With this version we’ve added a huge amount of features that were highly requested by you, our customers. And even more features are coming very soon!

Let’s see what we have in Visual Watermark v3 right now.

10 New Watermark Templates

Now you can create watermarks containing your name, logo, website, phone number, or various combinations of this information. And, of course, all these new templates support the auto-scale feature, which automatically adjusts watermark size and position on every photo.

Here is what you’ll be able to do with Visual Watermark v3:

Hundreds of New Built-in Fonts 

Visual Watermark v3 ships with 256 new fonts ready-to-use in your watermarks. Forget about boring fonts – now you can choose from tons of font styles to better express your individuality!

Curly, hand-written, foreign-looking, techno, gothic, basic and much more.

Refined User Interface

We simplified our application to make it even more intuitive, and here is how:

• Straightforward navigation. In this new UI you always know where to go next and how to return back if you need to adjust something. Visual Watermark v3 consists of 4 screens, each having its own purpose.
• Better watermark editor. It becomes much easier to move and resize a watermark or its parts. The Configuration screen never overlaps a watermark – we placed it on the right side of the screen, so both a watermark and its configuration screen are always visible.
• Watermark previews. Choosing a watermark has never been so easy. All watermark types are listed as thumbnails, and also we load your recently used template, so you don’t have to create it from scratch.
• Saving history. The new version remembers your output folder, format preferences and resizing settings when you quit the application. You won’t need to re-configure them next time you run it.

Watermark Rotation and More…

We always love to hear feedback from you. You asked – and we did it!

Now, you can rotate your watermarks using a slider on the configuration screen. If a watermark consists of several parts, all of them can be rotated simultaneously.

A glass-like and “drop shadow” watermark effects are coming soon in a free v3.5 update.

Prepare Photos for Online Publishing

Publishing low-resolution images online is a good idea to protect your originals. That is why we added the capability to downsize and upscale your photos when watermarking.

Now, you can watermark and reduce image resolution at the same time – so that you’ll need only to upload the resulting photos to your web site.

Blazing-Fast Image Loading

In Visual Watermark v3 we introduced new algorithms of loading photos into the application. With this improvement, now it takes only a couple of seconds where it took a couple of minutes in Visual Watermark v2.

Import from iPhoto

You no longer need to export your images from iPhoto before using them in Visual Watermark.

Visual Watermark v3 correctly supports all iPhoto libraries.

Missing Features

We worked hard for this release and did our best to implement as much features as possible. However, even more features are coming soon.

One of them is integration with Facebook and Google Plus (probably, the most anticipated one) – will be released this summer in v3.5. Also, we are planning to release a glass-like appearance and a drop shadow filter for Mac. These features are already available to our Windows customers, and I feel we need them urgently for the Mac version too.

All these things will be rolled out as soon as they are ready. So, expect a minor update with Facebook, then another for G+ and so on every couple of weeks. All of them will be free to all v3 customers.

New Visual Watermark won’t work on OS X 10.6. I regret about this loss because it is still a very good OS and it works faster than modern versions in many situations. Unfortunately, many system libraries we rely on doesn’t support 10.6 anymore. We could rewrite them from scratch, but this will delay this release for a year at least. We couldn’t afford that delay. I’m sorry for this.

Pricing

Visual Watermark v3 is a major update, which includes new big features and thus isn’t free. If you bought in Feb 2013 or before, check your email for your special discount. If you purchased Visual Watermark in Mar-May 2013, check your email for new activation details. This update is free for you.

Please let us know what you think!

• Keep the watermark simple and clean;
• Position and size accurately;
• Blend the watermark with the photo;
• Add you copyright and contact info to the meta of your photos.

Read the full article here.

It’s obvious however, that visual watermarks (like logos, large stamps or texts) carelessly placed, distract from the overall look and feel of a photo. When you see such a watermarked photo, all you think about is the watermark.

If you want images you share online to be attractive and cohesive, you should tastefully and unobtrusive integrate watermarks. Your watermark shouldn’t impact the overall look and feel of a photo. Instead, the watermark should be a part of a photo. Carefully integrated watermarks are hardly noticeable. Their removal is a labor intensive process.

This is the subject of this tutorial. I’ll demonstrate you how to blend a watermark into a photo using Visual Watermark. Note this is a time-confusing process and cannot be suited to all types of photography.

Image copyright Bogdan Khartchenko

1. Import your images into the program. Mac: Drag them into the program screen, or click the Select Pictures button. Windows: Drag photos into the left side of the program, or click the Add Images button.
   
