Protek Aggressor

I am sure that almost everyone reading this is familiar with Luminox watches, and there are quite a few brands that also use tritium tubes, such as Ball, Traser, and Deep Blue. But this watch, the Protek Aggressor, is from the co-founder of Luminox, Barry Cohen. It’s not the only watch they make, of course, but it is their largest watch to date at 45mm, and it has an aggressive case design, with a fun geometric pattern dial and a very lightweight carbon composite case. It’s also 300m water-resistant and uses a sapphire crystal, as well as a Miyota 2035 quartz movement, and pricing starts at $575.

Specifications

45mm Carbon Composite Case

14.5mm Thick

22mm Lug Width

52mm Lug Width

60 Click Unidirectional Bezel

Sapphire Crystal

300m Water Resistant

T-100 Tritium Tubes

Miyota 2035 Quartz

Rubber Strap

Price $575 

https://protekwatch.com/products/model-pt4003-aggressor?pr_prod_strat=pinned&pr_rec_id=45976b515&pr_rec_pid=8353198440630&pr_ref_pid=8353199947958&pr_seq=uniform

So, story time here: I love G-Shock watches. You may be thinking, what does that have to do with this Protek Aggressor? Well, G-Shocks, for the most part, are larger watches, and still to this day make 43mm to 52mm watches, both digital and ani-digi. I have been wearing them for probably 30 years now, and I just have always loved them. They are tough and fun watches that you can throw almost anything at.

This Protek is similar in a lot of ways, as it is a large watch, but it has the carbon composite case, so it’s just as lightweight as a large G-Shock- okay, maybe not exactly as lightweight, as this does feel a little more solid than most of my G’s, but it’s only 82 grams, which really is nothing for a watch this size.

So why did Barry Cohen leave Luminox and eventually start Protek? Well, he did not do it immediately, as under the Time Concepts umbrella he had started, there are brands such as Szanto and CT Scudiera, brands that both have been reviewed on this site over the years. But Barry loved tactical watches and tritium tubes, as that’s the reason he started Luminox to begin with.  As far as why he left? Well, he just wasn’t happy with the direction of the company, and Protek allows him to build very similar watches, but now in designs he wants to do, and it does not need to be run by a board first.

And as I said, this Protek Aggressor is the largest model currently from the brand, with other models being in the 40 and 42mm range. This case is also used in another model as well, the USMC Carbon dive, where essentially it’s the same watch but the dials are different, with camo dials and a special embossed USMC case back. This case back is stainless steel with a hexagram, and the Protek logo in the middle.

This case is pretty cool as well, with a unique angled design, large crown guards and a 9 o’clock bumper, and an aggressive-looking bezel with rider tabs. While not even remotely a copy, the case does somewhat remind me of a few Linde Werdelin models, and though Protek was not the first to use a carbon composite or forged carbon case, I do like how they implemented it here.

The crown is massive, and the actual crown is stainless steel, with a DLC top, but for extra grip, there is a blue polymer ring that matches the color of the dial. Crown action is very smooth and screws down precisely, at least on this example.

The bezel is interesting. It’s only 60 clicks, but it is unidirectional and relatively easy to turn, especially if you grab hold of those rider tabs, and the pip does have a tritium tube as well. The numbers are part of the mold, though, and I wish they could have figured out a way to color and seal them, as they are completely lost in the dark.

The dial of the Protek Aggressor is quirky, with a stamped trapezoid design all over, and I may have missed why they went this route or the reasoning beyond it, instead of just a basic matte dial as an example, but I don’t hate it, and I guess it adds a bit of whimsy to this tactical watch. And so does the dial color, which I have been calling cyan blue. It is a bright color and definitely not subtle, and if you get the optional matching color strap, it’s even less subtle. And if blue is not your color, they do make a regular old black dial, as well as a bright yellow and orange.

Beyond the dial stamping, the rest of the dial is fairly simple. The logo and model name, along with the water resistance, are simply painted on with a stencil in black paint, and around the chapter ring is painted in black as well. I guess they figured black hands would be hard to see on a black dial, and only wanted to make one set of hands, so all 4 dial colors have these frosted silver hour, minute, and second hands, and there’s no issue telling time at all, but I do wonder how it would look with black hands.

