H.G.P. Diver 300m Automatic Commando

H.G.P., a brand that was resurrected in 2023, is known for the Monnin 844 case. This one here, though, is somthing different. The French brand’s latest model is the H.G.P. Diver 300m Automatic Commando, a watch with a historical reference, and is using the Monnin 980 case. And if you scrolled through the pics already, you may be thinking it looks a lot like a Squale case, and you would be correct, but there are quite a few differences, especially on this modern version. The case is 41.5mm, a mix of brushed and polished stainless steel, and has the iconic “Scuba Dude” on the dial. At this time, there’s only one dial color, black, which matches the vintage model, and no bracelet; rather, a Tropic rubber or nylon strap, and the current price is $616, though that price seems to fluctuate a few dollars every few days.

Specifications

41.5mm Stainless Steel Case

48.5mm Lug to Lug

11.9mm Thick

20mm Lugs

95 Grams

Screw Down Crown and 

Case Back

300m Water Resistant

Sapphire Crystal

120 Click Bi-directional bezel

Aluminum Bezel Insert

Miyota 9039 Auto Movement

C3 Super-LumiNova 

Price $616

https://www.hgp-watches.com/collections/diver-300m-automatic-commando/products/diver-300m-automatic-commando-diving-watch

In the video review above, I give a brief history with some pics of the original H.G.P. Diver 300m Automatic Commando, though that is the name now, as the originals were mostly quartz as far as I have seen. That is at least the H.G.P. versions, as this case was designed by Monnin, produced by MRP SA, and used by many other brands such as Sinn, Dodane, Airin, and quite a few others. Basically, this case and dial got around. Now here we are, over 40 years later, almost 50 years actually, with its rebirth. The original case did look much more like the Squale 50 Atmos, with large curved lugs and case profile, but this modern version has its own identity.

As you can see above and below, the case is very distinct, with much less curve to the lugs than a Squale 1521 case, though it does have the extended block on the case, the bumper if you will, that leads into the crown, as this is what creates the integrated crown guards, keeping the crown safe from knocks and bumps. And unlike the Squale, this crown is not as large and is a little more recessed. The crown action is somewhat unique, and maybe that’s the wrong word for it, but I did find I was not overly fond of the crown action, as it lacked a noticeable click when unscrewing, and it also had no real feedback when pushing it back down into the case. This feels intentional, and maybe it’s just a smoother action of a crown that I am not used to.

The case of the H.G.P. Diver 300m Automatic Commando (man, that’s a long name, isn’t it?) only comes in one case finish, brushed and polished. I say that because these days, the Squale can be had in all polished, all blasted, or even all brushed now. And while choices are great, I do love what H.G.P. did here; the case is mostly brushed, with high polished accents, like on the lugs, where you can see that the polished chamfer flares out and accentuates the lug design. The crown is polished, and the area around the bezel insert is polished, as well as the area in between the lugs.

And then we have that dial, that oh-so-awesome dial. Yes, this dial is busy, exactly as the original was, with a lot of text, those giant hour indices, the chapter ring numbers, the 24-hour numbers, and of course, the Scuba Dude. I admit, and many have heard me over the years, I prefer a much cleaner dial generally, but there’s something about this dial. Maybe it’s because it’s a vintage reference, maybe it’s because it reminds me of dive watches I owned back in the 80s and 90s, or because with a matte black (though slightly textured) dial and the white hands, and those massive indices, this is easy to read at a glance, especially coupled with a rare flat sapphire crystal on a dive watch.

The bezel is bi-directional, somewhat odd for a modern dive watch, but it is 120 clicks and has a nice tactile feel about it, and maybe a little more odd, it has a countdown scale instead of elapsed time. Now this is not uncommon; there are many different ways to use a bezel, but I don’t remember offhand the last time I saw both combined. It is a great-looking bezel though, and I do like the matte anodized aluminum insert, as it has that vintage vibe to it, though I am sure some would want a ceramic or sapphire bezel; for this style of watch, I feel aluminum works well.

Around the back, it’s pretty simple: an almost mirror-polished back and lugs, with a center circle that is brushed. I would prefer it to all be brushed, but at least it’s on the back and not the front. The center area shows the serial numbers, and if you look at that right lug, you’ll see the George Monnin stamp, a nice little touch. Inside is the Miyota 9039; that’s the no-date version of the 9015, and I have no complaints with this movement- never have, and unlike many with this movement, I do not hear that rotor loudly spinning around.

