Here we are again with a peek behind the curtain, the latest from our widening wardrobe and our growing vocabulary, this time featuring our design “solivagant” meaning “one who wanders alone”.

Combining the roots and routes of Latin in English, mashing together solo or solitary and vagabond or vagrant, solivagant is at once wistful and affirming….

Without the moments of wandering alone Idioma would never have travelled as far as this, so that led us to try and express the idea: a squiggle to show the way, through a landscape, and one viewer to take it all in.

We need this time, this chance, the silence and the sanctuary. We need to explore, wander alone, and think more. Only in this way can we build resilience, empathy and respect for everything around us. 

Well-trodden paths or into the wilderness, it doesn’t matter. You might not arrive at a destination, and this t-shirt won’t necessarily get you there either, but that’s all part of the fun.

Solivagant: An emblem for the journey, where the highs and lows are uniquely yours.

Available as a Fine Art Print, Unisex T-shirt and Cropped T-shirt. 

See all of Idioma's Summer '20 releases here.

Now is the time. Plant a seed. Cultivate your mind, your garden and your soul. This design takes its inspiration from the Sanskrit word "Bhavana" meaning to Cultivate. 

We're following closely U.K Government advice to ensure the health and protection of our workforce in these difficult times. We're still open for business as usual, and when we're not shipping your orders we'll be planting seeds for the summer, and researching and designing for the future.   

Now is the time to stay strong, safe and positive. 

Seguro - Fuerte - Positivo

With love from all the Idioma Team.

Un abrazo x

“Dance is the hidden language of the soul” 
― Martha Graham

For the final design deep dive of this season, we're looking at another design relating to movement, but this time with a little more rhythm...

At Idioma HQ we often talk about the concept of freedom. Freedom in language, freedom in travel and freedom in creation. But in the moment freedom is epitomised by moving to music. Letting inhibitions go on the dancefloor, kitchen or living room (with or without the help a couple of beers) is a freeing part of the human experience. It's a natural human instinct to move to a beat or rhythm, something innate in our DNA, but sometimes a self consciousness can get in the way. However, when feet start tapping and shapes are made the magic really happens. 

Mbuki Mvuki is an idiom from the Bantu people of Africa, literally meaning "to shake off your clothes to dance more freely". It's that moment that you've let go and committed to the movement. Clothes slow you down, they make you too hot, so the only thing for it is to take some off. How many that come off, we'll leave to you...

It is thought that "Boogie Woogie" originates from Mbuki Mvuki, changing into the Americanism it is today. If things had turned out differently maybe Boogie Nights would have a very different name.

“We should consider every day lost on which we have not danced at least once.” 
― Friedrich Nietzsche 

Seth, Designer for Idioma, was inspired by a book on African pattern when he stumbled upon the word Mbuki Mvuki. The way Bantu artists illustrate the movement of simple figures inspired the motion within the design. 

When illustrating, the essence of the word was not coming through so the design moved mediums:

"I was drawing again and again the same shapes and getting a little frustrated with the permanent line of my pen, it just wasn’t going in the right direction. I wanted to free things up a little and so I started making shapes, cutting them out of paper. A cutout was made for each shape, they were put together and the design came into focus."

A mix of colour and motion was finalised as the final design and is what you see today. Hopefully we can all bring a little Mbuki Mvuki into our lives on a more regular basis!

Mbuki Mvuki is available as a unisex t-shirt, a cropped t-shirt & a unisex sweatshirt.

See all of Idioma's Summer '18 releases here.

Eve wears the Peace be the Journey Cropped T-shirt

One of Idioma's first products was a t-shirt with the simple message, "Peace be the Journey". As our journey progresses, so do the designs that we release each year. This latest design dive looks at the latest concept to come out of Idioma HQ.

Sometimes inspiration can come from unexpected places. This design was initially inspired by the word Caravanserai, a place of refuge for caravans, often along the Silk Road. Images of camels riding across the desert shortly followed, a romantic vision of the ultimate journey. 

PBTJ Sweat & Cropped T-Shirt 

This design also has a hidden message which can only be seen once the journey has begun. The back of each product shows the message "Peace be the Journey" rippled across the left side. This is a rare design with an English phrase from Idioma - we wanted to keep the message simple with a hint to something deeper.