And we can’t forget about the Tritium tubes. Unlike Luminox, which still only uses T25 tubes (which Protek does use on many models as well), this big boy gets the upgrade to T100 tritium tubes. And while not that uncommon these days, it is nice to see a sapphire crystal on a $575 watch, as even going back 5-10 years ago, this was not always the case, especially with brands like Seiko, Citizen, Luminox, and others.

In the dark, well, it’s always glowing, as that is the benefit of Tritium tubes. With T100 tubes, it’s technically not brighter, as it is still more of a dimmer glow than Super-LumiNova, but you get more lume with the bigger tubes if that makes sense. This model has tri-color lume as well, so you get orange, blue, and green. So in complete darkness, you will always have lume, and it does not need a light source to charge it.

But I know what some of you are thinking. “Don, this watch is 45mm, how can you possibly wear it? How can anyone wear it?” Well, watches this size were the norm 15-20 years ago, and to be honest, I used to wear watches much larger than this, and some of my G-Shock watches are bigger than this. Truth be told, I really do not gravitate towards a standard watch of this size, even in titanium, and while this watch is large, I find it very comfortable with it being so lightweight. It is probably at the limit of what I would wear for an analog watch these days, though, with a 52mm lug-to-lug as well.

The strap on the Protek Aggressor is 22mm and tapers to 20, and is genuine rubber as they list it, with no vanilla scent, and is pliable and does wrap around the wrist, but not as soft and pliable as the newer FKM straps. That said, it is probably more heavy-duty than most FKM straps, and they top it off with a black DLC buckle that is both brushed and polished, which is a nice look. One thing that bothers me, though, is the length, as my wrist is 7 1/2 inches (19.05cm) and there are 4 sizing holes left, and with a watch this large, I figured the strap would be longer.

It would also be nice if they gave a choice of straps when ordering, as it is now, the black rubber is the default, and if you want the color-matched strap for any of the Aggressor models, you will have to shell out another $50. You will have two straps though, so maybe a good option if you dont wnat ot always be so flashy.

So who is this watch for? Well, if you are reading this and like this watch, I imagine it’s for you. Or you know, possibly anyone that likes a large and lightweight watch, but wants something different than a G-Shock, or a design different than most Luminox, or, of course, just a lover of watches with tritium tubes.

I have enjoyed wearing it, though; it is somewhat fun to put on a large analog watch again, and with this being so lightweight, I barely notice it is there. At night, the watch is constantly glowing and easy to read, though I do sometimes miss the dim lighting lume from Super-LumiNova; again, I never have to worry about it not being worn for a few days or not being around a light source all day, and the carbon composite case looks pretty good on this one and not as plasticky as some I have come across. I do think it would be great to see this with an automatic movement though, and if it did come with one, more watch enthusiasts may be interested.

Protek

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echo/neutra Averau Ceramic

The echo/neutra Averau Ceramic is a unique and modern take on a field watch. This new Averau (highest mountain of the Nuvolau Group in the Dolomites) is a 42mm field watch with a matte black ceramic case, but also has a titanium frame to add some strength and rigidity to the ceramic. Ceramic cases are not new, but for a long time were only available on much more expensive and mainstream watches, and now here is a field watch that has a similar look to an IWC Top Gun Pilot, but for a much more affordable price. Inside is a Sellita SW200-1; there are a few strap choices, and its water resistant to 100m. This is quite the package, especially for the price of $1, 180.

Specifications

42MM Ceramic Case

Titanium Case Back and Frame

10.5mm Thick

20mm Lug Width

51.5mm Lug to Lug

82 Grams on Rubber Strap

Screw Down Titanium Crown

100m Water Resistant

Elabore SW200-1 Movement

Domed Sapphire Crystal

Rubber Strap -110mm/75mm

Textile Strap 135mm/70mm

Price $1,180

https://echoneutra.com/products/averau-42-ceramic-3h

Now it does seem I was a bit wrong when I did the above video, as I said this may be the least expensive ceramic watch on the market, or the least expensive automatic ceramic watch, and not a fashion watch. After I published the video, I found a brand named Earthen Co., which makes a 38mm model, the Summit. So technically I guess this is the second least expensive automatic ceramic watch, at least that I could find. I do still feel these two watches are not exactly on the same level, considering the case construction and materials on this echo/neutra Averau Ceramic, but of course everything is subjective.

