Here’s my finished Regency short stays!  Since asked in a previous post for more info, I thought I’d do this follow up and a brief pattern review.  Sorry,  I’m not going to be modelling these, for modesty’s sake.

Pattern review guidelines borrowed from patternreview.com

Pattern used: Sense and Sensibility Regency Underthings. I used the E-Pattern and only made the short stays.

Pattern Sizing: 6-26D.  I used size 8.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, but I made alterations to the back (made it scooped and not squared), and also cut the front length down at the top.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It really works!  It gives the accurate shape and went together pretty quickly for a period foundation garment.  The instructions were also quite well done and I loved that she gave suggestions for smaller ladies.

Fabric Used: Two layers of corset coutil.  This was not what was originally called for in the pattern. She called for three layers- linen, coutil, and cotton, or something similar.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I did make many changes, most of which I outlined in my previous post. Instead of rewriting them, you can read them on my last (very wordy) post about these stays.

After I posted the last post I added twill tape to the top and bottom of the stays to bind them and chose to run a lace through the binding so that I could snug in my neckline even more and prevent it from falling off of my shoulder. I’m very glad I did this, as I can feel the extra stability from having that extra tie there. I just tuck the ends inside my gown when I wear it.  I may, however, replace it with a thinner cord sometime in the future, as this one is a little bulky and made a little bump on the surface of my white cotton gown when worn.  Of gowns of thicker fabric, like my evening gown, you could not see the ties.  I also cut in the underarm 1/2″ at the front because it dug in a bit.  I could even cut it in an extra 1/2″ for more comfort, or convert the straps to tying on in front instead of being fully attached, to be even more comfortable.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, definitely, on both accounts.  I suggest making at least one mock up. I believe I made two, then still  needed to alter my pattern afterward.  Make your mock up in a hearty fabric like a cotton twill or duck that does not stretch. My muslin stretched on me and caused me heartache.  I also want to play with the straps more in a future version, since I put my straps a bit too close together so they had to be pinned to my evening gown to prevent them from showing.  Alterations for this pattern are very figure specific, and it will probably not fit the same two people the same way (it would really be impossible to make a pattern like this that would fit everyone) and the patternmaker was very thoughtful in her instructions for what sorts  of alterations might be needed.  As long as you take into account, like most patterns, that it will probably not fit straight out of the envelope, it is a fantastic little pattern and I very highly recommend it.

Conclusion: Really great pattern! I highly recommend it, especially for smaller ladies who do not want or need to wear the full stays.

Other notes:

I was asked about comparing these to long stays. I think it depends on the person, and their preferences, but for me, I much prefer them.  These are designed to still give you good posture, but leave the stomach free and you are also free from the front busk, which I found very uncomfortable in my long stays when sitting for long periods of time.  I live a few hours away from most events, but I Could actually wear these in the car with little discomfort.  Since I have poor posture in day-to-day life I did find that my shoulders ached by the time I got home from being pulled back into their proper position.  I have heard that these are not well suited to larger ladies, or larger busted ladies, and they may prefer to wear full stays instead of short stays.

I was also asked about comparing these to a modern bra.  I would not recommend this in place of a modern bra, simply because the silhouette, while great for Regency, does not seem like it would fit well under modern clothing.   The short stays force the bust up higher than the natural bustline, and modern clothing is designed to fit more at the natural bust.   I also find that they sort of smooth the shape at the underbust due to the gores (in a V shape), instead of rounding out like a more modern silhouette.  For Regency wear, however, I wholly recommend these as they will help obtain the period silhouette.  For those who are smaller busted, if these are fitted correctly, you can even add a little bit of padding inside. Be sure you have them fitted snugly, however, or stitch in the padding, so it doesn’t go skittering across the dance floor

I also should say that my stays are not laced in a period correct way.  If they were accurate they would be spiral laced.  And sorry for my sloppy eyelet holes. I decided to do them with a buttonhole stitch, and I found my technique greatly improved from the time I began the first until I finished the last. Oops? Maybe next time they’ll be more uniform and I’ll learn the real way to stitch eyelets.

