Air conditioning is one of the best ways to stay cool on a hot summer day. That’s why staying current with routine maintenance and changing out your air filter every month are so important. Still, even the most dutiful homeowners’ air conditioners can run into problems sometimes. 

If your AC is making water sounds, it could be a sign of trouble. On the other hand, water sounds in your AC can mean your unit is working perfectly. So, how do you tell the difference? It all depends on the type of water noises your air conditioner is making.

Before you call us to schedule an appointment for AC repair, here are three types of water noises your air conditioner might make:

1. Dripping Noises 

Dripping sounds mean your air conditioner is working properly. 

Your air conditioner cools the air in your home in two different ways. One way is by running warm air through a refrigerant to lower its temperature and then returning it to your home. The other way is by removing humidity from that air. Once removed from the air, the humidity becomes condensation and drips water from the AC unit into a pan. 

What should you do about it? 

Go back inside and continue to enjoy your air conditioned home. 

2. Splashing or Running Water Noises

Noises that sound like running water or splashing mean your drip pan may be overflowing. 

When your air conditioning unit is operating properly, the water in the drip pan will either evaporate or be drained out through a condensate drain line. If the water in the drip pan has nowhere to go, the drip pan will start to overflow, which will make a splashing or running water sound. Splashing or running water sounds are typically caused by a blocked condensate drain pipe. When the drain pan is overflowing, there is a risk that the water could leak into your house and cause water damage. 

What should you do about it? 

It is relatively simple to unclog your condensate drain pipe on your own. To unclog your condensate drain pipe:

• Turn off power to the AC unit at both thermostat and circuit breaker
• Locate the drain line exit (typically a PVC pipe outside near the condenser)
• Remove the filter from a wet/dry vacuum
• Create a tight seal between vacuum hose and drain pipe using cloth or duct tape
• Run vacuum on high for 5-6 second intervals (up to one minute total)
• Verify clog removal by pouring water into the access hole and watching it drain

If the process of unclogging your condensate drain pipe is too challenging or if it didn’t work, call us to schedule a repair appointment.  

3. Bubbling or Gurgling Noises

Gurgling or bubbling sounds mean there is a problem with your refrigerant line. 

The warm air from inside your home is cooled, in part, by being exposed to a copper pipe called the refrigerant line. When working properly, this line is airtight. However, if there is a problem with the seal, small amounts of air could get into the refrigerant line. Those form small bubbles in the line, which make a bubbling noise as the refrigerant circulates. 

Another problem that may cause a bubbling or gurgling sound is a leak in the refrigerant line. Depending on how old your air conditioner is, it is possible that this refrigerant leak is a health hazard. If the refrigerant gets low enough, your air conditioning will stop kicking on and it could eventually cause enough damage to require replacing the whole AC unit. 

What should you do about it?

Bubbling and gurgling noises are a strong indicator that you should call us to schedule an AC repair appointment. These sounds suggest refrigerant issues that require professional attention due to serious safety concerns and technical complexity. Refrigerant is a regulated chemical that poses health hazards if improperly handled, requiring specialized equipment and certification for proper repair.

Attempting DIY fixes can lead to more extensive damage, void warranties, and may violate environmental regulations. A certified technician will safely diagnose the exact issue, properly repair any leaks, and ensure your system operates efficiently before minor problems become expensive replacements that could cost thousands more than a timely repair.

4. Hissing Noises

A hissing noise coming from your air conditioner could mean a few different things. But in most cases, it’s the result of a refrigerant leak, which can create a hissing sound as the refrigerant escapes.

Another possibility is that there is some sort of blockage in the system. A clogged refrigerant line can cause the refrigerant to flow unevenly, and a clogged air filter can result in increased air pressure within the unit. This can also lead to a hissing sound.

What should you do about it?

Like those bubbling sounds we discussed earlier, hissing noises shouldn’t be ignored. These sounds often point to refrigerant leaks or blockages that can quickly turn into expensive problems if left unchecked. Remember, refrigerant requires special handling by certified professionals to keep you and your family safe.

We recommend giving us a call right away to inspect your system. Our technicians have the proper equipment to find and fix the issue before it causes more damage to your AC unit. A quick repair now could save you from the discomfort of a broken air conditioner and the much higher cost of replacing your entire system later.

If your air conditioner is making any noises you don’t like, watery or otherwise, Welter Heating can help keep your AC working and your indoor temperatures comfortable. Schedule an air conditioner repair appointment today. 

Your home is supposed to be your oasis. But pollen, dander, dust, and other irritants in the air can quickly reduce the air quality of your residential paradise. While air filters can certainly help, most air filters are not fine enough to trap irritants like mold spores and dust that cause allergy flare ups and reduce air quality. Homeowners need to go one step further to improve their home’s air quality by investing in an air purification system.

However, you should know that not all air purifiers are created equal. There are several different types of air purifiers; some have the ability to filter out larger particles like dander, hair, and dirt, while others trap microscopic particles like germs, viruses, odors, and mold.

Below, we describe what these air cleaning devices are and break down the several types of air purifiers so you can choose the best one for your home.

What are Air Purifiers?

Air purifiers work to remove indoor air pollutants from the air. They can be manufactured as small, stand-alone units or larger furnace air purifiers that can be attached to your HVAC. Air purifiers remove several types of particles, including dust, volatile organic compounds, dander, mold spores, smoke, dust mites, and pollen from the air using high heat, UV light, exhaust systems, ionic technology, or HEPA filters.

The 7 Types of Air Purifiers: Which One is Perfect for Your Home?