This is usually the part of the review I will show and discuss it on the wrist, but I think I will stop making you wait for the lume shots, because I know some are just chomping at the bit for them. As one would hope and expect, the H.G.P. Diver 300m Automatic Commando looks absolutely amazing in the dark. The lume is 7 layers of Super-LumiNova, and it shows. Expect an all-night lume here; no issues seeing the time if you have to do a bathroom break or check on the little one.

Now I am sure I will catch some flak for this, but if you are reading this and always hope that the watch being reviewed is over 40mm, well, jump up and rejoice, as this one is 41.5mm. And even better, it wears like a 42mm! I am sure some guys who love 38mm watches are shaking their fists and maybe even fingers at me right now, and that’s ok, but us guys who still prefer a watch over 40mm need some love now and then as well. I think it’s great all the choices these days, and that guys who prefer a smaller watch, or just have a smaller wrist, have an abundance of watches these days, but for me, just look how great this one looks on my 7 1/2 inch (19.05cm) wrist.

No bracelet options, at least not yet, and that’s somewhat of a bummer as I was hoping for a nice beads of rice bracelet for this one. The choices are the rally Tropic rubber as shown in this review, or a simple nylon strap, for a few dollars less. The Tropic is fine, but I would have loved something with fitted lugs, and while it does fit my wrist, if you have a wrist much bigger than mine, you’ll need to replace the strap. Fortunately, it is a widely available 20mm.

I am pretty much in love with the H.G.P. Diver 300m Automatic Commando, and no, I don’t feel ashamed as a reviewer to state that. This checks a lot of boxes for me personally, with the case design, it being 41.5mm, though still pretty thin at just a little under 12mm, the crazy and funky dial, and of course that lume. It’s an attractive watch; it’s affordable (half the price of a Squale 1521), and though the cases are made in China, they are assembled in France, and to be frank, with this case design and finishing, it could have been made anywhere, and I wouldn’t balk at it, and quite frankly, most cases are made in China these days.

I do have to get used to the more hydraulic feeling and silent crown action, and I do wish there were different straps or a bracelet option, but as is, this is still a pretty good value all things considered, and I hope we will see more variation with this case design from H.G.P. in the future.

H.G.P.

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Traska Venturer GMT

Traska, as I am sure many of you know, is quite a popular microbrand. The Traska Venturer GMT may be one of their most popular models as well, and for Version 7, they have upped the ante even more. Taking a lot of design cues from The Chronograph floating disc release earlier this year, this new Venturer has refined dial details, slightly smaller crowns, a new bracelet with polished chamfers, and a new dial color, the one I have in hand, Arctic White. All these refinements and upgrades do come at a cost, a $150 cost, as the previous gen sold at $800, and this one will debut at $950 later this month.

Specifications

38.5mm Stainless Steel Case

1200 HV Hard Coating

10.15mm Thick

12.1mm Thick With Crystal

46.1mm Lug to Lug

21mm Lug Width

134 Grams

Box Sapphire Crystal

Screw Down Crowns

150m Water Resistant

Miyota 9075 GMT Movement

21mm Bracelet, Tapers to 16mm. 

Fully Articulated Bracelet

Quick Adjusting Clasp

Price $950
https://www.traskawatch.com/collections/venturer

So, why is the Traska Venturer GMT so popular? Well, the original model, which debuted in 2021, was a more minimalist GMT, as it wasn’t technically a true GMT model, as while it had a rotating 24-hour internal bezel, it lacked a GMT hand. V2 brought the GMT hand, but at the time, it was still a very tidy and compact GMT watch, with that internal bezel instead of a chunky external bezel, and that compactness wasn’t just limited to the dial; rather, it was all housed in a 38.5mm case that was just a touch over 10mm thick, not including the crystal. For those who just prefer a smaller watch or those with smaller wrists, this gave them a new option, one that was not only functional but refined and, dare I say, understated.

With each new generation of the Traska Venturer GMT, there were little tweaks here and there, maybe a new dial color, or a meteorite dial option, and it generally followed suit to what Traska was doing with their other models. That is, until V7, this latest version, where it has received a pretty big overhaul, the biggest to date for the Venturer.