2. Fit your watermark into the right place within a photo.
   1. Open watermark editor. Mac: Click any of the photos you’ve just imported. Windows: Click the Create New Watermark button.
   2. Add and design your watermark. I’ll use a text watermark for this tutorial with a name in it. Mac: Click the Add Watermark – Text menu item. Windows: Click the Add Text button. Enter watermark text, select color and size on the screen appeared.
3. Finally, blend your watermark with the rest of the photo so that it looks like a part of the photo. I’ll make the watermark partly transparent by setting its opacity to 60% and change its color to be slightly yellowish.
   
4. Windows: Click the Apply button to return to the main screen and then – Watermark button in the bottom-left corner. Mac: Click the Go button to start watermarking.

And I’m done. I’ve successfully integrated a watermark so that it doesn’t distract from the original photo. Before you integrate a watermark into your next photo, carefully position and transform it. Stay tuned for more tutorials.

Get Started Batch Watermarking

Run Picasa 3.9.0. Select the photos you would like to watermark and click Export as shown in the screenshot below:

This invokes the ‘Export to Folder’ dialog:

Follow the steps listed below to protect your copyright in a batch:

1. Specify the Location folder to which watermarked images will be exported (copied).
2. Specify Image Size if required. Leave this option unchanged to use the original size.
3. Select an appropriate image quality. Let’s use Maximum.
4. Select the Add watermark option and type the text.
5. And you are done. Click Export to run the batch watermarking.

Picasa Limitations

• In Picasa, image watermarks are not supported. Only text can be used.
• You cannot specify font settings (font name, size, color, etc). In Picasa, a watermark is white text (for dark photos) and black text (for light photos).
• You are not allowed to specify the location at which a watermark should be embedded. In Picasa, a watermark is added to the lower-right corner of photos.

Want to embed images or adjustable strings to the required location?

Performance Measurements

Finally, let’s measure how much time it takes Picasa 3.9.0 to embed a custom string in multiple images. The results are shown in the table below:

Processor:    Intel Core i7-2630QM CPU 2.00GHz 2.00GHz

RAM:          8.00 GB

System type:  64-bit Operating System 

Want to watermark much more photos during the same time?

Get Started Watermarking

Run Adobe Lightroom 4.0. In the Library, select photos need to be watermarked and click Export:

This invokes the ‘Export’ dialog allowing you to specify the destination folder, file settings (image format, color space, size, sharpening, etc), watermarks and much more.

To add a watermark, turn on the Watermark option, and select Edit Watermarks… from the dropdown. This invokes the Watermark Editor allowing you to create a text watermark or use an existing graphic.

Creating Text Watermarks

1. Select Text Watermark Style.
2. Type the required text within the edit box displayed below the image.
3. Customize Text Options – font name, font style, horizontal alignment, color and shadow settings.

4. Adjust watermark effects if required. These include opacity, size, horizontal and vertical offsets, location within a photo.

1. Click Save to save the new watermark as a preset and close the Watermark Editor dialog.  Once saved, this preset can be used again.
2. Click Export start the batch process.

Creating Graphic Watermarks

1. Select Graphic Watermark Style.
2. This invokes the File Open dialog allowing you to choose the graphic to be used as a watermark.
3. Adjust watermark effects if required. These include opacity, size, horizontal and vertical offsets, location within a photo.
4. Click Save to save the new watermark as a preset and close the Watermark Editor dialog.  Once saved, this preset can be used again.
5. Click Export start the batch process.

The result is shown in the image below:

Performance Measurements

Finally, let’s measure how much time it takes Abode Lightroom 4.0 to embed a graphic in multiple photos. The result is shown in the table below:

Processor:    Intel Core i7-2630QM CPU 2.00GHz 2.00GHz

RAM:          8.00 GB

System type:  64-bit Operating System

Want to watermark 10K photos during the same time?

Whether you are a photographer, web designer or blogger, you’ve most probably had to deal with the headache of protecting your digital photos copyright. It’s easy enough to watermark, let’s say, ten or twenty pictures. But what if you have to process 10K pictures?

Batch image processing can make this process extremely faster and nearly painless. In this article, you’ll learn how to add the watermark to multiple photos in a batch using Adobe Photoshop Elements 11.

