In early 2024, I traveled to Southern California to spend four days in San Diego to escape the chill of a northeastern winter and soak up some sun. While I’ve spent time in most of California’s other major cities, I’d never visited San Diego before, and was unsure what to expect.

Well-known for its beaches and surf culture, San Diego has a certain allure. But I had questions. Could I, a solo traveler who’s into history, architecture, nature, good food, and local culture, find ways to enjoy myself in this city that’s so well known for its sandy stretches and sunny days? I was about to find out.

My Favorite Moments from Four Days in San Diego

Arriving into San Diego via the Amtrak Surfliner

It was more difficult than I’d hoped to find a direct flight into San Diego at a desirable time, so I decided to do the next best thing: flying into LAX and then taking the famous Amtrak Pacific Surfliner train from Los Angeles into San Diego. While it meant a 15-hour travel day, from getting up early to get to the airport; the six-hour flight from Newark, and the subsequent 3-4 hour train ride with lots of transfers due to damage to the tracks, it was such a thrill to start my four days in San Diego with views of the Pacific Ocean to keep me company. There’s nothing like the romance of rail.

Sunny Weather

It’s true what they say: San Diego weather is pretty much always perfect. During my time in the city, I was completely unbothered by any suggestion that it might actually rain, so I was able to spend my days out and about throughout my trip. I didn’t even pack a raincoat.

An Afternoon at the Hotel del Coronado

If there’s a vibe that’s vibe-ier than taking a quick ferry ride to an island where you recline under a blue sky and swaying palm trees while the Pacific Ocean roars in the distance, I don’t know what it is. The Hotel del Coronado’s Windsor Lawn played host to my favorite few hours from my trip, where I lounged, read, and ate the most delicious lemon pound cake gelato, while the warm sun beat down on me. I wish I were there right now.

The Geisel Library at the University California San Diego

As a budding architecture enthusiast, I knew I had to visit the Geisel Library at UC San Diego. Named in honor of Audrey and Theodor Geisel—you know, the Dr. Seuss?—the opportunity to explore this behemoth of Brutalist design was so deeply satisfying. All of that reflective glass on a bluebird day created the illusion of a floating structure from afar, while closer inspection revealed the intricate processes that went into its construction. An architectural tour de force.

Robust Mass Transit

Call me doggedly practical if you must, but I love visiting cities with great public transit. One of the best decisions I made during my visit to San Diego was downloading the Pronto app and loading it with enough funds to cover my time in the area. For just a little more than $20, I rode the transit system’s trolleys and buses pretty much everywhere I wanted to go.

Breakfast Options in Gaslamp Quarter

The other good decision I made? Establishing my base of operations in the Gaslamp Quarter neighborhood. With ample dining options within walking distance, I took the opportunity to enjoy my favorite meal—breakfast—at three different establishments throughout my stay, all highly recommended: the Broken Yolk Café, Breakfast Republic, and Gaslamp Breakfast Company, where the crisp, light buttermilk cornmeal waffles are still haunting my memories in the very best way.

Plentiful Birds of Paradise

As a nature lover, I was absolutely delighted to spot birds of paradise everywhere, from the gardens of the historic Mission Basilica San Diego de Alcalá, to the concrete planters along streets in Little Italy. Spiky, sculptural flowers are my favorite, so I got a total thrill from seeing these colorful, birdlike blooms every day. I’m obsessed, and I don’t care who knows it.

Little Italy Mercato Farmers’ Market

The Little Italy Mercato Farmers’ Market was on my “must-dos” list, and I’m so glad it was. I wrote in my travel journal on arriving in Little Italy by trolley: “The Mercato was close by, and I walked its length: locally-roasted coffee, fruit, plants, flowers, breads, and the like were on offer. Juices too and a section nearer the other end were food trucks….Loving the relaxed vibe. I will always love visiting farmers’ markets wherever I go.” There’s something heady and seductive about melting into the throngs of activity as the local residents go about the business of living.

Balboa Park

Now I know you know I wasn’t going to San Diego and miss seeing Balboa Park! Having heard about the iconic park for years—while simultaneously not knowing very much about it—my curiosity was finally satiated. While the popular Botanical Building was being renovated and therefore inaccessible during my visit, I truly enjoyed exploring the façades of the ornate buildings, exploring works inside the San Diego Museum of Art, and then enjoying the delicate perfume of cherry blossoms, sparkling koi ponds, and fresh air at the Japanese Friendship Garden and Museum.

