Apologies for the lack of posts lately.  As you know, I’ve needed to take a break from the blog and shop for a while.  While I mostly post about vintage and costume related fashion and history on this blog, I wanted to take just a moment for a bit of a more personal, “real life” post.

I have noticed several bloggers have been much more open about their personal challenges and struggles as of late.  I think this takes a tremendous amount of courage, and I applaud their openness and frankness.

I feel a big shift in my life at present.  I know this place is for fun stuff, where I post things that inspire and create, but I am going to take a moment, in frankness, to talk about other “inspiration.”

Usually we are our own worst critics, and in a place like the blogging world, where many different people often meet and correspond in some form or another- be it commenting, posting, etc, we can sometimes feel a sort of pressure or expectation- whether implied in verbal form, or self imposed.  I want to take a moment to just express my personal thoughts on that matter.

We all come from various walks of life- some who read this blog may have little to no interaction with a “community” of those who do history, vintage, or costuming.  Some have come from other avenues- gothic, punk, etc, some from re-enacting, sewing, costuming, vintage.  Some way or another we all stumble across blogs and communities where we find others who share these interests.  For one reason or another, many of us come out of another sort of life- whether we were modern and found vintage or historic costuming through a friend on online forum, whether we fell into another subculture entirely.  I want to express my sincerest desire that no one would judge themselves or another based on interest or appearance alone.  I strongly feel that no matter our current perspective on clothing, culture, or interest, that we should be kind and accepting.  I do not believe there should be tiers of how strongly we are involved in a scene or interest.  That said, here are a few things that I, personally, have learned and am continuing to learn, and apply to my personal life.  Perhaps you do not struggle in the same areas I do- all of us have our own personal challenges, but I would like to offer hugs and prayers to those who are struggling in some point in their lives at present- whether emotional, physical, or other.

So that said, here are my top things to do for health and happiness.

1- Eat regularly and healthy.  This is a challenging subject for many, since there are so many different perspectives on food and such.  I have to make very clear, my view of this has nothing whatsoever to do with weight, dieting, etc.  I just find I need a breakfast before starting daily activity, preferably some sort of fresh fruit or juice and protein.  I’m also trying to stay away from foods with a lot of artificial preservatives.  When I keep diligent, that’s when I feel my best.

2- Seek doctor’s care.  If you’re not feeling well, don’t put off going to the doctor.  Fear of expense or of what they will say is much worse when put off than if you go at first.  It could be something simple that makes you feel poorly- and going earlier will help prevent something bigger later on often times.  This applies to mental health as well- be honest with where you are, and do not be afraid to seek help and get emotional support of friends.

3- Step back from all engulfing hobbies, and try to limit your work time to when you are at work.  We all need healthy balance in our lives.  If you find you wake up and go to sleep thinking of the same thing, not only can your loved ones be neglected, but you’re often neglecting your essential needs.  Do not be so “driven” that you forget the things you need for a healthy, happy life- including giving yourself some down time, where you can do nothing- even if it’s just 10 minutes squeezed in here and there.

4- Try to spend a little bit of time outside every day.  I realize that this is not possible for everyone, but if you can, spend some time outside, even if it’s just sitting in a chair in the sun (or shade) reading a book or drinking a cup of tea.  The outdoors does wonders for your health and mood.

5- This is perhaps a harder one, but try to step back from unhealthy relationships.  Be realistic in your expectations of your friends and family, and remember that it is equally important to give and to receive.  Also, if you find yourself being overly critical of people (either other people or yourself)- give yourself a “heart check.”  Remember, no one is perfect, and focus on the positive of your qualities and the qualities of the people around you.  I know we’re surrounded by fashion critics (both those we know and in the media), but remember- clothes are not as important as people. Period. I’ve also found that we can get into unhealthy relationships with ourselves.  Don’t be too hard on yourself. Easier said than done, but remember that YOU have a purpose, whether or not you’re aware of it yet.

6- Remember, there is a difference between “constructive criticism” and “destructive criticism”, and for every bad thing someone may say, there’s often more than double the good.  I think online communities are so terrible about tearing each other down.  Ignore the negative, focus on the good things people have to say about you and what you do.  This is true of others as well.  Be more interested in the good things happening than the gossip and negativity.  Drama is bad news- try to steer clear of it, even if it’s a “morbid curiosity”.  For people who are very self driven, criticism can strike a hard blow- especially since we are often acutely aware of the problems ourselves.  And don’t forget Thumper- “If you don’t have something nice to say, don’t say nothing at all.”

