1)  Make Your Mock Up!

I know this is SO annoying to hear over and over when you want to just dive right in to a project, especially when on a time crunch, but this is one of my TOP suggestions for a successful finished garment.

Pure and simple, it’s this.  No matter how talented the pattern maker, you just can’t expect a pattern to fit you straight out of the package.  It’s a totally unrealistic expectation.  Each pattern company uses different ease and different blocks to base their pattern off of, and when using vintage patterns, we have to remember that they were often proportionally different than we are today due, in a large part, to foundation garments and what they ate (and what was in their food).  Plus, each of us carries weight differently, are different in height, and have different proportions of torso length, arm length, etc.  If you’ve had any sort of injury, your stance may be different, and most of us are not proportionally the same on both sides (unlike dressmaker forms).

Think of going shopping and how frustrating it is to find clothing that fits.  I’m not talking clothing with stretch, but woven, non-stretch clothing.  Just as we can’t expect we’d be the same size OR have everything fit us and all of our friends perfectly right off the rack, we can’t expect the same from our sewing patterns.  It’s just not going to be the case.

Or, if you like, think of it this way.  In theatre, there are different roles to play.  The designer designs the garment and buys the fabric and trims (or has their assistant do it).   The design sketch is then handed off to the draper, who creates the pattern from the sketch.  The First Hand prepares the fabric for sewing and instructs the stitchers.  The stitchers sew the garment together.  Then the draper fits the garment on the actor.  An actor almost NEVER walks straight into a garment with no alterations.  It’s extremely rare.. like finding a four leaf clover in a field of grass.  So, if all those professionals who do this for a living have to do all those jobs and STILL do several fittings, we’ve got to, too!  Just like they make the first garment in cheap fabric because they KNOW there are going to be changes ahead, we have to keep that in our mind, too.  Because we’ve paid the pattern company to design and prepare the blueprint for us to construct the garment, but in the end we’re the design assistant shopping for fabrics and the first hand, draper, and actor in one.  Man, are we talented  But we can’t expect to just walk into a perfectly fitted, made, and tailored garment- we’ve gotta put in the time!

So make your mock up!  It seriously will save you money in the long run.  Cut it out of the cheap $1 a yard fabric and save your $10 a yard fabric for when you know you’ve got it right, instead of spending $40 on fabric for a garment without a mock up that you then HATE and never wear because it didn’t end up right.

2)  Choose Your Fabric Wisely

A lot of this comes with experience.  Get familiar with what fabrics are, what different fibres do, and what effect you want from your finished garment.  If you want it to flow, don’t pick a midweight quilting cotton, denim, or corduroy… go for a pretty rayon, drapey fabric.  If you want structure, you’ll have better luck with a wool suiting rather than a wool crepe.  If you want something slinky, pick a heavier fabric that drapes well, such as crepe back satin.  Don’t be afraid to grab the bolt, head to a mirror, and drape the fabric over your shoulder.  Check that the color suits you AND that the fabric does what it should for your design.  Read the pattern maker’s suggestions for fabric and heed them wisely.  When you have sewn enough to know what will work for what, then you can deviate- but until then, it’s best to heed warnings and pay attention to fabric QUALITY, drape, color, and style.  A few bucks extra for nice fabric in a good weave will be a good investment as well, so this is really where you shouldn’t skimp out (though sales are always good!) and if you’re doing a fabric with a print you need to match or sewing with something with a nap, like velvet, always allow yourself extra fabric.

3- Pre-treat your fabric in the method you will launder your finished garment.

It’s no fun to spend all that time sewing only to have it shrink up on you after you wash it   Do that first, and if you don’t know how you’re supposed to launder it, or what will be best for your garment, ask someone who will know.

4)  Mark all your pattern marks directly after cutting out the pieces.  