Get Started Watermarking

Run Adobe Photoshop Elements 11. Go to the File menu and select ‘Process Multiple Files…’ as shown in the screenshot below:

This invokes the ‘Process Multiple Files’ dialog:

In this tutorial, let’s do the following:

1. Specify the Source folder which contains images you want to watermark. Note all your images should be contained in the same folder (or device).
2. Specify the Destination folder to which watermarked images will be copied.
3. In the Labes group, select ‘Watermark’, type the text and customize its settings (position, opacity and font settings).

You can also use additional options to rename watermarked images, perform image enhancements (use Auto Levels, Auto Contrast, Auto Color and Sharpen options), specify the size, quality and output file type.

1. And you are done. Click OK to run the batch watermarking.

Limitations

The batch engine in Adobe Photoshop Elements 11 doesn’t allow you to use images or vector graphics as watermarks.

Want to use images as watermarks? 

Performance Measurements

Finally, let’s measure how much time it takes Abode Photoshop Elements 11 to embed a custom string in multiple images. The results are shown in the table below:

Processor:    Intel Core i7-2630QM CPU 2.00GHz 2.00GHz

RAM:          8.00 GB

System type:  64-bit Operating System

Want to watermark 10K photos during the same time?

You can find a lot of articles online regarding which digital image format should you shoot: RAW or JPEG. I newer shoot JPEG. Here‘s why.

Extended Dynamic Range

You get the most of the possible data from your image sensor in the camera. You can make HDR photos.

Huge Control

You can adjust picture settings after you’ve taken it. These are: white balance, contrast, sharpening, noise reduction, exposure, saturation, levels and much more parameters.

Highest Level of Quality and Lossless Post Processing

Pixel values are more precise and the photo is rendered more accurately. You can make adjustments to your photos yourself. Having made a change to one photo, you can save these settings and apply those to other photos taken in similar conditions. When you make adjustments to a RAW file, you don’t modify the original image. You can resent your adjustments, and start over again.

Advanced Color Correction

12 or 14 bits of image data provides unlimited editing capabilities in working with colors, highlights and shadows.

Multi-Format Converting

You can convert a RAW file to other digital image format: JPEG or TIFF. When exporting a RAW file, you can choose from any color space.

KickStarter is a website that allows inventors to promote their projects using images, video presentation and descriptions for everyone to see and generate funding. When a project is fully funded, it is brought to market and begins shipping.

The number of photography-related products is incredibly high, ranging from unique iPhone lens attachments to versatile camera stabilizers and more! Here are our top 10 favorite KickStarter photography projects (continued).

Projects 1-5 are available in the previous part here.

6. CineMoco ● Motor Control for your Camera by Cinetics

CineMoco is a small motor-controlled dolly and slider developed by Cinetics that allows you to take great videos and time-spanning images. The idea is simple: you place the camera on the dolly, set the motor to move it slowly past the scene and either take multiple shots, or one continuous video.

You can also use the CineMoco along with the CineSkates to capture cool panning images using the motorized dolly. The software that controls CineMoco is open-source and Cinetics invites photographers and videographers to write their own scripts for the dolly and create a library of pre-programmed movement shots.

Take a look at the presentation video and also visit their website and KickStarter page for more exciting information.

7. Bird Photo Booth – Experience nature like never before by Bryson Lovett

Created by bird photo enthusiast Bryson Lovett and inspired by the Polaroid Land Camera from the 1950s, the Bird Photo Booth is an innovative bird feeder that allows you to observe birds like never before.

You can easily setup the booth by putting your iPhone, iPod Touch or GoPro camera inside and then walk away from the booth and watch a live stream on an iPhone, iPad, or other device using a Wi-Fi or Bluetooth connectivity.

Photographs can be snapped remotely by connecting your iPhone to an iPad that runs a remote camera app. When you want to snap a picture of a bird that you like, simply press the button on the app and you’re done!

Here you can watch a video presentation and make sure to check their KickStarter page and website for more details. Another video presentation is available here.

8. EZ-Steady- iPhone, DSLR, GoPro Camera Stabilizer by Kyle Hart 

Created by inventor Kyle Hart, the EZ-Steady Camera Stabilizer is a small but clever DSRL stabilization system that helps you create professional videos using the camera that smoothly runs around the scene.

The concept is simple – the hand-held device eliminates camera shake and gives your videos a sense of flying. Typically, when you move with the camera in your hand you are sending some of the body’s vibrations on to the camera. This stabilizing system detaches the camera from your using a gimbal.

The camera remains vertical at all times by having attached a set of weights around the frame of the stabilizer that creates balance for the camera. Once the camera is stabilized you can freely walk or even run around taking it by the handle – the camera remains fixed on the gimbal, unable to capture your body’s movement or shaking.

