need to withdraw more than the ATM permits? Ok, wait in a line to get a code, to talk to some guy, fill out some paperwork, wait in another line, only to get your cash 3hrs later. Want to buy plane tickets online? Give us your card number, then call your bank a week later and confirm the "test" change amount, then call back between certain hours to confirm your ticket in a about week. I use a supposedly international bank (Citi), but even they are smothered by the weight of the Argentine government's bureaucracy. I have never seen a bank so dependent on stacks of paper and rubber stamps. Citi does have online banking, but in order to pay a bill, I have to go to the branch where my account was opened and fill out a form so they can authorize the transfer. I admire how patient Argentines are with this painfully inefficient system not to mention the severe lack of available credit.
4) In the wealthy barrios of Buenos Aires, many women aspire to look like a 26 year old forever. If you are 16 year old girl, you try to dress like your older sister. If you are 45, you dress like your daughter. On the bright side, I guess it saves clothing manufacturers from designing clothes for multiple generations. It seems to me that if you are a woman in BsAs with money (or a good health plan), it's totally common to start getting work done as soon as soon are you are 16. "What do you want for your sweet 16 pumpkin? A car, jewelry, a nose job or fake boobs?" Then comes a second round of work once you hit 35. By work I mean face lifts, new boobs, collagen, butt cheeks, whatever. One of the most popular, private health plans includes one "estético" or cosmetic surgery per year. I know because I have that plan. It's like one of those annual George Bush tax rebate forms, but in silicon form.
5) The US has Smog Checks for a reason. I never thought I would say this, but I now love the DEQ. A Porteño friend of mine told me there are emission standards in the city of Buenos Aires, but that old vehicles and buses are exempt. Awesome. So they test all the cars and new vehicles, but not the city's thousands of dilapidated Mercedes buses. I try to hold my breath and close my eyes at street corners in order to aviod getting blasted with waves of smoke and exhaust from some oil burning, 1970s era truck. That can't be good for your health. Next time I have to go get a smog check, I will sit and wait patiently with a huge grin on my face.
6) There is one price for locals, and another for gringos. Non Argentines seem to get charged more for almost everything. From flights to produce, and from rent to rail tickets; discriminatory pricing is rampant. It's annoying for flights, however I can see the rationale. In order to encourage tourism among Argentines, the airlines (especially Aerolíneas Argentinas) provide a discounted rate to citizens and make up for it by overcharging tourists. Airline tickets are one thing, but groceries are another thing all together. When I go to a small store where they don't put prices on the goods (very common), I often get quoted more than my Argentine neighbor. In terms of grocery stores, it's a minimal difference, but it tends to leave a sour taste in my mouth.

7) Lanes don't matter, and neither do pedestrians. If you are on foot, drivers see you as an expendable obstacle (kind of like a living, breathing traffic cone). Those who expect pedestrian right of way learn quick or leave on a stretcher. You could say the same about NYC, but it just seems a little more unnerving here.
8) Buenos Aires is a 1st world city, run by a 3rd world government. Argentina and especially Buenos Aires has SO much potential to be one of the worlds most advanced centers of commerce. Argentina's high level of education, fastidious work ethic, and vast natural resources mixed with a uniquely diverse and rich culture create an environment ripe for success. Unfortunately, "la reina" Christina Kirchner and her crippling, archaic government and broken economic policies have placed Argentina's economy in a straight jacket.
9) They are called the Malvinas dammit! Whatever you do, don't refer to the English controlled islands off the Atlantic coast of Argentina as the Falklands. I know, that's what is says on any map printed outside Argentina, but calling Las Islas Malvinas the Falklands will get you into an argument real quick! Argentines consider the islands to be rightfully theirs and hate the Brits for being there. Long story, but if you are interested, check out the history on Wikipedia.
10) And, Yes. The steak IS that good. The ice cream is pretty amazing too:) Everyone seems to have different theories about why Argentine beef is the best in the world. Some think it's the breeding, some believe it's the fact that they are grass (not corn) fed, some claim it's because they are mostly all free-range. Either way, there is no comparison.