Marston House Museum and Gardens

A gorgeously preserved 1905 Arts and Crafts-style home designed from the same architectural DNA as many of Frank Lloyd Wright’s masterpieces, the Marston House Museum and Gardens is a beautiful introduction to Balboa Park. Located in the northwest corner of the massive park, the home of early San Diego notable George Marston and his family welcomes visitors to docent-led tours to uncover its rich history and beautiful details. 

A Perfect Trip?

While I enjoyed my four days in San Diego, the trip wasn’t just highlights–there were a few low points, too. A visit to historic Old Town State Park, which would normally be the type of attraction I’d enjoy, simply didn’t capture my attention and learning more about the history of Mission Basilica San Diego de Alacalá and the dark legacy of the California Missions–left me feeling uneasy.

Could I have spent longer exploring even more of San Diego? Absolutely! However, these highlights show that there’s a lot to learn about, and enjoy, on a even a brief, four-day trip to “America’s Finest City.”

The post Four Days in San Diego: The Highlights appeared first on Wanderlust for One.

So on a recent solo visit, I took the opportunity to experience several of the city’s architectural gems up close and in person, and I had the best time. One of the best parts of traveling alone is being able to take your time exploring the things that strike your fancy–and that’s exactly what I did. If you have an interest in architecture, visiting Chicago as a solo traveler is veritable smorgasbord.

Chicago Architecture Highlights

Visit the Chicago Architecture Center

Begin your explorations at Chicago Architecture Center, located right in the heart of the Magnificent Mile, overlooking the Chicago River, and in close proximity to many of the city’s most iconic structures. Dedicated to telling the story of the city’s buildings and infrastructure, the Center offers an incredible, interactive scale model of the city, which you can control to witness how the Great Fire of 1871 spread across the city, ultimately shaping its future. Other exhibits highlight how Chicago continues to innovate as a city that takes pride in its built spaces. 

Take a Boat Tour

I’ll always take an opportunity to explore a new-to-me city on the water, and in Chicago, it’s practically a requirement. Several companies, including the Chicago Architecture Center, offer tour options for floating down Chicago’s rivers while a knowledgeable tour guide narrates, pointing out buildings of note. I experienced Chicago on the water as part of a Wendella Boats and Tours excursion. It was almost the best 90 minutes of my time in the Windy City, with the added bonus of catching the sunset from our boat.

Explore the University of Chicago Campus

During my time in Chicago, I took a bus from downtown to the South Side to amble around the University of Chicago’s campus. I hate to say it, but this neo-Gothic campus puts others to shame. It’s not all Gothic, though. Like many other older colleges and universities that have grown over time, the University of Chicago campus boasts a broad mix of architectural styles. It was truly a highlight to sit on a bench, people watching prospective students touring the campus with their families. But that’s not all.

Pay Homage at the Frederick Robie House

Y’all. Not only is the University of Chicago a true Gothic wonderland—it also boasts a Frank Lloyd Wright designed home. The Robie House—designed for Frederick Robie who, coincidentally, never lived in it—served at one time as a seminary dormitory and as a frat house. Today, the home is preserved as an example of Wright’s work and impact, and you can take a tour with a knowledgeable docent to learn more of the home’s history all while taking in the long horizontal lines that are a hallmark of Wright’s Prairie style.

Carbide and Carbon Building/Pendry Hotel

Now home of the Pendry Hotel, the famous Carbide and Carbon Building, built in 1929, is a modern work of art, both outside and inside. From the façade—as any good docent on a boat tour will tell you—the building seems to have been designed to look like a giant bottle of champagne, complete with dark green marble and gold foiling at the top. Inside, the gilt Art Deco lobby of the-now Pendry Hotel is a breathtaking masterpiece.

More Notable Highlights

• Tribune Tower – Once home to the Chicago Tribune and the outcome of an international design competition to create “the most beautiful building in the world,” this neo-Gothic wonder is on the shortlist for a deeper dive on my next visit to Chicago.
• The Merchandise Mart – A thrilling example of Art Deco design, the Merchandise Mart served as a stunning backdrop for the annual open air “Art on the Mart” digital projection light show. I only got to see some of the details from the outside, but it certainly bears closer inspection.
• Marshall Field and Company Building – I’m not gonna lie—I’ve been to Macy’s all over America, but I’m not sure I’ll ever see one like the one on State Street in Chicago. Housed in the former Marshall Field’s Department Store building, the structure’s Classical Revival features hearken back to another time in the city’s past. Next time, a deeper dive.