Check out the presentation video and also visit their website and KickStarter page for more interesting facts.

9. Astro: Time-Lapse + Motion Control by Oscar Ramírez 

Created by Oscar Ramírez, the Astro Time Lapse Motion Controller allows you to add a little more creativity to your images and videos by creating great time-lapsed panning.

The Astro will be placed under your camera and allow you to control both the duration and range of movement from 0 to 360 degrees. Astro is compatible with Canon, Nikon, Sony, Panasonic, Pentax, Minolta and just about any camera with a remote input.

Astro connects to your camera using a cable and runs on 2 AA batteries. Go watch the video presentation and also check out their KickStarter page for more cool details.

10. Lens/Focus Shifter – Lens Mounted Follow Focus by Daniel Bauen + Microfacturing

The Lens/Focus Shifter has been developed by Daniel Bauen + Microfacturing and its purpose is to improve manual focus when taking photographs. The arrow on the Shifter ensures smooth transition between focus points.

The Shifter and Focus Marker Board attach easily to any lens with diameter between 56mm – 98mm. Attach the Shifter by sliding it onto the lens focus ring and hold it in place by tightening the ball end. The Focus Marker attaches to the lens with a rubber band and has elastic feet to stop it from slipping.

Here you can watch a video presentation and also visit their KickStarter page and website for more details.

Final Thoughts

As you can see, there are a lot of great ideas out there and with some help from you and other photography enthusiasts, some of these will come to life. What projects would you be most interested in to purchase for your photo and video productions? Go over to KickStarter and back the projects that you liked most!

KickStarter is a website that allows inventors to promote their projects using images, video presentation and descriptions for everyone to see and generate funding. When a project is fully funded, it is brought to market and begins shipping.

The number of photography-related products is incredibly high, ranging from unique iPhone lens attachments to versatile camera stabilizers and more! Here are our top 10 favorite KickStarter photography projects.

1. AirTracks: Inflatable All-Terrain Camera Slider by Tom Baker

The ability to shoot amazing cinematic videos is now in everyone’s reach! Created by Tom Baker, AirTracks is an inflatable slider system that gives you a practical way of always having a slider available to use for soft and fluid video movements.

Its purpose is to replace heavy metal sliders, so you can easily take it with you everywhere you go – it shrinks it down to the size of a water bottle! And you can also use it with an iPhone. The ability to shoot amazing cinematic videos is now in everyone’s reach.

Here is a video presentation of the product and you can find out more about AirTrack on their KickStarter page. This project has exceeded its pledge goal of $20,000 by raising so far $26,610 – the project is still open for 22 more days.

2. HiLO Lens for iPhone & iPad by Mark Hampton

If you love taking pictures with your iOS device, then you’ll want to have this new invention!  Created by New Zealand-based engineer Mark Hampton, HiLO Lens is the first right-angle detachable lens for iPhone & iPad that allows you to take creative photos with your device in a flat position.

The great thing about it is that it redirects the camera – just like a flip screen, helping you shoot in difficult positions – shooting above a crowd, photographing pets and children down on the floor and more!

Watch the video presentation here and see it in action! As they say it, any surface becomes a tripod! Find out more about the HiLO Lens on their KickStarter page and website. This project is still open for funding – their pledge is $27,500 and so far they’ve raised $16,214 (still have 23 days to go).

3. Stow-Away Lens Cap Holder for your SLR camera! by Preston Turk

US-based photographer Preston Turk created a unique way to store your cap lens while shooting. Stow-Away lens Cap is a cool accessory for your camera that serves various lens cap sizes (52mm, 55mm, 58mm, 62mm, 67mm and 72mm).

You can easily screw the device into the tripod mount with a thumb screw and you can attach the caps by just pushing them into the right-sized ridge. A quick note: you won’t be able to use the tripod and the cap holder at the same time.

Check out their KickStarter page and watch a presentation video. This project is still open for funding – their pledge is $8,000 and so far they’ve raised $6,256 (still 7 days to go).

4. Memoto Lifelogging Camera by Memoto

Memoto is a stamp-size camera that automatically takes 5-megapixel snapshots every 30 seconds – as you go. You just clip it on and as long as you wear it, Memoto is constantly snapping shots. The camera has no buttons – the app easily manages your shots with information about the time and place of the capture.

Then, the shots are organized on a timeline that highlights about 30 keyframes per day – each representing a moment. You can select a moment to play it in a stop-motion video of all the pictures within that moment. At the end of the day, you upload your shots to Memoto’s cloud servers and access them using an iPhone or Android app.