1. Ultraviolet Air Purifiers

Ultraviolet (UV) air purifiers use ultraviolet light to remove potentially harmful viruses, bacteria, and pathogens from your home. The inspiration for UV air purifiers came from hospitals that use special ultraviolet light bulbs to disinfect patient rooms and laboratories. Residential UV air purifiers are small, compact machines that filter the air in your home through a chamber filled with UV light. The UV light destroys pathogens by breaking molecular bonds in their DNA. Ultraviolet air purifiers can cost as little as $50 or as much as $800 depending on the model you purchase.

When to Get a UV Air Purifier

If you want to kill mold, germs, and other bacteria to prevent illness, UV air purifiers kill 99.9% of mold spores that pass through your furnace or air conditioner. Just keep in mind that because UV air purifiers use special light bulbs to reduce harmful particles from the air, the bulbs will need to be replaced every year or so, depending on the model and how often you run the purifier.

2. HEPA Air Purifiers

HEPA air purifiers use an advanced air filter to remove 99.7% of all particles larger than 0.2 microns from the air in your home. That means that HEPA air purifiers are highly effective at removing particles like pollen, dander, mold, and dust from the air. HEPA air purifiers cost between $30 and $300 depending on the model that you buy.

When to Get a HEPA Air Purifier

HEPA air filters are a consumer favorite because they’re effective at removing the vast majority of irritating particles and pollutants from the air. However, HEPA air filters must be replaced after every month of use. In addition, HEPA air filters cannot trap microorganisms smaller than 0.2 microns like germs, viruses, and bacteria.

3. Activated Carbon Air Purifiers

Activated carbon air purifiers are effective at removing smoke, odors, fumes, and gasses from the air inside your home. People who are sensitive to odors like smoke or natural gas should consider an activated carbon air purifier. Most activated carbon air purifiers include HEPA filters that remove particles from the air as well. Activated carbon air purifiers are priced at $100 and higher.

When to Get an Activated Carbon Air Purifier

If you want to remove odors and smells from your home, an activated carbon air purifier is the only type of air purifier that is designed to eliminate odors, chemicals, fumes, smokes, and gasses from the air. However, this means they are less effective at removing pollen, dander, dust, or mold from the air unless the model includes a HEPA air filter.

4. Ionic Air Purifiers

Ionic air purifiers are extremely quiet and operate without a motor. They emit negative ions into the air, which bond with positively charged, airborne particles like dust, making these particles so heavy that they eventually fall out of the air. Some ionic air purifiers have electrostatic precipitators that trap positively charged particles to a metal plate inside the air purifier. The price of ionic air purifiers range from $30 to $300 depending on the model and size of the air purifier.

While most ionic air purifiers are large, separate devices that need to be placed throughout your home, there is one type of ionic air purifier that is making waves in the world of air treatment. The new iWave-R from Nu-Calgon is one of the best air purifiers you can buy as it is the world’s first self-cleaning air purifier using ionic technology. Plus, the iWave-R air purifier attaches directly onto your HVAC system to ensure that your whole air supply stays clean, not just the room that you place it in. With the iWave-R in your home, you can enjoy all of the benefits of ionic purification without the drawbacks.  

When to Get an Ionic Air Purifier

Ionic air purifiers can remove just about anything other than odors from the air. That includes dust, dander, allergens, smoke, viruses, bacteria, and fumes. Some models do need to be cleaned regularly in order to maintain functionality and fully remove air pollutants, but the new iWave-R is able to clean itself.

5. Electronic Air Cleaners

An electronic air cleaner is a whole-home solution that works with your furnace or air conditioner to charge and trap airborne particles using static electricity.

Electronic air cleaners can remove up to 99.98% of allergens from the air in your home using HEPA filters and positively charged ions. They purify the air in your entire home by using a HEPA filter in conjunction with your heating and cooling systems. In essence, an electronic air cleaner ensures that the air that passes through your HVAC systems also pass through a HEPA filter that can trap particles as small as .3 microns. Any remaining impurities are then zapped by positively charged ions generated by the electronic air cleaner.

When to Get an Electronic Air Cleaner

If you want to remove dust, dander, allergens, smoke, viruses, bacteria, or fumes from your home, an electronic air cleaners does a great job. They do need to be professionally installed, but with the ability to remove 99.98% of allergens from the air, they’re one of the most effective air purifiers you can buy.

In addition to a professional installation, it’s also worth mentioning that the cleaner’s filters must be replaced and the ionizing wires or collector cells must be cleaned after every month of use. Cleaning can be a simple event, however, as the cells can be washed in the dishwasher, in a tub, or with a garden hose.

6. Central Air Cleaners

Central air cleaners purify the air in your entire home by connecting to your central heating and cooling systems. Central air cleaners work silently in the ductwork of your home to remove up to 99% of the most and pollen in your home, 98% of the dust in your home and 94% of the viruses in your home. Central air cleaners can greatly reduce the impact of allergies, asthma and viruses on your health. They also help extend the life of your heater and A/C by filtering out particles that might otherwise interfere with the equipment.

When to Get a Central Air Cleaner

While central air cleaners need to be professionally installed, this type of air cleaner is very efficient, with upper-tier models having a 98% efficiency in removing particles that are less than one micron in size. From smoke to pet dander, a central air cleaner will take care of it all.

7. Air-To-Air Exchangers

Air-to-air exchangers actually ventilate your home by removing old, stale air and bringing in healthy, fresh air. Air-to-air exchangers can also help you regulate the temperature and humidity of your home using “energy recovery ventilators.” For instance, in the winter an air-to-air exchanger will trap the heat from the air before ventilating it out of your home. This heat will be used to warm and humidify clean air entering your home in order to maintain an even temperature. In the summer, an air-to-air exchanger cools and dehumidifies clean air from outside before channeling it into your home.