Disclaimer:  I purchased this pattern on my own and was not compensated in any way for a pattern review.  All of the information I shared is my own personal honest opinion of this sewing pattern.

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I made my husband’s outfit (with exception of the trousers, which were bought from Jas. Townsend) several years ago to wear to the Jane Austen Evening dance, and more photos of it can be found here.  I made the dotted swiss dress (more info here) to wear to Costume College several years ago, at the same time as the hat (more info here), and made the spencer jacket to wear to another outing to the Maritime Museum (more photos here).

After the outing we had to say goodbye to friends and the Regency weekend was over, but my husband and I changed and then went out for a nice Sunday Roast at the Princess Pub in San Diego.  Mmm… yummy food and a big pot of tea was a nice way to end a lovely weekend.

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Here’s our little group shot.  Some of the ladies have blogs, including Beth at V is for Vintage, Katherine at The Fashionable Past, and Loren at The Costumer’s Closet.  If any of the other ladies pictured have blogs they would like linked, please let me know and I’ll edit the post to add them

I wore the same dress I wore last year, but I decided to add a nice shiny trim under the bust and created a new turban hat.  I also got to wear my newly finished short stays- and I must admit I’m a convert! I love short stays and if possible won’t go back to full stays!

My friend, Vanessa, made this scrumptious gown styled after one in the Napoleon and the Empire of Fashion book.  She even hand attached all those pretty spangles and appliques!

I love this photo with Katherine and Beth. I wish I had gotten better photographs of their gorgeous dresses.  Katherine hand embroidered her lovely white gown (and sewed it all by hand), and Beth based hers on one from the Napoleon and the Empire of Fashion book. I love the trim and the cameos, and all the lovely ruffles.  Hopefully they will both post yummy shots on their blogs for us to drool over.

My poor hubby got sick so wasn’t able to attend, but we visiting the San Diego Maritime Museum the next day so we got to extend our dress up fun for an additional day.  Pictures forthcoming…

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Although I know many people into vintage style think of the late 1960′s/1970′s as a horrible time period, I would have to disagree to an extent.  Even if the fashions or the emerging new perception of society values at that time were not your thing (and I’m by no means up to date on the social changed of the 1970s, so I am not going to go into depth on a subject which I have little to no knowledge of), I know that at this time there was a resurgence of the lost arts and return to some of the earlier ways of both self-sustained living (like homesteading and living on your own using old techniques), and lost handcrafts (like weaving and a renewal in interest in the Renaissance and Victorian type arts and dying).  I am thankful that there was this revival then.  I think back just over the years I’ve been interested in vintage clothing and sewing, and think of how few people of the World War II generation there are left to actually speak to, and then think if I had started research into the past some 20+ years earlier… certainly there were more of the older generation around to learn from, and in turn we have forms of those arts today passed down through those who were interested a generation or two before us.

Just in the short time span since I graduated from fashion school (it will be 10 years ago this year, but that’s a story for another post), if I compare what I learned in school and how I learned it to that of a young lady friend who just graduated from the same school, the results are quite interesting.  While we did most things by hand, with computer drawing of flats and illustrations as optional for our final project and a lot of people still doing hand graded patterns, etc, and many of the people not familiar with computers in the classes I was taking, it’s now common to do many things by computers.  I am in no means lamenting the rise of the computer- in various job fields it makes our work much faster and makes a lot of things more crisp and clean- but thinking of this, combined with, as I said above, the easy to come by cheap goods needed for necessities, it’s not a surprise that working with your hands to create something or repair something are now considered optional in many cases.  Most of our entertainment comes in the form of something you view on screen.  Tv, movies, the internet, etc. I’m by no means immune to that and am not saying it’s a bad thing at all, I just enjoy a little bit of balance between the virtual and the tangible.