Chicago is well known for many other things—great food, city life, art, and seriously immaculate vibes, but if you pass on the opportunity to witness the city’s commitment to preserving its history through its buildings, you’re truly missing out.

The post Chicago Architecture Highlights: 5 Must-Dos appeared first on Wanderlust for One.

Search the internet for guidance on buying an airplane ticket and you’ll get all sorts of advice. Buy early on a Tuesday. Buy two months before your planned travel dates. Buy during a full moon on days ending in “y.” Okay, I made that last one up. My point? There’s lots of information available about the best time to book a flight, but here’s one more piece of advice you probably aren’t expecting: the best time to book a flight is right now.

From Planning to Doing

This isn’t advice for bargain hunters or deal-makers. It’s not the best suggestion if you’re looking to find cheap flights. Instead, it’s a word of wisdom for every person out there who’s been planning their first solo trip for months or even years and finding it hard to make the leap.

Even though I’ve been a frequent solo traveler since 2009, I still remember the fear and uncertainty of planning–and pulling off–a trip by yourself. You’re likely overwhelmed by all of the details and concerned about things like safety and loneliness. I recall vividly what planning my first solo travel experience was like, so when I hear others express the same fears and misgivings I experienced, I can absolutely empathize.

I’ve been there. I know too well how easy it is to feed the fear and put off traveling. I know the excuses we tell ourselves. “I’m too busy.” “It’s too self-indulgent.” “I can’t afford it.” While you may have some valid concerns that could prevent you from following through on your travel plans, one thing I’ve learned over the years is that once I take the leap and book a flight, or buy the train ticket, or secure the hotel room, all the excuses fall away and everything else seems to fall into place.

Ready to start putting your solo travel plans into action? I’d love to hear where you’re planning to go!

The post The Best Time to Book a Flight appeared first on Wanderlust for One.

Having lived and worked in Seattle for nearly the past five years and visited other large North American cities in the last year (New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles, and Vancouver), I’ve picked up a few tips to help make tackling your first solo big city sojourn easy.

Check out the official tourism website

Big city neighborhoods are like smaller cities part that are of a larger whole. The local tourism board or destination marketing organization (DMO) usually offers an overview of these smaller enclaves, treating them as destinations onto themselves, offering information to help you decide which might suit you best.

Follow the local news

Following local news channels on the web or on social media can keep you up to date on what’s happening on the ground at your destination. If a big protest threatens to snarl your plans, you can work around it (or join in if that suits you). Local news outlets are often great resources for learning about all of the great opportunities to enjoy interesting smaller art exhibits, off-the-wall shows, and the random block party or street fair.

Get a lay of the land

Make sure you have a map on hand–if you’re using Google Maps on your smartphone, download and make your city map available offline to save on data and battery usage. Also, pay attention to topography. Traversing hillier cities like Seattle and San Francisco can be more challenging than you might expect.

Ditch the car

Without fail, every time I’ve visited a large city driving a car, I’ve regretted it. Not only do you waste valuable travel time sitting in traffic, getting lost navigating around the same one-way street for what feels like the millionth time is frustrating and just a bit demoralizing. Let’s not even get into the cost of parking. Ditch the car to save your sanity.

Take public transit

Public transit is a great option, often less expensive than driving a car. When I have the choice, I usually prefer to take light rail because it’s faster and street congestion is less of an issue. If you opt to use transit, be wary about traveling during rush hour–harried commuters can be unforgiving to visitors who doesn’t know where they’re going. Also, if you don’t like being in close quarters or crowds, consider using transit during off-peak hours.

Use your feet

Getting around on two feet is my favorite way to get around. Walking around a city is a truly special experience–you really feel the scope and scale of the city in a way you wouldn’t traveling in a bus, car, or subway. It might take more time, but scenes you might have missed while zipping past in a vehicle become a frequent treat when you’re on your feet. Plus, with all of the delicious eats you’ll likely find in a large city, a little extra exercise is a bonus.

Cluster your daily activities

If you’re traveling to a city that’s spread out–like Los Angeles at a whopping 503 square miles in size–concentrate your daily sightseeing to a specific area. You’ll spend less time zigzagging from place to place.