When to Get an Air-to-Air Exchanger

If your home suffers from stale air or poor circulation, an air-to-air exchanger will bring the fresh air in from the outdoors. This helps regulate your home’s climate and reduces the amount of mold in the air.

Air Purifier Sizing Guide

 Before investing in an air purifier, measuring your room’s square footage is essential for optimal performance. To calculate the appropriate size, multiply the room’s length by width, then choose a purifier rated for at least that square footage. For rooms with high ceilings (over 8 feet), multiply your square footage by 1.5 to ensure adequate coverage.

Smart Features to Look For 

Today’s advanced air purifiers offer convenient features that take the guesswork out of air quality management. Smart sensors can automatically detect pollutants and adjust fan speeds accordingly. WiFi connectivity allows you to monitor air quality and control settings through your smartphone. Some models even integrate with smart home systems and provide detailed air quality reports, helping you track improvements in your indoor air over time.

Pure and Simple

If you want to improve your home’s air quality, air purifiers and air cleaners are the way to go. More sophisticated than simple air filters, these devices work hard to eliminate potential pollutants and irritants from your home’s atmosphere. As a result, you can expect your allergy and asthma symptoms to improve. You can also breathe a little easier knowing that harmful particles won’t be waiting for you at home.

Are you ready to invest in a cleaner and healthier home? Contact us for more information and advice about which type of air purifier is best for your home and HVAC system.

Have more questions you want answered? Leave us a comment below or reach out over Facebook or Twitter!

When you’re managing a household, every cent counts. Control of your energy costs is a great way to manage your home budget while keeping your family cool. Still, it can be challenging to figure out what the impact of even one-degree change could have on your bottom line. 

That’s why we’ve done the math for you to figure out how much 1 degree of AC really costs, plus some savvy tips on how to keep your house crips without relying on your air conditioner.

So, How Much Does 1 Degree of AC Really Cost? 

During hot and humid summer months, you might be tempted to dial your thermostat down another degree or two for extra comfort. But have you considered what that small adjustment costs you?

The Real Cost of AC: $2.85 Per Degree

According to energy experts, each degree you lower your thermostat increases your cooling costs by approximately 3%. Based on average summer cooling costs of $95 per household in Minnesota, that single degree adjustment adds about $2.85 to your energy bill over the course of a summer.

What This Means For Your Home

For a typical home:

• Lowering from 78°F to 74°F: Approximately $11.40 extra per summer
• Setting your thermostat just 2 degrees higher: Save nearly $6 per summer

Smart Ways to Cool Your Home & Save on Energy Bills

AC costs can rise over time, especially when the summer heat gets brutal. It can be tempting to keep ticking down the temperature on your air conditioner. To help you save money—and wear on your AC unit—here are a few additional ways to cool your home without relying so much on your AC.

Throw Down Some Shade: Block the Sun to Save on Cooling Costs

No, we aren’t talking about getting sassy with your friends and family! In this case, we literally mean pulling your blinds down. This blocks the heat of the sun from coming into your home, keeping rooms cooler by avoiding an oven-like effect from all that sunshine. 

Avoid Hot Appliances to Help Lower Your Energy Bill

Try to avoid using appliances in the home that cause a lot of heat. For example, using your oven in the summertime can cause an already warm house to go into the hot zone. The same goes for bathroom appliances like hair dryers. When you can, skip using these heat makers to keep your home cool.

Nature’s Air Conditioning: Smart Landscaping

Investing in foliage outside your home can help you control the temperature inside your home. Planting trees around your house, especially near windows, creates a natural sunblock, providing shade from the sun’s rays. And we all know things are always cooler in the shade!

Fan Direction Matters When Maximizing Your Home Cooling

If your house is in the process of cooling or is already where you want it, the last thing you want to do is let any of that cool air out. Keep your doors—and windows, for that matter—closed as much as possible. Even if only cracked open, it will let valuable cold air seep out of your house and make it much harder to keep the temperature down. And we don’t just mean doors to the outside: it’s much easier to cool a single room than it is to cool a whole house, so keeping doors between rooms closed can also keep things cooler longer. 

Check Your Fans

You may not know this, but the direction your fan turns matters! In the summer, you want your fan to turn counterclockwise so it creates a downdraft. This will provide a breeze effect in the room that cools you naturally. If you run it clockwise, it will create an updraft, circulating the air but not creating a cooling breeze.

The Coolest Professionals

If you’ve tried all of the above and still need more guidance, check out our tips on how to reduce your air conditioning costs. 

And when you just have to have the power of AC, make sure you have an AC that works properly. A well-tuned, efficient AC is also a key part of saving money on air conditioning costs. To ensure everything is in order, schedule AC maintenance with one of our experts today. Call us to make an appointment! 

Spring has arrived, and so have warmer temperatures. As the weather warms up, you’ve already started to hang your coats back in closets, throw boots into baskets, and dump scarves back in storage. You no longer need layers to keep you warm—and your furnace no longer needs to keep the heat pumping throughout your home.

One important task that many homeowners overlook is properly shutting down their gas furnace for the off-season. Not only can this simple process save you money on energy bills, but it also helps maintain your heating system’s efficiency and longevity.
Whether you’re a new homeowner or simply looking for the correct procedure, this guide will walk you through the safe and proper steps to turn off your gas furnace until you need it again.

Turning Off Your Gas Furnace

Step 1: Switch the mode on your thermostat.

First things first: visit your thermostat. When it’s warm enough to open the windows, or maybe even turn on the A/C, you’ll want to switch the mode on your thermostat from “heat” to “off,” or from “heat” to “cool.”

This simple adjustment stops your furnace from cycling on when temperatures drop slightly during spring and autumn nights. If you have a programmable thermostat, now is also a good time to adjust your temperature settings for the warmer months or disable any heating programs you had set for winter.