I'll have the rabbit wok, but without outbreaks of soybean

2008-12-15T11:00:00.000-08:00

Special of the day - "Gnocchi Landfills with Ham"

As a fair skinned, blond haired guy living in South America, I constantly get handed English language menus when I sit down at a restaurant, especially ones in touristy areas. This usually annoys me because I can speak Spanish, or at least I like to think so. The upside of always getting handed menus in English is that I get the pleasure of reading some unbelievably strange translations. When I went to Salta with my family earlier this month, my gringoness was awarded with the most poorly translated menu ever. Don't take me for a nit picker here - I'm not talking about misspellings or slight misinterpretations. This one was downright comical.

After reading the above page, I started to wonder if they guy who got paid to translate the menu had some bad blood with the owner of the restaurant. Stuffed > Landfills I can see, but how do you get to "outbreaks of soybean"? And "Crashes"? What kind of vegetable could that possibly be? I was so intrigued that I decided to order it just to see what I would get. I decided on the Italian Wok with outbreaks of soybean, which ended up being pasta drowned in a thick, pasty soy-based sauce. I may have well just ordered a block of salt. At that point I started to believe that the same guy who translated the menu was in the kitchen messing with everyone's orders. A culinary terrorist!

Exploring the Ruins at Machupicchu, Peru

2008-10-16T09:41:00.000-07:00

Still half asleep, we queued up for the shuttle to Machupicchu just as daylight began tricking into the small town of Aguas Calientes. Located deep in the precipitous canyons below Machupicchu and straddling the Urubamba river, Aguas Calientes is not a particularly interesting or unique town. However, it has conveniently become the requisite overnight stop for visitors to Machupicchu arriving by train from Cusco. As we filed into the back of a 200+ person line we realized we were far from the only visitors with that idea . The tourist buses begin running at 6am and it's a good idea to show up just before then in order to enter Machupicchu during the sunrise. Although very overpriced, the shuttle system is a well-oiled machine, with plenty of direction and 10-15 empty buses waiting to take tourists up to Machupicchu's entrance. Alternatively there is a trail you can take that gets to the same place, but it's about 4mi straight uphill and takes somewhere around 2.5hrs. I'm not much of a morning person, and I really wanted to see the sunrise, so walking was not an option. We got to the ruins around 6:30am and were among the first couple hundred people through the gate around 7am.

I had thought about what it would be like to walk through the gates for the first time at many points along the 6 day trek, but I couldn't have imagined how visually overwhelming it would be to duck under Machupicchu's stone entrance. The dark, clean-cut granite and mossy green lawns illuminated by the phosphorescent sunrise was a visual that surpassed my wildest imagination. The soggy, cloudy weather of the previous days had me worries, but by some amazing stroke of luck the storm passed overnight and we got an almost cloudless day. After all the time, money and effort it takes to get to Machupicchu, a patch of bad weather can really spoil your visit. If you go, make sure to plan at least 2 days in Aguas Calientes in case of bad weather. If you get lucky, you can always leave early or spend an additional relaxing andenjoying the scenery. By the end of my day in Machupicchu, I had spent about 9hrs at the ruins - 2 on a guided tour, 3 round trip to the top of Huaynapicchu and the final 4 leisurely wandering around, soaking it all in. The following video is a panorama of the Machupicchu's main plaza with Huaynapicchu immediately in the background.

If you ever plan to visit Machupicchu, I highly recommend taking the extra effort to climb Huaynapicchu. They only take a allow 400 visitors to access the trail to the summit each day - 200 when the ruins first open at 7am and another 200 at 10am, which is the time the first group is supposed to be back down. You need to get in line early to get one of the 400 passes before they run out. It takes most people 40min to an hour to get to the top, and about 15-20 to get down. After trekking for 6 days, it was challenging, but far from hard. I did it in about 26min:) Climbing Huaynapicchu was definitely the highlight of the time I spent in the ruins. Not only does it give you a spectacular perspective of the ruins, but it allows you to see the entire range of peaks that surround Machupicchu like a lush, overgrown crown. I took this video from the top of Huaynapicchu.