This project is still open for funding – their pledge is $50,000 and so far they’ve raised $ $324,040. Find out more on their KickStarter page and website. You can also watch a video presentation.

5. CineSkates Camera Sliders by Cinetics

Developed as a MIT lab project by Justin Jensen, CineSkates are a set of three wheels that attach to Joby’s GorillaPod Focus tripod, allowing you to create fluid, stabilized videos with your camera without bulky or expensive gear.

Now you can produce videos that have previously been extremely hard to accomplish and only with heavy and expensive gear. CineSkates allows you to capture the smooth fluid shots and pans that are done by professionals using highly expensive equipment.

CineSkates is especially useful for wedding videos, product demos, real estate presentations corporate campaigns and more. Check out their KickStarter page and website for more information.

Projects 6-10 are here.

You are in charge of three key elements:

• the bucket’s size
• the length you keep it in the rain
• the amount of water you want to gather

Think of ISO as the intensity of the rain. Your goal is to collect, say, one gallon of water. If you collect more, the water will flow out of the bucket and you will get over-exposed image (everything on the image will be overly bright with no shadows). If you collect less than one gallon, you will get an under-exposed image.

The secret is that you can use various combinations of size, duration and quantity to achieve the best results. For example, to collect the same amount of water, you need less time if you have a really wide bucket. On the other hand, for equal amount of time, you can collect less water if you use a really small bucket.

The Exposure Triangle

In photography, the three key elements – aperture, shutter speed and ISO – are similar to the size, time and amount of water we discussed above.

However, you can get better and better at using these three key elements – “the exposure triangle” – to be able to achieve amazing results in your photography. Each of the three elements of the triangle depends on light and on how it enters and interacts with your camera.

Each element affects exposure in a different way:

• Aperture: controls the amount of light that reaches the image sensor
• Shutter speed: controls how much time the aperture remains open
• ISO speed: controls sensor sensitivity to a certain amount of light

Here is an easier way to help you understand the exposure triangle. The following analogy will eliminate all the confusion and make it a bit more logical. Think about the rain that you use to fill a bucket with water:

• The width of the bucket is the aperture – the larger the diameter, the more water runs through.
• The duration you keep the bucket in the rain is the equivalent of the shutter speed – the longer bucket is in the rain, the more water comes in.
• The intensity of the rain is the ISO – the more watermark falls over time, the bucket is filled faster.
• The amount of water collected into the bucket is the exposure.

As you can see, there are multiple ways to combine these three elements to achieve the same exposure. The mastery, however, is to know which ones to choose, since each variable also affects other image attributes.

For example, aperture determines depth of field, shutter speed freezes / blurs motion and ISO speed produces image noise. It is at the intersection of these three elements that you can achieve the best image exposure.

Exposure Mode Controls

Next, I will give you a breakdown of the exposure mode controls on modern cameras. It’s Auto, P, A (sometimes Av), S (sometimes Tv) and M. This is a basic guide to where and when to use each mode:

Auto

In Auto mode the camera attempts to guess the best exposure settings and chooses everything for you – shutter speed, aperture and ISO. Typically, in Auto mode the camera never opens aperture too wide or closes it completely.

This mode can be simple and easy to use and you might get reasonably good shots. However, most cameras are packed with advanced settings that you can learn to use successfully – and you can use them to achieve amazing results.

Program (P)

Program (P) mode is basically Auto mode, but you tell the camera what object you’re currently shooting. This is also called the “Green” mode because it’s usually marked by a green “P” on the camera. The Program mode also leaves all the decision-making on autopilot. The camera creates a combination of Shutter Speed and Aperture so you don’t have to worry about exposure at all. In some cameras this may also come as “Portrait”, “Sports” or “Landscape” modes.

You may select “Portrait” program and the camera will tend to use a larger Aperture – which will throw the background out of focus, while keeping your object really sharp. In “Sports” program, the camera will use a higher ISO setting to reduce the Shutter speed and produce sharper images of quickly moving athletes.

Although the camera chooses both the aperture and shutter speed, you can still change the camera’s selection by turning a dial or pressing a button. This allows you to boost or reduce the shutter speed and the camera will select the aperture accordingly. This is a good compromise between automatic shooting and manual operation.

Use the P mode for shooting somewhat stationary subjects that don’t require either a very fast/slow shutter speed or too much/too little depth of field.