Step 2: Replace the furnace filter.

Over time, your furnace filter can get clogged with dirt, dust, mold spores, pet dander, bacteria … you name it. The build-up can compromise your filter’s ability to keep the air circulating throughout your home clean; decreasing your furnace efficiency and increasing energy costs.

We recommend replacing your furnace filter about every one to three months, depending on usage, to keep your system working as it should. By replacing your furnace filter at the end of winter or beginning of spring, your furnace is set and ready to go for fall, when cooler temps start up again.

Step 3: Check the pilot light.

A pilot light is a small gas flame that serves as an ignition source for your furnace. Pilot lights should be kept lit in the offseason, unless you know how to relight the pilot light on your own. Turning the pilot light off during the warm spring and summer months can save on gas and money. To turn off the pilot light, find the valve on the gas line running directly to your furnace. Turn it to the “off” position—a.k.a. pointing away and running perpendicular to the gas line.

Make sure you reposition the gas valve back to “on” when you turn your furnace back on in the fall. Otherwise, the pilot light will be impossible to get going again.

*Bonus* In case of an emergency…

Smell rotten eggs? This could be a sign of a gas leak. If you suspect a leak, turn off the gas immediately. Open your windows, exit your home, and seek safety. Then, call your utility company, so they can take care of the issue and you can get back to enjoying your home.

Enjoy the Season!

Spring and summer don’t last long—especially if you live in Minnesota. Enjoy the seasons to their fullest by spending time outdoors, and letting fresh air into your home. Follow these steps to turn off your gas furnace, save energy, and even save a few extra dollars this season.

Learn more ways to get your home ready for spring with our spring cleaning checklist.

Heat pumps are becoming a popular option for heating and cooling in Minnesota. But are they effective as a year-round heating and cooling source? More importantly, can they stand up to our sub-zero winters? Let’s take a look at these questions so you can make sure your home stays toasty warm all winter. 

What is a heat pump?

Before we discuss whether a heat pump can be used in Minnesota, we should define which type of heat pump we are talking about. There are two main types of heat pumps.

Air source heat pump 

An air source heat pump is a heating and cooling system that moves warm air out of your home when the weather is hot and moves warm air into your home when the weather is cold.

An air source heat pump works like a heat shuttle, moving warmth from the outdoors into your home instead of creating heat from scratch. It uses a refrigerant that absorbs heat from outside air, then gets compressed to become hotter before releasing that warmth inside your house. This approach lets heat pumps deliver more heating power than the electricity they use.

When summer rolls around, the heat pump simply works in reverse, pulling heat from inside your home and dumping it outside to keep you cool. It’s like having your heating and air conditioning in one system that works year-round. The catch is that when outside temperatures get super cold, like in Minnesota, heat pumps have to work harder to find that outdoor warmth to bring inside.

When most people are talking about heat pumps, air source heat pumps are the type they are referring to, and they will be the heat pump we discuss in this post.

Geothermal heat pump 

The other type of heat pump is a geothermal heat pump. Geothermal heat pumps, also known as ground source heat pumps, are cheap to operate but are at least an order of magnitude more expensive than air source heat pumps. 

You read that correctly: geothermal heat pumps can cost as much as $30,000 to $45,000 for equipment and installation for higher end models. That high installation cost can make offsetting your investment with lower utility bills a lifetime project. 

Because of their high price tag, geothermal heat pumps are not as common in Minnesota. However, they can still be found in homes throughout the Twin Cities because they are able to effectively warm a home even on our coldest winter days and are one of the most eco-friendly options currently available. 

Can I use a heat pump in Minnesota? 

The short answer to the question of whether air source heat pumps can be used in Minnesota is: technically, yes you can. But that comes with a big caveat: nearly every type of air source heat pump is rated to work down to about 30 degrees. Some newer models may be rated to work down to 0 degrees. 

But, if you’ve spent any time in Minnesota, you know that we can go weeks or even a month or longer with temperatures that fall below 0—or never get above 0! On those days you will need an auxiliary heat source, which is most commonly a heat strip or electric baseboards, neither of which are as efficient as a heat pump or a gas furnace. 

So, yes, an air source heat pump is an option for heating your home in the spring and fall and cooling your home in the summer. 

The bottom line: we do not recommend using an air source heat pump as your primary heating source for winters in Minnesota. 

When does it make sense to use a heat pump in Minnesota?

While we strongly recommend using a gas furnace to heat your home whenever possible, sometimes a gas furnace is not an option. But, for every rule there is an exception. An air source heat pump may be the best choice for these types of homes:

• A house that does not have a gas line connection
• A house that is powered solely by solar panels
• A house where the gas source is a propane tank

Gas furnaces are the best source of heat in Minnesota

For most homes in Minnesota, we highly recommend a gas furnace as your primary source of heat. Gas furnaces deliver exceptional efficiency ratings of 96%-97%, meaning nearly all the energy they consume gets converted to heat for your home. They’re more affordable to operate during our harsh winters and perform reliably even when temperatures plummet well below zero. Unlike heat pumps that struggle in extreme cold, gas furnaces maintain their heating capacity regardless of outdoor conditions, ensuring your family stays comfortable during the coldest Minnesota nights.

Newer furnace models with two-stage motors take efficiency even further by adjusting their output based on your heating needs. On milder days, these smart systems can operate at lower capacity, using less gas and more electricity to optimize energy consumption and reduce utility bills.

Additionally, gas furnaces typically have longer lifespans than air source heat pumps, which face double the operational hours by running year-round for both heating and cooling. This extended usage means heat pumps generally require replacement twice as often as furnaces, adding to their lifetime cost despite their dual functionality.