I do this before I even remove the pattern from the fabric I just cut. Mark all your notches, darts, points you gather to, dots, etc accurately.  THIS IS SUPER IMPORTANT!  Your notches should match up, which lets you know your garment is going together the way it should.  Mark your darts, and draw the lines in for yourself if you have to.  Especially when you’re dealing with wiggly fabrics, markings tend to shift.  You want to make sure your dart placement is correctly mirrored on both sides of your fabric so your lines don’t get wiggly when finished.  ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS test your marking method on a scrap of your final fabric BEFORE marking.  If it doesn’t come out, better to learn on a little scrap than have a whole beautifully made dress with annoying dots and lines that will live on it forever.  What a waste that would be!

5) Always be careful to cut fabric on the correct grain.

I like to use the straight edge of a table with one of those cardboard cutting mats on top when cutting flimsy, picky fabrics.  I line the selvage right up to the edge, and pin, pin, pin- all the way down the piece, then smooth it over so that it is perfectly square and laying correctly.  I then use an “L Square” ruler to measure out from the selvage to my grain at the top and bottom of my grainline so that I can be sure the piece is placed correctly.  If your fabric is extra fiddly, cut single, not double thicknesses.  Sure, it takes longer, but at least you know the pieces underneath haven’t shifted on you!  Cutting one piece at a time is also the way to go when matching patterns such as an all over print, stripes, or plaids.

6)  Do a Fitting!

Obviously this is not in order, since your mock up fitting will be before your fashion fabric gets cut, but you need to do a fitting so you can make sure the garment fits you right.  For a mock up, I do all seams in a large stitch length so the pieces are easy to rip apart afterwards, in case I need to correct my pattern.  Wear the foundation garments and shoes you will wear with your final garment.  Look in a full length mirror (if possible), and check your fit.  Especially helpful watch points are the waist length (does it fit at my natural waist and lie smoothly over my bust?  If wrinkles, it’s too long.  If above the waist, and it’s meant to sit at the waist, it’s too short).  Check the shoulders.  Does it fit correctly, without drag lines, or without pulling too tight?  Does the skirt hit at a flattering place?  Turn to the side.  Does the front or back of the skirt kick out more than the other side?  Does your sleeve hang straight when your arm is down in it’s natural position?  Then check the back, or get a friend to take a snapshot of the back for you.  This age of digital cameras is excellent for fittings!  Taking snaps before you step out of the garment is helpful, and helps you refer back to it after you’ve gotten out of your mock up.  And don’t be critical of your face!  We’re looking at your garment, not your face.  And seriously, who dresses up fancy to sew?  (If you do, big kudos.  I don’t!)

7)  When in the planning stages, consider the “guts” of a piece

This goes back at the beginning, when you’re “designing” your piece.  Think about the insides in relation to what fabric you’ve chosen.  What would be the best seam finish?  How are you going to finish your edges?  Are you going to line it?  What would be the best fastener to use?  Planning these things ahead will help you down the road.  You can always change them later if you have to, but having them in mind at the beginning of the project helps you figure out the best plan of attack for your design and fabric.

8-  Press as you go

And in the correct iron heat for your fabric (this should be a no brainer, but who hasn’t scorced their fabric at some point?).  Directly after you finish a sewing step, press!  Do another one, PRESS!, Keep on going, and press as you go.  It really does make a much more professional looking garment when you’re done.

9)  Use sharp needles!

Sharp needles and pins, and a well oiled machine.  Take care of your machinery!  A happy sewing machine makes a happy seamstress.

10)  Everyone has lemons.  Chalk it up to a learning curve and move on!

We all have projects that go sour.  If it happens to you, worry not! We’re all in the same boat here.  So throw it across the room, stamp on it, cry on it, bleed on it (kidding, I hope), and then keep on’ truckin’!  It matters not, and don’t let that dress defeat you!  If worse comes to worse, someone who finds that half finished dress at the thrift store will probably think they found gold.  Sometimes we’ve all just got to cut our losses and move on!  I bet you’ve learned something new during this project, so just go into the next with those things in mind.

There’s my top tips I can think of for now!

Just for kicks, I’m adding this video. I discovered it quite a number of years ago, and I swear, I learned more things I didn’t know about preparing for sewing through this than I did in fashion design school!

What can you add to my list that may be helpful for others?

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I’ve been puttering away on something I’ve been meaning to make for probably about ten years… a new set of 18th Century stays!