7-  Try to spend some time thinking of nothing but a higher purpose.  I realize that not everyone feels this way, but for me some prayer and meditation on my faith helps me to realign my world view.  We humans are funny creatures- we often put ourselves and our feelings at the center of our world.  Take a moment every day to think of the grand scope of things.  Every person through time has had their equal share of challenges and triumphs.  Set aside the self and focus on other things.  For me, this is best done outside. Seeing nature and the big sky reminds you of how large the world really is, and while we each have a role to play, try to spend some time dwelling on the glory of creation rather than the internal.

8- Beauty is most wonderful when it comes from the inside.  Dressing up and clothing are great fun (that’s why I started this blog), but let your outside shine from the beauty you have inside, rather than dressing one way and expecting that to transform you.  I think the current ideas of beauty are somewhat backwards, personally.  Many think that you dress your best makes you feel your best- but remember, you are equally you in sweat pants and a pony tail as you are in a gorgeous dress with your hair all done up.  Find your personal beauty inside of yourself- clothing should just be an accessory to what you already ARE- and happiness inside is the best portrayal of the self- far above clothing.  By all means, dress how you like, but remember the old adage that “clothes do not make the man.”

9- Explore new possibilities in the world.  There are lots of things out there to be interested in, and if something interests you, learn more about it.  I’m currently learning more about gardening and I absolutely love it. It gets me outside, I spend time caring for living things, and it is fun and interesting to have something new to learn about.  I’m also reading about the history of the English cottage.  Both of these have little to nothing to do with historic fashion, which has been my main interest since I can remember.  And you know what? It’s REFRESHING to have something new to do and learn about.  Don’t worry if you don’t know anyone else that is interested, or knows how.  We have so many learning tools out there now with the internet and books, etc, and it’s fun to find a hobby you can do on your own, or find a way to meet new friends.

10-  Be an individual, but remember the world is composed of MANY individuals, and they are all equally important.  In the bible, it says “A new command I give you: Love one another. As I have loved you, so you must love one another.” (John 13:34).  I love this verse.  It doesn’t say “Just love others who look like you.” or “love others who think like you” or “love others if they love you back.”  Remember, every single person you interact with is an individual with problems of their own, lives of their own, and loves of their own.  Treat others as you would like to be treated, even if they don’t return it.  And by love, I don’t mean romantic or emotional love, but active love and kindness.  Who knows, that lady at the post office may really be having a wretched day.   You may be irritated to be in line, but think of having to deal with a never-ending line of irritated customers.  Smile, love on people whether or not you’re of the same mind, background, thoughts, or whether the like you back.  It’s amazing what it will do for morale.

So that’s about it, but I had been wanting to share these thoughts on my blog for a while.  I realize that everyone is different and has different takes on everything, but these are my personal thoughts.  Now, go encourage each other, and love on yourself. Remember, there is a difference between taking care of yourself and being selfish (should that have been #11?), so don’t forget to nourish your body and soul so you can, in turn, do the same for others.  We cannot give much from an empty vessel.

Have a blessed week.

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Thanks for your understanding.

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I’ve been puttering away on an 1870s bustle ensemble using green, peach, and plaid.  Here’s a little peek- the ruffles and trim are just pinned on right now. I’m using the Truly Victorian Parisian Trained Skirt pattern. I’ve made a skirt from this pattern once before and really love it.

I’ve been spending some time outside playing with flowers and reading.  I’m still making it through the Anne of Green Gables books and am about halfway done with Rainbow Valley.  I love L.M. Montgomery’s books. Reading them is like visiting with old friends.

The Aloha rose is a new addition to our garden. I’m waiting impatiently for the bloom to open!

Hope you are having a beautiful week.

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Just a quick note to let you know I’ll be taking a bit of a break this week, so the Etsy shop and website will be closed for a bit.

The photo above was taken in our garden this last week, where I’m attempting to learn to properly care for the roses.

I may be checking in on the blog with some more fun vintage-y posts or inspiration during the week.  But if not, have a lovely week, everyone!

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Unfortunately, I wasn’t sure if I was allowed to bring a camera in to the show (and it turns out I could have- will remember next time!), but I had my husband snap a few shots of my outfit when we got home.