I have heard so many people lament the fact that they’re not creative, would love to learn to sew or craft but aren’t good with their hands, etc.  In some ways I think it’s a result of not being trained at an early age to be able to work with our hands.  I was one of the last groups of kids in junior high who was required to take Home Economics. I was HORRIBLE.  I could barely sew a straight line (my cousin, who was really a key leader in my early interest in handcrafts and history, taught me hand sewing and crafts much before I learned about sewing on machines). But it really opened up my mind to the fact that I *could* make things in a relatively speedy way.  I’m not saying that everyone takes to sewing, or any other craft for that matter, I’m just saying that practice in doing something helps us to be able to do it better.  So many of our crafts come pre-packaged today from leading craft stores that all we really need to do is cut something out and stitch or glue it together.  I *love* the fact that there is a growing interest in creating something from what are, essentially, basic materials.  In the case of sewing, we may not be weaving and dying our own fibres, but we can take basic yard goods and, with a little ingenuity and some work, create a garment we can wear or use as a household item or gift.  Often times, these days, the cost of creating these garments is far more expensive than the cost of buying ready made (for cheaper options check out my previous post on Sewing on a Budget), but we have the satisfaction of knowing that we created it ourselves, from our own hands, keeping the tradition alive of making objects on our own.

So that’s about it. I would really encourage you to try your hand at some sort of arts or crafts, if you’re not already involved in some way.  The first try may be frustrating, but think of it as a learning process.  I think it’s a wonderful thing to keep traditional handcrafts alive, and personally would love to try my hand at countless things I’ve never done before- even if I find they’re not for me.  Dying, weaving, bobbin lace making, wood carving, sewing, building furniture or other useful objects- there’s so many options out there and we should try to track them down before we don’t have anyone left to learn from. You just might find out it’s a lot of fun!  And if you don’t like it, at least you tried

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I’m working on making up my first pair of Regency short stays.  Short stays are basically a Regency equivalent of a push up bra.  You could either wear full length stays (corset) or wear one of these.  I have made two pairs of full length stays, but my last pair don’t quite fit as they did when I made them so I thought it was time to try out a pair of short stays.

Now, I’m giving a disclaimer.  I’m not doing these in the period correct way. They’re not hand sewn, and instead of using period fabrics I’m using two layers of cotton coutil (what you usually make Victorian corsets out of).  I’m also doing guerrilla cording (not the correct way at all), and pretty much all of this is the “quick, let’s make a set of short stays in three days even though we’ve never made them before” project.  We, as in  me and my sewing machine (or fancy pants “we” as in Queen Victoria.  It’s much too early to put much thought into writing since I have not had my tea and stayed up til 1am sewing, so I’ll write long run-on sentences instead explaining why I don’t want to go back and edit them and make silly excuses that are probably of no interest to my readers. So there).

Since this is a last-minute project, I tried my first real pattern e-download.  This is from Sense and Sensibility’s Regency Underthings pattern.  Now, I’m telling you, I am a straight up old fashioned paper pattern girl.  I thought I would never even consider buying an e-pattern.  But when the prospect was before me of actually using the Simplicity version I bought of this and putting the extra time to figure out what ease they added to it, or getting the e-download and saving me some extra headache, I chose the download.  Ideally I would have used the paper pattern from Sense and Sensibility, but I didn’t have the foresight to order it ahead or the time to wait for it in the mail.  I will admit, now that I’ve tried them, that downloads are not my thing.  I spent entirely too much time taping together pieces. I’m sure, if I had actually watched the videos she linked to in the email I would  have saved myself the headache of trying to match together pieces (though my printer threw them out of order anyways.. oh, that dreaded sound of paper maneuvering itself out of order in the print tray…), and if I was smart I would have had the foresight to print the stays only, instead of the ENTIRE pattern and wasted paper.  I wasn’t that smart.  Don’t be like me. Do what the pattern says to do and watch her videos and read the instructions.

Actually, now that I’m writing it, this entire sewing project seems to be a “oh, duh” sort of project.  Do you ever have projects like that? You start with the best of intentions but your brain only running at half mast, and create all sorts of problems for yourself that could have been easily avoided?  I usually do that when I’m on a time crunch, or after I’ve completed a series of really good sewing projects. When the brain SHOULD be probably focused, that’s when I foul up.  And I admit I seldom read instructions, as I usually work through any issues in the mock up stage. But if I had done THAT properly, I would have realized that not only did I put the straps on facing the wrong direction (and would, therefore, have probably not had to “fix” them as much), but should have paid attention to my mock up fabric, which ended up having too loose of a weave and stretched on me when I put it on.  No WONDER the mock up fit so well! It was stretching to fit me!  So much for saving fabric from the pile of “to get rid of” fabrics. That glaring orange should have been my warning sign.  All of my kooky problems aside, I only had to do a few changes to this.

