Ages ago I honeymooned in St -Tropez and attended the Cannes Film Festival for several years, but the Mediterranean coast has become increasingly overbuilt and overcrowded. The wild landscapes, inland towns, and hill villages of Languedoc and Provence are a far better bet if you are searching for beauty, authenticity, and value.

Bordeaux Grand Theatre // Credit M.Webb

In April, a couple of friends and I drove from Bordeaux to St-Paul-de-Vence, spending nights in the St-Emilion wine country, St-Rémy-de-Provence, Pernes-les-Fontaines and Aix-en-Provence. The sun shone and in the last few days the mistral started blowing, a cold blast of air down the Rhone Valley that leaves the air crystal-clear. Hotels and restaurants were only half-full; the tourist tide flows from mid-May to mid-September when the region is often uncomfortably hot and wildfires can scorch the forests. One caveat: the centers of many historic cities have become impenetrable labyrinths for non-resident drivers. You are urged to park, then rent a bike or walk. Montpellier is a maze of one-way streets and barriers that even natives find hard to navigate.

Chateau Margaux // Photo: M.Webb

The center of Bordeaux was rebuilt in the 18^th century using the handsome local stone, and the Grand Théâtre epitomizes the pride of a prosperous port city. Try to catch an opera or dance performance and dress up for the occasion. From the columned façade crowned with statues to the soaring vault over the foyer and the horseshoe auditorium, the experience lives up to the name. In contrast to this historic pomp, Le Corbusier created a model town for workers in the suburb of Pessac that is a model of enlightened planning. Legendary wineries are scattered in an arc around the city, from St-Émilion to Entre-Deux-Mers. We toured Château Margaux—a wine that Thomas Jefferson favored above all others when he served as the first US Ambassador to France. Its history goes back several centuries, but the signature chateau was built for a rich Parisian who bought the property in the 1810s. A decade ago, Norman Foster added a new chai for white wine–an airy, light-filled space supported on branching steel trees–and a new “library” that preserves a few bottles of every varietal and vintage. In the cooperage workshop oak barrels are made from scratch in the traditional way.

Nimes Jardin des Fontaines // Photo: M.Webb

The Romans founded the city of Nîmes, bequeathing an arena and the Maison Carrée, a small, impeccably restored temple. Foster complemented it with a graceful museum of contemporary art. The city has been refurbished and rewards leisurely strolls, especially in the Jardin de la Fontaine, a park flanked by a walled, tree-lined canal. From Nîmes you can drive through the Camargue, a marshland that is home to wild, white ponies and the gypsy church of Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer.  We continued on to St-Rémy-de-Provence, an exquisite small town with a pedestrian street, the rue Carnot, that curves gently downhill and is paved with smooth river rocks with a central marble gutter to carry off rainwater. Everywhere in Provence you should watch where you are walking; even the humblest streets can be beautifully paved and polished smooth by centuries of use.

Aries Luma // Photo: M.Webb

The stand-out in Arles is St-Trophîme, a Romanesque church dedicated to an obscure local saint. Facing onto a central square, the west façade is fantastically carved with saints, sinners, lions and devils, and there’s a jewel-like cloister to one side. On the outskirts of the city, a factory has been transformed into Luma, a mecca for the art of photography. Frank Gehry created an asymmetrical tower of silvery blocks that emerges from a glass rotunda and houses galleries, an adventurous restaurant and a viewing platform overlooking the city. Warehouses have been converted into galleries for summer exhibitions and the grounds have been landscaped with mature trees. An exit from the A8 autoroute brings you to a secluded treasure, the former Cistercian abbey of Le Thoronet. Noble and austere, it has inspired John Pawson and other modern architects. It’s a joy to listen to plainsong in the soaring nave and to explore the cloister and chapter house in utter stillness. Though the monks left after the French Revolution their spirit still animates the place.

Abbaye Le Thoronet // Photo: M.Webb

The village of St-Paul-de-Vence offers a treacherous ascent of polished pebbles and is a tad too precious, but it’s worth staying close by for two modern gems, the Fondation Maeght, a stunning complex of art galleries and courtyards with a fine display of sculptures by Miro and Giacometti, and the Rosary Chapel in Vence that was designed by Henri Matisse. And it’s a good base from which to drive an hour east to Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, where Eileen Gray and Le Corbusier built their summer houses. You walk along a narrow path from the station, down steep steps to find her hugely inventive white villa, newly restored and refurnished, and his log cabin. The master died while swimming in the rocky cove below and is buried, alongside his wife, in the cemetery high above.