Welter installs and services heat pumps

If you have decided an air source heat pump is right for your home, we can help you out! Our expert technicians can install a new Trane XLi or Trane XB air source heat pump to heat and cool your home. 

Keeping your furnace running is a must around here, but the pursuit of warmth can sometimes inadvertently lead to an imbalance in indoor humidity, affecting both our health and the condition of our living spaces. 

One of the most effective tools in combating the challenges of dry indoor air is a furnace humidifier. These devices can help keep your home comfortable all winter without the need for a bulky humidifier in each room. Let’s take a look at how these must-have bits of HVAC equipment work and why they’re a good idea for getting you comfortably through the winter.

What is a Furnace Humidifier?

A furnace humidifier, also known as a whole home humidifier, is a specialized device that regulates and maintains optimal humidity levels throughout your house. Unlike standalone humidifiers that can only add moisture to a single room, a furnace humidifier has a large coverage area because it is integrated into your HVAC system. It works by evenly distributing moisture into the air that is circulated throughout your home, ensuring consistent humidity levels in every room.

Types of Furnace Humidifiers 

Bypass humidifiers

These furnace humidifiers work by diverting a portion of warm air from the furnace’s return duct, passing it through a water-soaked pad, and then reintroducing the humidified air back into the supply duct. Bypass humidifiers are relatively simple, cost-effective, and suitable for many HVAC systems.

Fan-powered humidifiers

These units have an integrated fan that blows air over a water panel or evaporator pad. The moisture evaporates, and the humidified air is then distributed throughout the home. Fan-powered humidifiers are effective in homes where the airflow through the heating system is relatively low.

Steam humidifiers

These humidifiers generate steam by heating water, and then the steam is introduced into the ductwork. Steam humidifiers provide precise control over humidity levels and are particularly effective in larger homes or in situations where precise humidity control is essential.

Reservoir humidifiers

Also known as drum-type humidifiers, these have a rotating drum that is partially submerged in water. As the drum rotates, a portion of it is exposed to warm air from the furnace, causing the water to evaporate and humidify the air. Drum humidifiers are less common today due to concerns about maintenance and mold growth.

Controlling Humidity Levels

Furnace humidifiers come with built-in controls that allow you to monitor and adjust humidity levels according to your preferences. Many modern furnace humidifiers are equipped with smart technology, enabling you to manage humidity remotely through your smartphone or other devices. It’s important to be thoughtful about your humidity levels, as excessive humidity can lead to issues like mold growth, while too little humidity can result in dry skin and many other problems.

Benefits of a Whole House Furnace Humidifier 

Cold winter air means the air in your home will be dry no matter how well your furnace works. Maintaining the right level of humidity in your home is important for many reasons, from keeping your furniture looking good to maintaining good air quality and protecting your health. 

Here are some of the biggest benefits of installing a furnace humidifier: 

Preservation of wood floors and furniture

The charm of wood as a material for flooring and furniture lies in its natural beauty. But wood is also a material that responds to fluctuations in humidity, and dry air can leach moisture from wood, causing it to lose its luster and vibrancy. Wood floors and furniture are susceptible to warping and cracks when exposed to prolonged dry conditions. A furnace humidifier keeps the moisture levels in your home’s air perfectly balanced, keeping your wood floor and furnishings looking their best. 

Improved indoor air quality

Proper humidity levels contribute significantly to indoor air quality. Dry air can lead to respiratory discomfort, skin irritation, and an increased susceptibility to allergies and infections. Balanced humidity, on the other hand, can actually provide relief from allergies and asthma symptoms. By using a furnace humidifier, you can mitigate these issues and create a healthier indoor environment for you and your family. 

Energy efficiency

Using a whole home humidifier can enhance the energy efficiency of your heating system. By adding moisture to the air throughout your home, the perceived warmth within your living spaces increases. As a result, you can lower your thermostat without sacrificing comfort. This has the effect of decreasing the workload of your heating equipment, which can save you money long term by extending the operational lifespan of your heating system. 

Enhanced home comfort

Whether it’s cozying up with a book, spending quality time with loved ones, or simply relishing your personal haven, a well-humidified environment plays an essential role in creating a more comfortable living space. Dry air can cause static electricity, chapped lips, and dry skin. At night, overly dry air can lead to snoring and exacerbate sleep apnea symptoms. Maintaining a comfortable humidity level can prevent all these issues, keeping your skin healthy, your sleep restful, and promoting your overall physical well-being. 

Installation and Maintenance

Setting up a whole home humidifier requires professional installation, typically performed by HVAC experts. They will integrate the humidifier with your existing HVAC system to ensure everything is set up properly. 

Regular maintenance is also necessary to keep the humidifier functioning effectively year after year. This includes changing filters, cleaning components, and monitoring humidity levels to ensure they remain within the desired range. The specific steps to maintain a furnace humidifier will vary depending on what type you have, so read the unit’s instruction manual carefully and consult with your HVAC professional to make sure you understand what is required.

Considerations Before Buying

Before investing in a furnace humidifier, assess your home’s specific needs. Factors such as the climate in your region, the size of your living space, and existing HVAC infrastructure should all be considered. Consulting with HVAC professionals can help you determine the most suitable humidifier for your home.

If you need help deciding whether a furnace humidifier is right for you, or if you’re ready to have one installed, contact us and we can help you make the best choice for your home.  

Most people who need a new furnace are probably intimidated by the prospect. It’s understandable: furnaces are a major investment, and it’s hard to know how to get started. 

Given the intimidation factor, most homeowners will hire an HVAC company to size their home and do all of the furnace selection and installation for them. While that’s certainly what we would recommend you do as well, it’s also a good idea to go through the sizing process on your own to make sure your results align with the professionals. 