I’m taking part in Jen of Festive Attyre’s Curtain Along sewing project, and wiffled and waffled on what I wanted to make.  I had purchased one of the cream background curtains sometime last year and Ginger of Scene of the Past was kind enough to send me another one as a birthday gift last year. About a month or two ago, I finally settled on a transitional 1790s dress. At first I thought I wanted a high waisted one so could make do with Regency stays, but now I’m thinking I want one just slightly raised from the natural waist.  Similar to the image below:

Dress, 1790s, The Metropolitan Museum of Art

I did have to go through several more changes, after my mock up, to get the silhouette to what I wanted and get the seam lines where I wanted, but this is a general idea.

After researching, I decided to use modern zip ties for boning, since I had heard many costumers use them with success for this period.  My husband picked me up some at the hardware store.  I also decided to go for a non-period correct, but “period style” fabrics.  Most stays, from what I understand, were linen, or linen covered in silk.  I chose to use an inner layer of corset coutil, a lining of linen, and an outer fabric of silk.

First the lining and inner layer were constructed first, since I read that “half boned stays”, what I chose to make, were often covered in a fashion fabric that would not show the boning seam lines.

Next, I flat lined the boned construction to the silk fashion fabric.  Then I covered my seam lines with decorative bias binding made with the silk taffeta I decided to use as contrast.

The trim was all hand sewn to place, then began the long and tedious task of binding the tabs.  This article on Your Wardrobe Unlock’d was extremely helpful.  I’m not all together pleased with how my tab binding looks, but after a good press I hope they’ll lay better.

Finally got the tabs done, and it was time to look into making eyelets.  I had to figure out spacing and look into spiral lacing, which was the period correct way to lace stays.  Check out Jen of Festive Attyre’s extremely helpful article about spiral lacing.  I forgot to test my strap placement and length, so I’ve got to get them wearable before I bind the top edge.

Like a crazy person, I decided to do the eyelets all by hand.  No offense to those who love to do them that way is meant at all- I’ve just discovered I’m NOT good at doing hand bound eyelets.

Oh well.

I’ve finished the front ones, and now I’m on to the back ones.  Unfortunately, my knuckles ache like crazy when doing this sort of handwork, even when I’m wearing my sewing hand brace and using a thimble, so I keep having to take breaks (which I used to resize cut out a 1940s dress…).  The problem is, I can’t make my Curtain Along dress or my desired Gala dress until I get my darn stays done!

Making these has given me even more appreciation for costumers who make beautiful 18th century stays, like Before the Automobile and Jenny La Fleur.  *le sigh*

Hopefully mine will be done soon.  I wish I could teach my kitties to hand sew eyelets for me!

(edited to add… The original blog post title was “Stay-ing Alive”, and I’m such a dummy,  I totally spaced that there was an excellent blog of that same title in existence.  I hope Abby will forgive my shortsightedness and absentmindedness.  It was honestly a mistake!  In the meantime, please check out Abby’s blog, Staying Alive.  http://stay-ingalive.blogspot.com/)

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“This sounds like such a cool giveaway! I’ve always adored the Great Gatsby and loved the romanticism of the roaring twenties. I’ve never given twenties sewing a big look, but I would love to be able to include it in everyday clothing! This year, I’d like to try to sew a “flapper” dress!”

Mallory, we’ll be in touch soon about your e-book!

 If you didn’t win the giveaway, you can purchase your own copy of the ebook at The Vintage Dancer’s website. It’s a special lower price for a limited time.

Thank you so much to Debbie of The Vintage Dancer for hosting the giveaway!

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Aren’t these just exquisite?

Click the image above to read descriptions of the color image below.

Click the image below to read the descriptions of the image above.

Just stunning!  This has to be one of the best periods for hats EVER.  *swoon*

Don’t forget to enter the giveaway that Debbie of Vintage Dancer has generously offered to my blog readers!  The giveaway ends tomorrow night!!  Click here to be taken to the post.

Happy Almost-the-Weekend!