St Paul de Vence Fondation Maeght // Photo: M.Webb

Art, landscape and vineyards converge at the Château-La-Coste, an expansive winery that incorporates a fine collection of contemporary architecture and sculpture. Highlights include Tadao Ando’s café-visitors center and chapel, Gehry’s Serpentine Pavilion (brought here from London), and a heroically cantilevered gallery by the late Richard Rogers that recalls the colorful exuberance of the Pompidou Center in Paris. The estate is worth a day for those with the energy to walk and it’s a short drive from Aix-en-Provence. This was our last stop, chiefly for the joy of driving the Cézanne Route that encircles Mont-St-Victoire, the painter’s favorite subject. The clarity of the light was extraordinary. As Monet wrote to a friend from Antibes in 1884: “One swims in blue air; it is frightening.”

Aix en Provence Route Cézanne // Photo: M.Webb

Recommended places to stay

Montagne: La Maison de Millie

Villevieille: Château de Pondres and La Canopée restaurant

St Rémy-de-Provence: Hôtel Gounod

Pernes-les-Fontaines: Hôtel L’Hermitage

St. Paul de Vence: Hôtel les Messugues

Aix-en-Provence: Aquabella Hotel and Spa & L’Orangérie restaurant

Recommended restaurants (check menus and make reservations online):

St Emilion: L’Envers du Décor

Montagne: Le Clos Mirande

St-Rémy-de-Provence: Chapeau de Paille

Pernes-les-Fontaines: Au Fil de Temps

Vence: La Casolette

St Paul-de-Vence: Le Tilleul

Aix-en-Provence: Les Inséparables and Le Vintrépide

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Telc Image by Michael Webb

From the Middle Ages on, the region’s cities grew rich on trade, and impressive market squares are a Czech specialty. Some have become tranquil backwaters, others are a bustling mix of cars and pedestrians. Many are lined with flamboyant civic buildings and the houses of rich merchants. Cafés spill out onto the cobbles and locals gather here to chat. Often these spaces, which come in every size and shape, are a riot of ornament and color with gaily patterned facades. Standouts include the long arcaded wedge of Telc, Prachatice with its array of sgraffitoed buildings, and the elongated square of Litomysl, which a guide likens to a juicy Czech sausage. The most splendid is that of Cesky Budejovice, a symmetrical checkerboard overlooked by the Grand Hotel Zevon, in whose chilly depths we stayed.

Ceske Budejovice Image by Michael Webb

Architecture has flourished for eight centuries in the Czech lands, even in the dark years of Soviet domination, and Prague is a showcase of Gothic and Baroque, Art Nouveau and a handful of exceptional contemporary buildings. The country was also a cradle of modernism. During their first two decades of independence from the Austro-Hungarian empire, the Czechs boldly embraced the latest ideas in design. Shoemaker Tomas Bata turned Zlin (the birthplace  of Tom Stoppard and architect Ewa Jiricna) into a model company town and that enlightened policy is still alive. In 1939 another factory owner commissioned the Villa Volman in Celakovice, a half-hour drive from Prague, and this radical house recreated from ruins  is now open for public tours. Brno, the second Czech city, is a showcase of modernism from the interwar years, notably the halls that still host trade fairs and Mies van der Rohe’s Villa Tughendhat, a masterpiece that survived wartime bombing and has been restored to its pristine state.

Brno Tughendhat Image by Michael Webb

The Czechs have had a long love affair with classical music. Mozart premiered Don Giovanni at the Estates Theater in Prague in 1792 and it is still on the repertoire in this exquisite auditorium. May is the month to catch the spring music festival, with concerts and operas being presented all over the capital. Brno also has a lively arts scene and we attended a production of Balanchine ballets as expertly performed in the Janacek Theater as they are by the New York City Ballet, which was founded by the master and has been honing its skills for 75 years.

Prague: Estates Theater Image by Michael Webb

In the 19^th-century, crowned heads and overindulgent nobility spent summer months taking the waters in the spa cities of Karlovy Vary and Marianske Lazny, staying in palatial hotels and promenading in their carriages. The foul-tasting waters now draw a more democratic crowd of health  seekers, while  those who are unconcerned about their livers can gorge on the wedding-cake architecture.

Karlovy Vary Image by Michael Webb

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Nearly sixty years after a first youthful tour of Morocco, I returned to that enchanted land in March. Covid restrictions forced me to reschedule the trip three times and I decided to go at the earliest opportunity. I struck out with the weather, which was cold and wet, giving way to hazy sun in the south, but the warmth and generosity of Moroccans made up for the blight. I had a wonderful driver, Housni from marrakech-tours-specialist.com, who was unfailingly cheerful and resourceful. I stayed in a succession of riads, elegant but inexpensive guest houses in the medinas of ancient cities, where the owners and their young staff made me feel like family and provided the best of local cuisine.

Three of these boutique lodgings stood out and were reason enough to make the trip. Riad 42 in Marrakech was remodeled by the architect owner in minimalist style, and the manager gave me rides through the Medina on the back of his motor bike. Dar Zahia in the walled city of Taroudant is also plain but full of atmosphere, with a courtyard that doubles as a botanical garden and shady porticoes for dining.