One side note. The majority of people who work for the historical site, from the employees at the ticket booth to the ones who patrol the ruins were rude and a general pain in the ass to deal with. I understand that dealing with tourists every day must get annoying, but that's no excuse for an attitude that could be summed up as "it our way or go f#@! yourself!" I was saddened to experience this becuase every other person I came across in Peru was the exact opposite - extremely warm, helpful and patient.

Salcantay Trek to Machupicchu

2008-10-14T15:39:00.000-07:00

There are as many ways to get to Machupicchu as there are types of travelers who flock to the renowned Inka site. The majority of tourists take a train or bus from Cusco to Aguas Calientes and then either walk or bus up to the site. In my opinion, the only reasons to bus it up there are a) you only have one day in Aguas Calientes b) you are on crutches or c) you have the energy and motivation of a three-toed sloth. I remember hearing an out-of-breath American woman say to her Peruvian guide after getting off the bus at the entrance to Machupicchu "I can't do any hills, but I'm fine to walk around...just as long as it's flat". Lady, are you f*ing kidding me! Didn't you see any pictures of Machupicchu before planning your vacation? Simply walking around the ruins is about the physical equivalent of 2hrs on the StairMaster.

For those who are interested in a more active route to Machupicchu, you can join everything from 2 day treks that stay in lodges, to remote, environmentally diverse 7 day treks that stay in tents. The majority of people who hike, do a 2-4day guided trip along the Inka trail (Camino Inka). The only catch is that the Peruvian government recently limited the number of people on the trail, so you need to reserve a spot 3-4mo in advance. Fortunately, there are many other trekking options to get to Machupicchu that don't require a reservation, like Lares, Salcantay and Vilcabamba among others. Almost all these treks can be booked and paid for as little as 48hrs beforehand. If you are not in a rush, or don't need to start the Inka Trail on a specific day, booking in Cusco as soon as you arrive is a reliable and less expensive option. Hence, the "I couldn't get a pass for the Inka trail, so I'm forced to take the bus" excuse that I heard was a cop out.
The potential complications of a transportation strike forced us to leave Cusco a half day earlier than expected, but fortunately we got a bit of a head start on the first segment of our trek. Many of the Salcantay Treks start from Mollepata, walking up into the hills just outside of town. While this can be scenic, the "trail" is really a rough dirt road that gets quite a bit of use from the locals living just up the hill from Mollepata. Even from our first campsite, we had to walk along this road for 2-3hrs before we came to the trail that ascends the Salcantay valley. If I were doing this again, I would look for a tour that started up the hill from Mollepata in Sayllapata, which happens to be near the site of the first lodge. There is no need to spend half a day trudging uphill along a rural dirt road.

Our campsite for the second night was located in one of the most scenic spots we came across on the entire trek. It was surrounded by snow-capped peaks in a large, flat area before the ascent to Salcantay pass. The altitude made this night undoubtedly the coldest of the 5 nights, but the view and location were surreal. Before heading to sleep, I saw Salcantay briefly break through the thick, moonlit cloud cover. I didn't realize it at the time, but that would be the first and only time I saw Salcantay on the trek.
The next day was the longest and most challenging we had. We started with a steep ascent that lasted for close to 3hrs, followed by a slightly flatter approach to Salcantay pass - the highest point of the trek at 5,600 meters. The top of Salcantay Pass is supposed to be a major highlight of the trek because of the view you get of Salcantay and the surrounding range. Unfortunately for us, it was socked in for miles in every direction due to a sudden snow storm, making it impossible to see more than 100ft in front of you. From there we descended for another 2hrs to our lunch spot, where we did our best to dry off from the soaking wet weather. Still soaked to the bone, we descended through muddy alpine fields into a flourishing cloud forest, through the haze and finally to Collpapampa in the lush, clammy river valley where we spent our 3rd night.