Now, when I was thinking of starting this project I scoured online for pictures and reviews and blog posts and found actually very few.  Since these patterns are hugely popular I thought there would be many more reviews online, so, since I thought this and found few, that’s why I’m writing my post.

The alterations to this pattern are VERY figure specific.  Obviously, no pattern will fit the same for all people, but when you get to undergarments it gets even trickier.  Think of all the problems you have shopping for bras (or maybe you’re lucky and don’t, but I certainly do).  In fact, a friend and I were talking about this project.  After I did my mock up and pattern changes I relayed my changes and she relayed her. By sight we’re really NOT that different.  We pretty much wear the same size clothing, or very close to the same size, but our changes with the pattern were night and day different.  So, that being said, it is very hard for me to give watch points or change guidelines for this pattern, but I will relay the changes I made for me.

First of all, I found this too broad in the back, so I took in the back width one inch.  I also took in the width of the shoulder strap 1/2″, lowered the neckline at front by 3/4″ (to hit lower, as I have heard that is more flattering to small bust-lines), and altered the angle of the straps (probably entirely my fault, as relayed above).  I also decided to make the back scooped, instead of square, especially after reading Beth’s blog post on her research for her stays.  Even with my changes, some were not accurate, since, as I said, I made a poor choice of mock up fabric. This pattern has choices of gussets depending on your bust size.  I had read a review online that suggested selecting one size smaller for the gussets, and since I’m borderline sizes I went with the A.  BUT, since my mock up was stretchy, after I actually got my gussets in my coutil and tried it on, they did not fit right and were too small.  They all got ripped out and replaces with the size B gussets, which fit much better.  I want to say that I’m thankful for the options in bust sizes!  Often times patterns are only available in a certain range, and I’m glad she had us smaller girls covered in this pattern.

Another issue I’ve been reading online has to do with the “spring” at the front lacing. If you are unfamiliar with corsets or stays you probably have not heard the term, but it is an intentional gap left for comfort, and, I’m sure, other really good reasons.  I fit mine to have a 1 1/2″ to 2″ “spring”.  Nearly all the photos I’ve seen online do not have this, and butt up right next to each other, or have a very little spring. I’m not sure if I’m doing it correctly this way- I’ll have to get back to you after they’ve had a “test run”, but I thought it would be more comfortable and I remember seeing an engraving from around the same period of a lady in short stays and she had the “spring” in front of about an equivalent of that size. In fact, you can see the image on Kalen Hughes site, here.

The cording I added on my own. It’s a little messy, so don’t mind me.  I used the Sugar n’ Cream cotton yarn for cording and butted it right up to my zipper foot and sewed in instead of pulling it though channels (which is probably why it’s so NOT uniform).  I made it up after seeing various versions online.  I also forgot to mention that I decided to add 1/2″ seam allowance to the center front of this so that I could turn back the stays on themselves and sandwich my boning at my front edge instead of making a separate bound casing.  I still have to put in the boning, work my eyelets, and bind the stays, but they’re getting there!  I really wish I had paid more attention to my mock up, as my gussets are a bit off now, but for a first try they’re not half bad.

I’ve never been one to have patience with period undergarments (other than frilly Edwardian lovelies).  I usually need AT LEAST one try before I figure out why they work the way they do or why I need to change things.  I’m actually quite proud of myself for starting these when there is not either a class or sew-a-long, as I have little dedication to sewing period undergarments. I love seeing other people’s versions of them but don’t like sewing them much myself.  These I actually did have fun with, especially the cording.

So there she is… a near self-induced sewing disaster, but for some odd reason I’m actually a little proud of them   This is actually a really great little pattern.  I loved the pattern and will certainly be making it up again in the future.