Now what makes this echo/neutra so unique? Well, most ceramic watches, whether it be a Bell & Ross, an IWC, or others, the case is ceramic, but the case back would be titanium or steel (sometimes an exhibition case back), and the crown is going to be steel or titanium as well, as ceramic is still too brittle to be used for those parts of the watch. Echo/neutra took this one step further and used a titanium frame, the Ti-Frame as they call it, to add strength to the ceramic case. The frame sits inside the ceramic case, surrounding the inner walls, thus holding the movement as well, and then extends down to the lug holes, where, as Echo states on their site, is one of the weakest areas on a ceramic watch.

Now echo/neutra is not the first brand to do this; well, they are not the first to do titanium under ceramic, as brands such as Bell & Ross (not contradicting; it depends on the model) and IWC use a process of ceramizing a titanium core on some of their models, dubbed Ceratanium, while other models use just a ceramic case. But what I do not believe I have seen before is where the frame extends to and inside the lugs, so I think echo/neutra may be the first? Zodiac did do a ceramic watch as well, over a stainless steel frame, with a similar but not exact setup. You can see that review HERE. 

And why do they have to do this at all? Well, ceramic in this application has come a long way in the last 20-30 years and is now usable for more than just a fashion watch that needs to be babied. Now it can be used for everyday watches such as these. Yet, while the titanium will add strength, remember, it is still more brittle than steel or titanium, and even though it is very scratch-resistant, things can still break and scratch.

The ceramic is all matte black on this echo/neutra Averau Ceramic, but as I said, that crown is titanium, and not only is it knurled for easy gripping, but it is also a screw-down crown. Screw-down crowns are nothing new, of course; we all know this, but I have seen a lot of watches recently where they have 100m of water resistance, but the crown does not screw down, even if it is marketed as a sports watch or everyday watch. So now, I appreciate it even more when I see a proper screw-down crown such as this.

The dial is matte black to match the sleek case, and some would call this a busy dial; some may think it’s relatively uncluttered. I think the branding size and font will probably be the most off-putting for some enthusiasts, and is what makes it feel cluttered. If you were to size the branding down, the dial, to me at least, is pretty simple, and the Averau mountain logo can only be seen in certain lighting as it’s all black. The only pop of color is the red tip of the second hand, and while we have applied markers, it’s only the cardinal points; the rest have printed numbers and hash marks, which are not lumed.

The case is pretty thin at 10.5mm; actually, that’s very thin for a watch such as this, and the case is similar in design to many others you have seen before, and other echo/neutra models, with slightly curved lugs and a nice slope to the case. At 42mm and, more importantly, a lug-to-lug of 51.5mm, I know many are concerned about how this watch wears on this wrist.

I won’t get into a debate on sizing here (already kind of did that in the video review), but I will simply say, for me, I love that they did a 42mm. This type of watch or style of watch lends itself to a larger case, and the reality is, I can pull it off with a 7 1/2 inch (19.05cm) wrist. I understand not everyone can, and maybve one day echo/neutra will make a smaller size of this model, but they do also produce other smaller models currently, including an Averau in steel at 39mm. For my wrist size, I would say this Averau Ceramic 3H actually feels smaller than the stated specs.

There are three straps that Echo/Neutra offers, and they sent along two of them to me: a webbed or stitched rubber and a textile (nylon strap. I like both, and both have the same titanium buckles and keepers (though they should be black DLC-coated), and looks-wise I do like this thick rubber strap more, but it is pretty short compared to the textile strap. Both straps only add a few grams to the weight, so this is still a very lightweight watch on the wrist. Both straps do have some strap gap at the lugs though- not unsightly, but noticeable.