In the labyrinth of old Fez,  Dar Seffarine is a glorious display of traditional architecture and decoration with five rooms and a couple of suites, abandoned for decades, and lovingly restored by an expat Iraqi architect and his Norwegian wife. The classic arabesques, tilework and painted doors ravish the eye, and the roof terrace offers panoramic views over the old city. Only the call of the muezzin penetrates the thick walls of these riads.

Medinas are a maze of narrow pedestrian alleys and most tourists depend on authorized guides. I preferred serendipity and the navigational advice of the riad staff. Getting lost can be half the fun and you don’t feel pressured to buy a carpet or line up with tour groups. Travel to Morocco, devastated by the pandemic, is slowly recovering, so take full advantage of the lull.

Marrakech is full of treasures, notably the tranquil enclave of the Saadian tombs and the Almoravid Kubba , a richly carved stone kiosk that is almost a thousand years old. The celebrated garden of Jacques Majorelle has been dramatically enhanced by the Yves St Laurent Foundation, as an earthly paradise of palms and succulents. There’s a stylish cafe and a museum of Berber crafts occupies Majorelle’s Art Deco studio. Next door is a tiny new museum that celebrates the great French couturier and his associates.

The hotel-restaurant of Dar Hassoun outside Taroudant also boasts a lush garden flanking a long lap pool where you can dine outside on warm evenings in company with a very noisy frog. This miniature oasis anticipates a string of palm groves that line the Draa Valle. It’s hard to believe that the Sahara begins at the end of the road, but a poster advertises 55-day camel trips to Timbuktu .

Another recurring feature of the roads leading out from the sprawling city of Ourzazate are the fortified villages and kasbahs (family fortresses). The originals, constructed from pisé (rammed earth), are crumbling away or have been reconstructed in concrete, often as self-styled luxury hotels that are hideous caricatures of traditional architecture. In Tinejdad, La Musée des Sources shows a better way. Its owner, Zaïd, spent 30 years collecting Berber tools and crafts, and has constructed a compound of pisé and timber pavilions in which to display them. It’s a magical place.

Air France offers the most reliable access from US cities to the airports of Morocco via Paris. I had the misfortune to be booked on Royal Air Maroc, a partner of American Airlines which “lost” my return business class reservation from Casablanca to Kennedy (or chose to sell the same ticket twice) and I was shoehorned into mask-free steerage, a disagreeable way to end a memorable trip.

Other recommended places to stay and eat:

Casablanca: Hotel Barcelo Anfa

Restaurants: Bistronome, Casa José, La Closérie

Marrakech: Riad Dar-k

Restaurants: Al Fassia Aguedal, Le Fondouk, Le Trou au Mer

Tiout: Bivouac Iguedal (ride a donkey into a palmerie to lunch in a tent)

Ourzazate: Le Petit Riad

Midelt: Riad Pomme d’Or

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EGYPT: Is It Safe Yet? TURKEY'S Museum Hotel A Masterpiece SOUTH AFRICA: A Journey in Memoriam

Though Sicily is still one of Italy’s poorest provinces, it has an unmatched legacy from the past: Greek temples and Roman theaters, Norman cathedrals and the exuberance of Spanish baroque. There’s a love of color and display that you find in period frescoes, street markets and the presentation of fish fresh out of the sea.

We spent three days exploring the riches of Palermo, a city scarred by wartime bombing and Mafia-funded development, which retains something of its dignity. Here, as in other towns, there are signs of a resurgence. Landmark buildings have been restored, facades scrubbed, streets turned over to pedestrians. It’s safe to walk around, even at night, and motor traffic has been tamed.

Highlights included the golden mosaics of the Capella Palatina, the fanciful Chinoiserie of the Palazzina Cinese, and the surreal juxtapositions within the Palazzo Branciforte, which once served as a pawn shop, and now displays street puppets on the tiers of wooden shelves. You could stay by the sea in the Art Nouveau splendor of the Villa Igeia; we preferred the intimacy of the Palazzo Valentino at the heart of the old city.

From Palermo, we drove across the mountainous interior to Syracuse, and stayed in the modest but well-located Palazzo di Sale on Ortygia, an island that’s linked to the modern city by a short causeway. The narrow streets lead to water on every side and at the heart of the island is the Piazza del Duomo, a crescent of polished marble from which all vehicles are banned. The cathedral was built within a Doric temple and massive columns emerge from the side walls. The pale stone facades are illuminated at night and the square becomes a huge stage, best viewed from one of the outdoor restaurants.

From here we drove up to Catania, a city constructed of dark grey lava rock from Mount Etna and continued on to the ring road that encircles the crater. When the volcano exploded in 1693 it devastated Catania and several other towns in the region. Happily, there was wealth and talent to rebuild them quickly and well. The finest of these reconstructed towns is Noto, a short drive from Syracuse. Steep streets lead up from a broad pedestrianized boulevard, and a flight of steps ascends to the cathedral.