Aperture priority mode (A or Av)

“A” mode allows you to choose the aperture (f-number, f-stop) and the depth of field, leaving the camera to determine the most appropriate shutter speed. Use this mode whenever you want to create a nicely creamy background and lose all the unnecessary details from your shot (e.g. macro photography).

In a nutshell, use a…

• Small aperture – when you want everything to be in focus (e.g. a landscape)
• Large aperture – when you want to blur the background (e.g. macro photography or portrait shooting)

This mode is very useful in low-light situations, where you want to set the brightest, largest aperture in order to get the fastest shutter speed and no movement. Select a large aperture when you need a faster Shutter speed – like shooting sports or shooting in low-light conditions.

If you are shooting in low-light conditions, don’t be afraid to push the aperture to its maximum value, for example, f/2. If you need excessive depth of field or you want a slow shutter speed, stop down to f/11 or f/16.

Remember, the higher the ISO, the higher the sensor’s sensitivity to light, which means more noise in your shot. To keep exposure the same for a specific ISO value – if the Aperture is lowered by one stop, then the Shutter speed must be increased by one stop and vice versa. For example f/11 and 1/125 sec is as f/8 and 1/250 sec.

As a rule of thumb, a f/5.6 aperture gives you a little bit of depth of field (provided you don’t use a tele-photo lens) and is still wide enough to allow a high shutter speed.

Shutter priority mode (S or Tv)

S mode is particularly useful when you’re taking action shots and you want to freeze the motion with a high shutter speed. On the contrary, if you are photographing a waterfall and you want to create a beautiful silky effect and blur the water, you could use a slow shutter speed and the aperture would change accordingly.

Basically, what Tv mode does is to allow you to choose your shutter speed and then the camera tries to select an aperture for a properly exposed shot. Use Tv mode if you are taking many shots of moving subjects (e.g. sports photography) and want to freeze the action.

For example, if you are trying to freeze a football player, set the Shutter speed at 1/250 or higher. If you want to create some blur effect, you can shoot slower – try shooting at 1/30 and move the camera along with the player to intentionally blur motion.

If the Shutter speed is too slow and you get blurry images, increase the ISO. If the Shutter speed is too fast (say, 1/2000), or you get over-exposed images, the reduce ISO setting.

Manual mode (M)

In this mode you choose your shutter speed, aperture and ISO – sometimes with the help of the camera’s suggestion. Manual mode is best suitable for long exposures or other particular situations when the camera’s meter is not reliable. For example, in contrary light or when the sky is too bright.

Here are the steps for taking a picture in manual mode:

1. Set the camera to Manual mode.
2. Set the ISO at an appropriate value (e.g. ISO 100 for a sunny day, ISO 400-3200 for indoor shots)
3. Point the camera at your subject.
4. Frame the picture (zoom in if you are using a zoom lens).
5. Select either the shutter speed or the aperture that you need to create the desired effect.
6. Press the shutter button half way down to enable the camera’s light meter. It will tell you if your picture will be over/under exposed.
7. Based on camera metering, select the aperture or shutter speed (whichever one you did not set in step 5) until the light meter tells you that your exposure is about right.
8. Take the shot!

The Sunny f/16 Rule: If you are photographing a landscape without using a tripod, inverse the ISO in choosing your shutter speed (e.g. with ISO 200 – choose 1/200 shutter speed at f/16 aperture.

Ultimately, getting started using alternate camera modes is not as daunting as you may think. Learning more about some of the other camera settings is a must to growing as a photographer.

Tying Everything Together

Hopefully, now you have a much deeper understanding of how these 3 variables influence each other and the reasons why they are critical to master. It’s all about balance – combining the 3 variables of the exposure triangle to achieve your desired result in terms of blurring or freezing action, highlighting the subject or having more of the scene in focus and having a sharp beautiful image.

Allow your artistic fleur guide you and packed with these advanced techniques you will get better and better with every picture you take. Happy shooting!

More Resources

Check out this tool that enables you to experiment with different Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO settings: http://camerasim.com/camera-simulator/

Here is a list with additional great books on exposure:

1. Ansel Adams – “The Negative”

2. Chris Johnson – “The Practical Zone System: For Film and Digital Photography”

3. Bryan Peterson – “Understanding Exposure, 3rd Edition: How to Shoot Great Photographs with Any Camera”

4. Ibarionex Perello – “Chasing the Light: Improving Your Photography with Available Light (Voices That Matter)”

5. Bill Smith – “Designing a Photograph: Visual Techniques for Making your Photographs Work”

6. David Hurn, Bill Jay – “On Being a Photographer: A Practical Guide”