Taking many cues from The Chronograph as Traska refers to it, this Venturer has a new case finishing with concave polished cutouts, faceted hour indices, an applied logo, diamond-cut brushed and polished hands, and that new date wheel design. The bracelet has upgrades as well, and even the lug width has changed, from 20mm to 21mm.

I absolutely love the refinements to the case. The basic design is the same, meaning the mid case still has a similar footprint as previous models, but now with those polished chamfers surrounding a gorgeous brushed case, instead of the prevous polished case sides, it not only looks more refined, but will hide scratches and fingerprints so much better than before. The crown has been tapered a bit, well, both crowns have been every so slightly reduced in size, and of course, they have multiple finishes as well, with a gorgeous polished chamfer between the gear pattern grip and the Traska logo face. Both crowns screw down, allowing you to lock that inner GMT bezel in place.

Speaking of that internal GMT bezel, the diameter has been increased slightly so it’s even more legible, and this Arctic White Traska Venturer GMT has a light grey inner bezel with almost a blasted or frosted finish to it, contrasting against a matte enamel dial.

This dial is lacking in color pop, though. Between the white dial and the light grey bezel, the only pop or contrast is the blue GMT text and the blue around the GMT hand pointer. While it may have been on purpose for a less flashy, or maybe even a very subdued look, I can’t help thinking a blue bezel would have really set this dial off more.

Don’t get me wrong, I love all the other improvements on the dial. The diamond-cut hands are gorgeous, as are the faceted indices, and I do love the date at 6 with the new diamond-cut surround. It’s a stunning dial, and those hands and indices can really sparkle when they catch the light, the same as the new applied Traska logo, again taken from The Chronograph, but currently that means only two Traska models have that applied logo, and it makes sense, I think, to keep it to the higher-tier models like this one and the chrono.

The movement is the Miyota 9075, a movement that has been quite popular with microbrands in the last few years, as it is a very affordable way to get a “true” GMT watch, with a jumping hour hand instead of a moveable GMT hand. This module, though, does delete the quick-set date function, but you don’t have to circle the dial with the hands for a few minutes if you haven’t worn the watch in a week; rather, you can use that jumping hour hand to advance the date quickly.

Around back, you will not see the Miyota 9075 movement. Traska instead decided to keep their very clean and utilitarian case back. I have no issue with this, as I don’t think the 9075 or any of the 9000 series movements are all that attractive, and it appears the case back has the same 1200 HV coating as the wrist of the watch, keeping it scratch-free longer.

The bracelet of the Traska Venturer GMT has a lot of upgrades as well, with new shorter links, all brushed with a polished chamfer on the sides, that again, really gleam in the light and give the bracelet some added dimension and pop. The links are still held together with one-piece screws, which have an actual stopping point, so no worrying about ruining the screw heads with over-torquing, and of course, there’s the on-the-fly adjustment clasp, perfect for the days when your wrist swells.

The lug width, and of course the bracelet width at the top, has changed, though, to 21mm, which means the case width at the lugs is every so slightly wider, and now the bracelet being wider as well, it gives the impression of a slightly larger watch, while still retaining the 38.5mm case. The downside is, of course, finding a replacement strap, be it rubber or leather, if you want to take off the bracelet. Oh, taking the bracelet off is easy, though, with quick-release bars on the back of the end links.

Between the case back, the new shorter links in the bracelet, and of course the bracelet links still being fully articulated, the Traska Venturer GMT is a joy to wear, even on my 7 1/2 inch (19.05cm) wrist. I do not mean to infer that it wouldn’t be comfortable on my wrist, as I knew it was going to be, but more so that even at this smaller size, it doesn’t feel tiny to me like some under 40mm watches do. While more of that bracelet is on my upper wrist than I would like, I still think this watch is completely doable for me at this size. Would I still prefer a 40mm? Yes, I would, but it doesn’t matter as this watch will probably be just as popular as the prevous models, and many prefer a smaller watch like this.

The lume is still Grade A BGW9 Super-LumiNova, and even with a small dial and small areas for the lume to be applied, this Venturer GMT glows really well, very bright initially, and should last around 3-4 hours in the dark. The inner GMT bezel is lumed as well, but don’t expect that to be visible for those 4 hours; it fades rather quickly.