The Palazzo Villadorata, with its richly carved balconies, is home to Seven Rooms, a luxurious b&b, and you can wander around the Palazzo Casteluccio, which has been exquisitely restored for a French movie producer. Close by are the newly chic hill towns of Ragusa and Modica, where houses appear to be stacked vertically and rock-climbing skills come in useful. Casa Talia, a complex of rooms designed by a local architect is perched on a slope like an eagle’s nest.

From Noto we drove inland to Agrigento and on to Mazara del Vallo, with its maze-like Arab kasbah and Museo Satiro, a disused church housing the expressive bronze figure of a satyr, recently netted by a fishing boat. A steep road wind up from the port of Trapani to Erice, an ancient fortified settlement built entirely of stone, which commands sweeping views out to sea.

A hydrofoil took us to the island of Marettimo for a taste of Mediterranean rusticity. White cubic houses with blue doors and shutters evoke Aegean Greece and whiskery fishermen with painted boats provide most of the income. There are no hotels, but almost every house offers spare rooms to visitors in summer and there are a couple of excellent fish restaurants. Back in Trapani, we detoured to the Greek temple of Segesta and the Norman cathedral and cloister of Monreale on our way back to the airport.

Where to stay and eat:

Palermo: Palazzo Valentino 4 Quarti, Via Vittorio Emanuele 376

Vila Igeia, Salita Belmonte 43

I Cucci, Piazza Bologni 3

Osteria dei Vespri, Piazza Croce dei Vespri

Syracuse: Palazzo di Sale, Piazza XVI Maggio 10

Regina Lucia, Piazza Duomo 6

Noto: Seven Rooms Villadorata, Via Camillo Benso 53

Anche gli Angeli, Via Arnaldo di Breschia 2

Modica: Casa Talia, Via Exaudinos 9

Sciacca: Hostaria Viccolo, Viccolo Sammaritano 10 

Marettimo: Il Veliero, Corso Umberto 22

San Vito lo Capo: Pocho, Contrada Macari

Recommended driver/guide: Francesca Lombardo   lofran07@libero.it

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These places have top hotel style service, private chefs and luxury 5 star amenities plus full COVID hygiene protocols in place. Justin Timberlake has even stayed at one of them. Message us and we hook you up with packages you can’t get by going direct to the the location.

1. Casa Tau – Punta Mita

2. Villa Tres Amores – Punta Mita

3. West Wing – Beaver Creek Colorado

4. Hualalai Estate – Hawaii

5. Villa Mosaic – Palm Desert, CA

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RELAIS & CHATEAUX: A Legacy of Extraordinary Hospitality A Peak Experience Awaits This Winter in WHISTLER, BC Staycation at Four Seasons in LOS ANGELES

“Close your eyes, we will chant a prayer for you,” says Simi, my Ayurvedic therapist as soon as I step inside my treatment room at Ananda, a five-star destination spa, burrowed in the foothills of the Himalayas. She dabs Rasnadi Choornam, a healing herbal powder, to my crown chakra and then along with another therapist starts gently pouring warm herbal oils all over my hair and body. The two therapists simultaneously massage them into my muscles and joints in unison. The sound of Guruvandana, a Sanskrit prayer sang by the young women lulls me and I drift into a drug-free high almost immediately.

I arrive in India at the same time as the monsoon season: ribbons of mist are hanging on the dark green mountains, the clouds are fat with moisture and puddles ripple on the ground with brief daily rains. According to Ayurveda, there is no season like monsoon to rejuvenate the body and soul, all because the environment, moist and dust free, has a way of opening up pores, making the body more receptive to herbal oils and therapy. 

I came to Ananda on a personal pilgrimage of sorts, wanting to learn as much as I can about Ayurveda and experience Panchakarma, an ancient Indian practice of purifying the body, cleansing any impurities, and finding a balance, with a goal of a more harmonious, well-balanced new me at the end. I just finished writing my first book, my brain over stimulated, my body under-nourished and I am craving calm and clarity. It’s an auspicious setting, living on the grounds of the century-old Viceregal Palace, once the residence of Maharaja of Tehri-Garhwal, tucked away in the Himalayas, surrounded by Sal forests and overlooking the Ganges River. But make no mistake: wellness is the key focus here.

My stay begins with a consultation by Dr. Chandan, the resident Ayurvedic doctor; he looks deeply into my eyes, asks me dozens of questions, some quite personal, before feeling my pulse. I’m Vata with a little side of Pitta, two of the three doshas used in diagnosing a patient in Ayurveda. I’m not completely out of equilibrium, he tells me, but my doshas need balancing and there are things I can work on. On his list of recommendations, Dr. Chandan prescribes ginger lemon tea upon waking, a specialty of the spa, Vata-specific spices mixed in warm water before each meal, absolutely no cold drinks or raw juices and lots of soups, a diet somewhat similar to my normal daily fare at home.