Skip the packed schedule

Although it’s tempting to max out your itinerary, plan a light schedule. Big cities also tend to be popular tourist destinations, and there may be long lines and lots of waiting around you haven’t anticipated. A packed schedule can make you feel anxious and lessen your enjoyment of your experience.

Do you

Spend time on things that matter to you. Don’t waste your valuable vacation on sightseeing or events that aren’t interesting to you, even if all the guidebooks and blogs say it’s the best thing ever. Travel your truth.

Big city travel can be daunting, but it doesn’t have to be. Educate yourself about where you’re headed, plan how and when and how you’re going to get around, and don’t forget to enjoy yourself. Which big city are you ready to tackle this year?

The post Big City Travel Tips appeared first on Wanderlust for One.

Built in the early 1970s in the style of a first century Roman house–complete with an open courtyard and graceful columns–the Getty Villa sits perched on the 64-acre Getty Pacific Palisades estate overlooking the Pacific Ocean. It doesn’t feel at all out of place in the surrounding landscape; in fact, it feels perfectly at home in So Cal’s Mediterranean climate. I suppose that’s what Mr. Getty intended all along.

The Getty Villa: A Brief History

Oil tycoon J. Paul Getty, once the richest man in the world, was an avid collector of art and antiquities. When his personal collection began to outgrow his home, Getty commissioned the construction of a museum to house it. The J. Paul Getty Museum opened to the public in 1974. As time passed, its holdings continued to increase, so in 1996, a second building was constructed to house the collection–the Getty Center, roughly 10 miles away in Los Angeles’ Brentwood area. Only the Greek, Roman, and Etruscan antiquities remained at the original museum, which was subsequently renamed the Getty Villa. It houses one of the most notable collections of ancient art and artifacts in the world.

The best part? Experiencing The Getty Villa is free.

Even though J. Paul Getty was rumored to be a notorious spendthrift–famously refusing to pay the ransom for his kidnapped grandson–he was also a philanthropist. His will provisioned that his estate, which would eventually become the J. Paul Getty Trust, should make art more accessible.

Discovering a Southern California Treasure

If you’re traveling to the Los Angeles area, visiting the Getty Villa is a must-do. Whether you’re interested in art, an aficionado of beautiful gardens and architecture, or looking for bit of solitude and a place to take a deep breath, the museum offers opportunities for all this and more.

Once I entered the building and saw the stunning architecture and elegant statues in the outer courtyard, I felt transported to another time and place. My visit started with nearly a quarter of an hour listening to the water falling from the fountains of the East Garden, followed by an extended rest on a bench in the gardens of the Outer Peristyle. Next, a walk in the colorful Herb Garden among fragrant plants, flowering shrubs, and fruit-bearing trees set beneath towering palms was just what my travel-weary body needed. Bliss.

And then, there was the art.

If you’re as fascinated by the art and culture of ancient civilizations as I am, you’d agree the Getty’s holdings are a pure feast for the eyes, mind, and senses. I felt dwarfed by the tremendous scope of the museum as I walked among some of the world’s most well-known pieces of ancient Roman, Greek, and Etruscan art, including the nearly 2,000-year-old Landsdowne Heracles. Here in the 21st century, rare and priceless finds from ancient Greece and Italy were an arm’s length away. If there’s one thing that defines the Getty Villa experience, it’s that the art feels so accessible. Instead of the echoing space of a large, impersonal museum building, viewing the antiquities in the Getty Villa felt as though I were merely visiting the home of a dear friend with very deep pockets and great taste in art.

Perhaps my favorite memory was the perfume-making workshop hosted by the museum in which visitors could learn to make scents using methods and materials that might have been used hundreds or even thousands of years ago. I took home my very own handcrafted vial of perfume, scented with frankincense, cardamom, rose, bergamot, and cyclamen. Every once in a while, I take a little whiff to remind me about this memorable Southern California experience.

Visiting the Getty Villa

Getting there

The Getty Villa can be accessed via Pacific Coast Highway; the road leading to its entrance begins a few hundred feet away from the nearest beach. You can spend your morning engrossed in art and your afternoon with your toes in the sand. While there’s no admission fee to enter the museum, you’ll pay for parking if you choose to drive. However, the parking fee is also good for same-day parking at the Getty Center.

Admission

While admission to the Getty Villa is free, be sure to reserve your timed admission ticket before arrival.

Food and drink

You can enjoy a picnic lunch in the designated area just north of the museum building, but food and beverages aren’t allowed in the galleries. The onsite cafe also serves a variety of Mediterranean-inspired dishes.