Fortunately, this process isn’t nearly as complicated as it might seem

As professional furnace installers with over 100 years in business, we’ve helped thousands of homeowners like yourself find the right size furnace. Below, you’ll find the easy four-step guide we use to get the job done so you can accurately size up your home yourself.

Step #1: Determine the BTUs your furnace must output

Generally speaking, the more heat your furnace needs to produce, the larger it needs to be. The size of a furnace is typically measured in BTUs (British Thermal Unit, a unit of heat) per square foot. One BTU is the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of a pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit.

Getting the BTUs your furnace needs to put out is one of the most important parts of furnace sizing. If you buy a furnace that produces too few BTUs, your system won’t be able to keep up. It will run constantly, driving up your heating bill, while struggling to even bring your home up to the correct temperature. If you buy a furnace that produces too many BTUs, on the other hand, it will heat your space too quickly, cycle on and off too quickly, and wear out faster than it should.

The number of BTUs your furnace should put out depends on several factors, including the age of your home and the status of your insulation. The number one determinant is the climate you live in. 

The colder your winters, the more heat output you’ll need. If you live in Texas, for example, you may only need to turn your furnace on occasionally throughout the winter months. Accurately accounting for your regional climate in your BTU calculation is the first step to sizing your furnace correctly.

Use the table and map below to determine how many BTUs are necessary for your climate zone in the winter. Then, keep it handy for the calculations we’ll need to do in Step 3.

Image credit: University of Hawaii Hilo

Step #2: Estimate Your Home’s Square Footage

In addition to weather and climate, the size of your home also has a direct impact on the size furnace you’ll need. The more space you need to heat, the more heat output you’ll need to heat the entire area effectively.

For some homeowners, this is a relatively simple step that just requires you to look up your home’s square footage from the original appraisal, listing, or lease. However, if you don’t know your home’s square footage and can’t find it listed anywhere, you’ll need to break out the tape measure to get each room’s length and width. Avoid measuring rooms that don’t have a duct (like a garage), because they’re not connected to your home’s heating system and you don’t want it to inflate your measurement.

To measure the square footage of your rooms, measure the length and width of the room in feet using your tape measure. Then, multiply the length by the width. 

Square footage = Length of room X width.

If a room in your home is an unusual shape, try dividing it into several rectangular-shaped sectors and then add them together.

After you’ve calculated the square feet of each of the room’s in your home, add all of them together to determine the total square footage of your home.  To give you an idea of how you might make the assessment on your own, take a look at our sample calculations below.

Family Room:    24 ft. X 15 ft. = 360 square feet

Dining Room:    10 ft. X 15 ft.= 150 square feet

Kitchen:    25 ft. X 12 ft.= 300 square feet

Bedroom 1:     20 ft. X 15 ft.= 300 square feet

Bedroom 2:    20 ft. X 13 ft. = 260 square feet

Bathroom 1:   10 ft. X 16 ft. = 160 square feet

Bathroom 2:   12 ft. X 8 ft. = 96 square feet

Basement:     25 ft. X 22 ft. = 550 square feet

Laundry Room:    7 ft. X 10 ft. = 70 square feet

Total Square Footage:  2,246 square feet

Step #3: Calculate the Necessary BTU Output

The next step involves a bit more math, but if you’ve followed the above steps to a T, it’s a lot easier.

Take your home’s square footage and multiply it against the BTUs your climate requires. We included an example for you below:

2,000 square feet X 40 BTUs = 80,000 BTU output required

Step #4: Be Sure to Check Furnace Efficiency

Thanks to the equation, we know we need 80,000 BTUs of heat. But before we buy an 80,000 BTU furnace, there’s furnace efficiency to consider as well. For instance, a furnace with 80,000 BTU input and an 85% efficiency rating will only produce 68,000 BTUs. We need something stronger. A 100,000 BTU furnace with an 80% efficiency rating or higher will produce the 80,000 BTUs necessary and then some.

A furnace’s efficiency rating is called its AFUE, or Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency. This number represents how efficiently the furnace converts its fuel source into BTUs of heat. For example, a gas-burning furnace converts (on average) 100 units of natural gas into 80 BTUs of heat.

You can find a furnace’s AFUE rating either on its cabinet or in its user manual. If you’re interested in buying a very high-efficiency furnace, you could also see if it has earned the official ENERGY STAR® label from the U.S. Department of Energy. This means it has achieved an AFUE of at least 90 percent.

Keep in mind that a furnace’s AFUE rating may not remain accurate, especially as it gets older. To keep your furnace as efficient as it should be, have it regularly maintained by a professional every year. You can even ask your technician to doublecheck your AFUE rating during installation or maintenance.   

A Furnace That’s “Just Right”

When it comes to your home’s heating, the last thing you want to do is take Goldilocks’ approach to finding a solution. Playing around with the BTU output of your home’s furnace can result in major energy costs, not to mention a majorly cold winter. Instead, use the three steps above to find the furnace that’s “just right” for your home.

Still not sure which furnace you should buy? Learn more about the different types of furnaces.

Have you noticed how the atmosphere in your house changes in the winter months? Maybe you find dry and itchy spots on your skin, or cracks in your wooden floors or furniture. You might even wake up with a sore throat or bloody nose in the morning.

All of these symptoms—both to your body and your stuff—are a result of dry indoor air. The cold air outside, with moisture locked in a frozen state, doesn’t help. Inside, your HVAC is toasting the air before it circulates, keeping it warm but overly dry.

Low humidity can even make air feel colder than it actually is, causing you to overcompensate with the thermostat and run up your heating bill.

Let’s look at some simple and some more involved methods for adding a little humidity back into your house this winter.