What’s different is for the next week, my days are packed with multiple Ayurvedic oil massages and body treatments, personalized yoga and meditation classes, steam, Vedanta talks and lots of sleep. Vedanta literally means the culmination of knowledge and according to the resident scholar, Carlin Pillay, presents eternal principles of life and living and leads to the ultimate goal of self-realization and spiritual enlightenment. I’m so in!

Dr. Chandan sends me off to the spa pavilion for an Abhyanga treatment, the four-hand oil massage “to start getting rid of toxins” in my body.  It’s on my schedule for an hour, yet after just 25 minutes, I am asked to get off the wooden table I’m laying on covered in oil and go inside a steam room, to allow the oils to absorb into my body. Wait a minute, I say, I want a full hour of this bliss!  But I’m told that steam is part of the therapeutic treatment and I plead to allow me to steam after the massage, on my own, so I can get extra oil and extra kneading before I have to get up. Clearly, the doc is right and I have lots of toxins to release before I reach nirvana.

My daily Ayurvedic treatments (who knew you can cram so much wellbeing into one day?) all involve long strokes of herb-infused oils, vigorous rubs with dry herbs or scalding scrubs with poultices stuffed with dosha herbs in cotton cloth. Oil goes everywhere – on my body, in my hair, on my face, back, heart, inside my nose, colon and even on my eyes. The result of all this oiling, buffing and massaging is baby-soft skin, radiant youthful glow and definitely better sleep. In fact, I go to bed early and wake up without an alarm, something I have never been able to master at home. I try and do some work, but all I want is to stare into the horizon, taking photos of the lush greenery surrounding the Ganges and outlines of Rishikesh, the well-known pilgrimage site where the Beatles famously met the maharishi.

My yoga teacher, Kirit, helps me quiet my mind with meditation and yoga. He is very old school: calm, professional and helps me understand that my movements affect my life choices. “Fish pose, alligator pose and bow pose are the best for you,” he says and encourages I do them every single day. Pranayama and Yoga Nidra with Kirit allow me to drift in and out of consciousness, my thoughts unraveling into dreams.

“It is better to conquer yourself than to win a thousand battles,” I come across a quote from Gautama Buddha, and somewhere between massages, yoga and meditation, I begin to unravel my mind.

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Experiencing India the Aman Way Blessed in Bali INTERVIEW: Hotel Design Guru Alexandra Champalimaud

Surrounded by lush rice paddy fields and coconut groves in Bali, the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan feels like a lost paradise. With the sacred Ayung River running below and a lush jungle surrounding the resort, there are few places on earth where the physical and spiritual are intensely connected.

Fresh from recent renovations to all of its villas, guestrooms and spa, Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan melds modern design with traditional elements. The recent upgrades are inspired by the island’s natural and serene beauty by using materials sourced from Bali including traditional ikat fabrics, shell, coconut and Balinese handicrafts and colors inspired by nature, such as the dark orange of a sunset and shades of green and brown from the trees.

In this magical setting local teachers offers yogic-healing, chakra-balancing, meditation, sound healing, and personal immersion, drawing on the healing energy inherent in our own souls as well as the energy and vibrancy from the surrounding environment. Four Seasons Resort Bali created this wellness retreat as a natural continuation to a new spa concept, introduced a year ago, which incorporates authentic spiritual traditions, such as chakra balancing, Balinese Ayurvedic practices, the power of nature, yoga, and meditation to maintain wellness and peace of mind.

Email kristina@wandermelon.com to APPLY for a place at our next retreat in Bali.

To learn more or to reserve,  visit here.

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Liz Laing explores local farms throughout Mesa and Queen Creek, staying in a decked out 1969 Airstream, and marveling at Sonoran Desert sunsets.

Schnepf Farms flowers | Photo: Liz Laing

The Cozy Peach at Schnepf Farms (Queen Creek, AZ)

Have you ever wanted to spend the night in a 1969 airstream? Now’s your chance… Schnepf Farms recently opened The Cozy Peach, a unique glamping experience in renovated airstreams and vintage trailers.

Cozy Peach Airstream | Photo: Liz Laing

Owners, Carrie and Mark Schnepf are the most welcoming hosts you’ll find and their popular family-run farm is well-known for its U-pick produce, seasonal festivals and wedding venues. Carrie has been the primary force behind renovating the trailers, giving each one a different look, from retro, to shabby chic and Parisian. Guests can enjoy the tranquility of nature, while still having the comforts of plush bedding, flat screen TVs, showers, fridges and air conditioning.

Cozy Peach outdoor dinner | Photo: Liz Laing

At night you can stargaze, make s’mores, and sit around the campfire telling stories. After a restful night,hop on a bike and get breakfast at the Farm Café and Bakery, just a short ride from the trailers.