I do have to mention the movement. It’s a Sellita SW1200-1, Elabore grade, so no issues there, and I had no issues with time or accuracy either, as it stayed around +/-15 seconds a day, but the rotor is on the loud side. You know how you can hear that rotor spin around more with a Miyota 9000 series movement? Well, this is comparable, if not a touch louder, and it’s just due to the titanium and ceramic case construction, as it just does not deaden the noise as much as other case materials.

I have to say, I was very enamored when I first saw this watch on their website, and I was still impressed when it landed for review. The echo/neutra Averau Ceramic has a similar look and vibe to that Top Gun pilot, but I think any watch enthusiast can see they are not trying to copy it one for one, and I love the use of the Tiframe, even if you can’t really see it when it’s being worn, except for that little glimpse inside the lugs.

The real story here, though, is the price. When you look around for something comparable, the Zodiac I linked above would have been the closest, but they are all but out of business at this point, and buying one on a closeout may be a gamble. I think the Bell & Ross watches would probably be closest in price, but the cheapest models are around $3,300. So at $1,180, you get a ceramic and titanium watch that is Swiss-made, but designed in Italy, and that price includes shipping and duties. I think that may be this watch’s biggest selling point. And if you want a lighter dial color, they now have sand color dials, and if you want to shell out some more cash for an extra complication, well, they have an automatic chronograph model as well.

echo/neutra

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Nivada Grenchen F77 MK2 41mm

The Nivada Grenchen F77 MK2 41MM is an interesting, or maybe more specifically intriguing watch, but not for the reasons you may be thinking. Yes, unlike the original re-issue I reviewed 3 years ago, which was 37mm, this new one is 41mm, and there is a 38mm model as well. And the case shape has changed as well, with curved lugs and drilled lug holes. But size is a big deal these days, maybe more so than ever. And I am not sure why. Many watch enthusiasts scream from their rooftops (or, in reality, their couches while on their phones) how a watch a brand just released is too big, and that brands need to wake up!! Well, maybe Nivada Grenchen is asleep, or maybe, just maybe, they have figured out that those who are the loudest are not speaking for everyone.

Specifications

41MM Stainless Steel Case

50mm Lug to Lug

24mm Lug Width

Bracelet Tapers to 18mm

12.5mm Thick

145 Grams

Screw-Down Crown

Domed Sapphire Crystal

100m Water Resistant

Soprod P024 Automatic Movement

Integrated Bracelet

Price $1,460

https://nivadagrenchenofficial.com/collections/f77-mk2/products/f77-black-41mm

Now let me state, I do not care what size watch you wear, nor do I think you should care what size watch I wear either. I think it is fantastic that brands are doing so many sizes these days, and yes, there are a lot of smaller watches on the market now, and for those that like those sizes, it’s wonderful.

But what I do see happening now is when a brand does release a 40mm or larger watch, those who like smaller watches love to complain and say it’s too big; you need to pay attention to who’s buying; your brand will die. (These are actual comments I have seen). While it gives me a chuckle, I am not sure why we waste so much time as watch enthusiasts that a watch is not to their size. I mean, find another brand. There is sure to be a brand making your preferred size these days. Find that one, and buy it.

Nivada decided to revamp their F77 collection last year, and when they did, the revived brand debuted two new sizes, 38 and 41mm. What is interesting, the original 1977 integrated bracelet model this watch is modeled after was actually 38mm, not 37mm like the original re-issue. So now, with the Nivada Grenchen F77 MK2, this is corrected. So you can buy it in its original size, and if you are someone who does prefer a bigger watch (the horror!), you can now get it in 41mm.

The Nivada Grenchen F77 MK2 41mm (and the 38mm) is an integrated sports watch design, with a bezel very similar to the APRO, and yes, there was some copying going on back in the 70s, not that uncommon for that time. Like the original reissue, the standard or default dials are carbon-look weave, and come in black as shown here, or blue. They are available with either date or no-date dials, and for the most part, this dial is pretty much exactly the same as the 37mm, with a clean and easy-to-read dial, thin applied indices, an applied Nivada logo shiield, and now has vintage lume paint used; it’s a yellow paint, and while I think it looks ok, I would have preferred white or even slightly green, such as a C1 OR C3 color.