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I have a real treat for you today.  Debbie Vintage Dancer has kindly offered to host a giveaway here on my blog!  In celebration of The Great Gatsby and all things 1920′s, Debbie has compiled a great e-book full of lovely images of 1920s fashion next to the literary great.  Please read Debbie’s guest post as she tells us more about the 1920s, her e-book, and Vintage Dancer:

Debbie (that’s me) and hubby, Oscar dressed up for the Great Gatsby movie premier.

It case you hadn’t noticed, the 1920s have roared back into fashion. Movie fashion (Great Gatsby) TV series (Downtown Abbey we love you) and Boardwalk Empire (eye candy for men especially.) With the Hollywood wave came an infusion of 20s inspired clothing like tiered shift dresses, lace blouses, t-strap shoes, headbands and cloche hats. It is a joy for me to shop and see all of these trends come back.

For the past two years I have been researching 1920’s fashion history. I confess, I am a library nerd. My interest in 20’s started when my hubby and I had a chance to buy the most gorgeous house in our neighborhood built in 1920. My knowledge of the 20’s at the time was limited to the stereotypical fringe flapper dresses, cloche hats and cigarette holders. Two years later I would have to say I am definitely in love with the REAL 1920s!

(How dare these flappers show off their stockings!)

Not only was the fashion so beautiful, so simple, and so comfortable but all the changes in society and the world at large was monumental. I equate the 20’s to the 60’s a lot because both were times of big changes, new ideas, and drastically different fashions from the decades before and after. In the 1920’s, women’s clothing came down to just a set of undies, a slip, and a straight cut dress, whereas the 1900’s had at least 17 layers of clothing that you couldn’t put on without the help of a maid servant. The freedom of clothing made it possible for women to have fun: play sports, drive cars, go on dates (alone!), sun bath, and dance a 24 hour marathon. We take these things for granted today but they were all new activities enjoyed by all classes of people. Improved labor laws gave the two day weekend to the working class and with it the idea of spending your hard earning money on the movies, taking a drive in the country, or buying ready made clothing!

(1922 Summer Frocks)

I put all my research into a free 12 week blog/email series called the 1920’s Style Guide. http://www.vintagedancer.com/1920s/1920s-style-guide-series/ You can sign up for the series and learn all about real fashion in the 1920s for both women and men. The series is full of pictures, stories, and shopping sources. I am working on adding some sewing, hairstyling, and makeup tutorials too.

Originally the blog series was going to be another book (previously I wrote a book about the 1940s) but I since shifted course and published a different book: The Great Gatsby in Fashion.  I had never read the Great Gatsby so I made a point of doing so last summer where I discovered there were a lot of references to fashion in the novel some of which I knew about and others like “Pottery Bracelets” I was baffled by. The Great Gatsby in Fashion highlights and explains all about the clothing in The Great Gatsby. The full text of the novel is included so while you read (or reread) Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby you will be learning about authentic 1920s fashion for women and men. I included over 60 photographs and illustrations too.  Love pictures!

Currently the eBook is on sale for a limited time for only 99 cents at  http://www.vintagedancer.com/great-gatsby-in-fashion/ It comes in PDF, .mobi (for Kindle) and .epub (for Nook and iPad ) so you can read it however you like. Keep reading here for a chance to win a free copy.

Lauren asked if I would share a little about why I started my website VintageDancer.com. http://www.vintagedancer.com/ Part of my motivation was to share my passion for researching vintage clothing via the blog but the other, bigger part, is to help you shop.  As costumers I think you know how hard it can be to put together your entire costume, within budget, especially when you are just starting out. Thanks to Lauren’s amazing patterns you can sew a reproduction outfit easily but what about the rest? What about accessories, shoes, undergarments, or swimsuits? If you have the budget, vintage is best but if you are broke like my hubby and I were when we first started costuming together we had to find new, cheaper, “vintage inspired” clothing and shoes to create a period look.