It was quite rainy outside and a little chilly inside the building that the show was held, so on top of this outfit I had a vintage jacket from the 1910s.  I had been feeling poorly this week so wanted to make sure to keep warm! I do have some photos with the jacket and I will try to post those later.

The blouse I wore was vintage from the 1910s era- cotton with lovely pink polka dots and cotton net collar edged in bias of the polka dot fabric.  The sash was made of about a yard of silk remnants I had in my stash.  The skirt was made from an original 1910s sewing pattern, which was quite a puzzle to figure out- Beth and I recently found it at a flea market and the poor thing had most of the illustration missing and was a mystery size.  The shoes were thrifted and I added vintage buckles to them when I wore them for my wedding a few years ago.  I made the hat by using old placemats and taking them apart for the braid and hand attaching them to each other using a base from a 1909 pattern reprint for a brim and then decorated it with vintage silk from an estate sale and new silk flowers from a craft store and new feathers.

Many thanks to Mari for letting us take part in the walk-a-bout at the antique show!  It was a nice afternoon spent dressed up with friends.

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John Jacob Astor was known to be the most wealthy passenger on the Titanic, and was bound for home from his honeymoon with his new (much younger) wife, Madeline.  At the time of their marriage he was 47 and she was 18, and their marriage was quite a topic of gossip in their day.  John Jacob Astor would not survive the sinking of the Titanic, but his wife did and did give birth to the child.  This article from McCall’s Magazine from 1913 takes a peek into Madeline and her baby’s lives.

The article does not go into detail of the event of the sinking of the Titanic, but it does say the following, and tell of how it impacted the lives of Madeline and the baby:

“The details of the terrible night of April 14 are too fresh in everyone’s memory to need repetition here.  Colonel and Mrs. Astor were in their stateroom when the crash came.  They dressed leisurely and went on deck, where Colonel Astor lifted his wife into a lifeboat, kissing her tenderly, and saying, “Don’t worry, dear, all will be well.

Mercifully, she did not know, during those cold, rain-soaked hours until the ‘Carpathia’ came, that the supply of lifeboats had been criminally inadequate, and that her husband had been one of the 1,475 who went to the bottom.  Her maid was with her, and she saved her tiny toy Pomeranian.”

I will let you read the rest of the article for yourself, as I think you will find it quite interesting to hear a little bit of what happened to these survivors.  Click on any of the images for a larger version that you can read.

You can read more about Madeline Talmage Astor at these links:

Wikipedia

Encyclopedia Titanic

And John Jacob Astor VI (The Astor Baby) on Wikipedia

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Recently I took advantage of a good pattern sale and picked up several modern dress patterns from Simplicity that I had my eye on. I just finished up this one from Simplicity 1872, from their Cynthia Rowley collection, and wore it yesterday.

The pattern itself if quite easy to sew- I would guess a beginner could sew this with little difficulty, especially since it is a slip on dress with no closures.  The most challenging part of the dress for me was the sizing.  I always have trouble picking a size for modern patterns by the large companies because so much ease is included.  I usually go by finished measurements on the back of the envelope when selecting size, being sure to factor in ease, but this pattern had the finished bust measurement for the size I usually am about six inches larger than my actual measure.  I then did the flat measurements of the waistline of the pattern pieces themselves (subtracting the seam allowances, of course), and since this was a dress to go on over the head I made sure the size I cut would have enough ease to go on over my shoulders and bust.  In the end I cut one size smaller than the size indicated on the envelope, but I most likely could have cut two sizes smaller with no problem, as I did have to take it in a little more when I did my muslin.  So, that being said, the  most challenging part was figuring out what size would work for me- the rest of the sewing on this was a breeze.

The only changes I had to make were what probably are to become standard alterations for me when using modern patterns.  This is the second modern pattern from a large company I have sewn in the last six months or so, and I found with both patterns (one McCall, one Simplicity), that I had gaping at the back armscye, which doesn’t happen for me with vintage patterns for the most part.  I also had to shorten the bodice length since I am short waisted.  The other change I made was based on preference- instead of doing a little hem at the bottom by machine I did a three thread rolled hem on my serger.  This dress is already much shorter than what I usually wear, so that extra little 1/4″ length was something- plus I was lazy and didn’t want to do a curved hem

In the end I can say I do really think the dress is cute and fun to wear.  If I make it again I will probably lengthen the skirt a bit on each ruffle as it is quite shorter than I usually feel comfortable wearing.  There is a bit of gap-o-sis at the front, so I will add a little tack there (I used a safety pin), and I did wear a cami underneath since it was lower cut than I usually wear.  I would also probably add some elastic at the waist, as the original design calls for the dress to be belted in, which makes the gathering somewhat uneven, especially when you’re moving about- I had to keep repositioning my gathers.