There are quite a few other similarities with the 37mm as well, and thus, the Nivada Grenchen F77 MK2 41mm, for the most part, is just a bigger example of the 37mm. The dial, as I show above, is the same brushed bezel with flat head screws, and it retains the 100m water resistance and screw-down crown, which is always nice to see.

So are there any other changes? There sure are. The case itself, beyond just being wider and longer, also has a different shape. It evokes the lines of the original and has the same polish and brushed areas as before, but the original and the original reissue had a much straighter, blocky case design, and now it has been modernized, if you will, with prominent curved lugs, as well as drilled lugs for easy bracelet removal. Not only do the curved lugs add more dimension to the case, but it allows the 50mm lug-to-lug length to fit and look better on your wrist than the straight lugs would have.

Pretty much everything else has stayed the same. The case back has no changes as far as I can see; a nice stamped solid case back, and underneath that case back beats the Soprod P024 movement, the same as the original reissue. I have never really encountered an issue with these movements, but I will say, a 38-hour power reserve is pretty low these days.

Of coruse the Nivada Grenchen F77 MK2 41mm still has an integrated bracelet; I mean, thats one of the things this watch is all about, and that same end link desgin is still present, and I am glad it is, as whether you call it a cut-out design, a U link, or whatever else you can think of, it does make this F77 stand out.

The bracelet width at the lugs is 24 but tapers to 18mm, and the links are thin but solid, use one-piece screws, and the clasp is dual-finished and very beautiful, but it is still a pin-hole clasp, and not a modern tool-less adjustable clasp, and that is a disappointment for me.

And well, the biggest change for me at least is how it wears on my 7 1/2 inch (19.05cm) wrist. I made no bones about it; at 37mm, I felt the original reissue was too small for me. Now at 41mm, it looks fantastic, and despite being much larger than the original, it does not feel massive to me at all; it is still a very thin watch, and it really hugs the wrist nicely. It is not a very heavy watch either, and I find it to be extremely comfortable on my wrist.

As we all know, some folks are not happy, no matter what. I, of course, think it’s fantastic that they produced the Nivada Grenchen F77 MK2 41mm, and if you find 41mm to be much too large, well, there’s a 38mm. And looking at their site as I write this article, there are a few of the 37mm left as well. Nivada has really expanded the range of dial colors as well, especially on the 38mm models, with many stone dials, and both the 38 and 41mm have meteorite dial options as well.

There’s also a very affordable 38mm Mecaquartz, and you can get a gold-tone 38mm. Oh, those 38mm models also have rubber and canvas strap options too (none for the 41mm yet), so they have never had more options. The design may not be for everyone, but I do think they have the bases covered on sizes. Now they just need to upgrade those clasps.

https://nivadagrenchenofficial.com

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Ollech & Wajs Early Bird

What is a tool watch? When you ask that to a watch enthusiast, you are bound to get many different answers, but I definitely think you could consider this Ollech & Wajs Early Bird a tool watch; a dial that displays the entire 24-hour day, an hour hand that only goes around the dial once in 24 hours, with a modified and bespoke Soprod C-125 GMT movement. This watch is the answer to many OW enthusiasts who wanted the 1965 original model to be modernized and brought back. This EB-24 uses one of the modern 39.5mm OW cases, one that has been used for quite a few other models, has a bidirectional dual-anodized friction bezel, a custom 24-hour dial, and domed sapphire. Pricing starts at $2,400 with a leather strap, but you can upgrade to a few different strap or bracelet options at an extra cost.

Specifications

24 Hour Dial

39.5mm Stainless Case

12.5mm Thick

48mm Lug to Lug

20mm Lug Width

Weight-155 Grams

Screw Down Crown

300m Water Resistant

Double Domed Sapphire

Bespoke Soprod C-125 Movement

M- Link Bracelet (As shown)

Starts at $2400 USD

Price- $2,780 as reviewed 

https://ow-watch.com/collections/pilot/products/ow-early-bird-numered2

The Intelsat I, or ‘Early Bird’ as it is better known, was the world’s first geosynchronous communications satellite, and handled all commercial telecommunications transmissions between Europe and North America between 1965 and 1969. Albert Wajs wanted to pay tribute to this landmark moment of modern engineering by creating a watch in its honour. The 24-hour ‘military-time’ dial reflects the time taken for the satellite to complete one orbit of the Earth. The blue-and-red metallic bezel echoed the colours of the satellite itself. t was created specifically for military personnel, particularly pilots and radio operators, for whom a 24-hour ‘military-time’ dial would be invaluable.