How to Keep Humidity in Your House for the Winter

Start with a few of these simple fixes. If you’re still feeling too dry, it might be time to consider a humidifier. 

Simple fixes

These quick moisture-infusions don’t require much time, money or specialized equipment. Start with:

Houseplants

Houseplants are nature’s humidifiers. They release moisture into the air through a process called transpiration, where water is absorbed through the roots and evaporated from the leaves.Some plants are better at moisturizing the air than others. Consider adding some of these to your space:

• Spider Plants: Hardy and easy to care for, they are great for beginners.
• Ferns: Boston and maidenhair ferns are particularly effective.
• Peace Lilies: Known for their beautiful blooms and moisture-releasing capabilities.
• Areca Palms: Large and tropical, perfect for adding a lush feel to your home.

Water Near Heat Sources
Place bowls or trays of water near heating vents. As the water evaporates, it will naturally lend moisture to the air and help balance humidity. Just don’t put them in walkways or near electrical outlets! 

Drying Clothes Indoors
Instead of using a dryer, hang clothes on a drying rack inside your home. You might miss out on that lovely warm and toasty feeling of dryer-fresh clothes, but it’s worth the sacrifice for a more humid environment. Plus, you’ll save energy by not running the dryer for every load.

Boiling Water on the Stove
A quick way to add a modicum of moisture is to boil a pot of water on the stove. You could toss in some cinnamon sticks and citrus peels, too, for a fresh and cozy-smelling home. 

Or if you’re feeling ready to carb load and hibernate, add pasta instead.

Misting with Distilled Water
Use a spray bottle filled with distilled water to mist the air as you walk through your house. While this is a temporary and minor fix, it’s quick and easy to do. You can make a noticeable difference with some diligent misting.

Choosing the Right Humidifier

Sometimes you need more than a quick fix for dry indoor air. That’s where humidifiers come in. Choosing the right humidifier can be a sizable step towards maintaining comfort in your home. Here’s how to choose the right one.

Whole-Home vs. Mobile Humidifiers

The first big decision is whether you need multiple mobile units or a single whole-home humidifier. Here’s a breakdown of each option:

• Whole-Home Humidifiers. These humidifiers are integrated into your home’s heating and cooling system. They’re intended to provide consistent humidity levels throughout the entire house. Whole-home humidifiers are perfect for large homes or those looking for a set-and-forget solution. However, they are more costly than a mobile unit, and professional installation is required. 
• Mobile Humidifiers: Mobile units are easily moved from room to room so you can target specific areas that need more humidity. This flexibility makes them a popular choice for renters or those with smaller spaces. They come in a wide range of sizes, styles, and features to fit your room size and personal preferences. It’s important to consider, though, that mobile humidifiers require regular refilling and cleaning. They also will not cover as large an area as whole-home systems. And it’s worth noting that their noise levels and power consumption vary by model, so it’s important to choose one that fits your needs.

Considerations for Choosing a Humidifier

Selecting the right humidifier involves considering several factors:

• Room Size and Needs. Determine the square footage of the area you want to humidify and choose a humidifier that matches that size. Small units are ideal for bedrooms, while larger units or whole-home systems are better for bigger spaces.
• Energy Efficiency. Look for models that are energy-efficient and have features like auto shut-off to conserve power. This is especially important for whole-home systems that run continuously.
• Safety Features. Consider humidifiers with safety features such as automatic shut-off when the water level is low, cool-touch exteriors, and antimicrobial features to prevent mold and bacteria growth.

Keep Your Home Hydrated

Dry winter air wreaks havoc on your home, your stuff and your health. It’s important to keep things hydrated, whether you choose the quick fixes above or go all-in on a whole-home humidifier.If you have questions about whole-home humidifiers, or any HVAC-related issues, contact us today! We’re here to help.

Have you ever sat on your living room couch and watched dust motes dance in a beam of light? It’s a beautiful sight.

Until you think about all that dust settling on your knick-knacks, carpets and furniture… and even getting into your eyes, nose and lungs.

A small amount of dust in your home is inevitable, of course. As the saying goes, from dust we come and to dust we shall return (and in the meantime, we will have dust bunnies under our couches). But there are some easy steps you can take to improve the air quality in your home.

Here’s what you need to know about getting rid of dust in the air.

Where Does In-Home Dust Come From?

Before we can get to work cleaning up your air, it’s important to know where all that dust is coming from. There are a few major sources:

• Carpets and Rugs
  Carpets and rugs can trap dust, dander and pollen, especially in high-traffic areas. 
• Upholstered Furniture
  Your couches and chairs can trap dust and dander just as much as your carpet. 
• Bedding and Linens
  Infrequently washed sheets and pillows also create an environment for dust mites to thrive and allergens to flourish.
• Clutter and Stored Items
  Cluttered spaces can be major dust magnets. Dust settles on these items and can be easily disturbed, spreading into the air.
• Pets
  Pets shed fur and dander, and can also track in dust from outside. When Fido gets the zoomies, he can stir up dust in carpets or furniture and make it airborne. 
• Dirty HVAC Systems
  Heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) systems are designed to spread air throughout your home. If you have dusty vents and ducts, that air will be dirty, too. 

Naturally, we’re not suggesting you get rid of your carpets, rugs, furniture or pets (especially not the pets!). But there are steps you can take to keep things cleaner.

Practical Tips for Getting Rid of Dust in the Air

These tips range from simple DIY fixes to more cost-intensive but long-term solutions. Follow our suggestions to make your home’s air cleaner and healthier.

Regular Vacuuming and Dusting

Vacuuming and dusting are the two non-negotiable chores for keeping your air clean. Vacuum carpets, rugs, and upholstered furniture at least once a week, focusing on high-traffic areas and under furniture. Make sure your vacuum has a HEPA filter, which is designed to trap small particles that standard vacuums may miss.