Leaving good wishes whenever you walk away...

In our modern world we often have a million and one things to do at any given time. We're always pushing towards the next goal, place or moment in the future. We can think of life as a constant journey, happening immediately in every moment.

After all, we're always heading towards somewhere new, even if it feels like we're not. So go in peace and enjoy the ride...

David wears PBTJ unisex t-shirt 

Peace be the Journey is available as a embroidered unisex sweatshirt, or printed unisex t-shirt and cropped t-shirt. 

See all of Idioma's Summer '18 releases here.

Bonus Fact

The tobogganing team in the film Cool Runnings famously stated that Cool Runnings, while a catchy team name, is also a Jamaican patois meaning "Peace be the Journey". We haven't been able to verify this phrase with any Jamaican friends just yet, but we love the message.  

― Aldous Huxley, The Art of Seeing

Introducing... Haraka Baraka 

For our second design deep dive this summer, we wanted to highlight a new design with a simple but important message. The Arabic idiom, "الحركة بركة (Haraka Baraka)" literally translates to "Movement is a blessing" in English. It is often used to express the health benefits of exercise, or the blessings that come with any activity. In a world often fragmented by borders, at Idioma we also like to see the freedom of movement as something broader and wider reaching.

Some initial sketches for the design

Haraka Baraka also pops up in a Swahili proverb, "Haraka haraka haina Baraka", translating to "Hurry hurry has no blessings". Here the proverb is all about an approach to life, with a calm, steady demeanour encouraged. The link from Africa to the Middle East shows that language is a deep root between countries and continents.

Idioma's take on this focusses on the energy at the starting block of a race. The explosive movement is captured in the design, with the English phonetic and Arabic versions of the phrase surrounding the composition.

Definition

الحركة بركة / Haraka Baraka

(Arabic)

1. Movement is a Blessing

Movement is growth.

Movement is adventure.

Movement is opportunity.

Movement is a blessing which we want to celebrate with this design. Whether its from place to place or from day to day, we hope this t-shirt keeps you moving.

Haraka Baraka is available as a full print unisex T-shirt here. See all of Idioma's Summer '18 releases here.

Early morning sunrise in Kabak, Turkey

 

Instructions for use

1. Find a quiet spot at dawn.

2. Sit with the moment.

3. Breathe. 

Introducing... Rìchū 日出

Over the next 5 weeks we'll be taking a deeper look into the latest designs we're releasing this summer, starting with one of our favourites: Rìchū 日出.

With this design, we wanted to capture the beauty of the sunrise from Mount Tai in Shandong province. We would love for you to take this sweatshirt somewhere quiet at the break of dawn and breathe in the shapes, the colours, the light. 

Using just two colours, this is one of the simplest of our latest collection. An inverted sun sits above the lines of an unknown ocean. Rìchū translates to "sunrise" in both Cantonese and Mandarin Chinese, relating both languages with one of simplest and beautiful moments of the human experience.
 
 

Seth, Designer & Director of Idioma, says the design is inspired by a recent reflection he had in Kabak, Turkey: 

"After a rude awakening from some particularly feisty mosquitos, the sunrise across the Turkish Mediterranean brought a clarity to the early morning. I began wondering who else would be awake to see this sun, and who had seen it before us. My mind went to the Eastern side of China where Rìchū is a daily occurrence. Now this design represents the falling light on Shandong in the early morning."

Available as a full print t-shirt, pocket print t-shirt, cropped hoodie for girls, and a unisex sweatshirt; the sunrise can be with you whatever the weather.

Explore the full Rìchū collection here, or see all of Idioma's Summer '18 releases here.

Inside the restaurant, a stream of colours was flowing from wall to wall — hand-painted canvases featuring ripe fruit dangling from twisted trees. The menu was just as vibrant: lotus and jackfruit hummus, red tree ant stir fry, taro and shiitake dumplings.

Marum Food. Courtesy of The Tree Alliance

At first glance, Marum may seem simply an enchanting setting with delicious food. But a few clues scattered around the restaurant reveal its mission: staff uniforms marked with the word 'student' or 'teacher'; a pile of pamphlets about the Child Safe Movement; posters in the bathroom with disturbing facts about the institutionalisation of children to meet the demands of voluntourism.