On day 4 we were excited and relieved to wake up to clear weather. Our clothes were still soaked and covered in mud from descending through the rain forest, but once we got moving, everything dried out really quickly. The fourth day was somewhat of a rest day between two long, elevation heavy days of trekking. After 3-4hrs of relatively mellow hiking, we ended up in a little bus stop of a town called La Playa.
In Mexico, Spain, Costa Rica and every other Spanish-speaking country I have visited, playa means only one thing - the beach. However, in much of South America (Peru and Argentina included), "playa" is short for "playa de estacionar" or parking lot. Here is was thinking we were going to camp on a sandy area next to a river, but it turned out to be a noisy, dirty Peruvian ghetto. Thanks Llamapath - way to hook it up! When we arrived to La Playa, it was packed with trekking groups waiting to get picked up by vans and taken to nearby Santa Teresa. My advice to anyone considering doing the Salcantay trek - go with one of these groups! As the afternoon winded down, the crowds dissipated and we were one of two groups left to camp among the chickens, stray dogs and noisy collectivos (public buses) of La Playa. I was awoken numerous times that night to what sounded like a rabid dog with emphysema followed by bus horns and finally a high school band. The only upside to La Playa is the little grocery store selling beer and wine and a lukewarm shower you can use for 8 soles. Other than that, I can say with confidence that La Playa was the worst place I have ever had to spend the night.

Even though I knew we had a long, steep day ahead of us, I was ecstatic to get the hell out of La Playa and finish up our last day of trekking. Day 5 was exhausting, but the views made it all worth it. After 4hrs of straight climbing, we arrived at Llactapata, a stunning Inka ruin with a perfect view of Machupicchu in the distance. Llactapata is roughly at the same elevation as Machupicchu, giving us a really unique preview of what we were about to see the following day.
The 5th day, while challenging, was by far the most enjoyable segment of our trek. All along the way to Llactapata, you are rewarded with excellent, panoramic views of the Urubamba river valley and on the way down, you see the Machupicchu peak (not the ruins), the Inka bridge and a very unique man-made waterfall pouring out of a rock face. From the ruins of Llactapata, we descended to the Hidroelectrica train station, which was our trek's final destination. There have been few times in my life where I felt such an exhausted, grateful sense of accomplishment as the moment I sat down in the shade to an amazing lunch and a beer at the end of a 60kms trek. The trek was long and at times difficult and uncomfortable, but I really enjoyed being exposed to such an amazing variety of micro climates, weather, and terrain. The Salcantay trek is an exceptional way to experience Peru.

Rafting the Apurimac, Peru

2008-10-06T08:05:00.000-07:00

There are 2 major, commercially rafted rivers outside Cusco; the Urubamba and the Apurimac. Rafting is one of the more popular adventure activities in the Cusco area, and for good reason. The Urubamba is only a couple hours from Cusco and while it's not too technical (class II, some III), it's really scenic and makes for a great day trip. The Apurimac, or "speaking god" in Quechua, is nothing less than the real deal. It's one of the 8 main tributaries of the Amazon and slices through a profound, granite canyon with walls up to 3,000 meters deep. Our river guides all claimed that the Apurimac is one of the top 10 commercially rafted rivers in the world. While I have been unable to find any sort of "official" list that verifies this claim, it was definitely the fastest, most technical river I have gotten the chance to run. My trip was in early October, the end of Cusco's dry season and the beginning of the heavy rains that take over in November. One thing I didn't realize before I got to Peru is that most of the country only experiences two seasons in a year. Southern Peru is either cold and dry (very cold in Cusco as it's at 10,000ft) or warm and wet. While northern Peru is much more tropical, it has a similar wet or dry climate.

According to our guides, most commercial rafting companies run the Apurimac from May/June through November because during the rainy season the speed height of the river are unpredictable (think flash floods). April is usually the time of year when the Apurimac is at it's peak, converting some of the mellow class II and III rapids into legitimate class IV, V and even class VI rapids. Some tour companies may still run the Apurimac when it's at its peak, but I would hesitate to go with anyone but the most experienced, well equipped outfitter. The water level when we ran it was fairly low, making some of the hyped class IV and V rapids too exposed and dangerous to pass. Looking up at the enormous polished granite canyon walls, it was humbling to think of how fast and powerful the Apurimac could get. We were forced to portage around 4 of the larger rapids instead of the usual 1-2 class VI rapids that no commercial outfit runs. This was really disappointing, but after seeing some of these narrow, churning, hydrolic-laden rapids, my disappointment mostly disappeared.