The fabric I used for the dress was a vintage 60s/70s synthetic I thrifted, and the belt I’m wearing it with is vintage.  I have the tie belt all cut out, but I liked the green buckle so much with the dress that I decided to wear it this way instead!  The cost of the dress was quite low since the pattern was on sale for 99 cents and the fabric was only $6!

I know I’m being a total nerd in the photos, but it was such a nice sunny day and the field was so full of flowers- it made me happy

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The fashionable materials for this Easter’s hats and bonnets are chip, manilla, Leghorn, Neapolitan, Madagascar and English straw, and all the straw braids, especially those imitating satin.  Black velvet is largely used for trimming with moiré and stain ribbons, deftly looped.  Ostrich tips and long feathers are in vogue, though flowers are given preference over everything.  The big Parma violets, as well as the enormous roses and poppies that were so generally used last season, continue to obtain, while camellias, tuberoses, white lilies, lilies-of-the-valley, blue hortensias, ragged robins and primroses are counted as quite new.

An extremely smart little bonnet (no. 1) is made of dull red straw, the front being turned back, exposing the hair, somewhat after the fashion of a Scotch cap.  Very slightly to one side of the front is a bunch of black ostrich plumes, caught in place by a Rhinestone clasp.  The simplicity of this bonnet is its special charm, while its style is cited to show that the woman who looks best when her hat is off her face has been considered.  A little bonnet (No. 2), which may or may not have ties, has a small frame covered with a drapery of white satin embroidered with jet, turquoises, and silver spangles.  It is raised on the left side and decorated with pink camellias and one large black silk poppy.

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One of the prettiest of the large hats (No. 3) is made of pale  lavender satin braid, so wrought that it has a rather square crown, and a broad, but soft, brim curving up at each side.  It is trimmed about the crown with a twist of black velvet, and from the front, and falling over the crown in artistic disorder, is an enormous bunch of cock’s feathers.  Under the brim at the back are black velvet loops.  A smart chapeau (No. 4) has a Napoleonic look it is made of black chip, and fitted carefully to the head before it is trimmed.  On one side is a knot of dull poppy velvet, cleverly twisted so that it looks almost like a flower; on the other is a high bunch of lilies-of-the-valley, which stands up in aigrette fashion and is clasped under a jeweled ornament.

The large hat (No. 5), which looks more elaborate than it really is, is of pale gray chip, with a broad brim and a rather high crown.  Starting from under a buckle of Rhinestones at one side are two ostrich plumes which fairly encircle the crown;  the brim is turned up at the back, and on each side are two knots of gray satin ribbon, with a clasp of Rhinestones between them.  A flower-trimmed hat (No. 6),  which is in reality the ever-popular sailor shape, is made of English braid.  The stiff brim is bound with black velvet, and about the crown are two narrow bands of the velvet.  Coming up from the back and directly over the crown is a high,  full cluster of jacinths.  The brim of the hat is slightly raised at the back, with a band of the flowers under it, resting upon the hair.

A particularly pretty bonnet (No. 7) for the woman who likes her capote to have ties to it is here shown.  It is small and of red straw.  In front poppies are artistically arranged, while at the back, placed so that it shows well from the front, is a high pompon of black lace, fastened in place by a paste jewel;  the ties are red watered ribbon.  A bonnet of this style may be developed in any colors that are fancied, and roses may be substituted for the poppies; or, if preferred, the bonnet itself may be black and the poppies in contrast.
Another bonnet (No. with strings is also illustrated.  It is a Dutch cap in shape, and made of the yellow straw braid which was seen last season, and which, it is more than probably, will be greatly liked this year.  The edge is draped with garnet-colored velvet, which droops down at the back, forming the ties.  In front are fans of fine black lace, which seems to surround a large spray of dark red roses and their foliage; at the back are loops of lace, and between them a bandeau of rosebuds with their delicate leaves.