Arizona Goat Yoga(Gilbert, AZ)

AZ Goat Yoga | Photo: Liz Laing

Goat yoga seems to be popping up all over the place these days. In Gilbert, AZ Goat Yoga takes place outside at the Welcome Home Ranch and combines pet therapy and yoga. Simply watching these gentle creatures roam around is highly entertaining — some are wearing tutus and Hawaiian shirts, as if they’re not cute enough already! During the guided yoga class, the goats may jump up on you while striking a pose, but since laughter is one of the therapeutic benefits of goat yoga, it’s all good.

Fresh Foodie Trail (Mesa, AZ)

Olive Mill | Photo: Liz Laing

Immerse yourself in agritourism (tourism centered around agriculture) and discover fresh, local food from more than a dozen family farms and culinary shops on the Fresh Foodie Trail.The Queen Creek Olive Mill is one stop you won’t want to miss. Take a tour of Arizona’s only working olive farm and mill, taste a variety of high-quality EVOO, dine at their Tuscan-inspired eatery, and shop for gourmet “olive-inspired” goodies to take home. Don’t leave without trying a super moist Meyer Lemon Olive Oil Cupcake.

Agritopia® (Gilbert, AZ)

Farms Lettuce | Photo: Liz Laing

Agritopia® is a unique urban farm community and a “modern day village,” with a 12-acre organic farm, a chef-driven restaurant, coffee shop and artisan collective — to name just a few. Urban agriculture integrated into the neighborhood is meant to encourage residents to come together and enjoy the local offerings with friends and family. Stop in for lunch at the infamous Joe’s Farm Grill, which used to be the founding family’s original homestead — now converted into a mid-century diner that serves top-notch American fare and harvests ingredients from the farm.

Garage-East Farm Winery | Photo: Liz Laing

Check out some Arizona wines and do a tasting at Garage-East Farm Winery — try the breakfast wine, made with locally grown citrus, similar to a mimosa, but better! The winery is housed inside Barnone, a shiny metallic Quonset hut in Agritopia and features a community of artists making handcrafted goods, a vegan cafe, pizzeria, brewery, and more.

Cloth & Flame Dinner, Peralta Canyon

Cloth Flame Table Sunset | Photo: Liz Laing

Dine amount the saguaro and witness a stunning Sonoran sunset, as you feast on a 5-course, farm-to-table dinner, overlooking Peralta Canyon. The off-road location, surrounded by the Superstition Mountains, is well worth the drive. When you arrive, you’ll be in awe of the beautifully set, 150ft wooden table and the view. Share stories with your neighbors while sharing heaping plates of fresh food, prepared by accomplished chefs. As you witness the sky glowing pink as the sun melts into the horizon, you’ll be thrilled to have experienced such a special evening. See upcoming Cloth & Flame dinners here.

Desert Botanical Garden, Phoenix

Desert Botanical Garden | Photo: Liz Laing

This world class botanical garden is the largest in the Southwest and showcases 55,000 plants from across the world. Cactus and flowers never looked so good! Ever-changing art exhibitions throughout the gardens add even more dimension to the experience. Follow a trail and see where it leads as you discover the beauty of desert plants. Make sure to visit the Butterfly Pavillion on the Desert Wildflower Loop Trail.

The Gladly, Phoenix

The Gladly Salad | Photo: Liz Laing

Phoenix has become a foodie destination of late and it’s easy to see why The Gladly was named as one of Phoenix’s best new restaurants (same owners of the critically acclaimed Citizen Public House), with Chef Bernie Kantak’s satisfying comfort food menu. The stylish bar boasts a world-class craft beverage program and over 200 whiskies. Order a drink with a “magic” ice cube that is made at your table into a perfect glass-like sphere. You have to try their famous Original Chopped Salad (sub avocado for salmon), Roasted Brussels Sprouts Over Sweet Corn Grits and Pan Seared Scallops.

The Wigwam Resort & Spa, Phoenix

       

Wigwam Tower Pool | Photo: Liz Laing

 History and luxury meet seamlessly at The Wigwam, an iconic Arizona landmark, with adobe-style casitas and beautifully appointed rooms and suites, nestled among flower gardens and towering palms. Kids will love the twisting water slides at the Tower Pool where all the action is — guests looking for a more serene experience may prefer to cool off in the Oasis Pool. Other activities include tennis, golf and lawn games. When hunger strikes, grab dinner on-site at Litchfield’s, the resort’s signature restaurant featuring farm-to-table dishes and locally sourced produce.