It’s hard to argue that the Traska Venturer GMT still holds a lot of value. Yes, the price has increased, but so has the case finishing, dial finishing, the bracelet has pretty much been completely redone, and well, Miyota 9075 movements are not cheap right now, and Miyota is extremely backed up with orders, many of them not arriving till 2017 for brands who recently placed an order. This is still a compact, clean and classy GMT,  one that can easily be worn every day at the office and for travel or even on weekends, just because.

It will be a perfect everyday watch for many, and all the refinements are very apparent. The Arctic white dial is not my favorite color; I wish it had more pop, but I know the black dial and steel blue will probably sell out quickly, as they are staples of this model, and for good reason. If you are interested in this model, and this is not a sales tactic, I don’t do that here, make sure you join the waitlist on their website so you get notified when they are in stock. If the past is any indication, these will sell out really fast.

Traska

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Vuclain Skindiver GMT

Vulcain has 3 variations using their Skindiver case: the standard Skindiver, a Chronograph version, and this one, the Vulcain Skindiver GMT. It takes the same 38.3mm case used for the diver, but adds a new dial, a GMT complication with date, by the way of a Soprod C125 automatic movement, and its available in a few different color ways, black with white, black with beige, and a white with beige, as well as two limited edition models, a purple dial, and this one, the blue dial, the only one to have a sunray dial instead of a matte low gloss dial. What’s interesting is that, because this started as a dive watch, it still retains a screw-down crown and 200m of water resistance, and of course, there’s a domed sapphire and a ceramic bezel insert. MSRP for this LE of 100 is $2,330. 

Specifications

Limited Edition Blue Dial

38.3mm Stainless Steel Case

12.2mm Thick

44mm Lug to Lug

6.3mm Screw Down Crown

78 Grams

Domed Sapphire Crystal

Ceramic 24 Hour Bezel Insert

Soprod C125 Automatic GMT Movement

Blue Tropic Rubber Strap (As reviewed)

Swiss Made

MSRP $2,330 USD

https://vulcain.ch/products/skindiver-gmt-bleue

A little less than 2 years ago, I took a look at the Vulcain Skindiver and was blown away with the overall look, the case design and finishing, and that vertical brushed dial. This Vulcain Skindiver GMT retains that same case but loses a bit of that vintage aesthetic with this sunray dial, vibrant ceramic 24-hour bezel insert, coupled with white indices and numbers, instead of the beige. Some will, of course, like the modern approach here; others will yearn for the vintage appeal of the standard Skindiver. 

Immediately, even though it’s on a sporty tropic rubber strap, I felt this Vulcain Skindiver GMT has more of a casual/dress watch look and feel, and would probably look right at home with a nice leather strap, and there are bracelet options, but more on that in a bit. The sunray dial is one of the big highlights here, and while a sunray dial isn’t really anything special in the watch world, it does differentiate this model from the others in the lineup. 

All the other Skindiver GMTs use a matte dial, and from what I can tell from pics on their website, it has a fine eggshell texture. This blue limited edition uses a beautiful sunray dial that, of course, shimmers in the light, bouncing between a radiant and then a darker shade of blue. In contrast with the white indices, the polished steel hands, and the lighter blue GMT arrow, it really is a striking dial. The GMT text is in that lighter baby blue to match the GMT hand, and this version of the Skindiver does get a date wheel, which is nicely framed in a blasted and polished steel border. 

Initially, there were some glitches on the Vulcain website concerning pricing, and I thought this model was priced much more than the other models, even more than the Purple LE. While the pricing seems to be rectified for the most part, I was trying to find justification for the higher price tag. 

While the Purple and Blue are both Limited editions and $110 more than the standard versions, only this blue dial comes with a sunray patterned dial, and it also has a matching blue ceramic bidirectional bezel insert. The purple has a black bezel. Action is sufficient for a bi-directional bezel, never as fun as a dive bezel, but it does click nicely on each number and has a nice solid feel about it. 

Same with that crown, a screw-down crown, along with that 200m of water resistance, for a dressier GMT watch. I know this is using the same case as the diver, but Vulcain could have easily gone with 100m of water resistance or a non-screw-down crown, as so many do. The crown operates both the standard and GMT arrow, and because of the Soprod C125 GMT movement, it’s pretty much the same as an ETA or Sellita GMT, a caller’s GMT if you will. You will set your time, and then push back to the first position, and you can adjust both your date and the GMT hand. 