After allowing one to look at some pretty bonnets the clever millinery distracts attention by showing a hat like No. 9.  It is made of shiny straw braid of a lovely soft green;  the turban crown is of mauve satin, while from the back there come up, high above the crown, loops of satin of the same shade, and big white chrysanthemums.  Another hat (No. 10) forces one to recognize the popularity of violet.  It is made of violet raphia, and has a square crown, and a thick-looking brim, which is, however, light in weight because it is hollow; it is decorated with loops of pale mauve satin just in front, with loops of pale green satin at the back, and from the back on to the crown comes a bunch of white silk poppies.

A simpler hat (No. 11), one intended to be worn well over the face, is of fine black straw, trimmed with bands of black satin ribbon about the crown, which end in loops under small steel buckles in front.  Frills of black lace are on one side and black plumes on the other.  The side trimmed with plumes has the brim slightly raised, and under it is a garland of small flowers.  The contrast of feathers and flowers i well shown not only in this hat but also in No. 12,  which is made of black chip, has a straight, broad brim faced with pale pink chip, and medium high crown.  The lower part of the crown is circled with black ostrich tips, and the upper with shaded pink poppies.  At one side are loops of fine pink ribbon, which, before being looped, have been shirred on invisible wire, so that they have a feathery look.
A French critic has said: “The American women long ago determined to become beautiful, and they have devoted to this aim more systematic and hygienic training than any other nation has ever thought of, and they have been marvelously successful.”
Speaking of fashions he goes on to tell how the American woman unconsciously takes the best of the French fashions because they have a distinct individuality.  The French millinery studies each woman; and the American woman, as no other woman has done, appreciates that the best compliment that a French milliner can pay to a bonnet when she says, “Il est très coiffant,” meaning that the bonnet is not only adapted to the woman, but so well suited to her hair and head as to form a satisfactory whole.
It is not so long ago since millinery bought their straw hats and trimmed them, but nowadays the clever milliner makes to order bonnets or hats to suit the special requirements of her customers, to each one of whom she gives an individuality.

As an aside, I need to make more use of phrase “artistic disorder”.  How apt a description! And don’t some of these hats remind you of that the Pratt sisters wear in Lark Rise to Candleford?

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French seams are a great seam finish and the technique is quite old-  most of the original lingerie blouses and dresses I have seen from the Edwardian period have this finish for their seams.  I’ve seen it on the inside of lovely sheer chiffon 1920s and 1930s garments, and it is still used today on fine fabrics and sheers where you want a nice clean finish on the inside but don’t want the fabrics to ravel and don’t want an overlock stitch visible through the sheer.

You will need:

• A sharp machine sewing needle (especially if using delicate or lightweight fabrics)
• scissors
• Good quality thread
• a sewing machine (a basic straight stitch will do)
• And, of course, your fabric. I do suggest trying this out on scraps before starting a final garment to make sure you understand technique.  Using fabrics with a print are helpful when learning this technique, as it is done by alternating stitching on right and wrong side of the fabric.

Just to clarify, for those new to sewing, the “right side” of the fabric is the side with the print or the side which should be visible when worn.  The “wrong side” of the fabric is the side which will be next to your skin and invisible when worn.  This is also called the “outside” or the “inside”, especially in vintage instructions.

For this tutorial we are using 1/2″ total seam allowance, which is what I use in most of my patterns.  Since French seams are completed in two basic stitches, we will divide that number in half, and each seam will be 1/4″ from the edge of the garment. It will make more sense as you read below:

1-  On the RIGHT SIDE of the fabric (fabric layered wrong side to wrong side), stitch 1/4″ from the edge.  I use a special 1/4″ foot for my sewing machine when doing this step, as I can just line up the seam allowance with the edge of my foot.  Be sure to be accurate with your seam, as using a smaller or larger seam allowance will cause pieces not to line up correctly when finished.

2- Trim your seam allowance to approximately 1/8″.  I usually eye half of the width and trim it away.  This is an important step, as it will prevent any threads from being visible from the outside of the garment.

3- Open the garment, with the seam allowance still facing up, and press the seam to one side using an iron.

4- Fold your piece right sides together, wrong sides facing outward, sandwiching the seam allowance between them.  Your garment will now be right side to right side (as it is when you sew a basic seam).  The edge you just stitched should be butted right up to the fold, nice and crisp.  Press again to create a nice, crisp, folded edge.