This restaurant is part of the TREE alliance, a group of establishments which train young people who are at risk of social exclusion and exploitation. They provide them with the skills to work in the hospitality industry and employ them at their restaurants in Sihanoukville, Siem Reap, Phnom Penh, Vientiane, Luang Prabang, and Yangon.

Marum - Student and Teacher. Courtesy of The Tree Alliance

Tourism is, without a doubt, a tool for development. In recent decades, policymakers around the world have discovered the economic benefits of promoting their country as a tourist destination. Nevertheless, the proliferation of overseas travel has also worsened the exploitation of local communities and resources, escalating environmental degradation and rampant inequality.

Be it the advertisements for elephant rides or orphanage visits, the sinister aspects of tourism are ubiquitous in Cambodia. Sometimes we can convince ourselves that as long as we’re not participating in these activities, we have the right to turn a blind eye.

Actually, we don’t. Having the financial means, the health, the passport, the travel companions to be able to experience worldwide adventures is a great privilege. Following the logic of the worn-out saying, as travellers, we, therefore, bear a responsibility to make ourselves uncomfortable with the truth.

We spend hours researching the best low-cost eateries and the easiest travel links, but do we spend enough time looking into the ethical and environmental implications of the ways in which we travel and the activities we get involved in? Our curiosity may extend to learning a few phrases in the local language or to reading up about traditions or customs, but do we inform ourselves about the social, political and economic context of our destination? Ignorance is complicity when people’s lives and livelihoods are at stake.

Although our visit may be fleeting, the places we visit have existed long before and will exist long after we decide to pass through. A system of life unfolds, twisting and turning through history. ‘Marum' comes from the moringa tree, which is also known as the ‘tree of life’. Let’s not chip at the roots before the flowers have a chance to bloom.

- Moni

© CEphoto, Uwe Aranas / CC-BY-SA-3.0

Matthew and Michael Youlden are identical twins from Manchester with a super power — they are fluent in 11 languages and have knowledge of more than 20. They currently live in Berlin where they dedicate their time to spreading their passion for languages and sharing their linguistic skills, as translators, interpreters, teachers, accent coaches, e-learning experts — you name it, they do it. As fellow language-lovers, the Idioma team know all too well the addictiveness of language learning, as well as the importance of multilingualism, so we caught up with Matthew and Michael to find out more about the life of a polyglot.

How do you incorporate your love of languages into your daily life?

Michael: This might sound somewhat cheesy but we live and breathe languages every single day: with us it’s pretty much languages 24/7. From reading our emails in them to teaching in them or about them, from having our phones in different languages to listening to the radio whilst we work in them, from reading the newspapers in them to playing games in them, be it as part of our workshops or a language challenge, or simply as part of us relaxing and winding down after a day’s work, from listening to music in the language whilst jogging to enjoying a movie or series in the different language. There are so many different and ‘normal’ ways that languages form part of our day-to-day lives, and that’s what we find important: making another language a normal, everyday part of your life. 

What’s the best and the worse thing about being a polyglot?

What’s the best way to get started when learning a new language?

Michael: As unusual as this might sound, the best way to get started is literally to get started. We've met so many people over the years who “really want to learn Spanish” or other languages but don't think that (a) they can and (b) they have the time. We can all learn a language just by actively learning for as little (or as much!) as 15 minutes a day. The first barrier is crossing it, and when that has been achieved, the best way to get the ball rolling further is by making that language your own. We're firm believers that anything you do in your mother tongue you can do in another. In order therefore to fully connect with a language, that language ultimately has to become part of you, so start combining for example your hobbies with the language you are learning. I am football bonkers and so I read the Italian football dailies, watch German matches, play Fifa in Hungarian etc.

What do you think about the widely-held belief that if you haven’t been exposed to a language since birth you can never be completely fluent in it?

Matthew: This is very important to our work and, as we mentioned above, it’s part of our mission to dispel it (I also talked about it in my TEDx talk last year in Clapham). That and referring to languages as “foreign language”, which makes them sound alien or distant to us, and that’s also something we definitely don’t believe: a new language ultimately becomes part of us.