It didn't help that for the majority of the 20 people on the trip, this was their first time rafting. I was shocked when during the safety explanation, only 7 people raised their hand when asked if they had any experience rafting. That's kinda like going to a ski resort for the first time and immediately trying to go down a double black diamond. Oh wait...that happens every day. The consequences on a river as big and remote as the Apurimac are no joke. It would take a rescue helicopter 3-4hrs to respond to an emergency and even then you would have to get to the top of the canyon, which could be upwards of 3,000 meters above the riverbed. By the end of our trip, we got to run 3 class IV rapids, one of which was usually a class V, but was far more mellow with the lower water level.

If you are thinking about going rafting in the Cusco area, there are a handful of rafting outfitters, but far fewer options than you will find when trying to book a trek to Machu Picchu. AndeanTravelWeb.com was by far the best resource I found for researching what to do and which guide companies. The Lonely Planet has some high level tips, but they tend to focus more on trekking than anything else. The four guide companies I kept coming across were, Amazonas Explorer, Apumayo Expeditions, Eric Adventures and Mayuc. The Lonely Planet will tell you that Mayuc "has recently had serious safety problems", but the vast majority of reviews on Trip Advisor were quite positive. I also learned that there is another guide company named Swiss Rafting, but that a few years ago, an Israeli woman had died on one of their Apurimac trips. Eric Adventures got some less than favorable reviews on Trip Advisor, and when I went into their office, I had an awkward interaction with a representative that didn't seem to know much of anything about what their trip involved. After reading about all the different variations of Apurimac trips that you can do, I felt that the 3day/2night variation would be ideal. Amazonas Explorer and Apumayo are more high-end, but run far fewer trips in a given month. Mayuc ended up being the only outfit that had a trip for the dates I wanted and they were far cheaper than their competitors. I saw some 4/5 day Apurimac trips for around $3,000 USD and other 3day/2night trips for $500-$800 USD. Mayuc was $490 Soles per person, which comes out to just over $160 USD. Kinda sounded too good to be true, but overall it was a great experience - especially for the price. Throughout the 3 days, I felt safe, trusted the guides and the equipment (although the gear was a bit worn) and felt the food was more than sufficient. The Mayuc guides told me that the difference in cost between the trips they run and the more expensive ones comes down to 2 things - food and alcohol. Apparently some of the higher priced guide companies include more gourmet meal options and bring beer/wine, but I was never hungry and thanks to the foresight of the Irishmen in our group, were far from thirsty. My advice - spend a few Soles on some drinks and save yourself a ton of money.

For me, the highlights of the Apurimac trip were the cliff jumps and the ultra-scenic campsites. Both nights of the trip, our campsites were located on picturesque, soft sand beaches that were only accessible by river. Our second site was especially impressive, located opposite a towering, polished granite cliff that seemed like 6 El Caps lined up side by side. One of the rock formations near our campsite dropped cleanly into the water, making it a perfect 15ft jumping platform. Towards the end of our last day, our guides made a quick stop at a big rock formation so we could jump into the green pool below.

Las Leñas - Argentina's off piste paradise

2008-09-16T13:30:00.000-07:00

Located near the Chilean border, about 500km outside the city of Mendoza, Las Leñas is widely considered to be Argentina's premier ski resort. Las Leñas stands out from other South American resorts because of two key factors:
1) Elevation and therefore drier snow. Las Leñas has ~4,000ft of vertical starting at a base of 7,350ft.
2) World-class out of bounds (a.k.a. off-piste) terrain that is lift accessible.

Having skied at Las Leñas, Valle Nevado and Catedral in Bariloche, I would have to agree that Las Leñas is the superior resort. While the larger Catedral has more lifts and is near Bariloche, which is a decent-sized town with plenty going on outside the resort, the snow conditions are more variable and the terrain in geared towards beginners and intermediates. Valle Nevado is slightly higher than Las Leñas and it's a great, modern "resort" in the typical sense, but the terrain is nowhere near as unique or challenging as Las Leñas. Additionally, as I mentioned in my previous posting about Valle Nevado, you are far more likely to die on the road up to Valle Nevado than if you were to huck a 20ft cliff with a blindfold on. Ok, moving on...