The case is very finely brushed, with a polished chamfer that runs the top of the case, and this is just beautiful finishing, very much in line with the price tag. The case has a cutout under the bezel as well, so the bezel actually sits into the case, not on top, allowing for a thinner case overall, which is nice considering how thick that domed sapphire is.

You can see the aforementioned Soprod C125 movement through the sapphire case back, unlike the black and white dial models, which have the same solid case back as the dive watch. Both the Purple and Blue Limited editions get the sapphire case back, showing off the movement, with a nicely decorated rotor and that blue enamel Vulcain logo. 

The Vulcain Skindiver GMT comes on a 20mm blue vulcanized rubber Tropic-style rubber strap, but does not list a bracelet option. Apparently, early on, there was a BOR bracelet option, but that is no longer available. You can purchase the Acier bracelet for $400. Where it gets odd is that if you click on the other versions of the watches that do offer the Acier bracelet as an option, there are different prices. The Purple shows at $2,450 if you choose the bracelet, but the others at $2,671. Seems there is still a glitch going on with the website. 

The blue tropic rubber is a really nice rubber strap, the color matches pretty well to the dial and bezel, and of course, has quick release pins like most straps do these days, and I had no problem fitting it to my 7 1/2 inch (19,05cm) wrist. And on that note, yes, 38.3mm does feel a little small for me; actually, it is small for me as I do prefer a watch 40mm or larger. I will admit, I do love how it looks and feels on my wrist, despite my wishing it were slightly larger. 

And just because it’s a GMT, it doesn’t mean Vulcain forgot about the lume. Sadly, the bezel numbers are not lumed, and that is not needed, but it would have been a nice touch. The indices and hands do glow brightly and last about a good 4 hours. 

I very much do have an affinity for these Skindiver models from Vulcain. I love the case design and finishing, and they seem to get everything right, down to the small details. I am not sure why a bracelet is not offered directly on the site as an option; hopefully that will be rectified soon, but this Vulcain Skindiver GMT is a really nice example of a vintage case style with a modern-style dial and bezel. It is about $500 more than the regular Skindiver, but it, of course, has a more expensive GMT movement, a blue sunray dial, and a sapphire case back, as well as being limited to 100 pieces. The only thing I would change? Make one in 40mm. 

Vulcain

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Victorinox Concept One

One of the reasons I love reviewing and writing about watches is not only the diversity of all the types of watches, but also when a brand branches out and produces a watch with a few things they have not done before. Today, that watch is the Victorinox Concept One, a 39mm stainless steel sports watch. The case may be similar, using the design of the Journey 1884, new Inox, and others, 39mm is not a size Victorinox has done often, and this new model has two distinct versions. The automatic that I am reviewing today, and there’s a solar version as well, and both are firsts for the iconic Swiss brand. The automatic is the first Victorinox to use a La Joux Perret movement, and the solar version is the first time they have used a solar movement, ever. This one has a vertical brushed center dial, 100m of water resistance, and comes on a very comfortable green rubber strap, and retails for $1,450.

Specifications

39mm Stainless Steel Case
21mm Lug Width
46mm Lug to Lug
12mm Thick
108 Grams
Sapphire Crystal Front and Back
Push Pull Crown
La Joux-Perret G100 Movement
100m Water Resistant
Rubber Strap as shown
Possibly Optional Bracelet

Price $1,450

https://www.victorinox.com/en-US/Products/Watches/Men’s-Watches/Concept-One-Automatic/p/242058/

The Victorinox Concept One is somewhat interesting, and I do like a lot about this watch, but I did question why they did not choose to just make a 39mm version of the Inox, seeing as new Inox models use this same case design. But then I started to look at those new Inox models, and started looking at this Concept One even more, and while at first glance many may think this is an Inox light, they are two different watches and serve a different purpose.

The Inox, at least in most of its iterations, is a very rugged and capable watch, one that can be used while hiking, rafting, or in the ocean, and also has extreme shock protection. The Concept One is more of an everyday watch; no crown guards, only 100m water resistant with a push-pull crown, a more artistic (yet still functional) dial design, and this watch just gives off a different vibe, even if at a glance the two watches may look similar.