Instead of traditional dusting, which often just moves dust around, use microfiber cloths to trap and remove it. It’s a good idea to start close to the ceiling—high shelves and pictures—and work down, so you don’t resettle dust on already-cleaned surfaces. 

DIY and Professional Duct Cleaning
While professional duct cleaning services can provide thorough cleaning, you can also do a basic cleaning yourself. Remove vent covers and use a vacuum to clean visible dust. 

For a deeper clean, it’s worth hiring a professional service. Regular maintenance of ducts can clean up your air and improve your HVAC’s efficiency.

Replacing Air Filters

Air filters in your HVAC system capture dust and other particles, stopping them from circulating through your home. It’s important to pick the right filter for your home. As with vacuuming, a HEPA filter will capture the smallest particles that might get through other filter types. 

It’s important to change your filter regularly. Depending on the type of filter and how often your HVAC runs, you should change it every 1-3 months. 

Consider an Air Purifier

Air purifiers can effectively remove dust and allergens from the air. Depending on the model, it can use one or more of many technologies to keep your air clean. Some use HEPA filters, activated carbon, and/or UV light. All are designed to capture particles, filter air and improve air quality. 

You can place air purifiers in areas where dust tends to accumulate, such as living rooms, bedrooms, or home offices. The most important tip: Make sure you keep the purifier’s filters clean, according to the instructions you received with the unit. 

With a little bit of elbow grease and some professional assistance, you can dramatically reduce the amount of dust in your home’s air. Consistent cleaning, maintenance, and the right equipment are key to keeping your indoor air fresh and dust-free.

Need duct cleaning, maintenance or other HVAC services? We’re here to help. Contact us today!

A garage is one of your home’s truly multi-functional spaces. It can be a workshop, a laundry room, a home gym, a dance studio, a storage unit… or you could even do something bizarre like park a car in there.

However, as useful as garages can be, they’re not the most controlled environment in your home. Frequently garages aren’t connected to the main HVAC system, which means they’re subject to temperature fluctuations, stale air and excess humidity. 

If you smell that tell-tale, nostril-tickling odor of mold or mildew in your garage, it’s time to take decisive action.

Here’s a quick guide to garage dehumidification, including easy fixes and some more substantial long-term solutions.

A Quick Guide to Garage Dehumidification

Before we work on making your garage a safer place for your stuff (or your car), let’s start with the fundamental question:

Why do garages get humid in the first place?

There are a few key factors that contribute to all that extra moisture. If you live in a humid climate, there’s already water in the air. When warm, wet air enters a cooler space, like your garage, condensation can form. That leads to a dark, warm, damp environment where mold and mildew can thrive.

The design of your garage can be a factor, too. Garages are frequently under-insulated (or not insulated at all). Inadequate ventilation and gaps where drafts can get in are also contributors. Even your garage floor, if unsealed, can absorb moisture from the ground and let it seep into the garage space.

Even the way we use a garage can worsen humidity. Storing items like canoes, kayaks and tents, parking cars after a rainstorm, and running laundry all help add moisture to the air.

How to dehumidify your garage

Here’s a quick to-do list that will help you dry out your garage:

• Find the problem areas. Look for signs like water stains, mold, mildew, condensation and standing water. Find these and you can target your dehumidification efforts.

• Get the air moving. Pick a sunny, warm day to open the garage door and any other doors and windows in the space.

• Treat mold and mildew. Use bleach-based cleaning spray on these stains. If you see black mold, however, consult a professional for remediation.

• Run a dehumidifier. You can rent an industrial dehumidifier from a hardware store, or use a consumer-grade one if you already have one.

• Use chemical absorbents to further reduce moisture. You know the silica packets that say DO NOT EAT? Those help keep humidity out of your new shoes/new phone/new bag of jerky. You can buy scaled-up versions of these desiccants for your garage.

• Seal cracks and leaks. Weatherproofing will help reduce humidity and regulate the garage’s internal temperature.

Long-term solutions for a climate-controlled garage

The steps above will help get your garage’s humidity down to a reasonable level, and will help mitigate any mold or mildew that already exists. These next few options are more involved, but will help make your garage’s climate more stable.

Insulation and Weatherproofing

Proper insulation and weather-proofing are fundamental for preventing humidity in your garage. 

Insulation such as foam boards or fiberglass create a barrier that prevents warm, moist air from entering and cool air from escaping. This helps control humidity and improves energy efficiency.

Sealing gaps around windows, doors, and other openings is also a good time investment. Use weatherstripping and caulking to block any potential entry points for moisture. Installing door sweeps on the big door can also help prevent water and humid air from seeping in.

Advanced Climate Control Solutions

Apply waterproof coatings or sealant to your garage floor to prevent moisture absorption through the concrete slab. Epoxy coatings, for example, create a durable, water-resistant surface.

If you plan to use your garage as a functional room—a gym, workshop, band rehearsal space—it’s worth investing in a permanent solution. 

Many garages aren’t on the primary HVAC system for the home. Tying in your garage to your HVAC, or adding a mini-split air conditioner, can make your space drier and more liveable. 

Regular maintenance practices

Once your climate is under control, it’s important to regularly inspect the space for signs of moisture, mold or mildew. Check insulation, weatherproofing seals, and climate control systems to ensure they are in good condition.

The most challenging but crucial step: Keep your garage clean and well-organized. Clutter can trap moisture and obstruct airflow. 

With a combination of quick mitigation, permanent climate control, and regular maintenance, you can have a clean, dry, safe and functional garage year-round. 

Have more questions about HVAC for your garage? We’re here to help. Contact us today!