There’s more than enough proof out there that shows that people who have learned a language at a later stage have gone on to master the language. The famous Czech author, Milan Kundera, has been writing in French for over 20 years now.

Besides, as so-called native speakers of English, we also don’t know every word there is in our language. How many of us have tried to read an article about rocket science and haven’t understood everything in it, despite it being in our own language? Yet we would never doubt for one second that it’s our mother tongue. Any new language can be mastered.

What do you think is the best way of perfecting your accent when speaking another language? Is it possible for everyone?

Michael: Absolutely. It might take a while, but as we say, practice makes perfect! It’s all about being in constant contact with the language and using and practising it daily. Think of young children when they’re learning their own language. They pick up the words, intonation and the accent from their family and their surroundings, from imitating it and also from making mistakes in it. Speaking of imitating: A great way of developing your accent is to mimic someone you know that speaks that language. It could be an actor, sportsperson or even a politician. Essentially, it’s about finding your own accent in another language, just like we found our own accent in our mother tongue/s.

Do you have any favourite foreign language words or expressions?

Matthew: Sure, they’re what makes language learning even more fun! There are so many words out there that either sound absolutely amazing or, on an even more interesting note, have no direct translation in either English or other languages whatsoever. English has a wealth of words from other languages which we might not even perceive as non-English anymore. German has lent our language quite a few! Think of the word Doppelgänger for example. Another word here is ‘Futterneid’, and the beauty about German compound nouns is that there is a real sense of logic to them. If you break ‘Futterneid’ down into the two words that make up the word, ‘Futter’ and ‘Neid’, with ‘Futter’ meaning ‘(animal) food’ or even ‘fodder’, and ‘Neid’ meaning ‘jealousy’ or ‘envy’, the word therefore literally means ‘food envy’. Food envy alone however makes no sense in English, and the closest equivalent is perhaps another expression in English - the green-eyed monster - but in German it’s that feeling of envy, even regret when you see someone else’s food and it looks more appetizing than yours! We particularly love the sound of Danish, and one of our favourite words is ‘tanketorsk’. We love it for two reasons - one, the pronunciation of it just sounds marvellous, and the second reason is its meaning in English. The closest equivalent would be a gaffe, but it literally means “thought cod”!

What does the future look like for the Superpolyglotbros?

Michael: Even more multilingual! But not just from our side, but that of others too. We hope that the love, interest and passion we have for learning and promoting language learning and multilingualism spreads and we’ll do our utmost best to make sure it does!

To find out more about what Michael and Matthew do, check out their:

• Website 
• YouTube
• Facebook
• Twitter
• Instagram 

The Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo Credit: Terje Rakke 

After months of constant daylight, autumn arrives and the sun sets on the Lofoten Islands. While summer travellers might be attracted by the prospect of daylight at midnight, we think that watching the sun finally go down behind the snow-capped mountains is worth the wait. Scattered off the north coast of Norway, this archipelago is home to some of the most impressive scenery that the Arctic Circle has to offer. October may be the best month to go as the weather is still suitable for hiking, but, unlike in summer, you could catch a glimpse of the northern lights. Just get there before the sun sets for the long winter.

What to pack: This design is inspired by the German word ‘waldeinsamkeit’ which describes the feeling of being alone in the woods. Put on this t-shirt and go for a wander in the great outdoors where only the crackling of the copper leaves will breach the peace.

Essaouira, Morocco

Photo Credit: Pexels 

Often referred to as ‘The Windy City’, Essaouira’s sea breeze makes it the perfect location for water-sports enthusiasts. In October and November, the wind dies down slightly, welcoming visitors who are less experienced with waves. For those who prefer to stick to dry land, the cooler temperatures of the autumn months are ideal for exploring the old Portuguese ramparts or the stalls of the spice souk. This coastal town is also a hub for Moroccan art, so if you need a break from the sun, you can head for the shade of local galleries.

What to pack: With the Portuguese words ‘ondas’ (waves) and ‘vento’ (wind), could there be a better suited design to wear in Essaouira? Throw on this organic cotton tee when you get out of the water and it’ll keep you in the mood until the waves pull you back in.