Let me tell you it was tough! Very tough to find clothing both locally and online. It was out there but to find, say one pair of two tone oxfords for my husband, or a lace blouse for myself, took days of wading through online shop after online shop looking for the right vintage style. That’s when I had a light bulb moment. What If I made a website listing all the vintage style clothing I can find online and sort it by era and type to make shopping A LOT easier? Bingo! A few months later, in 2009, VintageDancer.com http://www.vintagedancer.com/ was born. The site now aggregates (links to) over 4,000 dresses, tops, pants, swimsuits, men’s suits, hats, shoes, jewelry and more in the styles up to the 1960’s. Many items come from sites you probably already love like Modcloth and Unique Vintage while others may be new to you. I research each era and then hand select each item featured on the shopping pages. I spend a lot of time window shopping online so if you ever need help findings something specific I am more than happy to point you in the right direction.

Thank you Lauren, for letting me share my story and my passion for vintage history. Because Lauren is so awesome she and I are hosting a giveaway of one copy of the Great Gatsby in Fashion. To enter leave a comment below telling us about your plans to make or wear Gatsby era clothing this year.*

*I know already that many comments will be “I don’t have the body type for 20’s clothing.” WRONG! With the right colors, style, and hat all body types can and do look stunning in 1920’s clothing. I have a free ebook to help you get started. http://www.vintagedancer.com/1920s/1920s-fashion-for-your-body-type/ And a list of 1920’s patterns too. http://www.vintagedancer.com/1920s/1920s-patterns/

Thank you, Debbie, for hosting this giveaway!

About The Giveaway

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Enjoy!

In this black and white image you can see the back view of the dresses (or dress and jumper) pictured above.

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Today I have a few lovely images from 1908 from a great bound French fashion magazine I came across last year called Mirror Des Modes.  Although I am far from fluent in French so cannot translate for you, I think these photos themselves are inspiration for the “How-To” of the Gibson Girl look!  And fear not!  Looks like these ladies used switches of hair and hairpieces to achieve the look, just like we would do today (though they were real human hair, most likely, or another natural substitute- not the plastic like we have today. Note to self: research false hair.)

If you have a go at any of these styles, please share your photos!

For more images from this magazine, click here to see previous posts.

xo- Lauren

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Our team was responsible for buliding the lead female ensembles (minus hats and crafts), so we built things for Hildy, Molly, and Mrs Baldwin.  Here’s some promotional stills that are property of the La Jolla Playhouse to illustrate:

Here’s a few of the close up shots I took of the costumes while we were building them.  They were so detailed and structurally well built (if we do say so ourselves), that I had to share the details you might not catch on stage.

Here’s an “in progress” shot of Mrs Baldwin’s coat.  This was before we added the rhinestones, bows, and the butterfly frog (that you can’t see in the promo shots, but if you go see it in person you’ll get to see it!).  And yes, we had to attach all that lace by hand!

Here is an up close shot of Hildy’s suit coat.  We based the shape of the body off of an original vintage pattern in my collection and then Sarah Maisel, our talented draper and ukelele superstar, changed the pattern to our needs.  Karen, our master stitcher, actually stacked the pieces one on top of the other, and bagged out all the corners using silk organza.  And, of course, it’s got the tailoring “guts” all in there.  We had help of many stitchers in all the projects, but I think they came out just beautiful.  A real group effort!

We got to costume Jenn Lyon as “Hildy Johnson”, Mary Beth Peil  as “Mrs Baldwin”, and Bethany Anne Lind as “Molly Malloy”, and they were all a dream to work with!

His Girl Friday runs now through June 30th at the La Jolla Playhouse and features many talented actors and a great creative team.  You can read more about the cast here (pdf file).  I haven’t seen it yet but am so excited to see it soon!  It’s a combination of The Front Page (the original 1920s play) and the 1940′s His Girl Friday film we’re all so familiar with, with a few original twists thrown in the mix, too.

I hope you can see it!  Get more info and buy tickets at The La Jolla Playhouse website.

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I know I post mostly pretty little inspiration images from the past, but every once in a while I’ve got to let myself out of the bag and share some (gasp!) opinions.  I know they are not shared by everyone, but let’s take a moment to be silly and indulgent, and share my personal likes and dislikes.  This time I bring you the Historical Costuming edition of my persona Likes and Dislikes, complied with some of my favorite costumes I’ve made over the years to illustrate.  This goes both into the making of and wearing of historical costumes, which I usually think of as anything portraying 100 years from today and older.