As a resort, Las Leñas is not especially old (they were celebrating their 25th anniversary this season), but don't expect anything modern by North American or European standards. For example, there are no high-speed lifts, only one quad, and the majority of the lifts consist of 2-person chairs or t-bars. Additionally, the infamous 2-person chair named "Marte", is the only lift that gets you towards the top of the skiable terrain. When it's windy, this lift is usually closed, thereby shutting off the majority of the best sections of the resort. That said, the terrain is like nothing North America can offer, the snow is consistently good, and there are enough out of bounds skiing options to keep even the most advanced riders busy for weeks.

We came to Las Leñas in mid September, which is near the very end of their season. The upside of late August or early September is that the rates were lower and it's more likely to be sunny and warm - like spring skiing in Tahoe. The downside is that much of the snow had melted and the window for good conditions was between 10am and 3pm - in other words, after the ice and before the slush. We got lucky with 3 days of clear, sunny weather and no wind. One of my friends who has been to Las Leñas a handful of times said that the wind can be so strong that it can blow away a fresh dump of snow in just a day. It snowed ~6in two days before we arrived, which made for a great first day, but by the end of our second day, the warm afternoon temperatures turned much of the snow into peanut butter. They do a good job at grooming, so even though most of the out of bounds areas were sloppy and heavy, you could finish up your runs with some nice groomers. Vulcano, which is right below some of the gnarliest chutes and bowls has some particularly nice corduroy into late in the afternoon.

For me, the highlights of my trip to Las Leñas were Paraiso and the ultra sketchy, but thrilling chutes that drop you from Marte Iris down to Vulcano (photo of enterance above). Paraiso is a winding, fairly wide-open field that descends all the way down to the road that leads to Las Leñas. On a powder day, it would be a hundred turns of sweet, perma-grin glory to the road, but you have the option to traverse back to Vulcano or Urano and avoid the hichhike back to the base.

The photo below was the entrance for the chute run I mentioned above. First you shimmy through a throat that's about as wide as your skis, then down a very steep, rock lined chute, across a saddle to a 3rd adrenaline inducing chute and finally to two epic side-by-side bowls. This run was scary, exhilarating and exhausting - the perfect last run to finish off of my extended ski season.

Logistics: At Las Leñas, the season runs from late June to late September, with July/August being the peak. To get to Las Leñas, you can either fly to the small town of Malargüe and take a 90min transfer, fly into Mendoza and take a 5-7hr bus ride, or take a 14-16hr overnight bus ride from Buenos Aires. We took the overnight bus from Buenos Aires, which was surprisingly comfortable, but not the best option if you only have a 7-10 days.

Like Bariloche, the accommodations in Las Lenas were far better than the lifts. Las Lenas has a variety of nice hotels and apartments, most of which are ski in, ski out.

For those of you who decide to visit, here is some helpful vocab:
pista = ski run, slope
esquiar = to ski
esquí(s) = ski(s)
tabla = snowboard
nieve = snow
hielo = ice
poma = t-bar
doblar = to turn
fuera de pista = out of bounds
silla (short for telesilla) = chairlift
bache = mogul
botas = boots
casco = helmet
bastones = poles

Valle Nevado, Chile

2008-08-29T23:10:00.000-07:00

After reluctantly checking out of our awesome surf side hotel in Vina del Mar, we headed back across Santiago to a small mountain town called Farellones located at the base of a group of 4 local ski resorts. The resorts are Farellones, La Parva, El Colorado and Valle Nevado. Farellones is tiny and geared towards beginners. La Parva caters to a high-end crowd of rich Chileans who want something closer to Santiago. El Colorado is just above Farellones and both La Parva and El Colorado connect to Valle Nevado via joint lift tickets. Looking at the trail maps and photos, I don’t see how La Parva, Farellones or El Colorado can even compare to Valle Nevado. The only downside of Valle Nevado is that the road to the main lodge is a treacherous death-trap. It’s a narrow, ribbon of a road, littered with potholes and rocks that slowly and steeply winds it’s way up to the main lodge. We were driving a Pugeot 203 – a small 4 door, 4-cylinder compact car that required chains to get through the last 4-5mi.