Luang Prabang, Laos

Photo Credit: Myanmar Times 

The white sands of Thai islands and the modern skyscrapers of Singapore are well known to travellers of South East Asia, but few destinations in this area can hold a candle to the culture and natural beauty on offer in Laos. Despite its small size, the UNESCO-protected town of Luang Prabang is overflowing with unforgettable sights, sounds, smells, and tastes. After exploring the astounding architecture of the many temples, lovers of ethically-made fashion can take a weaving class at the local craft centre, Ock Pop Tok. Autumn is the dry season, so you can enjoy the views of the sun-soaked Mekong river at dusk without getting soaked yourself.

What to pack: Literally meaning ‘walking in beauty’, ‘Hózhó’ is a Navajo word that encompasses harmony, balance, beauty, and order — all of which can be found in abundance in Luang Prabang and its surroundings.

Serranía de la Macarena, Colombia 

Photo credit: Mario Carvajal

If we were to compose our own list of the wonders of the world, Caño Cristales may just win first place. This river has been named ‘the liquid rainbow’ because of the red, yellow, orange, blue, and green tones that colour its flowing waters. From July through to the end of November, the light and the water levels make it possible to appreciate this spectacle. Flanking the river is the Serranía de la Macarena, a natural park which has been described as one of the most biodiverse places on earth. The jaw-dropping flora and fauna are worth the voyage from the nearby town, La Macarena. 

What to pack: Animal lovers will be spoiled by sightings of a huge range of species in this natural park, so we’d recommend they blend in with their surroundings in this safari tee, which features the names of animals in 6 different languages.

Kotor, Montenegro

Photo credit: Pixabay / Mesuttoker

A UNESCO World Heritage site, the city of Kotor is a must-see. This fortified town attracts travellers with its medieval architecture. The city was planned as a labyrinth to make it easier to defend, which means that a stroll through the streets is an adventure in itself. Kotor is built along a bay, so visitors can alternate between biking or hiking on Mount Lovcen and water sports in the Adriatic Sea. Thrill-seekers can even take a day-trip to Tara River Canyon, and go rafting along the deepest river canyon in Europe.

What to pack: From the top of Mount Lovcen, you can savour the taste of freedom, and what better way to do it than clad in our Spanish Freedom in the Mountain sweatshirt.

Wanderlust 108 London

Victoria Park, London
Saturday 23rd September 

London's first ever mindful triathlon: a 5km run, yoga session and guided meditation, all in one morning! We'll be at the Kuala market with loads of other interesting and ethical brands all day. The market is open to the public so if you're in the area pop on down and say hi.

We're happy to announce we have a discount code for any of our customers who want to take part in the main event. Use the 20% Value code at www.wanderlust.com: 108London17Kula (Code is case sensitive)

OFFF Festival London

 

Language Show Live

Business Design Centre, Islington, London
Friday 13th - Sunday 15th October

Language Show London is Europe's biggest language event, spread across 3 days this October. There will be plenty of information about learning, teaching and everything else language related. Now for the first time in the Islington Business Design Centre, this year is set to be the best yet! The show is free to attend so if you have even a fleeting curiosity in languages it is sure to be a great day out.

Every weekend at a location in East London, a little bit of multi-lingual magic happens...  

Idioma are out and about around Brick Lane each and every weekend, talking to the people and spreading the world(s)!   

Come and see the latest designs, accessories and limited edition prints (soon to come online) from the brand. Or just come and have a natter with one of the team, who will be happy to talk for hours about ethical, organic and sustainable fashion, the languages behind our designs, or anything else you may have on your mind...

Idioma are at Brick Lane Sunday Upmarket on Sundays (10am - 6pm), and at Backyard Market on Saturdays (11am - 6pm) and Sundays (10am - 6pm).

Go Sustainable with Cannabis’ Less Intoxicating Cousin: Hemp 

As an ethical clothing brand, Idioma love sustainable fabrics and taking care of planet Earth. So it’s no surprise that we are looking for ways to increase our sustainability beyond using organic cotton and sweatshirts made of salvaged materials.