#1

Like-  Feeling pretty in a costume.

Dislike-  Being called a “Pretty Pretty Princess.”

There’s this little thing going on around the costuming world that seems to divide the hobby into two camps.  There’s the “Historical Accuracy” club, then there’s the “Pretty Pretty Princess” club.  Surely, there has to be middle ground here?  I love historical accuracy.  I like getting the look right for the time period.  But for me it get to be “this is close enough”, and I think that tends to group me into the “Pretty Pretty Princess” group.  I love costumers from both worlds.  I like to look pretty accurate and feel pretty.  I may use modern technique and (gasp!) convincingly good looking synthetic fibres on occasion, but I like to have as accurate as possible of period cut and silhouettes but not put unnecessary pressure or stress on myself if I don’t get it 100% right all of the time.  But I hate being called a “princess”!!  That “title” was bandied about quite a bit when I was a senior in high school and I always hated it.  I have no illusions of grandeur,  I just like what I like and I want to get a good result.  So I think it’s fair that we can play a little bit in both camps.  Just don’t call me a princess, please.

#2

Likes- Shopping for Fabrics in Person

Dislikes- Shopping for Fabrics Online

I’m totally spoiled and have the Los Angeles Garment District within distance to make it daytrip-able, so I love being able to hunt for fabrics in person.  There’s nothing like being able to feel a fabric in person and see the color accurately.  But there always comes a time when you need just a yard or two of coordinating fabric to  make your project work right, and it usually comes when the budget and time for fabric is very slim.  I stalk places online, but you just never know quite how it will feel or look in person.  So I go for online shopping for things that take few yards or I know I won’t need something to coordinate with it, or when it’s just a basic I need.  Otherwise, my online shopping finds always end in disappointment.  I know for my own sake I need to stay away from the garment district as much as possible, because I go crazy and never have the time to sew all the things I have fabric for.  And why is it that no matter how much fabric you have, you never have the right thing for your project?

#3

Likes- Getting the period accurate silhouette with foundation garments

Dislikes- You have to make the foundation garment before you get to the fun part of making a costume.

Darn it, I’m now in my 30s and my figure it different. Which means I have to revisit making foundation garments if I want to make pretty dresses!  I HATE making corsets.  I think it’s SOOO boring!  But I like the silhouette I get with the right corset and other foundations that are needed for the period!  I think just about the only period underwear I like to make are Edwardian, because I can slap as much lovely lace on them that I want to.  Otherwise, sewing underwear and corsets is a snorefest for me.

#4

Likes- Going to dress up events.

Dislikes- When my somewhat timid nature is misconstrued.

I like going to dress up events and talking to folks.  I love geeking out about costumes and vintage clothing.  But I have to fight pretty hard to overcome my shyness and somewhat timid nature.  You know that whole introverts vs. extroverts thing?  I’m totally in the first camp.  The interwebs makes it easy on us introverts, because we can say our peace and post pictures, etc, but we can then back away from it and keep petting our kitties and hiding out in our houses.  I only half jest.  But in reality, I have been told more than once by now dear friends that when they first saw me they thought I was a snob, and then when they actually talked to me they realized I was just shy.  How sad that makes me!!  I have since found that other shy types have had similar experiences.  I’m learning to be more outgoing as I get older, and once I’m confortable I’m quite a bit of a ham, but it takes a while to gain that confidence.  I don’t understand why there are many of us who have no problems putting on some big outlandish costume, but then when we actually have to talk about things our tongue gets tied.  Have you ever tried hiding out in the background in a bustle dress?  And yet we forget what we look like and retreat to our same ol’ social habits.  So if you ever meet me in person, don’t think anything of it if I’m shy or don’t introduce myself first. It’s not that I don’t want to meet you- it’s just that sometimes I don’t know what to say to get the ball rolling.  But I have learned with time, that when in doubt, we can always talk about our hobbies, and I love asking questions about how people made what they wear.