The above paragraph was taken in parts from the Ollech & Wajs Early Bird page, and I figured it was easier to copy what they wrote instead of paraphrasing. I have also read it was quite popular with soldiers in the Vietnam War, and apparently only 500 were ever made.

ORIGINAL 1965 OW EARLY BIRD

But let’s turn our attention to the modern Ollech & Wajs Early Bird that we have here. This interpretation uses the modern 39.5mm stainless steel case used on plenty of other models by OW. Now this is not to say Ollech does not have other cases, but I would say this one is used more than others. It’s a slightly blocky case, has a shape like a skin diver, and it is all brushed everywhere you look. It’s not a super fine brushing either, but this is the way OW does it on all their watches. This is a tool watch after all. It has a screw-down crown, 300m of water resistance, and a big ol’ double domed sapphire.

Now I have seen this watch was highly requested by O&W fans; how many fans I do not know, but it was obviously enough to get Ollech & Wajs to make it. And while I have not talked about the dial or movement yet, I have to say, looking at the original and looking at this modern version, I can see the similarities, but I do wish we got an all-new case. While we do have the distinct dual colored bezel and a 24-hour dial, if you have this case with any of the other Ollech models, are the dial and bezel enough to make it truly different in looks?

But let’s talk 24-hour dials. I talk about and show how to use this dial in the video review above, but if you don’t want to watch the video and are not familiar, a 24-hour dial is just that. All 24 hours are shown in military time on the dial, and that hour hand will circle the dial once in 24 hours. 24 at the top is midnight; what would be your 3 o’clock position on a 12-hour watch is 6 am, and 12 at the bottom is noon, and what would be 9 o’clock on a standard dial is 6 pm, and I think you can figure out the rest. So, the right side of the dial will be your morning hours and the left side, afternoon and evening.

The bezel, blue and red(ish) anodized aluminum, and the outer edge of the bezel is all anodized in that blue, a contrast to the original that was all red, is a GMT bezel, of course, so not only do you have a 24-hour dial, but you can use this watch to set a second time zone as well. The bezel is bi-directional, and it is a friction bezel, so it moves without any clicks and does not really lock into place, though I never found it easy to accidentally move it from where I set it.

The dial of the Ollech & Wajs Early Bird is pretty straightforward: a 24-hour dial, the indices and all text are printed on the dial here, and I find the dial easy enough to read; the indices and numbers are as big as they can be without making the dial feel crowded. The hour and minute hand quite large, especially for the size of this watch, and all brushed steel to match the case. Unfortunately though, because of the thin printed indices, the lume is not great.

Of course, we need to talk movement. The base movement of the Ollech & Wajs Early Bird is the Soprod C-125 GMT movement, and this is modified to work with a 24-hour dial. I am not exactly sure what Soprod added or removed from the movement to allow for the 24-hour dial complication. I mean, the GMT hand is obviously reviewed, but I assume Soprod had to adjust the hour hand to click at all 24 spots on the dial, and possibly make a few other adjustments as well. This is a no-date movement, so that disc is removed, and Ollech states this has a 42-hour power reserve, an accuracy of +7/-7 seconds a day, custom screws, and a bespoke 1956 Ollech & Wajs rotor. As you can see below, though, we see none of that because OW opted for the fairly basic case back we have seen before.