The overall design, I would say, is a modern everyday type of watch; it’s not what I would call a field watch, and it’s definitely not a tough or extreme watch, yet it still does have a bulky and angled case. The case itself is basically the new Inox case, but sans crown guards, and Victorinox has really been getting their mileage out of this case with all their sport and dive watches the last few years, with the basic case design being introduced with the Journey 1884 model. The vertical brushed case sides, angled lugs, and the integrated lug piece, which gives the strap a more fitted and cohesive look, and the markings on the sides of the case, the steel type on the non-crown side, and the water resistance above the crown.

Speaking of the crown, one criticism I have is that this Victorinox Concept One does not have a screw-down crown. While I am glad that there is 100m of water resistance, I prefer a screw-down crown on my watches; it gives peace of mind that the crown doesn’t accidentally get snagged or pulled out, and while it may not impact water resistance as it’s more about gaskets and fit, in my mind, it’s just an extra layer of security.

The bezel has a similar look to the Inox, but the bezel is polished for the angled or hexagon look, rather than being carved into the bezel. It gives the bezel a faceted look, creating a contrast with the all-brushed case, and both the bezel and crown are highly polished. The bezel does have a scratch-resistant coating applied to it, presumably a clear DLC.  I am guessing this was done to make the Victorinox Concept One less tool watch in appearance, and there’s the white arrow that points to the crown. I still have not figured out what VSA is doing with these arrows; there’s one below the date wheel as well.

But my favorite part of the Victorinox Concept One is the dial, specifically the dial on this automatic version as while the Solar model does share the same overall look and bowl-shaped dial, it has a more transparent dial to allow for solar charging. Here on this automatic model, the center dial is vertically brushed, and I love the way this looks. You can see in the various pictures in this review, and in viewing the video above, that depending on the light and angle, this olive green dial can look olive green, but then shine a light on it or turn it a little, and it is a much lighter shade, almost a yellowish/green look about it, and it creates a two-tone dial.

There are other colors available, but I really do love this green, and I also do love the dial shape here. Call it a bowl shape, a stadium dial, whatever you call it, it is somewhat unique and not a dial you see often. I love how the indices are inset into the bowl edge, and I like the brushed vertical center, which seems to be a separate piece on the dial, though I am not sure if it is, in fact, a two-piece dial. It’s a clean, simple, and easy-to-read dial, with the date located at 6 o’clock, and while the case design is shared with other VSA models, this Victorinox Concept One does not share the same blocky, square skeleton type hands as the other models, opting for more straightforward, thin sword hands.

Victorinox has many models in their lineup where you can choose either a quartz or automatic version, and it’s one of the things that sets a brand like VSA apart from other mainstream brands and micros as well. But this time around, Victorinox chose to go with a solar movement for the less expensive model. I did not get my hands on the solar model, but it does show it to have a 7-year rechargeable battery, and it will run you about $500 less than its automatic counterpart shown here.

This is another first for Victorinox, though, as this is the first time they have used a La Joux Perret movement, this one being the G100 with date. This is the second watch in a row I have reviewed with this movement, the Straum Jan Mayen having the dateless version, and like the Straum, you can see the 68-hour power reserve movement through the glass case back, though on this Concept One, it is obscured a bit by the use of the laser-etched Swiss Army Knife on the glass. These are solid movements, though, and I appreciate the longer power reserve.

39mm is another first for Victorinox, ar least in recent history. Im sure at some point in time, they made 39mm watches but unless we are talking womens watches, Victorinox, especially when it comes to the sport and dive watches have been producing at least 40mm watches, if not 41 and higher, and at one point were making 45mm Inox watches. So, for those that prefer a sub 40mm watch, made for a gentleman, (though I would argue this can definitely be a unisex watch as well),  its here in the Concept One.