Given that it takes 2,700 litres to make the average cotton t-shirt(1), not ours obviously, a large percentage of the world’s water supply is being used by the textile industry. As someone who has witnessed first hand families surviving on 10 litres of water a day compared to us greedy Brits (Americans and Europeans are equally as greedy) who typically consume 150 litres a day, it’s time we look to other fabrics to help reduce the burden on our planet. 

But what other fabrics can we use? I’ve already mentioned organic cotton, but what about cannabis’ cousin hemp? Hemp has so many qualities that you may not be aware of.

A little historical insight

For over 6000 years, hemp has been utilised to make textiles and it was regularly used to make sail canvas including the sails on Christopher Columbus’ ship. The US Declaration of Independence was even printed on paper made out of hemp. In fact, the word canvas derives from cannabis; hemp is a variety of the Cannabis Sativa plant species.

Many years after Columbus set sail for distant lands, the famous car manufacturer, Henry Ford recognised hemp’s potential and built a prototype car that harnessed its powers. 

But hemp was made illegal soon after this, as it was believed by some, that many US companies were worried about the impact such a discovery might have on them, despite the more widely presented view underlining the close relationship between hemp and marijuana.

In 1937, the Marihuana Tax act of 1937 was passed meaning that anyone caught dealing with hemp, marijuana or cannabis, in a commercial context, would be fined. Some believed several businessmen were to blame for this decision including a paper manufacturer and the wealthiest man in the US at that time who had just invested heavily in DuPont’s new synthetic fabric, Nylon. However, these links have been disputed by those involved. 

To build on Ford’s legacy, a Canadian company called Motive Industries have recently designed a car made primarily from hemp and whilst not yet on sale is proving of great interest to global investors(2). While across the border in the US, researchers have been using hemp waste fibres that usually end up in landfill as a cheaper alternative to Graphene given their ability to be transformed into high performance energy storage devices that could be used in electric cars(3).

Why grow hemp?

Despite hemp’s chequered history, it is grown in many countries around the world and China is currently the world’s largest producer and exporter. Given its similarity to cannabis and the fact that it contains THC (the psychoactive component found in Cannabis), albeit at a lower concentration, many countries require hemp to be bred with a specifically low THC content. 

Hemp grown in Europe contains little or no THC and mainly supplies the specialist paper industry and the non-woven converting industry (they supply automotive companies).

As a textile, hemp has numerous qualities and is known to be a fast-growing crop that adapts to many types of soil and climatic conditions. It also needs less help from pesticides and is often used as a mop crop to clear impurities from wastewater and is helping to clear contaminants at the Chernobyl nuclear disaster site. Many farmers consider hemp as a good break crop as it replenishes the soil with nutrients such as nitrogen and gives the land a much-needed rest from intensive farming. Hemp is also a long-lasting fabric that softens with wearing, wrinkles less than linen, is six times stronger than cotton and can be made into a variety of items. But best of all, it requires a considerably smaller amount of water to grow the crop and produces 200-250% more crop on the same amount of land(4). 

There are several retailers who make clothes from hemp, including US outdoor clothing company Patagonia but it is an expensive material to work with as Derek Thomas of an LA-based clothing startup explains: “[h]emp is significantly more expensive than cotton…because the hemp supply chain is encumbered with setbacks. We just don’t have the machinery here in the US to produce the hemp textiles(5).” However, there are organisations in the US trying to change this, but the majority of hemp is still produced in China due to heavy investment in machinery. 

President Obama has been supportive in encouraging the growth of industrial hemp and signed the 2014 Farm Bill ‘allowing for universities and state departments of agriculture to begin cultivating industrial hemp for limited purposes’ in other words for research or pilot programme purposes(6). ‘State statutes, with the exception of West Virginia, define industrial hemp as a variety of cannabis with a THC concentration of not more than 0.3 percent.(7) As of March 2016, over half of US states allowed for some hemp production but they had to seek permission from the Drug Enforcement Agency to grow the seeds (this video made by Patagonia explains the challenges) making hemp production in the US rather protracted. Despite this, the ability to grow industrial hemp on an ever wider scale in the US will enable researchers to understand to a greater extent the benefits of growing and using hemp in a variety of products. And hopefully the interest in hemp will ensure the world’s water supply and environment are treated with more respect.