Because this case is used for a few different models, I knew what to expect when I put this watch on my 7 1/2 inch (19.05cm) wrist. The 39.5mm case feels slightly larger than its stated specs, and that is mostly due to the 48mm lug-to-lug, which is somewhat long for a watch under 40mm. That crown is large but does not dig into the back of my hand or wrist, and then there is this M-link bracelet…

If you do not select any other strap or bracelet, the Ollech & Wajs Early Bird will come on a black leather strap. There are a few other strap or bracelet choices, but for an extra $356 USD, you can get this multi-link bracelet with a quick adjustment clasp. Overall, I am not a fan of this bracelet. Its all brushed, it does use screws and while the clasp is the older style of tooless quick adjust clasps, it is functional, I do not find it to be ver well finished for its price tag, and while taking it off is easy becuse o the drilled lugs, you will spend quite a few more minutes trying to put it back on due to the lug ends, and just how these lugs fit up to the case. If it were me, I would forgo any bracelet options, and get it on the RAF strap or the leather strap.

I have to tell you, this was a hard one. I have a fondness for Ollech & Wajs watches, and while I do not consider all of the models to be home runs like Ollech & Wajs C-1000 A was, which in my opinion is still one of the best modern OW watches, there’s something about this watch that is just not connecting with me. Yes, the 24-hour dial is niche; hell, the OW website mentions that specifically. There are not many 24-hour watches out there like this. So this is a niche product, and while it was probably a great watch for soldiers and pilots back in the 60s, I am not sure how much something like this would be used today.

I also feel this is quite an expensive watch at almost $2,800 on this bracelet. I understand the movement is modified, but beyond the dial and colored bezel, this is not a new case for Ollech; the friction bezel is used on other watches, this one is just anodized blue and red, and the bracelet is used for other models as well. I like the nod to history, and the Ollech & Wajs Early Bird is eye-catching with that bezel, but I think you would have to really love 24-hour dials, or just want something eccentric in your collection, to grab one of these.

Ollech & Wajs

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H.G.P. Diver 300m Automatic Commando

H.G.P., a brand that was resurrected in 2023, is known for the Monnin 844 case. This one here, though, is somthing different. The French brand’s latest model is the H.G.P. Diver 300m Automatic Commando, a watch with a historical reference, and is using the Monnin 980 case. And if you scrolled through the pics already, you may be thinking it looks a lot like a Squale case, and you would be correct, but there are quite a few differences, especially on this modern version. The case is 41.5mm, a mix of brushed and polished stainless steel, and has the iconic “Scuba Dude” on the dial. At this time, there’s only one dial color, black, which matches the vintage model, and no bracelet; rather, a Tropic rubber or nylon strap, and the current price is $616, though that price seems to fluctuate a few dollars every few days.

Specifications

41.5mm Stainless Steel Case

48.5mm Lug to Lug

11.9mm Thick

20mm Lugs

95 Grams

Screw Down Crown and 

Case Back

300m Water Resistant

Sapphire Crystal

120 Click Bi-directional bezel

Aluminum Bezel Insert

Miyota 9039 Auto Movement

C3 Super-LumiNova 

Price $616

https://www.hgp-watches.com/collections/diver-300m-automatic-commando/products/diver-300m-automatic-commando-diving-watch

In the video review above, I give a brief history with some pics of the original H.G.P. Diver 300m Automatic Commando, though that is the name now, as the originals were mostly quartz as far as I have seen. That is at least the H.G.P. versions, as this case was designed by Monnin, produced by MRP SA, and used by many other brands such as Sinn, Dodane, Airin, and quite a few others. Basically, this case and dial got around. Now here we are, over 40 years later, almost 50 years actually, with its rebirth. The original case did look much more like the Squale 50 Atmos, with large curved lugs and case profile, but this modern version has its own identity.

As you can see above and below, the case is very distinct, with much less curve to the lugs than a Squale 1521 case, though it does have the extended block on the case, the bumper if you will, that leads into the crown, as this is what creates the integrated crown guards, keeping the crown safe from knocks and bumps. And unlike the Squale, this crown is not as large and is a little more recessed. The crown action is somewhat unique, and maybe that’s the wrong word for it, but I did find I was not overly fond of the crown action, as it lacked a noticeable click when unscrewing, and it also had no real feedback when pushing it back down into the case. This feels intentional, and maybe it’s just a smoother action of a crown that I am not used to.