 Hot Air Expeditions, Phoenix

Hot air balloon | Photo: Liz Laing

 Watching the sunrise from a hot air balloon while floating above the Phoenix landscape and Sonoran Desert is an unforgettable experience. Hot Air Expeditions will pick-up guests at the Wigwam (in the very early morning) and take them to an open field from which to ascend. It’s exciting to watch the giant balloon fill with air from motorized fans. Once upright, propane burners are ignited to heat the air inside. In about 30 minutes, it’s time to fly! Once you step into the hand-crafted gondola, you’ll begin to float up from the ground and the view of the city expands — the views are breathtaking. The ride itself feels like you’re not even moving, since you are flying with the wind. It’s very peaceful up there. Once you come back down to Earth, you’re welcomed with a catered breakfast and champagne toast. As you raise your glass to your successful flight, take a moment to appreciate all the beauty that Arizona has to offer.

Desert Sunset | Photo: Liz Laing

www.visitmesa.com

www.VisitPhoenix.com 

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Guests wear traditional yukata robes whilst staying at Japanese inn, Hanafubuki | Photo: Kristina Foster

The Izu peninsula is a resort area popular for hot springs, statuesque coastlines, and scenic mountains. Located about 60 miles southwest of Tokyo and just two hours by fast train, Izu is a popular escape for locals.

The suspended bridge on the Izu peninsula offers spectacular views | Photo: Kristina Foster

We started by sliding into the hotel slippers and traditional yukata robes at Yokikan, the oldest ryokan (Japanese inn) in the beachside suburb of Ito. Akihisa Inaba and his wife are the fifth generation of his lineage to run this humble resort. As with most ryokans, the resort centrepiece is the communal hot spring bath. Men and women have separate soaking times and bathers always shower off before submerging into the spa, stark naked with only a small hand towel for coverage.

After a few embarrassed glances, my daughter and I checked we were alone and stripped off, sinking into the outdoor pool of natural spring waters – the perfect ‘aching legs’ remedy. Yokikan has remained fairly unchanged for the last 110 years (bar some modern creature comforts such as air conditioning) and boasts a quirky cable car that hauled us straight from the soothing, hot bubbles to the fluffy futon beds in our traditional tatami mat room.

Forget your inhibitions and relax in the outdoor hot spring at Yokikan with views to the sea | Photo: Kristina Foster

The next morning as we wandered out, the neighbourhood was abuzz. Teams of zany costumed villagers from all around the region had gathered by the riverbank. Ito hosts the Tarai-nori Kyoso, an annual washtub boat race.

Wacky costumed competitors; Mario Bros take on the masked sumos | Photo: Kristina Foster

On the first Sunday of July, more than 200 competitors frantically paddle rice-scoop shaped oars as they barrel down Matsukawa River inside wooden Japanese washtubs.

Racers splash down a quarter mile length in the shallows of the Matsukawa River | Photo: Kristina Foster

Inaba-san, our gracious host at the Yokikan and community bigwig, pulled some strings, scoring the kids a highly sought after entry into the popular contest. As the commentator belted out their names in Japanese, my seven-year old son, Jack spun all the way over the finish line, narrowly beating his sister by scooping a jumbo splash of water right into her eyes – a little brother strategy that brought fat chuckles from the crowd of merry spectators.

Winning the washtub race was a trip highlight that my son reported to everyone he met | Photo: Kristina Foster

Next we dried off and spruced up for a trip further down the peninsula to Hanafabuki in the rocky township of Izu Kogen. Nestled in a lush forest beside black, volcanic cliffs this isolated luxury inn radiates serenity.

We were led over a little bridge to the outskirts of the sprawling woodland, an ideal family villa location for rowdy youngsters – far away from loved up honeymooners and tetchy twilighters. The individual private hot spring spas scattered throughout the leafy grounds were a welcome relief to our brood of prude nude bathers.

Tune into nature in the private indoor-outdoor baths at Hanafubuki | Photo: Kristina Foster

After a tranquilizing, hot soak we sat down for a kaiseki (multi-course) dinner with the nostalgic 77-year old creator of Hanafubuki, Shingo Ichikawa, a wholehearted environmentalist. His son and Hanafabuki’s head chef, Daigo Ichikawa prepared a plethora of impeccable culinary delights. Daigo’s haute cuisine is a work of art highlighting seasonal and local specialties, with many ingredients foraged from the forest floor. From the starter of silky Mineoka tofu, a dish from the Edo period of 1603, to the cherry leaf flavored sea bream sashimi and pheasant and leek skewers, our tastebuds were singing like the Japanese robins perched outside the window.

Dinner at Hanafubuki is a chest of treasures with the shrimp donut an all-round family jewel | Photo: Kristina Foster

As the sun rose the following day, we took a slow amble down a mossy pathway beside a brook, which opened up to the spectacular Jogasaki coastline. Waves crashed onto the dark, jagged cliffs and the beauty of nature was truly laid bare.

Volcanic lava stone formations line the hiking trail of the Jogasaki coast | Photo: Kristina Foster

Following the invigorating hike, the tribe submerged into our last hot spring bath. As the forest owls hooted that the day was over, wistfully we knew it was time to get fully-clothed and back on life’s fast train.