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I’m really interested in the title. I’ve seen debate over the last few months of the proper term for those who enjoy sewing.  Stitcher, seamstresses, seamsters, sewists, or sewers, among others. I find it interesting that they unhesitatingly use the term “sewers”.  English is such a funny language sometimes.  Both those who sew and a place to gather muck are called sewers, though pronouced differently!

Click on either image for a larger version to read or save.

The parts I particularly agree with are:

“Inexperienced sewers are often discouraged because dressmaking takes so much time; and that sewing is tedious work, nobody can deny.  But, as in everything else, there is an easy and hard way to do things.  Sometimes we learn to avoid the hard things by our own experience.  Sometimes that of others helps us a little.”

“If the sewer is a novice and not sure of the pattern to be used, it is well to cut it first from some old material, and be sure that it fits, before cutting into new goods.”  I would venture so far as to say it’s a good idea every time, especially if you’re doing different time periods, working with vintage patterns or reproductions, or a company you’re not familiar with.

Some of the sections I found most interesting were having to do with sleeves. Our perspective on sleeves has certainly changed over the last century or less.  The fit and construction is so very different than it was one hundred years ago.  Here are some bits I found particularly interesting, as it dealt with fit, construction, and even the way patterns were different:

“Unless you are using one of the new patterns with large armholes, make the arm size as tight as it can be worn with perfect comfort.  It if it too tight, ease it by making short slits under the arm and front toward the bust, with the point of the shears, until the wearer is comforatable.  After the sleeves are basted in, the seams may be trimmed down as much as necessary, and there will be no danger of making the arm size too large.  If the neck is too snug it may be treated in the same manner.  The only thing to remember is, that a very tiny slit is often all that is necessary to ease the throat or arm.”  Obviously, this would be done in the mock up stage.

“Sleeves seem to be the most crucial point to many amateur dressmakers.  A lady came to me one day and asked me to criticize the sleeves in her shirt waist.  ‘I don’t suppose for a minute that they are right,’ she said.  ‘It always takes me two days to get in a pair of sleeves satisfactorily, and these have only been basted in once.’  There was not much out of the way, and it was remedied at once.

Naturally it is much more difficult to help people generally than it is individually, as no pattern fits any two figures in exactly the same way.  There are some few directions, however, that are always helpful if properly carried out.  When trying on the waist before the sleeves are in, mark the very center of the top of the shoulder with a pin or notch or thread as is most convenient.  The sleeves should also be marked on the center top and have two rows of shirring run between the notches, as pattern directs.  Place under-arm seam of sleeve about two or two and a half inches forward of the under-arm seam in the waist.  Then bring shoulder marks on waist and sleeve-top together.  Make gathers cover a space from five to seven inches, laying them closest on top of shoulder, and gradually spreading them two and a half to three and a half inched back and front.”

I find it really interesting how the basic sleeve draft has changed!  This is an interesting “between” stage between Victorian and more modern sleeves.  By the 1930s the underarm seam of the sleeve matches the underarm seam of the bodice, like sleeves today.  In the earlier periods these two seams did not match.  I have been working on redrafting a 1910s bodice and I found this to be the case and was extremely interested in it (I knew the seams did not match in Victorian clothing but was not aware of this in-between stage of sleeves), so am very interested to read more about it in this article.

On the second page, the bit about the unlined skirt hem with braid has me a bit confused.  It mentions using a card inside the hem to get it properly done. If anyone is familiar with this technique, please let me know, as I can’t quite wrap my mind around it without more illustrations.  I find the mention of “milliners fold” on the second page quite interesting, too.  It kind of sounds like modern bias tape!  If anyone knows about that, please let me know, too!

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American Duchess brings us the newest of her shoe line, these gorgeous Edwardian shoes in ivory and black leather.

Check out the great cross over straps!  These are definitely on my “must have” list.  She’s opening up pre-orders on Monday for a discounted price.

For more photos and info visit the American Duchess blog and Website.

All images are property of American Duchess. I am not paid or compensated in any way for posting them on my blog, I just want to share the shoe love!

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