The case of the H.G.P. Diver 300m Automatic Commando (man, that’s a long name, isn’t it?) only comes in one case finish, brushed and polished. I say that because these days, the Squale can be had in all polished, all blasted, or even all brushed now. And while choices are great, I do love what H.G.P. did here; the case is mostly brushed, with high polished accents, like on the lugs, where you can see that the polished chamfer flares out and accentuates the lug design. The crown is polished, and the area around the bezel insert is polished, as well as the area in between the lugs.

And then we have that dial, that oh-so-awesome dial. Yes, this dial is busy, exactly as the original was, with a lot of text, those giant hour indices, the chapter ring numbers, the 24-hour numbers, and of course, the Scuba Dude. I admit, and many have heard me over the years, I prefer a much cleaner dial generally, but there’s something about this dial. Maybe it’s because it’s a vintage reference, maybe it’s because it reminds me of dive watches I owned back in the 80s and 90s, or because with a matte black (though slightly textured) dial and the white hands, and those massive indices, this is easy to read at a glance, especially coupled with a rare flat sapphire crystal on a dive watch.

The bezel is bi-directional, somewhat odd for a modern dive watch, but it is 120 clicks and has a nice tactile feel about it, and maybe a little more odd, it has a countdown scale instead of elapsed time. Now this is not uncommon; there are many different ways to use a bezel, but I don’t remember offhand the last time I saw both combined. It is a great-looking bezel though, and I do like the matte anodized aluminum insert, as it has that vintage vibe to it, though I am sure some would want a ceramic or sapphire bezel; for this style of watch, I feel aluminum works well.

Around the back, it’s pretty simple: an almost mirror-polished back and lugs, with a center circle that is brushed. I would prefer it to all be brushed, but at least it’s on the back and not the front. The center area shows the serial numbers, and if you look at that right lug, you’ll see the George Monnin stamp, a nice little touch. Inside is the Miyota 9039; that’s the no-date version of the 9015, and I have no complaints with this movement- never have, and unlike many with this movement, I do not hear that rotor loudly spinning around.

This is usually the part of the review I will show and discuss it on the wrist, but I think I will stop making you wait for the lume shots, because I know some are just chomping at the bit for them. As one would hope and expect, the H.G.P. Diver 300m Automatic Commando looks absolutely amazing in the dark. The lume is 7 layers of Super-LumiNova, and it shows. Expect an all-night lume here; no issues seeing the time if you have to do a bathroom break or check on the little one.

Now I am sure I will catch some flak for this, but if you are reading this and always hope that the watch being reviewed is over 40mm, well, jump up and rejoice, as this one is 41.5mm. And even better, it wears like a 42mm! I am sure some guys who love 38mm watches are shaking their fists and maybe even fingers at me right now, and that’s ok, but us guys who still prefer a watch over 40mm need some love now and then as well. I think it’s great all the choices these days, and that guys who prefer a smaller watch, or just have a smaller wrist, have an abundance of watches these days, but for me, just look how great this one looks on my 7 1/2 inch (19.05cm) wrist.

No bracelet options, at least not yet, and that’s somewhat of a bummer as I was hoping for a nice beads of rice bracelet for this one. The choices are the rally Tropic rubber as shown in this review, or a simple nylon strap, for a few dollars less. The Tropic is fine, but I would have loved something with fitted lugs, and while it does fit my wrist, if you have a wrist much bigger than mine, you’ll need to replace the strap. Fortunately, it is a widely available 20mm.

I am pretty much in love with the H.G.P. Diver 300m Automatic Commando, and no, I don’t feel ashamed as a reviewer to state that. This checks a lot of boxes for me personally, with the case design, it being 41.5mm, though still pretty thin at just a little under 12mm, the crazy and funky dial, and of course that lume. It’s an attractive watch; it’s affordable (half the price of a Squale 1521), and though the cases are made in China, they are assembled in France, and to be frank, with this case design and finishing, it could have been made anywhere, and I wouldn’t balk at it, and quite frankly, most cases are made in China these days.

I do have to get used to the more hydraulic feeling and silent crown action, and I do wish there were different straps or a bracelet option, but as is, this is still a pretty good value all things considered, and I hope we will see more variation with this case design from H.G.P. in the future.

H.G.P.

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