Event calendar

The perfume-making workshop I attended was just one of many interesting events you might experience during a visit to the Getty Villa. Themed and seasonal tours and activities as well as live performances in the outdoor theater are also an option.

The post The Getty Villa: A Southern California Treasure appeared first on Wanderlust for One.

Some argue that revisiting destinations is a waste, that life is too short to spend time and money going to a place you’ve already been. But this belief implies that the goal of travel is to visit as many places as possible before you inevitably kick the bucket. This simply isn’t the case.

Many of the people I follow on social media always seem to be jetting off to one new place or another, and a small part of me wonders whether I should be doing the same.  However, experience has shown that the most honest expression of how I prefer to travel could be compared to how you’d build a long-term relationship–by developing intimacy through repeated interactions over time.

Don’t get me wrong: one of the most important elements of travel for me is what I call the “infusion of the unfamiliar”–that feeling of landing in a new place and being disoriented, grasping for something that looks and feels a little bit like home. Those early moments in someplace new, when I’m feeling overwhelmed by loss of control, lay the foundation for my most poignant memories of personal growth. It doesn’t take long–usually a day or two at most–before I begin to rediscover my identity within the framework of my new surroundings. That first inkling of belonging in a place where I’m an outsider feels intoxicating every single time.

However, as I’ve become a more tenured traveler, I’ve realized that some of my most memorable travel experiences have happened in places I’ve returned to again and again. I’ve discovered that sometimes the most satisfying travel isn’t about going wide–it’s about going deep. If your goal is to visit as many countries or destinations as possible to check off items on your bucket list, there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that pursuit. However, if you’re interested in really spending time in a single place multiple times, that doesn’t mean you’re doing travel “wrong.” I’ve always believed that for travel to be satisfying, you’ve got to travel your truth.

Still unconvinced? If you’re feeling torn between the allure of the unfamiliar but similarly haunted by the familiar comfort of cherished locales, here are a few of my tried-and-true tips for keeping those old favorites feeling fresh.

Change your timing

If your first visit to a destination happened in the spring, try visiting during the fall next time or vice versa. You might be surprised by how climate, daylight, and seasonality impact how you experience a destination.

Adjust your mode of transport

If you visited a city by car before, consider crafting a new experience by seeing that same city on two feet. Walking around forces you to slow down, providing a richer, more nuanced experience. In contrast, driving instead of walking might allow you to access harder-to-reach sites that could enrich your visit.

Shift your surroundings

If your repeat destination is a large city, choose to stay in and explore a neighborhood you haven’t seen before. You’d be surprised by how much it feels like a completely new place.

Go solo

If you’d previously visited a destination with friends or family, give solo travel to that destination a whirl. Traveling by yourself feels totally different from traveling with someone else. It’s like reading a new book without anyone else’s notes in it.

Even if you don’t embrace any of these suggestions, there are still a few more things to consider: people and places aren’t static. They shift and evolve with time. So even if–with all other things being equal–you do decide to revisit a place you’ve been to before, both you and your destination will undoubtedly be different from what you both were in the past. As a result, fresh experiences are bound to happen.

Although one of my 2018 travel goals is to visit more new-to-me places, you can be sure I’ll be sure to sneak in an old favorite or two. What destinations are you planning to revisit this year?

The post On Revisiting Destinations appeared first on Wanderlust for One.

If you’ve been reading the blog since the beginning, then you’re probably familiar with a feature I launched called Weekend Wanderlust for One. The basic premise: I challenge other solo travel bloggers to plan a trip for $500 or less with travel up to 4 hours away from their hometowns for 3 days and 2 nights.

In late fall 2017, with travel funds dwindling and a long holiday weekend on the horizon, I thought a little weekend wanderlust was an idea worth revisiting. However, instead of challenging others with virtual money, I challenged myself with real cash.

In the spirit of this epic international long weekend in Montreal, Quebec, I gave myself a similar mission: a fun, 3-day weekend in Victoria, British Columbia on a budget.

Traveling from Seattle to Victoria, British Columbia on a Budget

There are a few ways to get to Victoria from Seattle, but none so budget- and time-friendly as Clipper Vacations’ three-hour ferry service. I’d purchased my ticket three months before my anticipated low-season travel date and selected the cheaper non-refundable option to get the best deal ($117USD) .