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1. Runyon Canyon, Hollywood Hills

Hands down, the trail on which you’re most likely to spot Jared Leto running with his shirt off is Runyon Canyon, a heavily populated, dog-friendly park with dirt trails, paved roads, and stairs. And if you forget to bring water or snacks, there’s an unmanned stand at the Fuller entrance with Crystal Geyser on ice, bananas, and granola bars, with an insert slot for $1/each, based on the “honor system.” Enjoy views from downtown to Century City, and especially the Hollywood Hills mansions we all covet.

Yoga class at Runyon

Why it’s great for yogis: Runyon Canyon offers daily donation yoga classes, located on the lawn at the Fuller entrance. Taught by an outstanding team of instructors, you can stretch out your limbs several times a day. Classes run one hour and no dogs are allowed on the lawn. The instructors are the real deal, so don’t skim on the donations.

2. Temescal Canyon, Pacific Palisades

Cave in Temescal Canyon

Quite the opposite of Runyon in many ways, Temescal Canyon creates the sensation that it’s just you and the wilderness. There are no dogs allowed on this one, so leave your Chihuahua or Dire wolf at home. You’ll definitely feel as though you’re not in LA anymore. Since you will be shaded and secluded for much of the hike, bring plenty of water, bug spray, and snacks or lunch. This woodsy hike boasts a small waterfall, caves, and Skull Rock, a head-shaped sandstone perfect for enjoying glorious Pacific Ocean views. As it’s a much more time consuming trek, plan to spend at least 3-4 hours to enjoy everything Temescal has to offer.

Lawn at the base of Temescal Canyon

Why it’s great for yogis: At the start (or end) of the trail stands fresh green grass, shaded with trees and just private enough to lay out some mats and stretch it out. While not an official yoga class like Runyon, seasoned yogis and the occasional participant can enjoy a self-practice, even if it’s just a 10-minute meditation or a few Sun Salutations.

3. Griffith Park, Los Feliz

Hollywood Sign

Everyone needs to try this hike at least once, if only for a great view of the iconic Hollywood sign.  With entrances in Los Feliz and Burbank, you’ll find beginner, intermediate, and advanced trails to suit your mood and level. Your four-legged friends can join you, but please observe their leash-only policy.  You may see a line of horseback riders, as Sunset Ranch operates from nearby Beachwood. And remember, don’t break into the Hollywood sign unless you know a good bail bondsman in the area.

Why it’s great for yogis: Two words: Hiking Yoga. Started in 2009 by a former tour guide, this group fitness experience has spread to cities all over the country. Here in LA, Hiking Yoga meets every weekend near the tall statue in front of the Observatory. Your leader will guide you through beginner-friendly hiking trails, with scenic stops along the way for some all-level poses. This 90-minute trek-and-stretch will fly by due to the fun you’re having. Regular price is $20, but keep your eyes open for Groupon or similar deals.

4. Escondido Falls, Malibu

Ocean view trail to the waterfall

As the name suggests, you’ll find not one, not two, but three glorious waterfalls on this trail. The walk to the first waterfall delivers immediate sparkling ocean views along a mansion-filled street. A relative easy start will take you to a swing, where many enjoy snapping selfies. It’s here that you’ll discover the first waterfall, cascading down along lush greens. If you’re feeling more adventurous, you can grab the ropes and do some rock climbing to the second, more majestic, tiered waterfall, where you can relax and have lunch. You’ve made it this far, so keep climbing to reach waterfall number 3—you’ll feel like the King (or Queen) of the World.

Why it’s great for yogis: Two miles north on Heathercliff Road sits Michelle Kronenberg’s 5-star yoga studio. If you’re hiking on a Monday, enjoy a two-hour restorative yoga class afterwards, as it’s the most relaxing, stress-relieving type of yoga practice, perfect following a long hike. Let Michelle, a yoga instructor for 16 years, melt away your tension. Restorative yoga benefits beginners and regulars alike, and will feel well earned after exerting muscles you didn’t know you had.

5. Boney Mountain Peak, Newbury Park

View of the top from a cave- Boney Mountain

Talk about a misnomer. With the gargantuan, steep mountains, this day-long hike is anything but bony. At 9.5 miles and an elevation of 2800 feet, Boney Mountain Peak holds the title for the highest point in the Santa Monica Mountains. After starting out in a gorgeous meadow, be prepared to climb the final stretch on hands and knees while fighting the loose rock along the way. You might want to try other hikes before attempting this one—it’s not for beginners. When you reach the top, you’ll enjoy some jaw-dropping, 360-degree views.

Waterfall Yoga

Why it’s great for yogis: Because you’ll need it after the day you’ve had. If you can still feel your legs after this one, plop down in the meadow and stretch. And breathe. Or just let out a big “OMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM……..”

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