Which brings me to…

#5

Likes- Admiring other’s costumes and talking technique

Dislikes- Snarkiness or unsolicited advice

I LOVE love love admiring and looking at other people’s costumes.  If I get the nerve up, I love to ask questions and drool up close at all the beautiful details.  Ask Colleen, of Costume College, how costumer’s greet each other and she’ll show you.  We look, we fondle fabric, we pet trim, and then we look each other in the eye and give a big hug.  Haha!  It’s so true!  But what I don’t like is observing or hearing snarky comments some people make about other people’s costumes. It makes me sad and hurts my heart.  Once upon a time I thought it was amusing, but thankfully, for a long while since, I found that all that snarkiness just came from a jealousy or a need to boost up ones self, knowledge and skill.  It’s sad.  I’d much rather encourage and see people grow and learn and keep on going and doing their thing.  We all had to learn.  So instead of being snarky from afar, or in comments, or giving unsolicited advice, learn to be gracious and help each other out.  There, I’ll get off my soap box now.  But wouldn’t it be so much more fun to play dress up if we didn’t have to worry about what other people were saying behind or back (or, to our face, or in our comments?)

#6

Likes- Playing with Trim

Dislikes- Finishing

The thing I love the MOST about a dress is when it’s almost done and I can play with all the trims I want to make or put on a dress.  I love LOVE doing self trims and pouring over books and period sources to figure out how and where the trims would go.  Especially on early bustle dresses from the late 1860s to early 1870s when trim was THE THING.  But I HATE doing finishing steps, and usually I have to do that before I sew on on trim.  Hems! Blech!  Snaps and hooks and eyes! Blargh!  There has been many a time I have had a skirt permanently fasten with safety pins at the waistline.  I can make a whole darn dress but when it comes to five minutes to sew on that fastener- forget it!  And boning! Snore!  I have putting boning in Victorian bodices.  If I can get away without it I will.  And now you know my dirty little secrets.  At least two of them

#7 

Likes- Getting all dressed up and ready to go out the door!

Dislikes- And then remembering you have to put your shoes on!

Shoes and then corset.  But I always forget that.  It’s hard to put your darn shoes on after you’ve been corseted.  Nuff said.

#8

Likes- Planning how I’m going to make a costume.  The design bit.

Dislikes- Having to enlarge or make a pattern, especially if I’m in a time crunch.

I love patterns.  I have an abnormally large pattern stash.  But no matter how many patterns you have, they all need some finessing to get them just right.  None ever fit straight out of the packet, and the more I learn about period cuts and construction, the fewer options I have for ready made patterns for exactly what I want to make. There are some tried and true patterns I return to time and again (like Truly Victorian, which I used to make the outfit above), but some of them I’ve sewn so many times it almost feels like cheating to use them again.  But I really dislike having to draft a pattern once I’ve got my design I want squared away.  Le Sigh.  I truly am a designer in spirit.  I dislike making patterns.  There, now you know another little secret  I do, however, LOVE draping.  Too bad there’s not more opportunities when time allows for it!

#9

Likes- Feathers and Old Paper

Dislikes- Allergies!

It’s been nearly a year since I was aware I had allergies, and this will be my first Costume College with my awareness of my allergies to feathers!  WOE!  If you haven’t gathered, by the photos I’ve shared, I LOVE feathers.  They make hats that much more special.  But I am sadly now aware I’m allergic to both feather and the mold that grows on old paper, vintage clothing, and vintage fur.  Alas!  I’m still battling the allergies and going in for my allergy shots, so hopefully one day I can indulge slightly in my loves more than I have so far.  But if you’re wondering why I haven’t been posting as much in the way of original source material or listing vintage patterns as much on Etsy, now you know why.  I can do it with my ever so elegant Darth Vadar-esque face mask on, and sometimes without, but with my hyper sensitivity to these things, it’s often better to just do without.

#10

I had fully intended to make it to number ten, but I’ve run out of things to say.  Instead, I’ll give you my version I made of a meme that was circulating on facebook a year or so ago.  That says enough

Can you relate?  Do you have your own likes and dislikes?  Let me know in the comments below!

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The e-Pattern for the new 1940′s Overalls pattern is live on my website!

This is available in three different size packs.  You can purchase your size pack on this page here.

For more info on the new e-pattern, view the pattern listings on my website.

Happy sewing!!

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