As Victorinox tends to do, there is a stainless bracelet version; the bracelet is relegated to the black dial (both automatic and solar). The rest of the colors are on rubber straps. Now these are very nice rubber straps, both in appearance and comfort, and have quick-release pins and a push button deploytant clasp, which goes on as a standard buckle would with a prong, but you get to set it once basically and put it on like a bracelet. No cutting to fit here, which is the way it should be, and while no microadjustments in the clasp, I find there are plenty of holes to get a good fit, at least with my 7 1/2 inch (19.05cm) wrist. Note, I did have to wear it one hole up than I probably would normally, as the clasp and strap can slide around a bit otherwise, due to the weight of the watch head, but I never felt it was too tight on my wrist, and wearing it for a week, I really enjoyed how it wore and how it looked on my wrist. If you want to change out the strap, though, be aware that it’s only 21mm.

Yes, there is lume on the Victorinox Concept One, and I knew just by looking at the dial and the smaller indices that this was not going to be the best lume, and it’s not. It does light up nicely initially and the logo lumes as well, but don’t expect it to be glowing very brightly, if at all, 3 hours later.

There’s a lot to like with the Victorinox Concept One, and while I know Victorinox is a large company and has a long history, I am still in awe at how they can produce different variants of the same model, with different movements and different price points, to attract different types of buyers. The solar, I am sure, is a good option for those wanting a watch that is very care-free, no winding, no power reserve, and a 7-year lifespan on the battery/capacitor.

This La Joux Perret automatic version is targeting the watch enthusiasts, of course, and as always, VSA makes a well-finished and solid-feeling watch, but it’s not without its quirks, such as the push-pull crown, a 21mm lug width, and why can’t I have a choice of bracelet or strap on every color? The bracelet, which is available in their accessories section, sells for $285, which would put the automatic version over $1,700. I guess if you really love a bracelet, it may be worth it, but the need to start offering a choice of bracelets or straps for each model.

I do think it was smart of them to start offering 39mm men’s watches; the market is there for it, and that is a very popular size at this time. While I do prefer a slightly larger watch, I did find this watch to wear well on my wrist, and it is attractive, but again, quirky as usual.

Victorinox

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Jan Mayen Titanium Aurora Sky

I can’t believe it’s been four years since I reviewed the Straum Opphav, the debut model of the Norwegian brand. Since then, they have been releasing these Jan Mayen models, and twerking both the dials and the case along the way. Now they have new Arctic dials and have put them in both steel and titanium watch cases, and today I have one of the latest models in titanium, the Straum Jan Mayen Titanium Aurora Sky. This gorgeous watch has a 39mm blasted and polished Grade 5 titanium case, with a dial patterned after the colors of the Northern Lights, the La Joux-Perret G101 no date movement, and a very unique quick-release strap system. There are other colors availbe and hopefully a titanium bracelet at some point, and the starting price is $2500.

Specifications

38.7mm Grade 5 Titanium Case

41mm (9-3) Including Crown

45.7mm Lug to Lug

11.5mm Thick Excluding Crown

82 Grams 

100m Water Resistant

Screw Down Crown

Double Domed Sapphire

Super-LumiNova hands and indices 

LJP G101 Automatic Movement

Custom FKM Rubber Strap System

Price $2500 Including Taxes and Duties Included 

https://straum.co/collections/jan-mayen-arctic-titanium

I was very enamoured with the Straum Opphav when I reviewed it, and at the time, it was quite a bold move for a debuting microbrand to hit the scene with a watch such as that, and that original model had a price tag of around $800. In the last four years, Straum has evolved even more with the Jan Mayen models, and this latest collection is really impressive.

The case on this Straum Jan Mayen Titanium Aurora Sky is all titanium, of course, grade 5 titanium. and it has an absolutely exquisite micro-blasted finish. This is an extremely smooth, blasted finish, with an almost satin feeling to the touch. To offset the light grey case finish are polished accents around the bezel area, on top of the crown, chamfers running the top and bottom of the case, and on the first link area below the lugs. Another improvement over the Opphav model-a screw down crown. While many may not care for a 100m watch like this, for me, this makes this watch with an art dial a piece that I can daily wear.

This case is also 39mm, a somewhat big departure from the Opphav, which was 41mm. I know I usually discuss the size and how it wears towards the end of the review, but being someone who does prefer a watch over 40mm, primarily in that 41-42mm size range, I was really surprised how well this watch wears. The Jan Mayen wears larger and measures 41mm east to west, including the crown, and at no point did I ever feel this watch looked small on my 7 1/2 inch (19.05cm) wrist. This watch felt right at home the moment I put it on.