Day 1 (Friday)

I woke on the morning of my trip giddy with excitement about my first visit to Victoria. Taking the bus to get to Clipper Vacations’ downtown Seattle dock, I arrived with plenty of time to board the 8 am sailing ($2.50USD). It was a long holiday weekend, and the small waiting area was packed with more than 300 travelers eager to take advantage of the opportunity. Boarding went smoothly and the ferry left Seattle on time. In spite of my nervousness about getting seasick, the sailing aboard the Clipper was a smooth and scenic 3-hour ride all the way up Puget Sound through Admiralty Inlet and into the Strait of Juan de Fuca to the southeastern tip of Vancouver Island.

Arriving in a new city by water was exhilarating and Victoria’s Inner Harbour was a visual treat. The last vestiges of vibrant fall color still clung to the trees, moored sailboats bobbed gently in the water, and situated just one block from the ferry dock, the imposing British Columbia Parliament Buildings, with their neo-Baroque design and green oxidized copper domes, were a magnificent welcome to the city.

Although I’d hoped to tour the buildings, the weather forecast prompted an immediate change to my plans. The next two days promised rain, so I opted to tour The Butchart Gardens first instead of putting it off for another day. It wasn’t long before I boarded a nearby northbound BC Transit bus, purchasing a DayPass onboard for unlimited bus rides for the remainder of the day ($5.00CAD/$3.94USD-cash only).

The Butchart Gardens is one of Victoria’s don’t miss attractions, and even though they are reported to be at their most lovely in the spring and summer, they were still very pleasant in mid-November ($22.21CAD/$17.52USD). Fewer visitors meant more peaceful walks among the manicured paths in the famous Sunken Garden where the faint sounds of birdsong and falling water could be heard at every turn. Not to be outdone, the maples in the Japanese Garden flamed in bright vermillion, while narrow, bamboo-lined paths guided me through a serene space perfect for a contemplative stroll.

Without dinner plans, I splurged on high tea in the Gardens’ dining room ($45.05CAD/$35.53USD). The ambient heat of the fireplace and the hot lemongrass and ginger tea I selected were the perfect way to get warm after a few hours outdoors. Next came a warm ginger scone with cream and preserves, followed by scrumptious and aesthetically pleasing tiers of savory tarts and pies, cold sandwiches, and sweet treats. The verdict: a highly recommended experience worth the expense.

Hours later, I returned to downtown Victoria by bus and then walked to The Craigmyle, a charming guest house located in a quiet residential neighborhood where I’d booked a two-night stay ($206.48CAD/$162.84USD). The concierge directed me to the Rose Room, a bright and cosy bedroom I fell in love with on sight. Although it was still early, I relished the opportunity to burrow under the thick blanket, spend some time preparing for the days ahead, and get a good night’s sleep.

Day 2 (Saturday)

Breakfast at The Craigmyle was a satisfying spread with options to suit nearly every appetite. I selected and savored gluten-free bread with house-made raspberry preserves, fresh fruit, finely milled granola with Greek yogurt and strawberries, a hard-boiled egg, and–best of all–coffee. A few of the other guests enjoyed their meals nearby, and we chatted and exchanged our plans, offering advice on the best things to see and do in Victoria.

Dressing for a rainy forecast, I went in search of Ross Bay Cemetery, a turn-of-the-century graveyard where some of the city’s notables are buried. I made a quick detour through the Government House and Gardens, the official residence of the lieutenant governor of British Columbia. I spent nearly half an hour making a half-circuit of the walking path, admiring the flora and marveling at the tall, brightly-colored totem pole in the gardens.

The visit to Ross Bay Cemetery coincided with Remembrance Day in Canada making my stroll among the worn headstones and grave markers even more meaningful. The cemetery is bordered to the south by the Dallas Road pathway overlooking Victoria Harbour, where I continued a leisurely walk and met many friendly people walking or running with some of the friendliest dogs ever.

Passing the Mile 0 Marker and the adjacent Terry Fox statue and turning towards downtown, I stopped in at historic Murchie’s Fine Tea and Coffee then continued to Fisgard Street where the intricate and colorful Gate of Harmonious Interest welcomed me to Chinatown. How I missed spotting the famous Fan Tan Alley, I’ll never know.

At nearby Swans Hotel and Brewpub, I sat down to a surprisingly delicious and easy-on-the-budget soup and sandwich combo ($14.89CAD/$11.74USD). The meal provided fuel for further explorations in Market Square and window shopping a few boutiques on Johnson Street. Returning to Fort Street, my inner bibliophile found its version of heaven in Russell Books, three stories of floor-to-ceiling shelves packed with new and used books plus vintage and collectible volumes.