Next to my van driving debacle in Mallorca, this was the scariest driving experience of my life. I can’t imagine doing this drive once a year, let alone on a regular basis. Vans routinely come speeding up and down this road with little to no regard for the other cars on the road. They literally played chicken with me, except that I’m not even sure you could call it chicken when you have no intention of moving over to avoid the other. It was definitely a “my (car) is bigger than yours” moment. This caught me off guard because in general, Chileans drive really conservatively and courteously compared to their Argentine neighbors. People at the ski resort were even fairly mellow and didn’t try any of the line cutting or ski tip crossing bull shit like we encountered at Cerro Catedral near Bariloche.

All in all, the resort, the lifts, and the snow were excellent. There was a good variety of terrain, logical run placement, grooming, cat tracks and intermittent lifts to get you back where you needed to be. Once you are there, Valle Nevado is world class – I just can’t imagine having to go through what we went through just for a day on the slopes. Another aspect to consider is that there are very few lodging options in Farellones and even fewer in Valle Nevado. The few lodging options that exist are mediocre at best and exorbitantly expensive – to the point where it’s downright insulting. For example, Hotel Farellones charges $250 USD/night (in low season) for a cramped, motel-esque room with two lumpy, single beds and a private bathroom. For all of Cerro Catedral’s faults, they had everything from luxurious slope side lodges to dozens of hotel and hotels options 20 min away in Bariloche.

If I go back it will be for at least a week and I would most certainly look to share a house/cabin rental with a group of friends. That way you could avoid all the lodging pitfalls as well as the need for a rental car and still explore all the lift accessible terrain surrounding the areas mapped out below. With the right gear, skins and maybe a guide, you could get to some epic spots.

Chile's awe inspiring Atacama Desert

2008-08-25T22:29:00.000-07:00

Exhausted from two weeks of apartment hunting followed by long, bi-lingual work days in Buenos Aires, Karen and I headed off to Chile for 11 days. We arrived in Santiago and spent half a day exploring the city on foot, before taking a flight the next morning to Calama in the north. Calama is far from a destination, but rather the closest airport to the Atacama Desert, just 1hr away. Over the past decade, tourism in the Atacama has boomed, turning the dusty little desert town of San Pedro de Atacama into a popular destination bursting at the seams with European tourists.

Chile’s Atacama desert and the volcanoes that border it’s eastern side (Las Cordilleras de Los Andes) is a very remote and exceptionally unique environment. It’s similar to some high desert areas of the United States as it starts at about 8,000ft, but what sets it apart is its intense geothermic and volcanic activity. Overall, Chile has 10% of the world’s volcanoes and the Cordillera range contains about a dozen volcanoes over 18,000ft tall. We spent 5 really active days in San Pedro de Atacama, doing an alpine lake tour, a geyser tours, mountain biking through Valle de la Luna and two full-day climbing trips up Volcan Lascar and Sairecabur, 17,500ft and 19,000ft respectively.

To me, the climbing was by far the most exciting and memorable part of our time in the Atacama. What made these two climbs so challenging, was not the trail, but the altitude. For Lascar, we started at 14,000ft and climbed up to almost 18,000fr over 6hrs. For Sairecabur, we started at nearly the peak of Lascar (17,500ft) and went up to 19,000ft. Before these climbs, the highest I had ever been was ~13,500 on our way over Mt. Whitney. Even though I had a couple days to acclimate to the altitude, when we climbed Lascar, I became intimately familiar with the effects of altitude sickness. One of the overwhelming symptoms was dizziness followed by a pounding migraine headache caused by a lack of oxygen to the brain. The Sairecabur climb three days later was still very difficult, but the symptoms I felt were far less that Lascar. I never realized how important it is to focus on rhythmic breathing at that altitude. Not only does it help keep your heart rate under control, but it provides your body, and more importantly your brain with the oxygen it needs.