And while Straum is definitely more than just striking, out-of-this-world dials, their dials are still a huge part of what attracts so many to their watches. With their new Arctic dial collection, they have taken their dials even further, with more colors, more gradients, and new textures. The Straum Jan Mayen Titanum Aurora Sky dial mimics the night sky of the Northern lights with robust greens and blues and deep blue, almost black at the bottom of the chipped rock texture dial. While I love a basic diver or field watch, wearing this watch makes me feel like I have a $50,000 watch on my wrist. It’s just so beautiful, and I love how the dial plays with the light.

They also went ahead and made these dials as clean as possible. No text except the brand name, below the beautifully applied S logo, and there’s no date to interfere with this incredible dial texture. The indices curve from almost the underside of the dial, a unique concept, though I do miss the floating indices that they did on the Opphav. And while the dial is a work of art, the hands are bold, as are the indices, and there’s still a minute/second track running around the edge of the dial. Beauty meets function.

Straum has been using the La Joux-Perret movements since the introduction of the Jan Mayen models around three years ago, so more of an early adopter for this movement, as it seems like many brands are now using these calibers. This is the G101 example, Soigné grade, and it’s a nice enough looking movement, and overall I do like the case back, but feel something is missing. I think the movement could have used some blue screws or a little more decoration to the rotor, something to make this pop a little more. While the Opphav had a basic Sellita SW200-1 powering it, I loved the case back on that model, and was kinda hoping it carried on to the Jan Mayen models.

I’m sure I am in the minority on this, and either way, it’s a great movement, and has a 68-hour power reserve, meaning you could not wear it for a day, leave it on your nightstand or in your collection box, and pick it back up 2 days later, and it will still be running.

In the photo of the case back above, you can see the strap of the Straum Jan Mayen Titanium Aurora Sky is removed, and yet, there’s still something attached in between the lugs. That would be a first link, as Straum calls it, and it’s their adapter for a unique quick-release strap system. The adapter can be removed, as there are drilled lugs on the sides of the case, though you wouldn’t be able to use an off-the-shelf strap due to the inner lug size. This type of case really needs the fitted flared strap, in my opinion.

On the front, it looks like the first link part would be the button, but actually, it’s on the back. Your thumbnail, or at least mine, should be all you need to press on that little thin rectangle, and the strap with prongs just releases. And it’s even easier to put the strap back on, as there’s no need to press anything; just insert the prongs back into the adapter, and it locks in. Unfortunately, optional colored straps (this is the green) will run you around $100, and that is a strap only, no adapter or buckle, and currently, there is no timeline for the proposed titanium bracelet.

There’s more to this FKM strap, though. Firstly, it’s a very attractive strap, and feels substantial while still being pliable, and it’s got quite an odd length,  100mm x around 190mm including the buckle. But if you have a smaller wrist and don’t want to have a lot of strap left over to slide into the keepers, Straum has engineered this strap to be cut. There are two spots on the strap that they label medium and small, where you can cut, then put the buckle back on through the provided holes, and you have made the strap a better fit for your wrist.

I did not cut the strap of the Straum Jan Mayen Titanium Aurora Sky, but as you can see above on my wrist, I probably could cut it to the medium spot, as I am quite far up on the strap, but I like a good amount of tail left over, and didn’t find it to be an issue. As I said, I found this watch to be very enjoyable on my wrist and extremely comfortable.

And even though this watch has a striking dial, and some would consider it to be more of an occasional piece, Straum makes their watches to be worn, and even in the dark, you can easily tell the time with a strong amount of Super-LumiNova, and it will last about a good four hours or so.

I think it’s safe to say that I am pretty enamored with this Straum Jan Mayen Titanium Aurora Sky. The evolution from the Opphav is evident, and while this is a $2500 watch, expensive for what most will consider a microbrand watch, there’s just so much good here. The dial is incredible, the case design, reminiscent of Genta designs, is beautifully machined and finished, and the whole strap mod quick-release system is great as well. I am disappointed, though, that there’s no titanium bracelet yet. It’s in development on the Straum website, and they do have one for the steel version, but there are many who will prefer a bracelet and will probably hold off until one is available. That mistake aside, this is a lot of watch for the money, but not everyone’s money, as it may be too niche for them with these dials.

Straum

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