If global brands such as Converse and Levi Strauss have used this versatile material then surely many more can follow. 

So whilst hemp t-shirts might not be readily available on the high street just yet, spare a thought for our beautiful planet when you pick up that cotton t-shirt and at the very least buy organic.

References: 

Last weekend Idioma had the pleasure of meeting the boys and girls of Amsterdam and it went a little something like this... Many thanks to everyone involved and for the amazing hospitality of the Dutch. For those of you who missed us, we'll be back so watch this space!

Dank je wel Amsterdam.

Ever wondered what happened to that old, but once stylish, shirt you donated to your local charity shop?

It is always assumed that people who shop at charity shops buy the clothes we donate. In reality, most of the clothes that we stuff into a black plastic bag and drive to a charity shop end up halfway around the world.

With the UK’s addiction to fast fashion, numbers linked to this trend point out a worrying situation. While figures vary, one study suggests that as many as 8 out of 10 garments are not actually sold in charity shops. Landfills, and developing countries seem to be among the favourite destinations for our worn clothes.

One of the places some of your belongings could end up in is Accra, Ghana. Here your cast offs are affectionately known as obroni wawu meaning “dead white man’s clothes”.

Photo courtesy of Scope.org,uk

What happens to your clothes once they arrive in Ghana?

Ghana is the largest buyer of donated clothes. Ghana’s capital Accra sees over 30,000 tons arrive at its port every year.  

Photo courtesy of kivafellows.wordpress.com

The clothes come in bales and each bale can weigh up to 55 kg. The majority of these bales come from the UK. The obroni wawu are then bought by the bale, and each purchaser sorts them into tiers according to brand and quality. These purchasers will then re-sell these clothes onto other merchants who will sell them on dusty roadsides across the country.

The real problem with this process lies in the speed, quantity and the rock bottom prices in which charity clothes arrive and are sold in developing countries like Ghana. Indeed, in Ghana, one of these items can often be bought for as little as 25p. Therefore, most Ghanaians end up buying western clothes instead of local and traditional garments because they are so much cheaper to purchase.

What about Ghana’s own clothing industry?

Fabrics like in the picture below give you an idea of the difference between the cheap western clothes flooding the markets of Accra, and the high quality hand loomed fabrics locally produced in Ghana.

Photo courtesy of arhinarmah.wordpress.com

Unfortunately though this indigenous tradition is under threat. The lower prices of obroni wawu coupled with the fact that many people in Ghana, particularly the younger generation, prefer to wear western clothing (due to the influence of social media and TV), threatens both the wearing of Ghanaian fabrics and the traditional cultural practice of weaving fabric using a handloom.

The overall lack of demand for more traditional clothing has therefore had a major impact on the Ghanaian clothing industry. For example, one of Ghana’s largest textile manufacturers Akosombo Textiles, was producing nearly 2 million metres a month in 2009. This amount has now fallen by 75 per cent putting many local textile businesses on the verge of closing down.

Spare a thought

While it is true that some of the UK charities that ship and sell our used clothes to Ghana are dedicated to assisting the country’s education and health sectors, it doesn’t take away the fact that they are simultaneously having a negative impact on Ghana’s local industry and economy.  

Next time you donate your clothes to a charity shop, spare a thought for those African clothing shops you might be unintentionally putting out of business, or those workers in that fabric factory that might lose their jobs.

Fashion is a fickle business, but as consumers we hold great power. By making informed and more ethical purchases we can consume less and force retailers to change as well.  

References:

Danquah, M. N., 2009. Dead white people’s clothes. The Root [online], 5 March 2009. Available from:  http://www.theroot.com/articles/politics/2009/03/donating_clothes_to_africa.html [Accessed 25 July 2014].

Wallop, H. 2014. The secret life of your charity shop cast offs. Telegraph [online], 12 July 2014. Available from: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/newsbysector/retailandconsumer/10961849/The-secret-life-of-your-charity-shop-cast-offs.html [Accessed 20 July 2014].

This World: The Secret Life of Your Clothes. 2014. [television programme]. BBC2. 14 July 2014. 21:00.