Up next was the imposing Craigdarroch Castle ($14.50CAD/$11.74USD), the baronial mansion of Victoria coal and railroad magnate Robert Dunsmuir. With free reign to explore the building’s five floors, I took my time perusing each room, envisioning early twentieth century Victorian life. My favorite part of the tour was Craigdarroch’s tower, where visitors can enjoy 270-degree views over Victoria. A short walk away from Craigdarroch was the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria ($13.00CAD/$10.27USD) where a collection of the works of Emily Carr–artist, author, and one of Victoria’s most famous daughters–was on display.

After returning to the guest house for short rest, I felt revived and–for lack of a better word–adventurous. Usually not one to sample nightlife, I walked half a mile to Stage Small Plates Wine Bar, an intimate, dimly-lit spot, where I nibbled on an appetizer, nursed a glass of pinot gris, and noshed on two “small” plates that were big enough to be entrées ($56.59CAD/$44.63USD). After the delicious meal, I crossed the street to the Belfry Theatre, hoping that tickets to the evening’s performance were still available. They weren’t, so I consoled myself with dessert ($9.49CAD/$7.47USD) at the nearby Fernwood Inn, before returning to my lodgings and to bed.

Day 3 (Sunday)

On my final day in Victoria, the rain that threatened all weekend finally came. Checking out of the guest house, I strapped on my backpack and wandered down Fort Street past the colorful Victorian homes, Tudor Revival storefronts on Antique Row, and tony shops and eateries. I should have visited the Victoria Public Market, but instead I explored the retail shops of The Bay Centre and the opulent interiors of the majestic Fairmont Empress Hotel.

Finally, I visited the Royal British Columbia Museum ($17.00CAD/$13.36USD) where I checked my backpack for a few hours for a small donation so I wouldn’t have to carry it through the exhibits ($3.00CAD/$2.36USD). The museum offered a broad overview of the natural, economical, cultural, and political forces that shaped the province, including a life-sized, walkable re-creation depicting what Victoria’s urban landscape might have looked like in the late 1800s. Even more stunning: the collection of towering totem poles in the First Peoples Gallery.

I would have liked for my final meal in Victoria to have been at local favorite Red Fish Blue Fish, but it was closed for the season. Wanting to stay close to the Inner Harbor before my Clipper sailing departed in a few hours, I decided on lunch at nearby Canadian chain restaurant The Old Spaghetti Factory. The restaurant offered warm, dry seating and a four-course lunch special for a mere song ($13.49CAD/$10.60USD).

The unyielding rain forced me to skip Beacon Hill Park, and so I proceeded to the shelter of the ferry dock to wait for departure. Soon, I was back on the water with the twinkling lights of the Inner Harbour receding in the ferry’s wake. The return trip to Seattle was uneventful as we returned in the dark, although I did purchase a refreshing sparkling water ($3.29USD). Three hours later, I was back in Seattle and, after going through customs, on a bus ($2.50USD) back to my apartment. What a whirlwind of a weekend!

Victoria, British Columbia on a Budget

From start to finish, the entire cost of my trip came in at just under $461 dollars, shy of the $500 budget I began with, including a splurge or two. If you’d like to visit Victoria from Seattle or Vancouver without spending a fortune it’s definitely doable. Here are a few tips.

Travel to Victoria during shoulder or low-season

Like many of the other beautiful cities of the Pacific Northwest, autumn and winter weather are often less than ideal but still beautiful in its own way. Be sure to pack a raincoat, layers, and waterproof shoes.

Book your travel and lodging in advance

By booking early, you get a greater range of options closer to downtown and more competitive rates. If possible, choose lodgings where a good breakfast is included–if you don’t mind the walk from downtown Victoria, I can’t recommend The Craigmyle enough.

Consider the exchange rate

If you’re coming from outside Canada, watch the exchange rate between Canadian dollars and the currency of your home country or region. During my trip, the U.S. dollar was performing favorably against the Canadian dollar; otherwise, it would have been much more challenging to fit similar experiences into my budget.

Choose transit for getting around

Riding BC Transit buses in Victoria was a good decision. The buses were clean, comfortable, mostly on time, and a good value. In addition, a bus ride makes an excellent opportunity for people-watching.

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