5-  Stitch 1/4″ from the edge.  This stitch encases the seam allowance, and from the outside it looks just like a normal seam. Press your seam, then open your garment and press the seam to one side.  It’s a nice and small and tidy seam on the inside!

As a visual, these photos are re-posted from one of the close up posts of an original garment.  In the first photo you can see the outside of an original 1910s blouse, and on the inside you can see the seam finishes.  Two of the seams in the last image are French seams (not the curved seam, but the others).

Outside detail.  You can faintly see the French seam through the fabric.

Inside detail, with the seam finishes visible.

That’s it!  They’re pretty simple once you get the hang of them, and you’ll find they will probably become one of your favorite seam finishes for delicates or sheers.

I hope you have enjoyed these tutorials and hopefully they will be useful for your sewing creations!

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Attaching Laces to Each Other

When planning a garment you may decide you would like a wider insert- one composed of several pieces of laces attached one to the other. In this tutorial we will learn how to attach straight pieces of lace one to the other.  This can look lovely going down the front of a bodice or used to edge a sleeve, or to create a collar.

You will need:

• A machine that does a zigzag stitch
• Lace.  I recommend using one with a high cotton fibre content, and purchase extra, as I always have an tendency to run out of trims after inspiration strikes!
• Good quality thread
• A new sharp machine sewing needle

We are building upon techniques learned in the last post, so please read that post to help clarify steps if you’re new to these tutorials

1- Prepare your lace as you did in the last post, by carefully hand washing with mild soap, letting it air dry flat, and then using spray starch to give it body.  Figure out your design and, if needed, cut your lace pieces a little bit longer than the finished design (you can always cut it down later and you want to be sure the finished edge will be nice and crisp, not bunchy from where you start your stitching). When attaching laces of a similar design I find it looks best when the designs are lined up.  Here you can see I’m planning the flowers of the two lace strips to attach so that they line up.

2-  Zigzag the two laces together by machine.  The idea is to attach the headers together.  Use a similar zigzag stitch as used when attaching lace to fabric, using a width wide enough to create a sort of “bridge” over the header, encasing the two together, with the needle going down just on either side of the header.  It’s perfectly ok if the needle falls off of your lace edge- in fact, I personally try to make it go on either side of the header-  but be certain your lace pieces are starched and that your machine tension is correct so that they will not get “eaten” by your machine!

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3-  Give your lace a good press.  That’s it!  Now just keep adding lace or insert it into your garment!

4- (Optional)  If using this for a sleeve or collar or neckline, you may wish to add another piece of lace to the end which has a scallop (called lace edging) for a pretty finish.  Give it another press, then attach it to your garment.

Gathering Laces and Attaching Gathered Laces

Supplies needed:

• A machine that does a zigzag stitch
• Heirloom quality laces, such as those imported from France, which have gathering threads in the header.  Cheaper laces generally do not have this, as it is a result of a certain way the laces are manufactured.  As a rule of thumb I always get more lace than I think I will need, as I find that trim seems to disappear quickly once inspiration strikes!
• Good quality thread
• A new sharp machine sewing needle

1- Heirloom quality cotton lace (often called French lace) should have threads in the header which can be used for gathering. The lace pictured here is antique, but it also has these threads.  Very carefully, using your fingernails or a set of tweezers, grab a few of the threads in the header and slowly and carefully ease them from the lace.  Sometimes you may need to grab one thread at a time.

2-  Very slowly and carefully pull these threads to gather, easing the lace with your fingers to slowly gather it a small section at a time. This takes a bit of practice, so have some patience and go slowly, easing the gathers slowly over the length of the piece until the gathers are evenly spaced.  It’s no fun to have those threads snap mid- gather!  I have heard that easing the top most threads is the best, but I couldn’t get those ones to budge on this lace so used the ones that did!  If you do not have a lace which gathers like this you can run hand gathering stitches down the header.  I do find that laces with the threads already in the header work much better, however.

3- Zigzag the gathered lace to the straight lace, using the same technique as used when attaching straight laces to each other, by using the zig zag stitch to attach the laces header to header.  Go very slowly, and be sure your gathers are evenly spaced.

5-  Carefully give it a press along the header (be careful not to press your gathered lace flat) and you’re finished!  Here is a photo of my sample with one edging applied flat and one edging with gathers.

This is the end of the lace tutorials at present.  The next tutorial will be how to sew French seams.

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